Professional Documents
Culture Documents
50
gr *t houses
of europe
t;
Edited by
Sacheverell Sitwell
cities
its
and countryside.
No
which
is
radically altered,
its
age.
is
The
to the beginning
none which
is
ruinous,
forty color-plates
its
country
show some of
less
well-known,
and
classical periods,
The
rich art-collections
figures
all
feature of the
book
illustrated
and described.
particular
is
known
different centuries.
in
as a connoisseur of
Each house
described by
itself
it lies,
is
written
is
The
magnificent illustrations
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Great houses
of Europe
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Great
Houses
Europe
Edited by
Photographs by
SACHEVERELL SITWELL
EDWIN SMITH
G.
P.
PUTNAM'S SONS
New York
opposite:
in the
1961
MIST NOT
BE REPRODUCED IN
PERMISSIpfltf}
61- 9708
Contents
INTRODUCTION
CHATEAUDUN
CAS A DE PILATOS
VILLA LANTE
by Sachevercll Sitwell
The Renaissance
PALAZZO DEL TE
CHAMBORD
Twin
HARDWICK. HALL
CAI
RAROLA
in the
28
36
heart of Seville
44
pavilions in a water-garden
52
60
68
VILLA D ES1E A
EGESKOV
18
Cool courtyards
SCHLOSS TRATZBERG A
Cardinal's
villa
among
Palladio's
charming
villa,
the cypresses
in
....
Danish nobleman
embellished by Veronese
Elizabethan architecture at
Vignola's masterpiece
and cascades
the
its
most adventurous
Monti Cimini
76
82
....
88
98
106
CHATEAU DE TANLAY
ISOLA BELLA
VAUX-LE-VICOMTE
WILTON
DROTTNINGHOLM
PALACIO LIRIA
BLENHEIM PALACE
475
PALAIS
HEERENGRACHT
SCHWARZENBERG
PALAZZO LABIA
THE NYMPHENBURG
STUPINIGI
POMMERSFELDEN
112
in the Seine
120
126
The most
The
all
France
by centuries of discernment
with
its
superb art-collection
fine
example of
The grandson
The
Juvara's hunting-lodge
The
132
140
in
Piedmont
German Baroque
148
....
156
162
170
176
182
190
198
206
BROHL
The
pleasure-palace of an Archbishop
214
The
220
CLAYDON
RUSSBOROUGH
The
SANS SOUCI A
BENRALH
SYON HOUSE A
YOUSSOUPOFF PALACE
QUELUZ
PETIT TRIANON
ARBURY HALL
230
238
244
250
house transformed by
The shade
of Rasputin
Adam
stirs
....
jewel of de
Tudor
in origin,
gothicized
in
the
18th century
268
274
The
258
....
282
290
HOTEL D'HANE-STEENHUYSE
The
LAZIENKI
The
304
312
'A
little
Hundred Days
298
Introduction
'the nobility,
and exacting
this exclusive
book on
castles
trate
in
Empire.
grudging
tribute, as
who must
in
yet
in the
in
illus-
would be that of
then goes on to
it
Hapsburg
of the country
It is a
class',
of a like
critics
the
as
it
would be wrong
upon the
precating words. For, over and over again, their ranks were swelled
and
their blood
much humbler
Rather
origin.
it
if
class or
fine
classes of the
all
their constant
Roman
country-houses. The
DMkLi
of resemblance to our
rina in the
middle of
CASTELLO
S.
GIORGIO,
MANTUA
pagan
its
certain identity of
its
builder -
was
the
still
And
was
and certainly
Perhaps
in the ancient
present
site
in
of the
and had
with
or acrobats - a mystery
Dalmatia,
in
as surely
palaces
girl athletes
scale of grandeur,
which
some points
offered
on an imperial
Sicily,
villa
country
or,
rather, a
its
marine palace.
Byzantine emperors at
walls,
Istanbul,
to see
occupying the
probably
at
in all
Ravenna,
human
it is
it
San Vitale
so, in the
subjects in mosaic,
and
courtiers
ladies-in-
more than
The Chalce
It is
ian
Italy,
1 fJ *
[:.
and
and Vandals,
in
all in
i^ri>n->rr|
with gold, and mosaics with scenes of harvesting and reaping; or the
added by
halls
Macedonian
Basil the
summer
open
retreat
hunting of lions
>n^ji
mmmm
to the
What would we
these!
art,
in the
about 1240,
II
fn
in
of fruit-gathering.
o!
in
?j
is
this a hunting-castle
was half-oriental
in
mind and
Ommayad
ing-castles of the
deserts near
II,
'Stupor Mundi'
habit.
Are we
Caliphs that he
Monte,
del
We
move up
that
to relate
to the hunt-
it
may have
seen in the
had Salome-like
who
II
paint-
now
serves
first
anil the
in
Cathedral there.
the
Apulia, built
a Gothic
ings of
in
is
for
itself,
it
would be
is
difficult
delicate proportion.
Here
could
and spread
all
more
difficult.
palaces.
rw.AV
way among
pro-
is
and behind
its
this
Introduction
illustrating
his
text,
in the
at Florence
Palazzo Medici
Gozzoli.
and
*f-
Europe. By no possibility
to steer his
ico in
M**
selection,
Magi
is
all
What
just
just
down
the street.
We
Benozzo
Beato Angel-
can only
illustrate,
coffer of the
by Rossellino at Pienza,
vius Piccolomini)
built to the
who appears
in
command
of Pius
II
(Aeneas
in
Syl-
the
CHENONCEAUX
ii
James
of Scotland.
Italy
comes Mantua, where the Reggia or Corte Reale of the Gonzaga with
damaged
its
frescoed
hy Giulio
sum
hino.
most heautiful of
total of the
rooms
its
The immense
size of
it
Ur-
where the Gonzagas are hut invoked there must be room for the name
of d'Este, of inseparable association with the arts and with poetry
the persons of Ariosto and of Tasso. But of their palaces
room by Cossa
A .HE
in
transition
from Gothic
it
was
is
exemplified
is
shown
at
doorway,
like
in florid
is
galant
in
the Louvre,
homme whom we
We
it
to
in
order to
know
that this
remembering that
monarch and
this
is
it
can follow
and
Gothic. Or,
we have only
Franqois
its
how
and the
and dying,
life,
in
to France,
Renaissance; just
the Gallic
is
when we
now spread
fever has
it
little is left
in
to Renaissance
in
who
Francois Premier
this
his
built
Chambord.
stairs at Blois,
II
- from France to Spain. For having been defeated and taken prisoner
by the armies of the Hapsburg Charles
of his captivity was spent
in
Mudejar
some
ceilings
at
portal,
The
patio of
this,
perhaps the
hedgehogs over
its
arcades; and
in the interior
are chimney-pieces
which the French king greatly admired, and superb inlaid and gilded
artcsonado
ceilings,
in
Casa de Pilatos
10
of Spain that
we
to
Muslim
in the Civil
or
War.
In contrast to this,
and
is
most
Meshed. Nevertheless,
find in
are,
from Marrakesh
the world of
it
and
in
the
in
mosque cathedrals
It is
little
to Villa
Maser,
Mantua,
at
the
in
Giulio Ro-
all
of
Maser,
Villa
is
by Veronese,
which
combination or
VILLA GAMBERAIA
is
Maser
sublime. Villa
the
summer
is
The
villeggiatura, but of
what patrician
would put
Villa
Lante into the same paragraph as Villa Maser, though here the twin
pavilions have
little
Moors
the four
The same
incredulous
kept
its
may
fountain
is
may
or
really by a
name of
the
Granada.
the
It is
To compare
the fountain of
as at the
famous 'Moss
It
Zen
kind
in its
Garden where
lemon
CEILING OF CHAPEL,
CHATEAU D'ANET
a perfect
The
in
and
parterre,
its
in the
is
a cypress
work
we could
of art.
suggest the
its
parapet, and above those a statue of Oceanus by Giovanni da Bologna; or for comparison with the parterre of the Quadrato, those of
Villa
beyond the green embroidery. But that would be before we climb between the pavilions of Villa Lante to the pagan wood beyond,
shades of
all
ilex,
most beautiful of
The
Villa
Lante
is
surely the
more
The
were an inspiration
fountains,
Roman Campagna
ful portico,
HEIDELBERG CASTLE
Italian gardens.
down
faunal
At
its
and
to
cypresses,
its
leading down,
display of the water with their jets rising to different heights, which
and
little
is
the
reversed and
most splendid of
is
little
a sensation to look
its
at
it
more
Italian
up
falls
left
across
CHATEAU
D'O
in
11
front of
it.
admire
other
in his
mood
of poetic imagination
rooms frescoed hy
are
the garden.
Up
in
\yc
wonders
us for the
in
its
BOLSOVER CASTLE
in
dumb language
and on
ilexes
to
Hardwick
it
Hall, and
that this
of an Englishman:
it
is,
is
I
in
and
think, as a building,
more
and beautiful
who
in its contents, as
We
again
down
to the plain.
we come
beautiful, inside
in its contents.
shall not
and
more varied
or
out,
KNOLE
land
in its
lery which,
when
was
the writer
a child,
Queen Elizabeth
is
in
roof-line.
had four or
and so
Gal-
thicknesses
five
walls,
its
The Long
is
the portrait of
gown embroidered
The Great Chamber which has
by the writer as
'the
nothing since to
make him
in
golden
tatters',
the tapestries,
all
the
CHATEAU DE BALLEROY
ruin in
is
but six
England with
Charles
and
his court
in
when Ben
1634 with
dresses and scenery by Inigo Jones, but burned out soon afterwards.
Hardwick
first
full
who took
is
Renaissance house
is
the
in
It
is,
is
CHATEAU DE SASSY
12
a century later,
is
gilt
to Inigo
is
furniture by
Jones what
Venetian magnifi-
tion,
Wilton; 'Venetian'
Guards
at
and
intent
in
pleasure grounds at
the
in
Horse
Tower
Whitehall or the
To
in
where the
Stuart kings
as
is
state beds
lie St
Louis
first
in
England.
in
is
The
Paris.
Galerie d'Hercule,
by Le Brun,
BELOEIL
has hut the Galerie Doree of the Banque de France to compare with
it
in the
French
The
stvle.
and that
capital,
two
earlier of the
ing played
in
it
gives
is
is
the
is
a halo of
and that
Versailles.
it
is
Le Notre, and we
we
and
the age of
Chopin hav-
beautiful, while
means harder
this
more
XIV
in the full
are
more
built just
in
heart-
before
on the scale of
glacis are
now
fortifica-
to the skies,
but they lack the soul of Caprarola and the poetry of the Italian
garden.
We
the liveries
rooms
to life; while
Orangeries with
Suisses.
Most
of
its
all
home
Roman
admiring as examples of
magnificence the
d'Eau des
Piece
CA'
REZZONICO
full
in
Belgium,
an age.
*&
A:
.s
afloat like
obelisks,
ments.
Bella,
and
Isola
is
Isola
its
its
camellias
Bella
is
..*^S**-
della
Salute,
and alike
and
in
the
in
the
this
rise
is
from and be
the
moment,
at the
reflected in the
too, in
which to invoke
opposite wall.
We
in
fresco
room
Grand
among
from the
to a
little
known
but
13
Clcrici at
his
Barbarossa
throne-room
Royal Palace
the
in
remind ourselves
us
let
Madrid. And
at
that,
Barberini
in
Rome, and
Pamphili
in
in the
his paintings
as
same
gods of
main currents of
was
to
British
delayed current,
But
among
the gods of
it
though of
true,
is
it
architects
date.
influence flowed to
but inspiration to
les,
Palazzo
finest
Palazzo
in the
city; to
light
the
the
in
find
it
timeless
classicism
assign the
difficult to
this
whose
Hampton Court
sis
Palace
is
in excel-
in a
CASTLE HOWARD
to
same para-
ceilings in this
HAMPTON COURT
Marriage of
in
ceiling of the
graph,
the Palazzo
in
phenomenon of another
kind,
most prodigiously gifted and original geniuses of any age. His Blenheim Palace
is
incomparable
Howard
'Nobody had informed me
be well advised to
said of
it:
in scale;
visit
Castle
in
that
in
the world
in short.
fanciful to see
some
latter alone
Eugene of Savoy;
their
different
perhaps not
at
the
at
the
Belvedere
libraries
is
worked
it
London. So
Vienna; but
Palais Schwarzenberg
built
to
to
stairs, as at St
state
its
all
little
houses
MALRITSIiriS,
14
THE HAGUE
Pommersfelden,
its
by the staircase
at
Klostcn Ebrach,
we have
hinted,
hand
in
is
few
both of
them; and
Neumann,
B.
the latter J.
at
Count
Zimmer
Cuvillies, only
(now restored)
deli-
and
intricacies
filigree
many
by the interiors of
Queluz
in
Turin.
The
is
it
in
in
Bavaria.
IIIVS
a delight to
first
it
of his youthful memories, the huge hooped skirts of the Court ladies,
the dwarfs,
He
'the
tells
of
oboe and
flute
and
Ming
of the
is
though that
not chinoiserie,
is
still
slumbers,
unwoken
no comparison
is
in
some
woods of
the high
in
XIV
living
and married
as
style
rooms, a castle of
fifteen of its
Queen abducted by
unless
to Stupinigi,
legal wife
his
was
still
to him.
Sans Souci, and the other palaces at Potsdam, are the best
ting for the rococo of Louis
tinet.
And
their
treasures intact,
if
human
craftsmen being
are the
there
minds of
all
riches
Germans
The
who have
as epitomizing the
inexhaustible
of French
and
fantasies
at
work
in the
Nancy
Place Stanislas at
seen
French
French manner
remain
will
in
the
in
the
it,
style.
Louis
XV
Madame
and
style,
are
that, curiously,
intimate
of this
their
gardens
still
in
is
XVI
style.
monarch
formality
in
it
is
is
The
left,
small
very typical
the state
his
all
COLONNADE, POTSDAM
in fact
capital of France.
set-
XV, strange bibelots for a Prussian marmany French houses of the date with all
CLAUSHOLM, JUTLAND
Juvara, a great
yet'.
made permanent
its
bedroom of
to other
his
great-grandfather at Versailles,
upstairs.
Could we but
see
15
I
I
Country Life
of the age.
little
mood
Lord Burlington
chief practitioner.
its
is
sociated with this Palladian movement, showing the conservative feeling of that 'exclusive and exacting class' of which he was
Chiswick House,
Kent together,
Mereworth
KEDLESTON, THE GREAT HALL
in
the green
In order to
most
the
is
restored,
lately
member.
is
Holkham must
be seen,
its
'Venetian' style at
Houghton. His
stair
but
little
known
its
Adam
Derbyshire,
and
and
its
near London.
seen
Syon
workmanship by anything
in
in
all
these
Europe.
spider-web delicacy at 20
which he designed
his hall
closets or boudoirs at
little
be admired
in tolo
down
to the
afield,
is
sedan chair,
at Kedleston,
in
a pair of grates of
steel,
with fenders
in its application,
The
Suffolk.
VIRGINIA
at
James Wyatt, an
haphazard
MOUNT VERNON,
is
fire-irons,
skill.
be
the ink-stand
baster,
to
manner with
is
His
his talent,
.DAM
House;
landscape
his
at
A,
HOLKHAM, THE MARBLE HALL
44
at
in little'
also,
as,
in
much
his
and
its
in
Northern Ireland,
sical
is
manner. This
in
can be followed to
style
in
clas-
Monticello, and the pillared porticoes of Virginia and the two Carolinas.
in
its
the hanging
Palace.
Badmington
16
may
many
Irish
typical
is
others.
Russborough,
country-house:
County Wick-
in
with
Palladian outside,
rich
admired
to be
is
in
little
where
all
lovers
classical casino
by Sir
the city
in
Lilliputian
There are
curiosities in
go back
to the
more unexpected
to find there,
KRUMMAU
CASTLE, CZECHOSLOVAKIA
Horace Wal-
that
last
on
Hungary, with
late classical
its
room, 'English' park, and memories of Haydn. There are other man-
Hungarian magnates
sions of the
in
same
the
Krummau,
in
style;
and the
rechristened
down from
looking
is still
castles
Cesky Krumstill
on guard
And
theatre.
further
the Youssoupoff
Palace
to Russia,
still
in
Leningrad, though
its
its
garden
to illustrate
former owner
still
as-
finer houses.
Country Life
It
ly pistachio
Michel
in
We
at
return by
work
in
in
That
Haga
in
Norman
workmanship was
Stockholm
Slott outside
II,
in
still
in
who
in practice
Pompeian
style,
proved by the
Denmark, or
has travelled
all
is
is
Country Life
at
Aranjuez,
Spain.
The
is
to be seen at Liselund in
demesne of Cahir
all
photographer,
end
exquisite
style
To
in the
in
green
is
the
second.
Sacheverell Sitwell
17
FROM AFAR,
Umbrian
generous
hills
much
the valley
in context,
music and
like
painters.
rises
from
The impact
in
of surprise
is
For 1,480
feet
you climb up
streets
to the city,
Wherever you
are
in
to
its
Umbrian
Still,
It is a
flying
city
city.
Urbino
east or west,
above
a land of
in
since
in
two
lakes smiling
fields'.
its
the
to the
Duomo
huge central
supreme
The
by
its
in the
rulers.
18
most of the
inevitably,
year 1000
tense - 'the
in
is,
little
(the
Romans
endearingly called
it
Urbinum
lor-
opposite:
I I
who,
in the fifteenth
century, were
its
the Palazzo
greater neigh-
Federigo da Montefeltro,
fortress as
in
to
it
arts,
architect,
embody
an ideal
skilled in architecture
in
in all
in
our
city
of Ur-
The
tall,
it,
front
is
On
each side of
it
rise
From
the
below:
A CHURCH
IS
INCORPORATED
IN
THE FAQADE
beautiful, small
and magnificent,
in
which are housed the art treasures of The Marches, for the Palazzo
is
district
of Umbria.
It
was
in
rooms
these
that the
poetry,
left
carriage
the
of
and
art
his schools oi
entrance to the court are two rooms which were devoted to a library,
to
in
Among
Federigo numbered
distinguished citizens
his
it
is
Raphael
his
only one painting by Raphael, her greatest son, and that, Por-
m.-sm'n
of a Lady,
trait
is
in the large
palace
itself
is
work
the
The
audience chamber.
collection of
very
is
but the
line,
all.
for
gives, even
long centuries
its
was
shadowy dark
life
There
no gloom, no
is
Here was
palace.
light.
light
vigorous intellectual
ence.
Cosimo de Medici, he
encouragement of
left
art of
his
is
greatest
testament.
Laurana followed
the
Romans
From
the
classics
twilights
He
a forest of turrets
and
spires,
off
appeared
it
His courtyards
much of
still
name and
ancient
retain
their
style.
it
Each room
was
is
called
by
originally planned.
its
The
harmony of
The huge
fireplace,
inates the
room.
Urbino stonework.
To
give an impression of
life
and
Botticelli,
fluidity
dom-
Laurana
has here placed the tops of the windows, doors and fireplaces at
regular
lex els.
the
icately
ir-
two rooms
is
the
In the throne
in
windows
the palace,
Laurana used
1705
21
DUCAL PALACE,
URBINO
The
p WW
A MARQUETRY PANEL
the
Mark
arms of Guidobaldo
beautiful
II.
room
Duke
pursuits.
in the
Federigo.
and studious
to
is
the Stitd-
This was
is
this
room
is
made more
room which
gives the
sumptuously decorat-
Botticelli.
The
discreet
Here is a
immediate impression of being lived in. About
the
The most
the
Comes) and on
of St
On
huge room.
to the
IN
by Florentine
artists.
books.
Through
hidden door
in
side.
From
away
here a
to the dis-
Federigo and
his
young
son,
rooms
is
Guidobaldo.
Duke
was Guidobaldo who
a painting of the
It
in
together
in his
own
finally
Papal
became
in a
small
way
as a condolliere
and pa-
tronised the arts and sciences in a most practical and encouraging fashion,
found
itself,
death of the
last
later, a fief
Joyce Jeffreys
22
favourite retreat o
in
enlightened prince
belvw: FEDERIGO'S STUDY, WITH TROMPE-L'CEIL MARQI ETRY BASED ON
DESIGNS BY BOTTICELLI
ii
1
,
THE SALA
DEI ANGELI
25
V
I
MS,
v^
far right:
The
A PANEL
IN
THE SALA
DEI ANGELI
decorative
detail reveals
the Renaissance
X"
26
>*
CHATEAUDUN
IN
J.-B.
NESLE
Chdteaudun
A
fortress
Le
La
Loir, a
little
on
famous namesake,
its
this
commanding
site
in
At
the east
by
is
The
it
was occupied
appreciate the
the
to
building must be
the
site,
fully
seen from the old stone bridge crossing the river below the escarp-
ment.
From
this
and
buttresses,
dations set on the living rock, soar upwards to the turrets and machicolations which
town.
In the twelfth century, the
Dunois, erected the robust circular keep, which stands at the south
built
in the line,
locality
oppotile:
The
in
to a
,
feet thick,
- as
is
the
mellow pearl-
29
CHATEAUDUN
leans, son of
of France,
it
To
1391.
in
now
exists.
the English
from
peace to
his
is
French history. In
in
his
is
one
co-
expelling
in
all
He
in
1402,
of illegitimacy
in spite
From
sides.
was born
early years he
was
supporting his unworthy cousin, Charles VII, against the English, and
for his inestimable services he
grant of the
the centre,
The
work he
first
which, with the aid of his wife, Marie d'Harcourt, was begun
The
exterior, with
simple Gothic
its
by the
lines,
work
the finest
fireplace
is
century,
fifteenth
The
figure.
small chur-
some of
1451.
is
date
many
resembles
in
chapels on either
stone canopied
in the
that comfort
In 1453, the
the country
was able
piety.
at last
reached
its
For
close,
and
and domestic
lines,
an aspect which
it
to deve-
lop during the strife of the preceding decades. Dunois followed the
The
It
design
in
was
is
far
still
from complete
death eight
at his
rooms
within,
were an innova-
security.
Nevertheless,
century,
when
its
is
plain within
and without,
JEAN DUNOIS,
BASTARD OF ORLEANS
it
is
With
its
it
includes
stair at the
lines,
final
was
flower of
a strik-
is
building and gives onto galleries on each floor lighted by the open
30
opposite:
*>
;o*
CHATEAUDUN
his
Began
in
two further wings, on the north and the west, which would have more
than trebled the size of Dunois' building. In the event, only the north
remains unfinished at
this
since
his
its
in
west end.
Gothic wing.
The
Renais-
sance style began slowly to penetrate into the indigenous Gothic style
until eventually
it
submerged
entirely
admirable example of
it.
In
is
introduced.
staircase
The
its
an
its
is
decoration
all
it
is
man-
classical
The rooms
those in the earlier building; indeed the Salle des Gardes and the
Salle des
Fetes,
feet in length.
But
in
THE WALLS
is
wooden beams of
the ceilings,
some of
the shut-
ters are
carved with a linen-fold design; but the walls are bare stone,
and the
tiled floors
below:
32
have
a prophylactic aspect,
highly desidcrable
The unadorned
tine series
in
walls
for a
^a
beneath them stand massive carved chests of much the same date as
Through
the building.
is
the long
La Beauce, which
plain of
away
stretches
for
more than
- A
twenty-live
miles to Chartres.
To
be supposed that
is
and
the truth,
From
a ruin.
in
it
it
serenity
its
and excellent
repair,
might
it
miraculous that
it
whom
with
came
in
it
remained
until
1930.
The
first
in
providing asylum
When
for
many
last
itable.
families of the
fire.
and again
in
1870,
it
to a condition
The
building
1815,
restoration
in
the
M.
a faultless
Monu-
ments Historiques.
Ralph Button
FIFTEENTH-CENTURY STATUES
IN
THE CHAPEL
33
CHATEAUDUN
The
is
chief glory of
Chateaudun
ONE OF THE
left:
ARCHF.I) GALLERIES
35
v2Sv
THE UPPER TERRACE OF THE COURTYARD
Casa de Pilatos
in the heart of Seville
Cool courtyards
>
palace
in
replica of the
Seville.
It
is
(Pilate's
House)
is
named because
so
the
it
in
Duke
is
of Medinace-
supposed
Jerusalem. Begun
it
to be a
1570.
till
at
It
Renaissance
nobleman.
The way
ing
to the
walk through
an enchant-
is
At every
streets.
from the
Casa de Pilatos
is
is
which
is
itself invisible
from the
street. In such a
way have
in
who
Spain - or even
in all
it
was
built,
is
Europe. They
in
weak
the discreet
thirteenth-
died before his time, and whose sons were dispossessed by his
Medinaceli
36
It
became -
their title
Madrid) protested
at
the
Dukes of
being taken
from
every coronation
opposite:
a
in
ASA DE PILATOS
They were
the
ac-
inef-
great
grandees of Spain.
Duke
of Medinaceli possesses
gathered enormous
estates,
lalifimdia, Andalusia
especially
the
in
its
provinces
classical
of
in Seville
Walk
THE CARVED CEILING OF THE STAIRCASE
They have
in
an open space which hardly merits the name of courtyard, and stand
before the real main entrance to the house. This
briefly
arch,
rounded as
Moorish designs
if
in stone.
building, though
Through
is,
marble
its
floor,
Christ-
surrounded by smaller
delicate patterns sim-
way round
begun over
Seville,
an arched
delicate
this
ilar to
superb
is
tiles,
many
of
most dazzling
as the
of stained glass windows. In each corner of the court there are large
statues of Latin
writers,
including an
impressive
figure
made
centuries,
Casa de Pilatos
the
into
of Seneca,
long series of
when
an
It
is,
indeed, not at
all
Duke
artistic salon,
the
Seville in
fanciful to sup-
Zurbaran,
in
may have
the two-faced god, Janus, who, along with his Carthaginian colleague,
38
in Seville
before the
these gods were worshipped in Seville until well into the Christian era;
overleaf: left:
right:
the
two patron
Christian
women who
refused to do reverence to
commemorating
July,
Ruhna and
Roman
The rooms
None
are preserved,
Seville fetid
trees,
therefore exe-
all
now
and carved
gilt
same dazzling
lived
style as the
In the
in.
ceilings,
room on
in
in
the
From
eighteenth century.
windows of
the
accompanied by
maze of
antechamber
this
family
in
governor, Diogenianus.
as her
cloisters.
Salammbo
They were
were two
Justa,
to the chapel.
Here
is
the
the Medinaceli
waits before going into the chapel, and also passes the
room
furnished
is
in
[]
lift ft
masterpiece of brillant
recollection
four flights
is
gilt
in
very
length,
itself is
tiling
From
At
the
all
the graceful
Moorish
campanile next to the cathedral, from which the muezzin, seven hun-
Opening
off
this gallery,
is
Duke
At
bedrooms - and
in the
is
also
English sense of
from Avila.
An
room
adjacent
This house
faithful to
room
Mary Magdalene by Alvaro de Mena, a
family.
the
summon
Renaissance jewel.
It
is
is
domi-
family.
in
it
in their
architecturally
much
less interesting
mansion
Madrid.
Hugh Thomas
>
-?***
*
^ s*
*"
AM
'
ASA DK PILATOS
"
'
Moorish
in inspiration,
yet unmistakably
European
A BACKGROUND OF BRILLIANT GREEN
42
opposite:
1571
#>*
'-->
HV"
AjBI
A\
^
'
^F
tJ*!
THE QUADRATO
IN
Lante
Villa
Twin
pavilions in a water-garden
of Bagnaia
lies
a mile or
on the slopes of the Monti Cimini. At the upper end of the village
small piazza with unpretentious buildings hung with the stone
is
mounted by
on
flight
is
heavily rusticated
the garden
known
as //
We
find ourselves
On
Ouadrato.
three sides
side,
of pilasters.
The
is
betrayed by a
line
of
small windows below the tiled roof, from which rises an elaborate
The Quadrato
Four
basins,
ranged round a
circle,
ar-
broken by marine
genii
crouched
stone shells. Within the round centre, a raised circular basin contains
the magnificent
four
life-si/.ed
a lion
the
44
is
in pairs
with
aloft.
opposite:
VILLA LANTE
The garden
climbs a
hill
thickly
moment
ions
is
Quadrato. Hut
to the
Lante, so far
sance palace.
There
is
no attempt
is it
basic design.
two
pavil-
Renais-
ol
its
simplicity of
ilexes,
from
its
reticence
and the
a decorative
adjunct to the palace, but here both garden and pavilions are planned,
with complete success, as a single composition.
it
is
is
construction
from an
intellectual
North
to
whom
the Villa
Italian family.
He
to
on the
Villa.
is
came
really due,
in
at once
so
Villa's
make
masterly inspiration,
its
in
seems to be generally
agreed that the designs for the Villa and gardens were by him.
The Quadrato, the right-hand pavilion with Cardinal Gambara's name and his punning arms of a crayfish, and the upper garden,
were all completed in a few years. The work however was then suspended and not resumed during Gambara's
and was succeeded
Pope
in the see
lifetime.
in
in
hand the
Villa's completion.
is
sec-
The
Montalto
PAVILION
1587
raine
in
died
below:
He
*^4'*MM3l3Ma*VtlnVV0WV*VHMWM0MIMWiaMMranBtfMPMaMNMMMi
is
ilexes
in
contrast to the open expanse of the Quadrato, but the two are ingeniously linked and the half-seen vistas of sculpture and fountains are
most
effective
recess between
of
two
Roman lamps
in
set
terrace,
first
jets
of water.
The
is
mask
at the
to al fresco meals.
Gambara
grotesque
a magnificent
is
mossy
basin.
Above
this a crayfish
crouching slave.
and the
line
columns.
The
by a
flight
(the
Gambara
of the stairs
is
is
set
Down
the middle
of the steps runs a catena d'acqua, a characteristic ornament of Renaissance gardens in Italy, found also at Villa d'Este and Caprarola.
In the centre of the terrace at the highest point of the garden,
there
a
is
stemmed
vase,
five
crowned by
levels,
jets.
Other,
rocky grotto, half concealed by ferns and overhanging trees and flanked
by two Atlas terms of primitive appearance and with the usual agonized
expressions of their kind,
is
named
Flood.
as the
his
name
is
known
a central
engraved
Through
the left-hand
loggia one enters the 'Secret Garden', surrounded by hedges, low walls
and
a
lines
monastic
To
(still
it
cloister.
in
Among
these
is
in
number of
the Conscr-
bearded masks.
The
largest
is
at
Bagnaia
lies
close
KITCHEN
IN
47
a balustrade
a high
balustraded wall against which are set busts of girls on top of huge
consoles. In the middle
is
nio Barberini,
I. ante
Duke
to
confirmed
in the
Ippolito
in
We
for
have
a brief
XIV
American Duchess,
Gambara
it
daughter of
Thomas Davis
who
on
in
grant
the nine-
in
the latter
gives an inac-
guests,
New
of
down
it
its
pavilion,
and
bestowed
Anto-
to Cardinal
family,
York. The
while the
George
fall
Dr Angelo
of
Rome. Most
Cantoni,
who
48
(..WII'.ARA
its
damage from
has restored
full
bombing
Allied
it,
by
in
1944
now belongs
to
beauty.
Anthony Ilobson
CREST
opposite:
VILLA LANTE
#
^^c^-rw
THE VILLA
IN
1609,
The
three elements
of Lante
are stone, water
and sculpture
opposite: THE FOUNTAIN OF THE MOORS,
ATTRIBUTED TO GIOVANNI DA BOLOGNA
Irfl:
/<*;*.*
^v
:>?t
>.
<w'^w'.
.'
*:
.w
?s
w.
v-
**.*
4*
* <**
*
yw*
..,-.,-*
***
fi*
SI
OJLtii
rss|w
Schloss Tratzberg
A
date
inscription
'1500. Veit Jacob and Simon Tiinzl, brothers, built the castle'.
men mark
portant chapter
it
into
fell
guards,
in the history
oblivion.
bailiffs
the beginning of a
It
of the castle.
had been
The
new and
artistically im-
small boundary
The
before,
fortress
where
active north-south trade route that led across the valley of the
to the
Italy.
The
site
How
The
of the valley as
boggy
fields
passage through
Tratzberg
imilian, the
it
future
decided
fell
victim to a
lire
in
the
the province of
two brothers
devastated castle
to
the
to
one of the
irol,
to
Inn
into a palace in
all
in
Innsbruck.
In
most
rebuilding
is
no doubt that the Tiinzls were keenly aware of the flowering of the
Renaissance
!/r:
in
Italy,
Till:
many
trade relations.
VALLEY OF THE
IW
It
53
can be seen
in
particularly in the
work on
still,
ol
The
of an unusual
magnificent
fur-
skilfully
late Gothic.
two
In
the rooms, the so-called Maximilian rooms, the walls bear dates
owners of the
and partly by
castle
their guests, as
were
the walls
if
frolics
as
house.
Even
Live, do not
And
die,
Must
journey, do not
Wonder
am
that I
A COVERED STAIRWAY
is
powerful pairs of
hall.
feet.
antlers,
and backed by
House of Hapsburg,
of the great
walls
the
probably dates
wall,
so merry.
know where.
as sconces
for candles, and at night-time, the dark, powerful bodies of the stags
and
Hapsburg genealogy.
to
mercy of
at the
new owners
lortitications
flanked
with embrasures for cannon ami the strong castle walls were easily
convertible to defence.
sudden escape
in
number of
secret exits
time of emergency.
One
of the beautiful
hidden
livingin
the
in
George
Simon Tanzl's
is
and
to
1554
it
listing,
to business losses, he
who was
along the
WIFE
ANNA: WOODEN STATUETTES IN THE
CHAPEL DATING FROM 1508
1 1
the Tanzl
the panelling of
was obliged
to be completed.
in
son,
hillside,
Tratzberg became
wing and
the Arch-
Tirol,
Renaissance palace,
Renaissance facade to
it
extending
Inside, he redecorated
IS
in
Austria. It
is
said that
it
its
kind
in
seven years and seven months to construct the coffered ceiling with
its
this
54
room
is
in
THE ARMOURY
flat
From 1589
to
it
its
days
upkeep of the
for the
sufficed
So they chose
their predecessors.
big,
old
The
house.
both privately
castle
and
priest's
officially,
priory
modest
its
in
re-
owners
saved the castle from the decorative tastes of the Baroque period.
When
the priory
from which
it
was abandoned
1790, Tratzberg
in
in
into a sleep
who broke
village
fell
into the
famous armoury
When
The
deserved.
first
be influenced by the
might have
treatment,
The
steeped
in
again received
all
the
new
in
zeal
of
Tratzberg
the
a
VapsSSpS
perfect
hunting groups,
large
from
his time.
is
neo-Gothic
for
setting
castle
for
his
descendants.
I
found
castle
in
in
the peaceful
MANUSCRIPT OF H08
RECORDING THE CONSECRATION'
OF THE CHAPEL
landscape
atmosphere
Franz
II
'indisch-Graetz
SS
TRAT/BERCi
The
a
s
right:
56
THE.
HAPSBURG FAMILY-TREE
IN
i:
ecorded on
its
walls
TRATXBKRO
Each generation
has
left its
legacy
to the castle
opposite:
1589-1657
below:
^<^^^
rVXNM
;*%
d.-/
;7?
Palazzo del Te
now
'Chambers of transgression,
the palazzo del TE
untidy
all
As you approach
to
iest
surely of
is
feel that
design
is
simple,
it
its
came
like a
scale
small,
is
into being:
there by
in
it
it
was
is
And
four-square
itself,
so,
all
more than
little
through the
it
flat
in at a glance.
it
forlorn'/
purposes
it
of
its
was
in
maimed
Gonzaga of
of Mantua, decided
city.
pupil Giulio
ruling
of the
fish-ponds and
its
Its
his
name,
fifth
Marchese and
to build himself a
design
later
Romano, with
Duke
first
to
Raphael's
itself
eighteen months; then the decorators set to work, and for the next ten
The
progress of the
work can be
ot
60
commending
his
letters
traced
in
the
Gonzaga
addressed by Federigo to
performance or chiding
his delay,
archives,
his archi-
and
mass
oppnutt:
INSIDE
THE LOGGIA
PALAZZO DKL TE
No
artist
the
<>i
Among
first
his
assistants
Rinaldo Mantovano.
score
was the
ol
the
in
what he did
'Pleasure-dome'
it
is
is
and
scale
in
name
Rather,
design.
in
is
it
summer-house; yet
it
of the Trianons;
it
is
aspects, severe.
some
thirty
just
almost,
dignified;
made
buildings
corlile,
The
and
solid
Round
of golden stone.
outward
its
measurement
its
range of single-storey
by a
enclosed
in
inner
the
facades of
broken
frieze,
into
this
series
windows look
and
six
four on
only
northern side
the
on the southern, and the eastern and western sides are almost
The columns
blind.
courtyard:
the
into
life to
The
't:9n* Sy*"
rf'
'
|t
Su*t~ MM
U,7r> /rir.3 f
wriUrA.
*s Mi/
r"*
""*
.* '
lency
is
if
up
it
in
annoyed.
is
when
can
feel
can receive
The
is
greatest
myself
to
when Your
Excel-
can
know
glory
And
may lock me
be in your favour.
be
to
deep rectangular
fish-
fac-
a pair of
like a
lies a
stretch of
away by
of a
Roman
rounded arches,
a plain
yards
fifty
like a
fragment
fnt
*H-^Kt^ frrntv
* tl f*tf*
^ -*jSW fM<^
a simple
ffy-"*-"*
Hvrf
through
is
T'/ifr-r*r
a loggia
La
entrance
of water that
made music
is
fell
in
ami
cascade
little
rooms enclosing
garden
walls,
its
corlile,
its
back
now
was
waste of grass;
in
the
it
in a
empty
still
fish-
stretches
eastern end.
In the interior,
the palace
since
esedra at
is
little
from the
It
a single
sides,
any design
at all.
corlile.
of the other
all
For
across,
passage-way to be seen. In
upon perishable
no more than
effect largely
floor;
these
round the
there
is
not
feet
staircase
or a
plasterwork that
fine
still
marble
cling
Federigo
grand Roman
in
doorways have
lost their
letter
moulded
ceilings,
and delight
to
palace
the
Sole,
rooms
the
Sala
Medaglie, the
delle
luxury
entirely hare.
is
O **"r
and
frieze or over a
inscriptions along a
lew
the
to
frescoes and
the
fire-places,
T
i-ii.
'
r<
w
L
tll
Sala di Cesare, the Sala di Fetonte - there are only two that achieve
more than
may
merely decorative
effect;
statu! as representative.
riot
If
it
it
beauty of
his
not a
scene,
its
memory
Mantegna
has a
figure,
the
in
to life;
in
ceiling.
at his
in
or dignity or
life
which
Even
as a decorator,
Tiepolo.
The
The
non
effects:
piii
exceptions are the Sala dei Giganti and the Sala del Cavalli.
si
orribile e
the
in
spaventosa
di qaesta.
feet square
its
grotesque
[ere Rinaldo
Mantovano has
scale Olympus
who tried to
any who might have
the house of
for
(not
designs against
only thirty-six
is
it
por-
windows, doors,
ceiling,
in
in
vain contortions.
it
has a
fine
work
marble
in
ot
it
too
is
unique,
The room
art.
is
the
whole chamber
Rinaldo's
is
the
fire-place
and an elaborate
grisaille
dom-
series
of
life-size
portraits
(for that they are actual portraits one cannot doubt) of six splendid
horses.
tural
They
piece of
rounded breathing
reality
in;
in
room
or,
indeed,
in
the
whole palace. They record the glories of the Gonzaga breed of horses:
Federigo's stables adjoined the palace,
still
and
just
more
real
than
On
summer's day
it
is
Gonzaga Court
(9
IN
PLAN
t.(*4L4f
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*.*"
tb*fj<
og$t|i*iHi mwiwift
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CEILING OF THE
GROTTO
IN
Emperor Charles V
Dukedom
the
of
himself"
visitor
15.30,
in
when
- or taking
his host
Throughout
the
sound of water,
High Renaissance
Mantua
fell
it
flies'.
century.
It
Te was
in
was
in
to
1630 that
Han-
to time as
nothing of
will,
And
is
it
all
perhaps
in
autumn, when the mists are rising from the marshes, that the deserted palace inspires the most genuine emotion, bringing to mind
line
to describe
now
forloml'.
John Sparrow
64
'
'
"
fame*
k
gift
////.
THE
above:
SAI.A
DELLE MEDAGLIE
A DETAIL OF
65
PHE SALA
in
HI-
CAVALLI
THE ALA
DEI
Te
CIGANT1
l^MTj^^
J
--
itf"*
J'
\
-!
^a'. A
v
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/If
<
W-^tt
Chambord
A
unfortunate
in
losing the
remarkable palace
with which
domain
still
its
its
it
founder envisaged.
site;
fortified
structure had
stood here from which Joan of Arc set out for the siege of Orleans.
The
ing
was
to be purely a
Maison de
for
its
only
It
was indeed
in
his build-
to be a hunting
exceeded
mind;
in
it
remained
by Versailles
and
Fontainebleau,
Henri
though
III in
after
1589
it
the
was
little
river
to
to Francois' purpuse.
hunting
fill
1519,
the
in
The
Touraine, and
the
68
IS
:\ t
wv
I u.
I
Jfk
)--<
JI
I1jl:i-
t\ m* *\
.1
ii
It
ii
?!
Illll
II
II
II
II
; ii
"illll
ii
GflilJUi
iUMILi
L*44;**a
'yw. p"y yy
,
ft
ak
b1
CTIAMBORD
France remained
in
determined
that of Italy;
men
and
in
at a deplorably
make
to
the preced-
<>l
low
From
level.
to this
the
lirst
he was
which could
artists, sculptors
rival
and
1516
in
to
is
bring his
illumination
to
the
the original plans. If so, the design must have been radically altered
as building proceeded, for the chateau
conception and
the
is
emerged
as an inherently French
The
rides
A DRAWING OF FRANCIS
I BY HIS COURT PAINTER
CLOUET
usual approach
is
The massive
structure with
end of an avenue
its
its
filigree
detail
Bourre stone
From
is
lirst
supremely dramatic.
ol
this
as
in
which
it
is
built
punctuated by four robust circular towers, the true form of the building
is
on the south
courtyard.
is
side,
Here
where
it
form of that traditional feature of FYench mediaeval buildkeep - a keep of Cyclopean proportions, with a huge round
in the
ings, a
tower at each corner. The wings, which extend the north facade
to
the
to
come Irom an
and
tect,
yet
in
the
Each of
Italian feature.
the three
in the
floors
upwards of two
At
continued
in Italy,
French chateaux
in
the central point rises the staircase which, with the fantastic
the
is
is
This apartment
a spiral stair.
centuries.
in the
for
divided by galleries
is
rooms, one
main
Greek
Each
Italian archi-
upward
sets
Twin
Renaissance.
Here
there
is
in
its
decoration.
And
yet
it
is
is
From
now
carved ornament.
riot,
strictest rules
rise
riot
it
detail
The
of symmetry.
fact the
is
thus
into
indeed,
floors,
on
to
earliest
roofs are covered with fine grey-blue slates, against which are outlined
and
chimney stacks,
tall
ings
crestings,
and textbooks of
Italy.
Above
tumult
this
rises
to a height of
fleur-de-lys.
building could
was
in captivity in Italy.
However, on
An army
still in
XIV
of an
in
Chambord and
progress
The west
in
i'.iiijiii
this
was removed
for
was
till
work
of eighteen hundred
roofed, while two years later the east wing was covered.
death, and
in this
fact
in
By
the
first
use.
arm of
fine suite
of
fi
71
2S
and
the remainder oi
in
chateau. Louis
XV
ture of which
was
who had
fering severely
the
dedicate taste of
it
to his father-
come
inconveniently
his
the
little
CHAMBORD
quality which
give these
from prevalent
tar
is
now
pictures,
to
France
made governor
he was
until
at
indulge his
to
taste
Soon after
This
illustrious figure,
departure
Stanislas'
in
almost regal
life
down,
it
was
At
carried on a train
in
Chambord
fully occupied.
Revolution
the
of France,
service
the
in
Here he
1748.
in
but
style,
in
more by
said,
Marechal de Saxe.
of
had
which
chateau,
the
returned
was
was used
either
with
Small
title
of Prince de
stature
and unaccus-
the
in
was singularly
lie
wrote
their children;
from
The
Princesse
tie
in
and
less
window
a
it
Chambord. At
to
live
there.
who
in the
Bamberg
palace at
Wagram
in
who was
to
Hundred Days.
anil heir of
IN
ill-suited to the
vast
estate
1809.
in
A DORMER-WINDOW
furniture,
as a prison. It
the
to
or burnt,
sold
tomed
oc-
to
the
known
henceforth
infant grandson
as the
young prince
Comte de
left
France
with the rest of the royal family, and did not re-enter the country
till
forty-one years later, when, after the repeal of the law of exile
Chambord -
came
His refusal
all
for ever.
to Paris
in the hall,
and
in
the
little
in
satin-lined coach
his wife.
The
women
France with
of
Prince died
IS 83,
in
and
1930 the chateau and domain were acquired by the State from
his heirs,
opposite
Henri V; the
France again
left
XIV
,,
Ralph
,,
I Jut ton
73
XIV
cn.winoRi)
The
staircases are
A TCRRET-STAIR
IN'
among ChamborcTs
right:
A MORE MODEST
Tt RRET-STAIR
greatest glories
;::iilj::iHa^
THE
THE FOOT OF
<;ROI'N!>-l>l.AN
WITH
IIS
TWO
FLIGHTS
Villa cTEste
A
among
Cardinal's villa
piazza
in
is
modest doorway
with vaulted arcades of great beauty and simplicity round three sides,
on the fourth
side,
these has
is
ularly successful,
The garden
a further series of
facade
is
is
The
an arched portico
in
is
partic-
down
to
From
the
sole
upper
broad balustraded
>,?>t,<i/r:
Its
76
central hall
figure of
a lower
rooms.
On
architectural feature
with
frescoes
and fountains,
rooms.
a series of high
its
floor,
the
On
One of
this
recalls
We
ter-
grotto with a
lirst
time ap-
are on a hillside,
'T**,
,,
*R.
w.&>
'
...
Y"
.
r*~
^
s*t?
1V
i
"
J/i
"5 J
<HS
>
VILLA D'ESTK
the
right
arc
pink
the
towering
the garden,
roofs
tiled
cathedral.
Below
oleanders,
lemon
its
the
ilexes,
an
and red
walls
mulberry campanile of
the
Rome. To
first
and the
Tivoli,
and agapanthus
trees
variety of greenness
infinite
of
the
ol
from
The
The upper
row of stone
'Way
the
set-piece,
first
of a
Villa's facade
side
Hundred
Fountains',
narrow
is
form
fountains, in the
ol
lull
is
width
basins.
The
mouths with
jets
fall
more magical
their
in
Fontane
is
is
the Romelta, a
the hillside on
two
levels.
hoof.
From
built against
is
his
it
cavities in a vast
in
fall
below
to pass
curved
terrace.
From
THE PORTICO ON THE CPPER TERRACE
Two
from
icent
jets',
the central
observes
is
Dr De
Vita
down
the balus-
end has
was inspired by
honour of
single night in
in
that this
it
family,
("in
in
The arms
breasts
their
at the
Dragons. Leg-
the
sudden
visit
built
grouped
swamp
spewing water
to squat eternally,
concentration of
full
their pea-
sized minds.
The
last set-piece
jets.
At one
against the
end,
a single
from
78
at
the
native element.
surmounted by
his
foot,
in
heights
It
facade,
familiar
from
increasing
fountain starts
in
is
two
in
storeys.
the centre.
Neptune
muscular Neptune
The upper
terrace.
the
on
is
of
cliff
famous
series
is
he austerity of
of
drawings by
Fragonard,
is
at the
Duke
1509, son ol
in
of
Pope, he hoped
empty
vain
in
Governor of
distinction of
The
monastery
first
in
clearing the
houses were
forty
tunnel was
dug through
the
into a
During the
was obliged
make
new
Pontificate of
and
to retire to Ferrara,
the
subjects.
River
water
Vineyards,
hill
to the fountains,
site.
destroyed to
highest
with the
off
Aniene
grandson
Italian ruler,
residence.
suitable
olive
at
was commissioned
Milan
tion
I,
ol
Papacy. Fobbed
the
for
Alfonso
in
was not
1560 that
till
new
were
work on
at
the
frescoes,
to
for the
1571
In
work,
to finish the
but the Cardinal died the next year and his grandiose scheme has never
been completed.
Cardinal Ippolito
or
in
default ol
any,
left
to
Deacon of
the
the
College of Cardinals.
death
in
to
Under
them.
their
tures
were
fell.
passed, through
to the
Iapsburgs.
orders, he was
infatuation of
in vain,
er's boy.
The
sculp-
ENTRANCE COURTYARD
rooms
for the
in
the Villa in
teen:
Maria Beatrice
summer under
suite of
it
in
was given
property
gift of the
filched or
enjoyed an Indian
who was
when
Archduke Ferdinand,
and the
in
it
still
by no means unattractive to
Olga Janina,
compositions. Cypres de
In
Italian
State.
sixty
and
women
holy
in
from the
I.is/.t's
la
There
life.
As memories of
d Este.
his
J "ilia
residence
we have
his
two evocative
as
garden-
la
/'ilia
enemy property by
the
Anthony Hobson
COAT-OF-ARMS OF CARDINAL
II'l'OLITO
D'ESTE
79
VILLA D'ESTE
<
<
s**^to
L
'
"
:';-
IrkM
HHHIHIHI^IH
THE FOUNTAIN OF Tin; DRAGONS IS SAID TO HAVE
BEEN CREATED IN A SINGLE NIGHT
'MM
MM
right:
**
80
<#
K.'
The
water
reates an architecture of
its
own
81
(J
~f~
s\*r
m
~
-?:
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*
*-~'.
,V*"^
-?
at!
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'!?
4
-*4
i;
jH
t
'
'**-
*v
*l
.-1
\T*
cm
*\.>>
THE
IN
1730'S
Egeskov
The proud memorial
the DANES believe that
lived
in,
and so
on
the
this
it
So
is
site
name
if
tions past.
Danish nobleman
of a
it
is
with
many
all
owned them
for genera-
Denmark,
farmhouse was
first
in
Bille iirst
built
1533
In
and today
estate,
is
it
the
From
the village of
Kvaerndrup
a noble
door of the
castle.
On
This sheet
ot
is
BrockenhtlUS,
who
pointed Martin
of,p sl t,-:
site
acquired
reflected
from the
Egeskov much
whim
was chosen
ot
lor
rich
PILES
ot
in
little
its
lake.
almost
patron or
defence,
Egeskov by marriage
warm, ancient
by
1545.
his
Frauds
lie
which he
apat
83
EGESKOV
IN
DENMARK
The
and had
castle
lake,
Denmark,
was
on oaken
built
piles,
The main
of the castle
shell
an unsettled time.
of drawbridges.
in
feet
thick,
complicated system
composed of two
is
call
booby
suspension bridge gives access to the east front of the castle, but
the
main entrance
as
is,
it
traps.
doorway
1880, was demolished thirty years ago, leaving the west front as
classified as
is
- Niels Krag,
who
laid
It
is
in
the
It
is
officially
manner of
past
Hi lie,
right:
84
it.
who
age
left:
An
until
lived at
who
is
one
of
the world's
most celebrated
big-
game
hall,
hunters.
visiting-cards in the
the tradesmen
The rooms,
might be expected
as
in a
IN 1880
styles
and periods of the past four hundred years. They range from the
sternly
cellars,
and designed
utilitarian
to
Of
tower
course,
lies,
its
respect, for
it
is
each year, he
is
times that
Egeskov has
wooden man. He
is
treated with
some
Eve
given clean straw for his bed, the castle will sink
this threat in
former
at Christmas.
is
the
tomb
of Frands Brockenhuus,
whom
he acquired
memorials to the
under which they
nestle.
Brockenhuus and
if
many
his heirs
utilitarian,
in
Denmark
should be thankful.
Ewan
Butler
85
EGESKOV
M
i
fl
'ifl
CAST-IRON STOVE IN
THE PARLOUR
private
house enclosed
in a fortress
87
Villa
Palladio's
IN 1874
Maser
Barbaro,
charming
embellished by Veronese
villa,
crosses the
is
once conscious of a
at
is
tall
cam-
paniles silhouetted against the foothills; gardens are filled with sculpture; even the villages are built with dignity
more
fruitful,
legacy,
its
more than
and
half after
equalled
Villa
in
as
its
From
soil itself
cultivation denser
a century
and the
extinction,
the
Lake
of
seems
is
the
of the
Garda
a thick
Among
world.
It
is
all
of them,
The most
is
chi
better preserved.
agreeable approach to
Maser
is
by Giorgione
in the
country road.
The
Maser
is
hill
famous
altar-piece
of Asolo crowned by
the left of the road, seen through a railing flanked by stone figures of
opposite:
is in
shield. Jupiter,
On
the right
SIDE-PAVII.IONS
is
in 15
SO by Palladio as
89
Neptune and
The facade
a long
is
two
of
support a
77
mm
were intend-
jiiOQ
n
- -
Rome, with
Virilis in
frieze
Villa.
estate.
U-iU hi
buttresses.
a lively
the
The low
movement,
silhouette,
is
to
strikingly in
of trees behind.
its
rhythm
architectural
At
hill
its
white-
emphasised by a plantation
garden
is
stucco,
THE VILLA
harmony with
ness as well as
PALLADIO'S PLAN OF
Barbaro,
for
Piano Nobile.
whom
the
Villa
was
RISE
cultivated
families
of Venice, which
office
early
as
in his
He
land from 1548 to 1550. Shortly after his return, he re-entered the
Church and became Patriarch of Aquileia. Marcantonio was Ambassador to France from 1561 to 1-564 and to Turkey from 1568 to
1574. There
now
is
to be accepted that
seems
it
it
to build a villa
is
art,
was
the
first
originator of the idea; and the choice of architect and artist was
certainly his, as well as of Alessandro Vittoria for the sculpture.
of the
villa is
On
At
THE
CHAPF.I.
IN 1580
as the Sala di
all
the garden-end the top of the cross has been divided off to
from which
rooms extends
to left
rooms
a line of
form
is
open
his
among
dom-
work of
assistants,
survived.
Only
'the festoons
1646, have
now
cellent condition,
Handsome
in this
in his life
room have
ceiling, describ-
and seem
to
a special gusto.
Sposi are the only architectural features inside the house, but the cycle
of frescoes follows an architectural plan which harmonises perfectly
The
more
allegory,
statues on
gilt
in nich-
Each room
is
made
to
appear an open
hall,
convey the summer riches of the mainland - no doubt the season when
he was at work.
the skies are blue; clouds appear only as a necessary support to the
divinities
Autumn
are personified,
THE
'NINFEO'
91
I
3
Around
in
the
ceiling starts,
painted a bal-
is
down
at the visitor;
glances across her at a small boy, the six-year old Alvise, her third
son.
On
puppy and
a parrot.
On
the op-
a stu-
dious boy clothed in black and reading a book; and twelve-year old
Almoro,
and fondling
gaily dressed
a hunting-dog, with a
monkey on
The
final trompe-l'ceil
the suite of
is
On
ed, flushed
latter figure
is
figures
depict-
is
From
herself.
traditionally identified as
and
Veronese
is
breath-
taking.
The
beyond
statues
round pool,
is
ornamental pebbles.
On
is
the
partly
fourth
two youthful, and two mature, Atlases. In the centre an arched grotto
god and
contains a river
niches
aphorism
in
classical
died out
in the
of Venice.
sion
The
nineteenth century
of a
though
still
with
Five
satyrical
rich
his restorations
more fortunate
hospitality of
its
was
many
in
were
some
the wise
and
in
who
preserved
it
lovingly,
instances ill-judged.
It
has been
Giacomelli,
in
industrialist,
Maser passed
family of the last Doge
Manin, the
each
figures,
a pool.
The Barbaros
to
tactful
care,
Marina Luling
Buschetti
Volpi.
Anthony Hobson
93
w
f
f \\I
\:
HIS VIVID
right:
DOWN
95
&
'
below:
The
is
opposite:
THE SALA
UI BACCO,
Italian
countryside
reproduced indoors
'
if
-5
>
iii
i*
Fry
'VIS?'
-r
Hall
ck
Elizabethan architecture at
most adventurous
its
most Successful
'the
and best preserved of the great Palaces of the Elizabethan Renaissance'; another, 'the last
Hardwick
ular'.
in fact is both,
and
its
attraction
is
finest
it
England was
and
moment when
ec-
flat
a distaste
find expression in
all
their Renais-
Hardwick
is
Hardwick
wall'.
in
the
opposite:
comparable,
late
is
windows of
feature of Perpendicular
house.
The
reflected
at
glass than
Hardwick were
Perpendicular churches.
as
99
HARDWICK HALL
in a
country house
The
j^
-erf
^*T
.A-A.V~f>
of lardwick was
as
.1
builder
who married
a squire's daughter
England, was
richer.
Her
Queen of
the
Cavendish, does not obscure the fact that she was a tough scheming
woman, but
-1
*;&
25gl
much
-cer'
as
money. In addition
to
lard-
eo7 J
are
rtsu
#L^l
whom
from
F
*'7i.
ec*/'-->3
made
additional resources.
the building of
month
later, in
Hardwick, only
a stone's
earlier
now ruinous, where she had been born and to which she
had already made ambitious additions.
Though his name does not occur among the accounts which
mansion,
iaj
7 a- *-U^f **
-'
yatfowt Wit
**
TT
W iry w ^
!
"
ISfiWh
On
her architect.
many
Hardwick to
widow
herself must
On
left
and
was
it
providential.
first
vast estates
HM
Hardwick Hall
passed
[AH
by and
it
hundred and
Changes
transformation.
little
years
fifty
fashion
in
1 If
I'
it
suffered
ensuing two
'
Cavendishes
who
succeeded her.
One of
it
Trust
in
1949.
its
time
Hardwick
are
surmounted with
aging
its
the
formal
crenellation
At
sunset
it
is
shimmer of
of
tier.
from thousands
is
largely
of
sits
is
The severe
is
100
AT HARDWICK
rectilineal-
wonderfully
PORTRAIT OF ELIZABETH
The
notably compact.
initials
set
ES
off
(for
among
At ground
by
level the
two
salient
scrolls.
in
this
Perpendicular design.
Though
tine
common to most
- hall, Long Gallery, and Great Chamber its own way unusual. The hall is perhaps the
Elizabethan houses
Hardwick
each at
first
England
in
runs, counter to
in
is
to he treated simply as
features
an entrance
and
hall,
its
axis
the house to the hack, though the conception of the usual hall 'screens'
is
retained
a line screen of
in
fireplace
is
notable
example of those
renowned.
is
work of an English
plasterer,
are native.
many examples
In
collection of
leled in
is
in derivation,
Ahraham
It
plaster overmantels
Flemish
arms.
Hardwick
of the
in
and other
work throughout
house
the
The
Mary Queen
of Scots.
Lord Shrewsbury
is
needle-
Bess of
it,
Though
(the Countess's
SOUTH WING.
'E
S'
The Long
Hardwick
to the gallery at
Montacute
in
Somerset, and
its
it
is
runs at
<r
second only
Bess of
Hardwick bought
in
Mary Queen
next to the
Long
Gallery,
in
is
in
England
To
Sacheverell
alone, but
N,J
-ri
in the
tries,
and furniture,
untouched, and
it
is
it
its
in
now muted
V|-.
of contact
unfading, the
chase proceeds under green trees and Diana holds her court. Beneath
the frieze the story of Ulysses
is
which the Countess bought two years before she started building.
marble
the period,
comparable
is
in
like others
this
at
respect
strapwork characteristic of
Hardwick of
to
the
The
great fireplaces
at
Bramshill
in
Hardwick
in
II stools
By
101
HARDWICK HALL
tion.
On
weave
that has
known
else-
more
is
felt in
nowhere
else so
is
surely
decoration,
its
immediate.
panelling or
its
Room
it
must
its
plaster
its
elegant,
all
its
is
house with
great windows,
house of shadows.
Even
the garden at
Hardwick has
in
approved the
its
Between yew
still
exist,
lay-out.
Robin Fedden
opposite:
BEDHEAD TAPESTRY
IN
sAi
'*1
^
*<lW\
^
'
.*
'
L^i m~*'
^
-
&
ft*.'-'
I'
'Tf^M
4*
'1
P.
5*
$
f
pi
6JPV
ff
:*<)>
HARDWICK HALL
IN
ABOUT
1580
Caprarola
Vignola's masterpiece in the Monti Cimini
the monti cimini,
thirty-five miles to the
the
modest
down which
village of
hills,
lie
reaches a gorge
the
Lake of
Caprarola
is
built
on the
At
On
Vico,
one
grey stone
hillside, its
stands the
hill
vast bulk of the Farnese Palace, reddish gold in the sunlight, dominating the village like a lion.
The
surroundings
is
unique
dramatic impact.
in its
who
III, at
Naples. But
this painting,
his
built
Cardinal's
own
qualities.
Caprarola,
is
familiar
his
its
his generosity,
were
down
in the
at their lowest.
It
commanding
position they
had attained
106
it
would be
opposite:
,.'
^V/
CAPRAROLA
RISES
fortress softened
by the humanism
i
of the Renaissance
THREE STOREY
it
it
too far from the capital; and the wildness of the country both guar-
felt the
may
be,
The Bolognese
who had
it
harmonised with
architect Vignola,
in
Rome,
in
March
was commissioned
1550.
The
tress, a
in
site
hill.
The
building
corners. It
live
is
for-
pentagonal
bastions at the
is
bridges, one on the faqade, the other leading to the garden at the
back.
The
architecture
severe,
is
its
austerity.
An
recall-
was
An
palace.
From
From
windows
ground
in
floor, the
The
is
to the
in
Roman Emperors.
magnificent circular
staircase, the Scala Regia, in the left angle of the fagade, leads
the
ground
Superbly proportioned,
it is
Walls and
Vitruvius'.
related,
call
him
from
it
is
provoked
'a
second
brothers.
The
troduced
in
their
compliment
to the Cardinal;
was nursed by
It is
is
One
grotto,
TTT-irrrr
VIGNOLA'S ORIGINAL
hung with
in
stalactites
and sup-
CAPRAROLA
drama
oak-woods
From
From
Pastor Fido.
//
fountain.
sets ot
Hows from
The
is
it
another parterre,
hill,
surmount-
a grotto
car-
Caprarola
which
is
it
it
at the time of
guards,
its
needed to imagine
On
completion.
the lower
in
is
in
lilies.
Horsemen wheel-
all
was
and
office,
guests.
and
cellarers.
On
But the centre of the household was on the Piano Nobile, where
and
Montaigne -
collected or
in
1731 the
brilliance, for in
last P'arnese
Bourbons.
and the
of Italy
it
The Farnese
Ferdinando,
lived in by the
in
ed to
of
Caprarola's
and thence
to the Neapolitan,
to
Nap-
state.
The
visit
the
now
particularly for
villa
was
collections
final
Duke
is
visit
in the
les
the Cardinal
his intimates.
is
need-
it.
If the first
impression of Caprarola
is
amazement
at
its
size
and
wild surroundings, and the second of admiration at Vignola's resolution of the peculiar difficulties of the site, this should not blind us to
its
architecture. It
is
landscape setting of the Italian Renaissance school, based on the principles of Vitruvius,
to achieve the
harmony of
ideal proportion.
Anthony Hobson
110
IjJir
Hudf
W/
JvImSn _ja
JHn^Hi^a:
OT
5BI
PARIS IN
'F'
Hotel Lambert,
A
house on an island
President's
in the Seine
Je
la laissai
enchantee
lie
CORNEILLE, struck by
he Menteur
Up
how
different
Henri IV,
to the reign of
it
had
heen waste land visited only by strolling players and archers; washer-
women
in
green pastures. In
ent-day aspect.
less
it
linen,
was
assume
its
pres-
finished, the
roads
outlined, all these being at right angles to the back-bone of the island.
Louis Levau worked there for two years - probably with d'Orbais, as
is
now
that he built
Baptiste
Lambert
was
Chambre
opposite:
site
his
22nd December
brother Nicolas,
who
in
IN
THE LOUIS
XVI STYLE
113
livres.
He
at a million livres,
and
was implicated
was taxed
saw
Foucquet
in the
trial,
his
enormous
tax,
however, remained
landowner, and
The
Le Brun.
Chambre
of Louis XIV.
main courtyard
Rue
Saint- Louis,
The
fruit loft;
first
we
flight
is
left,
its
penetrate into
and the
1685 mar-
the
in
paid the
Alexander Bontemps,
He
hall,
the coach-houses
library, under-
The ceremonial
mount by
floor
amazes
us after
whose two
its
flights
and
a naiad, attributed to
recent restoration.
in
We
of stairs wind on
Eustache Lesueur.
The
steps
'is
Charles Le Brun'.
It is the
first
monumental work of
who
Five windows look out onto the garden, opposite recesses decorated
Mazarin Gallery of
with landscapes as
in
sister building of
114
the
HOTEL LAMBERT
115
poop of
the
in
a ship-of-the-line.
ses,
Van
in
reces-
bronze stucco by
decoration
richness of the
is
not
is
still
moves
visitors.
One
open upon
salons,
Room
of the Muses,
is
.1 polio
the
This
in
is
the
Moon
in
her chariot
form of
a picture.
in
the mansion
116
final
touch
in
that
undoubted offspring
the
it
Farnese.
of the Galerie
May, 1692.
the 8th
lis
when he died on
it
life in
who
Emilie
tie
of Emilie
a
in
1729.
in
1739,
In
little
Florent-CIaude,
Breteuil,
is
to introduce Voltaire.
room on
the upper
house
made
In
'Mme
for 200,000
francs
wife,
To
speak
inexhaustible letter-writer
du Chatelet has
livres.
his
The
floor.
died
It
how
is
what
happily
is
it
just
a
in
to
IN 1740
neigh-
come about
has
two millions
cost
bought
that
build
and ornament'. The beautiful Emilie's fancy for the author of Candide
lasted
As
bert.
early as 1744,
it
farmer Marin de
la
Marin de
lover,
Edmee
1776.
in
la
that she
it
was
let to
was sold
20,000 francs
at a loss of
Haye
died childless
de Saint-Marc, occupied
Nephews and
his
in
and
to the tax-
fervent art
residence until
own death
the
building,
and
in
1809,
the
Comte
<FP IF3?
It
What
its
F.N'CR.WIXGS BY 1MCARH
humble functions
in
France. In
in
city
May
Adam
their Library,
it
install
the
the
nineteenth century,
the
he heirs of Prince
Adam
ile
which
in
from the
Room
of the
ot connoisseurs.
Rene
1 1 iron
de
"die fosse
CHARLES
I.E
BR1
N.
LOUIS XIVS
cofRT PAINTER
17
HOTEL LAMBERT
irilERCri.E
recovered so splendidly
Till
fr
*-
UN.
from
temporary decline
THE LIBRARY
XVI
CABINET
Chateau de Tanlay
A
in a
right,
Petit
gateway
in
To
it,
themselves
lincl
church on the
side, a
ation. Passing
yard.
street, a
in its centre,
elaborate rustic-
the right, a similar wall hides the older - and in itself very
beautiful -
farmyard
court.
To
the left
is
moat,
the obelisks which flank the bridge, the gate-house and the chateau.
owner
its
at the time of
layout and
Intendanl
its
el
building,
Michel de
round towers
and
rectangular
its
Michel
corners.
the
at
Particelli,
Particelli.
tie
following year.
The
1642 and
reconstruction
was
set
Le Muet
work
to
the
its
money
into a great
work
of art. After
marquis died
ter,
the
five
covered
120
Comtesse de
The chateau
tiles,
the
Tanlay family
is
la
since
1704.
now belongs
The
to his
last
daugh-
Chauviniere.
built of
warm, yellowish
domes having
a shiny
opposite:
'
TANLAY
metallic.
courtyard
is
side.
corporated by Le
Muet
in-
Muet
all
is
triangle-top-
Tanlay
makes
surrounded by
amazement.
full
It
it
is
water from the Cistercian Abbaye de Quincy about two miles away.
canal - at rather a strange angle from the chateau -
The
functional but
surroundings.
tive wall
is
the
in
it
and
away,
Tanlay has
is
a feature of Particelli's
not only
is
as
call a
without.
white
a decora-
chateau-d'ean.
The
hall,
entrance
richly ant-
lered, leading into the pillared Vestibule des Ccsars, white again,
room of extreme
THE GROUND-FLOOR PLAN, WITH
(B)
THE
HALL,
(C)
classical simplicity,
its
the towers,
La Tour de
la
is
its
strength and of
its
size.
ol
The
on the
ceiling represents the court of Charles IX, dressed - and undressed brothers,
all
as mythological characters:
Admiral Coligny
is,
fresco
appropriately,
Nep-
is
trompe-l'aeil.
in
first
22
w
THE GARDEN FRONT FROM THE NORTH-WEST TURRET
right: THE DOME REFLECTED IN THE MOAT
Coligny days,
fine
simplification of taste
is
is
superb,
Regence, Louis XV, Louis XVI. There are eighteenth-century Savonnerie carpets on the Boor, eighteenth-century curtains are
and
are
all
some
tine
among many
chandeliers and,
collection of
arrangement has
perfection oi
torically
painted
la
Comtesse.
porcelain.
The
Everywhere
taste.
The
members of
chapel
M.
le
the family.
local
The Tanlays
the
1793
There
its
hanging,
markable
in
still
arrest,
during
this
December
Robin McDouall
THE CHATEAU
D'EAU, BY
C.
SAUVAGEAT
below:
ITS
One
of the most
attractive chateaux
in
Franc
A CORNER OF
Till
MAIN SALON
TANLAY
in
HE QUEENS BEDROOM
IN
TROMPE-LTE1L
125
t.
-i|
mQQ
fr^
^1
llrrrij
Isola Belld
.
Sj&A
-+
MMMP
MMi^M
[SOLA BELLA
sola BELLA -
the very
memory
gardens hanging
a train.
in terraces
of our
glimpse of
first
blue-
and
cheon was added the saintly halo of San Carlo Borromeo. But for
all
their saints
And
perhaps
was
it
memory
in
Borromeo, great-nephew
have
to
of his
to the saint,
the
like
prow of
ship
was
designs,
first
Barca laid out the gardens, but nothing would satisfy Vitaliano Bor-
romeo
until
in his service to
live
was completed.
it
on the Borromean
islands, families
who
for
the great
towards the
is
all
inhabitants
local
towards
his
party
is
From
custodian
the
woman
to the
her
selling
on the quay,
laces
from the boatman plying between the island and the mainland
the
which
bringing
It is
Now
When
completed.
to his trattoria,
is
in
rich
on the
tourists.
he declared that
all
to
money
finally
money
sufficient
not only to restore, but to finish the palace on the plans left
by Fontana.
his
first
It is a
modest entrance
The
great hec-
tagonal building which rises three storeys high above the water
same
in
is
now
Rome.
in
other Borromean
in its
full glory,
woman, depends on
its
villas,
is
in
the best
setting
and
its
dress to give
The
THE BALLROOM
128
follow
camellias,
the
terraces
sheltered
by
and pavements
its
charm,
same
theatrical at the
which
stalls
time,
taking part
is
play.
coloured
off
the
in
the boat,
act of
first
the brightly
women
wash
singing as they
of Foga/./.aro,
idylls
grandeur
its
which culminates
On
now we
first
we are
realise
impact
in a
somewhat
is
of
shock:
is
it
only
villa,
entering, the
From
country gentlemen.
a hall sculptured
decorated with weapons, we pass into the throne room, where three
Borromeo dispensed
centuries ago a
name of
justice in the
court.
a
came
time he
quarters at
as a
picture gallery.
first
came
Bella: the
victorious general,
Mombello;
turn held
somewhat disappointing
master of
all in
a foreign
Emperor
as
a large retinue
of the
of generals and
their stronghold of
Angera
honour, at which Grassini the leading diva of the Scala sang his favourite arias,
was on
and gratitude.
in
life-size
fit
in
Europe and
Then just as we
we come upon one
pompous
state apartments,
small unpretentious
of the
charm,
room
this little
in
introduces a
human
mind
the cardinals
if
note
in the
the artist
somewhat
had wished
arid
to re-
And we
in
by the long gallery hung with Flemish tapestries which leads into the
gardens. For
it
is
only
in
Borromean
we
answer to
by generations
from
129
RIBBON
the mainland
it
distracted
On
Wagner
had
among
sudden
the terraces
flight
Wesendonck menage.
Writing to Mathildc Wesendonck from
of the
and
all
in
of a sudden
marvellous that
still
'As
already
order to be alone.
it
me
It
knew
was
felt
knew
could not
is
last.
At
in
is
a lovely
It
described
the place,
was
my
he
Venice,
need of
dis-
summer day
a
feeling so
last
and what
you'.
tempted
to
romean
islands,
tier
upon
tier
murmur
in the
Joan Haslip
m II
:.-'
ISOLA BELLA
EIGHTEENTH-CENTURY ENGRAVING
below:
IN
youth.
and
They
of Vaux-le-Vicomte,
represent a
first
still
it
in full
idea of
at the
dawn
marked by
its
is
because
their talent
had not
come
France
their perfection,
bloom unfolding
perfect
in
all
to maturity.
in
1641 at
the age of 26. But he waited fifteen years before undertaking the
would
live
it
was only
in
artists, writers,
The
'Benjamin'
of the team was, at 28, Girardon, and the oldest Nicolas Poussin,
at
They were
in
comparison.
fill
at critical
jurists to
influence on
still
use
first
its
opposite:
who
ethereal
draperies;
Le
133
VAl'X LK
VICOMTE
1658
Till
AGAINST WATER
Notre, greatest of
all
AN' 15
HEDGES
Louis Levau.
But of
all
XIV was
^GES W
KE REMOVEI5
He
of the drama.
and
had always
18 in 1656, and 23
and
relative destitution
complete with
edifice
Mazarin,
it
The
Cardinal's luxury
is
to
compare
own
his
his
modern improvements,
all
his
in
built
by the Super-
intendent of Finance.
Through
the people. It
hands of the
was
advantage of
the
latter
too
much
this,
trial
which was to be
his
undoing. For a long time, his relations with Mazarin and Colbert had
his
The thought
that the ostentatious display of his wealth might be ill-advised did not
cross his mid.
The work
Vaux-le-Vicomte progressed:
at
1657:
pavements
1660: The
ceilings
In
1661
sovereign
work
set
and excavated
to prepare the
illuminations,
in
great
pomp
of water.
the
young
most dazzling
Le Notre
time
this
fete ever
it.
known. All
the Super-
displays,
On
King was
at
Vaux,
On
rested, imprisoned
later.
Louis
XIV
and sent
pursued
to Pignerol,
his
was
the
ar-
transported from the park to Versailles and the Tuileries, and the
left:
135
VAUX-LE-VICOMTE
paving of the salon taken to the Louvre; he seized the tapestries, the
brocade furnishings, the pieces of
and most
It
is
and admir-
their friendship
active
live
Eventually,
Henceforth, Le Notre,
silver-gilt.
Madame
to
ted herself in vain efforts to secure his liberation. After the death of
who
dec-
orated the faqade with his coat of arms; where, however, the celebrat-
still
coping.
The
Vaux was
third purchaser of
The
above:
LE NOTRE,
WHO
LOUIS XIV
WHO
THE PROPERTY
SEIZED
FOUCQUET, WHO
COMMISSIONED THE HOUSE;
above Uft:
Praslin,
restoration undertaken by
it
Due de Choiseul
the
estate
sale
and was
bought by
to the lat-
ter's
admirable
made
The
and A. Duchene
architects Laine
in
Vaux
whose lower
a hill,
is
the
slope, sup-
little
higher up, stands the great and gilded statue of the Farnese Hercules.
Leading
turf,
to
this
decorative
whose lay-out
conceived so that
is
may
it
flowerbeds and
flight
of steps. Looking back from the foot of the steps, only the chateau
is
visible,
the Court of
Honour
ing,
like a fan.
it
known
side, the
its
is
rounded end,
Thus new
the steps,
had thought
The
the
dome.
size,
and
principal
To
right
two transversal
on the other
the whole
park
a third canal,
is
who
in a first
glance from
visible.
room of Vaux-le-Vicomte
and
of very large
is
furniture.
Not much of
the original
less
The splendour
of Vaux-le-Vicomte
is
is
their choice.
it
a particular grace.
Jacqueline de
36
Chimay
opposite:
THE LIBRARY
*,*l/*,, *
timm*'**^
iiiii^IIO'
sa
''
^^^*1
ras
'.
VATX-LE-VICOMTE
The magnificence
A BRONZE STATUETTE OF HERCULES
of the interior
its
friendliness
138
right:
XIV
>
l i
-o
wL
Km,
**'
-o
^\
ms&~
^\>
f/^\"* hiH.'jri
1660
'
:
ii
1633
Wilton
A
classical
all
the
It
knew
to be
ings
and
triumphal arch by
Sir
The
It
was
solid,
tested
and unassailable by
tides
in
of
a classic.
opinion remains
we cannot allow
the
Tu-
more value on
James Wyatt
ition
the original
to rebuild
it.
we would have
did those
set
who allowed
1544.
William Herbert,
first
built
the
The
intellect
140
Here
the
and genius
in
Elizabeth's reign.
here and
it
opposite:
'
WILTON
new south
front in the
Italian
In
style.
1630s
spectacular garden was laid out and the Italian front began to
The garden
part of
The
we
front
see was,
until
well as
intrinsic merits,
its
however,
that
its
Mr Howard
history
On
own works
come
to
working
architect then
was,
it
He recommended
who
It
French
was de Caux,
south
the
built
of
front
front
It is
odd
in fact, to
an applied portico of
Corinthian columns.
six
to think of this
famous faqade
vaster composition.
When,
Civil War,
in
mere fragment of
as a
of character
originality
unknown
it
for reasons
less
window with
able Venetian
In
1800
in
the war.
in
to
Wilton;
pupil,
it.
In
Designed to
new
became the
figures
it
old.
is
to
Webb, with
we owe
the
flat
its
own
Emanuel de
rich
of
ceiling with
Chevemy
lire-place
still
his school,
cream-coloured
comes
a plaster cove,
is
Edward
Pierce,
is
curiously un-English:
man
and elaborate
was
his relative
the great
It
busy to come
Vandyck and
family portraits by
wood up
to
fire.
insolence he called
and
focal
to us a sort of
casket of carved
equilibrium.
who had
in
is
commanding
it
meant
this
in
and
it
1648 or 1649,
in
and
shield
its
see today;
was
celebrity
to Wilton.
As
all.
It
in
not
is
in
I,
is
Oxford
Colvin, the
third Earl to
now
least -
(it
At
the
in
it
now appears
the King's
is.
supposed to be a complete
lately,
front
classical
rise.
there.
is
it
is
too,
that
in
The immensely
it
reminds one
at
had prevailed.
After
Jones's
touched
this architectural
name may
till
In
1705
lire
visited
it
again and
gave the eighth Earl the opportunity of rebuilding some of the older
part of the house.
142
still
exploit,
He
first
of the great
English collections - and formed the major part ot the art collection
as
it
exists today.
The
last
phase
in
in
Jones, but he respected nothing else about Wilton and set about a
replanning
vigorous
whole
the
ot
fabric.
He made
He
mam
brought
new
lolbein*
the old
done
all
it
the classical
in
man
any
readily than
we
it
style
his
Wilton into
Wyatt had
which he could command more
it
into
a cloister.
If
still
it
(indeed, the
from
make
saw
1913-15
some of
years
He
made
in
it.
modern house,
is
fit
certainly admirable.
Wilton today
it
is
we
enter.
traverse his cloister and proceed to the great interiors of which the
Double Cube
is
interiors stand
comes
last.
dows of
rooms
is
these
the
climax.
The Jones
a stretch of
to the river;
or-
IN
Wilton
The
ing and
of
is
it
it,
Andrea
signed by
Palladio.
Andrea
There
at Wilton.
is
(though he did
portico,
turning
it
inside out
to
while
this
in
is
the
first
in
of the
the time
practical that a
however,
in
whose was
mind
'Palladian' bridge
It
is
seen
in
which the
He
will
number of impor-
know
brilliantly original
for certain
notion of the
was born.
on the axis of the house but at the end of a path running beside
Thus
it
is
in
lie
it.
become
aware of the Jonesian faqade. lie approaches the bridge and, from
its
facade.
lie
will
Me
deep recession.
river, the
lawn
Me may imagine
He may picture
the
the
formal knots, tortured hedges and statues of the third Earl's garden;
he will be happier with the lawn. Standing here he
the
way
in
which a scene so
classical, so deliberate,
may
reflect
upon
so complete, has
time
John Summerson
THE
44
BRIIXJE SEEN
FROM THE
SOl'TII
FRONT
VANDYCKS
IN
A PERFECT SETTING
The Double-Cube
inspired by
Inigo Jones
right:
'A
J.
1
<
IN 1694
Drottningholm
The white
when,
Hedwig Eleonora
of Sweden
site
on which,
eighty years earlier, King John III had built a small country house
for his Polish wife. She intended that the chief approach to her
made by
palace should be
water.
The
new
still
in
less
glide
its
away with an
surroundings,
the great
of Westphalia, signed
powers of Europe.
It
Vasa Kings
in
Europe.
to
among
as they
in-
tor inspiration.
Tessin's design
in
was time
XIV
apprehended. Swans
of Louis
first
lies
The Treaty
is
start-
was
in
the classical
French tradition,
of
Drottningholm
Straight paths of
opposite:
I).
K.
are
orderly,
symmetrical
and
civilised.
EHRENSTRAHI.
149
DROTTNIXGHOLM
Nicodemus
The
in
is
the
it
work
in
two
and the
hitter's son,
Carl Gustav.
name
greatest painter of seventeenth-century Sweden, and the Gobelin tapestries are of the
of
added
in
same period,
to the palace
licit
sister
and embellished
it
the
in
is
Baroque
without
style
down from
the walls.
The bedroom
of Gustav
III
would be
is
its
prin-
feature.
to the palace
Castle',
is
It
was brought
below:
!?i
GARDEN FACADE
-wr cs
known
site
in
with
sections
from
the
fash-
all
The
its
upper storey, so
the
most modern
to
It is.
full
architects.
however,
typical
daughter
ot
life
in
built at
cesco Uttini
Drottningholm.
was imported
An
tiring of amateurs,
resident troupe ot
was
in
tirst
octagonal room
Italian
year
the
later,
engaged
first
theatre
to reinforce the
panies delighted the Court and set out to train Swedish actors.
In 1762, as their Majesties
watched an opera,
the
The
at once
building caught
to safety.
lire
immed-
Undaunted,
new
theatre.
Flis beautifully
The
is
It
interior,
as simple
and
Swedish manor-house
is
be accomodated on
still
bear the original place-cards by which the seating was regulated with
helixw:
IN El'ROPE
1740
DROTTXINCJIIOLM
THE GALLERY
DECORATED
KING'S BODYGUARD,
IN 1694
Master of
numbered from
staff'.
Maestro
much
The
holm
same
the
accession
When Queen
1955,
Hallo
in
II
of Eng-
Drottningholm
at
in
etiquette prevailed.
of Gustav
III,
1771,
in
life.
Un
Elizabeth
Musica
Hi
opera
similar
'valets
//
Horse and
the
Drottning-
established
The
King, a benevolent
in
a gifted playwright
and an
Under
at
Gluck's Orpheus
his inspiration
During
it.
a great part
THE ALCOVE
IN
the
in
With
the
which are
murder of Gustav
still
legendary
the lights
became
to
went out
a
Drottningholm
in
in
lumber-room. Then,
ningholm
Sweden.
in
in
1921, Professor
Agne
Beijer
last
The
egetable store,
came
to Drott-
among
the rubbish in the old theatre. Beneath the dust and cobwebs he found
52
The
in
opposite:
l lrika
1768 by the
and Gustav
Italian
Donato
\* B
i
&< S
'
-.
". "^S^w^
v-
******
'>-*'
'
'
Id net
,,.<"""""
IIIMIM MHMMIMMMIIII
"^
N<
x
.
% t-L^^-
tf
wtWuli
DROTI M.M.HOLM
changed
in ten
Thanks
to Beijer, the
Drottningholm theatre
opened
their
1949 season
at
opened
Company,
the
first
eum, housed
is
again
with
filled
a strange coincidence.
Theatre de L'Athene
in
Paris
be
talk
to
Ma-
fifty
French troupe
same play
in
to visit
1699.
The
Sweden, had
theatrical
mus-
is
in
the
in
European theatre
as does
no other museum
in the
world.
dotte
line,
lived in
first
Queen Consort of
the Berna-
last
country residence
///:
life
in
1950. Every
summer
it
is
of the Royal Family, the park one of the favourite resorts of the
people of Stockholm.
The
palace
it
is
hut
Ezvan B tiller
A CHINOISERIE CABINET
154
Palacio Liria
The Alba town-house
with
superb art-collection
its
into the
(a
its
of
title
Duke
of Spain to the
James
II
of Marlborough). This
first
in
of Liria
Duke
the
Came
Spanish honour by
Philip
Duke
it
first
Duke
War
last
1802 (celebrated
line in
titles
The
Palacio Liria
is
in
the
la
Princesa.
It
was begun
from the
street
by
large and
Doric columns
in the
The
is
a granite
a large light
side.
pediment.
room, decorated
THE
SAI.A
ITALIANA
de Vos,
oi
the
chase.
157
Bi
room, the dining-room, the print rooms and the duke's drawingroom, and the small room of showcases normally belonging
Duchess.
wards
to the
The remarkable
Second only
to
the
in
bedroom.
rich ducal
of paintings unequalled
is
paintings
are
to the
the
all
in the rest
Gobelin
tapestries
manufactured
of Spain.
and
the
in
workshops of Madrid.
The
Alba
in
in the
Montijo and her four sons, and Dona Maria Palafox Marquesa de
La/.an.
illo's
I5Y
GOYA
very
There
is
ing galaxy
is
man
portrait of
in this glitter-
There
is
Duke
of Alba) by Win-
158
Mur-
collection
of Alba,
an unknown
terhalter.
Duke
century,
with the
Duke
first
of Alba,
comprehensive
Caravaggio,
Velouns,
le
Duchess of
Liria).
it
in
all
sister
in
Of
in
politics,
somewhat
He
also
rid,
but
palace,
in
in his
l.iria
part
all
gather-
in
museum and
the paintings
right,
last
who found
Duke
himself
later
He
last cabinet.
Ambassador
London,
in
in the
part
on several occasions.
War
was bombed
own
reluctantly,
and succeeded
Godoy,
estate.
residence,
sister's
many
and her
ing together
and heir
sister
War
the
Mad-
its
Duke
original
condition.
1 1 ugh
Thomas
59
IWL.U'K) LIRI A
A Museum
within a private house
THE STAIRCASE
IS
.'/n**H,
1717
Blenheim Palace
'England's biggest house for England's biggest man'
BLENHEIM PALACE,
arms and
borough.
the
first,
its
monument
to British
From
is
architecture
was conceived
as an elevated
is
St Paul's Cathedral.
The house
name
bears the
(anglicised
Duke
of Marlborough and
in
England by
this feat
of arms,
Queen Anne
announced that she would give the Duke the royal manor of Woodstock and replace the ancient palace there by a
new
building.
The
Duke was allowed to choose his architect and he chose Sir John
Vanbrugh, a man of forty-one - soldier, wit, playwright and, by
some favour of which we know little, the Comptroller (under Sir
Christopher Wren) of the Queen's Works. Vanbrugh's experience of
architecture
hall
was
small.
He
had
shire.
Duke
He
was accepted
as a genius
made
two men -
to
Hawksmoor, an
know now
in
White-
York-
in
more fortunate
Blenheim, and we
house
choice.
been
to
his
Nevertheless
enough
is
to
really
build
due to
collaborator Nicholas
62
opposite:
BERNINI,
AND BlILT
IN
1928
BLENHK1M
a
in
The
define,
classical
Blenheim moves
classical architecture of
power of
ticulacy for
its
of the
Roman
five
its
in
rhetoric. Classical
Blenheim
is
an affair of two
less
left:
JOHN
CHURCHILL, FIRST
DUKE OF MARL-
BOROUGH; above:
QUEEN ANNE;
left: SIR JOHN
(which
VANBRUGH
164
IN
is
in the
is
angelo-Bernini
in
is
drama
the
is
fifty-foot
is,
it
intends;
and after
all
it
is
is
in
the
main ap-
house and
its
windows are
Cathedral nave.
The
Observe how
fact.
in
in the
The
or impost.
no wall-space. All
is
moves forward
portico
articulated
column
pilaster, pier,
is
movement of
in
is
piers, not
in its elevation;
in
is
maintained inflexibly on the horizontal plane, and then too on the ver-
The
tical.
reappearing on
pediment,
the
if
through
its
sharp points of another pediment - the sharp points only, like the
crags of an antique ruin; for this second pediment does not belong
here but to the roof of the hall, rising behind and above the portico.
This
is
while
it
shocks
it
convinces. It
is
that
is
ordered
and
first
columns
in
but with an inscribed attic instead of a pediment and thereon the marble bust (captured at
Doric either)
runs through the whole of Blenheim but does not always declare
It
itself.
is
lower windows.
on either
of the wings
projecture
first
to the
emerges
in
with a
double
stops
side,
wheels through
It
six
the
bays to another
double beat, turns, halts (a slower double beat) and enters the towers.
Emerging,
open
in
An
a
it
surmounted by trophies.
distyles
this
his
expressed
found
later,
him as
ment,
than
'the
this
in
there
it
different terms.
in
his
'bold
architects'.
Here
at
more room
his
in
Blenheim
any other of
is
generation
flights
Shakespeare of
Sir
is
move-
this
more evident
which
to exercise
it.
Tuscan
and
to a
stable courts;
Or
its
lively articulation
pressive in
its
from
own
ordon-
- perhaps the
right on
the
first
its
is
ex-
(very naturally)
way
into a
French
textbook.
Notwithstanding
The
sky
this,
it
is
may
be to stare
unmoved
interpretation of light,
and
visit
it
fullness of light
under a grey
It
needs the
late
THE GREAT
IIALI
165
at
all.
Then
heim one must share Vanbrugh's and Hawksmoor's passion for the
Roman
able; one
must
akin to a
Roman
its
house and
chitect's
hall with
see* the
it
is
is
above
all
in the hall
and
rooms
things an ar-
Long Library -
at
remember
for
a lifetime.
As
little
need be
said.
from
It
criticism
left
building in 1705-10 to
starts with
its
how
him with no
the tragicomedy
Duchess did
live
almost to
umn
of Victory
acres of land
that
it
was
it
with
in its
difficult
improvements
ever,
in the
Hawksmoor returning to
Duke's memory and a magnificent col-
finish
to
The
two thousand
utterly complete
two - the fourth and the ninth - who made the attempt; but
ironically
the fourth
Duke were
bitterly
Duke
BLENHEIM
in
These changes were not in regard to the house but to the gardens
and park. Vanbrugh's conception of the house had naturally enlarged
itself into a
ury inherited from Versailles. Before the entrance front was a great
garden front
a parterre
unequalled
in
England.
canal beneath
with too
it.
much enthusiasm
dissolved
it
away.
The Blenheim
indifferent landscape of a
has
its
qualities. It
was
umental
and
it
ditch.
was
this
landscape today
park 'improved' by
'Capability'
an
is
Brown.
artificial
lake be-
Duke
in
new parterre
It
in
Navona, Rome.
itself to
Nor
has Blenheim
background of notable
in
its
events.
250 years of
Except indeed
one - Sir Winston Churchill, grandson of the seventh Duke, was born
there in
1874.
John Summerson
left:
BLENHEIM
IN
1745,
BLENHEIM
far right:
LIBRARY
THE LONG
,**
475,
PHILIPS, 1770
4 J5 Heerengracht
A
fine
example of
NUMBER
beautiful
Dutch
patrician
town-house
Heerengracht's
lies
was begun
it
in
about 1660 for the expanding class of wealthy merchants, the ancient
street
makes
it
reflection
unmistakably Dutch
of the houses
some
The
houses are
in
tall
and
and varied collection of gables -
in character.
in
this
On
their facades
of the sea which the Dutch loved and upon which they then controlled
the largest commercial empire
from Caspar
Philips'
known
to the world.
Grachtenboek, published
in spite
in
The
modern building
of
engravings
the
HeerenPhilips
portrays.
character
in
its
effect
is
The shape
rich
of the house,
rises to a
Amsterdam; but
we
windows
Dutch
Its taste is
which would
distinctly French -
details
opposite:
five
its
width, the parapet above, the double flight of steps, the 'stoep',
which
of
is
grey sandstone,
once attracts
at
its
ornamental
171
475
HEERENGRACHT
detail there
is
Removing
in
ing
door (which
is
original)
The
is
classical faces
carved
in
each
of the capitals remind one of the later English decoration under the
Adam
The most
brothers.
flank,
the central
window on
the pair
is
the
first
floor
legs
wrapped round
Each
is
is
figure exposes
line
leafless,
not easy to see the detail at the top of the house, but the cornice
fine
one.
reclining
figures of a
centre,
touche carries two cherubs playing with fruit - heraldry was rarely
1696
in
It
is
this
house was
to the
when
in
1763 with
commerce
seemed
political influence;
government
bought
house
in the
m^f>j
LJfF
k
^
^^
kdiu
THE DE NEUFVILLE
.
FAMILY,
BY
J.
M.
18th
It
country,
was
Heer
few years
in its
Marot
bought
building or redec-
oration.
,
_^~
important
W\
over Holland,
built.
I J9
an armillary
with which
all
is
dis-
CENTURY,
QUINKHARDT
He
and
in
settled at
in
Holland
J?
do Dini;iiim
Bine
BBIiJSL
BIAP
172
<s
Mil
I ]|
Hk
in
world of
taste
in
France
politics.
Marot
It'
one of
not
did
in his
published designs.
build
475,
his
Two
One
house.
in the
is
is
known
is
drawings
preserved
work of
to be the
still
to
Ignatius
The house
by Isaac de Moucheron
di fantasia
475
its
is
contains the
lies
nisters.
The
hall
not overloaded.
is
finely
its
and help
two paces
and yet
it
is
feel
to
period.
One might
a sense of space
Marot
its
is
beyond
from
the staircase. It rises the full height of the house to a lantern, invisible
from the
outside,
mouldings
in
a favourite
bold
Marot
and
is
relief.
design which
we again
notice in the
pilasters
window-frames
IN
WINTER-TIME
of the stables at the back of the house - the figures of Apollo with
his lyre,
stand
in fine
Above
there
is
a balcony in
in
trompe
of musical instruments -
So dramatic
is
flutes,
for a
members of
at a time
relig-
ious lives until the beginning of the eighteenth century; then they be-
Marot who
ional
until
1907,
when
it
ideas.
We
475 remained
in private
office.
The
Societeit
hands
voor
cade and of the staircase has thus been preserved for us - an unforgettable contribution to the domestic architecture of Europe.
Colin Fenton
see,
11:1
i
IN
1770,
BY CASPAR PHILIPS
173
475
HEERENGRACHT
The mouldings
create a sense of space
A ROOM ON THE FIRST FLOOR
MMM
DETAIL OF A FIREPLACE
opposite:
!*
*t
*"/
^"
-^ ~
FjV-xMk
^-
ifc#
*SSS
M\T^
<&&*
Palais Schwarzenberg
The grandson
peace and security can bring to a country that has suffered a long
war. With their great victories
allies
in
freed the city of Vienna from the Turkish menace, and the
finally
lifted
burden
had weighed heavily upon the Austrian people. Their fear and
uncertainty
to a spirit of enterprise
in
Every
song.
and
a cultural re-
their architecture.
Vienna
became
and
its
effort
and
in
was made
to
emphasise
importance
its
pomp
site.
to be rebuilt.
fire
encircled by a
One
of the
first
patrons of
When
the
Prince bought a
for his
site
perial Council of
summer
own
architect Fischer
future palace.
He
in
LORENZO MATTIELLI
the immediate
SABINES, BY
the Im-
fa-
mous Field-Marshal
Opposite:
was the
to
Lukas von
He
177
SCHWAR/KNHKRG
was
known
less
in
Vienna
rival.
their powers,
was
on contemporary architecture
nor was
in
Vienna.
the Prince's
it
He
have
to
artistic
a Leading influence
in
Germany.
good fortune
the
fulfil
Europe, particularly
in
and
inspire
to
at the height of
first
to
wish
ful-
but
done.
in
a great deal to be
still
Adam
An
the contract
For
fully furnished
the
decoration of
the
an
less
artist
famous building
this
rivals.
palace,
who
first
came
It
said
Schwarzenberg family
to the
was employed
that he
as a domestic servant.
is
as a
discovered his talent for painting he was sent to Venice for his education.
By
the time
Gran returned
advanced
sufficiently
him
to give
was
work
in
creation,
so
much
The
hall
where
bomb
satisfaction that
it
was followed
domed
damage by
his
Though
first
a miracle.
The room
is
many
The theme
arts
February
among
most
the
of these brilliantly
so typical of baroque,
figures,
god of the
in
without doubt
in
hall
and
sciences, the
is
guardian
of art
in
the Palais
its
is
also
original pictures.
Among
the finest
works
carpet showing
A FOUNTAIN
178
IN
THE PARK
this
in
Age
in
all
is
the
architectural
it
famous Medallion
lines,
was transformed
can
still
like
those of
into an English
work of
from Paris
to plan the
later Fischer
ramps, terraces,
To
<>l
was transformed
slope in
models.
garden
P. Trehet,
into
great parterres,
berg added the statues by the court sculptor Lorenzo Mattielli and
other ornaments that
many
made
still
his
in
garden unique
quite
good
in
Vienna. Fortunately
representation of the four seasons and the famous Raptus group depicting mythological rapes.
the
most
skilfully
The Raptus
figures,
in particular,
belong to
A STOVE
IN
THE WRITING-ROOM
makes them
Thanks
sions in
to the
all
his position as
means
the
of a grand seigneur.
He
his
vast posses-
Court Marshall,
at his disposal to
complete
and qual-
while hunting
allied
Felix
Prince
Emperor Franz
first
in
Prime
in
The
palace suffered
beautiful
damage during
in
his
bombing of
the
political
upheavals of
berg, considered
it
his
On
the
cast to
mark
this
happy occasion
'It befits
the
his ancestors'.
Franz JFindisch-Gractz
Opposite:
180
THE FACADE
IN
Palazzo Labia
A
in
foreign upstarts
in a city
aristocracy in 1646
when
this
first
time owing
Turkey. Thereafter,
war with
compensated
became
At
The
little
di
to this day.
in
the parish of S.
Geremia overlooking
the
architects
they employed,
their
originality
are
by breaking with
still
the
in
noble families.
The
Labia,
for
indication,
in
itself,
less
of the
to
powerful.
fabulous
attach
Grand
The Palazzo
behind from the large Campo
Labia,
182
rest.
S.
Ge-
remia which
it
The
it
rooms on the
State
filled
floor
with a
PALAZZO LABIA
somewhat withdrawn.
stands hack
first
itself,
of paintings. Old
collection
fine
number of
large
all
to
visits
eighteenth
The
century.
older and
more
Within
two brothers,
any of
to
commoner
His main
for wife.
may
it
explain his
were
interests
literary.
He
stir,
perform
its
their wives
He
them,
into
choice of a
revival of the
aristocratic rivals.
lived
it
artistic
ceilings
brother,
pictures by
around him. In
more
servative ideas in a
way by sending
practical
secret reports of
it
in
the
recognise that
to
most beautiful
life
line
of
in
attracted
still
{Che
(And
yet,
know
mi piansaria
not why,
wanted
to
weep)
in
The most
life.
In
her younger days she had been a great beauty, and her portrait by
tality
flirted
in
the critical
with
work
in
Italy.
On
him and
Europe.
artist
rooms
in their
his frescoes
of his
attractive
in
most
charmed
still
artist's
example
ment she
offers
in a
own
dazzles her
cup of wine.
his choice
of
position in Venetian
IN
A SPANISH MIRROR
opposite:
185
PALAZZO LABIA
society,
le
On
at a harbour. It
is
that
sail
some
is
certain
Mark Antony
is
quite certain
tenseness
sort of farewell
in
is
Cleopatra's pose
On
seems to suggest
at the leash.
together
and
greyhound
strains
to lift these
if
scenes into the range of legend and timelessness, Tiepolo has painted
is
watching.
justice to the
With
The banquet
its
The
Mengozzicomplexity.
illusionism
its
own sake -
as that
which
still
186
is
essential
real
its
is
much more
a world of enchantment as
existed in Venice in 1750.
fell into
The
tional regrets.
the artist's
ions boat
fame was
at
came much
when
later
its
Cleopatra to
fall
to the
new
has largely concealed the damage, and the palace has found a
owner,
Don
who
Carlos de Beistigui,
of the grandeur
it
enjoyed
in
heyday.
its
Many
among
a writing table
pictures of notable
the pieces
which belonged
interest
to
Roman
for-
less
Byron who
some
it
igo
ol
lived there.
in
Some
particular three
eighteenth-century artists of
Above
all
scenes
from the
there are
life
some superb
of Scipio Africanus
woven
in
Brussels at the
series of
fine
made
for Louis
XV. But
is,
to-day as
its
in
Europe
to
still
owes
of fabulous enchantment.
Francis Haskell
^1
JT 4
THE PRESENT OWNERS TRIBUTE TO VENETIAN ADMIRALS
/
f
LOUIS XV TAPESTRIES IN
t\
THE SALON DES INDES
87
PALAZZO LABIA
Tiepolo's world
of
enchantment
A TIEPOLO SPANIEL
opposite:
TIEPOLO'S CEILING
IS
ARCHITEC-
NYMPHENBURG
IN
1701:
ENGRAVING BY
WENING
M.
The Nymphenburg
The
1664
until
Nymphenburg
history of the
extends from
Rondell was
summer
finished. It
was conceived
today
is
it
as a
by
in its
it
present form.
The
always
edifices,
joined, but often only by a stretch of wall eaved with ancient red
was
built
was
It
tiles,
a gift
grandeur already
in their
Residenz
in the
centre of
ette
burg
by
in
summer
villa.
It
was
Marie Antoin-
to be called
Nymphen-
An
engraving
M. Wening
today, with
its
in
it
is
but without the six fine central windows, beneath three smaller oval
ones, which
I
lie
modesty
ot
ducal palace.
manor
When
it,
has the
house, rather than the magnificence of a grandthe grand duchess died, in 1676, E. Zucalli had
190
call
opposite:
Her
son,
Max Em-
*-.
*?*fc
i^^W
**
m*
THE NYMPHENBURG
manuel, succeeded
and
in
his
Italian,
1679;
windowed
in
and joined
to
by
it
whose arches
Max Emmanuel
draw up plans
J.
ended
in
who had
Effner,
well. It
War
1714 he immediately
studied in
for the
it
was decided
'villa'
it.
which
stables
and
Clock Tower
brecht,
official
quarters;
at
(only completed by
who followed
his
father as
to
his
windows
instruct-
Paris,
of the
the
Max
north,
in
the south
an Orangerie and
Emmanuel's
Elector
at
son,
1726).
In
Karl Althis
way
Effner brought into being the immense cour d'honneur which achieved
its
THF AMALIENBLRG, RV
F.
CLVILLIfiS, 1734-1739
successor,
Max
Josef
III,
MENTATION OF
PPosile:
1761, he
moved
THE NYMPHENBURG
into
many
to
and
took long
it
was transformed
burg possesses
into the
charm and
simplicity,
On
The
Nymphcn-
From whichever
integrity.
towards
direc-
along an avenue of
it
from which
basin
its
style
water.
build,
to
air.
The rooms
as
its
nucleus; but
Nymphenburg
of the
are impressive; slightly less restrained than the exterior; but Effner's
his
son Franz,
divinities
in their
varied
We
Diana
see
found a whole
series of
huge
oil
1756
at the
of
Max
galleries can be
Nymphenburg and
paintings of the
The Great
and south
was
III Josef,
Max Emmanuel
to develop
NYMPHENBURG: MINIATURE BY
M.
VON GEER,
1730
He was
it.
The
1720
most of
Max Emmanuel
all
and
talent
sent
when
little
to Paris
who was
Residenz theatre
little
generally given
'the
peculiarly fitted
interior
to
more
to
is
in
Mun-
we have an
regarded as
him
is
his talent,
title
him
enabled
soon detected
to Effner in
first
a very
still
Cuvillies'
apprenticed him
in
discerned
in
have kept
all
beautiful even
Bayreuth.
Cuvillies'
the
sensitivity to plastic
unite
form.
in
The Amalienburg
is
and most
the third
Nymphenburg. The
other two are the Pagodenburg (1716-19) and the Badcnburg (171821), both built
wood;
it
its
194
1720
built
its
as
hunting
lodge
and
ambitious fhan
picnic
resort
either
for
of
these,
another
was
electress,
the chosen
and where
On
wonderful use of
a
is
rocaille
it
an
the
side
Hiindekammer with
many
its
in silver.
glittering
air
iels
room with
icy splendour,
its
side, three
is
which
tiles
depict flowers and scenes of everyday life in China and with a ceiling
chinoiseries.
The
interior decoration
J.
B.
Zimmermann and by Joachim Dietrich, a Munich master of woodcarving. But some of it may have been done by E. Zerhelst the Elder,
a Dutch sculptor, who may have contributed the plastic nude figures
above the main entrance and on the cornice of the Hall of Mirrors.
in
turn after a
Wittelsbachs
sionally
it
Rupprecht.
his
many
in the
is
still
little
over
hundred years of
existence.
The
exercised by
When
ancestors
Herzog
Albrecht,
son of
Grand Prince
who had
may
gather
left: ELECTOR
FERDINAND-MARIA;
above
GRAND DUKE
KARL ALBRECHT;
left: GRAND DUCHESS
MARIA AMALIA
above:
Monk
Gibbon
195
"
"
:r
The Nymphenburg
is
ijfcl J 1
9"'
i
r
'>
;
'
_^_I
I
9
Y"*^
^^^^^f
j
'f
'
Jfc
right:
Is
t^
IV
-V|
THE KITCHEN
196
IN
THE AMALIENBl RG
IN
THE NYMPHENBl'RG
opposite:
IN
Stupinigi
Piedmont
Juvara's hunting-lodge in
the palazzina
CACCIA
DI
It
was begun
The King
work
first
in
He worked
undoubtedly was.
it
II.
di Caccia
is
one of the
The
fruits
of this
self-
father had given to the knightly order of Saints Maurice and Lazarus.
Vittorio
his labours.
on
in the
Amedeo
Most
Juvara began
of the
reign of his
inigi
kingdom by
was
The
abbreviated.
was
all
The
construction,
originally foreshadowed. It
furthermore, took
was not
were somewhat
shape.
New
its
of
modern
Borgaro and
Ludevico Bo took over after Juvara's death. Charles Emmanuel himself died. It
was
his
son Vittorio
Amedeo
III
who
first
holding there specially sumptuous parties for the marriages of his sons
in
opposite:
198
ORIGINALLY A HUNTING-LODGE,
IS DOMINATED BY A HUGE STATUE OF A STAG
STUPINIGI
:JJil
"-
ia^-wui
unjfei
F
r r
I a
l
tat'
au*
yijtj
oil.
::
STFPINIGI
Jl
The
was
first
Amcdeo
III
sity
1802
in
a part of the
as a country house in
it
The
France.
Univer-
1803, staying
<>t
Piedmont
to
of Napoleon's
sister,
who
VITTORIO AMEDEO
II
OF SAVOY
Order of
Saints
was returned
all
the
to the
time
re-
tained their ownership of the land on which the palace was built.
Certain
French garden,
of Juvara
is
is
at the
approached by
it
Drawing
nearer,
way
park stretches
past splendour.
is
its
plainly visible.
to a long series of
room. This
to
The
is
On
On
to an elegant gallery.
is
rise
seen leav-
in the
year 1731.
The
The
ber,
bedroom,
The apartments
small salon
all
in
baroque
make
interiors.
(salottino)
eighteenth
century),
Queen Margarita,
III
NTING-SCENE
AT STUPINIG1
BY CIGNAROLI
200
is
scenes.
Humbert.
In the
New
the
the
residence
is
late
by the late
igenia,
to the
itself
opposite:
is
T;
STUPINIG1
Repose of Diana,
style.
1730
Beyond these
is
a series ol small
a delightful
rooms decorated
hinting
room
Leading
in a
off
Chinese
in
rooms (Apparlamenlo
in
the so-called
di
New
Levante). This
XVI.
In a gallery of portraits
It
possesses a Chinese
severely elegant
itsell
is
silent
its
last
his
ol great beauty.
louse of Savoy,
resting place.
slept
Penally there
in
1803.
is
the
The bed
silent hours.
Hugh Thomas
opposite:
202
room
decorated throughout
is
Harmony
of
taste,
variety of associations
IN
opposite:
1803
'/*.
n^
V
a
*/\
4
:>
IN
1724,
BY SALOMON KLEINER
Pommersfelden
The
RURAL
known
as Schloss
neighbour
One
ism.
it
is
German Baroque
a surprise,
drives out
tiny hamlets
which
spoiled of
least
his
fantastic tales,
just that
is
fields
together
in
seemly groups.
narrow farm-wagon
sandy
seen,
culti-
soil;
passes,
drawn by
vaguely defined,
far
ahead against
is
its
background of low
hills.
magnificent; yet
it
its
setting,
rounds
it.
Owned
Princess Ruffa-Scaletta) and her son, Count Karl von Schonborn-Wiesenthcid. collateral relatives of
originator,
its
has a personal
life
of
its
lost.
chosen
opp'.ute:
lot,
much
He
no mere
relic,
it
headgear.
an expensive
is
which costs
It
own.
it
Most
of
his
it
own
private
was
hat'.
'a
craze
He
fortune
had
went
207
J\rt
1.3.1 1 Mil <...-. B /., ..,./.
In t.uunt l.i Ki.J. I ., .1,.. /,
/"
I Uitnmd Ctuaiut ./..
l.i
i
m.j.I. N /.- *.-. v ./. O /. >?.,.
/..
'
!.,.
.,.,.,,.
f.
/,
'
,.,
.1.
t. /..
la
(f
(tiM.-m
A. PfjMn
wnw L. / m*i
V ! <!.*
i)
I.
i-.-rt)
../".
Cl'Miil'iliiii
I hum,.
,^r ./
II
*
ili-i
J'lrVi'l
(!((
t TV'plVif
h Pn
ArJ'j'irtiri .,n,
II
Nrrn
^5u,
Minim
fVr'.^ii'ff
.|l
|l.illin<g.ii
P.i
i,y r , .. H
(^Prt ^u. .N.'
>.
I.m.ii
,.,,,1,'mI
h,,,,
rr- ^....1^,1
*.
I.H
"..I
i,
it
."*<*'
IN 1724
either
on
'once
you
or on pictures. 'Building
it
you can't
start,
eyes,
little
its
is
stop.'
The
He
is
endearing nature,
full
prince'.
He
spect'.
took
What we
will.
described as 'of an
who
the Netherlands,
was
had had
of
re-
in architecture
Garten
direct
contact with
Versailles
in
the
and
its
theory.
mas-
to purchase old
Italian painters.
Oberintendenten
get up at
him
visited
Every
detail
ews,
is
manages
it
'full
In collecting pictures he
ters but also
he exclaimed,
a devilish thing',
is
in
in the
the morning,
in
He
walk
der
Koniglichen
wrote to one of
in
le
the garden
his
in
neph-
for a
few
now
by Salomon Kleiner
Welsch
in a
1724.
in
But
his
stables
side of
fine
Pommersfelden
engravings
remain,
designed by
great arc facing the main facade, with their line of stone
door.
hall
In
made
the centre of
side of the
is
with
main
circular
which now houses tour sleighs of early pattern and whose walls
room
hung
symmetrically upon
formidable array of
main
the
which arose -
building,
living
memory.
1711
modified version of
main block
two projecting
is
rises
The
and
hand
the
1668
in
in
it.
in
much
city,
was Johann
architect
Neue Resident
for
Hildebrandt,
in
in
vaster
still
Lothar Franz
to
Schloss, sandstone
its
them
stable
the
ween
than ten
all
From
less
in
Vienna
The
pediment with
POMMERSFELDEN
Fran/, but
bits
its
There
stressed by
is
is
baroque dar-
in
it.
cury holding the aegis. Behind him rises a tiled and almost pagodalike section of the roof. Similary placed, but
The
Marmorsaal,
interior of
legend that
all
side,
on the garden
its
is
five
and
this
Pommersfelden
German
Atlas
is
is
shoddy imitation
of the glories of Versailles. Franconian artistry and workmanship account for the greater part of
it.
have been made against Zammels, the sculptor responsible for many
of
its
century and
halt.
lis
Terena and
in
the north
Juno
figures, the
in
a niche
on the staircase
is
charming.
TIIFv
STABLKS, BCILT IN
1717
209
and
the shell-decorated
saal,
Terena or Muschel-
and
The
was by Hildebrandt.
staircase
which unite
in
first
double approaches
front of the
has
It
like
crystals.
flanked on
is
in a
theatre
of the period. Far above one catches sight of Byss's ceiling fresco
work
Wurzburg, which
it
may have
Pommersfelden with
its
suggested.
pires,
it
it
its
grey marble
ceiling
its
hung
in
to
Two
whole centuries
its
lofty
where
show
its
somewhat impersonal
bust of Lothar
note.
Franz
in
Steidl;
Wherea
niche
or
the
Marmorsaal, with
Ganymede by Melchior
painting of
ings are
its
floor, strikes a
and
the case.
The
to possess.
and
is
four em-
creator intended
its
at
his friends,
ghel and Diirer - as well as the rooms which house his superb library
and
meant
to be lived in
in
the past
to
warm
all
still
them.
Monk
210
right:
Gibbon
ITS
CEILING OF TI1K
1717
l'OM.MKRSFELDEN
left:
m%
II
(/ A
JgNj
^K
i^^fr
'
THE HOUSE
IN
1794,
Bruhl
The
pleasure-palace of an Archbishop
hundred and
synonym for
fifty
artistic
who
in
but
Germany today
taste',
is
it
producing
fully
Two
archbishop-elector of Cologne
in
The
site
Konrad Schlaun.
He
contemplated some-
ferent
was
It
summer
to be a
moated
later
came
into being,
Even
embodied
in
when
'water-
its
we
see
thirteenth-century forerunner
Bruhl, like the Wiir/.burg Residenz, was built over several years.
There was
brother's architect,
Franqois Cuvillies.
1728 under
ten years
the
acted
in
work
that
went on.
It
latter
all
the
214
For
to
opposite:
it
CUVILLIfiS
He
rooms
in
much
The
apartments, as well
He
faqade.
its
sculptural detail to
more famous
kept Schlaun's
it.
arrival of an even
BRlIIL
designed
come with
the
figure
mann. Cuvillies had kept Schlaun's staircase but the prince-bishop had
decided long ago that, despite Schlaun's schooling
Neumann
to
Bruhl
in
that
he
Much
1733.
in
was under
It
left.
came
first
he was
Italy,
in
Leveilly, a local
Neumann drew up
He
great dining-hall.
burg,
case
first
plans
for
H. Roth. Schlaun's
J.
stair-
was removed and the new Stiegenhaus was created between 1743
its
in
Von
1770.
till
still
to
Stuber
executed ceiling-paintings for the staircase and for the rooms to which
Guard Room -
really
Much
artisans
and
charming railed
local
who were
followed later by
Brilli.
The
Agriculture
etc.
upraised arms.
but
visitors
its
its
for
tor,
room
reception
and grace -
give
a lightness
it
in
as effective in
its flight,
way
its
Wurzburg.
Desmarees
1746 we see very much the secular prince, rather than the
his
cleric.
in
This
Rome
to
to
behaviour.
hundred and
He
fifty
was extravagant.
exact status.
two of
summoned him
We
He
had
whom were
to Rome to
\\ e
Opposite:
Pope
is
who
who was
Court
cousin
at his Elector's
some of
said to have
more excuse
whom
he married to her
many
1743-8
217
The
staircase at Bruhl
combines lightness
with magnificence
THE
CEILING, BY CARLO
CARLONE
TWO
He
the
made
later he
relief
so on.
favourite
blue-tiled Delft
it
of various bath
He
had
articles,
found
to be
ornamentation
in
hawks are
bathroom
in
oil
paintings of his
IfciA
ridors at Bruhl.
Those who
to cross
life in
its
visit
the Schloss
accouchement of
in
was
like.
until
Saxony.
liam
IV of
slippers
felt
Prussia.
and
Today
in
1842
it
made
the possession
it
passed into
this architectural
finest survivals
in
phoenix renews
its
of a great period.
Monk
218
right:
youth
Gibbon
v-c^
BROHL
l<
*>
V.
sk
'
*;
>
^-^
i'
ru
M0fe&HHimffi
a
> J*T -
*
I
THE RESIDENZ
ABOUT
IN
1770
Pevsner HAS
brought her
whom
from
European
European music,
With neighbours
and borrow, with native builders who
to the forefront of
sensitivity
architecture...'.
to
many
fitted
flights
plastic
All this
is
demonstrated
it.
in the
Wurzburg
The French
Many
Residenz.
people
Boffrand and
court-architects,
architects,
of colonel.
He
finally
became
who began
a military engineer
his career as
and rose
to the
rank
new Imperial
palace
in
Ludovico Bossi
Bossi of Lugano.
from
One
Stuttgart,
and
his
Tiepolo
opposite:
in
the
terrible
221
THE
air raid
in
twenty minutes
five
destroyed.
that
which were
1720, but
was not
it
who
Of
1750
work,
prince-bishops
until
the four
members of
and nephews of
Lothar Franz. Lothar himself was fascinated by the project and made
constant suggestions, some his own, some emanating from his architects
the
in
autumn of 1719.
He
at various
courts,
before they elected him, were uneasily aware of his taste for magnificence. Since
in the
Marienburg. But
a fortress
was not
in
new Residenz
spirit
Rennweg were
know that his time
the
in
river,
to
in the
compass and study the plans. Lothar Franz remarked that Neumann
would go
blind, he
Johann Philipp
frontage of
five
hundred and
added
later the
two further
fivefold assemblage.
was
a scholar
project.
When
who
side courts
Johann Philipp's
who by
to be
that time
added by
222
in
1749.
Welsch
On
his successor
these
feet,
had
To
fifty
Karl (1674-1746),
drich Karl,
plans.
election,
many
of
its
crowning glories
EAST, OR GARDEN,
WCRZBlIUi
ERRACE
i
i
'F
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A
i B g
II
fl
A
|8I
imTi
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J/'ii
,k
55
*!
^ iCB?
Y.V
\Y(
RZlURCi
of the Residenz:
it
is
his
medallion-
Europe -
work by Antonio
orative
work
many
in
in
own above
the
other.
The uneven
cobbled
forecourt
is
still
of
the
work from
the
flanked at
its
Residenz
is
no longer
in the
nineteenth century,
The
that in which
sential
WiRZBURG FRESCOES
glories
Napoleon
of the
slept,
in
were wrecked
in
vaulting above the Kaisersaal and staircase - perhaps the most beau-
opposite:
224
VVURZBURG
HMBK
II
ill
I
-*,
ri
226
ft
m
%
--#J*
casc and
its
pears to
is
dome, hut
rise in a
Neumann's
and
who came
reply
to see
was
to offer to fire
would hring
if it
here
in
to test
it
an artillery salute
Two
down.
it
which ap-
deceptive depth,
its
is
its
immense expanse
the
is
WURZBURG
stair-
its
in
solidity.
honour
hundred years
its
later
it
was
Seen
upon
in the
Almost apocalyptic
it.
and groups of
in
its
eloquence,
individual
the
and
figures
realist.
In
vaulting,
gundy and
much
to
give the
Emperor Barbarossa,
his sun-chariot
is
drawn
a bla/.e
is
and
deply-recessed
room
addit-
Beatrice of Bur-
human
the
unique grandeur.
the
the
its
is
it
windowed
KARL
TIEPOLO'S PORTRAIT OF
PHILIPP VON GREIFFENCLAU
of intense
detail
The
is
In the
interest.
packed with
is
In
On
the ceiling
Neumann
capitals.
gilt
He
precedes Tiepolo,
began
in
lacks
in
its
but
stat-
the
final
exuberance
in
of
in
Bossi
genius.
1753; and,
TIEPOLO'S PAINTING
later,
when, according to some people he was mad, he did the two symbolic
groups of an old man,
now
in the
Gartensaal.
The Residenz
is
full
the factory
tremendous colour,
of the
nothing to suggest
full
its
1721 and
The Commedia
humour and vitality. The
in
Neumann and
later.
Hildehrandt,
is
strongly
is
symmetry of
his
its
its
its
two main
lovely gold-canopied
altars
its
twisted columns,
pulpit
chapel
is
garded
a time
as an appropriate illustration of
re-
celestial counterpart.
Monk
Gibbon
ROSSI,
PAINTINGS BY ZICK
opposite:
229
l^i
"
Claydon
A
is
border country,
Claydon from
shire,
flat
Bicester, passing
east.
Approaching
into
Buckingham-
from Oxfordshire
and comes
Roundhead
east,
ly
and gave
at
Claydon
sides
most anxious-
their lives
exile,
the
'Sir
Charles
I.
He
the
to
is
cause
when
the Civil
service
and
War
was convinced of
broke
have eaten
I
his
out.
future
my
(which
loyal
do so base
life
a thing as to
am
sure
to pieces
my
conscience to preserve
of Edgehill
on the
field,
his
this
gallant
severed hand
Out of
the
will not
opposile:
joined
stalwart Protestant, he
still
Edmund Verney
was transferred
James Lees-Milne,
built a
decent red-
231
CLAYDON
Hanoverians,
his
found himself
in
great-grandson
spirit,
He
found
kindred
Its
in the
Thomas Robinson
Sir
the
taste
Ralph,
obvious
is
showed most of
itself
in
turning
back
its
these characteristics.
the unresolved
with an enormous ballroom pretending to be one of a pair of twostorey houses and a central rotunda quite failing to dominate them
both.
Some
survived
left:
SIR
FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE
BY SIR WILLIAM RICHMOND c.
in
an
attic at
architect
1860
has
client
right:
and
was
a mysterious figure
who
of genius,
made
at
it
named
its final
beauty,
to
Buckinghamshire
to
for.
in that
strain of
fantasy in the
wayman
lomania
in
which the
'long Sir
found
latter
mega-
in
itable result:
in
until
1784,
the
claim that he had left at Claydon 'two of the most princely rooms
in
Sir
Harry
who
Calvert,
who
her-
while Parthenope
embarked on
the
first
its
Janus
faces,
Victorianised.
The
unfinished Georgian
Through
in the
withdrawingroom was
fitted
is
out
erect-
now
safe
east,
walls and cottages into the wide mid-eighteenth century stable court,
somehow French
in feeling
with
its
its
size.
From
trees.
Even
classical
house - to be
232
opposite:
:^'
o-.
!W
!**
-s
^>
.-JiFr
8-
**
CLAY DO
Among
North
cube
in
[all,
fifty feet
relation
the
less
The
it:
'I
this
carved
all
an
it
room
one
Lightfoot's
is
is
it
rococo
in
effect
feels
striking,
is
it
Wilton) and
like a
ceiling alike
at
to
room
a double
is
the conventional
Chinese
One
tro-
smoothly carried on only two brass hinges. The white wood doorcases
are correctly Corinthian, and the atmosphere
is
less
century frames cover the grey flock-papered walls, and above them
Adamesque
runs a delicate
and
is
flee in
The
equally
is
fine,
frail
if
there
was
a single
mind behind
The
The
gests Lightfoot.
curtail step
madness
inlaid,
and so
in its
stair to
the splendid
and
library ceiling
One doubts
of
frieze.
frail
is
soffits
amalgam
mahogany
inlaid with
now
climb the
hear the famous rustle of the iron ears of corn against the
wreaths and rosettes of the balustrade. At the top the sky floods down
through
a circlet
Claydon
is
it
is
ularly feminine,
to
is
portrait,
doors and chimney-piece and three pink pentagonal Gothic domes. All
bedrooms contain
the
fanciful
England
to
Room,
the
first
back from the East by Sir William Chambers. The doors and doorheads, with their realistic caryatids, the twin chimney-pieces, the Canton
bamboo
furniture, are
dominated by
Chinese 'bedhead-grotto-pagoda'.
The house
is full
fifty
acres of
its
fields.
Lionel Brett
opposite:
235
CLAYDON
ALCOVE
A DOORCASE
IN
The most
fantastic
example
of English Chinoiserie
236
opposite:
1-
THE ENTRANCE
IN
ENGRAVING BY
1826.
P.
J.
NEALE
Russborough
The
midway through
built
the
has
in the
hands of another,
impressed by
its
Sir
Alfred
Beit.
At the same
which makes it not only
It
tually
ing to
might be an
was
it
sees
it
to-day must be
of unique content.
plicity,
Whoever
built
time
it
a great
Irish
and
ac-
by an architect
Maurice Craig,
Sir
to Ireland about
Erne.
He
1727
to build
in
him
Lough
the
Dublin practice.
his plans
of Engineers.
was destined
began
to
in
He
soon had
famous Dublin
Arriving
in Ireland,
well-versed
made
opposite:
He
officer
hospital, the
in
Neumann, was an
Du
in
itself
built
France and
in his native
Germany,
his influ-
felt.
on land bought
in
239
RUSSBOROUGH
ishcd
M.
from
his father
P.,
who was
He
tures that a
to this
man
paintings, porcelains,
a fortune
had inherited
after Leeson
etc.
home
for the
in Ireland.
grand duke or
damasks
way
find their
willow-bordered lake, towards the river Liffey and the not too
tant
mauve and
Wicklow Mountains.
blue
Russborough
is
toured Ireland
wrote,
'If
in
dis-
work
we may judge
in
Two
who
Englishmen,
we
shall
when
finished see a
JOSEPH LEESON,
1ST EARL OF MILLTOWN,
ry.
was
built of stone
It consists
colonnades of Ionic
BY POMPEO BATTONI
ped by
pillars,
a series of urns.
and of Diana,
right.
Russborough's frontage
is
seven hundred
feet,
below:
wide
flight
JL
C
*
J**
is
a sundial
is
simplicity itself.
t&zZP
greater
and
a clock.
The arrangement
mounts
is
it
which
One
lions,
To
five
Grand
into the
the left
to the right
and
the drawing-room,
is
is
now
the dining-
room on
Grand
Since the
which flank
it,
there
lull is
is
room on
the
the tea-
left,
main
staircase
in a
side,
before one reaches the entrance door of the middle of the three very
rooms which
beautiful
entire
the
fill
the
The
storey above
is
directness.
two white
pillars at either
light
are
it
reliefs.
All round this lobby - where nothing has been allowed to intervene
and
spoil
powder
VII
closet
Apart from
its
virtues of grace
its
and
ceilings
splen-
its
rococo murals
ceilings,
of
in certain
its
Each of
from room
to
- provide
is
the
room.
the mantelpieces
is
heads
in
Sicilian
Homer
Connemara or Kilkenny.
line
white marble:
in
be
Exquisite
them bearing
be
marble. In another
spacious
bathroom.
into a
classic
Eu-
hermes of coloured
in
case,
is
a small rectangular
else-
The
in public life,
although
in
1798
earl,
with the United Irishmen, and was labelled 'the chief agitator that
first
low'.
The
rebels occupied
all
its
art treasto
make
national flags out of the green drugget which covered the very beautiful
might then
'ruin
his
Lordship's
floor'.
The
soldiery
who followed
241
them, however,
fused
stay,
all
made
RUSSBOROUGH
and even exacted taxes for the time when they had been
Russborough, which for
time was
in
there.
Denis Daly, houses today the Beit Collection of paintings and art
treasures arranged without ever impairing the atmosphere of a home,
taste,
that at no time in
its
Dona Antonia
first
The
owner
its
to
love-letter,
history can
make
it
it
have been
repository for
(one of them recovered by Lord Dudley from the Pope) and numerous other historic pictures hang on
walls of the
Grand Hall
shelter a
its
walls,
most superb
in the
collection of bronzes
and porcelain.
Monk
Gibbon
sposht:
IN
243
4l
4
'v..
**$"*
ITS
COMPLETION
Sans Souci
A
POTSDAM
is
name
that for
hearted
in the
German
arms-factories
sical statues,
and
the
character.
Germany, but
in
while
that
is
The town
it
light-
its
When
its
clas-
exterior panoplies
Frederick William
laid out
have
a
all
a garret big
enough
and he turned
large part of his Lustgarten into a training ground for his giant
soldiers.
Potsdam
day
retains to this
it
is
among
its
encircling lakes
Neues
Palais,
and
first.
But
it
villas pos-
the Stadtschloss,
Germany,
and
the
built
last
two,
schloss during the winter months, he sought a site nearby for a sum-
mer
palace,
He
men
found
opposilr.
THE HOUSE
LIES
is
it
a little
oakwoods and
Voltaire
like
is
name
in
way
entertain,
in
who matched
almost
his
own
a sprinkling of vines.
The
first
Frederick's
own hand,
rough ink-
245
SANS
SOI CI
mn
draw
races,
curved
of the
hill,
ter-
like
and how
wide
flight
would stand.
bank of
flat
was carried
itself
The
out.
ter-
races are faced with glass-houses, themselves curved to catch the sun's
which swells
a shallow
at
its
diri-
centre into
Sans Souci has three natures. The garden, like the facade of the
house facing
on a
a romantic variation
is
it,
classical composition.
Its
fountains, statuary
would never
on the top of
folly
this
direction,
colonnades
in
hill.
The
front,
is
a neighbouring
true entrance
the
he-
visitor
quite
ruined
approaching from
The
pretence
is
and
classical
room on
is
immediately dispelled.
is
Greco-German
in
the
the leafy
backed by
an armchair
in
style that
fell
the
in
room named
it
sitting-room,
The abundant
in
alter
But
his death.
Voltaire
M.
de-
its
in
warm
ormolu of
fern
It is a circular
first
is
his
un-
by Nahl and the brothers Johann Michael and Johann Christian Hop-
little
in
work, for
years'
marble and almost any other material that could be shaped or applied
was used
to
n
'
'{.
hang
trellis
it
made no
German
work of art
246
to
it
Europe
in
artists
French to
on
of which
his
German
all
intimates,
soil
king
who
culture,
ami
yet
created
opposite:
S/
SANS SOUCI
The
palace
is
monarch
^^^H^R| ^
-^
*i
THE
KING'S
DEATH-MASK
1755
IN
ENGLAND
1753
Benrath
A
its
in
the
many
inhabitants than
of
its
seen remarkably
Elector Palatine,
little
human
accommodation -
native
occupation. Karl
in
rah on
d'etre.
The
couple,
whose
They
in
Born
in
Schwetzingen
had
lost
still
live
Luncville
in
and
at Benrath, to replace a
be seen
most of
it
in
alter-
was
has
the people of
It
its
initials
built,
had plenty of
Heidelberg,
was
it
Theodore (1724-1799),
to be built,
Mannheim,
in
since
in
much older
to design a
one, a portion
the woods.
lowed
visits to
Italy
was
and
to
a pupil
of the
about
2^0
it.
In
He
style
book
helped
^^
Pfe*!
*te
**'
* r T*
^ <?A
^1 r4
>*'
^
1
.'
%.*
Civ
_*
pg^
*-4M
V
'A A
|^*r >m
tiW~
$m
~^
^^1
1
BENRATH
IN
PALAIS DE
1806,
ROM A PAINTING
L'fiLYSLE,
in-
VERNET NOW
in Tin;
PARIS
251
BENRATH
KARL THEODORE
NICOLAS DE PIGAGE
with the planning of the park at Schwet/,ingen and the building; of
the ravishing
houses
in
theatre; and he
little
Pigage's designs
for
various sub-
soil;
many
all
fountains, as
food would be
brought, since the main part of the Schloss was to have no kitchen
on
its
work.
at
premises.
When
Benrath
it
in
was resumed,
in
work went on
slowly
By 1770
the time.
all
to spatial
problems that
members of
it
is
disarming
internal complexity.
its
it
was
1780.
till
solutions
brilliant
the profession. It
yet astounding in
the
in
it
interruption
No
one seeing
flight
its
of
as
many
it
in
the
courts which hide out of sight in the centre of the building and which
air for a
to contemplate the
its
is
flues,
which
their
own,
its
single,
tiny islet
many
building that
What
on
railing
were
services
some miracle of
which a weeping-willow
shutters,
whose
exit visible
One
staff
smoke from
have no
huge domestic
is
is
its
its
white
circular
arranged on
flat
tops
protecting them are hidden out of sight, well behind that pediment
with
its
its
its
lions
from the Wittelsbach coat of arms. In spring the blossoms of the red
horse-chestnuts in bloom
facade. Separated a
in the
little
woods on
distance
from
either side
it,
match
this
extending forwards
pink
in
the
or cavalier wings.
central
yet
each
has
of what
vestibule,
252
block,
They
is
really a
its
marble
long,
floor
rectangular
and stucco
by Egell of
reliefs
Hanked on
P'our Seasons,
domed
Hit
is
hall, the
it is
really
Kuppelsaal.
Gartensaal, one for the
Elector and one for his wife, and over each doorway
is
medallion
and the appropriate monogram. They are rooms for general receptions
is
The
dome which
its
is
galleries recessed in
it,
one
in
a magnificent floor
of Napoleon. In any case the floor has recently been reversed and
polished, and felt slippers are necessary for all
den Branden.
Most
who
all
cross
it.
contributed to the
is
of the decoration
suggests
retreat
dignified
Zeus and Athene on Olympus for the Elector, Apollo and the Nine
Muses
Over
are charming.
Of
is
The rooms
the
Those on
The
beautiful galleried
room
and under-
skill
which
sat right
under the roof, looking down on the celebration of the mass through
windows.
On
the
ground
bathroom with
When Napoleon
his
founded
his
sidence at Benrath.
in
it
and the
liked
it,
latter
with
DRAWING
moved
its
into re-
English and
hanging folds
its
PIGAGE'S SECTIONAL
of
ceiling
its
make
a painting
summer by members of
in
overleaf left:
Monk
Gibbon
right:
253
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.
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3
59
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--
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5Sf
-v
BENRATH
The
ingenuity of
Nicolas de Pigage
and
his decorators
(3
ON PLAN)
256
THE KIPPELSAAL
(2),
LINKING THE
TWO GARDEN-ROOMS
sTlf.
TO
flow:
IN
THE VESTIBULE
GILT
THE KUPPELSAAL
>* *"^"*%
.*
JliiUJD
ft
>^^
J*
[_
^3-'
-"
'
>
^**-
3t!5R
WOOD CARVING
Syon House
A
Adam
house transformed by
ABOUT
1431
Brigittine
it
Two
Sing
The nunnery
chantries,
still
off
As
when
Henry
priests
it
was
the Abbess
dissolved,
was pen-
with 200.
the Protector,
Dudley,
Duke
both of
whom
of note,
in
Duke
it
built
have
to
in
1552
was
a great
Edward Seymour,
it
passed to John
were executed
Henry
Percy,
the
in
the
'wizard'
in the
formed
and
a collection
distinction
in
were apt
now
at Petworth).
Riches
to attract disaster in
258
opposite:
SYON
Wizard
'cloisters',
HOIisl
and the
origin,
Canaletto
it
to Sir
the Percy
was painted by
it
1752.
in
1750
In
latter has
his
be the best-looking
permitted to take
and paid
who
a visit to Voltaire,
art,
life finally
cost her
In 1760 Robert
Duchess
Queen
Charlotte's
a larger retinue
full
to redecorate
at Syon,
in
Duke and
Northumberland. In
bled at the
and
Italy,
lively
though he grum-
Palatine',
lace
'all
Adam worked
conform
to the
under great
awkward
at
difficulties
which was
The
that he completed,
all
effect
Syon; he had to
of the hall
is
show
The
five
staterooms,
most daring.
The
floor
is
of black and
At one
and some
a quantity of busts
the furnishings.
The
full-scale statues,
in
windows are
Rome. The
grisaille roundels,
re-
From
here
we
Rome
of the
antico
on which stand, as
desses.
The
if
suspended
in
walls are pale green, with blue panels decorated with gilt
Madama
in
Rome.
from trophies
in the
Palazzo
two
alcoves hold bronze statues of Hector and Achilles and the floor
brilliantly
waiting
opposite:
is
room
as
for servants.
261
SYON
The
HOl'vSl-:
dining-room, with
Duke and
next
The
Duchess,
exotic
is
less
silk
effect.
carpet, signed by T.
many
his
is
the
lrom
Kaufimann with an
of so
wall-hangings
med-
its
and luxurious
statues in
its
in
small divisions
is
infinity
the coved
of
square
The
beautiful,
effect
and
'a
Sir
is
Double doors,
over their port
in
its
units,
the dining-room,
to
awkward
room convey an
length
Adam
of extreme delicacy.
effect
divided
it
To
con-
in
*w-r__i!
g.i
4*4^ V.
Jfy*QL
whom
reliefs,
of medallion portraits of
members of
and
among
At
either
in
the
in scale
and
Adam's work
at
it
to cover
Northumberland
remain
in the
last
The house
still
Duke
of
to
belongs to the
in
Anthony Ilobson
Celour-plaU
- L.s
l3?
'\
SYON HOUSE
A BIRD-CAGE
IN
ADAMS DRAWING
The
IN
1765
264
III.
<
II.INt
()!'
IS
-.
<
?
'V*
Youssoupoff Palace
The shade
Moika
the ice
is
flaunting a stately
Moika, however,
its
faqade
to
94
stains
on
visitor
tell-tale
in his
mind's eye
debauched
If the
monk who
refused to die.
the
shadows of
not
fall
Moika
was
sad-
dened by the mute presence, immured behind the bed, of the decaying
corpse of a young revolutionary loved by the beautiful and amorous
Zenai'de Ivanovna, Princess Youssoupoff,
of captivity
is
in the
Swiaborg Fortress
in
out
Moscow
house,
Mus-
covite roofs with a concealed tunnel leading directly into the Kremlin
itself.
When
open up
this
seven
mile long passage, the grim record of the blind cruelty of Ivan the
Terrible, the original
shudder
268
at;
all
to
:i*t
Lennart Olson
269
MP
*
Tit
%
\"
1'
|'-t
^B
Ull
-*
&
S
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i\\
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i. ..Sj^i
o
/
>*-
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N. -v. >S"//
A2*
.4<f
\vV
,A*
Lennart Olson
tomb
damp
The
was
a present
The
architect
it
work
recent.
It
five
more
is
gift
in
The
last
manner and
it
was addicted
//Q2Jt*<'
*
6ffi
'
tr V
T^ '"$ AW/""
RASPCTIX
IN
t*.
HOSPITAL AFTER
THE ATTEMPT ON
just as this
of the original
many
<
HIS LIFE
its
is
his
as well
colonnade leading to
work Mas
design,
able,
subsequent activity
has
all
successfully
had retained
is
it
spoiled
is
ball-
and
evidence
rooms and
270
Palladian
the garden.
fit 7KV-1 -
W m&t-n>-
to the
'
'in
in
1830
Lennart Olson
of de Gault and
much of
and columns.
The
lovely
Princess
the excessive
Zenai'de
woman
Empire
Youssoupoff
passed away
who
in
of
whom we
have
patisserie clinging to
it,
with a
Moika
she
citisse legere,
Palace.
was
it
In spite of
entwined
sihle,
initials
incorporated
in the
inspired
It
doorway leading
is
to the
'Y's,
single
each
Arab-
many
as
filing
up the
de
la
casions supper
would
lie
served
Petersburg aristocracy.
in
the galleries, a
titillate
On
the
these oc-
foyer leading
oft
below.
Lcnnart Olson
272
The
YOUSSOUPOFF PALACE
which appears
furniture
photographs accompanying
the
in
filled
de-
this
scription; they
Lonnart OIhou
vk.
<m
examples
Rembrandts,
by
Hooch and
Watteau,
Claude,
the
all
Fragonard,
Boucher,
re-
ft
'
sculptors
others.
all
palace
this
in
their
personal jewels
most valuable
Many
the world.
in
Ador and
Scharft are
in collections
spread over
now
Gold Room of
in the
Hermitage or
the
<
Europe.
The
ris
it
was
Bo-
to Price
owed
foundation
its
first
in
Catherine, his son Prince Nicolas was put in charge of the Imperial
The
Theatres.
and devoting
life
Paris
in
he
is
to
see
play or a ballet.
It
is
XV
the palace
down
be set
that
bably was -
in
however
its
form, nearly
original
must again
all
THE BALLROOM
may have
Lennart Olson
result of the
as a
felicitous this
it
Imperial
it
had
allowing us to
is
feel,
at least,
some of
it
is
excellent,
is
it
transcends judgement.
The
one has the impression that some demented pastry cook has been
lowed
to
icing sugar.
One admirable
its
retain in the
memory
oppressive richesses
in
steel-lined
German
artist
the
Liebhardt.
of the ground
and upper
December night
underground room,
is
celestial
narrow
with golden
What we
filled
al-
hastily
man
and
in
floors,
1916 and
secretly furnished
to his death.
Here he was
still
A. Kenneth Snowman
273
<J*
'nil
-ql
*^H
*"i
7%
hi
hi
"1 Mil
]"|
--
'
II
llj
Queluz
A
rose-pink palace
the PALACE OF QUELUZ
enon
in
Along
scarcely
lies
front gates.
set in a
water-garden
more than
miles
five
from
its
phenom-
modern encroachment.
line,
fold in the
so that, apart
from
hills
the
ground likewise
electric lighting,
that have
marks
two centuries
built.
Versailles, but
its
icent,
it
is
all
effect
indeed - and
this
outside
The
metalwork or even
analogy
is
icing-sugar.
The
general
is
The
later
I.
opposite:
.vyp:
The
original plan
Dom
to his
own
Dom
Joao V,
Queen Maria
275
Ql'ELUZ
THE FORECOl RT
worked under Ludovice of Ratisbon on
of Mafra; and later the French sculptor and architect, Jean Baptiste
Robillon was called
Building began
engaged on
it
in to
in
co-operate.
like
is
men
1755, the
of this disaster
in
may have
in
At any
rate,
Queluz,
every other building erected near the capital after the earthquake,
From
gardens, indeed,
it
resembles not so
much
a single
mass
the
as a series
more
than two storeys, tacked one upon another to form several low wings.
The gardens
276
The
designed
in the spirit
statuary.
Here
in
in
is
in
the water
sit
on the edge
- no douht
in
the
very position of the two lead figures that can he seen on the edge of
the
box-hedged
alleyways, the eccentric William Beckford once ran races with the
QUEEN MARIA
The
by two
equestrian
allegorical
is
OF PORTUGAL
statues
of
visible
is
repeated more
than once in the statuary of the gardens, where, for example, classical
representations of the
Rape of
the Sabines
human monkeys
a fancy-dress ball.
Beyond
cascade - the
first artificial
and
a grotto
equipped with
path leads to the lower garden and the Robillon wing. Here the romantic gives
way
An
THE
KING'S
BEDROOM
balustrade,
case,
flight,
a single
monumental spreading
and withe
ami other
marine scenes.
This distinctively Portuguese form of decorative tilework,
too frequently suggestive of kitchens or public lavatories,
arly well suited to these surroundings,
foliage
forming
is
all
particul-
natural association
canal.
It
to Portugal during
sail
that
Lord Kinnoul,
the British
Ambassador
entertainments for which the palace was then famed throughout Europe.
hills,
into
veritable
278
The
much
interior oi
perished
else that
in
1934, and
in
fire
the Haines
of
room
is
among
in
The
Mangas,
wall-
only
The
other rooms,
all
in
One
of the earliest
in the
Dom
and
his
and
signed
who
court-
The music room, built in 1759 but redeadjoining throne room are likewise distinguished
ladies in waiting.
in
crystal chandeliers.
is
Dom
Pedro
- the work of Joao Valentin and Jose Conrado Rosa, who were also
responsible for the delightful mirror panels in the Queen's dressing-
repeated
is
When Dom
was completed.
in the floor
Pedro
from the
In
somewhat marred by
rooms
set of
remain
in
in
the palace,
in
Queen whose
Her
son, later
to
religious
eldest living
to escape the
imminent French
invasion,
the
sequently
commandeered by Napoleon's
victorious
needed skylight
in
the so-called
a romantic portrait of
ed
1827 during
in
On
palace
his
of
Dom
his exile in
Mafra, no doubt
Doha
fell
Miguel, paint-
to
Dom
1821,
avoid
the
fantastic
little
proximity
but
it
was
of
in
his
fierce
Queluz that
bedroom with
a circular
None
contains
Carlota Joaquina
in
Dom
virago of a wife,
domed
Don
Quixote.
into disrepair
The
edifice
gradually
In
1908, however, the palace became State property and since then an
enterprising government has restored
at least to
its
it,
if
not to
its
ancient splendour,
former beauty.
Xan
Fielding
279
QUELUZ
TIIF.
The
Hall of the
Ambassadors,
by Robillon,
1757
REFLECTIONS IN A MIRROR
280
SPLElfDlD LIGHTNESS OF
THE
IIAI.I.
OF THE AMBASSADORS
Trianon
Petit
The
jewel of de
their
White House,
how even
understand
powering and
well say on
a Revolution'.
seeing Ver-
first
They
will certainly
the
built, first,
see the
knowing
Frederiksborg,
To
their
may
Trianon
in psychological,
historical
and architectural
first,
pass by the
that they
The
in the
XV
XIV
Louis
wishing to have
anil
as well as
more complicated,
who
for Gabriel,
built
The
at the time.
Concorde:
As
in
it
is
way from
the Gabriel
same
The
architect
explanation
demanded
his Place
de
la
282
a long
a cross-reference
a perfect
is
at the
opposite:
IT
WAS BUILT
t
I
PETIT TRIANON
one passes the Grand Trianon. One should pause at the north end
Here
of the Trianon-sous-Bois.
room with
it,
WERE SLIGHTLY
ALTERED IN EXECUTION, top: THE EAST FACADE; top right: THE NORTH; and above: THE
SOUTH FACADE
One
change
in
style;
little
- and
what
it,
unadorned windows;
five
it
is!
Trianon
columns; a terrace and some steps: with these few features, Gabriel
has
made
faultless
below:
a foretaste of the
Rounding
GABRIEL'S ORIGINAL DESIGNS
is
'If
work
only
of
it
art.
*'
^m^^' ^mm^
.
m,
**
atow:
<m
PETIT TRIANON
It
all
only
'If
were
it
larger!'.
Walking clockwise around it. one sees the north front; five tall
windows with live small windows ahovc; four columns; above these.
The even
compared
east side,
least see
simplicity.
illogically
The
riel's
windows,
five tall
ustrade
The
disappointing:
is
in line
in
to the others,
greater simplicity
the
on
floor;
walls of the
support stand
solid
this
five
completely
What Mozart
different variation
court-
little
could do
in
Though
1774
toinette,
it
was, in
Pompadour.
is
When
XV
of Louis
he became interested
in
Madame
and
de
botanical gardening, he
extended his plans beyond the Grand Trianon. In 1750 he commissioned Gabriel to build there the Salon de compagnie
Salon de conversations
et
now known
de musique,
de jeu or
ct
the
as
Pavilion
owing
in
to her death,
it
and
Madame
was not
From
it
governments to restore
to the Petit
monogram
the
little
for
stairs
some
room
have
lie
just
into the
inside
Italianate swags,
is
own.
a life of its
the
first
The
entrance.
floor.
except
stair-well,
Beyond
severely classical.
lies
was
The
XV
it
then became.
until
really begin to
It
in practice,
1770.
finished until
see
still
a small ante-
where the
din-
fully-loaded,
that the
There
is
charming
a little
little
and looks
or, possibly
salon with
some
fine
into Louis
is
all.
The
THE BELVEDERE
286
little
feeling of
then a
superb
into Marie-
Jacob sideboard,
little
boudoir, decor-
unlived-in;
bathroom
things,
little
including
furniture,
Reisener table.
Antoinette's
Marie Antoinette
is,
in
and
later
ages,
there
itself.
Mar-
the inside
is
merely
museum.
Ill
in
in
Ml
in
in
it
Gabriel.
ings.
'I
Where Marie
most go
to
Madame
mark
is
on the surround-
thought
mad
must be
or dreaming.
Louis
Pompadour and
de
XV
had had
landscape of
cascade.
hills,
his hot-houses,
d' Amour,
architect,
Belvedere
Mique, her
acres of land
had designed a
theatre,
Temple
Le Riche on
the
scaping of
Le Notre,
Going even
Petit
she
made
further, topographically
Hameau,
Breton tower.
the
The
little
Marie Antoinette's
built her
life,
to
far.
The
Pal-
another kind.
there she
Robin McDouall
287
left:
right:
PETIT TRIANON
*n these small
rooms
cimmiJ
<
^;
Arbury Hall
Tudor
the
first
of expression.
shell grottoes,
took for
It
its
many
curious forms
silver epergnes,
its
under
'to
assumed
it
in this
taste
reached England
The
Arbury Hall
The
the
is
it
Middle Ages
among
result
supreme example.
Walpole, Batty Langley, and Sanderson Miller, bore the most superficial
it
is
conveniently
number of English
buildings,
all,
endearing, and
Arbury,
it
it
lively
and
The Newdegates,
the
present
owners of Arbury,
it
was
have
their Elizabethan
Roger Newdigate
lived
mansion
290
was
domed
opposite:
forehead, and
ARBURY HALL
Arhury
Inheriting
he was
its
Member
of
as a boy,
as befitted an eight-
life,
Though
and
intelligence
were
erel,
later
his
oil
^^^H
the
Arbury
estate, his
charm of
several
architects
Miller,
whose
ert
was not
seat
far off
Radway, and
at
Rob-
certainly
Warwickshire
is
surprising.
eighty
when
the last fragile cusp and crocket were executed, there are few
suites
The
Arbury
delight of
is
missed
if
of conventional Gothic.
He
in
it
terms
will
is
Bow
elegance of
by Chippendale.
lery
than
better
is
all
The
key
pendants,
the
vaults,
fluted
At Arbury
Sup-
to please,
is
forms
essential
pure decoration.
are
pillars,
The
Europe.
northern
of
the
Gal-
to the
Long
cathedrals
the
porcelain or the
is
trefoil
and
crestings,
tra-
filigree
-.M9
wmfm
t3
chase,
Arbury
1708
Sir
the
arts,
<
in-
Roger
is
half
its
charm.
best seen
is
undertaking
levity of the
itself
SIR
Appointments
in
March,
owed much
initially to the
front with
its
rococo
spirit.
From
projecting bays,
its
its
south
traceried windows,
its
vi
movement
sense of busy
1761.
f*^VC**.
is
message.
The
unconvincing.
medium
is
interior
in
Arbury
is
is
perhaps
the thing.
east
known
as
Here
and south
'The
its
little
taste,
and
light-hearted
stilted,
little
a succession of enchantfronts,
Cloisters',
In these
t6*
rococo
exterior of
The
ing Gothick
that Sir
and with
work of some
confectionery, the
'petrified lacework".
reminded of
ler
to the Saloon,
apartments
elaboration
inspired Escoffier.
The
whose fan-vaulted
ac-
chalk, or celestial
in
ceiling of extraordinary
derived
is
rooms seem,
and
Westminster,
at
is
The drawing-room
that adjoins,
ple of
Gothick glazing
with
in
the country.
and
ceiling
come
logical culmination,
Lastly, a
The
discordant elements.
its
Gothick, yet
in its successful
in their
and
library.
of the Elizabethan
site
The framework
mullioned windows
Gothick wall-work.
the
in
the dining-room
and
framed
portraits
full-length
and barreled
with
its
hall,
is
marriage of apparently
sumptuous fan-vaulting
is
firmly
in
Mary
jewelled stomacher, or
digate)
whose beauty
The
Above
an early
(sister-in-law of
Fitton
most compelling
elements.
is
is
in lace ruff
THE STABLES
and
New-
curious setting.
in this
happy blend of
classical
and rococo
and
de
flairs
lys.
This prepares
wholly
ceiling painted
the classical
in
windows
in the
room
is
its
colour.
Through
of white bookcases, the gilded ceiling, and the surfaces of old leather
bindings that seem as soft as velvet.
is
The
effect,
unusually harmonious,
not of plaster, paint, and books, but of ivory, gold and amber.
In these
to
their interest,
is
which includes
ington,
in
its
remarkable.
Its
execution
his
marquetry of the
late
Duke
is
XV
col-
no
of Suf-
in
Wash-
folk before
rich
work by
almost comparable
is
lections at
less
The
the
commodes,
when
is
Sir
Much
Time
has
also
left
the
imprint
of
the
Long
tel
sixteenth
and seven-
was incomplete
in the
survive,
and
in
the
is
floor.
The
latter,
conceived
II.
The powerful
WINDOW
293
W^
i>-_
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:rtw
;XT7!w
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s<7
9T%
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...'
ARBURY HALL
THE LIBRARY
its
opposite:
THE DRAWING-ROOM
plump garlands of
work
of
fruit
Edward Martin,
and
flowers,
London
its
flourishing acanthus,
is
the
in taste
from
stables,
The
stables are of
bury
its
in
is
set in
a type
horses almost
its
immense yet
Wren made
several
more
Warwickshire.
Long
is
set.
Robin Fedden
left:
295
ARBURY HALL
1*3.
A SMALL SITTING-ROOM
II
297
1780
d Hane-Steenhuyse
Hotel
The King's
ON
march
Provence.
retreat
On
his courtiers,
him
to
make
fly
from the
vague idea of
his
was
Tuileries.
final
the coast of
but a few of
all
He
Some advised
destination.
welcome
He
in Brussels,
recalled,
make
his
way
to
Ghent.
Comte d'Hane-Steenhuyse. After an exhausting jourKing reached Ghent and called on his former host, who re-
of
all
the
him
He
a small court,
Governments of Europe.
is
busiest street. In
family that
still
owns
it.
town and
into the
in
its
hands of the
Comte de Nieu-
landt and Lisbekc, acquired the property in that year, but his succes-
sors,
298
opposite:
*T*
A-*
%.
"*4
*K*.
**
employed
on the
place
its
their
as
the
David
architects
who
Kint,
't
built
who
its
the
in
They
facade
1773 de-
elegant window.
The French and Italians who were invited to decorate the interior made it as gay as it was sumptuous. On the ground floor, completed in 1781, there is a suite of rooms of delightful elegance. Of
these the most remarkable
rises to the full height
the
is
Italian
of the house.
On
a marvellous
Feilt of
five
Paris,
types of precious
six
in
floor a
which took
floor,
achievement of marquetry
first
wood. This was the room where Louis XVIII amused himself with
his larger dinner-parties
ings,
it
is
his
glancing through the windows as they passed by the house, would see
him preparing
Salon Vert
is
as hors d'oeuvres,
to eat,
tapestries,
The
is
decor.
The
wall-panels by
Van Reyschoot
aristocracy of
Ghent
in
little
dining-room,
depicting
the countryside
is
members of
and
at
named
the contemporary
home. The
man who
shown
enjoyed teasing
the overturning of a
caused a considerable
from
his face.
window by
The
stir in
lady's
Ghent
carriage,
at the time,
after the
artist,
who
was obviously
is
is
had
observed
very evident on
Comte d'llane
caused him to have the figure of the priest changed into that of a
young man.
(1702-1771)
CUP
THE BALLROOM
CEILING, BY PIERRE
below:
THE SALLE
A LITALIENNE, OR IJAI.LROOM
LANDS* MM
IN
BY VAN REYSSCHOOT
THE ROOM
IN'
WHICH
I.OI IS
WORKED
The
other rooms
in
made
wall-paper
lotel
among
Company
Belgian
house remained
first
floor with
in
in
d'Hane Steenhuyse
the
the
room on
private
a reputation
houses
of
which
its
almost unequalled
is
period.
Until
1905
the
born there. But when their careers took them to Brussels, and they
had no further
it
as a
Museum
1947.
in
The
public can
I
of Russia, William
any other
visitor's,
oons adorned by
will
many
and reopened
the
rooms
of Holland, Tal-
sal-
opposite:
IN
**
mil
4J
^^LUZX
-'
Lazienki
The
who
traveller
ap-
proached the capital of Poland from the south and passed before the
imposing
castle,
Ujazdow
centre of the
estate
vast gardens sloping towards the Vistula, could see the cupolas of a
was the
At
patron of the
arts,
he embellished the
the third
artist,
in
and rest-chambers,
adorned with
richly
stucco,
in Polish)
in
included
manner, bathrooms
statues
and
pictures.
The
estate
towski, a noble
was bought
who was
in
up
his
Ujazdow on
all
this in
the
his efforts
304
last
mind, he began by
hill,
a project
re-
which he
a villa-residence.
This became
states-
opposite:
LAZIENKI
man though
the
in
realm of culture and the arts and one of the most illustrious patrons
Europe.
in
He
most
Warsaw. He
at
round him
part,
at his court
The
whole scheme was under the supervision of the Master of the Court
who
in the
1784.
The
time.
Between 1788 and 1793 the old Pavilion of the Baths was
present south faqade was built onto the old edifice at this
to the existing
The
in
as in the interior
on the part of
hausted
his
Poland came
in
into being;
it
was
handsome gesture
who had
already ex-
specimen of neo-classicism
finest
at the
is
attractive
a beautiful
in
The
shadow. The
grounds.
its
clearly
its
ingeniously
an unusual motif
flourish.
down
to the
lies in
portico-niche,
The
sections are
belvedere,
classical
light
The
Europe. The
The
in
light walls.
its
relation to the
makes an
Its terrace is
inviting
embellished with
galleries
both sides - towards the flanking pavilions which merge into the trees
of the park.
We
glance shifts from natural setting to architecture, and the sunlit volumes
brown gravel of
The more
Nor
ing
in a flight
garden
The
Palace any
inspiration, are
architect,
interest-
in
its
general
less
neo-classical archi-
of Jean Plersch.
away
of steps.
306
the avenues
tecture in Europe.
its
in
much an
in
in
warm
vogue
work
much
in
Jean-Baptiste
evidence
in this
room
in
Wc
owe
rooms
Solomon Room
the so-called
in
more exuberant
to the
effects.
He
huge
allotted
to paintings of biblical
and
al-
is
surrounding park.
its
Edward Hartwlfr
much
in
the English
in
Romantic
It
style,
so
charm
at
some
the building of
its
in
The
work
nislaus Augustus.
arm of
audience by an
from the
of retiring to
and leaving
it
work and, on occasion, gave grand receptions and, fremore intimate ones. Of the latter the Thursday dinner-parties,
he did his
quently,
conversational brilliance.
He
their
in his
made
lection specially
pay for
to
The
it
in
his
the palace
political
to abdicate
and
duties
left
it
it
and
his
He was
reign collapsed.
At
century
in
interior of
king failed
compelled
and
it,
him
for
the
remained up
to
1918,
when
it
in
open
its
man
It
occupation,
it
During the
siege of
large-scale destruction of
Warsaw
But when at the end of the year 1944, Hitler's troops blew up
buildings
which
still
remained
Two
the
Germans no time
the
intact,
all
tragic
pletion.
The
splendour.
It
is
it,
finest
left
the
hour
internally, to
Edward Hartwig
distinguished
to the public.
re-
externally and
is
nearing com-
to their
Museum
of
former
Warsaw
to the public.
Stefan Kozakiczvicz
THE 'WHITE
IIOLSE',
A PAVILION
IN
THE PARK
307
LAZIENKI
nJHHfli
THE SOLOMON ROOM, WITH BIBLICAL PAINTINGS BY BACCIARELLI
AN ANTE-CHAMBER
IN
308
The
is its
below:
THE BALL-ROOM
IS
VERY FRENCH
IN INSPIRATION
LA/1EXKI
DUTCH TILES
310
*zm
Caska
'A
Labrador
del
little
ARANJUEZ
is A
miracle. Thirty
miles south of
dry, yellow
and
summer
the
is
Castile
a
is
was
summer
famous strawberries
its
little
New
it
in
in
else in
Madrid
when
the mediaeval
handed
bella.
it
The
existing
tury by Philip
and
his
built in the
mid-eighteenth cen-
is
And
in imitation
at the
rulers
from
whose
bottom
IV and
by Goya.
The
Casita del Labrador was no doubt built with the conscious re-
collection of
Trianon
at Versailles in the
mind of
The
site
is
built in the
still
form of
opposite:
313
The
extremity by railings.
buildings of this type,
all
is
courtyard,
customary
as
in
neo-classical
Roman
statues,
emperors. These
stand out against the pink and white brick of the Casita del Labrador
itself,
closely
approach the
house.
Inside, the principal
tained.
This
is
and
first
floor
is
pillars.
This leads to
del
complained the
now
idiotic
Buen
Retiro, of
('How can
is
a suite of eight-
furniture and,
among
other
cannot get
all
my
clocks to
keep the right time?'). The most splendid rooms are those associated
with
Queen Maria
Luisa,
in
particular
its
314
c*
%%
1803
magnificent tapestry and the fine baroque ceiling of the four seasons
artist,
Maella.
fine
room
room
heavily encrusted
much 'Pompeian'
imitations - as
European
of
taste.
Roman
of Italian
was
(There
heads.)
cities:
The
is
off this
to
Pompeian
style,
is
Ferdinand VII.
the royal bath-
it
of copies
used
full
Opening
development of
when
the Royal
in
formal
slightly less
cir-
cumstances than was inevitable at the big palace nearer the town.
The most
functional
service
staircase.
On
is
perhaps the
its
walls,
the
painter Zacarias Gonzalez Velazquez (brother of the architect) has depicted a brilliant series of dancing portraits, one of his
own
son, another
but so
little
whom
Hugh Thomas
CHARLES
IV
315
The
is
VELAZQUEZ
end of the
opposite:
18th century!]
AJ
&4*d**MB&&ti*)d
ii'aa^**'^B.".Tii-atiii'att'aa2i-aa-ia nii."3tt'au.'3ariana^ia'
i
LA!
i. .
.
21
9***
*
''
tif *i
W^
f
..
* **
!
WV
'
"lit
*1
*'
'i
nrrn min
m irrrrmrrry
THE BILLIARD-ROOM
Exquisite care
little
palace
THE SALA CORUNNA
opposite:
318
vVqKJ
'
v* : ^
Acknowledgements
The Editor
anil Publishers
below.
etc.) listed
name of each
The
house.
follows
INTRODUCTION:
14
(Heidelberg)
(Hampton Court,
C.
du Chateau dc
Information Bureau,
Denmark,
British
14,
Beloeil,
13,
(Beloeil).
Museum,
15
PALAIS SCIIWARZENBERG:
Netherlands
15 (Clausholm). Ryksvoorlichtingsdinst,
15
(Huys
of
ten Bosch).
(Krummau)
CHATEAUDUN:
The
State
and
(inscription
Mantova. Soprintendenza
di
alle Gallerie di
The
State
(Monuments
Historiques).
Mansell Collection, 70
Museum, London,
EGESKOV:
78
Grafin Sch6nborn.
Lazzaro.
Museo
CAPRAROLA: The
State.
Civico, Turin,
Pommersfelden\ by
II.
Kreisel,
portrait), 211
CLAYDON:
214, 216
RUSSBOROUGH:
Sir
Alfred
Beit.
Duke
fiir
Kultur).
of Devonshire). Trustees
portraits)
Parma, 109
SYON: Duke
YOUSSOUPOFF:
Leningrad
Town
of
HOTEL LAMBERT:
TANLAY:
QUELUZ: The
la
Museum, 277
Chauvinierc. Victoria
portraits)
ARBURY: Humphrey
Milan, 131
VAUX-LE-VICOMTE: Madame
WILTON
and
251.
ISOLA BELLA:
BENRATH:
&
Maurizio
dei SS.
200 (Juvara)
of the D. D. R. (Ministerium
Sans Souci Archives, 246. British Museum, 244
Collection, 95
of
STUPINIGI: Ordine
VILLA MASER:
phot.,
60, 62, 63
THE NYMPIIENBURG:
WURZBURG:
&
Charles de Beistegui
CHAMBORD:
POMMERSFELDEN:
39
VILLA LANTE
PALAZZO LABIA M.
Hirmer Verlag,
of Medinaceli
v/d
181 (carpet)
Fesl,
198,
coin).
(Monuments Historiques)
Marche, 21
paintings). Rijksdienst
10 (Guadalajara).
Office,
AMSTERDAM:
11
(Cintra, Boboli),
Pienza),
475 HEERENGRACHT,
Hollandsche Societeit voor
Levensverzckeringen. Coll. Kon. Academic v. Wetenschappcn, 171, 172
DROTTNINGHOLM:
of Marlborough. British
HOTEL D'HANE:
Portrait Gallery,
300 (Wellington)
151.
America, 158
Museum,
(Beighton)
Fitzroy
162,
LAZIENKI:
314.
(all
three pictures)
H**i:;!i
F.
_i
*-
(fj*.
"Si
3*f
if
]
s
3
^P-
'I
z.^^m^m
-frt
"
-fc.
s^^ibi:
i^
ft^T
Bee
n
-3
^^^^1
volume are
these:
ENGLAND
Hardwick Hall; Wilton; Blenheim;
Syon; Claydon; Arbury
ITALY
Ducal Palace, Urbino; Villa Lante; Palazzo del Te;
Villa d'Este; Villa Barbaro, Maser; Caprarola;
Isola Bella;
FRANCE
Chateaudun; Chambord; Hotel Lambert;
Vaux-le-Vicomte; Petit Trianon; Tanlay
GERMANY
Pommersfelden; Bruhl; Benrath;
Residenz,
Wurzburg; Sans
Souci
SPAIN
Casa de Pilatos; Casita del Labrador; Palacio Liria
AUSTRIA
Palais Schwarzenberg; Tratzberg
BELGIUM
Hotel d'Hane-Steenhuyse
DENMARK
Egeskov
HOLLAND
475 Heerengracht, Amsterdam
IRELAND
Russborough
POLAND
Lazienki
PORTUGAL
Queluz
RUSSIA
The Youssoupoff
Palace, Leningrad
SWEDEN
Drottningholm
The authors of
Lionel Brett,
Ewan
Butler,
Princess
Caraman Chimay,
Dr Monk
'%