Champagne Report 2012

2012 Champagne Report
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introduction
Language of Champagne 4-23

Wineries
Regions & Vineyards
Cte des Bar A Look
Winemakers
Winemaking
Classic Grapes
Rare Grapes
10-14
Wine Styles
15-17
The Saigne Ros Process 18

Vintage
19
Corks & Aging
20
Reading the Label
21
Bottle Size
22
The Serving Debate
23
Grandes Marques
24-41
Bollinger
25
Charles Heidsieck
26
Deutz
27
G.H. Mumm
28
Heidsieck Monopole
29
Henriot
30-31
Krug
32
Laurent-Perrier
33
Louis Roederer
34
Nicolas Feuillatte
35
Diebolt-Vallois
59
Perrier Jouet
36
Dosnon+Lepage
60
Piper-Heidsieck
37
Fleury
61
Pol Roger
38
Gardet
62
Pommery
39
Gaston Chiquet
63
Salon
40
Henri Billiot
64
Taittinger
41
Henri Goutrobe
65
J. Lassalle
66
Jean Lallement
67
Jean Milan
68
L. Aubry
69
Larmandier-Bernier
70
Moutard
71
Mini-Marques
42-53
Alfred Gratien
43
Ayala
44
Billecart-Salmon
45
Canard Duchene
46
Delamotte
47
Devaux
48
Drappier
49
Gosset
50
Philipponnat
51
Thienot
52
Vranken
53
Growers
54-82
A. Margaine
55
Agrapart
56
Chartogne-Taillet
57
Coutier
58
2
Mouss
72-73
Paul Bara
74
Pehu-Simonet
75
Pierre Gimonnet
76
Pierre Pters
77
Ren Geoffroy
78
Saint-Chimant
79
Stephane Coquillette
80
Vazart-Coquart
81
Vilmart
82
About This Report
83
CHAMPAGNE: A CELEBRATION OF STYLE

by Chuck Hayward
Nothing stands as a symbol of celebration more than champagne. Fashionable
in Europe for centuries, it assumed its
place at the best tables in America
around the time of the Civil War. Even
back then, Champagne was a global
product and its popularity and perception as a luxury item led many countries
to make their own versions of sparkling
wine. But the real stuff has always
been the most sought-after interpretation.
Today, Champagne, both the region and
the drink, finds itself at a crossroads. It
has never been more in demand, as the
taste for the best wines has spread from
Europe and the Americas, to the Far
East and other countries. Top cuves
like Cristal and Dom Perignon sell
briskly and have established themselves
as "must have" wines. At the same time,
the global financial crisis has taken the
wind out of the sails at the bottom end
of the market. Reports of falling exports
and distress sales by many Champagne
houses continue to make the news.
The Champagne industry is becoming
increasingly dominated by multinational corporations that own a number of
brands in an effort to develop a portfolio of luxury products. Their financial
clout and marketing power have allowed these brands to populate shelves
and wine lists globally. At the other end
of the spectrum, grower champagnes
are carving out small niches in the market, popular among those who eschew
the corporate mentality of the big houses. These come from small producers
who offer personalized winemaking styles

and expressions of each property's unique
terroir. This has not gone unnoticed by the
larger Champagne producers, who are
working feverishly to improve their products, especially their top of the line tte-decuves. In terms of quality and diversity, its
a great time to be drinking the real deal.
The future of champagne, however, is

cloudy. Because many consumers only pop
the corks during holidays and celebrations,
the region needs to change how people
view Champagne as a whole rather than
wasting energy on protecting use of the
name. More clarity about how Champagne
is made, along with promotion of the region's rich history, would also help. Showing the diverse styles of Champagne and
its adaptability at the table would go a long
way toward increasing sales across the
board. And as they say, a rising tide lifts all
boats
Champagne is also suffering from growing
pains. The region, which has diligently
protected its reputation by limiting the

number of acres certified to grow grapes,
cannot expand production without authorizing higher yields from existing vineyards. Each year, the CIVC (Comit Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne) authorizes the yields that will be allowed for the
harvest, and in this way they can protect
the prices paid to growers by raising or
lowering figures as demand fluctuates. As
wine consumption increases globally, there
will be upward pressure on prices and an
inability to adjust to market demands by
increasing production without expanding
the boundaries of the Champagne AOC.
Hence, for the first time in decades, there
are now discussions about increasing the
number of acres in the Champagne region.
Crus from various villages are under consideration for this expansion and a few
marginal sites will lose the right to grow
grapes that can be designated for Champagne production. The debate is heated,
and there are concerns that the sites under
consideration are only marginally suited
for growing superior grapes. This expansion will not occur before 2020 at the earliest, if it happens at all. But one thing for
certaindemand for bona fide Champagne
will continue unabated until then and beyond.
In this report, we hope to provide information which will allow emerging fans to
know where to launch their exploration of
champagne, and enable current Champagne aficionados to delve a little deeper.
Cheers!
Chuck Hayward
THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE

A brief introduction
Champagne is one of the most difficult
wine producing regions to understand
and one might expect that, given that
there are 75,000 acres worked by 15,000
growers funneling their fruit into over
20,000 different labels. At the same time,
Champagne is one of the most identifiable wine styles, with the price of ubiquitous brands like Veuve Clicquot as well
known to consumers as the price of diesel is to truckers. Yet with so many wine
styles, a dizzying number of brands, as
well as myths and old notions that persist even today, learning about Champagne can confound the most determined wine enthusiast. The following
pages contain a bit of information that
will help you understand this bubbly
subject.
Wineries
Over the past 100 years, many Champagne houses have become household
names via combination of quality, quantity, and the power of advertising. Yet
there are still shelves and wine lists
filled with obscure estates and enigmatic labels. To help you get your bearings,
Ive placed the houses reviewed in this
report into three categories:
The Grandes Marques: Most of champagnes production comes from one of
these wineries. Typically with a history
dating back to champagnes heyday in
the mid-1800s, today these properties
produce a wide range of styles aimed at
different price points Most grandes
marques cuves are blends fashioned
from purchased grapes and wines since
they do not own enough land to supply
their entire production.
The Mini-Marques: This is a group of

properties and labels owned by larger
Champagne houses that are more
specialized in what they produce than
the grandes marques, yet their production is significantly less. They may
also own enough vineyards to take
care of a significant proportion of
their needs.
The Grower-Champagnes: This category actually comprises the most
number of labels although a very
small proportion of the total amount
of Champagne produced. Only 3% of
the total Champagne imported into
the United States comes from this
segment of the market. Growerchampagnes are gaining popularity,
as consumers search for site driven
wines made by passionate growerwinemakers. As a hedge, many growers will sell a portion of their fruit to
the bigger houses, retaining selected
parcels for their own production.

The dirt
Regions & Vineyards
Champagne's tradition of blending different lots to comprise a final cuve reflects the nature of a region where thousands of small plots of land, farmed by
many families, necessitates that most
wineries make a wine that is the sum of
these individual parts. This has allowed
the grandes marques to select and blend
grapes from differing vineyards to make
a consistent style of wine. Smaller properties must work with the fruit from
vineyards they own and in such cases
create wines that are more reflective of
their unique site as well as the conditions of the vintage. Understanding the
basic fruit sources available to the
Champagne producer, whether they be
big or small, goes a long way to understanding the style you are likely to encounter.
Valle de la Marne: Located east of the

Champagne towns of Epernay and
Reims, there are few grand cru sites to
be found here. A large chunk of pinot
meunier comes from here.
The Cte des Bar: The southernmost
growing region allowed to grow grapes
for champagne, the Cote's warmer temperatures permit the fruit here to attain
higher levels of sugar at harvest. Wines
from here will be weightier and more
textured than the more renowned vineyards up north.
Cte de Szanne: Another southern
area for growing grapes, chardonnay is
the dominant variety and achieves richer texture thanks to the warmer temperatures.
There are five grape growing regions

that provide Champagne wineries with
the bulk of the grapes allowed to be
grown:
Montagne de Reims: Predominantly
planted to pinot noir, the villages facing
north/north-east have more spine and
tension and tend to offer more aromatics. A fuller-bodied expression of pinot
noir comes from crus with south/
southeast exposures with many prized
for their richness of their flavors.
Ctes des Blancs: Full of white, chalky
soils, the vineyards from here are largely dedicated to the production of chardonnay with finer and leaner expressions coming from the northern crus. As
you progress south, the fruit gets riper
and the chardonnay gains more body.
Premier Cru & Grand Cru

Vineyards
You will also sometimes see "premier
cru" and "grand cru" designations on a
Champagne label. In the early 20th century, the vineyards of each village were
ranked on a scale of 80 to 100 in an attempt to normalize pricing for the many
growers selling their grapes to the large
firms. Since then, the grower-producer
consortium sets a price for a kilogram of
grapes each year and those villages with

vineyards ranked 100% receive the full
set price. Growers in lesser ranked villages stand to receive a percentage of
the price equivalent to their ranking.
There are currently 17 villages ranked at
100% and thusly designated as grand
cru villages. Premier cru sites are
ranked between 90-99% and any wine
so labeled cannot contain fruit from
vineyards ranked below 90%.
The grand cru and premier cru designations are not as much of a quality indicator as that which exists in Bordeaux or
Burgundy. Each village in Champagne
consists of many different crus with
different soils and exposures as a village
might have in Burgundy. However, all
the vineyards within each village receive the designated ranking and there
is no allowance made for plots of higher
or lesser quality within the village. Similarly, wines made from a grand cru village may vary widely in style and quality; there is no official tasting of wines
from these areas to ensure that each
grand cru Champagne measures up to a
pre-determined standard of quality.
By practice, the tete-de-cuves of the
grandes marques are almost always comprised of grapes from 100% ranked or
grand cru villages, although from time
to time, premier cru sites may be used.
In addition, given that premier crus
sites can range in ranking from 90 to
99%, few wines are designated as premier cru on the label.

Highlighting the Cte des Bar
With the word Champagne comes a fair
amount of confusion. The promotional
agency for French Champagne spends a
considerable amount of effort (and Euros) attempting to protect its brand and
image from infringement. They have
been somewhat successful, at least as far
as promoting Champagne as a region in
France.
As Champagne finds increasing favor
among wine enthusiasts, much has been
done to educate consumers and the
trade about the different areas that
make up the appellation. Regions like
the Cotes des Blancs and the Montagne
de Reims are beginning to gain recognition as significant producers of quality
champagne. In getting to know more
about the Champagne region, it might
be surprising to know that there are five
different subregions that make up the
appellation. One region you don't hear
much about is the Aube, but that's about
to change.
The Aube region, increasingly referred
to as the Cte des Bar by the wine trade,
is located 70 miles and an hour south of
Champagnes main growing regions.
Given the 17,000 acres devoted to grape
growing, about 20% of the appellation,
it is somewhat surprising that so little is
known about the Cte des Bar. A number of reasons might contribute to its
relative obscurity.
When the boundaries and regulations of

the appellation were originally formulated, growers based in Reims and
Epernay did not want to include vineyards of the Aube. But the locals rioted
until organizers eventually agreed to
include their vineyards in the new appellation. Then, as now, no villages
were assigned premier or grand cru
status. In fact, the Aube was referred to
a deuxieme zone and the area assumed a
marginalized status within Champagne.
Growers from the wineries near
Epernay and Reims rarely acknowledged using fruit from the Aube, which
created further distance between the
two regions.
The Cte des Bar has distinctly different
soil types compared to the regions clustered around the Marne Valley. While
they are all chalk based, the Aube vineyards are grown on a subset of soils
similar to those in Chablis, located only
40 miles away. More importantly, the
more southern location means warmer
temperatures which allows for riper
fruit.
Those differences, however, eventually

led to more attention for the region. As
prices for vineyards and grapes near
Epernay and Reims climbed to new
heights, larger producers increasingly
looked south. Though sometimes kept
secret, the Cte des Bar has proven to be
a more affordable component to blends
made by the larger firms. Able to provide ripe fruit consistently, the grapes
also provide more weight and textures
compared to the leaner structures from
northern sites.
Increasingly, the Cte des Bar has been
the scene for much of the innovation to
recently occur in Champagne. Domaines there were among the first to
adopt organic and viticultural practices,
innovative cellaring techniques such as
indigenous yeasts for fermentation and
low sulfur additions at bottling. Much
of this has come from new winemakers
moving into the area, thanks to lower
prices for vineyards and less stifling
traditions that dominate life and commerce further north. The houses of the
Cte des Bar are certainly worth investigating for new interpretations of what
Champagne can produce.

The unknown artists
Winemakers
In the past, you rarely heard about the
winemakers behind the champagne.
This was partially due to the corporate
nature of many large Champagne houses where the power of the brand and
integrity of the house style came first,
with winemakers being interchangeable
and somewhat secondary. In addition,
because the house style was so important, the winemakers were simply
there, working behind the scenes to put
the pieces together. Today, things are
different.
For one, the rise of the "growerchampagne" category has changed the
nature of the story being told to the
market. At most of these properties, the
grower and winemaker are one and the
same. Getting to know the winemaker
becomes more important because it is
their decisions that affect the style of
bubbly they produce. Accordingly, the
larger Champagne houses now realize
that quality must not remain static, and
it is up to the winemakers to improve
their product in an effort to remain both
relevant and competitive.
In the future you will undoubtedly start

reading more about the winemakers
behind the brands. That's to be expected, of course, from the smaller estates. But it is the larger grandes marques,
with the power of public relations dollars behind them, combined with the
never-ending need for journalists to
come up with a new story, where we
will begin to see the rise of the star
Champagne winemaker.
Thus far, Champagne winemakers that
enjoy a bit of international recognition
have stayed tremendously loyal to their
employers. As such, there is little industry gossip surrounding leadership
changes in the winemaking teams that
work in Champagne. But given the recent history of other winemaking regions, you might expect winemakers
like Richard Geoffroy of Dom Prignon,
probably Champagne's first superstar
winemaker, to create some buzz should
he ever decide to make a move. Its just
a matter of time.

The practice
Winemaking
With the increasing diversity and availability of champagnes in the market,
understanding the winemaking techniques behind a bottle of Champagne is
becoming increasingly important as
they will provide some indication of the
style you can expect. Accordingly, both
trade and consumers are asking more
questions about winemaking practices.
Hundreds of years ago, Champagne
was made much like other wines necessitating the use of wood and later concrete to ferment and age the base wine.
As technology progressed, there was an
increasing use of stainless steel to process fermentations in a controlled manner. These wines were fresher and crisper, with less toasty and oxidized flavors
than those fermented and aged in oak
barrels.
Today's winemakers have a wider
choice in making their blends. Houses
like Bollinger and Krug maintain long
held traditions with the use of oak
(usually older, neutral vessels) in fermentation and aging to give their wines
a more robust character. Because of this,
they use more pinot noir in their champagnes, which is able to withstand oak
aging. Other properties looking to preserve the minerality, elegance and freshness from the more delicate chardonnay
grape might avoid the use of oak altogether. Often however, a blend of the
two is preferred, in order to create a
more complex wine.
Another decision that winemakers are

faced with is whether to put their base
wines through malolactic fermentation.
Again, particularly with smaller houses
that rely on chardonnay as a major component, the decision to use this process
can change the nature of the final blend.
Wines that do not go through malolactic
fermentation, or malo, will be more
taut on the palate, preserving the
grape's minerality. On the other hand, if
you want to add a creamy texture by
lowering the acid profile on the palate,
malolactic fermentations can be of assistance.
The final and most important decision
made by Champagne winemakers is the
composition of the dosage, also known
as the liqueur d'expedition. This blend of
sugar with wine or grape must can be
manipulated to achieve a certain style of
wine. The amount of sugar in the dosage
will also determine whether the final
wine is labeled brut, extra dry,
ultra brut, demi-sec, etc. In recent
years, champagnes have become drier,
with tte-decuve and small estate
blends using less sugar in the dosage.
These are just a few of the questions that
are increasingly being asked by our
customers at JJ Buckley. My hope is that
by helping you become aware of the
choices faced by winemakers, you will
understand the style of Champagne you
prefer.

Whats in my bubbly?
Grapes
Champagne can be made from nine
grapes as proscribed by law. Chardonnay, pinot meunier and pinot noir form
the foundation for most cuves. However, grapes like pinot blanc, arbanne,
petit meslier, pinot gris, pinot de juillet
and pinot ros are also allowed, although these varieties make up only
0.2% of the vines in the region.
Most non-vintage cuves contain the
three mainstay grapes and the proportions vary considerably from house to
house. Vintage and tte-de-cuve blends
are predominantly chardonnay and
pinot noir combinations with percentages varying according to each estate's
preferred style.
Chardonnay and pinot noir are the most

important grapes in the production of
champagne, comprising the majority of
the grandes cuves and vintage releases.
These grapes complement each other
quite well with pinot noir providing
body and structure, while chardonnay
adds lightness and finesse. By altering
the blend in either direction, the winemaker can construct a blend that suits
the style of the house or his personal
preference.
Pinot noir is grown predominantly in

the northern Montagne de Reims that
separates Epernay from Reims. Vineyards facing south along the Marne River are prized for their power and structure while eastern and northern exposures provide a leaner, mineral-laced
style of pinot. The pinot noir component
adds structure and body to the final cuve and is also a vital component in ros
champagnes, where it contributes color
and fruity flavors to the finished wine.
While chardonnay is grown throughout

Champagne, the grape achieves its best
expression on the east facing slopes of
the Ctes des Blancs, the hills that lie
directly southeast of Epernay. Each of
the villages sprinkled along the Ctes
have slight variations in soils and exposure, creating subtle differences in the
base wine. The larger houses will blend
wines from different crus to create layers of complexity and nuance in the
final cuve while many smaller growerchampagnes are limited to the grapes
sourced from their individual plots.
Pinot meunier is largely grown in the

Valle de la Marne located directly west
of Epernay and Reims. Although technically a "black grape" due to the dark
color of its skin, the wine is more neutral
in flavor as compared to pinot noir.
Winemakers often see meunier as a
bridge between the chardonnay and
pinot noir, linking the finesse and power
of the two grapes. Rarely bottled by itself and frequently absent from vintage
or other prestige cuves, the house of
Krug is one of the region's few champions of the grape.

Whats in my bubbly?
Champagnes Indigenous
Varieties
If there is anything that wine enthusiasts have committed to their memories,
it's that chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier, in varying proportions, are
the three grapes used to make Champagne. Like many other details about
the wine and the region, that's just a bit
of the actual truth. Because as wine
geeks and aspiring MS and MW students know, it's that seven grapes are
legally allowed to be used in the production of Champagne. All of a sudden,
Champagne drinkers are hearing about
grapes such as arbane and pinot blanc
vrai, fromenteau and pinot meslier in
their bubblies. What's going on and how
did this happen?
In the 19th century, when the Champagne industry began the process of
becoming what it is today, there were
few regulations on what grapes were
allowed to be grown. Champagne resembled most other growing regions in
France, if not the world. Records from
the time indicate that grapes such as
chasselas, savignin and gamay were
grown in Champagne along with a wide

range of lesser known varieties, many of
which are now extinct. A census of varieties undertaken in 1910 revealed 39
distinct types of pinot noir in the Champagne region alone, each with a unique
name.
As the French wine industry became
more regulated around the start of the
20th century (with Champagne among
the first regions to do so), one of the first
topics addressed was the question of
permitted varieties. At the time, the
reputation of the region's wines had
suffered due to the introduction of lower quality grapes as well as fruits such
as rhubarb and pears from other regions
of France. In addition, the region's vineyards had been decimated following
World War I and a replanting regimen
needed to be organized in order to ensure that only those grapes of the highest quality were allowed.
Accordingly, laws were organized stipulating what grapes were permitted in
the production of Champagne. Starting
with regulations set up in 1935, preference was awarded to the three main
10
grape varieties, chosen for their suitability to the region's terroir as well as to the
finished wine. A number of other grapes
were outlawed completely but growers
were given a period of time before the
law would be enforced. The most notable grape affected by this new regulation
was gamay which was to be torn up by
1942. That deadline was extended to
1962, due to World War II.
Laws just passed in 2010 outlawed even
more varieties, and stipulated that while
ancient vines were allowed for Champagne production, new plantings of certain grapes were not allowed. Growers,
however, can replant designated varieties in any existing vineyards that already have them. These grapes, detailed
on the next page, are the main focus for
the new wave of Champagne's heritage
vine cuves. Today, even though vineyards dedicated to Champagne's indigenous varietals make up less than .01% of
all the region's plantings, they are compensating for their low profile with a
renewed share of interest and attention.

Whats in my bubbly?
Champagnes Ancient
Grapes
Champagne's main growing areas, the
Montagne de Reims, Vallee de la Marne
and the Cotes des Blancs, have long
dominated the region's focus and commerce. Many of the rules and regulations that were put into effect in the
early 20th century were quickly adopted
by these areas (close to Reims and
Epernay, the centers of Champagne's
commerce).
The Cotes des Bar, however, was quite
distant geographically from those main
regions and there was considerable debate as to whether this area should even
be included in the Champagne appellation. Most of the grapes in the Cotes des
Bar were sold to larger wineries that
preferred the riper wines that resulted
from the region's warmer temperatures.
Being a poorer area with a lower profile,
change came slowly to the Cotes des
Bar. The growers had little incentive to
modernize vineyards and the lack of
producers in the region meant there was
no pressure from local Champagne
houses as well. Accordingly, many of
Champagne's ancient vines remained in
production, sold to larger wineries and
co-ops that cared little about their
unique qualities.
Arbane
Pinot Blanc
This is one of the two varieties unique to

Champagne that are still permitted by
law. About 2.5 acres remain, with most
of the vineyards located in the warmer
Cotes des Bar. According to Moutard
winery, the region had significant plantings of Arbane but they lost favor due to
the grape's susceptibility to frost.
Moutard is one of the few wineries to
make a monovarietal bottling - most
other houses blend arbane with other
grapes.
A widely planted grape in Alsace but

also prevalent in many other countries,
pinot blanc played a considerable role in
Burgundian and Champenois viticulture
in the 19th century. But as agencies for
those regions began to create regulations
governing viticulture, pinot blanc lost its
favor among both growers and government officials as chardonnay became the
preferred varietal. One can easily understand pinot blancs former popularity in
Champagne as it was widely used in
Burgundy to make the sparkling wine,
Cremant de Bourgogne.
Petit Meslier
This rare grape is a cross of gouais blanc
and savagnin that, despite its difficulty
in the vineyards, is prized for its ability
to retain acidity, even in warmer vintages. The grape, however, suffers from
low yields and is prone to disease,
which is likely what led to its downfall.
There are thought to be about 20 hectares of petit meslier left in Champagne
as well as a small planting in the Eden
Valley of Australia, where it is also
made into a sparkling wine. Usually
blended with the Champagne's other
indigenous grapes, Duval-Leroy is one
of the few houses to still make a 100%
petit meslier.
Today, the Cotes des Bar is home to

some of Champagne's newest domaines who have more freedom to
experiment with innovative styles,
reviving the region's legacy. These
wineries have been among the strongest advocates for bringing attention to
the lost varieties, and they deserve
recognition for their efforts.
11
Pinot Gris
Known locally as fromenteau gris, the
home of pinot gris is nearby Alsace, but
it is also widely planted throughout the
globe. The fromenteau name also applies
to pinot gris grown in the Languedoc. It
lost its popularity in Champagne due to
poor yields and difficulty to ripen in the
lower northern temperatures.

Whats in my bubbly?
Producers
What follows is a list of producers who
have made cuves that highlight these
rare varieties. While it is by no means
comprehensive, it will steer the curious
in the right direction. And we can expect to see more bottlings emerge over
the years, as growers uncover forgotten
plots of vines and domaines start to
bottle their own wines (instead of selling their crops to co-ops or larger producers).
Aubry
The Aubry family has probably
achieved the most recognition for their
work with Champagne's ancient varieties thanks to Terry Theise, the domaine's enigmatic American importer.
This small domaine of 17 hectares is
located in the Montagne de Reims. In
preparation for the winery's bicentennial, the family decided to replicate a
blend that might have been produced at
the time of their domaines founding.
The Aubrys have three cuves that utilize some proportion of ancient varie-
ties. Their most famous cuve, "La

Nombre dOr Campanae Veteres Vites",
means old vines of the countryside. The
most recent release of their classic brut
bottling is the first to see 5% of the cuve contain a blend of petit meslier,
arbanne and fromenteau. The latest cuve uses all seven permitted varieties
and is a blend of 20% pinot gris and
pinot blanc, 20% petit meslier, 15% chardonnay, 25% pinot noir, 5% pinot
meunier and 15% arbanne. Champagne's only rose that sees any old varieties also comes from Aubry. Their
"2006 Sabl Ros Nicolas Franois Aubry" is the estate's most recent release
and is comprised of 35% cofermented
pinot noir and pinot meunier, 15% chardonnay, 20% arbanne, 20% petit meslier
and 10% still pinot meunier.
Bouchard
A close friend of the folks at famed
Jacques Selosse, Cedric Bouchard owns
vineyards which include a .21 hectare
plot of 40 year-old pinot blanc. 2005 was
the first vintage for a cuve named "La
Boloree", produced from this variety. It
has 4.5 bars of pressure compared to the
standard 6, so there is less effervescence
12
in this bottling. Most

reviewers recommend a few
years on cork
before it reaches its peak. A very rare
wine, only 800-1000 bottles are made
each year.
Drappier
Located in the Cte des Bar, Drappier
maintains its position as one of the best
wineries in the region. Not content to
rest on past success, the domaines work
in biodynamics and minimal sulfur additions are just two examples of where
Michel Drappier pushes the envelope.
The family's extensive vineyards included some old plantings of Arbanne, Pinot
Meslier, Pinot Blanc (which rarely ripened, according to Michel's father). In
2000, Michel blended those grapes with
some chardonnay in a new wine designated "Cuve Quattror" and he is quite
pleased with the blend, believing that
global warming (or Le Bon Probleme, as
some French vintners have coined it) has
allowed these unique grapes to achieve
full maturity.

Whats in my bubbly?
Diligent
The Franois Diligent label produces a
100% pinot blanc cuve with fruit planted on Kimmeredgian soils in the Cotes
des Bar. The label is owned by the parent company that also owns Champagne Moutard, a house that specializes
in Champagnes from the region's alternative varieties.
Dufour
Typically for the Cte des Bar, the majority of the plantings for this house are
planted to pinot noir. Charles Dufour's
vineyard has about 75% pinot noir, another 23% dedicated to chardonnay, and
a parcel each of pinot meunier and pinot
blanc making up the rest. The pinot
blanc is designated for their
"Simplement Blanc" cuve which sees
no dosage. Reviews have indicated that
the style of this Champagne is quite
unique, possessing considerable weight
(which makes sense given pinot blanc's
inherent texture).
found in Chablis). Dubbed

"L'Originale", it is probably the only
such bottling of its kind in Champagne.
Jacquesson
Jacqueson is reputed to have produced
some experimental bottlings of pure
petit-meslier from a quarter of acre of
vines planted in the grand cru village of
Dizy in the Montagne de Reims. It is
unclear if they intend to continue with
monovarietal bottlings or add it to the
Dizy Corne Bautray cuve.
Laherte
The Lahertes own 75 parcels of vines
spread across 10 villages. In 2003, Thierry planted an assortment of ancient varieties in the village of the Chavot, near
Epernay at the Montagne des Reims.
The plot is planted as follows: 10% fro-
Duval-Leroy
In the vintages of 1998, 2001 and 2004,
this Cotes des Blancs negociant made a
Champagne from 100% petit meslier for
their Aunthentis program. It is unclear
if this cuve is still in production but it
has received good reviews.
menteau, 8% arbanne, 14% pinot noir,

18% chardonnay, 17% pinot blanc, 18%
pinot meunier and 15% petit meslier. All
are blended together in one cuve. 2005
saw the first bottling, released in an extra brut style based on 60% from the
most recent vintage, along with 40%
reserve wine.
Moutard
The house of Moutard, located in the
Cotes des Bar village of in Buxeuil, has
become one of Champagne's most prominent exponents of wines from ancient
varieties. They are the only producer of a
100% arbane, the "Cuve Arbane Vieilles
Vignes" made from vines planted in
1955. Most other producers have utilized
these heritage vines in blends rather
than produce monovarietal wines.
Moutard's example, the "Cuve des 6
Cpages", uses equal proportions of each
permitted variety, excluding pinot gris.
Prevost
Gerbais
Jerome Prevost has made a name for

himself with the pinot meunier-based
Champagnes from his vineyards in the
Vallee de la Marne. He recently planted
an additional .2 hectares next to his acclaimed Les Bguines parcel. Planted
Pierre Gerbais has fashioned a Champagne of 100% pinot blanc vrai from a
plot whose vines can be traced back to
1904. The site is in the Cotes des Bar and
is planted on Kimmeridgian soils (also
13

Whats in my bubbly?
with pinot meslier, chardonnay, pinot
noir and pinot blanc, these vines are still
young and have not been designated to
a specific cuve.
Tarlant
Founded in 1687, this winery is located
in the village of Oeilly, near Epernay,
with 14 hectares of plantings spread
over 55 parcels in 4 villages. Arbanne,
pinot blanc and petit meslier vines are
included in the vineyards among the
traditional grapes, but is unclear which
cuve, if any, is designated for their
bottlings.
14

From dry to sweet, and in-between
Wine Styles
Almost everyone gets an education in
wine styles when ordering their first
bottle of champagne. Ubiquitous dry
styles labeled Brut and Blanc de Blancs
are familiar to almost everyone. Below
are some other styles you will encounter:
Extra Dry Champagnes
Extra Dry designations are increasingly a thing of the past. Partly due to confusion among consumers, these slightly
sweeter styles are being renamed by
Champagne houses without this term
on the label (examples include Mot &
Chandon Nectar and Pol Roger
Riche). Ironically, this has created
even more confusion for the consumer
since without any designation to indicate the level of sweetness, one has to
rely strictly on knowing these wines by
their brand name or hope that your retail clerk or server is familiar with the
product.
Blanc de Noirs Champagnes
These are much less common in Champagne than California, but there are a
few, mostly from small growerproducers who have identified small
plots of pinot that they feel merit special
attention. It may also surprise Champagne enthusiasts that two of the most
expensive cuves in the market are
blanc de noirs. Bollingers pre-
phylloxera Vieille Vignes Franaises

and Krugs Clos dAmbonnay are
100% pinot noir, commanding prices in
the thousands of dollars upon release.
Ros Champagnes
In a world where pink table wines are
often treated with derision, ros champagnes have an aura of romance and
heightened luxury. Made in limited
quantities, they usually command a
higher price than a standard cuve, thus
adding to their mystique.
Ross are made in two ways. The most
common is to add a small percentage of
still red pinot noir to the base wine prior
to cellar aging. The percentages vary
according to house preference, with
more color and softer flavors coming
from higher percentages. An addition of
about 5-10% is generally the norm, although there are experimental wines
with higher percentages. Still pinot noir
for ros is usually sourced from villages
along the southern hills of the Montagne de Reims, where the warmer sites
allow for riper grapes at harvest. Most
comes from the crus around the village
of Bouzy and surrounds.
The second method is called saigne,
where the pinot noir portion of the
Champagne blend is macerated on its
skins prior to fermentation. The resulting wine gains a deeper color, extracting
flavor components from the skins and
15
seeds. Ross made in this manner are

generally deeper in color, with rich,
viscous fruit textures as compared to the
more delicate footprint left by the traditional ros method.
It should be noted that making a ros
using the saigne method is more difficult and challenging, especially in poor
vintages where there is a reduction in
intensity of both color and flavor of the
pinot noir grapes. Thus, vintage variation among saigne ross is more likely,
whereas those made in the traditional
method benefit from more consistency
and are less labor-intensive.
Dessert Champagnes
Sweet champagnes are often an overlooked segment of the market. It was
not that long ago that most of the
Champagne produced was sweet, but as
the British taste for drier styles became
the global fashion, demi-sec and sec
styles were relegated to the shadows.
Today, many of the grandes marques continue to make these wines, but they are
often difficult to find or not exported.
Made by adding a higher percentage of
sugar to the dosage, some of the slightly
sweet styles are a perfect match for`
spicy dishes while very sweet Champagne can be a perfect dessert on their
own.

The Drier Side of Bubbly
One recurring theme we always emphasize in our annual Champagne report is
that the region and its wines are far
from static. It's easy to assume that
Champagne is rather dormant, with its
historic cellars and houses whose traditions and reputations often span centuries. But a closer examination reveals a
dynamic and evolving industry, one
that is genuinely exciting when you peel
back the curtain.
Nowhere is this so clearly evident than
in the style of the Champagne that is
made today. Most of the bubbly we
drink now is dry, but many are surprised to learn that dry Champagne is a
fairly recent development. When it entered its golden era of popularity in the
19th century, most of the bubbly produced was then quite sweet. In fact,
different countries had specific preferences on the level of sweetness they
preferred (with Russia preferring very
sweet styles while England's consumers
selected the driest versions). Champagnes of that era were probably 4-5
times sweeter than what is standard
today.
As Champagne enthusiasts know, dry-
ness levels are arranged in categories.

Generally, most brut Champagnes vary
between 10-15 g/l of residual sugar,
with the slightly sweeter extra dry bottlings ranging above 15 g/l to 18 g/l.
Extra brut champagnes will have less
than 6 g/l, with the non-dose or brut
sauvage cuves seeing no sugar added to
the dosage.
The sweetness in Champagne is determined by the dosage that is added to
each bottle following the disgorgement
of the dead yeast cells (which accumulate over the years spent in the cellar).
The main component of the dosage is the
liqueur d'exposition: a combination of
older reserve wines along with a measured amount of sugar.
The most important goal of the dosage is
to counterbalance the naturally high
acidity in any given bottle of Champagne. The winemaker must add just
enough to sugar to soften the acidity,
while retaining just enough to deliver
Champagnes trademark crisp finish.
Wine that has spent less time on its lees
tends to have more acidity, requiring
more sugar in the dosage. As Champagne ages in the cellar, the acidity softens. Therefore, vintage
and tete de cuve bottlings (which typically
spend many years en
tirage) usually require
less sugar after dis-
16
gorgement.
At the same time, however, the dosage
also determines the ultimate style of the
finished Champagne. Add more sugar
and the resulting wine will be sweet,
while less sugar in the dosage creates a
drier style. At the same time, the chef de
cave must remain aware of the level of
acidity that he wants in the finished
wine.
Extra Brut! Extra Brut! Read All About
It
While today's Champagnes are much
drier compared to the bubbles of the
past, the last decade has seen a small yet
noticeable increase in the production of
even drier versions. The labels of these
wines are designated as extra brut,
along with other terms such as no dose,
sauvage, brut nature and brut zero making more frequent appearances on labels
as well.
Wines with the extra brut designation
must have less than 6 g/l of finished
sugar, well below the level at which
most people can perceive sweetness and
way below the sugar level of brut bubblies. Dosages are permitted for the extra
brut category, but the bone dry ultra brut
or brut zero Champagnes are bottled
without any dosage.
While this trend has been closely linked
to the increase in the grower Champagnes made by small producers, bonedry Champagnes were introduced to
the market by larger houses many decades ago. Piper Heidsieck's Brut
Sauvage and Laurent Perrier's Ultra
Brut cuve (reintroduced in 1960) are

The Drier Side of Bubbly
two such examples.
The prevailing rationale as to why critics and winemakers prefer drier Champagne suggests that cuves should express the specific nuances of their terroir. The belief is that higher amounts of
sugar mask the subtle flavors that are
meant to be preserved.
There is a danger in this new trend.
Many in the press and trade argue that
grower Champagnes are inherently
better than those wines made by the
larger houses. And because many of the
Grand Marque Champagnes are thought
to come in at around 12-15 g/l (which
would theoretically place them in the
extra dry category), the argument posits
that the drier Champagnes being made
by many of the smaller domaines are
inherently better.
This trend has not arrived without controversy. For one, just because a Champagne is drier does not mean its better.
There remains a need for sugar in the
dosage to help balance out the strong
acidity in most Champagne. In addition,
there must be enough fruit in extra brut
and non-dosage cuves to ensure that the

palate does not leave an overly austere
impression. Wineries dealing with unfavorable terroir or cool vintages could be
left with some mean wines. Each component must be carefully calibrated in
order to create a balanced wine.
Taking Note
Another new trend related to the increased presence of extra brut Champagne has been a change in the way in
which wine critics now prepare their
tasting notes. Over the years, it has become more and more standard to see
certain bits of information included in
reviewer notes. In addition to the cepage,
disgorgement dates and lot numbers
that are increasingly evident in todays
reviews, levels of dosage are now part
of any note that aspires to be considered
complete. As a result, it sometimes
seems as though many of today's Champagne tasting notes have more numbers
than words!
17
It's important to remember, however,

that the stated amount of sugar in the
dosage must be taken with a grain of
salt. The grams per liter information
should not be taken as an up or down
vote on the quality of the wine being
reviewed. It is only one of many data
points now provided to help the consumer. More importantly, it is only a
partial indication of how dry the Champagne will ultimately seem on the palate. Once again, the most important
factors to determine a wines quality
and style are the balance of fruit, acidity
and sugar, in addition to the perceived
sweetness that remains in the finished
wine.

Saigne Ros: For those Who Prefer a Bit More Pink in their Drink
Champagne is a region that maintains
strong traditions. Change happens at a
slow pace and it seems you don't even
notice things changing until the alterations have already occurred. So it is
with ros champagnes. In the past,
How was this ros made? was a question delegated to the realm of wine
geeks. Today, in order to predict whether I will like a specific bottle, that is the
first question I ask.
The commonly accepted practice in
making ros Champagne is for still red
wine to be added, either to a blended
cuve prepared specifically for a ros
offering or to an existing blend such as
the wine designated for the classic nonvintage brut. This addition occurs after
the primary fermentation. The still pinot
noir (or pinot meunier with some houses) usually comes from the grand cru
villages of Bouzy and Ay, two particularly warm sites where the grapes can
easily ripen.
Though it varies according to the preferences of the house, the percentage of
pinot added to the blend typically ranges from 6-12%. Naturally, smaller
amounts will create a more subtle hue
while darker colors result from higher
percentages. It is important to understand, however, that simply adding
more still wine will not necessarily
make the wine fruitier or more colorful.
Colors will vary depending as much on
the quality of the added wine as on the
amount.
Recently, many Champagne houses

have begun using the saigne process to
make ross of deeper color and a more
powerful flavor statement. This technique requires the vintner to macerate
the skins and seeds of the pinot noir
component and that portion is then
blended with other grapes for the primary fermentation. This requires a bit
more attention to detail as too little or
too much time on skins can affect the
final result. In addition, poor harvest
conditions can result in less pigment
and flavor components.
The saigne process as described above
is evidenced best by Laurent Perrier's
Brut Ros, developed in 1968. Their
classic ros shows a beautiful cherry/
pink color and flavor profiles that are
round and centered on ripe fruit. Saigne
styled ross are finding increasing presence in the market, especially among
smaller domaines that are looking for
new expressions. It is generally recommended that saigne ross be consumed
close to their disgorgement to capture
the youthful fruit flavors and colors.
18
Understanding how your ros is made

will ensure a happy occasion. If a delicate style with subtle flavors and coloring is preferred, the method of adding
still pinot noir will likely provide the
most satisfaction. Ross with hints of
orange and drier, almost tannic, textures
are frequently made from the traditional
technique of adding still wine. The
saigne method is best for those who
want juicier fruit profiles on the palate
and more vibrant hues of pink. In the
end, it is good to know your ros champagnes so you can decide what style is
best for your occasion!

Whats in a year?
Vintage
The Champagne industry has not made
the question of vintage an easy issue to
address. Most champagnes that we
drink are designated by the term "nonvintage" or NV which is actually very
inaccurate. The more correct description
is "multi-vintage" as the finished wine is
usually a blend of differing years. Nevertheless, each years harvest provides
Champagne houses with a quantity of
wine that will comprise the base of the
final cuve. Older reserve wines are
added at the discretion of the winemaker and may comprise 5-40% of the finished product.
The concept behind blending vintages
for non-vintage wines is to create consistency year in and year out. But because so much of the final cuve is
based upon the fruit from a particular
year, there will be variations even in NV
wines, depending on the success or failure of the harvest. Warmer years like
2003 will contribute more fruit and
weight to the final blend where a more
sinewy wine that results from a colder
harvest might need more reserve wines
for added body and texture. Because
grower-champagnes have smaller production levels, a higher percentage of
their basic cuves often depend on the
fruit from one harvest.

For vintage wines and prestige cuves,
the year on the label is an indication of
that house's assessment as to the quality
of the harvest. Much like port houses,
each winery in effect "declares" a vintage to be of sufficiently high quality as
to warrant a special bottling. However,
there are no government regulations
involved in this declaration other than
the requirement that wines from other
years are forbidden in a vintage champagne.
Today we are seeing more wine critics
focusing their efforts on the Champagne
segment and along with that comes critical assessment of vintage quality. Most
will agree that 1996 was one of the best
recent vintages. 2002 and 2006 are looking good, but 2005 and 2007, not so
much. If the warming trend we are seeing continues, Champagne can expect to
see a succession of good vintages in the
future.
19

Big bang or gentle sigh?
Aging Champagne
Corks
Corks are still the preferred closure for
champagnes when they are disgorged
and released into the market. They are
wired into bottles to retain the CO2 in
the wine, which is under about five atmospheres of pressure.
Besides the risk of cork taint, over time
corks can lose their seal which is necessary to maintain pressure, effervescence
and freshness. By checking the cork
after opening, you can get a rough idea
on when the wine was disgorged. As
you can see in the picture below, the
cork on the left is thick and has almost
expanded back to its original size. This
is a good sign that the bottle was recently disgorged and will be fresh and
youthful. The stem on the right cork is

narrow and has not expanded at all after the bottle was opened. This is a likely indication that the wine was disgorged some time ago or that the wine
could have seen some warm temperatures. There's a good chance that this
wine will have less effervescence and
could also be oxidized if some air has
seeped through the cork.
There is no way to tell from looking at
the cork to tell if it is tainted with TCA.
Unfortunately, the use of alternative
closures such as crown seals seems a
long way off.
Champagne is best drunk fresh when

the fruit flavors are vibrant and the effervescence is active. Depending on
personal taste, however, you might prefer an aged champagne. As the wine
ages, Champagne colors deepen from
lighter straw to more golden hues. Effervescence also disappears with age
and the beading may be subtle or nonexistent. Accordingly, the wine may
resemble a still wine more than the bubbly we are accustomed to. Pronounced
aromas of yeast and mushroom become
more evident over time while the primary fruit scents fade away.
Champagne also ages in the short term
and paying attention to disgorgement
dates can be of help in understanding
what you are tasting. After the dead
yeast cells are expelled from the bottle, a
dosage of sugar and wine is added, and
the wine is then sent down the line to
receive its cork and cap. Traditionally,
most Champagne rests for six to twelve
months after disgorgement in order to
allow the dosage and Champagne to
marry. In some cases, a recently disgorged Champagne can seem disjointed, with aromas of fresh brandy spirit
dominating the bouquet. In such cases,
some additional short term aging can be
beneficial to allow the wine to become
more integrated and harmonious.
20

Reading a Champagne label
Whats with the letters?
The two letter codes found in small
print on front labels are production
codes that will tell you a bit about how
the wine is made. These production
codes specifically refer to the winery's
role in growing grapes and/or purchasing fruit or wine. It is important to note
they are not an indication of quality;
good and bad examples can be found in
each of the categories described below.
NM: Ngociant manipulant. These
companies buy grapes and make the
wine. Most larger Champagne houses
and grandes marques fall into this category.
SR: Socit de rcoltants. An association of growers making a shared Champagne but who are not a co-operative.
RC: Rcoltant cooprateur. A cooperative member selling Champagne
produced by the co-operative under its
own name and label.
MA: Marque auxiliaire or Marque
d'acheteur. A brand name unrelated to
the producer or grower; the name is
owned by someone else, for example a
supermarket.
ND: Ngociant distributeur. A wine
merchant selling under his own name.
.
Disgorgement Date
The most important information being
included on labels today is the disgorgement date. It is at this point in the winemaking process after the dead yeast
cells are expelled or disgorged, that the
Champagne begins its the process of
aging in the bottle. Unlike still wines
that are bottled once when aging is completed, Champagne houses disgorge
their wines on demand. For non-vintage
cuves, this is often a continuous process whereas vintage champagnes may
be disgorged and released into the market multiple times over a period of
years.
This information is important for a
number of reasons, but mainly it will
give you an indication as to how long it
has been since the winery released that
batch of wine for sale into the market.
CM: Cooprative de manipulation.

This refers to co-operatives that make
wines from the growers who are members, with all the grapes pooled together.
RM: Rcoltant manipulant. Grower champagnes are usually grouped under
this category. A grower that makes wine
from its own grapes (a maximum of 5%
of purchased grapes is permitted). Note
that co-operative members who take
their bottles to be disgorged at the coop
can now label themselves as RM instead
of RC.
21

How big is your bottle?
Bottle Size
Most Champagne is sold and bottled in
the standard 750ml size bottle but you
can find a dizzying array of bottle sizes
ranging from the 187ml airline bottle up
to a 30 liter bottle that contains over 3
cases of fizz. Bottle size has both advantages and drawbacks that may impact your drinking pleasure.
Champagne is traditionally aged on its
lees in the basic 750ml size before it is
disgorged. A number of wineries also
cellar their wines in half bottles and
magnums. Most sparkling wines in bottles of six liters or more are filled by
transferring the wine from 750s or magnums into the larger vessel. Because this
transfer exposes the wine to small
amounts of air and can affect pressure
inside the bottle, most experts agree that
sparkling wine in extra-large formats
should be consumed earlier rather than

later for maximum effervescence. Large
format bottles will lose their fizz more
quickly than the traditional 750ml size.
When it comes to aging champagne,
common consensus is that magnums are
the preferred bottle size for cellaring.
The reasons for this are numerous and
mysterious but most agree that the wine
evolves more slowly in magnum as
compared to the standard 750ml bottle,
which retains fruit flavor for a longer
period of time and seems to add another
dimension of complexity.
Magnum
1500ml = 2 standard bottles
Jeroboam/Double Magnum
Rehoboam
4500ml = 4.5 standard bottles
Methuselah/Imperial
Salmanazar
Quarter
187ml = standard bottle
Balthazar
12,000ml = 16 standard bottles
Half/Split
375ml = standard bottle
Nebuchadnezzar
Bottle
750ml = 1 standard bottle
Melchior
Solomon
20,000ml = 26.66 standard bottles
Sovereign
25,000ml = 33.33 standard bottles
Primat
Melchizedek
22

Serving Champagne
Glassware
Champagne has long been on the receiving end of rulesones about how it
is made, how it is labeled, and how it
should be drunk. Over the years, we
have come to accept those regulations
and perhaps even find it comforting
that they don't fluctuate often. But today, Champagne is witnessing revisions
to concepts that were before considered
sacrosanct, and they have nothing to do
with grapes or labels. The change has to
do with glass vessels.
If there is one rule that has been generally accepted across the board, it is that
sparkling wine is best served in a flute,
preferably scored at the base to promote
effervescence then rinsed with water
and dried with a towel. Along that same
line of thinking is that the coupe, also
referred to as the Marie Antoinette
glass, fails to preserve bubbles since the
broader surface allows what is in the
glass to go flat more quickly. Recently,
though, many in the industry are rethinking this.
Most significantly, a slow movement is

afoot to replace the traditional flute with
a classic wine glass. A number of winemakers and writers claim that in order
to maximize the wine's flavors and enhance aromas, pouring Champagne in a
burgundy styled glass is preferable to a
flute. At the least, they claim, a wider
and broader shape to the bowl of the
flute is the minimum recommendation.
Decanting
Another trend that has popped up is for
sparkling wines to be decanted. I witnessed this firsthand at a recent tasting
hosted by the CIVC (Comit Interprofessionnel du vin de Champagne) where the
representatives for Charles Heidsieck
poured their bubbly out of Riedel's
Amadeo decanters. Once again, the goal
is to reveal the flavors that would otherwise appear much more slowly, if at all,
when only poured from a bottle.
These changes to the accepted wisdom
about pouring and drinking bubbly do
not come without controversy. Much
has been written about changes in dosage levels and the various crus that can
affect the way a wine tastes in a very
minute way, but using decanters and
new glassware is such a major change
that even Champagne makers are in
conflict.
23
At a tasting of the champagnes of Terry

Thiese, who has defined the artisanal
fizz movement in the US, I conducted
an informal survey of the producers in
attendance. While some saw a wider
bowl more helpful in letting their wines
reveal the hidden flavors and aromas, a
surprising number drew the line at using decanters. Preserving their wines
effervescence was very important to
them.
Both of these trends turn our classic
understanding of Champagne on its
head. No doubt, using decanters or burgundy glasses would dissipate the bubbles and effervescence that winemakers
work so hard to create (and what consumers have been taught to appreciate).
Utilizing regular glassware or decanters
is treating sparkling wine more as a still
wine. While some drinkers see the flatness as a fault, many connoisseurs still
appreciate that older champagnes lose
their bubbles over time. The theories
that form the logic behind this
"glassware revolution" are understandable. However, the question then becomes whether bubbles are still important to champagne. That is a question each consumer and, ultimately the
sparkling wine industry, must decide.
THE GRANDES MARQUES

The art of assemblage
When thinking of champagne, certain
brands come quickly to mindand for
good reason. With many wineries tracing their histories back some 300 years
or more, those still around today have
developed serious brand equity. These
houses are known as the grandes
marques, named as such by their membership in the Union de Maisons de
Champagne.
While each has an historic identity and
a wine style that has been nurtured and
preserved over the years, today many
of these houses are part of large corporations that own a number of brands.
Some people might be quick to doubt
the quality of their champagnes simply
because of this affiliation. However,
there can be no denying the ability of
the grandes marques to produce quality
cuves at various price points, all the
while carrying more than their share of
the promotional work which benefits
the entire region.
The key behind the success of champagnes from the grandes marques is in
blending. Because their large production needs are sourced from among
some 20,000 growers spread out over
300 villages, it is not possible to express
the flavors of a single site. Therefore a
thorough understanding of blending is
essential in order to produce a consistent product from year to year, espe-
cially for the non-vintage cuves that make

up the bulk of sales for each house. The
tradition of adding reserve wines from past
harvests allows each house to adjust the
blend to account for vintage differences.
At a typical grandes marques house, the chef
de cave faces the daunting task of assembling wines from three different grapes,
grown by hundreds of growers, from almost as many villages. Some blenders may
have 300 individual lots of wine at their
disposal. These young, acidic still wines
are tasted and blended about six months
after harvest, an incredible feat given that
the winemaker has to project what these
wines will taste like anywhere from three
to fifteen years down the road!
However the big houses are not entirely
resistant to changes in style or to developing new concepts. Popularized by Bollinger's "RD" cuve, more houses are now
releasing bottles that have been aging on
their lees in the cellar for periods of up to
thirty years. Recognizing the increasing
popularity of grower champagnes, a few
houses are also releasing cuves that are
more site specific, either from a single vineyard, from one village or a regional blend
of fruit, such as a cuve from the Ctes des
Blancs. With a large quantity of vineyards
at their fingertips and considerable financial resources, we can expect more innovation from the grandes marques in the future.
Grandes Marques
Reviewed:
Bollinger
Charles Heidsieck
Deutz
G.H. Mumm
Heidsieck Monopole
Henriot
Krug
Laurent-Perrier
Louis Roederer
Nicolas Feuillatte
Perrier-Jout
Piper-Heidsieck
Pol Roger
Pommery
Salon
Taittinger
24
BOLLINGER
A
When reading the story of Bollinger, the
moral seems to be that adopting and
upholding a style will lead to success.
However, the real lesson shows that
triumph comes from making the effort
to educate the market about that style.
Bollinger has excelled in that arena, and
its exalted place among the grandes
marques remains secure.
Bollinger, much like Krug, has defined
its style with the use of oak in winemaking. All grapes for the "Grande Anne"
and a significant portion destined for
the "Special Cuve" undergo fermentation in three to six year old Burgundy
barrels. Bollinger is renowned for having its own coopers to maintain the barrels, which is a very expensive proposition.
Bollinger also keeps a large stash of
reserve wines, which are held in magnums under cork and arranged in the
cellars according to vintage and village.
They usually make up about 10% of the
finished blend of the non-vintage
"Special Cuve. That portion of the
cuve may be an assemblage of up to
ten vintages between five and twenty
years of age, making the chef de cave's
skill as a blender of paramount importance.
These methods combine to create Bollinger's definitive style. Among the houses
that use wood for fermentation and aging,
Bollinger stands alone for its weight and
complexity, thanks to the wide array of
vineyard sources and extensive use of reserve wines for the "Special Cuve." These
wines are definitely for fans of oak-driven
fizz, although it would be nice to see a bit
more fruit to balance the wood component.
Bollinger
stands alone for
its weight and
complexity
NV Brut "Special Cuve"

25% chardonnay, 15% pinot meunier, 60%
pinot noir. Deep golden straw in color with a
slow persistent bead. Aromas of spicy sandalwood emerge, followed by toast, honey and
mead. This is a robust, masculine Champagne
with intense flavors of wood and caramel, finishing with notes of yeast and other autolytic
characters. (L016206) 92 points Chuck Hayward
NV Brut Ros
pinot noir. Five percent of the blend consists of
still pinot noir added to the base. Medium-deep
salmon color. Toasty, woody notes dominate
the bouquet with pinot fruit underneath. The
palate shows initial hints of cherry, but strong
flavors of wood, caramel and honey complete
the wine. The oaky finish is dry and firm. An
unusual style, it seems to miss the mark of a
true ros as it is does not display a clear expression of pinot noir fruit on the nose and
palate. That said, if you prefer a firmer, oakier
ros, this is a good one. 90 pointsChuck
Hayward
2000 Brut "Grande Anne"

33% chardonnay, 67% pinot noir. Deep golden color. The bouquet is classic Bollinger with
strong aromas of brandy and wood, suggesting
a freshly disgorged bottle, followed by fresh
mushrooms. The flavors of caramel, burnt
toast and lemon on the back-palate contribute
to the firmly structured finish. An excellent
choice for fans of oak-influenced Champagne.
93 pointsChuck Hayward
25
CHARLES HEIDSIECK
Reims
Charles Heidsiecks connection to the
US market has a long and dynamic history. As Champagne production started
to expand in the early 1800s, houses
found themselves with more wine than
local markets could drink and therefore
began to export throughout Europe.
Sensing opportunities overseas, Charles
-Camille Heidsieck crossed the Atlantic
numerous times to promote his wines,
earning the nickname "Champagne
Charlie" (and later a movie by the same
name with Hugh Grant in the starring
role). However, his arrest during the
Civil War and a major diplomatic incident which led to time in jail made him
rethink future travels.
Today, the winery has been joined with
Piper-Heidsieck under common ownership by the Rmy Martin conglomerate
and has set about redefining its style.
Under the direction of Regis Camus,
also in charge at Piper-Heidsieck,
Charles Heidsieck has assumed a distinct identity. Where Piper's champagnes emphasize forward fruit and a
richly textured palate, Camus has continued the work of his predecessor in
making Charles Heidsieck a more masculine style, showing off notes of honey
and toast. Interestingly, these flavors are
achieved without the use of oak. Instead, the autolytic characters of yeast,
nuts, and bread come from both extensive time spent on lees before bottling
and a high proportion of reserve wines
added to the final blend. To ensure that
consumers were getting the best bubbly
possible, Charles Heidsieck became one
of the first houses to put disgorgement
dates on all of their wines.
When tasting through the portfolio,

Charles Heidsieck's style was quite evident. Unlike the pattern of Bollinger, the
powerful aromas of toast and yeast are
more balanced here with th e fruit not so
overwhelmed by autolytic characters. This
is readily apparent in the vintage cuve
where the fruit is clear and present. It is
when you come to the non-vintage blend,
along with the tte-de-cuve Blanc des Millnaires, that bread and nuts make their
way to the forefront.
NV Brut Ros "Ros Reserve"

pinot noir. The addition of 5% still pinot noir
from the grand cru of Bouzy. Salmon color.
The nose is quite subtle on this cuve with
hints of Bing cherry mixing with toasty aromas. This Champagne is of medium weight
with understated fruit flavors. This is a firm,
structured fizz with a dry finish but lacks the
juicy, pinot flavored core of other ros Champagnes. (L082258) 90 points Chuck Hayward
2000 Brut Vintage

40% chardonnay, 60% pinot noir. Yellow gold
in color, the backward nose shows subtle hints
of yeast. Medium bodied, restrained and subtle
flavors show a bit more fruit than toast or
yeast, with roasted apple and pear apparent on
a firmly structured palate. The finish is clean
and crisp. 92 points Chuck Hayward
1995 Brut Blanc de Blancs

"Cuve de Millnaires
NV Brut "Brut Reserve"

pinot noir. Fruit from the 2004 harvest comprises 60% of the blend with the remainder
coming from reserve wines. Yellow gold in
color. Very complex aromas of fresh apricot
and citrus-laced apple coexist with toast and
yeast. Medium-plus in body, the core fruit
flavors are clean and focused, supported by the
autolytic characters of toasted bread and caramel. A bit structured on the back-palate, the
elegant finish still keeps the fruit as the focus
of the wine. (Disgorged in 2008) 93 points
Chuck Hayward
26
100% chardonnay. This is the tte-de-cuve of

the house and has been made only five times
since 1980. Aged 10 years on the lees before
disgorgement, the grapes are sourced from five
grand crus in the Ctes des Blancs. This golden colored Champagne did not have much
effervescence. Yeast and porcini mushroom are
the primary aromas while mature characters of
honeyed toast and croissants join in the bouquet. The attack is soft and gives way to intensely concentrated flavors of honey, wood
and other autolytic characters. The finish is
crisp and light. 94 points Chuck Hayward
DEUTZ
A
Founded in 1838 as a negociant business, Deutz has seen continuous family
involvement in the business for over
five generations, even after the company was purchased by Roederer in 1993.
Producing about 125,000 cases, Deutz
falls squarely into the mid-size segment
of the Champagne market.
Similar to Roederer, Deutz has increased reliance on its own grape
sources to maintain its style, with selfowned vineyards supplying 35% of production needs. In making the various
cuves, there is no use of oak or other
oxidative procedures, though malolactic
fermentation is utilized for texture. The
addition of about 30-35% reserve wines
also provides continuity of style for the
basic non-vintage blend.
Deutz is a Champagne house that has
always been moderate in aspiration and
in style, which is not necessarily a bad
thing. Maintaining consistency in the
Champagne world is quite difficult, but
the blend of the basic non-vintage cuve
has been unchanged since World War I.
Tasting across the portfolio, it is easy to
see the Deutz style of precisely poised
and balanced fruit presented cleanly
and without artifice. If this style appeals
to you, Deutz certainly will not disappoint.
NV Brut "Brut Classic"
2005 Brut Ros

pinot noir. A complex and balanced mlange
of granny smith apple, burnt caramel and
spiced pear forms the bouquet. Moderately
intense flavors of crisp pear with subtle, sweet
spice are fresh and vibrant. The finish is firm
yet snappy. (LB111D05510) 91 points
Chuck Hayward
100% pinot noir, 10% from still, old-vine

pinot. Pale strawberry color. Hints of fresh
flowers straddle aromas of cherry and earth.
This elegant wine is a classic example of the
Deutz style, medium weighted with subtle
cherry notes on a delicate finish.
(LA109D0369) 91+ points Chuck Hayward
it is easy to see the

Deutz style of
precisely poised and
balanced fruit
presented cleanly
and without artifice
100% chardonnay. 90% of the fruit comes
from the grand crus of Mesnil-sur-Oger and
Avize. Deep straw in color, this cuve has
fresh baked bread and hints of lemon. This is a
slightly fuller style of blanc de blancs with a
notable palate presence. Vibrant grapefruit
mingles with a touch of rich lime, and good
acidity makes for a crisp finish.
(LA106D0038) 92 points Chuck Hayward
27
1998 Brut "Cuve William"

pinot noir. Pronounced aromas of yeast and
toast formulate the bouquet's autolytic style.
The palate is marked by intriguing flavors of
cherry surrounded by dried apricot and other
baked fruit, along with pastry dough. Almost
ros-like in flavor, the finish is crisp with hints
of aged yeast. (L04D0807) 93+ pointsChuck
Hayward
G.H. MUMM
Reims
G.H. Mumm is the third largest producer of champagne, with the iconic
"Cordon Rouge" setting the pace. Even
with 540 estate-owned acres, Mumm
must still source enough grapes from
growers to supply 75% of their needs
for each harvest. Probably the brand in
the United States for over a century, it is
also the winery that seems to have suffered the most in the quality department
due to multiple changes in ownership.
Mumm's revolving door when it comes
to winemakers has not helped, as most
vintners in Champagne tend to stay at
their posts indefinitely. However, unlike
other wineries stripped of their land
and resold to cover the purchase costs,
Mumm still holds these valuable resources.
While the "Cordon Rouge" cuve is
closely tied to the company's identity,
the house also produces one of the most
unique styles of Champagne in the
"Mumm de Cramant." Made since 1882,
bottles of the originally-named
"Cremant de Cramant" were reserved
for the friends and family of G.H.
Mumm and was not released for commercial sale until 1960. This chardonnay
based Champagne is sourced entirely
from the winery's 20 acre holdings in
the grand cru of Cramant in the Ctes
des Blancs.
Where most Champagne of reasonable

quality will spend at least three years in
the cellars, this cuve is disgorged after
just 24 months to retain the fresh fruit
flavor which is one of the wines hallmarks. The winery also completes malolactic fermentation, which reduces the
acidity in the final blend. Lastly, to preserve the delicate palate, the wine is bottled with only 4.5 atmospheres of pressure
versus the 6 atmospheres found in most
Champagnes. The result is a less effervescent wine, which might lead some to mistakenly think the bottle is a bit flat when
drinking this historic champagne.
the house also

produces one of the
most unique styles
of Champagne in
the Mumm de
Cramant
NV Brut "Cordon Rouge"

pinot noir. A blend of 77 crus, reserve wines
comprise 10-20% of the final blend, depending
on the harvest. Pale straw color. Buoyant aromas of ripe lemon, sweat, and earth lurk in the
background. Round in texture with flavors of
honeyed pear, those earthy notes continue onto
the palate and finish of this medium bodied
Champagne. 88 points Chuck Hayward
NV Brut Ros
pinot noir. About 12% of the finished wine is
still pinot noir, mostly from the cru of Bouzy.
About 18% of the blend is reserve wine drawn
from three vintages of pinot noir. Deeper salmon in color, subtle aromas of crushed berry fill
the nose of this elegant rendition of ros Champagne. The pinot flavor is clean and pure,
though somewhat subtle, with fresh strawberry
notes lingering on the finish. This harmonious
bottling was a revelation in Mumms portfolio.
93 points Chuck Hayward
NV Brut "Mumm de Cramant"

100% chardonnay. 100% from the grand cru
village of Cramant. Bright yellow straw color
with surprisingly good bead. Clean, lemonscented aromas are subtle and restrained while
the palate shows almond-infused flavors and
remarkable texture. This is close to a still wine
in its palate presence with the acidity and
slight effervescence serving as a gentle indicator of its Champagne pedigree. It is also one of
the most distinctive sparkling wines made in
28
HEIDSIECK MONOPOLE
Epernay
Of the three Heidsieck houses in Champagne, Heidsieck Monopole is probably
the least well-known winery in the
American market. Founded in 1785, the
brand was quite popular among European royalty during the late 19th century. Owned by the house of Mumm from
1972 until 1996, it was purchased by the
Vranken group whose portfolio now
includes Pommery and Charles Lafitte.
Since the purchase, the Belgian consortium has made a considerable investment
in upgrading the brand.
Given the three major Champagne labels now under Vranken ownership,
production is being refocused to avoid
duplication of style. Accordingly,
Heidsieck Monopole has been positioned as a pinot noir house with its
resulting champagnes representing a
full bodied profile at more value oriented pricing. This compares to their sister
house Pommery, which has been redirected towards a softer, fruity style by
utilizing more chardonnay in the blends
and is being positioned as a step up
from Heidsieck. The famous "Diamant
Bleu" tte-de-cuve line is no longer
made under the guise of Heidsieck
Monopole and is now the core brand
under the Vranken winery name. The
two "Blue Top" bottlings are an interesting exercise on how grape sources can
influence quality, with the premier cru
bottling as a superior champagne.
NV Brut "Blue Top"
with its resulting Champagnes

representing a
full bodied profile at more value
oriented pricing
29

pinot noir. Deep golden straw. Snappy aromas
of apples and hints of herbs which follow
through to the palate. Medium full bodied,
there is definitely more power and structure
here compared to Pommery. Straightforward
with very fresh flavors of lemon drop candy
and melon leading towards a dry, firm finish.
A pleasant fizz. (Disgorged in 2009) 90 points
Chuck Hayward
NV Brut "Blue TopPremier Cru"

40% chardonnay, 60% pinot noir. Made from
100% premier cru vineyards, you can easily
see what better grapes can bring to the table.
The palate is much richer than the basic "Blue
Top" with a complete, concentrated and longer finish. Aromatically, there are wild aromas
of mead, tree pollen and honey along with
wood influenced minerals. (Disgorged 2006)
HENRIOT
Reims
Joseph Henriot knows Champagne.
Indeed, his familys rich history in
Champagne can be traced back to the
house's founding in 1808. But thanks to
the efforts of its current patriarch, the
brand and the family have recently experienced substantial growth.
Joseph's tenure at Veuve Clicquot,
where he served as managing director
from 1985 to 1994, was actually his
claim to fame. It was during that time
that the illustrious house experienced
considerable growth is sales and popularity. But in working for LVMH, the
luxury wine conglomerate that owns
Veuve Clicquot (along with other houses including Moet and Krug), Joseph
could not dedicate the time to his own
family business that he yearned to
spend. So in 1995 he resigned, assuming
a greater role in the activities of Henriot.
With relatively limited international
brand awareness, Joseph aimed to raise
the profile of his winery, utilizing the
skills and contacts he acquired during
his time at Clicquot.
Shortly after, he acquired Bouchard, the
famed Burgundy producer, along with
Chablis specialist William Fevre, creating a
small portfolio of wineries. Like many other
Burgundy negociants,
Henriot has recently expanded his scope

into Beaujolais with the purchase of Chateau Poncie.
Henriot is based in Reims, next door to
Charles Heidsieck, with whom the family
has maintained an intimate working relationship going back centuries. Henriot
currently owns about 35 hectares of vineyards, with the most highly rated plots
located in the Cotes des Blancs. However,
these vineyards only supply 20% of the
winery's needs, so the rest of the grapes
are purchased from growers.
The style of Champagne made at Henriot
is quite distinctive. Favoring a restrained
interpretation, Henriot's cuves stress
subtly and complexity - quite the opposite
of the richer, more autolytic approaches
espoused by other houses. This makes
perfect sense, given their extensive holdings in the Cotes des Blancs. While the
flavors may lack some of the precision of
many grower Champagnes, Henriot

builds a subtle and underlying complexity
to their cuves, thanks to their extended
time on lees and the use of reserve wines
in their blends. With newly fashioned
labels, the concise portfolio is a good
source for those who prefer elegance in
their Champagne.
NV Brut "Souverain"
47% chardonnay, 50% pinot noir, 3% pinot
meunier. The base for this cuve comes from
the 2006 vintage, with 33% of the final blend
comprised of reserve wines. With a medium
straw color and a moderately active bead, the
bouquet is toasty and biscuity, with a thread
of mushroom aromas. The broad texture on the
palate is accompanied by ripe, baked apple and
pear, while earthy and savory undertones
highlight additional hints of fresh mushroom
to add interest underneath. The flavors build
towards the back where they fade towards a
soft and delicate finish. Lot L1125021110. The
dosage is 8 g/l. Enjoy 2012-2016. 91 points
Chuck Hayward
NV Brut Blanc de
Blanc
100% chardonnay from 8
different villages of the
Cote de Blancs. The cuve
is supplemented by roughly 40% of older reserve
wines. Immediate aromas
of fresh yeast are quite
30
HENRIOT
Reims
pronounced, but the focused and perfumed
bouquet is soon complemented by a bright
beam of high-toned citrus along with a top
note of roasted nuts. The attack is bright
and fresh, thanks to fresh acidity. Almost
medium bodied, with notes of crisp pear that
give way to earthy, savory tones. With its
citrusy finish, there is a feathery texture and
faint crispness to tidy up the taste experience. It would be good to see a bit more
freshness of fruit instead of the earthy notes
at the backpalate. The dosage is 10 g/l. Enjoy
2012-2016. 88 points Chuck Hayward
mousse in the glass along with a perfumed

bouquet, highlighting fresh cherry aromas.
The light-bodied palate has notes of dried berry and freshly tilled earth. Stressing delicacy
and purity, the finish is subtly flavored and
soft. The dosage is 10 g/l. Lot L1205311011.
Enjoy 2012-2015. 91 points Chuck Hayward
2005 Brut Vintage

50% chardonnay and 50% pinot noir. From
a blend of 12 premier and grand cru vineyards, this cuve spent six years on lees
prior to disgorgement. Clear, showing a hint
of straw, this cuve shows less color than the
basic brut bottling. There's an elegant, restrained profile to the nose, as aromas of
fresh spice, earth, and bay leaf waft about
the glass. The attack is understated, but the
flavor intensity soon picks up weight towards the midpalate. Medium-bodied and
elegant, showcasing subtle, yet pure flavors
of zippy citrus. Some honeyed notes appear
on the backpalate before giving way to a
light lemon spine on the focused finish. It is
easy to see how this could use some time
under cork, as the tightness seems to rein in
the complex citrus-driven potential. The
dosage is 10 g/l. Lot L1123911010. Enjoy
2012-2017. 92+ Chuck Hayward
NV Brut Rose
60% chardonnay and 40% pinot noir, along
with 12% still pinot noir wine from the
premier cru village of Mareuil-sur-Ay. The
base for this cuvee came from the 2006 vintage. Pale salmon hue, more orange than
pink. There's active effervescence and a mild
31
KRUG
Reims
The house of Krug has achieved global
fame among Champagne connoisseurs,
and deservedly so. Yet it may be a surprise to some that the winery is in many
ways a very traditional negociant house,
purchasing almost all fruit from growers through long term contracts. Krug
owns just 20 hectares of vineyards, of
which a large portion is destined for
Krugs rare single-vineyard cuves.
Although established in 1843, its rise to
prominence began in the 1960s under
the passionate leadership of brothers
Rmi and Henri Krug. Like many wineries run by two brothers, the work was
divided between production and promotion and each brother assumed a
role. The shy Henri developed a reputation as one of the best blenders in
Champagne, while the more outgoing
Rmi travelled the world, evangelizing
the Krug approach and garnering a cast
of followers he called "Krugistes." In
1999, the winery was sold to the Louis
Vuitton luxury group, but with continued family involvement. Olivier Krug
represents the next generation in both
the boardroom and the blending room.
Krugs distinctive style is tied to two
main skill sets that each winemaker in
Champagne must possess: the talent
required to create the wine and the skill
and vision required to blend them. The
multi-vintage "Grande Cuve" makes
up most of the production and wholly
represents the philosophy of the house.
Wine from one vintage comprises the
base for the Grande Cuve, but the
winemaking team also utilizes Krugs
extensive stock of reserve wines to add
to this foundation.
The base wine for the Grande Cuve is a

traditional blend of chardonnay, pinot
meunier and pinot noir with the latter two
making up the majority of the blend. While
the proportions vary each year, Krug is
unique for the belief that pinot meunier
should be a major portion of the cuve. As
with the base wine, the proportion of reserve wines also varies by vintage but is
estimated to make up between 35-50% of
the final wine. This portion of the cuve is
usually comprised of wines between six to
ten years old, sourced from twenty to thirty different crus. It can be a daunting task
to achieve consistency in a non-vintage
cuve when you are tasked with assembling various lots from both the current
harvest, as well as the wide variety of reserve wines at Krugs disposal. Accomplishing this feat year after year requires
talents and skills that few winemakers possess.
Krug is also one of the few houses to embrace the use of oak in fermenting the base
wines. This is certainly a signature trait,
though the staff employs a number of techniques to keep the oak component in balance with the finished wine. By avoiding
malolactic fermentation, the wines retain
freshness and elegance. And with the reserve wines being aged in stainless steel, it
adds a lighter touch to the final blend. Each
component is a necessary part of the finished wine and together they lead to
Krugs justified acclaim.
32
NV Brut "Grande Cuve"

Golden straw color with fine subtle beading,
aromas of very refined oak are sophisticated
and poised, rather than overpowering. Along
with the gentle wood notes are subtle aromas
of honey and citrus blossom. The palate is rich
with mouthfilling textures and seamlessly
integrated flavors, yet like the bouquet, still
shows a measure of restraint. This is not a shy
Champagne yet maintains elegance in the
light, refined finish. Of all of the Champagnes
with strong oak presence, this clearly shows
deft winemaking with an appropriate amount
of restraint that allows the core of fruit to
shine. 94+ points Chuck Hayward
Krugs distinctive style

is tied to two main skill
sets that each winemaker
in Champagne must
possess: the talent
required to create the
wine and the skill and
vision required to blend
them
LAURENT-PERRIER
Tours-sur-Marne
2009 saw Laurent-Perriers extended
family, with its many workers and salesmen, mourningthe passing of Bernard de
Nonancourt, the winery's beloved owner.
Long considered a legend among legends in Champagne, he ran the largest
family-owned house there and it was
through his efforts that L-P became the
region's fourth largest producer. One of
his most successful strategies concerned
sales overseas. Whereas many grandes
marques use other firms to import and sell
their champagnes in export markets,
Laurent-Perrier has always preferred to
tackle that job internally. This has permitted the house to have intimate relationships with overseas clients, while also
offering more affordable prices.
Many Champagne houses can lay claim
to popularizing an idea here or there, but
Laurent-Perrier has been very innovative
on a number of fronts. Their tte-de-cuve
"Grand Sicle" was first released in 1957
and remains one of the few multi-vintage
prestige cuves. Back then, as well as
now, most such cuves are the product of
a single vintage. Laurent-Perrier's "Grand
Sicle" is a blend of three vintages, adding another layer of complexity to the
final product.
When it comes to ros, they have produced one of the most consistent top
quality champagnes in the market. Using
the saigne method, L-Ps ros is an archetype of the style and is priced reasonably
well compared to its counterparts. Laurent-Perrier is also noteworthy for introducing a bone-dry, non-dosage Champagne into the market, a style that has
become increasingly popular some thirty
years after it was re-introduced.
Despite the wide variety of signature wines

that have given Laurent-Perrier its reputation, it has been the chardonnay grape that
has defined its overall style. LaurentPerriers non-vintage cuve has the highest
percentage of chardonnay among all those
made by the grandes marques. Save for their
stunning ros, the strong chardonnay component of their wines defines the house
style, and you can expect finesse and elegance across their portfolio.
NV Brut Ros "Cuve Ros"

100% pinot noir. Made from the saigne process. The pinot comes from ten different grand
cru vineyards. This bottling shows a pure expression of fruit at the core of the bouquet with
beautiful aromas of sweet red fruits. This fresh
bottling highlights tightly wound cherry and
strawberry that are of medium weight, with the
palate ending in a soft, concentrated finish.
This consistently top notch ros is captured in
a unique reproduction of a 17th century bottle.
2002 Brut Millesime

NV Brut "Brut LP"
pinot noir. Pale straw color with a very active
bead. Bright and forward aromas of crisp apple
leap from the glass, combining nicely with
other fresh fruit flavors. On the palate, orchard fruits give way to chalky minerals, tapering towards an elegant finish. A beautiful
interpretation of an elegant chardonnay-based
Champagne, this is clean and focused with
real character. One of the top NV cuves from
the grandes marques in this report.
(L63PV381146) 93+ points Chuck Hayward
NV Brut Nature "Ultra Brut"

55% chardonnay, 45% pinot noir. Pale straw
color. The flavors and palate presence are understated and delicate. The core of the wine
has a pleasant and subtle texture, the acidity
is low and the finish fades away softly. Lemon,
other citrus, and nuts are subtly interwoven
aromas, followed by delicate yet zippy flavors
of citrus, nuts and toast. This is a lighter yet
very precise non-dosage cuve that is a bit
more delicate compared to other "extra bruts"
in this report. 92+ points Chuck Hayward
33
Golden straw in color with a persistent yet

subtle bead. Aromas of roasted nuts form the
foundation of the bouquet and are supplemented with spicy dried lemon and spearmint notes
and the barest hint of fresh mushroom. The
palate starts with a subtle entry and builds
towards a light to medium weighted midpalate
and then tapers off to a finish which mimics the
attack. With the structure of the flavors being
somewhat, notes of toasted brioche and understated citrus are highlighted. Tightly wound at
this point, a few years under cork should see
this bottling gain richness and texture.
L4303290Q 93+ pointsChuck Hayward
1998 Brut Rose "Grand Siecle

Cuve Alexandre"
80% pinot noir, 20% chardonnay made
through the saigne process. Pale salmon in
color, aromas of soft cherries are delicate and
subtly fragrant. These qualities carry through
to the palate where the purity and precision of
the cherry flavors are clearly evident. The finish shows incredible length as discreet earthy
textures mingle with the lingering fruit. This
is a cuve that chooses elegance over power. Yet
there is no denying the statement made by the
fresh and vibrant flavors, leaving an impression that this could develop and gain richness
with some more time. (Disgorged 3/11) 94+
pointsChuck Hayward
LOUIS ROEDERER
Reims
Louis Roederer's fame is defined by two
things: land and Cristal, though not
necessarily in that order. Cristal,
Roederer's prestige cuve, is known
across the planet for defining the concept of luxury champagne. And owning
enough land to meet almost 70% of the
houses annual needs ensures they can
make that cuve when conditions are
ripe for it.
Family owned since 1827, Roederer is
now a significant player beyond Champagne, with extensive holdings in Bordeaux and a sprinkling of others areas
such as Portugal and California. But it is
the 540 acres of prime vineyards in
Champagne which have served as the
foundation for that growth. Besides the
value this land contributes to the balance sheet, Roederer also avoids the
volatility in grape prices that are currently affecting the market, as demand
for the best grapes continues to rise.
The Roederer style emphasizes elegant
fruit and subtle complexity, maintained
through fermentation in stainless steel
with a small percentage of oak matured
wines added for intrigue. At the same
time, winemaker Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon, with Roederer since 1989, has
avoided using malolactic fermentation
in order to preserve natural acidity and
increase Roederers aging potential.
In tasting through the portfolio, it was
clear that Roederer's touch with the
chardonnay grape is magical. Its place is
easily recognized in Roederers blends,
but with a solo appearance in the blanc
de blancs or as seen in the Cristal
(where it makes up 45% of the blend);
the wines reach stunning heights. Each of

those two wines has the incredible ability
to balance lightness and power and at the
same time offer up loads of complex flavors. Bar none, they set the standards for
Champagne in their categories.
it was clear that

Roederer's touch
with the chardonnay
grape is magical
NV Brut "Brut Premier"

pinot noir. Reserve wines between 2-5 years of
age make up about 10% of the blend. Light
straw color. The nose is marked by faint aromas of lemon rind. This medium bodied fizz
has a tighter palate presence made possible by
some zippy acids. Tightly focused flavors of
lemon zest continue on towards a lingering
finish. (L03428A111741) 91 points Chuck
Hayward
2004 Brut
30% chardonnay, 70% pinot noir. The bouquet in this release shows delicate scents of
fresh nuts and toast. A burnished palate of
caramel-wrapped fruit is the first impression.
Overall, the flavors are restrained and leave a
delicate whisper of texture on the palate. The
fruit is pretty straightforward with just a hint
of oxidative, woody character on the finish.
90+ points Chuck Hayward
34

100% chardonnay. From the grand crus of
Avize and Le Mesnil. 15% of the fruit aged in
oak and malolactic fermentation was prevented. Pale straw color. Finely honed aromas of
sweet chalk and fresh minerals are combined
with subtle notes of flowers and lemon zest.
This vibrant cuve is beautifully poised with a
perfectly balanced palate presence from entry
to finish. The purity of fruit here is exhilarating, with no oak or yeast impression. The finish is long, complex and focused. An elegant
wine that avoids the austerity associated with
other blanc de blancs. (L033312A100411) 95
points Chuck Hayward
2005 Brut Ros

30% chardonnay, 70% pinot noir. Made in the
saigne method with 20% of the wine matured
in oak. Light strawberry color with subtle
beading. Unusual for most saigne ross, this
is a subtly crafted wine with understated flavors and textures, lighter in expression, but
not so delicate that skin phenolics create bitterness. The palate is mellow and soft with a subtle presence on the palate and a delicate finish.
NICOLAS FEUILLATTE
Chouilly
Nicolas Feuillatte is the brand name
used by the Centre Vinicole de la Champagne, the largest growers' cooperative
in the region and from which the grapes
of some 4500 individual growers comprise 7% of Champagnes total acreage.
The best selections are used for the
Feuillatte label, currently ranked among
the top 5 Champagne houses by sales.
With all the history that surrounds
many houses, this co-op and its brand
are relative newcomers to the game.
Created in 1971, they purchased the
Feuillatte label from its namesake proprietor in 1986, some 17 years later.
Blancs. Nicolas Feuillatte has always had a

reputation as one of the best cooperatives
in the wine world, and the new releases
serve to seal that reputation.
The style of
Feuillatte is
one of balance
and precision
Feuillatte produces a wide range of

stylesfrom its bestselling "Brut Reserve", a non-vintage cuve, to the
Palmes d'Or and its iconic dimpled
bottle. Having worked at the Centre
Viticole since 1976, Feuillattes JeanPierre Vincentis places an increasing
emphasis on smaller production bottlings that push the stylistic envelope.
Among the new wine styles he has introduced is the "Brut Extrem", a zerodosage cuve, along with a barrel fermented blend of equal portions of chardonnay and pinot noir labeled "Cuve
225".
NV "Brut Reserve"
The style of Feuillatte is one of balance

and precision. Each of the cuves I tried
had a beautiful expression of fruit, and
were neither overwrought nor extreme.
At the same time, there was no sense of
dilution or excessive restraint across
their portfolio. The wines were of medium to medium-full weight with the fruit
component the most apparent quality.
The freshness and concentration in the
NV "Brut Reserve" caught my attention
along with the delicacy of the Blanc de
2004 Blanc de Blancs

meunier. The base vintage for this cuve is
fruit from the 2006 and 2007 harvest. A surprising performance, this best-seller showed
particularly well. Bright and clean with aromas of baked apples and fresh dough. Medium
-full bodied in weight, the palate emphasizes
creamy fruit supported by a firm backbone on
the long and concentrated finish. Fruit comes
first here, not yeast or doughy aspects, and the
cuve is all the better for it. (L032837) 92
pointsChuck Hayward
100% chardonnay. This cuve is tightly

wound and delicately framed with pristine
citrus on the nose along with gingery spice.
Medium-light in weight, focused flavors of
lime and lemon are apparent without autolytic
characters. While a bit short on the finish, this
classically styled blanc de blancs is perfect for
oysters. (L24588) 90 pointsChuck Hayward
35
NV Ros
60% pinot noir, 30% pinot meunier, 10%
chardonnay. A pale salmon color with restrained bubbles. The bouquet offers up notes
of subtle dusty spices more than fruit. Those
same spices appear on the palate, wrapped in
bing cherries. The stylistic emphasis here is on
subtlety and measured restraint, with a delicate fruity finish to complete the experience.
(L24587) 91 pointsChuck Hayward
1998 Palmes d'Or

50% chardonnay, 50% pinot noir. This ttede-cuve is aged on the lees for ten years before
it released to the market. The extended aging
gives this prestige wine its distinctive aromas
of fresh yeast and dough along with some honeyed citrus fruits. As the wine opens up, aromas of ripe pears and roasted nuts unfurl. The
soft entry does not prepare you for the explosively textured flavors on the back-palate.
Hard lemon candy combines with hints of
caramel to bring vibrancy to the quick finish.
A great food wine. (L22801) 93 points -Chuck
Hayward
PERRIER JOUET
Epernay
Perrier Jouet is another one of the Grand
Marques that has both benefitted and
been constrained by the iconic wine in
its portfolio, in this case the famous
"Flower Bottle". First released in 1969,
the design was modeled after a hand
painted bottle, designed by belle poque
artist Emile Galle, was discovered in a
closet some 60 years after it was crafted.
Today, this bottle ranks with Dom
Perignon and Cristal as one of the most
recognized prestige cuvee Champagnes
in the world.
Founded in 1811, Perrier Jouet is credited as the first house to explore the development of brut Champagne at a time
when most bubbly was sweet. The British market historically preferred a drier
style of fizz, and when Perrier Jouet
made it across the Channel, the house
became a roaring success. Just over a
century later, however, family ownership was relinquished to corporate entities and the winery has since changed
hands five times in the last 50 years. In a
region where knowledge and traditions
have been passed down through the
centuries, frequent changes in ownership can be of little help.
Since Pernod-Ricard took over the winery in 2005, there have been a series of
moves aimed at streamlining the lower
tiers of Perrier-Jouet's portfolio while
increasing the attention on the "Flower
Bottle" franchise (for example, by adding a blanc de blancs bottling to the brut
and rose cuvees). A number of tiers
have been consolidated or eliminated
and efforts have been made to bring
new focus to the "Grant Brut" bottling,
the winery's classic non-vintage cuvee.
The renewed focus on the "Flower Bot-
tle" was a sound decision, as it is an excellent tete-de-cuvee. Closer in style to Dom

Perignon, the style here is not one of extract, power or wood. Rather, the cuvee's
high percentage of chardonnay ensures
that the wine has a precise, focused presence on an elegant frame. This is a wine
with proven potential to improve with
time in the cellar.
Going forward, this

bottle will be known
to the American market as it is to the rest
of the world: La Belle
poque.
A recent change to the labeling of the
"Flower Bottle" should be mentioned here.
This bottling, known throughout the
world as "La Belle poque" had been labeled "Fleur de Champagne" for the
American market at the request of the
importers. In an effort to harmonize the
marketing, the "Fleur de Champagne"
label was discontinued in 2004. Going
forward, this bottle will be known to the
American market as it is to the rest of the
world: "La Belle poque. Despite rumors
to the contrary, the wine was one and the
same, with no difference in the substance
of the two labels.
NV Brut "Grand Brut"

pinot noir. Pale straw hue, with ripe apple
aromas that mingle with earthy, loamy notes
that continue on the palate. With its round
texture, the midpalate centers on fruit, finish-
36
ing on a solid, foursquare frame, with spice

and mineral notes that linger. Enjoy 20122015. 89 points Chuck Hayward
2004 Brut Cuvee Belle poque

The delicate yet focused bouquet highlights
aromas of toasty citrus along with hints of
yeast and popcorn. Light-medium bodied, the
firm palate highlights dried apples and pears
mingled with hints of sweet spice. As the flavors develop towards the backpalate, the textures turn round and viscous with a finish
that is both soft and fruity as it lingers pleasantly. 92 points Chuck Hayward
PIPER-HEIDSIECK
Reims
Of the three Heidsieck properties in
Champagne, Piper-Heidsieck has the
most visibility in the US market. The
company garnered some impressive
sales based primarily from its PiperHeidsieck Extra-Dry Champagne, which
built up the winery's image as much as
"White Star" did for Mot & Chandon.
And like Mot, it has been difficult to
expand the winery's profile beyond the
shadow of that one product.
Producing almost half a million cases
per year, Piper-Heidsieck is a true negociant. They own no vineyards and must
depend on contracts with growers to
meet all production needs. Under the
ownership of the Rmy Martin conglomerate, the winery has been given
enough funds to gather the necessary
fruit and equipment, but critics concede
that it is winemaker Regis Camus who
has been the driving force in reviving
the fortunes of the house. Also steering
the wheel at sister winery Charles
Heidsieck, Camus has refined and focused the efforts at both houses by creating clear and distinct styles for each.
While the grandes marques leave the impression that they are too big to innovate, Piper has done just that with the
introduction of a compelling demi-sec
cuve and a fascinating reinterpretation
of the standard ros champagne. Like
all wineries who want their prestige
cuve to reach great heights, Piper has
attempted and succeeded at climbing
that mountain.
Made only seven times since its introduction in 1976, the "Rare" is indeed
thatrare in quantity and extraordinary
in quality, with the 1999 representing one

of the best wines tasted during my research
for this report. It stands as proof that to
dismiss the grandes marques is to do so at
your own peril.
NV Brut
pinot noir. 15-20% of the blend is comprised
of reserve wines. Forward aromas of roasted
apple and bright juicy fruit straddle scents of
toast and yeast. Round and textured on the
palate, the soft fruit flavors are propelled by
low acidity, creating an eminently quaffable
style. Impressively textured. Tasted twice.
92+ points Chuck Hayward
NV Ros "Cuve Sublime"

pinot noir. A demi-sec style, sweetened by
using a dosage about four times sweeter than
for brut Champagnes. Forward aromas of
mango, ripe pear and other tropical fruits
distinguish this cuve. This is a very balanced
demi-sec with confectionary flavors to go
along with the ripe fruit. Not cloying at all
thanks to some fine acidity, this balanced
Champagne is a perfect match with spicy
Asian cuisine. A big surprise in this lineup.
2003 Brut Ros "Ros Sauvage"

pinot noir. Another unique Champagne made
by wnderkind chef de cave Regis Camus, he
added 20% pinot noir still wine to the blend,
almost double the average. The result is a very
deeply colored ros with forward aromas reminiscent of gamay, with hints of fresh earth
lying underneath. Medium bodied with a soft,
fruity finish that hints at viscosity, the finish
is clean and dry. A stylish ros in every way.
37
1999 Brut "Cuve Rare"

70% chardonnay, 30% pinot noir. Interestingly, the chardonnay component for this blend
comes from the Montagne de Reims, better
known for growing pinot noir. The bouquet is
incredible, a never-ending mlange of lemon
blossom, tropical fruit, and sweet spice. Enticing and alluring, the aromas are seamless and
integrated. Citrus, sweet yeast and toast, along
with subtle honey notes, glide across the palate, which shows just a hint of firmness at the
finish. Like the best Champagnes, this cuve is
flavorful, showing power and an ethereal lightness at the same time. Rocking! 97 points
Chuck Hayward
POL ROGER
Epernay
Pol Roger is one of the world's most
beloved Champagne houses and much
of that has to do with one man. Christian Pol-Rogers worldly travels have
been instrumental in building awareness of his brand and establishing relationships in many markets. Urbane and
witty with a sly grin, he has worked
ceaselessly to promote Pol Roger and
the sales have followed accordingly.
Pol Roger also benefitted from having
Winston Churchill as one of the firm's
most prestigious patrons. Introduced to
Sir Winston back in 1906 when only
vintage Pol Roger Champagne was sold
to the British market, Churchill drank
the stuff daily and was so besotted with
the house that he named one of his racehorses after the house. The respect was
mutual. After his death, the Cuve Sir
Winston Churchill was formulated as
the tte-de-cuve, with a robust structure
as the statesman preferred.
In fact, the wines of Pol Roger were beloved in England since the early 20th
century, where the preferred style was
bold flavor paired with a firm, dry finish. This required a significant proportion of pinot noir to absorb the role of
oak fermentation and aging. Over the
years, Pol Roger has adapted its wines
to reflect the changing global markets.
The style has shifted towards a more
elegant approach, and Pol Roger has
responded by using stainless steel for
fermentation and increasing the chardonnay portion in the blends. Pol Roger's Blanc de Blancs remains the gem in
the portfolio, showing off the grape's
flavors to perfection.
NV Brut "Brut Reserve"

pinot noir. About 25% of this cuve comes
from stock of reserve wines. Light yellow gold
color. Subtle aromas of spiced apple and citrus
candy are followed by light floral notes. Medium-full bodied, there is plenty of texture, with
lightness on the midpalate. Dried apricot,
citrus rind and hints of quince form the foundation of this wine's flavors. A robust Champagne, this cuve still maintains a sense of
elegance, ending in a snappy firm finish.
(L012517) 92 points Chuck Hayward
100% chardonnay. Grapes are sourced from

five of the seven chardonnay grand crus in the
Ctes des Blancs. Golden straw in color. Forward aromas of buttered toast, apple and lemon blossom combine with an intensely flavored
palate that shows firm structure. The chardonnay fruit here is ripe, full bodied and textured
and shows real presence on the back-palate.
The finish is nutty and round, developing
viscosity as the wine opens up. A fuller styled
blanc de blancs, this vintage is starting to fill
out and gain its textbook richness. 94 points
Chuck Hayward
2000 Brut
40% chardonnay, 60% pinot noir. Pale gold
color. Moderately intense aromas of brioche,
spice and fruit make up the primary aromas for
this cuve. Structured on the palate with firm
acids that add a bracing component to the
crisp, lemony finish. 90 points Chuck Hayward
2004 Ros
the wines of Pol

Roger were beloved in England
since the early 20th
century, where the
preferred style was
bold flavor paired
with a firm, dry
finish
38
35% chardonnay, 65% pinot noir. Still pinot

noir of 15% is added to the blend. Pale salmon
color. Subtle aromas of earth, cherry and dusty
spice are apparent. This is a light- to mediumbodied Champagne with a delicate center of
strawberry and a fruity finish that is feather
soft. 92 points Chuck Hayward
POMMERY
Epernay
Pommery is one of the largest of the
grandes marques houses, yet its presence
in the American market has never been
on par with its global stature. Originally
part of the Louis Vuitton corporate
Champagne structure, Belgian wine
conglomerate Vranken purchased Pommery along with Heidsieck Monopole in
2003. The company then installed Thierry Gasco as, amazingly only the 9th
person to hold this position in Pommerys history. Gasco has proceeded to
revitalize the house, starting with their
basic non-vintage cuve.
NV Brut Royal
NV Brut Ros

pinot noir. Blended from 40 different crus,
Pommery's main cuve exhibits a golden color. Very intense aromas of pear jump out of
the glass, while hints of toast and bread are
content to lie underneath. Fairly full bodied,
the palate has broad texture with spice and
hard lemon candy, along with baked apple and
pear. The emphasis here is on fruit, with a rich
and round finish that is creamy and soft. Very
good quality for a basic NV cuve. 93 points
Chuck Hayward

pinot noir. 5% still pinot from the village of
Bouzy is added to the blend. The color is a very
subtle shade of salmon. Aromas of red berries
mingle with fresh bread. A lighter style of ros
in both flavor and body, the flavors of dried
fruits dominate with a soft and delicate finish.
One of the largest land holders in

Champagne, Pommery still relies on a
coterie of dedicated growers to supply
their needs. Gasco has refocused the
house style by incorporating more chardonnay in recent years and avoiding
any use of oak in fermenting or aging of
the cuves. The goal is to move away
from the heavy, yeasty style of the past
and bring forth a fresher and more elegant profile.
The new Pommery style is encapsulated
in the recent releases of Pommery's
"Brut Royal." The quality of this Champagne has improved leaps and bounds
by bringing forth textures that emphasize fruit over the autolytic qualities of
yeast and toast. Rich yet approachable,
this is one of the top non-vintage cuves
from the big Champagne houses and is
a sure-fire winner for drinking for any
occasion, any time of year.
NV Brut Blanc de Noirs

80% pinot noir, 20% pinot meunier. Grapes
from ten crus are used in this cuve. Yellow
gold in color, there's an active bead here. The
restrained nose shows delicate aromas of sandalwood which later appear on the palate along
with stone fruit flavors. Medium bodied, this
cuve is more suited to the dinner table than as
an aperitif. (L35273) 90 points Chuck Hayward
1999 "Cuve Louise"
NV Brut "Apenage"
pinot noir. Blended from Pommery's top
twenty cru vineyards. Straw gold, this is
lighter in color than the "Brut Royal". The
nose here is restrained, with aromas of toasted
breads and brioche along with yeast. The palate follows the lead of the bouquet with a compact, linear profile featuring high-toned citrus
and fresh lime. The finish here is soft and delicate. (L00969) 91 points Chuck Hayward
39
60% chardonnay, 40% pinot noir. Grapes

from the crus of Avize, Cramant and A.
Named after Louise Pommery, who is said to
have coined the term "brut" when dry Champagne came into fashion. Very good effervescence, the high toned and pure aromas of dried
fruits and nuts is most present, quite different
from the juicier fruit style of the "Brut Royal".
Flavors of marzipan and dried apricots combine with aromas of fresh cut sandalwood. Of
medium weight in body, the flavors fan out
across the palate towards a finish displaying
dried apricots and toast. (L91805) 92 points
Chuck Hayward
SALON
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Salon has gained its sterling reputation
and cult status for a multitude of reasons. For one, the house produces very
little wine, only about 5000 cases for
each release. In addition, wine is only
made in declared vintages, so that only
39 vintages have been produced since
1921. In those other years, the fruit goes
to Delamotte, Salons sister winery next
door. Finally, the house makes a unique
style, composed of 100% chardonnay
from just one grand cru village. In fact,
it was the first blanc de blancs Champagne ever made.
In a region where Champagne houses
span centuries, Salon is relatively new
to the scene with the first production
occurring less than 100 years ago. At the
time, most Champagne was a blend of
red and white grapes, which resulted in
wines with body and texture. Founder
Eugene-Amie Salon was looking to
make a lighter style. When constructing
his first vintages, Salon found that vineyards in the village of Le Mesnil in the
Ctes des Blancs were capable of producing the desired ripeness and acidity
while maintaining delicacy. Those same
twenty vineyards are still used in making today's cuves.
The goal at Salon is to show the chardonnay fruit as cleanly as possible, without
excessive manipulation. Accordingly, there
is no wood influence during fermentation
or maturation at any point in the process.
Malolactic fermentation is also avoided to
preserve acidity and retain the elegant profile that is the hallmark trait of Salon. The
style here is one of purity, focus and delicacy, rather than richness and overt textures.
Given Salon's concentrated fruit and acidity, older vintages often gain some weight
and color, but will still be more subtle than
many of its counterparts.
The goal at Salon

is to show the chardonnay fruit as
cleanly as possible,
without excessive
manipulation
40
1997 Brut
100% chardonnay. From fruit grown in the
grand cru village of Le Mesnil. Very subtle
bead and light straw in color. The bouquet is
gentle and refined. With some coaxing, aromas of citrus zest and sea shell appear, followed by fresh yeast and caramel. With more
time, fresh scents of brioche emerge, along
with a hint of pepper. Elegantly profiled and
delicate on entry, the core of the wine is clean
and bright with subtle flavors of citrus and
spice. There's a bit of weight on the palate but
this is more subtle than powerful. Integrated
acids create tension and focus the palate towards a tight and compact finish. 94 points
Chuck Hayward
1999 Brut
Pale straw hue with a persistent bead. The
understated bouquet is closed and tight, with
a more restrained than what is to be found on
the palate. Apple and pear nuances make up
the textured entry, which shows some breadth
across the middle. With precise balance alongside moderately ripe flavors, there's a fine
underpinning of chalky minerals along with
pinpoint notes of white pepper and spice on
the lingering finish. This is a riper, broader
textured vintage compared to the more elegant
and focused 1997. 5 g/l dosage. Enjoy 20122018. 95 points Chuck Hayward
TAITTINGER
Reims
Taittinger was one of the last familyowned grandes marques to be sold to one
of the multinational corporations that
populate the Champagne industry.
However, when the Taittinger family
secured enough money to purchase
back the winery in 2008, the locals rejoiced. In a region where the history is
highlighted by an unending list of wineries and vineyards traded back and
forth over the centuries, the return of
the Taittinger family was certainly a feel
-good story for champagne.
For a winery that has great name recognition across the planet, it was a surprise to learn that the house's history
began in earnest only after World War
II, especially given that one of the winery's treasures is its 4th century cellar.
Carved out of chalk by the Romans,
these ancient rooms have a conical
shape and are spread about haphazardly beneath the more recently constructed offices (built in the 13th century).
Taittinger prides itself as being a house
which cherishes chardonnay's role in
the final blend. The family's extensive
land holdings of 750 acres are also an
important family heritage but surprisingly, only 35% of their vineyards are
planted to their beloved grape. Consequently, they are obligated to purchase
chardonnay from other growers. Given
the house's preference for that variety,
the portfolio of wines leans towards a
more delicate expression without any
influence from oak.
NV Brut "La Francaise"
2004 Brut Vintage Ros

pinot noir. Yellow straw in color with pronounced aromas of roasted apple and honeyed
toast in the background. This cuve is medium
bodied in weight with flavors of baked fruits
and notes of brioche on the back-palate. While
there is some texture on the midpalate, it
tightens up on the finish creating a firm and
elegant ending. (L0154NA04200) 91 points
Chuck Hayward
50% chardonnay, 50% pinot noir. All the

grapes are from grand cru vineyards. This
freshly disgorged bottle shows very subtle
aromas of lemon rind with fresh, loamy earth.
The initial entry on the palate is delicate and
leads towards light-medium weight texture
later on. The finish is subtle and fades away
gently. The overall impression here is one of
elegantly framed flavors from beginning to
end. Not for those looking for viscosity in their
NV Brut Ros "Prestige Ros"

30% chardonnay, 70% pinot noir. The ros is
made by adding still pinot noir wine from
Ambonnay and Bouzy to the blend. Pale cherry color. The nose is dominated by scents of
dark cherry, along with earthy pinot fruit. A
bit of smoke, pepper and clove lie underneath
the fruit aromas. A mellow entry leads to a
delicate core of fruit on the midpalate. Light
on its feet but in no way subtle or extracted,
the finish is short and soft. 91+ points
Chuck Hayward
NV Brut "Prelude"
50% chardonnay, 50% pinot noir. This newly
introduced cuve from Taittinger is made
entirely from grand cru fruit. The chardonnay
is from the crus of Avize and Le Mesnil-surOger in the Ctes des Blancs while the pinot
noir is sourced from the Montagne de Reims
crus of Ambonnay and Bouzy. Golden straw
color. This offers notable aromas of honeyed
toast, ginger and yeast. There is a soft, round
presence of medium weight fruit conveying
the aromas onto the palate. This cuve ends up
with a feathered, soft finish that is subtle and
delicate. 90+ points Chuck Hayward
41
2004 Brut Ros

"Comtes de Champagne"
30% chardonnay and 70% pinot noir. 100%
grand cru grapes make up this blend with 12%
still pinot added to the base wine. Pristine and
focused aromas of cherry and strawberry emanate from this pale strawberry colored cuve.
Like its Brut counterpart, this ros is also delicate and elegant with crisp red berry and cherry flavors. The dry finish picks up spice then
gently fades. 94 points Chuck Hayward
THE MINI-MARQUES
Small size, but large stature
While the bulk of Champagne is made
by the larger houses, there are a number
of other operations that resemble the
grandes marques. They are usually smaller in size, more focused in their grape
sources, and their Champagne style is
often more precisely defined with higher quality fruit making up the backbone
of their cuves. Many are owned by the
same multinational companies that own
the grandes marques. Yet these labels
operate in a space between the grandes
marques, who produce higher quantities
and are more well known, and the
grower champagnes, who make much
less and are relatively new to our
shores. No name really exists for this
important segment of the market, so I
have decided to call them the "minimarques."
Mini-Marques
Reviewed:
Because these houses are smaller in size,

they usually require more effort to locate. In many cases, importers and distributors have determined that it is uneconomical to promote and sell them. In
addition, because these properties
choose to make Champagne according
to their historical or personal vision,
retail or restaurant buyers may decide
not to carry a specific bottling if they
think it does not meet the needs of their
clients.
Alfred Gratien
Ayala
Billecart-Salmon
Canard Duchene
Delamotte
Devaux
Drappier
However, it is exactly because these

properties come from unique locations
and produce champagnes of a personal
nature, that they deserve your consideration.
Gosset
Phillipponat
Thienot
Vranken
42
ALFRED GRATIEN
Epernay
Michael Edwards, in his excellent book
The Finest Wines of Champagne, calls Alfred Gratien "the most rigorously oldfashioned Champagne house of the oak
school." Indeed, the house has devoted
itself to adhering to tradition as much as
possible, maintaining barrel fermentation and hands-on rather than mechanized cellar practices. As the fourth generation at Gratien, Nicolas Jaeger is
partly responsible for that, along with a
winemaking heritage that stretches back
to 1864.
In another nod to traditional winemaking techniques, all of the vintage Champagne is aged under cork rather than
crown seals while the wine lies in the
cellar before disgorgement. While more
time-consuming, this enhances the autolytic character in the wine which is responsible for a champagnes body and
texture on the palate. Gratien is also
unique in using a large portion of pinot
meunier in their cuves which adds
additional body and richness.
Given the heavy reliance on barrels and
the strong presence of pinot meunier,
one might expect these champagnes to
show heavy textures paired with excessive toast and yeast characteristics. Not
so. Across the board, each wine showed
a striking balance between power and
refinement. These are intensely flavored
champagnes that never seemed ponderous or overwhelming, thanks to the lift
provided by chardonnay. Absence of
malolactic fermentation retains the
freshness of the base wines natural
acidity, bringing elegance to the finish.
While the house depends on fruit from a

number of growers, most have worked
with the winery for many generations, and
the quality level of Gratien is often compared to that of the top grower champagnes. This house deserves your attention.
NV Brut Classique
meunier. The fruit from the 2005 harvest comprised the foundation of this release, with
about 15% reserve wine added. Pale straw
color. Subtle but intense aromas of fresh yeast,
toast and biscuits are fresh and focused. Rich
flavors of dried fruits dominate this fairly full
bodied cuve which finishes with bold, concentrated richness while maintaining elegance
and lightness. A complex and flavorful wine
that perfectly captures the Gratien house style.
(Disgorged May 2009, L3399341) 92+ points
Chuck Hayward
NV Cuve Paradis"
meunier. Aged 6 years on the lees, this release
is from the 2002 vintage, but is not labeled as
such. Slightly more saturated straw color than
the NV Brut Classique. Subtle but intense,
high-toned aromas of delicate citrus notes intermingle with scents of fresh yeast. A more
elegant statement is made here with a somewhat lighter palate profile, this wine nevertheless shows clean, complex flavors of citrus and
toasted nuts at first. Richness kicks in later,
with citrus marmalade appearing on a long
finish. Another excellent example of intensity
that is not burdensome. (L3388325) 93+
NV Ros Cuve Paradis

meunier. Aged 6 years on the lees, this is from
the 2002 vintage but is not labeled as such.
Pale salmon color with a delicate bead. Like the
NV Classique Ros, the aromas are more about
fresh yeast than pinot fruit. The palate, however, has big pinot noir presence, with intense
bright cherry flavors that belie expectations
given the lighter color. The kirsch qualities are
concentrated and deep, almost viscous in texture. (L3399209) 94 points Chuck Hayward
1999 Brut Vintage
NV Classique Ros
meunier. The base vintage for this cuve is the
2005 and about 9% red still wine from Bouzy
is added to the blend. Pronounced biscuity
nose along with fresh yeast notes belie the ripe
and powerful fruits that come through on the
palate. There is a juicy, primary cherry laced
fruit component that builds in complexity
across the palate, accompanied by additional
notes of toast. The finish here is thick and
concentrated. (L3399209) 91+ points
Chuck Hayward
43

meunier. Pale straw color with delicate and
subtle autolytic character, along with lemon
verbena and Kaffir lime. The attack here is
light but the flavors quickly build in intensity
and power. Citrus marmalade flavors appear
later, concentrating pleasantly on the back
palate. Again, the hallmark traits of structure
and weight are balanced with a refined elegance. (L33910055) 94+ points Chuck Hayward
AYALA
Ay
NV Brut Zero Dosage "Nature"
The house of Ayala can trace its roots

back to 1860 when Edmond de Ayala
received vineyards and a chateau as
part of his dowry upon marriage. Subsequent years were tumultuous for the
house, as the chateau was destroyed
during the Champagne riots and the
estate later sold at auction during the
Great Depression. More recently, the
house changed ownership twice in the
last decade.
Despite all the upheaval in the commercial office, the winemaking reins have
held steady for some time, with Nicolas
Klym as chef de caves for over 30 years.
Under the new regime, Ayala is dependent entirely on purchased fruit,
allowing Klym to take this opportunity
to revise his approach towards the portfolio. One of the stronger trends in todays Champagne market is the move to
lower, or even zero, dosage additions to
the wine prior to bottling, and all the
wines at Ayala are now following this
approach. The results are wines of delicacy and subtlety.
45% pinot noir, 30% chardonnay and 25%

pinot meunier. This is almost the same blend
as Ayalas classic brut but with no dosage.
Almost neutral color with a small, subtle bead.
Restrained aromas of fresh mushroom and
yeast dominate the elegantly stated bouquet
with little emphasis on fruit. The palate is
understated with a very delicate presence. A
subtle swell of flavor where the midpalate appears fades towards a delicate finish. Unlike
other brut nature wines, the traditional linear
palate presence or focused citrus flavors are
not to be found. Very subtle approach here. 90
pointsChuck Hayward
NV Brut Ros "Majeur"

NV Brut "Majeur"
40% pinot noir, 40% chardonnay and 20%
pinot meunier. Very little color and a small
persistent bead. Aromas of fresh yeast and
bread dominate the medium-weighted bouquet. The attack is subtle with a delicate midpalate of subtle lemon rind forming the spine
of the flavors. A little more richness is found
in the backpalate but the emphasis here is on
elegance with subtle yet pure fruit flavors. The
finish is feathery soft. 89 pointsChuck Hayward
44

meunier with 9% still pinot noir from old
vines at Mareuil-sur-Ay. Pale rose in color.
With subtle hints of desiccated berry and notes
of fresh earth and mushroom underneath, the
bouquet emphasizes restraint. Tempered hints
of fresh bread appear with some air. The palate
also reveals wisps of berry and crunchy cranberry, leading into a feathery finish that is soft,
delicate and understated. 90 pointsChuck
Hayward

100% chardonnay from the grand cru villages
of Le Mesnil, Chouilly and Cramant. Pale
straw color. Earth and sandalwood aromas are
subtle and form the foundation of this cuve's
bouquet. Focused and intense on the nose, the
palate is delicate with a core of citrus-infused
fruit forming the spine of the palate. There's
not much breadth of palate or focused intensity
here. The subtle fruit is pure and delicate with
a small increase in weight at the back. Unfortunately, the mushroom flavors at the core
leave a detracting presence on the palate. 88
pointsChuck Hayward
BILLECART-SALMON
Mareuil-sur-Ay
The house of Billecart-Salmon has carved
out a unique niche in the world of champagne, thanks to their ever-present nonvintage ros. For many drinkers of bubblynot just in America but across the
globethe ros is the wine that defines
Billecart. In fact, it was my introduction
to the category. You can imagine my surprise when I discovered the ros comprises just 20% of the production for the
house.
In just a few years, Billecart-Salmon will
celebrate their 200th anniversary, although the family has traced their connections to the village of Mareuil-sur-Ay
back two centuries prior to the founding.
Today, the winery owns enough vineyards (38 acres) to handle a small proportion of the wines they make, with fruit
from another 375 acres either leased or
managed. It remains family owned to
this day.
While the ros remains the cuve that
rings the bell for Billecart, a review of the
portfolio showed the important role that
chardonnay brings to their wines. Indeed, the blanc de blancs cuves proved
to be the most exciting wines I tasted
during their recent presentation.
liqueur notes. Very dry on palate with a narrowly focused frame, hints of lemon dominate
the attack as flavors gain weight towards the
backpalate and those spirity notes kick in.
Could use time for the disparate flavors to
marry. 91 pointsChuck Hayward
NV Brut Reserve
Same cepage as the Extra Brut but with 6 g/ltr
of sugar in the dosage. Pear and baked apple
make a restrained aromatic statement. This
bottling is more explosive with ripe and juicy
fruit flavors that dominate the round, medium
-bodied midpalate showing hints of pineapple
and banana. These soft textures taper towards
a spicy, citrusy finish that could use a bit more
concentration. 92 pointsChuck Hayward
NV Brut Ros
50% chardonnay, 30% pinot noir and 20%
pinot meunier with a small amount of still
pinot noir. Salmon in color, the bouquet highlights moderately intense aromas of dried berry mingling with hints of fruit cocktail syrup.
The round, rich and flavorful midpalate is of
medium-plus weight that continues towards
the back where the soft finish fades a touch too
quickly. The backpalate reveals concentrated
flavors of soft berry and cherry that form the
foundation of the understated finish. An elegant interpretation of ros here. 92 points
Chuck Hayward
NV Blanc de Blancs
NV Extra Brut
50% pinot meunier, 30% pinot noir and 20%
chardonnay. 60% of the cuve is from the
2008 harvest with the rest from 2006 and
2007. No sugar in the dosage. Focused, hightoned aromas of spice and pepper give way to
notes of sage with hints of mushroom peaking
through until the bouquet gets broader and
fruit aromas appear later with air. Much
broader on the palate than the nose indicates,
pronounced earth and hints of mushroom
combine as a spicy finish shows brandy and
100% chardonnay from the grand crus of

Mesnil, Cramant and Chouilly, entirely fermented in stainless steel. The discreet bouquet
emphasizes hints of earth and mushroom, not
fruit. Medium-weighted, intense and concentrated fruit flavors of dried pear mix with
notes of brioche. With an understated presence
on the palate, the soft finish is complex but
coiled in with flavors yet to unfurl. The finish
shows nice length and trades subtlety for power and breadth. 93 pointsChuck Hayward
45
2004 Extra Brut Vintage

70% pinot noir, 30% chardonnay entirely
from grand cru vineyards. Bottled with no
dosage. More base note aromas are found here
with attractive fresh bread/yeast notes and
none of the high-toned, citrus aromas as found
in the previous cuves. Medium-bodied in
weight with subtle flavoring, the soft attack
builds towards a moderately intense midpalate
composed of caramel/walnut flavors that gain
weight towards the finish. Overall, this is delicate at first with an emphasis on autolytic vs.
fruit qualities. A bit more length could see this
cuve sing. 93 pointsChuck Hayward

100% chardonnay. Pale with the barest hint of
color. Restrained aromas with hints of citrus
and brioche appearing underneath with aeration. Very attractive, mature flavors gain richness and momentum as the taste experience
moves towards the backpalate. Its there that
hints of brown sugar and caramel mix with
baked apple and pie crust adding their presence
to the rich finish. Drink soon to capture this
cuves freshness. 94 pointsChuck Hayward
2000 Brut Cuve Nicolas Francois

Billecart
60% pinot noir, 40% chardonnay. Colored
with just a hint of yellow straw, low-lying
fresh mushroom aromas are subtle yet focused.
The super attractive palate offers up a very
complex melange of spiced pear and apple flavors that are quite layered and complex; they
become finely taut towards the finish where
citrus notes kick in. Good texture offers a mixture of fruity and structural elements with a
focused and citrus-laden finish that is lengthy
and complex. Will go a few years and gain
breadth with some time on cork. 95 points
Chuck Hayward
CANARD DUCHENE
Ludes
Following the marriage of a local cooper
to a bride who hailed from a family of
grape growers in the region, this house
was founded in 1868. It remained under
family ownership until 1978. Then the
domaine was purchased by the Louis
Vuitton Moet Hennessy conglomerate,
which later sold it to Alain Thienot, a
banker who returned to Champagne
and started his own winery.
NV Brut "Grande Cuve Charles

VII"
55% pinot noir and 45% chardonnay from
grand cru and premier cru vineyards. Straw
colored with mild effervescence and a thin
mousse. Fresh yeast and bread aromas are the
first scents to reveal themselves. Elegantly
profiled, almond and crisp, dried pear form the
core of the palate. A bit more intensity at the
backpalate but overall, this is an understated
statement that emphasizes the delicate fruit
and toasty qualities. Not to say that this is
wimpy! (L853WA11) 93 pointsChuck Hayward
Located in the small town of Ludes in

the northern hills of the Montagne de
Reims, the portfolio emphasizes pinot
noir which finds superlative expression
in this region. The best wines are designated under the Charles VII label, a
French king who was crowned in the
cathedral of Reims. This premium line
of champagnes was first introduced in
1968 to celebrate the firm's centenary
and they represent excellent value.
NV Brut Ros "Grand Cuve

Charles VII"
50% pinot noir and 50% chardonnay. Vibrant
pink cherry in color with active effervescence
and a perfect mousse. Delicately scented at
first, pure aromas of high-toned cherry are
complemented with just a hint of earthy mushroom. The fresh fruit flavors swell up, highlighting crunchy cranberry and cherry. Perfectly balanced with just enough fruit to create
a textural statement, purity and brightness
emerge as the flavor concentration builds to a
fruity finish. Very complete, sophisticated and
quite a surprise. (L852VI14) 95 points
Chuck Hayward
46
DELAMOTTE
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
The year 2010 marks Delamotte's 250th
anniversary, an uncommon milestone in
the wine world. Despite being the sixth
oldest house in Champagne, Delamotte
is one of the least well-known, perhaps
due to the modest yearly production of
25,000 cases. What Delamotte is known
for, however, is its close relationship to
Salon, one of the most famous producers in the Ctes des Blancs. Both houses
are owned by Laurent-Perrier, and both
share a passion for the chardonnay
grape.
When Salon does not declare a vintage,
which has occurred 50 times in the last
89 years, the connection takes on even
greater implications. In those years, the
vin clairs from Salon's vineyards in Le
Mesnil are passed on to the cellars of
Delamotte, with the majority ending up
in Delamottes vintage champagne. To
maintain a noticeable stylistic difference
between the two properties, Delamotte
puts their wines through malolactic
fermentation in order to give the naturally acidic wines more roundness on
the palate. Salon, on the other hand,
prevents malolactic from occurring,
preserving the acidity necessary for
long cellaring.
NV Brut
NV Brut Ros
50% chardonnay, 30% pinot noir, 20%

pinot meunier. Pale straw hue with an
active bead. The understated bouquet
reveals subtle hints of citrus and sandstone. Bright and clean with a small kernel of baked apple at the core of the palate,
the light-medium bodied fruit presence
carries through to the finish. Fresh and
bright, there's a bit more complexity and
richness on the backpalate as the finish
fades softly. Enjoy 2012-2014. 91 points
Chuck Hayward
80% pinot noir and 20% chardonnay. The

pinot noir was macerated than co-fermented
with the chardonnay component and aged 4
years on the lees. With a moderately intense
bead and an orange tinged hue, the subtle bouquet of dried cherry and berry comes through
on the medium-bodied palate. There's a slight
increase in richness on the backpalate along
with a fine layer of tannins, which contribute
to a dry, firm finish. The dosage is 7 g/l. Enjoy
NV Blanc de Blancs
The chardonnay comes from the grand
cru villages of Cramant, Avize, Mesnil.
Very clear color, the restrained bouquet
initially highlights dried straw, chalk and
sandstone. Hints of earth and spice are
revealed later with some air. Showcasing
a palate that is more intense than the
bouquet, textured notes of dried apple are
accented by pear gain richness towards
the round backpalate. A finely honed
underpinning of minerality contributes to
some subtle, yet precise complexity on the
finish. Disgorged November, 2011. Enjoy

Pale straw gold hue. Pronounced and concentrated notes of toast, roasted nuts and caramel
dominate a bouquet that stresses autolytic
qualities over primary fruits. Broad swaths of
baked apple, brown sugar and baked pie crust
make up the medium-weighted palate with
even more texture appearing on the backpalate.
The fruit centered finish is moderately long
and dusted with notes of cinnamon and sandalwood. 8 g/l dosage. Enjoy 2012-2016. 92
1999 Brut Vintage

100% chardonnay from the grand crus of Avize, Le Mesnil and Oger. Fresh earth and notes
of caramel candy comprise the basic aromas.
The unique aromatic quality carries through
on the palate, where subtle talc-like textures of
chalky soil appear on the finish. Fairly full
bodied, there is some noticeable citrus in the
palate's core. 91+ points Chuck Hayward
Given the location of Delamotte in the

Ctes des Blancs, I expected their champagnes to clearly show the appellation's
traits of elegance and finesse on the palate. I was therefore surprised by their
richness, a result of the higher proportion of black grapes in the blend of the
basic non vintage brut. The vintage
Champagne is the more classic representation of the Ctes des Blancs and
clearly shows its viticultural heritage.
47
DEVAUX
Bar-sur-Seine
Devaux was founded in 1846 by Jules

and Auguste Devaux and remained
under family control for five generations. Augusta Devaux took over the
reins of the company upon the death of
her husband and worked tirelessly to
develop export markets. Facing a family
crisis without heirs to assume control,
the house was sold to a growers cooperative based in the Cte des Bar and
the company headquarters moved from
Epernay to the Domaine de Villeneuve
at Bar-sur-Seine in the Aube. Today, the
co-op is considered one of the more
forward-thinking of its type in Champagne.
NV Brut Grande Reserve
NV Extra Brut Cuve D L'Ultra"
70% pinot noir, 30% chardonnay with 20%

reserve wine aged in large oak casks added to
the blend. 80% of the cuve is from the 2006
harvest. Subtle aromas of lemon zest, fresh
toast and oyster shells dominate the bouquet
with a smattering of spice notes. The mediumweighted fruit presence is richer than what
might be expected given the relatively subtle
aromas , though there are round textures on
the midpalate and more delicate sensibilities on
the fringes. A hint of talc-like minerals appear
underneath the lemon fruit flavors and the
finish is soft and lingering thanks to some low
acidity. (Disgorged 2/11) 93 pointsChuck
Hayward

reserve wines that were barrel fermented. 60%
of the cuve is from the 2005 harvest, the remaining portion is reserve wines aged in large
oak casks. No dosage. Pale straw in color, the
focused and precise bouquet highlights chalky,
spicy aromas but not much fruit. The style of
this bone-dry cuve is more approachable without the taut, linear profile of other "Brut Zero"
examples. Here, a modicum of richness is on
the midpalate where understated fruit makes a
medium-bodied presence. Very pure but lacking a sense of precision due to the soft acidity,
notes of lemon zest mix with chalky, mineral
notes to form the foundation of the delicate
finish. I like the accessibility of this cuve.
(Disgorged 3/10) 94 pointsChuck Hayward
NV Brut Ros "Cuve Rose"

73% pinot noir, 27% chardonnay. 14% pinot
noir still wine added to the blend. 85% of the
cuve is from the 2006 harvest, the remaining
portion of the blend from reserve wines aged in
large oak casks. Pale strawberry/rose in color.
Subtle notes of earth and soft pepper spice form
the foundation of the bouquet. Explosive fruit
textures show up on the palate with flavors of
berry and cherry that are straightforward if
not overly sophisticated. The fruit stays rich
on the backpalate with a fruity finish that
makes this a quaffable wine. (Disgorged 2/11)
The company currently draws fruit

from 3700 acres of members' vineyards
which make up 5% of the total acreage
in Champagne. The pinot noir fruit is
picked from sites located throughout
the Cte des Bar region, while the chardonnay is harvested from vineyards
located there as well as in the Cotes des
Blancs. The prevailing style of the house
leans towards richer textures that reflect
the predominance of pinot noir grapes
as well as the warmer temperatures
found in the Aube.
NV Brut Cuve D La Cuve"

reserve wines that were barrel fermented. The
base of this cuve comes from the 2005 vintage.
Slight straw color with a steady bead. Complex
aromas of lemon rind are interspersed with
nutty/toasty notes. Broadly textured on the
palate, chardonnay-influenced flavors of pear
dusted with sweet spices such as nutmeg and
cinnamon slowly gain more presence towards
the backpalate. Thanks to the soft acids, the
finish is rich and mouthfilling. (Disgorged
12/10) 94 pointsChuck Hayward
NV Brut Ros Cuve D

still pinot noir added to the blend. Pale rose
with hints of orange. The bouquet offers up
hints of rose petals, fresh earth and a hint of
spice. While there is little fruit on the nose, the
subtle flavors of crushed berry linger though
they are missing complexity. With a bit more
concentration on the backpalate, the score
could improve. Overall, the flavor profile is
delicate and restrained while the finish fades
softly. (Disgorged 3/10) 91 pointsChuck
Hayward
48
DRAPPIER
Urville
Drappier's champagnes reflect the inherent qualities of their terroir perfectly.
The Cte des Bar is the southernmost of
the five major regions in Champagne.
Climatically, this area is warmer, which
makes it easier for grapes to attain ripeness and gives the resulting champagnes more forward flavors and aromas, as well as rich textures on the palate. Some 90 kilometers from the action
in Epernay and Reims, these southern
regions were often the source of riper
fruit for the grandes marques to blend
with the steely, linear wines made from
the Ctes des Blancs and the Montagne
de Reims.
Drappier is one of the largest estates in
the Aube, a subregion of the Cte des
Bar, where the winery has maintained a
longstanding reputation as a pinot noir
house. In the 1930s, they were one of the
first to uproot poor growing clones of
pinot, as well as gamay, which the
house viewed to be of lesser quality.
Most of the chardonnay required for
their blends comes from purchased
fruit. Drappier gained some notoriety in
France for being the preferred Champagne of Charles de Gaulle.
NV Brut Ros
Drappier has
maintained a
reputation as a
house that offers
very good quality
Champagne at
affordable prices
The color is a beautifully deep strawberry with

vibrant effervescence. Primary aromas of ripe
cherry, pepper and hints of earth are quite
pronounced and bring to mind youthful Burgundy. A ripe and forward style of ros, the
midpalate is bright and weightless yet finishes
in a crescendo of crisp cherry and berry on a
lingering finish. Integrated acids prevent the
wine from being ponderous. Delicious.
(LT652987) 95 points Chuck Hayward
NV Brut Blanc de Blancs

"Signature"
100% chardonnay. Forward and intense aromas of toast straddle rich, honeyed fruit suggesting that this will be a more luscious example of a blanc de blancs. This is confirmed on
the palate and this richly textured bubbly
shows its chardonnay component with authority. The flavors are ripe with hints of tropical
fruits. The round palate continues on to a rich
finish. A great value for those who like ripe
and rich fizz. 94 points Chuck Hayward
2000 Brut "Millsim Exception"

40% chardonnay, 60% pinot noir. A beautiful
light yellow-bronze sheen. Quite toasty with
intense and pure aromas of fresh mushroom,
honey and yeast underneath. Very full bodied
with mouth filling texture, the vintage trait of
nicely integrated acidity reins in the fruit and
prevents the wine from being ponderous or
viscous. The palate fades towards a delicate
finish of lemon scented fruit. (Disgorged July
2007) 93 points Chuck Hayward
Despite its erratic distribution in the US

market over the past twenty years,
Drappier has maintained a reputation as
a house that offers very good quality
Champagne at affordable prices. In
evaluating Drappier's current releases, it
is quite evident that many cuves over
deliver in the price-value department,
especially if you prefer a house style
that is rich and forward.
49
GOSSET
A
Gosset can lay claim to be being the
oldest wine house in the Champagne
region, although production of sparkling wine did not commence until a
few centuries after its establishment in
1584. Located in the village of A, the
house has always been proud of its history, which includes ownership of a
winery built by King Francis I. At that
time, the winery produced still reds
from neighboring vineyards. Today,
those same vineyards are in the grand
cru of A and noted for being some of
the best pinot noir in Champagne.
Following the winery's purchase by the
Frapin Cognac firm, Gossets fortune
has advanced considerably, especially
in recent years. With a new source for
funds available to the house, JeanPierre Mareigner has been able to recreate the portfolio and make more contemporary wine styles for the market.
While the "Brut Excellence" is a great
value for those who prefer a more
straightforward and robust champagne,
the three premium cuves packaged in
recreations of bottles that Gosset used in
the 18th century were a pleasant surprise. Each cuve offered balanced yet
intense flavors while maintaining a
sense of elegance and lightness. They
caught my attention and certainly merit
yours.
Each cuve offered

balanced yet intense
flavors while
maintaining a sense
of elegance and
lightness
NV Brut "Brut Excellence"

pinot noir. Deep straw in color. Active bubbles propel aromas of dried toast, buttered
brioche and honey mead. This cuve is robust
and firm with an intensely flavored presence
on the palate. Without being oaky, this cuve
is sculpted and structured, finishing with
nutty and spicy flavors. An excellent value.
NV Brut "Grande Reserve"

pinot noir. The fruit comes from premier and
grand cru vineyards sites. Reserve wines from
two other vintages (2003 and 2004) are added
to the 2005 that forms the foundation of this
release. A moderately intense bouquet of
young pear and apple is intertwined with dry
spice along with chalk and caramel. Yeast, raw
mushroom and lemon candy aromas appear
later. Light-medium in body with flavors of
spicy apricot and nuts. The wine's most attractive features are its elegance and balance.
Tasted twice. (L0157123) 94 points Chuck
Hayward
50
NV Brut "Grand Ros"

58% chardonnay, 42% pinot noir. Still wine
from the grand cru villages of Ambonnay and
Bouzy make up 7% of the blend, which is traditionally sourced from three vintages. Pale
salmon in color. The subtle aroma of tart dried
cherry brings to mind traditional Rioja producers like Muga. There is an attractive purity
on the medium weighted palate where fresh
and vibrant flavors of soft strawberry dominate. The finish is soft and lingers delicately.
Not thick or viscous like ros made through the
saigne process, this wine's light and ethereal
presence is quite attractive. (L8166101) 93+
1999 Brut "Grand Millsim"

56% chardonnay, 44% pinot noir. The fruit
comes from premier and grand cru vineyards
sites. Golden straw in color. Soy, shitake
mushrooms and buttered nuts dominate the
aromatics of this medium to full bodied cuve.
With some air, aromas of oyster shells come
forward. The palate impression is firm and
structured with a dry, nutty finish and viscous
lemon flavors mingling with nuts and caramel.
PHILIPPONNAT
Maureuil-sur-A
In a region steeped with history, Philipponnat can lay claim to having a richer
background than most. With roots
traced back to 1522, the family has made
its home in the southern portion of the
Montagne des Reims, an area renowned
for top notch pinot noir. For some time,
the winery languished under the ownership of the Marie Brizard liquor company, but it was recently purchased by a
wine corporation that has Lanson and
Bruno Paillard in its portfolio. The first
action they took was to lure Charles
Philipponnat from his position at Mot
& Chandon back to where it all began.
The focal point of the house is their
ownership of Clos des Goisses, an imposing vineyard located on the Marne
River. This 13.5 acre site is an incredibly
steep, south facing vineyard predominantly planted to pinot noir with some
chardonnay at the base and the crest of
the hill. The perfectly situated site receives exceptional exposure to the sun,
allowing for easy ripening of the fruit.
Long before Krug made their first single
vineyard Champagne from Clos des
Mesnil, a single cuve sourced solely
from the Clos des Goisses was being
made here. The house makes about
35,000 cases per year with less than a
thousand from the walled vineyard.
Nevertheless, a lot of Clos des Goisses
fruit finds its way into other cuves.
dosage at bottling preserves freshness and

elegance in the finished wine. Amongst
these tasty releases, the bone-dry "NonDose" was a highlight of the portfolio.
Many zero or non-dosage cuves can seem
stingy and austere, but this had just the
right amount of ripe midpalate fruit; a perfect foil for oysters.
The house style

here is full flavored,
incorporating a
large percentage of
reserve wines in the
final blend
NV Extra Brut "Non-Dose"

meunier. The base wine for this release comes
from the 2005 vintage. Deep straw color with
good effervescence. Faint hints of bread yeast,
toast and roasted nuts waft up in the bouquet.
A medium bodied wine, clean flavors of dried
fruits, apples and confections co-mingle with
citrus and the barest hints of toast and caramel. The pinot noir in this cuve provides the
weight and a bit of firmness to the finish. This
wine is bone dry and sees no dosage yet retains
a core of fruit to prevent an austere framework.
(Disgorged 9/09) 93 points Chuck Hayward
NV Brut "Royale Reserve"

meunier. This yellow-gold colored wine is
initially closed with subtle hints of bread yeast,
later yielding to aromas of rich caramel. The
palate shows rich and concentrated textures
due to the high percentage of pinot noir. Fairly
full bodied, the round and fruity midpalate
offers intriguing flavors of Bosc pear that continues towards a rich finish. (Disgorged 9/08)
NV Brut Ros "Reserve Ros"

meunier. About 8% of the wine is still pinot
noir, generally sourced from the Clos des Goisses vineyard. A darker salmon color combined
with subtle hints of dried berries form the initial impression. Deceptively flavorful given the
color, the rich strawberry notes are remarkable,
while ripe cherries frame the soft and delicate
finish. (Disgorged 9/08) 91+ points Chuck
Hayward
The house style here is full flavored,

incorporating a large percentage (2540%) of reserve wines in the final blend.
Given their strength in pinot noir, the
wines are balanced with chardonnay
sourced from other growers. Minimal
use of malolactic fermentation and low
51
THIENOT
Reims
In the slowly evolving world of champagne, the major players (i.e. the Champagne houses) are pretty much designated. Not as well known are the smaller grower champagnes, which isnt surprising given that there are 5000 such
producers in the region. But even in this
category, it is rare to see new entrants
into the market.
Amongst the grand marques, the larger
houses that belong to the Union de Maisons de Champagne trade organization, it
is even rarer to witness new domaines
starting an enterprise in Champagne.
Alain Thienot is one of the most recent
to begin such a venture, having constructed a state of the art facility in 1985.
Prior to that, he acquired land in the
grand crus of Ay and Mesnil-sur-Oger
in 1976. Although Alain had no prior
experience in winemaking, his father
and grandfather had managed a domaine and made bottles respectively
and therefore had extensive connections. The domaine consists of 67 acres
of which 15 are in the grand crus of Ay,
Mesnil and Avize as well as 17 acres of
premier cru plots.
NV Brut
NV Brut Ros

pinot meunier with 35% of the final blend consisting of reserve wines. Yellow straw in color,
there is a modicum of effervescence with just a
bit of mousse. Showing a forward and concentrated bouquet, rich aromas of cinnamon and
apple juice give an accurate indication of the
palate. There, the palate leans towards baked
apple along with tropical fruits such as pineapple and mango. Ripe and round at the core, the
backpalate and finish become firm and spicy.
(L1S3VJ19) 91 pointsChuck Hayward
45% chardonnay, 35% pinot noir, and 20%

pinot meunier. 7% of the blend is still red
wine from the grand cru of Ay. The bubbles
here are subtle leaving little mousse atop the
salmon pink color. The bouquet is fairly reticent with aromas of fresh yeast leading into
hints of sour cherry. Subtle at the attack, the
texture expands to fill the palate with dried
cherry and berry. The cherry flavors continue
towards the finish even as the textures firm up
at the back and taper to a lingering finish.
(L7522VG15) 92 pointsChuck Hayward
2002 Brut
1999 Brut "Cuve Alain Thienot"
50% chardonnay from the grand cru villages of

Avize and Mesnil-sur-Oger, 50% pinot noir
from the grand cru site of Ay and premier cru
villages of Hautvilliers and Rilly sur Montagne. Deep yellow straw in color with mild effervescence. The understated bouquet brings out
aromas of burnt toast and yeast while the palate
highlights the house style of full, rich textures
showcasing flavors of peach and baked apple.
The full-bodied core of the wine is soft but gets
firmer towards the backpalate as flavors of pie
crust appear. Subtle delicacy and elegance define the light and airy finish. (L101WD06) 92
pointsChuck Hayward
60% chardonnay from the grand crus of Avize

and Mesnil-sur-Oger. Yellow gold color with
subtle effervescence. Delicate aromas of roasted lemon, bread and toast make up the bouquet
for this tte-de-cuve. Tropical fruit flavors lie
at the core, but this wine is really about the
complexity that arises from the palates structure. Basically firm and spicy, the overall
impression is of freshness as the finish concludes with delicacy and elegance.
(L180U129) 93 pointsChuck Hayward
52
VRANKEN
Reims
The Vranken name may be new to those
who follow champagne, but that should
change in the near future. In terms of
sales, it is the second largest Champagne house. Belgian Jean-Francois
Vranken purchased Heidsieck Monopole and Pommery from luxury conglomerate LVMH in 1996 and has quickly set about reorganizing the brands in
his portfolio. As part of this project, he
has made Diamant Bleu, formerly the
tte-de-cuve of Heidsieck Monopole,
into its own winery line under the
Vranken name.
The Diamant Bleu bottling under
Heidsieck Monople was most notable
for the unique bottle shape designed by
Baccarat. Under LVMH, the brand lost
its place when the company focused on
its more popular luxury bottlings like
Dom Perignon and Clicquots La
Grande Dame. Vranken now intends to
rejuvenate the Diamant Bleu brand by
utilizing some of its large land holdings
and considerable marketing efforts to
increase the brand profile. And with this
lines current style of approachable, full
bodied richness with an emphasis on
ripe fruit, they are definitely on the right
track.
NV Brut "Diamant Bleu"
1999 Brut "Diamant Blanc"
50% chardonnay, 50% pinot noir. Forward

aromas of ripe lemon, hints of tropical fruit
and pastry breads indicate a riper style, while
rich textures of fruit and lemon cream dominate the flavors. Round, soft and lush on the
finish, a touch of acidity adds some elegance.
The fruit, not toast or yeast, is what stands
out in this bottling. (L0053734) 92 points
Chuck Hayward
80% chardonnay, 20% pinot noir from grand

cru vineyards. Deep straw color with good
effervescence. Aromas of toast combine with
spicy baked apple on the nose, while on the
palate, bread and toast take a back seat to flavors of mango and banana pudding which
linger on a feathery soft finish. Mouth filling
in texture, the fruit is concentrated and powerful yet has a touch more restraint when compared to the NV Diamant Bleu.
(L01898012) 91+ points Chuck Hayward
current style of
approachable,
full bodied
richness with an
emphasis on
ripe fruit
53
1999 Brut "Diamant Bleu"

50% chardonnay, 50% pinot noir from six
grand cru vineyards. An excellent bead with
straw gold color. An initially closed nose later
reveals hints of toasted muffins, grilled peaches
and other orchard fruits. This cuve is also full
bodied with a sophisticated, firmer presence of
lemon-drop candy and hints of citrus rind. The
finish is firm with notes of caramel.
THE GROWER CHAMPAGNES

Unique expressions, singular growers
There are literally thousands of growers
and small houses that populate the
Champagne region. Most are of varying
quality and their wines rarely leave the
country. But thanks to the efforts of pioneering importers such as Terry Theise
and a wine public hungry for new taste
experiences, the American market finally has access to a small number of top
quality grower-producers. Today, only
about 3% of the Champagne exported to
the US comes from this category, yet
their presence on the lists and shelves of
influential restaurants and retailers has
grown exponentially.
It is among these smaller properties
where new trends and approaches to
Champagne production and grapegrowing can be seen. Being free from
corporate pressures, the small growers
can experiment with different methods
and styles. The practice of inducing or
preventing malolactic fermentation and
fermenting in oak are now two popular
playgrounds for Champagne producers,
while better viticultural practices such
as organic and biodynamic farming
have gained traction because of the innovative efforts of these small growers.
rage and there are even champagnes being

produced from arbanne, pinot blanc and
petit meslierthree of the nine grapes permitted to be grown in the appellation.
Unlike the larger houses, non-vintage or
NV releases from these smaller properties
typically use a single vintage as the base
wine and build on that foundation with
lesser amounts of wine from other years.
Many estates cannot afford to keep large
stocks of reserve wines or choose not to do
so for stylistic reasons. Accordingly, the
vagaries of the vintage are much more apparent in many grower champagnes and
often, in the rush to get their product to
market, some wines can be a bit disjointed
if they arrive on our shores soon after they
are disgorged.
Despite all of this, there can be no denying
that grower champagnes have given us a
new perspective on what Champagne can
be and they have provided larger houses
the impetus to innovate and refocus their
portfolios. As the US market becomes more
familiar with the styles of the best producers and growers, we can expect their footprint to grow larger over the next few
years.
Growers Reviewed:
A. Margaine
Agrapart
Chartogne-Taillet
Coutier
Diebolt Vallois
Dosnon + Lepage
Fleury
Gardet
Gaston Chiquet
Henri Billiot
Henri Goutrobe
J. Lassalle
Jean Lallement
Jean Milan
L. Aubry
Larmandier-Bernier
Moutard
Mouss
Paul Bara
Grower champagnes can also highlight

distinct crus and terroirs of the region's
vineyards. Instead of the traditional
blending of various sites to create a consistent flavor profile vintage after vintage, many growers have chosen to
shine a light on specific villages and
vineyards. We are also seeing interesting champagnes made from just one
variety instead of the traditional trio of
chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot
meunier. Blanc de blancs are the current
Pehu-Simonet
Pierre Gimonnet
Pierre Pters
Rene Geoffroy
Saint-Chimant
Stephane Coquillette
Vazart-Coquart
Vilmart
54
A. MARGAINE
Villers-Marmery
Arnaud Margaine has run this small
domaine (just 4800 cases) since 1989,
becoming just the fourth generation of
the family to work the estate. When the
family started their business in the
1920s, their focus was on making still
wines. The bubbly portion of the business did not begin until the '50s.
Just about all of the fruit for Margaine's
champagnes come from vineyards in
the premier cru village of VillersMarmery, part of the Montagne de
Reims. The region is mostly known for
pinot noir but Margaine's holdings are
dominated by chardonnay. Indeed,
Veuve Clicquot has extensive plantings
in this cru and the chardonnay fruit is
particularly prized by the company for
its unique attributes.
NV Extra Brut
100% chardonnay from two lieu-dits in Villers-Marmery. Aromas of fresh yeast and
hints of mushroom are subtly woven into more
powerful scents of citrus rind and fresh walnut. The overall palate impression is one of
elegance and delicacy with an airy core of fruit
in the midpalate without much density or
concentration, only lithe flavors of citrus foam
atop a dry finish with talc-like chalky minerals. Light and fresh, this is not an austere
extra brut, showing just enough fruit. 92
pointsChuck Hayward
NV Brut "Cuve Traditionelle"

88% chardonnay, 12% pinot noir. Half the
wine is based on the 2008 vintage with the
remainder comprised of reserve wines. Pale in
color, the bouquet is quite restrained with the
barest hint of citrus and lime to be found. The
palate, however, is quite explosive with concentrated fruit expressions dominating the
backpalate. While the attack is quiet, powerful
flavors of Bosc pear dusted with nutmeg and
cinnamon spice compose the midpalate along
with notes of hazelnut and almond. The subtle
finish drops off a touch too quickly but the
core of fruit is very attractive. (Disgorged
1/11) 93+ pointsChuck Hayward
Arnaud Margaine
55

"Special Club"
100% chardonnay from Villers-Marmery. Pale
in color. Backward aromas of fresh butter
cream emerge along with subtle mushroom
and scents of warm cinnamon buns appearing
with air. This medium-bodied cuve shows
complex fruit flavors of baked apple and pear at
the backpalate. Those flavors are more subtle
than powerful as the palate progresses towards
a lingering, feathery finish that tails off nicely.
(Disgorged 1/11) 92+ pointsChuck Hayward
NV Brut Ros
80% chardonnay, 20% pinot noir, of which
12% is still pinot noir from 2002 and 2005.
Pale pink in color. The delicate nose shows
subtle notes of rose petal and mushroom but no
indication of fruitier scents. Approaching medium bodied fruit intensity, the palate initially
displays dried cherry and berry that gain intensity and richness towards the backpalate
where kirsch and maraschino syrup kick in.
The finish is firm and structured although a
bit short. (Disgorged 1/11) 92 pointsChuck
Hayward
AGRAPART
Avize
Family-run Agrapart, now in its fourthgeneration, has long been a favorite of
the San Francisco restaurant scene, with
Chez Panisse and Zuni Caf pouring
their various cuves as the house bubbly for over thirty years. Like many
estates championed by the restaurant
cognoscenti, Agrapart follows organic
vineyard practices and makes their wine
as naturally as possible.
This small estate produces only 5,500
cases each vintageminiscule by
Champagne standards. Located in Avize in the Ctes des Blancs, home to the
best chardonnay in the Champagne
region, the family owns 25 acres of vineyards across the area, including a number of grand cru sites. Their preference
is to make their top wines from their
60+ year old vineyards, with younger
vines designated for Agraparts less
expensive cuves.
Being from Avize, Agraparts Champagnes are chardonnay-based and they
wear that varietal badge proudly, producing elegantly structured wines defined by their minerality and tension
while delivering a pure expression of
fruit. Most of their base wines are fermented in old wooden casks and undergo malolactic fermentation. Given these
techniques, only the best fruit is used in
order to absorb the wood character
while maintaining the freshness and
vibrancy.
NV Brut "7 Crus"

Avize, Oger, Oiry, Cramant, and the premier
crus of Avenay Val dOr, Bergeres Les Vertus
and Mardeuil. This is a blend of 2008 and
2009 (the 2008 was aged in oak barrels). The
wine is cellared for three years before disgorgement. Very pale with a faint straw hue. The
open and pronounced bouquet has firm aromas of dried citrus, fresh yeast and toast that
evolves with aeration. The palate is initially
shy but soon gains breadth and texture. Medium bodied, there is a sense of firmness to the
dried herbs and citrus notes, which continues
on to the dry yet persistent finish. A focused
and refined style. 7 g/l dosage. Disgorged
March, 2012. Enjoy 2012-2016. 91 points
Chuck Hayward
NV Extra Brut "Terroirs"

Avize, Oger, Oiry, Cramant. This is a blend of
2007 and 2008, (the 2007 component was
aged in oak barrels). The wine is cellared for
four years before disgorgement. With an understated, tightly wound bouquet requires a
bit of coaxing before revealing note soft honey,
bread and fresh yeast. A small kernel of juicy
apple fades quickly towards the backpalate,
where the shape narrows. On the finish, a
delicate thread of fruit is complemented by
chalky minerality, leaving an austere and firm
impression. Showing a bit more fruit than the
56
"7 Crus" bottling, this cuvee maintains the

Agrapart style. 5 g/l dosage. Disgorged
March, 2012. Enjoy 2012-2016. 92 points
Chuck Hayward
2005 Extra Brut "Mineral"

100% chardonnay from the grand crus of Avize and Cramant. The average age of the vines
is 40 years old. The wine was fermented in a
combination of stainless steel and 600 liter
barrels and cellared for 5 years before disgorgement. Straw colored. Subtle fruit aromas allied
to hints of yeast lead into a round, broad palate. Emphasizing barely ripe apple and pear,
the intensity and texture slowly build towards
the backpalate. The mild core of pure fruit
feathers away on the dry finish, leaving behind
a final note of spice and yeast. 4 g/l dosage.
Disgorged May, 2012. Enjoy 2012-2016. 93
1998 Agrapart Brut "Mineral"

100% chardonnay from the grand crus of Avize and Cramant. The average age of the vines
is 40 years old. The wine was fermented in a
combination of stainless steel and 600 liter
barrels and cellared for 5 years before disgorgement. Straw colored. Subtle fruit aromas allied
to hints of yeast lead into a round, broad palate. Emphasizing barely ripe apple and pear,
the intensity and texture slowly build towards
the backpalate. The mild core of pure fruit
feathers away on the dry finish, leaving
behind a final note of spice and yeast.
Disgorged 2005. Enjoy 2012-2016. 93
CHARTOGNE-TAILLET
Merfy
With vineyards in the Montagne de
Reims village of Merfy, this small domaine of 11.5 hectares has a classic representation of the three main varieties,
plus a small parcel of arbanne. The soils
here do not reflect the best of Champagne, given that the chalk foundation
is covered with layers of sand and clay.
The product of a 1920 marriage that
brought two families together, the Chartognes landed in Merfy in 1870 while
the Taillet's have roots stretching back
to 1683. The domaine is now run by
Alexandre Chartogne who cut his chops
with acclaimed winemaker Anselme
Selosse.
Champagne was one of the first regions
to delve into biodynamics, largely due
to poor soils, exhausted of nutrients
following decades of pesticide use. Alexandre has freely adopted biodynamics in his vineyards, complete with the
ubiquitous horse, and is one of the first
to use concrete eggs for fermentation.
For fans of a taut, elegant style. 90+ points

Chuck Hayward
2006 Brut Millesime

100% chardonnay. The cuve is a blend of
fruit from the seven crus represented by the
family's vineyards. 85% grand cru, 15%
premier cru. Straw color. The nose showcases
subtle aromas of lemon rind, peach pit, and
other stone fruit. A classic introduction to the
house style, the palate is restrained, compact
and focused. Flavors of lemon intermingle
with nuts and toast, while the firm, dry finish
completes the experience. For fans of a taut,
elegant style. 90+ points Chuck Hayward
NV Brut Rose
60% chardonnay and 40% pinot noir from the
2008 vintage. Faded rose hue with flecks of
orange. The subtle bouquet scarcely provides a
hint of dried sour cherry, which defies the
2006 Brut "Cuve Fiacre"

100% chardonnay. The cuve is a blend of
fruit from the seven crus represented by the
family's vineyards. 85% grand cru, 15%
premier cru. Straw color. The nose showcases subtle aromas of lemon rind, peach pit,
and other stone fruit. A classic introduction
to the house style, the palate is restrained,
compact and focused. Flavors of lemon intermingle with nuts and toast, while the
firm, dry finish completes the experience.
57
juicy and youthful appearance of fruit on the

palate. Here, ripe cherry notes leave an impression of sweetness, with almost syrupy textures. The fruit fades towards the backpalate,
continuing to leave a subtle thread on the
lengthy finish. A bit more of the exciting cherry flavors would render this a more complete
wine. Disgorged February 2012. Enjoy 20122106. 91 points Chuck Hayward
COUTIER
Ambonnay
Located in the famed grand cru village
of Ambonnay, the Coutier family traces
its lineage back to 1619. Rene and his
wife Nathalie currently hold the reins to
the domaine. The house is quite small,
producing slightly more than 4,000 cases. While more could be produced, Rene
has chosen to maintain his contracts
with larger wineries, which purchase up
to 80% of the grapes grown on the property.
Ambonnay, along with the wines from
Bouzy and Ay, form the core of Champagne's best grand crus for pinot noir in
the Montagne de Reims. The village and
its neighbors benefit from their southern
exposures which allow grapes to ripen
easily.
NV Brut
NV Brut Rose

grand cru village of Ambonnay. Open and
moderately intense aromas of mild cherry and
yeast are complemented by subtle hints of
dried nuts and mead. Showing its Ambonnay
origins quite clearly, ripe and juicy cherry
notes make up the attack, along with complex
undertones of spice and mineral notes. Showing a seamless transition from the midpalate
towards the back, the broad, soft finish is complemented by a touch of citrus. Quite appealing for its juicy cherry notes from the pinot
noir. Enjoy 2012-2016. 93 points Chuck
Hayward
45% pinot noir and 55% chardonnay from the

grand cru village of Ambonnay. Pale, yet vibrant strawberry hue, the youthful and primary aromas of bright cherry soon give way to
intriguing notes of miso and soy. With an
intensity of ripe dried cherry on entry, there
remains an ethereal weightlessness at the core,
leaving a gentle impression. Not overly complex, there's just enough concentration to
carry through to the fruit-filled finish. Enjoy
The family currently owns 8.5 hectares

of vineyards, but surprisingly, one-third
of their vines are chardonnay. It turns
out that Rene's father planted
chardonnay in 1946, becoming
the first grower in Ambonnay
to do so.
58
DIEBOLT-VALLOIS
Cramant
Diebolt-Vallois is another Cote des
Blancs domaine from a region that seem
to occupy more wine lists and store
shelves lately. The Diebolt family's
holdings are mostly centered in the
grand cru site of Cramant and the premier cru village of Cuis along with a
smattering of smaller plots located in
the Cotes de Bar and Montagne de
Reims.
Jacques Diebolt began making Champagne when he was 17, having been
assigned vineyard duties by his father
while learning cellar work from his
grandfather. The family's small holdings
were expanded when he married and
incorporated a portion of the vineyards
owned by his wife's family.
The blanc de blancs cuves are complex
and exciting examples of the style.

"Prestige"
2006 Brut
100% chardonnay from 30-50 year-old grand

cru vineyards. Pale straw hue, with a complex
bouquet of dried fruit, herbs, cut flowers and
hints of lemon. The firm palate is more expressive, with lightly concentrated, yet pristinely
focused lemon fruit and sweet spices. With
broad textures, the fresh flavors fade onto a
soft, delicate and subtle finish. A fine expression of a lighter styled champagne. 6-7 g/l
dosage. Enjoy 2012-2016. 92 points Chuck
Hayward
100% chardonnay from grand cru vineyards.

Clear straw color, the subtle and delicate bouquet exhibits intense, high-toned aromas of
sweet pear and flowers. Medium bodied, the
palate emphasizes the purity of the pretty apple
and pear notes. With broad textures, the fruit
is ripe yet introspective, encouraging multiple
sips. The midpalate transitions seamlessly
towards a long, lingering finish laced with
sweet minerals. This will gain even more expression with a few years in the cellar. Enjoy
NV Brut Ros
2005 Brut "Fleur du Passion"
With a beautiful pink rose hue, the bouquet

shows off a quiet nose of berry, rose petal and
fresh florals. Bright and clean flavors of ripe
cherry comprise the core of the palate where
they form lightly dense textures. Some firmness appears in the backpalate as the flavors
turn towards dried berry and the juicy core
fades. The cherry and berry notes continue
their presence in the fruity finish. (Cork 1912)
59
100% chardonnay. From 7-8 plots of 40+ year

-old vines in the grand cru village of Cramant.
Barrel fermented and aged in oak for 8 months
before sur-lie aging. Toast and lemon rind
make up the core of the aromatic bouquet, supported by dried herbs and precise notes of
sandstone. Medium-full bodied, the palate
exhibits prolific amounts of ripe tropical fruit
that transitions into citrus on the finish. Exotic flavors of mango and pineapple dominate the
midpalate with a fine layer of talc-like minerals
on the short yet fruity finish. 6-8 g/l. Enjoy
DOSNON + LEPAGE
Avirey-Lingey
The biography of a Champagne house
typically involves a history that goes
back centuries and winemakers who
have labored for decades. Its therefore
somewhat rare to come across an
emerging Champagne house such as
Dosnon + Lepage, which just released
its third vintage and is being exported
to the US for the first time.
As might be expected from such a new
venture, their wines reflect many of the
current trends in the regionfrom vineyard to cellar to bottle. They are among
many who are working to increase the
health of their vines with organic practices, they ferment all of their grapes in
barrel, and use low dosages at the end
of the process to place primary emphasis on the fruit. To set themselves apart
from their storied peers, they have also
employed a more contemporary label.
Davy Dosnon and Simon-Charles
Lepage grew up in the Cte des Bar, an
official subregion of the Champagne
AOC, closer to Chablis than to the better
known growing regions around
Epernay and Reims. This area is known
for slightly warmer temperatures and a
type of chalk soil similar to what is
found in Chablis. The resulting wines
are fuller bodied and more textural in
style. Combined with the aforementioned cellar practices and minimal filtration of the wines, their small portfolio
is making waves.
NV Rcolte Noire
NV Brut "Rcolte Ros"
100% pinot noir. This cuve is based upon the

2007 vintage and contains about 30% reserve
wine. Straw color. The nose offers nutty aromas with hints of baked fruits along with citrus zest and subtle notes of mango, as the
wine develops. While cherries and berries
dominate the flavors, there is elegance to the
medium weighted palate, with its creamy textures and soft acids. The purity of fruit here is
quite evident, with rich textures on the finish
and hardly any oak presence. Rich without
being weighty, this is very quaffable. (L18509)
100% pinot noir. This cuve is based on the

2007 vintage with about 20% reserve wine.
The color is salmon, bordering on pink, with
vibrant effervescence. The aromatics emphasize
juicy fruit with a ripe kirsch note. The round
mid-palate has flavors of maraschino cherry,
supporting a long, rich finish with perfectly
integrated acids. After being open for a while,
the wine takes on Burgundian overtones a
bit of earthy, dusty spice to go along with the
crushed cherries. This is a forward ros showing stylized fruit flavors and aromas. (L42509)
NV Brut "Rcolte Blanche"
their wines
reflect many of
the current trends
in the region
from vineyard to
cellar to bottle
60
100% chardonnay. This cuve is based on the

2006 vintage and has about 30% reserve wine
and very low dosage. Yellow straw color. The
closed and restrained nose slowly develops
hints of fresh yeast and frosted pastry. The
palate, however, is much richer, with forward
chardonnay fruit combined with crisp, green
pear. The style of this medium-full bodied cuve is more taut and structured with a firm
finish that is supported by integrated acids.
FLEURY
Courteron
This relatively low-profile domaine
should enjoy a bit more recognition
given their past history. The firm was
founded in 1895 and began bottling
their own champagnes in 1929 as grape
prices collapsed due to the Great Depression. Following the phyloxerra infestations that devastated all of France,
many growers replanted with the idea
of improving their vineyards. Emile
Fleury used this opportunity to become
the first grower to plant pinot noir in
the Cte des Bar. Today, the 15 hectare
domaine is run by Jean-Sebastien Fleury
and is planted to 90% pinot noir.
The wineries of the Cotes des Bar have
led the push towards organic and biodynamic viticulture in Champagne.
Once again, the house of Fleury took the
lead by converting their first plots to
biodynamics in 1989 following JeanPierre's initial investigations of sustainable viticultural practices in the 1970s.
The domaine is generally considered to
be the first Champagne house to adopt
biodynamics. Fleury seems to be reconfiguring its portfolio as a number of
new cuves and redesigned labels have
been released recently.
The domaine is
generally
considered the
first Champagne
house to adopt
biodynamics.
2004 Brut "Cepages Blanc"
Chardonnay with some pinot blanc. Golden
straw in color, concentrated aromas of ripe
pear and dried apple form the core of the bouquet. Underneath, scents of fresh bread appear
with some aeration. Firm textures with flavors
of dried fruit create a medium-full bodied presence on the palate. This structural aspect to
the wine continues towards the backpalate as
honey flavors coat the mouth along with citrus
and apples notes. 500 cases produced.
61
2004 Brut "Fleur de l'Europe"

90% pinot noir, 10% chardonnay. Golden
straw in color. The fairly intense bouquet mixes aromas of roasted lemon, yeast, flower pollen and pear. On the palate, the flavors mimic
the same aromatic spectrum as they highlight
notes of ginger, dried fruit and honey along
with some oxidative characters. Overall, this
cuve has a more elegant presence on the palate
than what the bouquet might predict with
moderate richness on the backpalate and a
lemon scented finish. (Disgorged 6/11) 91
pointsChuck Hayward
1996 Vintage Brut

80% pinot noir, 20% chardonnay. Like Bollinger, sur lie aging for this wine was done
with cork instead of crown seals. Golden straw
color. The moderately intense bouquet offers
notes of honeycomb and fresh yeast that intertwine with subtle citrus aromas. At a unique
point in its development, this vintage is starting to show the advantages of extended time
en tirage as the maturing fruit flavors fill the
palate. Notes of mandarin orange and tropical
fruits are displayed with caramel as the intensity builds towards a round finish. Drink soon
while the ripe fruit maintains its presence. 350
cases produced. (Disgorged 6/11) 93 points
Chuck Hayward
GARDET
Chigny-les-Roses
With vineyards scattered across the
Montagne des Reims, the champagnes
from Gardet have a strong foundation
in pinot noir, the grapes that are the
backbone of the region's viticulture.
Founded at the end of the 19th century
by Charles Gardet, the estate floundered
while he worked for other properties. It
wasnt until the 1920s that his son took
over and revived the business. Since
then, it has maintained a small but loyal
following.
The basis for Gardet's wines comes from
the seven hectares of vineyards they
own in the Montagne de Reims crus of
Chigny and Ludes. These grapes are
supplemented by long-term contracts
from growers who have worked with
the estate for generations. The house has
rightfully garnered a reputation as a
specialist in ross and pinot based
blends, with boldly flavored cuves that
are rich in texture while still retaining a
core of fruit. The weight of these wines
comes more from extensive use of pinot
noir and pinot meunier, than the use of
barrels or extended lees contact.
Gardets vintage ros is one of the more
individual styles of Champagne to be
encountered in this survey, and is a
decadent delight.
NV Brut "Brut Special"
NV Brut Ros
20% of this cuve is comprised of reserve

wines, aged in oak for 1-2 years. The balance
comes from the 2004 vintage. Yellow-gold
color. The bouquet is quite rich with concentrated fruit aromas, along with ginger, cinnamon and fresh nuts. This gives way to an
undeniably rich and mouth-filling palate. A
touch straightforward, this weighty bubbly
has flavors of hard pear, supported by hints of
autolytic qualities, including brioche and
nuts. (L99512871) 91 points Chuck Hayward
Pale salmon color. Still pinot noir which has

spent some time in oak is added to the blend for
this ros. Tangy cherries appear in the bouquet
following initial scents of rose and spice. As
the wine opens up, the midpalate becomes
juicy and round with cherry and dried berry
flavors at the core. This medium bodied Champagne has a firm, dry finish that is more masculine in style. (L50712871) 91 points
Chuck Hayward
The house has

rightfully garnered
a reputation as a
specialist in ross
and pinot based
blends
62
2002 Ros
50% pinot noir, 50% pinot meunier. Where
most ross gain color from the addition of still
wine to the cuve, all the fruit here is macerated on the skins for a few hours to gain color.
The result is a deep, cherry color reminiscent
of a Tavel. Intense aromas of dried fruits and
spice bring Burgundy to mind. The palate is
quite textural with rich, thick deeply fruited
flavors that continue on to an effortless finish.
This very unique style can easily stand up to
the main course at dinner. 93 points Chuck
Hayward
GASTON CHIQUET
Dizy
The concept of grower Champagne is
relatively new in the history of champagne. During the 1800s and into the
beginning of the last century, growers
did not have the financial resources to
produce and cellar their wine. Most
vineyard plots were small and as farmers, financial security was best achieved
by selling their grapes to negociants or
Champagne houses. It took a lot of guts
to go out on your own back then and in
1919, Gaston Chiquet did just that, becoming one of the first to do so. Since
then, the family has slowly added other
vineyards to their holdings so that they
currently own about 60 acres and make
around 17,000 cases of champagne.
The Chiquets have a number of unique
storylines being told in their vineyards.
The premier crus of Dizy and Hautvillers are known for producing top quality pinot meunier and the family has
large plantings of this rather unfashionable grape. For the basic non-vintage
blends, the meunier component is higher than what you will find in other examples. In the grand cru site at A,
known as one of the top locales for
growing pinot noir, the family grows
chardonnay that is used for their blanc
de blancs.
The champagnes of Chiquet are very
approachable, forward and ready to
drink. The use of malolactic fermentation gives their wines roundness, while
they avoid the use of oak. These decisions account for the quality of Chiquet's Blanc de Blancs, which stand out
due to their purity of fruit and layers of
flavors. In fact, the 2000 in magnum was
probably the highlight in Terry Theise's
portfolio tasting and should not be
missed.
and precise, this elegantly styled bottling will

need time for those who prefer more texture.
Tasted from magnum. Enjoy 2012-2020. 92
NV Brut Rose
2005 Brut "Special Club"

The effusive bouquet on this cuve stands out
from its peers as it highlights its ever evolving
aromas. Initially revealing high-toned citrus
aromas and honeyed flowers, more savory
notes of roasted nuts and sweet brioche come
about with air. The palate has even more to
offer, with its complex array of textures and
flavors. Broad and creamy, the flavors are
nevertheless precise and focused. There's a
mixture of fresh and baked tree fruit, along
with tropical notes of pineapple and banana.
The complexity and focus continues seamlessly towards the lengthy finish, where a bit of
tension suggests that more will be revealed
with a few years in the cellar. An exciting and
thrilling release. Enjoy 2012-2020. 95+ points
Chuck Hayward
2004 Brut Blanc de Blancs "d'Ay"

100% chardonnay from the grand cru village
of Ay (better known for pinot noir). Pale straw
hue, the airy and ephemeral bouquet brings
citrus-infused sponge cake to mind. The compact shape of the palate communicates a more
subtle impression despite the intense flavors of
firm Anjou pear. Densely concentrated, the
palate is more firm than juicy in texture yet
shows autolytic hints of dried toast. The finish
reflects a tighter presence as it tapers to a
thread of pear skin and dried apple. Focused
63

pinot meunier (with 18% pinot added for color
and flavor). All of these lots are from the 2008
vintage. The pale strawberry hue is matched
with a subtle bouquet that highlights delicate
cherry aromas surrounded by hints of clove
and bark. Light and almost airy in its concentration, the juicy cherry and berry notes are
broadly textured if a bit soft and dilute. Some
appropriate acidity keeps the backpalate light
and fresh as notes of dried cherry comprise the
light, if simple finish. An elegant and pleasant
rose for easy drinking. Disgorged June 2011.
2004 Brut Millesime

40% chardonnay and 60% pinot noir. Pale
straw hue, with focused and high-toned aromas of firm citrus, complemented by a touch of
earth and mushroom. With an attack that mirrors the nose, pear and apple flavors support
the focused citrus notes. There's a light presence of fruit on the palate as the acidity reins
in the shape and creates a crisp flavor profile.
With a feathery finish that reveals notes of
citrus skin and minerals, there's a lingering
impression that this could open up with some
time in the cellar. Disgorged September 2011.
Enjoy 2013-2019. 93+ points Chuck Hayward
HENRI BILLIOT
Ambonnay
The Billiots are based in Ambonnay
home to some of the best pinot noir in
the Montagne de Reims. This grand cru
village is considered one of the top 3
grand cru villages for growing pinot
noir. About 5% of the vineyards in Ambonnay are dedicated to chardonnay
and, interestingly, it makes up a quarter
of the 12 acres owned by the Billiots.
The family's intersection with the
Champagne industry began in the early
20th century when Louis Billiot owned
one of the village presses. His grandson
later began purchasing vineyards and
the portfolio today is based solely on
their holdings, no fruit is brought in
from other growers. Consequently, their
production is quite small, less than 4000
cases per year are produced.
Tasting these wines was a real eyeopener as they offered flavors quite different than what is normally encountered in Champagne. Exotic, tropical
aromas and flavors were the hallmarks
noted across the portfolio and as such,
presented a unique style rarely seen in
other houses. These wines definitely
redefine what the region is capable of
producing.
Tasting these wines

was a real eye-opener
as they offered flavors
quite different than
what is normally
encountered in
Champagne.
2004 Brut "Millesime"

75% pinot noir, 25% chardonnay from the
grand cru village of Ambonnay. Pale straw in
color, the nose offers up aromas that strike a
perfectly poised balance between youthful
fruitiness and aged characteristics. Notes of
fresh yeast and bread, flowers and sponge cake
are complex and dominate the bouquet, while
the palate highlights medium weighted flavors
of caramel and bananas foster. The richly textured flavors are more about fruit than aldehydic characters and the candied fruits dominate
the finish. (Disgorged 1/10) 93 pointsChuck
Hayward
NV Brut "Reserve"
NV Brut "Cuve Laetitia"
Half of this wine is from the 2008 vintage, the

remainder split between the 2006 and 2007.
Pale and almost colorless, the moderately intense bouquet is dominated by scents emanating from its recent disgorgement. That really
becomes apparent when tasting this portfolio
as very ripe and exotic tropical fruit flavors
dominate the palate. This unusual style highlights round and juicy textures with notes of
pineapple and mango that are delicate around
the fringes and finish. Quite different.
This cuve is essentially from a solera where

wine is drawn from the tank and replaced by
wine from a recent harvest. This bottling contains almost twenty different vintages going
back to 1983. Pale straw. Exotic scents of tropical fruits mingle with strong aromas resulting
from this bottle's recent disgorgement. With
air, notes of caramel, Bit-O-Honey and banana
appear in the bouquet and are mirrored on the
palate, where flavors of banana bread mix with
intense candied and brandied dried fruits.
Very, very different. This is a full bodied, exotic style that mixes tropical fruits with toasty
elements. A bit of time under cork should allow the various elements to meld together. 94
pointsChuck Hayward
64
Laetitia Billiot
HENRI GOUTROBE
Ay
The Goutorbe family's connection to the
Champagne business began in the early
20th century when Emile Goutorbe
launched a successful vine nursery business that is still in operation. Profits
from this enterprise allowed them to
purchase a few plots that led the family
to start making their own bubbly just
after World War II. They now run a
large domaine of 54 acres.
A good portion of Goutorbe's vineyards
are located in the village of Ay, considered by many to be the best grand cru
for pinot noir in Champagne. Almost
half their holdings are from this site in
the Vallee de la Marne while their other
parcels are in the far-flung regions of
the Cote de Sezanne and the Cte des
Bar.
NV Brut "Cuve Prestige"
2004 Brut Millesime
70% pinot noir, 25% chardonnay, 5% pinot

meunier and based on the 2005 vintage. Deep
straw in color. The bouquet offers up very
faint notes of fresh earth and mushroom. The
palate, however, is richly textured with layered and complex flavors of dried pear and
apple dusted with notes of brown sugar. As
the flavors progress towards the backpalate, a
bit more concentration of flavor develops along
with fresh dosage elements of nuts and caramel. The bright, clean fruit flavors carry
through on the finish. More on the bouquet
would help. 91 pointsChuck Hayward
67% pinot noir, 33% chardonnay. This straw

colored cuve shows intense aromas of pear
with hints of honey and mead. The palate follows the bouquet as ripe and dried pear dominates this medium-bodied bubbly. Somewhat
firm, the style emphasizes structure over juiciness, and complexity can be found here as
minerals, toast and dried fruit components
weave about the backpalate. (Disgorged 6/10)
NV Brut Ros
2007 vintage. Bright pink/cherry in color.
Hints of sherry and other oxidative aromas
dominate the bouquet which fails to show any
hints of fruit. The palate, however, offers up
lots of dried cherry that make up the roundly
textured midpalate. With an emphasis on
dried over fresh fruits, granular textures appear along with notes of yeast that make up a
firm and slightly bitter finish. (Disgorged
Etienne Goutrobe
65
2004 Brut "Special Club"

grand cru village of Ay. Pale straw in color,
the aromas of lemon rind, bread yeast and
mushroom appear once the immediate spirit
and brandy notes blow off. The attack of juicy,
honeyed citrus gives way to ripe mango at the
core. The lemon theme returns on the backpalate where roasted citrus rind adds a firm note
on the finish. There's a subtle, airy presence on
the palate, as flavors are not overly concentrated or complex. A rough note at the back highlights the disjointed nature of this cuve at the
moment. Enjoy 2012-2018. 90 points Chuck
Hayward
J. LASSALLE
Chigny-Les-Roses
This tiny house is located in the Montagne de Reims and was founded in 1942.
Women have played an important role
in the Champagne region for centuries,
in the early 19th century at houses such
as Veuve Clicquot and Pommery and a
hundred years later at Bollinger and
Laurent Perrier. Unique to the Champagne region in more recent times, Lassalle has been run by the women of the
family for three consecutive generations. Their motto une femme, un esprit,
un style says it all.
NV Brut "Reserve Cachet d'Or"

60% pinot meunier, 20% pinot noir and 20%
chardonnay entirely from premier cru vineyards. Pale straw color. The bouquet is quite
complex, reflecting a broad array of aromas
including lemon zest, hazelnut, fresh hay and
a hint of butter. The attack is airy and light
with the flavors slowly building towards a
medium-bodied presence on the palate. Toasty/
yeasty notes mingle with firmly textured flavors of hard lemon candy and grilled nuts on
the backpalate continuing towards the structured finish. (L04) 92 pointsChuck Hayward
This is a classsical domaine growing the

three main varietals that make up champagne. The 25 acres of vines are all
premier cru ranked vineyards. Today,
the family continues to follow the production methods that were developed
by Jules Lassalle when he founded the
domaine which includes the use of a
wooden basket press in separating the
cuve from the taille, separate fermentations for each parcel and the use of
malolactic fermentation for all wines in
the portfolio.
2005 Brut "Cuve Angeline"

from premier cru vineyards. This straw colored wine displays high toned aromas of pine
and fresh herbs that mingle with a hint of
mild, dusty spice on a subtle and closed frame.
With some air, more autolytic qualities of
baked bread and brandy appear. The core of the
palate showcases flavors of fresh apple and
buttery brioche in a light and airy manner that
leads to an elegant, if slightly diluted, finish.
(L2005) 92 pointsChuck Hayward
66
JEAN LALLEMENT
Verzenay
The village of Verzenay is home to the
tiny domaine of Jean-Luc Lallement.
And when I say tiny, I mean just 1700
cases of champgne each year from his 11
acres of vineyards. Lallement farms 20
different plots of which about 2/3 are
located in the grand cru village of Verzenay with the remainder next door in
Verzy which is also designated as grand
cru. Because of the limited production,
the house only makes four cuves with
a vintage Champagne made for the first
time with the 2006 harvest.
NV Brut
NV Brut "Reserve"

coming from the 2008 harvest and 20% from
2007. Clearly colored, tightly wound aromas
of bread yeast and citrus blossoms comprise
the bouquet. The delicate nose does little to
indicate the palate's powerful fruit where
notes of ripe Bosc pears and fresh dried fruits
form the foundation of the flavors. Mediumfull bodied in weight, there are subtle toast
notes that surround the core of fruit that slide
gently to a long yet somewhat simple finish. A
classic rendition of champagne. (Disgorged
November 2010) 93 pointsChuck Hayward

coming from the 2007 harvest and 20% from
2008. Straw colored, notes of yeast peel away
to show citrus scents that grow stronger with
air. Medium bodied flavors of fresh, citrus
infused fruits carry through to a finish that
has drying textures of talc-like yeast and
mushroom notes. The core of the palate shows
clean, bright fruit with hints of spice although
overall there's a disjointed quality as the hot,
candied backpalate is a bit rough. (Disgorged
NV Brut Ros
100% pinot noir based on fruit from the 2008
vintage. Pale rose in color, the bouquet here
shows less of an emphasis on fruit as aromas of
dried flowers and earth prevail. The palate
initially corresponds closely to the bouquet
where flavors of mushrooms and earth fade
away to reveal a core of cherry liqueur that
gains richness towards the backpalate that
extends towards the finish. A nice bottle but
the earthy/yeasty notes detract, a more pure
fruit expression would benefit. (Disgorged
67
JEAN MILAN
Oger
The Milans first grew grapes in 1864,
and current proprietor Caroline Milan
represents the fifth generation of the
family to work in the business. In the
past, the house sold grapes to negociants (including Krug and Pol Roger)
while also making their own wines, but
their focus today is making champagnes
that highlight the fruit from their village.
The domaine consists of a 14 acres
spread among 42 different parcels located entirely in the grand cru village of
Oger in the Cote des Blancs. It is a village that is slightly warmer than Mesnil
and Cramant resulting in flavors that
are a touch richer with more texture
than what you might find in a grand cru
like Le Mesnil. This can be seen in the
wines tasted for this report.

"Speciale"
NV Brut Blanc de Blancs "Cuve

de Reserve"

of Oger with 50% from 2006 and the other
half from 2007. Pale in color. The bouquet is
subtle with aromas of mushroom, sage, yeast
and the barest hint of citrus. A complex array
of dried fruit flavors highlight this medium
bodied, firm style of Champagne that emphasizes structure over juicy elements. The backpalate is a bit short as the finish subsides
quickly. (Disgorged 2/11) 91 pointsChuck
Hayward

of Oger. This a blend of wines from 2005 and
2006, which were vinified in wood. Pale straw
in color. Dominated by aromas of dry wood,
yeast and sweet pine, the bouquet was affected
by this wine's recent disgorgement. Medium
weighted, the chardonnay flavors are clearly
evident with pear and ripe peach at the core of
the palate. A bit of viscous texture to the ripe
fruit mingles with subtle notes of yeast and
nuts in the backpalate, and the complex fruit
flavors make up the core of an elegant finish. A
bouquet that matches the palate would give
this wine an even better score. 94+ points
Chuck Hayward

Millenaire"
of Oger. The cuve for the "Millenaire" is the
same as the "Speciale" with another year of
aging. The pronounced aromas of yeast and
fresh bread are the most prevalent aspects of
the bouquet but the palate highlights the fruit.
Broadly textured from the front to the back,
the palate displays lime Lifesavers and lemon
candy sticks. Hints of yeast and toast influences mingle with the fruit in the backpalate
and contribute subtle complexity on the spicy
finish. 93 pointsChuck Hayward
68

"Symphorine"
100% chardonnay. A subtle hint of high-toned
citrus lies underneath aromas of fresh hay and
straw, with fresh yeast appearing with air. The
attack is subdued and a touch simple at first
but the flavors really kick in with weighty fruit
at the core with some complexity and elegance
found later in the finish. Very refined and
sophisticated, this cuve delivers a finely elegant finish that highlights citrus flavors.
(Disgorged late 2010) 94 pointsChuck Hayward
L. AUBRY
Jouy-les-Reims
This domaine is run by Phillipe and
Pierre Aubry, twin brothers who have
extensive holdings in three villages of
the Montagne de Reims that are all
ranked premier cru.
One of the benefits that have resulted
from the increased focus on grower
champagnes has been the re-appearance
of what I call the "lost varietals". Many
Champagne buffs may not realize that
up to nine varietals are allowed to be
grown according to AOC regulations.
Grapes like arbanne and pinot meslier
are among those that were permitted
but are now quite scarce. The Aubry's
have embarked on a program to resuscitate these lost varietals by planting them
at their estate.
NV Brut
50% pinot meunier, 25% chardonnay, 25%
pinot noir. 60% from the 2008 harvest. Clear
color. The bouquet offers up aromas of soft
lemon that lead into more pronounced notes of
fresh porcini mushroom. Medium-full bodied,
dried apple and a hint of caramel are the dominant flavors. The finish is firm and slightly
bitter with citrus notes forming the spine of
the lingering finish. A bit disjointed at the
backpalate and on the finish, this could improve with more time on cork. (Disgorged
2005 Brut "Ivoire at Ebone"

pinot noir. The chardonnay and meunier are
fermented and aged in 200 liter casks of varying ages for nine months. Pale straw color, the
subtle and restrained bouquet does not prepare
you for the explosion of flavor on entry. Pristine flavors found on the palate are light and
airy if a bit simple. What this cuve does not
have is richness or yeasty characters, emphasizing a pure fruit expression instead. The
finish is elegant and fades subtly. (Disgorged
2005 Brut "Le Nombre d'Or

Campanae Veteres Vites"
15% arbanne, 15% chardonnay, 20% pinot
meslier, 25% pinot noir, 5% pinot meunier,
20% pinot gris and pinot blanc. Pale straw in
color. Moderately intense aromas reveal dried
toast with the barest hint of fruit. The palate
shows an array of complex flavors with marked
density of fruit on the midpalate offering layers
of peach and dried cherry. A touch of chalky
talc minerality forms the spine of the dry and
delicate finish. An exciting bubbly, stressing
fruit over autolytic characters. (Disgorged
NV Brut Ros
45% chardonnay, 40% pinot noir with 15%
pinot meunier still wine from 2008. Pale pink
in color with a good mousse. Subtle aromas of
crunchy cranberry and yeast emerge with a
hint of cherry appearing after some air. Fairly
rich on the palate, attractive flavors of brandied cherry are clean and bright towards the
backpalate, with subtle tannins contributing to
a drying finish. While the flavors are intense
and precise, there is an overall sense of delicacy
and elegance to the style here. (Disgorged
NV Ros "Cuve Nicolas Francois

Aubry Sable"
15% chardonnay, 20% arbanne, 20% pinot
meslier and 35% pinot noir with 10% pinot
meunier still wine added to the blend. This
cuve has lower pressure than most Champagne due to less sugar in the liqueur d'expedition. Pale rose petal in color. Pronounced
yeast emerges on the nose along with a touch
of brandy spirit from the dosage. The flavors
are faint and delicate from start to finish, almost too subtle and missing that special rose
character. A rather curious style that while
free of faults does not bring much excitement.
90+ pointsChuck Hayward
69
LARMANDIER-BERNIER
Verjus
Larmandier-Bernier has made quite a
splash in the Champagne category as
one of the few estates to adopt biodynamic practices in their vineyards.
Adopting organic and biodynamic procedures is very difficult in Champagne
because most growers own a variety of
plots, and their neighbors might opt to
use fertilizers and pesticides nearby.
Nevertheless, organic viticulture started
in the 1990s (biodynamics began in
1999), and these procedures are now
used throughout the entire domaine.
NV Extra Brut "Tradition"
NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs
80% chardonnay, 20% pinot noir with reserve

wines comprising 1/3 of the cuve. Deep straw
in color. The bouquet has clean, pristine autolytic notes of toast and sandalwood intermingled with lemon rind and a hint of vanilla.
The attack is subtle but picks up more weight
as the flavors progress towards the midpalate,
where flavors of ripe apple and pear kick in
with finely grained citrus notes appearing as
the textures taper towards the finish. Compact
and delicate on the backpalate, the soft finish
provides a spicy minerality. 92 pointsChuck
Hayward
100% chardonnay from the crus of Vertus,

Cramant, Avize and Oger. Color of golden
straw. Pronounced and intense aromas of buttered toast emerge at first whiff, and with air,
fresh bread, hints of cedar and crisp lemon
appear. Far from subtle on the attack, the palate explodes with powerful, ripe fruit and textures that are firm rather than plush, laced
with hard lemon candy flavors. The backpalate
becomes refined as it connects seamlessly with
the firm finish to highlight finely grained minerals and zesty spice. 94 pointsChuck Hayward
In the Cote des Blancs, there are 39 acres

farmed by the Larmandiers. Most of the
vineyards are of premier cru ranking
with 7 acres of grand cru plots in four
villages (Avize, Cramant, Chouilly and
Oger). All in all, the estate works over
50 plots of vines in the region including
a rare small plot of pinot noir that is
used for a ros sparkling and a still
wine.
NV Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs

"Terre de Vertus"
100% chardonnay. The fruit for this cuve
comes entirely from two lots in the cru of Vertus. Primary fermentation takes place in neutral oak casks. Golden straw in color. The
bouquet showcases less fruit and more autolytic aromas of fresh yeast and bread dough. This
bottling shows the most breadth and complexity of the portfolio. Richly textured on the midpalate, the faintest hint of fresh, juicy fruit
quickly washes away to reveal dried apricot
and peach. The spicy minerality that seems to
be the hallmark trait of the finish from this
house appears quickly after midpalate starts to
fade. This cuve offers loads of freshness for an
autolytically styled champagne. 94 points
Chuck Hayward
The domaine's wines emphasize specific

stylistic decisions made by the
Larmandiers in the cellar. Primary fermentation is accomplished through the
use of natural yeasts and barrel fermentation is utilized in some of the better
cuves. If they are used at all, the dosage is comprised of very low levels of
sugar.
Champagnes from the Cote de Blancs
can often show a compact profile with
understated fruit flavors. Given all their
winemaking techniques as well as their
preference for picking fruit later and a
bit riper, the style of Larmandiers'
champagnes show richness and texture
all the while maintaining a refined
hand.
70
MOUTARD
Buxeuil
Much attention has recently been paid
to the wineries of the Cotes des Bar and
that is a very good thing. Much of this
renewed focus can be attributed to the
house of Drappier, one of the larger
producers in the Aude. But if there is a
small, artisanal house that deserves at
least some applause, it should be directed towards the house of Moutard.
Located in the village of Buxeuil, the
house owns 21 hectares of vineyards,
but demand for their wines has meant
that they must purchase about 60% of
their fruit from local growers. Today,
Champagne is only a small part of the
familys net wine production. As might
be expected of a wine business in the
southern reaches of Champagne, the
firm is involved in the production of a
number of still wines. Wines from nearby appellations such as Chablis, Irancy
and Saint Bris make up part of the portfolio. The most successful portion of
their business, however, is the production of brandies, liqueurs and traditional spirits like marc and ratafia, all of
which use Champagne grapes as their
base product.
Moutard is perhaps best known for two
particular cuves that rely on Champagne's historic varieties. The "Cuve 6
Cepages" adds arbane, pinot blanc and
petit meslier to the three traditional
Champenois grapes. They also bottle
what is probably the only Champagne
made entirely from arbane. The domaines emphasis on the region's traditional grapes can be traced to their recent history when, at the end of the 19th
century, they had all of the 11 permitted
varieties in their vineyards. This

included grapes such as gamay
and chasselas, along with troyen
and morillon which are now
extinct. Indeed, the family has
proven to be a valuable resource
with their extensive knowledge
in the history of these ancient
vines. It is safe to say that the
renewed interest in Champagne's lost varieties would not
have occurred without Moutard's commitment to preserving this history.
Nevertheless, this is a quite interesting, elegantly styled bubbly. The dosage is 10 g/l.
Disgorged October, 2011. Enjoy 2012-2018.
NV Brut
60% 100% pinot noir from vines that are 1020 years old. Pale straw hue, with a creamy
apple note that combines with a touch of honey
mead and flower pollen. Broadly textured,
with straightforward notes of sliced apple and
pear, the light-medium bodied palate transitions seamlessly into the finish. A bit straightforward, yet tasty. The dosage is 10 g/l. Enjoy
2004 Brut "Cuve des 6 Cepages"

17% each of arbanne, petit meslier, pinot
blanc, and chardonnay, with 16% pinot noir
and 18% pinot meunier. Vines are planted on
Kimmeridgian soils in the Cotes des Bar village of Polisy. With a subtle yet persistent
bead, the understated bouquet is focused, with
dominant citrus rind aromas. Light to medium bodied, with a moderate shape on the palate, subtle notes of dried nuts, lemon and
flowers provide complexity. With a soft attack
and finish, the emphasis here is on elegance
over power. The complexity is faint, but present. This is a well put together cuvee but
could use a touch more intensity and length.
71
2006 Brut "Cepages Arbane - Viellies Vignes"

100% arbane from vines planted in 1952 in
the village of Polisy in the Cte des Bar. Vines
are planted on Kimmeridgian soils. The open
and complex aromas are quite unique, with
notes of fennel and sweet spice, along with
sausage, rustic lemons, and roasted honey.
Despite its intrigue, the intensity of the bouquet is understated. With a delicate attack, the
midpalate gains a modicum of weight, tapering
seamlessly to a soft finish. There's a bit of firm
citrus rind and funky honey mead notes on the
backpalate as well. A bit feral on both the nose
and palate, there is a definite difference to be
noted when compared to classically blended
champagnes. If there's a reference point to the
flavors found here, the white wines from
southwest France come to mind. The dosage is
10 g/l. 1512 btls produced. Disgorged October,
2011. Enjoy 2012-2016. 93 points Chuck
Hayward
MOUSS
Cuisles
One of the essays in this year's Champagne report discusses grapes other
than the region's most popular varieties:
chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot
meunier. But a glance at these wines,
produced by most Champagne houses,
clearly indicates that chardonnay and
pinot noir have a preferred status. Pinot
meunier, although widely grown
(particularly in the western section of
the Vallee de la Marne), is clearly the
outlier among Champagne's three main
varieties.
But frustration grew as prices fluctuated

wildly, until they decided to found their
own house in 1923. Jean-Marc Mouss
now heads the house, representing the
fourth generation of his family to do so.
Today, there are 5.5 hectares of vine in the
domaine, spread over 4 different villages.
80% of the vineyards are planted to
meunier, the rest to chardonnay and pinot
noir. Interestingly, most of his vines are
planted in schist soils, not Champagnes
hallmark chalky limestone.
Pinot meunier is thought to act as a

bridge between the finely hewn structure of chardonnay and the plump body
of pinot noir. The chefs du cave in
Champagne like to say that it fills the
gap and while playing an especially
important role in the non-vintage
blends made by larger houses. Those
types of Champagnes, based on younger wines that see less time on the lees,
find that their disjointed nature is resolved with the addition of some
meunier.
Thanks to the grower Champagne revolution, winemakers today are recognizing the heritage that exists in their vineyards and pinot meunier is benefitting
from this renewed perspective. And
thanks to Champagne advocate Terry
Thiese, some of the first meunierdominant bubblies are making their
way to our shores.
The Mouss family can trace its history
in the Marne Valley to 1629. Home to
the best meunier grown in Champagne,
the Mousss founded a vineyard in 1880
in the small village of Cuisles, content to
simply sell their fruit to larger wineries.
NV Brut "Or Tradition"

20% pinot noir and 80% pinot meunier (of
which 60% comes from the 2009 harvest and
the remainder is reserve wine from 2007 and
2008). A faint straw hue heralds the delicate
bouquet, which emphasizes fresh bread dough,
mushroom, a touch of spice and high-toned
citrus aromas. The understated nose does not
match the intense flavors of baked apple and
pear. Showcasing seamless layers of flavor and
a rounded texture, there may not be much
complexity, though the fruit continues through
to the lingering finish. Disgorged December
2011. Enjoy 2012-2016. 92 points Chuck
Hayward
NV Brut Blanc de Blancs "Opale"

100% chardonnay from the 2007 harvest.
Clear, with a delicate bead and a fine mousse.
The focused bouquet is complex, with a core of
apple and lemon cake complemented with
mushroom, dried rosemary and pie crust. This
shows much more intensity and complexity
than its sibling #43 bottling with a core of
fresh tree fruit on the palate. The dry and firm
finish, however, emphasizes tension over exuberance, with a persistent, lingering thread of
fruit. Enjoy 2012-2016. 92 points Chuck
Hayward
And the wines? They are just as one

would expect. Light-medium bodied with
just enough weight to support its heft,
while emphasizing softness at the edges
of the palate. Tasting these wines elucidates the role that meunier plays in
Champagne. The mind wants to add a
dose of pinot for density or a bit of chardonnay to make it racy. But why bother
when you can taste pure meunier as it
should be: Tasty.
72
NV Brut "Noire Reserve"

15% pinot noir, 85% pinot meunier of which
60% comes from the 2007 harvest (with the
remainder composed of reserve wines from '04,
'05 and '06). With a pale gold straw color and
an initially shy bouquet, ripe appley fruit aromas make a simple statement, but aeration
allows this cuve to get richer and more complex. Juicy pear mingles with the apple notes
on a broadly textured palate that seems simple
at first, but finds more complexity emanating
from a spicy spine of acidity. The palate fades
away gently, leaving echoes of the spice and
fruit. It would be great to see a touch more
MOUSS
Cuisles
concentration on the back. Disgorged January 2011. Enjoy 2012-2016. 92 points
Chuck Hayward
2007 Brut Millesime

10% pinot noir and 90% pinot meunier.
Moderately intense aromas of citrus and
apple hint at the latent complexity of this
pale straw colored bubbly. Later, some aeration reveals toast and lemon pound cake
aromas. Showing off a restrained and focused shape on the palate, there's a kernel of
ripe fruit that hints at some intriguing nuances but some snappy acids leave a tight
and crisp impression. The finish shows off
some dried citrus notes and remains taut
and firm if a bit short. Disgorged November
2011. Enjoy 2012-2016. 91 points --Chuck
Hayward
NV Brut Rose "Tradition"

18% pinot noir, 82% pinot meunier (with
9% still red wine added to the blend). Intense and concentrated, the bouquet of ripe
berry and black cherry brings Santa Barbara
pinot to mind. This deep strawberry colored
bottling also possesses youthful flavors of
ripe and juicy cherry. Roundly textured,
there's a core of concentrated dark fruit
surrounded by the more primary fruit expressions. The pure flavors possess enough
concentration to carry on to the backpalate,
where the focus remains through the long
finish. Enjoy 2012-2016. 94 points
Chuck Hayward
73
PAUL BARA
Bouzy
In 1975, long before the growerChampagne movement began in earnest, Kermit Lynch had already added
the champagnes of Paul Bara to his portfolio probably as much to drink as to
sell. Bara represents the classic model
adopted later by importers like Terry
Thiese and Charles Nealsmall, familyowned domaines making hand-crafted
champagnes that express their individual sites, unaffected by blending or corporate mandates.
The Bara family can trace its grape
growing history back to 1833 but it was
not until after World War II that they
began to make bubbly. Located in the
famous village of Bouzy in the Montagne de Reims, the estate today encompasses 27 acres of 100% grand cru rated
vineyards. While this cru is known for
pinot, the Baras also maintain a small
plot of chardonnay that comprises 10%
of their holdings.
Pinot noir grapes from Bouzy have garnered most of their fame as still wine added to ros champagne. Their function as
the foundation for other sparkling cuves
is probably not as well known and popular critical consensus has noted the importance of pinot from the crus of Bouzy
and Ay. Tasting a delicately styled bubbly
from the Cramant next to richly textured
pinot-based Champagne from Bouzy or
Ay is a perfect opportunity to witness the
impact of each grape in the glass. Bara's
champagnes are meant to showcase the
cru of Bouzy in all its richness and depth.
NV Brut "Reserve"
from grand cru vineyards in Bouzy. Clear and
almost translucent in color, there are subtle
yeasty aromas underpinned with hints of lemon. Exciting on the palate, a core of pure ripe
cherries emerges from the cuve's pinot noir
component. Juicy and vibrant, the unique
flavors mix with hints of sandalwood to form
the core of fruit for a subtle and lingering finish. A touch disjointed at this point, a bit more
fruit on the backpalate might come with time
and reveal even more complexity. 94 points
Chuck Hayward
2002 Brut
from grand cru vineyards in Bouzy. Yellow
gold in color. The aromas of this cuve are
quite understated and subtle displaying a
slight note of fresh bread. Medium to mediumfull bodied in palate weight, dried apricot and
peach dominate the flavors of this effervescent
cuve. With a round and airy midpalate presence, there are hints of yeast and dried nuts
underneath the fruit that appear in the backpalate. A touch more fruit extending into the
finish would bring this wine up a few notches,
which might come with a bit more time under
cork. 92 pointsChuck Hayward
74
PEHU-SIMONET
Verzenay
The Pehu-Simmonet label came about
when vineyards from David Pehu's
mother's side of the family were added
to the domaine. Prior to that, Champagne made from the Pehu's vineyards
were sold under the Antonin Pehu label
and as Vueve Pehu prior to that. David
represents the fourth generation of the
Pehu clan to make wine, having started
his career in the family cellars in 1988.
Today the domaine is comprised of 22
acres, 15 of which are from the grand
cru villages of Verzenay, Verzy, Mailly,
Sillery and Le Mesnil. All of the champagnes made at the domaine are
sourced from these crus. Their remaining holdings are designated as premier
cru sites and grapes from these plots are
sold to negociants or other houses. The
Blanc de Noirs is of particular interest at
this estate, as such bottlings, though
quite common in California, are rarely
made in Champagne.
NV Extra Brut "Transperence"
70% pinot noir from the grand crus of Sillery

and Verzenay and 30% chardonnay from Verzenay, all from the 2007 harvest. Pale straw in
color. The moderately intense aromas lead off
with citrus and herbs to later display some
mushroom, sweet spice and banana. Quite a
different bubbly, this also shows feral flavors
along with dried kiwi fruit and vegetables. The
palate's structure is more familiar with a
round attack and a midpalate that is light in
concentration. Hard to categorize, yet still
appealing. (Disgorged 11/10) 91 points
Chuck Hayward
100% chardonnay from the 2008 vintage

grown in the grand cru village of Le Mesnil.
Pale straw in color. Subtle aromas of fresh
mushroom and earth are moderately intense
with the barest hint of citrus appearing with
air. A pristine, high-toned note of pure, unadorned fruit is beguiling if understated. Broadly textured yet still ethereal at the core of the
palate, this is a more "worked" style of blanc
de blancs with less emphasis on fruit purity.
Dosage-affected flavors dominate the backpalate and the finish. Quite different from the
more linear interpretation of a blanc de blancs.
NV Brut "Selection"
grand cru of Verzenay and the 2007 harvest.
The bouquet is a bit spirity on the nose, thanks
to its recent disgorgement, which afterwards
reveals subtle aromas of toasted bread, yeast
and flower pollen. The palate also shows the
effects of the recent disgorgement with dried
and candied fruit flavors that carry through
from the midpalate to the finish. Those flavors,
however, are light and ethereal at the core.
Overall, this bottle was solid but lacking a bit
of interest. This will need some time under
cork to resolve its current disjointed nature. 91
pointsChuck Hayward
David Pehu
75
NV Brut Blanc de Noirs

100% pinot noir from the grand cru of Verzenay. The bouquet of this deep straw colored
cuve is very closed, only revealing the barest
hint of yeast. The palate, however, explodes
with pure, intense cherry flavors that are light
on the attack but pick up richness and texture
towards the back of the palate. Round and
juicy on the midpalate, the purity and the
depth of the cherry flavors are quite unique.
The slightly short finish is the only problem
here. 93 pointsChuck Hayward
PIERRE GIMONNET
Cuis
With a little over 20,000 cases made per
year, Pierre Gimonnet is the largest producer in Terry Theise's portfolio of
grower champagnes. While this is peanuts compared to the production of the
grandes marques, Gimonnet has managed
to achieve broad brand awareness
among Champagne enthusiasts in the
States.
Like many older grower Champagne
firms, the Gimonnets became wine producers when the Champagne market
collapsed between 1910 and 1930. It was
during this time that lack of demand for
fruit from the big houses left grape
growers stuck without any buyers.
Gimonnet, joined by the likes of Pierre
Pters and Gaston Chiquet, turned to
wine production, selling their wines
locally and in Paris in order to make
ends meet.
Located in the Ctes des Blancs, the
Gimonnet family has extensive holdings
among the grand crus of Cramant,
Chouilly and Oger. However, the foundation of their vineyards lies in the village of Cuis, a premier cru site that
many critics believe should be elevated
to grand cru status. There are no grand
cru bottlings to be had since the estate
prides itself on blending chardonnay
from all the vineyards. The style here
highlights the freshness of the chardonnay grape, leaving oak and malolactic
fermentation out of the equation.
2004 Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut

"Oenophile"
100% chardonnay. A blend of fruit from the
grand cru sites of Cramant and Chouilly with
20% from the family's premier cru holdings in
Cuis. A closed nose shows hints of yeast and
fresh bread. This bone dry non-dosage cuve
has fresh, focused and pristine fruit. Bright,
sprightly flavors of citrus are the core of this
wine, tapering towards a long, elegant finish.
(Disgorged 1/10) 93+ points Chuck Hayward

Reserve"
100% chardonnay. 74% of this cuve is from
the 2007 harvest with the reserve wine composed of the 3 previous vintages. Pale straw
color. The high-toned and bright expression of
citrus on the nose is clean and focused. Although there is a sense of elegance in the way
this glides across the palate, there are textural
elements of ripe citrus and hard lemon candy
that gives the wine a sense of weight without
being austere. Finishes with a hint of woodsy
caramel. 91 points Chuck Hayward
2005 Brut "Cuve Gastronome"
Gimonnet has
managed to achieve
broad brand awareness
among Champagne
enthusiasts in the
States
100% chardonnay. 72% from grand cru sites.

Pale straw color. There is a strong presence of
brandy in this bottling, most likely from a
fresh dosage. Medium weighted on the palate,
there are textural components to the bright
lemon flavors. The finish is soft and light and
fades away gently. (Disgorged 1/10) 89 points
Chuck Hayward

"Fleuron"
100% chardonnay. From 80% grand cru sites.
This cuve has a pale straw color along with
scents of toast and fresh baked bread. There is a
sense of delicacy to the intriguing berry and
strawberry flavors that are precise and focused
on the palate. Just barely of medium weight,
the wine closes softly with elegance.
76
PIERRE PTERS
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
The Pters family has had connections
to the vineyards and the town of Le
Mesnil in the Ctes des Blancs since
1858. Proud producers of blanc de
blancs champagnes, the first wines were
released in 1919 and vineyard expansion followed shortly thereafter. Today's
holdings of roughly 45 acres are all
planted to chardonnay and about 14,000
cases are produced from the grand crus
of Avize, Le Mesnil, Cramant and Oger.
The style of the house accentuates the
minerality and delicacy of the fruit. In
order to preserve those qualities, Pierre
Pters avoids the use of oak for fermentation or aging.

Reserve"
100% chardonnay. The core of this cuve is
from the 2007 harvest. Pale straw color. This
release offers classic aromas of lemon rind that
follow through on the palate but also carries
some interesting pepper spice that combines
with baked bread on the firm finish. This is
currently a bit of a restrained wine with just a
hint of austerity which will be a perfect foil for
oysters or lighter, more delicate foods.
One of the unique stories behind Pierre

Pters is "Les Chtillons," their vineyard
holding in the Le Mesnil grand cru.
Over the years, it became clear to the
family that this lieu-dit produced the
best fruit and therefore deserved special
handling. Starting in 1971, the estate
released their "Cuve Speciale," one of
the first champagnes ever made based
solely on the fruit from one lieu-dit parcel. However, few knew about the vineyard specification until a few years ago,
when the winery changed the label to
"Cuve Speciale-Les Chtillons".
The style of the

house accentuates
the minerality
and delicacy of
the fruit
77
2002 Brut "Cuve Speciale-Les

Chtillons"
100% chardonnay. This cuve comes from the
"Les Chtillons" lieu-dit in the cru of Le
Mesnil. The current bottling is a bit disjointed
as of this tasting, with strong aromas of burnt
toast and brandy leaping out of the glass. This
quality also appears on the back palate where
caramel and wood flavors kick in. With some
air, hints of citrus fruit emerge. Perhaps this
disgorgement is so fresh that the dosage hasn't
had a chance to marry with the wine to create a
more harmonious drinking experience. Some
time under cork should help. 89 points
Chuck Hayward
REN GEOFFROY
Cumires
The south-facing hills of the Valle de la
Marne, one of the five major subregions
in Champagne, are located a short distance from Epernay, the area's second
most important city. This is the home to
both pinot noir and the less heralded
pinot meunier varieties, and it is quite
easy for the vineyards here to ripen fully. Ren Geoffroy and his son JeanBaptiste own about 32 acres here planted predominantly to red grapes, with
about 20% of their vines in chardonnay.
Their production of about 11,000 cases
makes them one of Terry Theise's larger
producers.
Most of Geoffroy's vines are planted in
the well-regarded premier cru villages
of Cumires and Hautvillers. Given the
high proportion of red grapes grown by
the family, it is no wonder that oak fermentation has been part of the winemaking process for generations. The
wines do not go through malolactic so
as to preserve the acidity of the fruit
grown in these warmer crus. Compared
to the wines of Vilmart, Geoffroy's
wines seem slightly less oaky. Nevertheless, the wood component is strong, so a
good decant may be warranted.
found. The palate follows the aromatic traits

by showcasing broad, if simple, notes of fresh
tree fruit and honey. Fading towards a crisp
and delicate finish, a touch of earth and talclike minerals add complexity and tension. 9 g/l
dosage. Disgorged January 2012. Enjoy 20122016. 91 points Chuck Hayward
2006 Brut "Empriente"

14% chardonnay, 76% pinot noir, 14% chardonnay (of which 78% saw some wood aging).
Pale straw in color with a subtle bead, earthy
notes comprise the forefront of the mildly intense bouquet. At the core, intense ripe apple
flavors gain strength towards the backpalate
following an ethereal attack. There are some
broad textures to be found here. The fruitdriven finish is long and soft, revealing good
complexity. A step-up from the basic multivintage bottling. Disgorged December 2011.
continue on the palate along with notes of

honeyed pear, which continues towards the
richly textured backpalate. Unfortunately, the
finish is short and lacks much interest. Enjoy
2004 Extra Brut Millesime

With an open, pronounced bouquet, powerful
notes of fresh earth, yeast and mushroom make
an attractive statement. Emphasizing a masculine shade to the aromas, there are more autolytic qualities to the bouquet than fruit notes.
This can also be seen on the complex palate,
where dried apple mingles with toast and honey. Initially broad and round in texture, the
backpalate becomes firm and a touch blocky in
shape, which continues on to the firm, dry
finish. A touch more softness and juiciness
would benefit here. Disgorged October 2011.
NV Brut Blanc de Rose

2006 Brut "Cuve Volupte"
80% chardonnay and 20% pinot noir (of
which 94% saw aging in wood). The bouquet
here is quite intense and powerful, with baked
fruit along with caramel, fresh yeast and toast,
indicating its autolytic character. The aromas
NV Brut Expression"
13% chardonnay, 40% pinot noir,
46% pinot meunier from 2008 and
2009. This wine possesses the barest
shadings of color along with a delicate bead. Fragrant and open, the
straightforward bouquet may not
offer much complexity but there are
pleasant notes of crisp Granny
Smith apple and ripe pear to be
78

2009 vintage. A beautiful pale, vibrant strawberry color is complemented by a steady bead.
The subtle bouquet stresses cherry aromas
infused with fresh loamy earth. On entry, fresh
cherry flavors leave an airy and bright impression. Not showing much complexity or
intensity, there is still an ethereal, lightmedium bodied note of soft red cherry on
the palate that leaves a pleasant impression. With a fine line of tannin and cherry skin on the finish, this rose highlights
this cuve's fresh fruit qualities. 1 g/l
dosage. Enjoy 2012-2016. 92 points
Chuck Hayward
SAINT-CHIMANT
Epernay
"Integral"
100% chardonnay with no dosage. Pale straw
color. From a freshly opened bottle, the nose
shows pronounced mushroom aromas suggesting that this is a bit too advanced for such a
young wine. Flavors are medium weight and
oxidized on the fringes with roasted walnut
flavors along with a finish that is drying on
the lips. Notes of dried apricot and peach are
placed delicately on the finish. Not austere at
all for a brut zero cuve. This is what I imagine an old school Champagne to be like. While
it lacks freshness of fruit, which is not my
preference, I can understand the style. 88
pointsChuck Hayward

Millesime
100% chardonnay planted in the premier cru
climat of Chouilly. Straw colored, the nose
reveals medium intense aromas of almond/
walnut skin along with the barest hints of
mushroom and brandy spirit. The attack is
subtle until medium-weighted flavors of baked
apple and pear claim an ethereal, light presence
on the midpalate. The fruit flavors are surrounded by fuzzy textures. Not weighty or
large in scale, the finish is delicate and feathers
away. 91 pointsChuck Hayward

Millesime
100% chardonnay planted in the premier cru
climat of Chouilly. Pale straw in color. Subtle
yet fresh earth and mushroom notes reveal a
hint of citrus on the bouquet. Medium bodied,
the attack is light with hints of toasty/yeasty
flavors wrapped around the delicate fruit. We
are not talking richly textured Champagne
herethe textures are light and airy while the
finish lingers gently with a pronounced barrel/
bourbon note. This cuve shows slightly more
complexity and interest than the 2002. 92
pointsChuck Hayward
The Coquillete family has been running

this domaine since 1930 and Christian
Coquillete has headed up the operations
since 1950. Firmly believing that drinking aged Champagne is the way to go,
he has a cellar filled with vintages in
magnums spanning the decades back to
1957 to prove it. His mother also has
wines from the late 1940s and their importer claims that the family has no idea
how much wine is aging in their cellars
below the streets of Epernay.
The focus here is on the chardonnaybased wines from the Cote des Blancs,
and the domaine consists of 28 acres
planted to chardonnay in the grand cru
village of Chouilly with small amounts
of pinot meunier and pinot noir planted
near the Montagne de Reims.
79
STEPHANE COQUILLETTE
Chouilly
Stephane Coquillette represents the
fourth generation of his family to make
wines in Champagne. The familys label, Saint-Chamant, was established in
1930 but Stephanes father encouraged
him to embark on his own so he started
his own winery.
NV Brut "Carte d'Or"

A blend of grand cru and premier cru climats.
The bouquet is composed of forward and pronounced lime and other citrus cream aromas
with underlying notes of almond cream and a
hint of toasted hazelnut skin. Rich textures
here offer a slightly spicy citrus flavor that is
intense and vibrant. Highlighting a fresh style
with pristine citrus flavors, the backpalate lays
down a richer foundation and some structure
of toasty/yeasty flavors and textures that support the classy fruit notes. Very complex. 93
pointsChuck Hayward
NV Brut Blanc de Noirs "Cuve

Les Cles"
100% pinot noir from the grand cru of Ay.
Yellow straw in color. Subtle and restrained
on the nose, interesting Bing cherry and kirsch
eau-de-vie aromas reveal themselves. Some
broad midpalate texture appears with slightly
earthy and almond paste flavors and a hint of
oxidized fruit at the back. Could use more
expressive aromas, though cherry scents appear with air. A bit simple on the midpalate
without much concentration at the back, the
finish shows more dried nuts and aldehydic
qualities and is a bit dilute. 90 pointsChuck
Hayward
NV Brut Ros "Marie Aimer"

100% pinot noir from Ay made by the saigne
process. Pure pale cherry in color. Very noticeable earthy aromatics emerge alongside a hint
of dusty spice. The immediate impression is
very Burgundian, with still wine character
that doesnt show juicy fruit aromas. Ripe and
richly textured, flavors of brandied cherries
occupy the palate with a savory, textured foundation supporting the fruit. Almost tannic at
the back, a small core of fruit is surrounded by
those savory notes that contribute to a long
finish. If served blindfolded, I would think this
was a Morey St Denis premier cru! A different
and unique style. 94 pointsChuck Hayward
80
VAZART-COQUART
Chouilly
As grape growers in the grand cru village of Chouilly in the Cotes des Blancs,
the Vazart family has a history going
back to the middle of the 19th century.
Almost a century later, the family decided to produce their own wines with
current chef de cave Jean-Pierre Vazart
representing the third generation of
winemakers.
NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand

Cru "Reserve"
100% chardonnay from Chouilly, a premier
cru vineyard in the Cotes des Blancs. About 30
-40% of the cuve is comprised of reserve
wines. Pale straw in color with a good mousse
and active bead. The bouquet is subtle, showcasing hints of fresh seashell, lemon zest and a
distinct aroma of pound cake. Medium light in
body, the palate profile is elegant with a subtle
midpalate presence avoiding a big, creamy or
structured style. Flavors of fresh, citrus-laced
fruit are subtle and a toasty liqueur-like note
kicks in on the backpalate. The finish is delicate
and fades away gently. 91 pointsChuck
Hayward
As would be expected given their location, 95% of the domaine's 30 plots are
planted to chardonnay with the remainder to pinot noir. Those grapes are used
for their still wine, bottled as a Coteaux
Champenois Rouge. The initial fermentation for the sparkling wines is done in
stainless steel and malolactic fermentation is also allowed, which gives the
final champagnes a bit more creaminess.
2004 Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand

Cru "Special Club"
100% chardonnay from Chouilly, a premier
cru vineyard in the Cotes des Blancs. Yellow
straw in color with a delicate yet persistent
bead along with a fine mousse. The subtle bouquet offers up unique and intriguing notes of
crme de noisette along with almond. Beautifully rich textures show well integrated flavors
that are almost seamless in nature, such as
dried apple and pear sprinkled with notes of
cinnamon and other sweet spice, hints of citrus
weaving in and out of nutty liqueur. Overall,
this is a medium-full bodied, complex Champagne which weaves elegant, pure fruit with
yeast-influenced structural notes. Delicious
now, a bit more length would make this an
almost perfect bubbly. Yum! 95 points
Chuck Hayward
81
VILMART
Rilly-la-Montagne
Of all the grower Champagnes brought
in by Terry Theise, those of Laurent
Champs at Vilmart have gained perhaps
the most notoriety and acclaim. His
website declares "Just different...", and
that they are. Founded in 1890, the estate produces about 9000 cases spread
across four different tiers from 27 acres
of vineyards planted in northeast section of the Montagne de Reims. Despite
the area's reputation for growing topnotch pinot noir, a full 60% of Vilmart's
vineyards are planted to chardonnay
and the wines reflect this unique emphasis.
Laurent and his father Ren set about
raising the profile of the winery through
improvements in the vineyards and in
cellar practices. They were among the
first to move towards natural growing
methods, eschewing chemicals and
tending their vines manually. Their biggest move, however, was to incorporate
oak into the fermentation and aging.
The premium cuves see small barrels
for fermentation while less expensive
blends mature in larger ovals for a reduced impact on the finished wine.
The use of oak at Vilmart has brought
them justifiable comparison to the
house of Krug. However, Krug has a
legendary back stock of older reserve
wines to add to its blends, whereas Vilmart has just a few vintages as the foundation for the cuves. Nevertheless, the
pronounced oak component in Vilmart's
wines really stand out compared to other champagnes in today's market.
The wines reviewed below were sampled

at Terry Theise's annual portfolio tasting
from traditional flutes. One critic recommended decanting and serving in regular
glasses, not flutes. This may help bring
forth fruit flavors that could more fully
integrate with the oak components of each
cuve.
His website
declares Just
differentand
that they are.
NV Brut "Grand Cellier"
70% chardonnay and 30% pinot noir blended
from the 2007-2009 harvests. The complex
bouquet is dominated by autolytic character,
as aromas of yeast, toast and dried straw envelop a thread of citrus. Broadly textured, the
medium-full bodied palate showcases tropical
notes of mango and banana, nicely complemented by caramel and honey. The fruit fades
somewhat, promptly leading into a firm finish,
underscored by talc-like minerals. Disgorged
December 2011. Enjoy 2012-2017. 92 points
Chuck Hayward
82
2004 Brut "Grand Cellier d'Or"

Pale straw hue. Focused aromas of yeast, brandy and mushroom slowly give way to baked
apple and citrus with air. Medium bodied and
broadly textured, ripe pineapple and mango
notes reference Santa Barbara chardonnay.
There's enough fruit here to carry on to the
dry, firm finish. A unique expression of Champagne, showing a bit more nuance, length and
complexity than the classic non-vintage brut,
but it could use a touch more intensity. Disgorged November 2011. Enjoy 2012-2018. 93
2004 Brut "Coeur de Cuve"

Straw hue, verging on golden. The bouquet is
somewhat closed, but subtle notes of sandstone
create a firm and dry impression. A small core
of fresh, ripe tropical fruit makes up the palate,
surrounded by hints of maple syrup, nuts and
toast, adding considerable complexity. The
fruit on the broad midpalate seamlessly provides the spine for the lengthy finish. This
cuve shows the most balance and complexity
while keeping the ripe tropical flavors in check.
Disgorged November 2011. Enjoy 2012-2018.
2006 Brut "Grand Cellier Rubis"

40% chardonnay and 60% pinot noir. The pale
color has hints of faded copper, complemented
with intensely focused aromas of mushroom,
earth and dried flowers. Pronounced ripe cherry on the attack is supported by nuances of
kirsch and chocolate. The roundly textured
palate gains richness at the back, with the apparent viscosity leaving notes of cherry liqueur
and milk chocolate on the lingering finish.
Disgorged September 2011. Enjoy 2012-2016.
ABOUT THIS REPORT

Tasting Notes
This report expands the foundation constructed by last year's publication. A
number of new articles have been added to the introductory texts and new
wineries and tasting notes have been
included as well. Where possible, new
releases have been added to those wineries reviewed last year but 2012 saw
very few new releases in the US market
as importers and distributors attempt to
move their wines through the system.
Acknowledgments
Nina Scherotter was kind enough to
share photographs from her visit to
Champagne, used on pages 66 and 67.
The tasting notes for this updated report

were assembled in October 2010 and
October and November of 2012. Wherever possible, wines were tasted from
freshly opened bottles, though some
wines were sampled at industry trade
events. In addition, I have added information on disgorgement dates or lot
numbers. This information is provided
to give you some idea about the freshness of the samples that were tasted.
Should you come across a bottle with
different disgorgement dates or lot
numbers, this by no means implies that
the wine you have is better or worse
than the one tasted for this report.
I would like to give my deepest thanks

to Alex Fondren and the JJ Buckley Marketing Team. They accomplished tremendous work editing my essays and
notes under significant time constraints.
This report would not be possible without their assistance.
Chuck Hayward
There are many Champagne houses and

growers exporting wine the US market
and this report was not an attempt offer
a completely comprehensive overview
of every winery. For estates that are not
covered here, there's a very good chance
they will be reviewed in future reports.
83

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2012 Champagne Report

Language of Champagne 4-23

Regions & Vineyards

Cte des Bar A Look

The Saigne Ros Process 18

Corks & Aging

Reading the Label

The Serving Debate

About This Report

CHAMPAGNE: A CELEBRATION OF STYLE

who offer personalized winemaking styles

The future of champagne, however, is

protected its reputation by limiting the

THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE

The Mini-Marques: This is a group of

THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE

Valle de la Marne: Located east of the

There are five grape growing regions

Premier Cru & Grand Cru

grapes each year and those villages with

THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE

When the boundaries and regulations of

Those differences, however, eventually

THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE

In the future you will undoubtedly start

THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE

Another decision that winemakers are

THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE

Chardonnay and pinot noir are the most

Pinot noir is grown predominantly in

While chardonnay is grown throughout

Pinot meunier is largely grown in the

THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE

grown in Champagne along with a wide

THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE

This is one of the two varieties unique to

A widely planted grape in Alsace but

Today, the Cotes des Bar is home to

THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE

ties. Their most famous cuve, "La

in this bottling. Most

THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE

found in Chablis). Dubbed

menteau, 8% arbanne, 14% pinot noir,

Jerome Prevost has made a name for

THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE

THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE

phylloxera Vieille Vignes Franaises

seeds. Ross made in this manner are

THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE

ness levels are arranged in categories.

THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE

and non-dosage cuves to ensure that the

It's important to remember, however,

THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE

Recently, many Champagne houses

Understanding how your ros is made

THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE

fruit from one harvest.

THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE

youthful. The stem on the right cork is

Champagne is best drunk fresh when

THE LANGUAGE OF CHAMPAGNE

CM: Cooprative de manipulation.