Professional Documents
Culture Documents
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Presented
to the
LIBRARY
of the
UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO
by
PRO^SSOR
R. F. McRAE
H. R. H.
PRINCE NICOLA
I.
MOTORING IN THE
BALKANS
ALONG THE HIGHWAYS OF
LIERA;.Y
ICIIO
Ea
fit) MfStijtr
A. m, K.
THE INDEFATIGABLE TRAVELER, THE WELL INFORMED
SIGHT-SEER, THE ENTHUSIAS^^IC MOTORIST
EVEN AT THE AGE OF EIGHTY,
THIS RECORD IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED
CONTENTS
CHAPTER
I.
II.
III.
IV.
V.
VI.
VII.
VIII.
IX.
X.
XI.
XII.
XIII.
XIV.
XV.
XVI.
XVII.
XVIII.
XIX.
XX.
XXI.
XXIII.
XXIV.
XXV.
XXVI.
XXVII.
XXVIII.
XXIX.
XXX.
Spalato
47
58
66
79
95
loS
.....
Clissa
Source of the Jadro
Salona
Metkovic
to
Spalato
Metkovic to Ragusa
.......
Ragusa
Lapad
Lacroma
Ragusa
Ragusa
Ragusa to Zelenika
Zelenika
Entering Montenegro
1x6
123
137
145
155
164
175
....
183
189
201
Cetinje
Back into Dalmatia
Ragusa to
211
......
Gacko
.
Jajce
17
27
PAGE
38
VIA Trebinje
XXII.
....
222
232
242
251
264
276
On to Bosnisch-Novi
Jajce to Banjaluka
Plitvica Lakes
Leaving Bosnia
285
306
Marburg
....
Index
295
317
327
vu
ILLUSTRATIONS
.....
.....
.....
......
.....
.....
.....
.....
Frontispiece
22
in
....
The
........
Diocletian's Palace,
Main
Facade, Spalato
23
30
31
31
40
41
63
68
69
84
85
85
90
91
91
100
100
lOI
108
.
....
.....
Countrywomen in Metkovic
With What Splendid Freedom She Walks (Ragusa)
The Green Omnibus to Gravosa
....
....
1
109
118
119
124
125
146
146
147
147
......
.....
......
....
22
156
157
166
167
176
177
184
185
ILLUSTRATIONS- CONTINUED
........
192
.....
....
The Struka
......
.....
.....
......
.......
.....
....
.....
.....
.....
199
199
204
I
205
20^)
Montenegrin Officers
207
2X2
218
At Castelnuovo
The Younger Generation are Adopting European Clothes Trebinje
,
A View
in
Sarajevo
......
....
95
19S
219
224
225
228
228
229
238
239
248
249
249
252
253
253
258
258
259
260
261
268
269
269
270
271
271
272
272
273
273
276
276
ILLUSTRATIONS CONTINUED
......
........
Jajce
....
279
280
.281
........
277
-277
.278
280
282
282
283
286
287
288
289
290
.....
291
292
293
293
296
297
300
301
310
310
311
Croatian Countrywomen
A Croatian Peasant
312
312
313
318
319
322
At the Semmering
323
318
XI
DATE
MOTORING
IN
THE BALKANS
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
CHAPTER
"ILJOW
would you
like to
go
to
Dalmatia
this
year?"
Montenegro, the Herzegovina, Bosnia, Croatia. He apparently did not see our startled countenances nor hear our
explosive comments.
"Dalmatia!"
"In an automobile?"
^'Can we?"
Thus
in
trio
simultaneously
an-
swered.
"Why
away nor
But
What
it
"It
reply.
is
so difficult to reach."
me
to
it
sounded
What
name
visions of
How
planet.
Dalmatia!
danced before
my
excited fancy!
17
MOTORING
"You know
THE BALKANS
IN
narrow
that
strip of
a consciousness of
voice of the
my
Leader
at the
same moment.
is
**It
has been a
last century.
Zara,
For the
spirit of the
pioneer
is
life
have become
necessities.
"Are
maps?" questioned
the Enthusiast
incredulously.
map
It is difficult to get
am
going to
the roads, but as there are few railroads the highways should
be in so
vestigate
We
months,
if
for
The
in-
from
May
have to
possible inquiries
any reason we
we can always turn back. April and
place to place
shall
much snow on
it
the
interest.
"But how do we
from?" queried
get into
Dalmatia?
Where do we
start
shall
recommend
The
map
cannot
of Europe.
spoke volumes.
"Trieste, of course,
is
went
"Oh,
It 's far
too gay!"
"If
"
a small hotel in a
composedly proceeded the Leader,
beautiful garden, an apartment where the sun floods every
room all day long, a cuisine both varied and tempting, would
the mere fact of
at least trying
We
its
trial.
So
it
up neglected and
half-
many a
MOTORING
us to leave as
it
THE BALKANS
IN
had been
to
bit of
before us.
We
had by
this
maps with
curiously
last
rules
remember four
pronounced
like tch:
without accent
formed that
and
same as
it
is
felt
only necessary
so helpless:
like ts:
in Italian.
j is
with accent
We
were
in-
in the large
readily understood
be relied
we no longer
rules,
like y:
names
Of our
is
at
used.
speak.
at
pied-a-terre for
upon.
many a
this
time as a mere
Segni, of Palestrina
and San
my
must wait
for
Dalmatia
Up by
is
nearer
start.
at Urbino, Pesaro,
and
Rimini, having followed the old Via Emilia almost the endistance from
tire
Rome.
The combination
much
that
is
delight to the
of old customs
and
traditions with
upon
could prepare one for the fascinating picture which the win-
dow
revealed as
Black-hulled
at
anchor on the
glittering
I leaned in ecstasy
upon
tired elbows,
Freighters
arrived
ferry
American
alertness, apparently
MOTORING
early Spring.
From
THE BALKANS
IN
moving
monster
craft.
can compare in picturesqueness or in grace with the gayly colored cargo-boats from
little,
Chioggia, their orange and brown sails patched in varying tones, their stripes of green or red or blue around the
clumsy
hulls,
their
wind or hanging
a long
From a market-boat at an
procession of women with
my
but
my
either side
of
forest of
masts
vantage post;
prosaically
One
the
more
men were
Two
it
at
belongs to another
class
of
labor!
The
waiting oxen,
me
reminded
of Italy.
'*-
H
w
"
ket day,"
and
It
my
seizing
must be mar-
It
kodak,
plunged into
The heaps
sails,
of oranges
and country
and
trio of brilliantly
"
Dalmatians
They looked
"snap" them
fierce
and
colors of the
openly.
"
!
so big
Their
weapons
of war;
I say
allowed to
utensils.
was no
less intimidating.
market-place looking as
frame.
gathered fulness,
if
she had
come out
of a picture
deep netted fringe, over which was draped a black neckerchief brocaded with green flowers, and on her head she wore
a black kerchief whose large magenta peonies outshone the
"Do
you
realize
familiar voice at
that
I started to follow
it
is
when
my elbow; "and
her
that
we
MOTORING
Of
course
THE BALKANS
IN
wc climbed up
the
none-too-sweet-
steep,
"Arco
di Ricardo,"
infor-
mation.
"After
tradition,
Richard
Caur
de
according to
Lion, who,
his return
from Pales-
tine."
I
tory so
much more
much more
interesting
and
So
it
it
makes
the personages
was easy
to
his-
seem so
imagine that
which half
in playfulness
they rededicated to
Roman
him
this
half-hidden remnant of a
triumphal arch!
and modern
in
charm
courts,
The
present church
was evolved
in the fourteenth
and
also
Roman
some
temple.
The tombstones
in the fagade,
exceedingly curious.
From
and the
sea,
About
a beau-
in
park which is freely thrown open to the public. Imagine a garden of flowers and vines and shrubs of fountains
tiful
of trees
but
no
to blossom,
and when
and hedges;
grass.
visit
It is
of stone
wonderfully
the wistaria
was
just
through
must be
ready
magical.
The
its
Hyacinths and
was
for-
effective.
Black
world his heart did not sometimes ache with longing for the
quiet of this beautiful home; and a picture of the desolate
field at
my
mind.
In turning away,
almost touched a
way
little
bird which
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
a touching trustfulness
volumes
this royal
domain.
in the
human
26
CHAPTER
II
TRIESTE TO ABBAZIA
\X7'E had
we
Here
tia.
and conveniences
at its
door we
of
motor
the trip.
We
Dalma-
made
travelling in
friendly soul
maps,
who had
five
fortnight four
last
into Dalmatia.
might as well
be stated here that we never saw any of these adventurous
tourists in ail our wanderings, and heard of only one of them
Perhaps, however,
it
shipped his car back to Trieste by steamer and took the next
boat himself.
Trieste
is
any
maps
to
of the motorist.
But
at the
MOTORING
by automobile instead
means of locomotion
THE BALKANS
IN
of keeping to the
well-known and
tried
the steam-boat.
It
to preface
Leader
Istria.
Parenzo with
its
high-lying campanile,
Amphitheatre and
frieze
and above
all
Roman Temple
"
erected in B. C. 19,
in excellent preservation"!
still
But upon
you
will,
by
rail if
its
this jour-
''By steamer
The
Mud
and
leave this
"
''It is
"
With a garden,
too, the
joyously.
of the Adriatic.
28
Up
TRIESTE TO ABBAZIA
rolling surface of the high plateau
we bowled, and
at
each
of us
Dalmatia?"
the
scenes.
walking briskly along the highway, a huge basket of marketing lightly poised on each sleek head, big milk cans slung
over their shoulders, and a broad smile of
sympathetic
Content.
"It
is
an
What
is
the
same thing."
olive branch,"
"To-morrow
their
in
quietly.
Palm Sunday."
a desolate country!
On
our
left
the
Gran Kapella
is
except an occasional
muddy
reservoir
river,
by the
washed the
alluvial soil;
but
These oases
relief to the
in the desert
hills
At Castelnuovo there
29
is
actually
MOTORING
an
inn,
"Narodni Dom."
tumes.
THE BALKANS
IN
we
We
see
first
note
some
carefully in case of
it
trimmed with a
The names
become more
of the villages
we reach
Slavic,
Ostrogoths, look
of
this height,
Was
it
itself of
sea.
down from
Hrusica,
mounof the
their families
led
upon the Roman city of Tergeste? Surely over that snowy mountain range the Slavs
and Avars advanced in that singular "wandering of the
cliflEs
But
jerk,
my thoughts were
for,
we met a
mail-carrier's
cart.
cart
which remained
all his
We
to
behave
30
all
Fortunately
might and in
looked at one
the horses in
r~
b(
TRIESTE TO ABBAZIA
Over the summit
down
coasted
again
of the pass
Sapjane
their
own
to divert the
ports of
and
at
other pass.
interior
we bowled and
commerce
Muggia and
of the
Pirano, the
fortified these
very passes
Now
the road
is
artillery
Then a group
skirts
of
women
in native costumes.
us.
made with
trimmed
full sleeves.
effect.
from Trieste, we
stopped again for the view. Far below us, the rock-girt island
of Cherso extended
its
narrow length;
to
the
right
the
Maggiore,
lines,
arms.
its
seeming to
The
hold the
little
and
scattering haze,
in the
to Abbazia.
31
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
off
The
sides
hill-
in sheltered corners
As we swung
it
into
tossed
flowery bells upon us, and the sails of the fishing boats in the
What
richness of coloring!
is
How
What
beautiful!
So
this
Abbazia!
There
is
and
ance
close
by
The
birds were!
less the
had made
us,
and
in a villa near
my
How
fear-
whose acquaint-
Rome
tangle to pick
marked
hills,
where
all
"Zu den
the
min."
On
the
Jurasevo Ulica the blue lobelia and the low pinkish mint
32
TRIESTE TO ABBAZIA
delicate green, the spiky smilax looked delicate
until
you touched
its
end
make
effective as
The method
tern.
"Even
ast.
About
fectly dry."
our
it is
own more
conventional pat-
are well
after the
And by
so simple, too.
is
"These paths
sensitive
brooms, quite as
and
heavy rains of
five feet
wide, of
last
fine,
well-packed gravel,
"Look
Enthusiast a
moment
later
in
"
coming up the
at those peasants
if
exclaimed
And
these
flat
women,
wooden
their
kodaked them?"
Madame
Content.
barrels, strapped
skirts
Do
in costume.
cumbersome
at
Coal
"
it
Can
was,
on their backs!
To
On
the
promenade
much
The
six
attention
making a
frill
tionate size
33
MOTORING
which hung
THE BALKANS
IN
in a flat
About
Lovrana,
five
less
walks on the
is
hillsides.
The
and movement.
villas
Her
tiny
her frivolous
mended
sails
their
brown
We
nets.
fol-
In this diversion, at
least, all
momen-
tarily forgotten.
I think
it
Arbe
whom we
main
street in
Her
long, red-figured
liberal proportions,
tight-fitting sleeves,
costume.
How
soft,
Perhaps
it
was
this train of
34
TRIESTE TO ABBAZIA
Gentle Lady, one cloudy morning, to exclaim unexpectedly,
am
"I
We
her;
we sympathized with
Western
for there
The
times a day
elevator
many
laughed, but
we
ride
boy
arrive
no matter how
A maid disappear-
up and down.
The
who
waiter
It is all
but this
is
very well
It
impossible.
demands
^'Guien
it,
Fortunately a plain
not to respond.
fails to
if
''
of etiquette,
and
if
on. enter-
busy
"Yes?" remarked
"What do you
tent
One.
just
Hke
made
The
suppose
it is
it!
that
Why,
way
they're
to kneel
all
upon
if
"They
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
not pretty.
are certainly
They
draughty.
for foot-rests
if
the lloor
look
They
Of
"Bootjacks!
''That
this
course."
is
just
what they
Germany,
in
arc.
my room
in
who
all
remember."
wear boots.
officers
It is
a bootjack!"
"Do
in
fast
you suppose we shall ever have to order our breakSlavic?" asked the Enthusiast anxiously.
'Tt 's
pretty long."
Of
Rather odd.
quizzically
course
make
demanded
it
the Leader.
as simple as possible.
Coffee with milk, bread and butter, one egg boiled four
minutes.
cetiri
Kafa
minut.^
"
sa
miljeko, hljcb
I finished
amid peals
of laughter
and the
commiserating glances of
my companions.
have a chance to use that carefully
prepared sentence," encouraged the Leader, "but I would
not waste time learning any more."
"I do hope you
"Oh,
sure I
just
may want
to
ova
selo?'
first
will
Say
it
ask the
it 's
fast
name
of a village or a flower
and
it
"I
'
Kako
feel
some-
sc zove
word."
We
when we think
36
of our elaborate
TRIESTE TO ABRAZIA
preparations, our forchodinji^s, our flouhts and our fears.
must confess
tliat
tlie
feminine camp,
the other side was far too sensible for misgivings, and only
filled
vvilh
pleasurable expectation
37
in
contemplating our
CHAPTER
III
ABBAZIA TO ZENGG
TT
was
at
limited to such as
Our
car
was
and a Cape
cart
two extra
each strapped
side.
Two
the automobile.
of 28/32
on the
by parcel-post
we took only
to
any point on
re-
box slipped within the tires, and the night things packed
huge sack which was placed in the tonneau.
Dressed in cloth
suits
and waterproofs we
in
started
ofif
How
lovely
we climbed
hill
that
Fiume.
Bumping and
in
mud
ABBAZIA TO ZENGG
by the wharves and soon
rolled
ruined castle
tive picture,
guide-posts.
proach
we were
but
Oh!
more or
looking,
one
in the distance
is
seen.
We
ap-
"UDragU4K."
We
search the
name; perhaps
in vain for
maps
it
is
"Dragu"
or any similar
yet
we soon
The
way
*'We have
is
know them
to
names
distinct
was universal
discovered,
only
two
in this
This
city.
for
diffi-
each town,
Balkan region.
both.
Even
seen,
as he spoke
we
kingdom.
Passing under the railroad which connects Fiume with
own
springtime.
"USasak2K."
As
We
this is
a suburb of Fiume,
mount a
into Draga.
"u"
evidently
means "to."
fearful grade
39
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
on the sunny
The road
with
its
resembles nothing so
There
and downs.
steep ups
is fairly
much
worn.
cherries
slopes.
as a scenic railway
is
no attempt
at grad-
and peaches.
little
chap
we have
and rushes
passed.
surrounded by high
Bay
of Buccari.
the top,
slips noiselessly
toward
its
church
At the
from the water's edge.
foot of the long descent the Hotel Jadran on the quay seems
so neat and inviting that we are tempted to alight.
Indeed,
spire, rises in soft rose tints
is
many
times to
its
attractive situation
upon
but our
maps
brows and
differs
gesticulations;
and we
discover,
insists
both are
is
Thry
unmistakable,
right, as the
two
On
by the Frangi-
\
/
li
**ii
-f;
u
X
y.
X
y.
y.
ABBAZIA TO ZENGG
is its
protected
lish
Re
Porto
pani.
an arsenal
is
name
the
of the settlement
Now, however,
here.
High above
Jesuits.
is
in
we obtain a
it
hard and
and so well
panorama of
The roads are dry and
splendid
to Kraljevica, a
common-
Continuing our journey, the canal of Maltempo, separating the rocky gray plateau of the island of Veglia from the
marked "Crkvenica."
Past Suriki
Crkvenica.
upon
sea.
It is
nearly noon
when we
stop
Here
it is
really
warm.
along the beach, the music pavilion, and the newly laid out
see
trifle
odd
to us,
provincial as we
are, perhaps,
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
From
beneath the lowered awnings, we looked upon the fishingsmacks drifting lazily on the wide Morlacca, a scattering
across to Veglia.
It
was
all
zest.
"Gasoline?
with
go
Why
you," the
certainly,
up
the Vinodol.
"
porter insisted,
I will
way."
What a charming
little
valley
we ran
one of
into, this
who
really
seem
to
One
roads!
dle strapped
hill.
Here
of
home
again, very
much looked up
to,
said.
Now
he was
evidently, as a travelled
personage.
Returning to the
many
The
Row-boats and
stone
we paused to see
embankment with
was a
delight to watch.
village of Crkvenica,
sail-boats, fishing-boats
42
and market-boats,
ABBAZIA TO ZENGG
and even an occasional steam-boat, made enough
ferry-boats
a castle of the
light as the
moving
on fishermen
seine with
in small boats
its
pause to look
bridge, past
wooden
and on
Is
floats.
Our
route
a huge
tunny fishing?
They
shore,
it
of
fingers.
it,
efifects
drawing
fly
by.
We climb
Opalescent mountains
base
lies
and
the
town of Novi
in
At their
scurrying clouds.
reflect the
an
blue or
occasional
Up
in startled
and
dry,
wonder as
if
it is
burden?
We
she staggering
meet one "happy pair,"
under an enormous load of fagots, he carrying the axe
of
Still
to the
try
Karst again.
defined as
we climb
"
a coun-
off
it,
although the
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
more ground
the
prairies
of
road-dressing procurable
its
discoverer
lakes!
there
is
too
Karst
in Croatia the
However,
much
of
fails to
be appreciated
it.
bit of genista
hangs out
its
there is not a
yellow banner from beneath a projecting crag
tree in sight,
only sage-brush and the endless ruin of the
;
jagged rocks.
sea,
to enjoy the
Dark
backward view.
side,
Crossing this
tion,
calves, nibbling at
walls
we come upon
last barrier
young
and
sides
an
signs of habita-
southern terraces,
invisible herbage,
line.
surround our
is
pro-
We
"And
cas-
tellated islands.
mountain
the pirates?"
it
through the
demands
falling mist.
"Do
ABBAZIA TO ZENGG
"Oh!
no danger here,"
**
We
"But our
hotel
"Well, Zagreb
was
the
is
is
Agram," ventured
the Enthusiast.
And my wonder
to how it was pos-
and shining
stairs.
and
led us
With conscious
up two
flights of steep
pride, throwing
open
veils
pected.
down
sent
no word
it
splendor
For although
upon
was evident that some one was ex-
we had
full
The immaculate
sheets
us.
were
turned
half-way
the rufBed
and
embroidered pillow cases glistened; a vase of bright artificial flowers ornamented the columnar stove in the corner;
at
more
ordi-
gracefully shaped
bowl on the
With
MOTORING
maiden we found
all,
It
THE BALKANS
IN
gesticulations
ample and
something
to eat
sufficient.
After
We
quay through the narrow winding streets and from the pier looked back beyond the warea likely place indeed
houses to the Nahaj Castle on the hill
wandered out
to the
for
a pirate band
but
we saw nothing
piratical
on the slum-
town.
quiet good-nature
seemed
to prevail
and every-
46
^'Kiiss
CHAPTER
IV
is
perforce
awake
Already the
tain in the public square a girl is
the brilliant light.
it
away ?
hill
she
is
filling
and
at the foun-
it
How
To my amazement
is
it
city is astir,
deftly,
she
lifts
is
ready
lilt-
demeanor
We
of
and an unwonted
we
air of
we
new impression
this
morning
to-day
is
we
it
leave
our friendly Hotel Zagreb and set out at last for Dalmatia.
There is a coast road as far as Carlopago, thence to
Gospic but being assured that the better route lies straight
;
inland
blue
we
hills overlap.
On
and
start
the
up
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
Frangipani,
demand
toll
prise us.
many
from,
new
this
Or should
The original
would not
it
sur-
convenient ambushes,
fitting.
invasion,
it
the
nand
of Austria.
Here, at
they
first,
made an
after being
ideal frontier
checked
in that
lawless marauders,
attracting
all
and Austria,
in 1618 the
occupied by
German
their
nations and
and Moslem
atrocities culminating in
to
alike."
"becoming the
After unheard-of
background
of
darkness and
Up
these heights
detail delays us
number ad-
its
still
create a
we crawl
down
in
two
fairly
48
ZENGG TO GOSPIC
bed of the torrent, so faithfully do we follow
us a whitewashed chapel
Beside
bends.
wooden
crosses at
far
above
we
us,
Up
its
and up we
until at length,
it,
The many
white pyramids
show where
the route
Below us the
tiny
of stones
capricious
lifts
its feet.
its
lies,
cleft
among
and then
And
teeth chatter!
The predicament
tance
down
the teamster
is
is
no parapet
that precipice
is
his
to the road
many hundred
and the
feet.
We
disin-
stantly stop
to
that
we may
not meet
MOTORING
Soon
after,
view below
of
Arbe
The
we
THE BALKANS
IN
us.
rises like
dimpling cloud.
and
in ether
vanish when
continues
its
"This
is
marks
cliffs
is
the vision
it
climb.
the top of the Vratnik Pass [2326 feet]," re-
we
slip
through that
we
seems floating
half expect anything so lovely must soon
I hear a sharp click beside me and the motor
So unearthly
the Leader, as
fifty-nine
minutes to climb
sea.
cleft in the
"We
fifteen kilometers.
crags
have taken
At
this rate
now
we
on a high plateau, a cultivated open country with wooded hills rising on either side.
are farther apart
Cattle scramble
up
for
are
our
we
feel
is
first halt.
The
rows of long "shakes" and in lieu of a chimney have a pointed board placed at a slight angle from a hole
in the roof.
Neatly piled stacks of white birch-wood stand
with
five or six
is
We
only in proportions.
so
"22 u
ZENGG TO GOSPIC
Otocac" and three horses abreast
stand
Again we
language
is
totally
unknown
to
stiff
The
are sooth-
is less
edge of a precipice.
the stones, a
hawk
The
we
among
Men
is
the Velebit
in picturesque
soon passed.
drawn over
is
costumes consisting
and
We
gaiters
flat
bag woven
of horsehair
to
will
monotony
in the telling of
There seems
to
be a certain
At the time there were always elements of danger; but we successfully emerged from every
one of our ten encounters. Cisasitch is passed, and here a
but there
Vratnik Pass.
51
is
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
much
always so
From
chalets.
to see.
mountaineers peer at
and seem
less
Eager
we go toward one
of the
is
mystery
They stand
us.
in a
down
to
huddled
With
the one
word "voda''
older ones
of
motion us to
An
enter.
unmistakable odor
doorway.
"We
Lady
explains;
When
amazement
at the variety
and
How
good
it
tastes!
disappears.
How
all
formality
be at our delight! They finger frankly our strange garments; my pongee mackintosh especially amuses them, and
to
the one
who
each in turn.
They
it
to
ZENGG TO GOSPIC
each
in his
sion, are
Leader
own tongue
calls us,
as
we
we
see
Otocac
Au
By
friends,
revoir.^^
forest-covered ridge,
in the distance.
It is
and from
nearly eleven
und
"Oh, do
street.
"If
"Do
it
man
at
my
side."
cry as he returns.
By
this time
unknown
man"
tiful
is
detail of the
"
mud-bespattered
The "beau-
From
And
who,
car.
store
is
we
lace
for panniers
making
the
henzin
seller
53
their
interpreter,
ask
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
intelligent questions of
made
distance
of pleased recognition.
to
some day
visit that
so small that
is
it
representative to the
New
World.
So as we leave Otocac
"That
were
is
but as they
it
lie
two thousand
As we
just
feet
above the
his wheels!
where he
ceives
is
here,
afraid
we meet a
cart,
whose owner,
seeking shelter;
It is
We
of the roads!
am
"If
now."
one of
sea, I
back
comment on
to
it
him
it
gratitude.
course.
men bow
mill
is
politely as
we mount a long
we move by;
well-graded
hill
through
its
we climb
green length.
the road
gentle
a group of
becomes
drier as
stream meandering
We have time
54
its
into
to enjoy
it,
for
our
ZENGG TO GOSPIC
poor engine cannot breathe, the radiator is so choked with
mud. Farther on we enter pine forests and hills of spruce
and cedar,
wayside and
many
granite
boulders.
We
where
the
welcome sign
^'
Gostiona,^^ (inn)
and the
willing peasant,
We
when, smiling
own
and pour
in
and a
glass.
queer foreigners, he darts toward the well and soon reappears with a kerosene can
fitted
full of
water.
This receptacle,
"Gospic?" we ask
K.," he writes on a
in
for
we
slip of paper.
most languages!
We thank him for
way over
and go on our
and masses
of rock.
'*
Maquis^
is
"25
"
maquis^'
oleaster,
MOTORING
the
same conditions
prevail.
up
THE BALKANS
IN
We
among
the stones.
fields
feet,
on summits veiled
in clouds.
we meet
men
the
Fortunately
The lamb's-wool
dumb
fright to the
flit
beasts.
wheatears
four
Flocks of
way.
Such
beautiful creatures!
fields,
and crossing
tains.
Evidently,
it
is
The
way
is
lined
with
sleeveless sheepskin
of the
spots of color
is
All
care to enjoy
it
At half-past one we
56
ZENGG TO GOSPIC
We
fifty-four
we
are satisfied
Yet
it is
with
dif-
peasants,
From
street.
are passing
and slowly
of
"Why?"
and repassing,
strolling
down
stop-
the long
by,
I begin,
wooden
rattles vigorously.
himself.
"It
is
answers.
After luncheon
we would
we hold a
council of
war as
push on
to whether
to Zara.
they are
Of course
much
better
very late."
"None
tired to
We
that I
all
hotel
country
of," he answers.
go on?"
protest our willingness.
responsibility;
The
know
is
lies
whatever he decides
is
best
we
all
will
the
do.
We
conclude to go on.
57
CHAPTER V
ENTERING DALMATIA GOSPIC TO ZARA
"t_TOW
Dalmatia from here?" queries the Enthuas we leave Gospic and speed down the fairly
far
siast,
is
an imposing range
of
snowy mountains.
"It
is
we must
For
road
is
"but
feet high."
countries the chauffeur not only has the care of the motor,
and
his vigorous
from
this strange
syllables
must be new
Over a
slight rise
to
them!
and
straight
flight,
we
come
Certainly the
away
across a plain,
to
sweep over a
snowy peak
hilltop into
of
a rolling dale.
feet)
ENTERING DALMATIA
expanse, glistening, ice-covered trees stand in serried ranks,
and we
strain
highway leading
to
by the
and
sign bearing a
first
no
right,
soft rolling
over
snow appear by
is
the roadside
and increase
Patches of
to long drifts;
progress, but
four feet in height on either side are evidence that this pass
As we
rise,
is
kept open
all
winter.
horizon
bounded by range
lost in clouds.
Up
hills,
so narrow that
anything
sible to
to
we
shiver at the
The
59
cHmb,
way
to
cleared
whole
mountains
we continue
until the
soft
snow
it is
pos-
so as not
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
snow
mud
An
It is
We
is
are
must be
close at hand.
This
As
snow
is
Dalmatia.
if
in
indeed, no
naught
trees at
all,
Down
threatening sky.
we wind and
the inclines
"What
is
that inscription
*T can
siast.
us.
see
The Leader
it is
We
flight,
twist, the
on the
and
Enthu-
not Slavic."
MaGGIO
27
85 1 IN DIFESA
DELDA PrO-
ASSASSINI.
the twenty-seventh of
fell
22
May,
185 1,
60
il
who on
ENTERING DALMATIA
What a picture it brings to us here in this desolate spot!
The hopeless struggle, the death for duty's sake!
As we continue our journey the mist rises, and an inis
panorama
describably magnificent
twelve different
highway chngs to the mountain side,
levels can we trace before it takes its arrow-like course
like
into
series of terraces,
Karin
itself
on
its
pearly breast.
of Starigrad
far off
The
line.
and
Sebenico.
At the southeast
Krka
the
River,
rise the
and
still
snowy
Svilaja
Mountains beyond
farther
away
The
of
Dalmatia
Hke a
unfolded
lies
map
before
Dalmatia
enter
the
it,
first
is
wonderful, and
descending to inspect
down
bit
it
Under overhanging
slide
this
is
its
by
it
were,
us,
Yes,
way
to
securing
bit.
precipices
in long loops.
At nearer view
MOTORING
wagons, drawn up
THE BALKANS
IN
file
loads, have
no fear that
the grade
run
far;
all
first
horses instantly
stricken
What can
bankment ?
least
We
found
attitude
this
want
to see
strangers
with us,
and the
Of
ward
is
will
smell, for
course
we
carriages.
grow accustomed,
we
We
we
poor
"You
We know we are
what
their
all
are terror-
Why
We
Do
welcome
not be angry
to assist in untangling
and permit us
by, thankful that matters are no worse.
to appreciate our harmlessness
in calm-
to glide slowly
ENTERING DALMATIA
pany, and a tiny chapel
the hamlet
of
lifts its
Mekdolac,
cross
and
by the wayside,
past
approach Obrovazzo, or
It
1829-32.
is
twenty-one
feet
five
twenty-three kilo-
is
It is possible to
way
of the
frontier
Montagna, stopping at Pago, and on through landlocked channels. This is a delightful sail of about nine and
della
a half hours.
Obrovac
is
The
air is soft
we make no pause,
From
flight,
as
we climb
The
red sun
waters of Novigrad
and turn
to
ing desert.
rainbow
On the
is
the quays
in short windings
of Karin.
and mild.
roll-
Over the
is
inlet
in course of
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
construction,
of
steps forward
to
we ascend a
gHmpses
Franciscan
friendly
of reassurance
cross.
friar
peasants
picturesque
of the
steep incline
last
monastery
can
see,
top, to
lies straight
beckons us
the
loops,
kindly
catching
lake.
At the
in
brother
as
Only the
which such a
sations
sight produces!
and
in rapturous flight
down
we
race
Through
them
fig
girls
some of
distaff in
and
stony
where flocks of
olive
meadows where
flourish
is
we
past
hasten,
fainter.
gleam
in the distance.
the
way
Porta Terrafermc
.dls,
Through
this,
in
perfect
ENTERING DALMATIA
"Turn
to the left
to the right";
65
to the sea.
CHAPTER
VI
ZARA
r^OOD
A
As
FRIDAY!
islands,
the
limpid
is
Even
the
anchor
black-and-red
and broad-brimmed
hat, eagerly
exchanges
ful are
'^en
A woman
in
arm
The
nod
sail,
in unison.
is
at
boat
is
my upper window.
This
ZARA
fragrance in the placid
I
wonder?
air.
Are these
is
by.
and the men may exchange greetings with the passerWhen the discussion becomes especially intense, the
boat
is
close,
the
way and
flying sail
drifts
bound
by with a
really
woman
Is she really
and
dull blue
gown ?
No
move
How
restful is the
his mother's
noiselessly.
Even
The
ships
and
No
fishing-
My
"Do
"Oh, no indeed!
all ,
my
Of
course not.
want
to see
it
"
And
scene.
67
MOTORING
"Where
first?" I
THE BALKANS
IN
demand, as we
stroll
toward the
"What
is
women carrying?"
And do look at her
that
be a turkey?
And
Oh,
must
is
I interrupt.
full
pier.
a famous
"Can
it
try to get a
kodak
of
"Did you
see her
"And
passes.
oh!
embroidered kerchief?"
there are
I cry, as
she
post-
office."
I try to
walk
gay and
lively scene.
and
yet to
For
this is
grasp in
our
first
Mor-
The name
and along the canals of northern Dalmatia.
Morlacchi is derived from the Slav words "Mauro Vlach,"
"
meaning
black Wallachs."
The market-place
is
village
that village,
l.\
IHK MARKKI-PLACF-:
I\ ZAKA
TiiF,
ZARA
whether Greek or Roman, has
men
women
slit
its
own
The
peculiar dress.
and
at the
worked with
Most
of the
men and
But
alas!
is
filled
with clumsily
made low
many
purchasers
in the market-place.
lightly against a
column, stands a
beautiful
in
to
Not
olive
far
oil.
It
full of
it
as a sample.
She
price,
banter.
it,
and saunters on
in
search
of
other
bargains.
We
69
MOTORING
women
THE BALKANS
IN
are distinguished
"Maria Theresa."
called a
made
is
This
gilded.
figures,
their
stiff
kerchiefs.
am
"I
by
gestures to explain
my
desires.
me
muttered.
was endeavoring
For such an unheard-of request, however, the serof a linguistic policeman were necessary.
Just outside
Slavic.
vices
the Porta
official,
who
explained our meaning in loud tones to the bewildered peasants and in an equally loud voice translated into Italian
their
smiHng
affirmatives.
If
"The
cathedral,"
turned a corner to
charming.
women.
The
Duomo
at Pisa," I granted,
it is
"The two
"and
rose
windows
light
and shade."
ZARA
continued the Leader, "but as a whole
considered the
Dalmatia."
finest fagade in
"How
it is
beautiful
the
the
Enthusiast.
"Yes,
though
it
it
its
in
The Dalmatians
a deeply religious
are
No
people.
any kind. The flags on the club-house, the postoflice, and all the government buildings, as well as on the
passing steamers, were at half mast. For was it not Good
bells of
Friday ?
who mounted
body
of the saint
tion
lies
who
This
is
Queen Elizabeth
of
Area pre-
Hungary
in
from contemporary
history depicted
upon
its
Formerly it "was
These were melted
carved panels.
down
The
silver.
by Venice in 1647."
At San Francesco,
(F-
H. Jackson.)
after
stalls
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
of the
This was
young Francis-
can.
was
Vienna
sent to
for restoration,
or six years."
five
"It
is
But
round.
it
is
we stood
on her knees.
Martyr,
baned
St.
saint,
other saints
"
Have
all
Madonna
on a glowing
gilt
background.
n't
a beautiful picture."
it
in thoughtful con-
Ambrogio, St. Francis, St. Jerome and a turwhile above and below were medallion heads of
"No, it
and more astonished
saw
On
new
at
our enthusiasm.
And
he looked at
"Yes,
it
it is
indeed
curiously, as
if
he
its
arcaded gallery.
72
ZARA
threes, the older ones leading tinier tots
lifting the
"San Grisogono
in
and
out.
is
"Why
is it
in 649.
church?"
"Can't we go in a minute?"
was dark and still. At the farther end the
The
altar
interior
texts illuminated
by
beneath the
altar, pots of
oil
creamy
on which
floated
on vellum, simple
On
the
pavement
How
What
a con-
reahstic detail,
faithful
is
Roman
is
an
surrounded
still
on
all sides
Above
its six-
To
the
that
sunny morning
harbor the
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
supremacy.
With what
security ships
lie
from
now upon
far
the
and near
islands, are
moored
at the quay.
Their
awnings and on the shaded decks lounge variBack and forth through the Porta Marina,
colored groups.
utilized for
we look down
street is
being opened through the old walls which will doubtless add
The foundations of
to the material prosperity of the city.
a magnificent
Roman
it is
them
to preserve
to be
bastion,
is
ing guard
As we
a
house,
and
feel that I
sturdy,
perfect,
fills it
am looking on
except
is
free to the
short-skirted
purified,
damsel comes
at a bit of stage
well.
life.
The
74
cannot but
setting
We
is
stand
ZARA
motionless as she
lifts
moves
down
off steadily
the
brimming
the long
vessel to her
shadowy
head and
street.
on tempting trays
restaurant.
glistening
they,
and
names
others whose
many
in the big
never learned.
In
Delicious were
air.
it
was
stufifed
and
seemed
The
with cotton.
The
doors
too, in the
rooms were
going up and
down
stairs is
However, what compensated us for these lesser inconveniences was the possession of a tiny balcony facing the sea and
The
enough away
to catch
of the
morning sun.
effects
But Saturday
tied to the
buoy
it
all
rained.
the
To
of
companions
MOTORING
in
this
propitious
THE BALKANS
IN
weather.
trabaccoli
Slowly they
filled
glided
and one
sail
of
gently
browner
S.
Euphemia.
S.
Through
the
heights of Ugljan.
"We
Museum
yet,"
.suggested
the
Leader.
It
visit.
Agreeably displayed
round ninth century church of San Donato,
in
a treasure to the archaeologist,
were Roman frag-
in the
itself
and mediaeval
tectural decoration.
The woman
No
us.
at
and
bits of archi-
in charge permitted us to
She an-
much
"He
will
wonder
at the
those
who have
have lived on, side by side, without losIn the shops the people
difference." (Jackson.)
ing their
speak Italian;
//
ZARA
Piccolo della Sera arrives daily
mate
is
This
is
in the schools
German was
introduced, but
that
example of
now
Servian-Croatian
that
is,
Instead of
and
is
In
1726,
Zara,
from the
fleeing
atrocities of
who
Mehmed
Begovich, pasha of
creased
and
now
they
souls.
after
until
We
at
number about
home.
marry,
vineyards
It
was a
Many
thousand
three
port-holes
star
its
on the
red.
concession
MOTORING
to the
passenger
THE BALKANS
IN
The crowd
service.
welcomed
that
it
it
gift
is
of Zara.
citizen
The
able
promenade and on
filled
with a throng of
Rome
have been in
Duomo
is
the fashion-
far as
civilized
Alas!
Not a
Gone were
's
city walls
above the
little
harbor.
"Let
go
So we wandered back to the
would be!"
sister
islands!
Back
all
from
to their
own
villages
had
78
CHAPTER VII
SCARDONA FALLS OF KRKA SEBENICO
'HP HE morning
that
we
we
turn
As
is
cloudy,
away from
the Adriatic
road.
and
hawthorn hedges
flower and beside them bloom large pink anemones
fields
are in
of
grain.
Farther
on,
the
and asphodel.
outpost of Venice.
who were
ostensibly
ne'er
to
who
hill,
went up again."
MOTORING
own
The
country again.
THE BALKANS
IN
drops
it.
''Oh, wait!
half a mile
Ve
away
lost
my
whip," she
before
we
stop.
cries,
As we
but we arc
start
back, a
So
far,
we had
more
j&elds of grain,
many
vines
fig-trees
in sheltered nooks.
rains.
One
a rich
known
of these,
soil in
as the
Lake
of Nadin,
now appeared
itself
in
and the
as
is
many more
SCARDONA SEBENICO
turned to the southeast, sharply dividing the rich valley on
from the rocky waste on the other side. The way was
stony but we met no vehicle and hence could stay in the
Clusters of low houses guarded
smooth wheel tracks.
the
left
It
it
was probably
and
us in
charm
it.
of age
to
interest
who
gathered in fright-
just as service
was over
in the little
church.
"Oh, do go
we
loitered
slowly,"
on the
"In
They
Near
we
spied a stately
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
Instinctively
right.
inadequate he
'*It
is
in the interior of
must be the
Dalmatia.
see
must be near.
important
"The
cities of
how
was one
of the
fortification
which
is
It
seemed
and
is,
to consist of a
(Jackson, 1885.)
woman stood
in unconscious
magpie disturbed
and
flower-
The
fields, fruit-trees,
tiny
( !)
is
apparently blocked by a
we slow down
is
not only
in
it.
filled to
momentary
This ancient
overflowing
"knobby
"
articles,
its
top a
SCARDONA SEBENICO
a vociferous small dog. The horses are too weary to be
frightened and pass us without lifting an ear.
We
The women
we
men
courtesy from
Just beyond a
village of Zavic.
the distance.
but
we
is
left
our
now
there
is
Was
who
His
in 1247
home
famous
successors
under various
of the
titles,
were
of
virtually
not only
Ban
Count
Zara alone
of the maritime
still
it
also
was
off that
yoke, and to
Mladin
is
it.
a fascinat-
form by
itself
village
hills
of
Bribir,
we
and vales we
MOTORING
had
THE BALKANS
The road improved. Near Krcma these
traversed.
IN
we dared
At the
commotion very
For
quietly.
all
more we
We
We
but
here
It
we could
seemed
to us ex-
But
dark doorway.
gathered about
it
crowd, mostly
us.
Polite
men
Suppose
We
began
be more and more concerned as we waited for our chieftain.
But when he did return, with smiling reassurance he explained that he had been ordering our luncheon in a mixture
of
German and
was
n't at all
bad and
"Where can
much
as
by spoken word,
"Why,
here."
And
willing
84
in
A TYPICAL COSILMK
(scardona)
^t..^
\':^
.-i>
SCARDONA SEBENICO
the wall, hastily
moving out an
cumbrous
The
car.
ox-cart to
make room
for
our
of the populace he
backed the
temporary home.
We, meanwhile, had stumbled up the dim but spotless
stairway and found a neat room for our wraps and a quiet
its
The
the
Dolce Grj
But
and
I finally
no crowd followed us as we
was
important
difficult
city,
to believe that
honors of capital.
To
down upon
her,
and
after
9.
The Avars
days of
first
swept
for centuries.
MOTORING
greatness.
IN
THE BALKANS
Pillaged by our
by Napoleon
in 1809.
We
the automobile
which lay
cautiously
at the
we ran up on
quay.
it,
and
flat
It
to
at the
barge with
its
protecting
shepherd draped in
The
would carry
In four minutes from the
it
my surprise, at
on which we
ferry here
men
least,
it
did
brown
his
of varying aspects
sensation
pleas-
rope, or
was
at
to divert
dotted
cliffs it
ested in
was
my kodak
invisible.
so inter-
SCARDONA SEBENICO
Why
is
that, the
it
it
was only
fifteen
we had
started
the steep
the Krka.
Ascending
bend
in the road,
at a
the future
barren tableland.
yawns
apart,
we
are
roaring
first
famous
to the north.
far
down
on a
level
How
Suddenly the
in the
flat
tableland
in four long
winding loops
to various viewpoints
beautiful
Lombardy
like
of the ELrka, so
and walk on
waters.
falls
stream!
until
and
to see the
the
left at
is
It is
it
is!
falls.
We
below the
The banks
are
"In
fifty
we
are
told.
It is
the
Krka descends
cades;
Knin
trees
From
and
87
its
source
and grasses
last
and high
cas-
MOTORING
by Mr. Jackson
described
THE BALKANS
IN
book on
well-known
his
in
Dalmatia:
"The
falls
various interrupted
damp
cascades
across the
all
valley.
The
and the
vegetation,
The
silver of
to join the
main
in several
in
independent
much
the
less
falls,
at
is
The upper
perhaps the
finest of all,
fall,
thundering
of spray, in
down
we
circling in lovely
left
to the tableland.
Passing a modern
fortification,
we
fall is
It is
total height of
The
feet across.
get a
is
excellent.
charming view
of the
we
right beside the Public Garden, cross the Marina, and stop
88
SCARDONA SEBENICO
No
was
guest?
The
sleepy porter
doorway
how
was
to reconnoitre.
finally
round as
wind slammed
it.
came
herself.
off in
'^Prego,^^
her hand as
and was soon back, bearing wire and a cutter with which she
deftly fastened it on again.
The
chambermaid,
The market-place was before the door and fresh peas looked
very tempting. The rest we left to their discretion.
was only a little past four, none of us were tired, so
we went out to get an impression of the town. How absoIt
lutely different
is
this port of
two
cities.
The
flat
its
was anchored,
down
the
week
before.
MOTORING
An
raising her.
THE BALKANS
IN
The
by an
the
interested
crowd
itself,
of country folk.
were surrounded
The costumes
of
below the coarse brown serge petticoat and the orange kerchief, topping the loose brown sleeveless sack, gave a touch
of color,
which added
and bodice.
The
men were
smaller than
maseo, who
is
Tom-
murmured
the Enthusiast.
historian, poet,
tician,
and
novelist,
orator.
He
''A
critic,
left
philologist, philosopher,
honored him in
Up
gladly
flights of steps
glimpse of
him and
90
I.\
IHIO
MARKEl-PLACE, SKBEXICO
SCARDONA SEBENICO
before
we reached
dral stands.
inter-
scholars, courtiers,
Italian.
side
of reminiscent joy,
thrill
it
home
"home"
being
wherever our bags happened to be unpacked. By the dim
light of a single electric bulb I looked about my large apart-
ment.
Evidently
red velvet
again,
it
was the restaurant, and the day being a holiday the merrymakers were driven by the rain from the terrace, where
usually they sang their songs of joy, to take refuge in that
warm and
in tune,
came
mugs and
comfortable spot.
to
my
drowsy
an undertone
gradually diminished
as
of
lively
"wee sma'
the
is
conversation.
was
left,
hours"
and as
heavy
This
drew
revel-
quiet reigned.
The
next morning
it
was
91
still
raining and
we thought
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
The market
now and
ping awnings.
women, standing
if
clothing
we go on
"Shall
to-day, in spite of
and I quoted
''Why not wait until the afternoon?"
my favorite maxim: ''Rain before seven, clear before
eleven."
justified, for
new
experiences.
Now
San Giovanni.
gate
us,
We
little
demons
in rags
its
locked
surrounded
"The key?"
Two
dirty youngsters
after
the
with
outstretched
custode, returning
forthcoming
first,
and returned
hands.
which
to their
down
darted
up
the
'"''Eccol
"
hill
steep incline
fact they
gambling
accepted philosophically
for pennies.
the
It
was some
woman came
labor-
band
92
SCARDONA-SEBENICO
We
"Patience!
said the
first!"
Leader.
They could
''Very well."
The
esting.
as
we
old
wait, their
game was
up
fortifications.
It
inter-
was a
its
surrounding
our
first lilacs
"Was
Enthusiast.
it
"No," answered
"Sebenico
not of
is
a Croatian town.
Roman
or Sebenico
Roman
origin, but
According
after 1127,
Zara?"
is first
to traditions,
spoken of as
some brigands
and surrounded
it
Sihiie,
in Italian.
when
the
with a paHsade, or
idly ventured
It
did not
become important
until
it
was made a
arts
in Dalmatia.'
"Oh!
it
Gradually
from various
bishopric.
suftered
in this city
more than
in
any other
"
MOTORING
walls of the
portals,
Duomo,
THE BALKANS
IN
lingered before
its
splendid Gothic
and
and
lent
tint the
Within,
marble choir
seats,
disappointment
We
rolled
roads.
and
for
94
more ?
CHAPTER
VIII
npHERE
is
no other way?
Oh,
yes, there is
a road; but
to Spalato.
ions
Is
differed
it
as
it is
and thence
possible to
to
that,
that
it
After thinking
it
neither side
over
we con-
"Oh, do
see that
"It
is
a new flower!
Can't we get
some?"
"Probably we
as
shall see
we speed onward;
it
for fields
however, we do
day, although we
not
see
Curiously enough,
we
the whole
Later, on
find quantities
MOTORING
of
them
Some
THE BALKANS
IN
in
across the
of these
ocean, in
But
to return to
It
hills
with
Sometimes low-growing
highway.
We
now
alone
accompany
How beautiful
olives, cherries,
and
habitation can
we
them here
in
vines.
see,
yet
it is!
No human
fields.
Leaving
this
at sight of
shivers.
What
is
radiator!
indeed!
that?
consternation
strikes
In an instant both
men
to
our hearts.
are out.
It is
the
Can
it
be cracked
far;
for
96
if
this
be true
it
means
at
SEBENICO TO SPALATO
least
And where ?
a week of waiting.
automobile
or sleep in the
by the wayside
or possibly
a bear creeping
laughs
at
fields!
there
forebodings;
to
camp
I
Already
can
heights
our
we have
Will
down
those rocky
no bears
are
Dal-
in
coyotes
we have
to one;
needed
parts.
Meanwhile, an examination
the rubber connection which
"
and
announces,
adhesive tape.
we can
get a
can
That
new
is
is
being made.
"
It is
only
fix it all
right.
'11
wind
with
it
is
not a
We
cannot
still
The
chauffeur
no sign of help;
is
either driving
or
rapidly completing
stir
"Of
MOTORING
who
THE BALKANS
IN
but this
may
visit
Leader.
Is
tance at
answer
in
it
last
machine
in curious contemplation,
He ambles up to the
emptiness, looking in
its
This language
head.
is
universal.
him with
We
but
is
and, as
arms
to their
finally
swiftly
we
pre-
utmost
persuaded to
down
the road,
fields, until
The birds
fer is getting
on
successfully,
is
and we wait
little
first,
knows enough
also, unless he
If
it
reaches us
From
afar
we watch
him
ing
up
him and
his
please him.
Of
course, a
radiator; but
small pailful of
fill
the
of mind-reading,
SEBENICO TO SPALATO
the Leader
manages
how
Noticing
sit
down
at his feet in
it
fright or
We
because this
We
it,
wistfully
of water in
is
do
his
would from
scream as he
rolls
and we
is
five
trifle
pale,
feel the
at the foot of
an embryonic
in
an oasis
village.
It is
And
bewildering!
own
to their
doors.
woman,
evidently a bride, does not stop to drop the big cloak she
is mending, but follows down the hill to see the wonderful
sight.
The
assist
me
when my kodak
in posing her.
is
Silver coins
almost cover the front of her sleeveless jacket and her white
kerchief
is
spotlessly clean.
She
99
is
almost as attractive as
MOTORING
IN
THE BALKANS
arm.
on
these broad-shouldered
"Do
elastic, at the
back, to keep
we bowl over
sterile
side, the
hills
road con-
improving.
and stop
cliff
in
the
Dinarian Alps.
a fairy-like port,
it
is
Two
miniature
Seghetto, with
The
approach
steepled church
ships
its
slip
and
down
in
The
descent
are so splendid
is
is
of that kind
soon forgotten.
Crossing ''the silver streak of sea that saved the city
From
the
masonry
which, according to local superstition, miraculously flourishes to hide the sculptured lion of St.
Mark,
that hated
^^-^t'-v^..-
THE
IIIK
l.lll'Ll':
tvID
SEBENICO TO SPALATO
from neighboring walls and dark,
us
greet
still
mysterious
as
we wander through
It
city,
is
the
where
all
of the fourteenth
The
It is
century.
Communale,
grace-
and marvellous
in
finish of execution,
Romanesque or Gothic
1240,
its
and costumes
entrance
art."
still
or more
of detail
many
Erected in
pictures of the
life
impressive
beast
mediaeval fancy."
As we
What
and beautiful
fifteenth cen-
it.
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
what playful fancy went towards the forthe stalls in the mediaeval cathedrals! Not only
cate execution,
mation of
One
bulky volume.
is
these
zation,
to
to belong to
Italian
find
edifices
an Oriental
civili-
created
often
by
an amazing
its
Duomo
bright
new
skill.
roof of
tile
presents
original position
present lion of
wall behind
lazzo
St.
it.
Mark
Beyond
Communale,
its cortile
on a dais
down from
is
the
the Pa-
and containing
in
we
stroll to
Through
the dark,
somewhat
over to
Bua,
where we have a view of the striking Castel Camerlengo.
This island of Bua, Bavo, or Boa, in Slavic Ciovo, is
almost ten kilometers long, and protects the entrance to the
ancient port of Salona.
place of exile.
It
became a
is in
now
this shrine
SEBENICO TO SPALATO
There
is
to leave,
plants in
vegetation.
The
road
excellent, built
This
Sette Castelli.
and sixteenth
These
centuries.
Castel
Castelnuovo,
Nehaj,
Luksic, Castel
Cambio
Turks
castles
called:
Vecchio,
in the fifteenth
and the
villages
Castel Papali or
Castel
or
Vitturi
Other
fields,
co,
its
Mahomet
II.
is
deed of
to
Giorgio.
The most
gift of this
ancient Croat
place
for
11."
(F.
document
and church
change
Castel Abbadessa
103
is
to the archbishop of
King Trpimir
H. Jackson.)
existing
S.
in
S,^,^
in ex-
MOTORING
IN
As we near
Slavic,
the city
we
of
THE BALKANS
Bua"
is
notice the
an ancient proverb
to our mystification.
A Roman tomb
we
Dalmatia.
We
all
these indicate
Roman
capital of
beyond us the
Slowly we
we surmount a low
ridge
and
see just
city of Spalato.
feel
104
city, until
we
CHAPTER
IX
SPALATO
CPALATO,
Split,
on
Our
hotel,
adapted
from a former
city hall,
but
was
faced
the automobile
was kept
in full
view of the
city populace,
both day and night. To be sure, when undergoing renovation it was surrounded by an admiring crowd, but unless
the chauffeur
was there
On
is
the Court
House
a modern
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
Hon heads on
and
On
alike.
the
coats,
Beneath
quiet outlines.
its
men
sit
women
Upon
under the
corded
cloaks about
kerchiefs
bodices.
They draw
their
shapeless
red
roll
on
their heads,
ways
of the
within
its
darkness,
every
sometimes reappearing
come rushing
They
now and
excited individuals
all.
a survival of Oriental
Court House
selected one
it
The men
Is
to
Occasionally a pair of
much
beckon a
Not
at
Evidently
It is
somewhat
SPALATO
from that capacious
The woman
belt
him
carried.
is
is
sheathed
some Persian
in
mountains, or
this
is
coloring.
woman
Can
it
occupa-
What
is
that
be a calf ?
It is
for
legs
hang
to the ground.
nattily dressed
door of
jauntily
awry on
his
locks,
curly
his
embroidered
vest
and immaculate,
He
day attire.
in an endeavor
at his watch.
or
is it
betoken a
holi-
show
to
Is
it
his indifference
men don
young Adonis
an hour
later
my
he looks
down
every corner.
tall
He
The
is late,
air is cool,
their overcoats.
is still
waiting.
Half
Still
it
strikes ten,
people where
is
Suddenly there
is
streets
and
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
voices,
is
tongue
It is
incomprehensible.
to indicate anger,
only a
man
ears.
about nothing!"
What
"Much ado
upon
sea,
not.
on
and monastery
new white
this side of
of St. Francis.
their
Within that
pects
It
to be!
Still
The
No.
seem
the
if
it
at
seems a
at
trifle
4:45
A.
M.,
superfluous.
at 7:25
without
It is
P.M.,
and
apparent reason,
all
harmony
at the
the sky
heavy with
at the end
is
oily;
harbor
is
far to
quay, this
their
first
in the distance
a ship under
our
left,
it
The
real
along the
SPALATO
and each awning-covered deck displaying a tempting
cargo of oranges and lemons. So fascinating are these bits
to dry,
of sea-life that
Facing
it is
this
difficult to tear
harbor
Diocletian's
lies
still
ourselves away.
splendid palace,
charm.
stately
to
indeed,
and
wear,
did
this
great
and a
imagine what
"
so much of
it
and was so
on
solidly
it
Obscurity,"
half acres,
after
citi-
*'
is
Roman Caesars:
it
possible in
in
Within
its
with
streets,
but
its
lies still
inside
We
through
its
we come
story on
to a tiny piazza
MOTORING
"But
Madame
IN
THE BALKANS
Content.
campanile."
It
may
undertaking;
it
here,
the rotunda.
mausoleum
call
it
the
Virgin and
of
Temple
of
Doimo.
St.
Pantheon
tral
in the
only thirty-five
columns.
to
Circular in form,
ly recalls the
opening
although antiquarians
now consecrated the
Jupiter,
Diocletian,
at
dome;
feet,
its
Rome, although
it
is
much
in the gallery a
Was
responses?
The
in
this peculi-
pulpit
is
rich
vellous interlacing
and undercutting.
'Tn point
of technical
know
of nothing in
(T.
G. Jackson.)
them."
to
surpass
Romanesque
is
accredited
with
this work by
Guvina
The
it
At one point
in vari-colored
interior instant-
late authorities.
stalls is
curiously
no
SPALATO
show
hand.
They
made
Stefano
for S.
by the same
while a heavy
later;
which adds nothing to their effectiveness, was probably added when the present choir was built and the stalls
brought over, from near the pulpit, where they originally
cornice,
stood.
Later on,
for
the
at
twenty years,
Baptistery,
lain
a Slav,
if
one
may
became a painter
at the Baptistery,
as well as a
we
who
of his adopted
art
famous carver
in
settled in
country,
wood.
Here,
such extraordinary
The
effect.
doorway formed
is
through a monumental
to
think that
this
delicate
storm.
tangular temple
is
sacrificed
its
The
upon
coffered ceiling
siege, sunshine,
and
exactly as
altar,
is
amazing
hundred years of
It is
it
dedicating
it
to
first
Esculapius.
MOTORING
The
IN
THE BALKANS
front,
They
gus.
The
tiquities
(F.
Through a dim
intervals into small
opening
labyrinth of archways,
we
irregular piazzas,
saunter,
at
amus-
ing ourselves by gazing into the tiny shops where cheese and
calicoes
snowy
kerchiefs
and
full
sleeves
making
a
picture
a stately jagade;
all
SPALATO
is
in
Town
In this piazza,
Hall.
mation,
A new
place.
tower, this,
about 1450, in a
effects.
it
in the
market-
it
Now
a market-place is always a
of local color and kaleidoscopic
of Diocletian's Palace.
fascinating spot,
rises
full
The oranges
too
stop to
little
are
buy
of
rice.
my change.
to
a neighboring shop.
is
no
"From
am somewhat
For usually
Chicago,"
"E h!"
respond.
"Do
"3
know
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
instantly that she has never been there, but she has heard
of
it.
"Does
this
"How
are
stay four
to
days."
was now
It
my
"Like
this,
"Like
this,
off
They
So attractive
pods?"
to eat."
small
this
for
is
and she
try one,"
who has by
nothing.
"They
child,
"What
turn.
the
but a
bit
maid
little
is
very hungry.
"Marinovic
tion;
K ,"
When I
woman
"That
friendliness.
old, is
it
"Yes,"
"
Oh,
greeted
me
making no
with stately
necklace,"
she
"It
is
fine
for a chat,
your
beautiful,
not?"
I
knew
it
"And yours?"
was
I
ventured,
for
Mine,
too, is old.
It
was
114
my
mother's mother's
and
SPALATO
and her
that,"
it
lovingly.
"We
''I
are going
would
like so
much
I regretfully
to stay longer."
exclaimed
as
come again," she calmly prophesied,
Dalmatia were close to far America, and Spalato a station
"But you
if
away to-morrow,"
will
115
CHAPTER X
SALONA CLISSA
''\X7'HY wouldn't
SOURCE
this
OF THE JADRO
And
Salona we go in
ruins
is
ample
so
leisure to
many
to
we have
The
distance
is
even
growing,
my
The
sea
is
radi-
ant beneath the stern gray mountains and reflects the towers
and
far
At an
There
is
more
to see at
Salona
may
be able to reconstruct
it
ii6
We
SALONA-CLISSA
knew
that Salona
mouth
look
was
it
Roman
world";
but
to
at the splendid
much more
cities of the
Dalmatia and
up
capital of
how
different
the
Romans become!
real the
down
How
impression.
On
this
at
same land-
scape they were wont to gaze, over these blue waters came
And
in the sun-
curves overhead?
The
of eighty-eight towers;
gist
would care
are
interested
in
the
sixth
still
in the centre is
We
form and
Roman
Several fragments of
earth as a protection from the sun, are swept bare for our
benefit
by a crowd
of tourists,
of gamins,
The arrangements
Pompeii and plainly
ever,
is
in 639,
to be traced.
Most curious
when
in
the
it
was
of
was destroyed
of Diocletian.
117
on the
how-
empty Palace
built
all,
site of
have
dis-
an early Chris-
MOTORING
tian cemetery.
height of the
THE BALKANS
IN
lids,
them
foundations
of the church.
museum
to the
it is
lie
although there
at Spalato,
what
known
is
We
walls.
is
a long row of
as the Necropolis
this historic
stones.
One
when
sparkling morning,
the air
raspberries
mild,
Mt. Kozjak
and sweet-brier,
Below
extensive
us, as
until
we mount,
the
rocky
strange,
soil
finally
an occasional
The
in long,
Roman
we motor
of
is
how
the
magnificent a spectacle
bare peak of
its
perched the ruined fortress of Clissa which formerly commanded the pass between Sinj and Spalato. The road has
is
skill to
we walk up
ii8
MARKETING
IX SPALATO
V:
was^-
'
"51.
H
'%
;\W^i4
'M
& ^^n^SQ^EBHHH
FORTRESS OF
CI.ISSA,
XFAR
SI'AI.AIO
SALONA CLISSA
Below us
splendid prospect.
with
curious
its
campanile of
its
roofs
is
of overlapping stones;
Chssa
the white
in
rich
It
historical
a wonderfully
is
for
associations;
Beyond
in
lies
hundred
from
farther
away
that
wooded hollow
touch Spalato.
way?"
at
water of
"In
by
still
Spalato,
years.
the shin-
it
mill;
And we
we
have gone far along it, however, a ford deepened by the recent rains compels us to abandon the car and cross the stream
is
keep
and come
spot
on the
river
banks
Such a beautiful
trees.
Wis-
119
MOTORING
and white,
is
We
along the
THE BALKANS
exquisite.
hesitates,
this, evidently, is
onward.
IN
resist the
way and
bend
more
current
lake.
is
swift,
At
last
river
becoming smaller,
broadens to a tiny
and
at its foot
down
birds sweep
in circling flight
crags.
The
and calendula.
Two
tiny mills
by the continual
mist.
born,
full-flooded,
again at times
to
It is
our
which are
disappear
The
is
delightful.
On
cadence.
The
bread as he
On
child
listens,
and
falling
to
in
melodious
munch
his dry
to hear.
all
The
SALONA CLISSA
for
Leader
scoffs at
I'm sure
only pair!
us.
The
"My
the
flood.
this so
The
further south
influence
Outside of the
visible.
is
we
cities the
language
is
rooms
German and
many ways
of spelling the
principles of orthography
become sadly
we decide
to
No
two maps
adopt the phonetic method
lax.
and be content.
One
no iron rules
in
to
to
"What
see?"
is
delightful.
still
We
sit
feeling of
freedom
is
MOTORING
if
we were
at
IN
THE BALKANS
to us, re-
wonder where
say,
casually,
"The
monastery,
direction."
"Why
suggestions.
This
shallow steps.
mosphere
we
is
we turn
of
is
us,
us
lies
city.
their
is
air.
of maritime pine
Gradually
and
juni-
laid out
newly
and we
at-
children are at
their place
and the
;
homes, and
into
itself
Hordes
and
is
are just
per, with
a lofty
the lovely
bay
Below
it
of
CHAPTER XI
SPALATO TO METKOVIC
'^
"'HIS last
bell
light.
quay.
by the monastery
A
lean from my window.
o'clock, I
five
moon hangs
crescent
coming
at
in Spalato, roused
morning
pushes
off,
under the
fishing-smack
changed to a sheet of
toward the island of Solta.
comes dashing
sail,
is
The
sea
is
silver,
as the
trim white
St.
The
men
the
so
they beg
many days
of
We,
too, are
The Leader
to
rapid enough,
looks
making
possible
its
We
love the
motor
or caravaner.
two.
many
its
Not
We
we
climb into
123
so,
just the
MOTORING
tightly,
its
ing
speed until
of perfectly
tells
THE BALKANS
places;
right
IN
it
down
settles
off,
gradually increas-
to the steady
we
machinery,
adjusted
day
of our journey
we
exclaim, "Isn't
No
did ozone.
there
is
it
one ever
much
too
up
to the very
blissful!
Is
which
look at each
hum
in the splen-
tant landscape.
'^Kako
"
se
zove ova
5e/(?
.?
(What
is
name
the
of that
"I
am
sounds the
trying
it
best.
wish
which
"Do
coming
to town.
What
beautiful
costumes!"
all
for
saddle-bags,
manner
five
of
kilo-
and on our
rocky heights.
124
y.
2'.
^
tl
SPALATO TO METKOVIC
The
is
taken up with
women
for
are leaping
from
their
itself.
Over a small
road, well
ridge, then
down a
and
olives,
figs,
straight,
posts
and
lic
hundred
of
Mosor
years,
Poljica
in
smooth coast
alternating with
six
It is
from 1235
until
for
seized
to 1807,
in
the
southern
these
and
for nearly
octopus-like
of
France.
bending around
its
sharp
Many cherry
points and curving through tiny hamlets.
and almond trees spring from the rocky soil, for here the
cherry,
known
the
which
is
made
cliff,
near by a solitary
Around another
new
We
leaves.
vegetation
is
point,
more advanced.
125
At
last
before us
lies
the
MOTORING
lovely
of Almissa, with
bay
THE BALKANS
its
little
charming
town, a mere
From
IN
castle
of
band.
at their back,
The
to find the
road
Flocks of swallows
green poplars.
and
closer
the
crags
approach,
circle
above
us.
Closer
and the
river
fill
it
com-
pletely;
valley,
man
mills).
rise in
Here
is
route
now
as the
Rad-
bewitching variety as we
Our
known
fly
by.
SPALATO TO METKOVIC
glimpses of the foaming green river far below.
Another
series of
again to the
rising before
asserts
Cetina,
"This
us;
Her Ladyship,
is
what /
call
a smiling valley,"
book's adjectives.
No
sooner have
cessfully,
we encounter
three
is
firmly
donkeys
in particular.
As we begin
to rise
feet into
Cetina, or "Velika
village called
out;
be
reached;
let
"The
road
is
his
horses
cannot
so,
127
increase
their
mountains he
with
much
speed,
will
do
cracking of the
MOTORING
IN
calls,
pace, while
Duare
we
is
follow
up
THE BALKANS
he leads the
at a snail's
regions.
way
many times rebuilt by the Turks, is now a ruin. Turbaned men look lazily at us as we pass. Long processions
and
as
to just
At
above Duare.
this
highway
fertile
is
compensation
But
and we
sits
wheel
tightly,
back
"We
name
did
not,''
it
Leader
satirically.
"I think
down
fly
fresh
snow,
appear
beside
128
us.
to slow
white
At Zagvozd we
SPALATO TO METKOVIC
cross a route
which leads
to Imotski
we keep
hills
a rolHng
oak.
was part
this
of the
old
Roman
highway;
is
an
Turia
Pass
but on the top of the
(2643 feet)
inscription
the
Great and
"under
the
Emperor Napoleon
saying that
Probably
of
General Blancard,
with the aid of the engineers Grljic and Zavorio, and that
and
frontier to that of
Albania
fifty
two hundred
it is
It is interesting to
note
so heavy
is
What
A new
must
it
adds to our
But
if
difficulties.
top
we
"Slope"
slide
screw loops
is
not
assuredly
the
word!
pay
little
attention to
it;
demands
my admiration, with
make the short turns, how
obeys the
all
it
the brakes!
the
down with screaming brake in eleven corkThe panorama is extensive and inspiring, but
From
the automobile
what surety we
strong clutch of
it
afire as
it
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
But no!
end
safety to the
descent.
It
more on comparatively
ourselves once
sure
of the
we run up
is
if
a comfort to find
level
To
ground.
down on
side over
at
is
along in
It sails
not the
be
the other
first
attempt
many,
"What
"Here
siast.
beeches.
know
in a flowery field
is
it
am
is
it
three
hungry."
We
when a group
of charmingly
gowned
are safe-
girls
gathers
"I
tween
"
really
mumble
be-
bites.
Oh, they
'11
Her Ladyship,
some sudden
toward the
village, while I
am
meet so
so eminently kodakable a
However when,
flock,
sure I think
breadth
length,
into the
whole
it
it;
and through-
has none,
of
Dal-
characteristic, so brilliant,
company!
we climb
SPALATO TO METKOVIC
and
(What
discourse,
name
the
is
of this village?)"
all his
I'll
'^Kako
Slavic sentence:
which shows
brilliant smile,
them breaks
my
se
With
delightful, instructive
In vain I
all.
with expressive
and eloquently,
Gently
am
sure
it is
eloquently,
me
I lead
called?)"
^'Rotuji dolac,^' he answers,
and we search
for
it
on the
away,
''Da
in fact.
thinking that a
answer
to
to
be some member
who
has been, or
is
of the family,
going
we
who
start for
to,
some
friend or neighbor
that El Dorado.
by the roadside,
evidently expects to
make
hills of
it,
we
its
finally
is filled
with peasants
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
is
it
an important market-day.
"I wish I had a pair of those beautiful opankal^^ I cry
as we creep slowly through a wide street lined with booths
displaying the sandal in
all
stages of
its
development from
the plain leather strips cut from the hide to the elaborately
finished product.
'T
really do,"
begin
narrow
my
street
stops,
accompanied
of interested onlookers,
down
shopping expedition.
In walking
we
stocks of merchandise,
inspect carefully
all
the
The crowd
purchase.
of
upon us
but
"This looks
like
and stop
opanka
head.
Ah!
his
With a rapid
polishes
them
before us,
swiftly
talking
all
cloth,
SPALATO TO METKOVIC
says.
Now
if
no one
down
in his
humble
I point to the
opanka
on his
sit
Instantly he
is
I shall
have
Vrgorac can supply; and with surprishe mounts to a shelf near the ceiling, returning
else in all
ing agility
its
own
reward.
He
them with
my modern
shoe and
They
are in
stoops to compare
The keen
enjoys hugely
willing to
my
delight,
He
pay?
but
finally
makes up
face,
shocked at the
not
kronen,
down
price,
his
mind
This seems to
and with
tentatively,
my
me
to ask
is
be
me
reasonable
I
look
Leader
and he
enough;
see
what
my
as
can
absence.
we
my arm
The country
to their
good
the motor to
folk are
taste,
nod
their heads,
^Z2>
show
their
MOTORING
IN
THE BALKANS
congratulate
proudly to
a chorus of farewells as
we move
kovic.
is
Here we meet a
govina.
by
his looks,
a Bosnian
on a short
to
interfere,
but
urgings, threats,
simply
when
his
keeps
avail
The
seat.
naught
the stubborn
rider scorns
Cluckings,
in exhaustion
way without
a murmur!
We
now
on the
sides are
full
travelling
of interest.
branches to the
left,
ridge,
Where
the
we catch a glimpse
road to Ljubuski
of
Dusina on the
down a winding
Even
134
this
SPALATO TO METKOVIC
not seem to blame us, but
rather the
foolishness of his
ignorant beast.
we
Borovoci-Novasela," and
swiftly
down
and go
where pond
Narenta
As we
lilies
larks sing.
delta,
cross a dyke, a
man
sil-
the highway.
use in
and crops of
demand, as from
For shooting,
kinds.
January
March
to
the Narenta,
and goose
abundance.
in
they are in
also,
is
up
very Paradise
the
hunter!
Salmon
eels of the
well
is
for
fat
known, as are
Only
trout,
and
The
catching of leeches
all this
we
see nothing.
in glorious flower,
call for
and mulberries
MOTORING
hillside.
we come
to the
It is
IN
THE BALKANS
a fascinating ride of
five
kilometers before
to the
left,
the Narenta
are unloading,
station,
we
136
CHAPTER
XII
METKOVIC TO RAGUSA
A LTHOUGH
way
of
but what
dance.
smoking
dained after
was
six
hot, palatable
hours of touring.
meal
In
is
not to be dis-
fact, this
small hotel
rushed
down
women
dressed in lamb's-
the street in
bag
and
flat
but when
paused
to
call
down
the street, in
what we have
a Turkish costume
bit
brilliant
yes, that
enviously at the
of prosperity.
MOTORING
Across the
way from
IN
THE BALKANS
the hotel
is
On
Roman
In
one side of
it
mouth.
It
was the
now a
For nearly
Metkovic, the
hillsides
above the
dykes.
fresh, green
growth
begins;
leaf;
is
On
the stone walls, near the village of Vidouje, large round nets
are drying.
for although
last
grade being
the
fifteen
field of
the
first
loop
downward we
The road
economy
METKOVIC TO RAGUSA
approved by the automobile.
As we descend, near the three hundred and fifteenth kilo-
file
of Herzegovinians in well-worn,
up
the
"From Neum,
under the weight of many burlap bags
suppose," calls back the Leader. "Soon we go out of
sea,
I
For
this is the
ceded to
and the
tiny port of
Turkey
in 171 8,
borders."
Beautiful black and white terns
sional flock of sheep
shepherdesses,
rough, out-of-door
is
after
ily
all, it is
Below
life.
us, suddenly,
a blue estuary
"It
is
Italian syllables!
"And
the village
bioncello?"
is
Hodilje,
We
water.
domination;
now we
are out of
mense bundles
of
firewood;
the two
them one
139
men accompanying
umbrella!
This
attitude,
MOTORING
of course,
is
the
the
THE BALKANS
IN
if
It is
he condescends to
would be the
man
and
loses the
and
first
and
sails
But
this time
before us.
"Oh,
our Leader
do wish
fails us,
rises
I
of ornithology he pre-
tends no knowledge.
We
this
tie
cans of gasoline.
w^e cry, as
we look down
loop,
in
and
slides
feet to the
down
We
meet men
Another
and the
inevi-
side
Slano
is
fig-trees,
post,
hillsides
The
road, too,
is
140
METKOVIC TO RAGUSA
smoother, and the views more varied and enchanting.
At a
sharp corner we meet a man riding on a horse, and, accompanying him, a handsome woman walking! However,
huge gold beads and a Maria Theresa, with four gold rings
on her large fingers, betoken the affection of her husband
as well as her lofty social position
We
the
panorama
is
magnificent
town
tiny
Our
of
Mezzo, nestling
hilltop,
olives
we reach a sunny
in a cove
fort.
slope, planted
to stop us,
shady
and a man
More
vale.
and
Has
a bridge broken?
Very
an accident?
cautiously
we crawl down
Is there
the
hill
who
little
is
donkey driven by a
our way?
peasants,
there been
dazed
gesticulat-
roadside,
in
the
Do
where
before
all
we
Evidently!
us after
patient,
all this
all,
somewhat
commotion.
whom
it
may
The
frightened
the
moment he
MOTORING
is
from
free
and
roll;
to
have a good
roll
we await
while
THE BALKANS
IN
his pleasure.
the
strangers,
villagers
look apologetically
first
at us,
guage,
we
More
olive groves
and the
first
carob-trees;
a chapel
do not know
forty
feet in circumference,
are
foliage
exquisite
in
branches
and
dwarfs
comparison!
all
"We
Leader
with the
their
enormous
dark
size
way
color, contrasting
maps
say."
From
views over land and water like another Cornice, with which
it is
On through more
of
Gravosa
olive orchards
in the distance.
METKOVIC TO RAGUSA
down a
It
turn
away and
follow
its
side
are
Ombla
the
is
we
but we
Here we
first
"Yes, there
is
is
we may
but
it
as well go
around."
Small villages succeed one another, or peep from the
wooded
and elder
own
Here
hillside.
in
familiar
Ombla, a
of the
Ombla,
called
continuation
is
favorite
by
of
spot
the
Trebinjcica
The
is
supposed to be a
River
"which becomes
(F.
H. Jackson.)
we do not dismount
the outer
cliff
air.
We
to see the
Ombla's
is
the
pump-
chapel
and
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
here the railroad ends, a mile and a half from the gate of
the city.
The sun
is
clearly to
tired town, as
fine
we climb
is
the last
hill
soft twilight, to
our much-longed-
for hotel.
The Imperial
pines, magnolias
is
in
and bamboo.
An
charming garden
beauty of
its
our windows
an ancient
violet
,
the midst of
iris
and forget-me-nots,
arbor of wistaria, in
blooms, stretches
its
all
fill
its
the delicate
fortress;
and
and fascinating
144
CHAPTER
XIII
RAGUSA
O AGUSA
this
mediaeval times.
has
came
its
own
southward.
wonderful survival of
this
Ragusa, each
Zara, complete in
itself,
we go
them
To
be sure,
enough
to
warn
One
smoke
snowy
sails against
blue,
How
We
brilliantly the
wandered
of far-away
the
first
morning!
little
145
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
walk
in the
formal paths.
The
wistaria flaunts
its
graceful
cascade-like
its
The
they, too,
wander
own
in this, their
fair
garden
they stop to
and
sky.
Love
of nature
ship between
all
and the
city,
is
universal
nations.
little
I feel
of fellow-
diligence,
and has
its
late
decked his
set
ubiquitous tram.
The
driver, with
my window
Occasionally
RAGUSA
one sees an open landau, with red-fezzed gentlemen gazing
about, as strangers are wont to do.
There
tier
is
The
The aprons
finely plaited.
vary,
skirts
and the
and fringed
white kerchiefs are worn either tied under the chin or looped
up on top
of the head.
filigree
beads
which
is
supposed to
lie
and
fall
An
officer
in
slowly
perhaps
on the
to
hill.
school,
for
there
Dominican
is
friar,
a fine
new
six,
school-house
man
down
mistakably English tourist in knickers, with his red guidebook; three women, each carrying a brilliant-hued bundle
on her head,
More
like
gayly dressed
large,
round
MOTORING
on her head
And
THE BALKANS
IN
so the kaleidoscopic
panorama goes on
ad libitum.
I
am
aroused from
absorption by the
my
''Suppose we
suggestive
an
get just
it
in
detail."
It is delightful to feel that
no steamer leaving
sight-seeing;
no
We may
nothing at
all, if
stay in Ragusa,
we
There
no
for
wish;
its
own
for our
limit
is
has been
even do
set to
comfortably
our
installed
it
Through
and mulberry-shaded
square by the Post Office, we reach the bridge over the old
moat!
What
ever-changing scenes.
the inner gate,
Within,
and we are
at
city
canal was
filled
the whole,
much
city
from a rural
colony of Bosnians
But as the
Roman
relates the
as
settled
we
see
it
to-day.
148
The patron
saint of
RAGUSA
the Slavic colony
was
tune
moment a
head of
one.
At
this
oppor-
St. Blaise,
resting at
new
Ragusa
While
dream warning
by the Venetians.
Ragusans adopted
Did n't you see
There is
statue over the gate as we came through?
him
and
speaks of a
I
am
to
in
the
of
Treasury
the
Duomo
Jackson
his
skull."
watch,
in
array.
"Did you
tween
tall
"And
buildings.
here
is
another!"
cries
window
across to
window;
while
in
this
crystal
The shops
love,
and we saunter
MOTORING
"Did you
inside the
the sun
"No,
THE BALKANS
IN
was so hot
was hunting
for a
shady
spot."
"There should be a
new
following the
reads
lead,
cloister
and
we turn
with an index
hand.
ciscans, with
its
spot, indeed,
charming
its
is
them
cast black
"I
am
Fran-
shadows on the
sure you have
friars'
sharp fingers
walk.
shown us
On
cloister is the
and vases, an
still filled
famous Franciscan
is
Europe.
it
stands
is
La Sponza,
the ancient
about
its
small
cortile,
where
still
the
This constant
contadini
much
to
RAGUSA
the
charm
of
are overlooked.
But
Custom House, no
entrance,
is
and the
cloister,
details,
with
it
and
creamy
shadows
scenes
leaves
in its
deep
reveals.
color,
de
La Cava,
assisted
sponsors.
beauty.
The Duomo,
ly
built
new
(?)
its
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
some few
down, the
priest
and
his
its
two
three keys
let
and variety
Most
of design.
of the objects
Hungarian
many
supporting the
jaw
silversmiths' work.
of the
human body
are sub-
left their
cases
when
This
is
gem
Byzantine
St.
of the col-
art,
with
in style,
its
and
During
in
enamel of
work was
1694.
this
RAGUSA
precious relic alone, but the most curious piece of silversmiths' art
its
case I
to
remain
is
wonder why
in
When
yet to come.
it,
that
bunch
the ewer
is
taken from
of dried grass
allowed
is
that
it
it
is
silver imitation.
it
to their
own
city
and
fidelity to
and
reeds,
of marvellous.
this
morning," suggested
and
instantly the
Leader
"Why
all
not to San
"
Giacomo?
It
ought to be attractive
the way.
So we
renewed
Roman
set out.
delight,
Through
always with
we
to walk
We
do
try
and hotter grows the sun, and more and more dusty the
road.
Between high walls, as in Italian suburbs, it leads
us until
we reach
scattered villas,
degli Olivi,
we
When we
find only
at
into
San Giacomo
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
A group of
Ragusan misses
us.
its
attendant sycamores
and
young
In their short
seem
like
La-
walking
with
teacher, set
and attention
to the
an example
for the
school-girl of
any country.
Returning from San Giacomo, we stop
monastery to
rest
a bit within
its
at the
Dominican
lovely cloister.
tiny
up
Does the Father Superior look from it over the
blue sea and refresh his soul with glimpses of a heaven on
balcony, high
for
me.
earth,
or
is
great tidings.
and
it
mar-
lilies;
154
CHAPTER XIV
RAGUSA LACROMA LAP AD
L-JAVING
Ragusa,
square where
There
Good
is
fruits
narrow
belts,
if
there
and dangling
the Herzegovinians.
to ask her
and
about
roaming
the
streets are
jewelled
market-day at
morning toward the
is
she
is
These
head-dresses.
to
be
are
I hesitate
photographed, tosses
demanding
money.
"One
kronen."
"Oh, no!"
"Well, sixty heller." By this time another splendidly
from the ground for all I
attired specimen has appeared
can
see.
"One kronen
of habit.
"No, sixty for me and sixty for her first!" What a sad
comment on her experiences with another race
When I have given the promised sums they stand like
!
statues
and
will so stand
by the hour
if
desired.
Every
They
purpose.
their
The white
filigree
and
lace veils
it
and every
who
women to
tourist,
fillets,
I quite
is
apparently
sell
him some-
thing.
down
"No,
want a female
costume."
The harbor
place to linger.
Here are
to
is
a delightful
''Do look,"
upon the
and
of
from
behind
a
veil
instead
she is
bench,
peering
a
and
with
two
men
in a
cigarette
chatting
openly smoking
truly sociable
manner.
woman
of
156
Turkey?"
HliRZEGOVIMAX
WoMKX
.SuoPPIXG iX R.UJU.SA
^M
*<.^ ^'~;^
J9.
X.
\i^
y.
RAGUSA LACROMA-LAPAD
we
ship, but
From
this
Lacroma a small
forth to
we embark on
it
by
We
finally,
approach
it is
close
only in reality
to
the
wooded
we
Slowly
the sea
is
sail
on.
of
an Austrian man-of-war
The
soft
wind-tossed forests.
in 1859.
cliffs
and the
fort,
and
This was
before
at
him
of Maximilian of Mexico,
the
old monastery of
modern
fort.
Lacroma
itself is
a delight.
We
Then from
and tangle
IS7
of roses,
from the
MOTORING
palms and
aloes,
THE BALKANS
IN
by successive
terraces
we descend
to
Under
flowers.
One
dusky ground.
exquisite blossom
a Cherokee rose.
would-be
It
is
enough
to
make
is
a real
The
trial.
air is
wind has
risen,"
to
be
denizens
and
fair
locust
"I
and
the studious
shelter of
You must
the launch,"
But
and
''Let
it
before
it
see
we hear
it
from afar
Silently
we take our
two
choppy sea
jumping
motions.
'Tt
is
not
offers licorice
far,
her
favorite
panacea
to her pale
com-
patriot.
warm air.
There
is
no
Ragusa loom
its
afar.
cry at
last.
suppose
Isn't
the towers of
still
it
if
getting worse
' '
And
our
"I think
evening
set
must be a hoodoo,"
when,
somewhat
cries
Her Ladyship
strengthened
by an
that
excellent
don't
mean
"We
is
to go to
will
in a big boat,"
How
aspect!
"From whatever
side
can be seen, while toward the sea she presents nothing but
a line of walls and towers, crowning the verge of an inaccessible precipice."
It is
many
life,
its
neighbor.
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
much a
existence.
distinct country as a
Even
expression."
as Dalmatians, but
It is
its
by the part
not
convenient geographical
of the country
As an Austrian Province,
they come.
it
from
known
v^^hich
has representation
to be better
known and
its
excellent
standpoint.
They
and
No
color, its
ever-changing aspects
when contemplating
fickle surface,
my
I,
its
majesty,
its
my enthusiasm is boundless
preoccupied that
must be
boulder-covered plains,
interior of
Dalmatia
brown-stone moun-
on the
rolling surface of
In no way
try
so
Plains
is
forcibly
and
river
RAGUSA
and
courses, lakes
LACROMA- LAPAD
And by no
forgotten.
other
and
in
such
daily tasks.
Toward
Lapad, a wcxxJed promontory jutting into the sea westward from Gravosa. Leavsunset
is
the time to
visit
we begin
us as to the
sures
we
reas-
intentions of
g'-xxi
upward, and
toil
"Gobj, Gobj," she calls, in successive intonations of command and ajmmendation. She is busy with some embroidery, instearJ of the usual knitting, but hardly glances at
she talks.
Of
course
we do
not
it
as
of her
fjenetrates fully
to our understanding.
After this
we meet no
one, no habitation
is
to be seen,
stiff leaf
be
half an
it
from
me
to divulge
One
of our
which one
bushy
number
weakens
after
least
of a kind of
trees,
through shut-in
at
its
secret well.
No
MOTORING
"I go no farther,"
THE BALKANS
IN
"You
comes
"Why,
my ear, and
do believe you
"Asleep?"
My
don't
faintly to
I
move
as I
jump up hastily it
continues,
been asleep!"
scorn the word! I have been transported.
've
"Was
it
among
to be alive!
cliff,
How
good it is
In the summer warmth much of our nervous
"Have you
it
little
least I noticed
from
tree springing
is
ask
into
the
top of the
at
least
or twenty
fifteen
from the
feet
ground."
is.
by an
iron band,
and on an
and 1896.
Whence it receives its nourishment, no one can tell. By no
method can the kodak be turned enough to get a good
encircling piece of pottery are the dates 1806
of
picture
high wall.
inside,
is
Opposite, however,
it.
an iron gate
whence a
the
tree
woman
flight to
open go
keep on
my
joy,
motion to the
tree
and
^^hello^^
"Are
me
and
and
up another
it
in
and ^'quarenV
which
my
discovery,
anni.^'
panions.
163
CHAPTER XV
RAGUSA
"
VI7HERE
start out
"To
we going
are
first,
to-day?"
I ask,
as
we
the market to
Her Ladyship.
square and
the
stop before
the
booth of a vender of
vegetables.
much
"It
is
at
home.
"But he has no
fear,
surprise.
their feast.
"No, he
he
taught,
is
tame.
is
most
He was
intelligent
and
me
if it
will rain
RAGUSA
E h! Maybe
II
"And to-morrow?"
motor
I venture, for
we have planned a
ride.
"No, nothing
seeing
to
perhaps
my
"What
his
is
name?
call
him?"
I ask,
"Piero.
And
Here,"
raising
his
Piero!"
"Piero,
voice,
some
refuse, instantly
"How
dear he
eat?"
"Not
comes
here,
is!
at the
well-known
Can't
call.
buy something
for
him
or fish";
to
and
me some
my
band
The venders
much
are
my
inter-
feet.
"To San
Lapad," he replies.
"It must be an elaborate ceremonial,"
"No,
to
I venture, for I
hill all
the
morning.
"
Oh, no!
No one
The costume
fair sex.
is
very attractive
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
gown
is
the
picture.
the
Here
attire.
is
man
and red
in a
as butterflies, but
in the variety
Turk
in full
on
women gay
his
ambling donkey
and here
fez,
black
and a
is
and the
hooks.
long with
my
no,
self so seriously,
I really
am
And
may
see
more
group
of
of
them
in
"
We
Montenegro."
women go
These
by an umbrella or broom.
this
weaker
It is
left free to
swing or to
By
assist
sister.
a law-abiding country,
in all,
ready always to
necessary,
intricacies of dialect.
Where
assist the
in
i66
edge of Europe.
ornamental
our
rather than
it
riF.RO
THE GULL
(ragusa)
4iw
y.
'VpBp
-^^'sf^
Jfc
RAGUSA
be safe to leave a motor car at the front door, day and
night, the extra tires only strapped
in
Ragusa were the castle and the churches, all others being
Monte Sergio was then covered with forest;
of wood.
name
of Ragusa, Dubrovnik,
means "the
for
Without
so
ships
they
rock.
rains, leaving
From what
invaluable
wood
government
in time to
is
planting young
make
fertile
risen triumphant!
Burned
to the
ground
sterile
once
Ragusa
in 1292, swept
by
number
she was
left
to govern herself
when
all
make themselves
felt in
Europe.
became Vene-
MOTORING
territory
north to
taro
THE BALKANS
IN
Then
miles.
aid.
little
very progressive
in
1432
established a
first
public
refugees, fleeing
They seem
to
from
have
In 1460 Ragusa
patriotic citizens.
Mohammed
II.,
itself
was besieged by
second
occurred in
and a
fire
1462;
terrible
visitation
of the plague
increased their
exceedingly.
At
inhabitants.
Its
this time
Ragusa
silks.
said to have
prospered
had 40,000
and
is
buildings,
Think
it
manufactured woollen
stufifs
and even
is
to the Indies!
"The word
'argosy,' or 'ragosy,'
But
in
little
RAGUSA
Republic,
terrible
twenty months and doing hideous damage. This was followed by so dreadful a plague that 20,000 persons are said
to have lost their lives.
With
and many
soldiers
of further earthquakes
rivals
on the
sea,
But the most complete calamity that befell her was the earthquake of 1667, which demohshed the cathedral, unroofed
all
the churches
and a multitude
another
established,
on which
site
of private houses,
city
took
fire
and
killed
was proposed
to
the
Ragusans
remain
on
this
1805 the
first
The
was pro-
January
public of
31,
city
1808,
been joined
exist.
this sturdy
Since 18 14
it
Rehas
rule.
it
its
rulers
all
these centuries,
MOTORING
for its position
IN
"exposed
it
THE BALKANS
as
it
to
was a
its
(Sir
Gardner Wilkinson.)
The
May,
is
in full swing.
me
The day
before
we
fied sea-gull.
his
the
first
in
I hie
is
and Summer
leave this
more
two weeks
happy
city
squares.
"Does he
"Why,
"He
fly
will
soon be back."
there?"
I ask.
certainly," he replies,
as
if
to say,
''How
else
should he go?"
"But
will
his
"He
is
think."
"He
RAGUSA
"He
is
man.
I wait before the Rector's Palace, feasting
its
lovely lines,
my eyes upon
and picturesque passersthe sweet, soft southern air, and it is
from
his
my
With
down
flies
stone's
throw of
on one
side, as
my
much
Why
fectly easy.
How saucily
hand.
is
nothing.
When we
Cetinje
attempted by
tourists.
ferry,"
reminded
Madame
"As
at the
a good-sized row-boat.
large as
"Oh,
back
"Yes,
to turn
ours?"
well, of that I
am
not sure.
If
completed!"
For there
is
from
towering mountains,
it
around
Beneath
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
Meljinc,
Montenegro begins. Already it is finished as far as Kamenari and is passable, although somewhat narrow, for a few
miles further on.
trated into
its
I believe
coast, just
of the Drin.
*'Let us go
down
to Zelenika,
inadequate we can
"You
"if
we
at the
find
them
reassured, the
friend,
talk
fell
upon our
plans.
"No,
'm
afraid
we won't be
motor," answered
Madame
Content; "and
"Oh, I'm
little
me."
across
RAGUSA
the
way
Do
And
up.
shipped
them by
but the banker and the gasohne dealer both agreed that
the steamship
to
handhng
such bulky, heavy, yet delicate, objects, the landing arrangements at Cattaro would probably be found unsafe. In
fact there
and
"Why
"Of
ties,
would
the Austrian
is
navy
not loaning
its
vessels to stranded
and a permit
make
and
if
inquiries, as
we
all
What day
in their
most courteous
power
for visiting
be equally convenient."
can be done."
I
am
afraid
we were
we thanked them
We knew
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
that motors
down from
the dock
some
six feet
above
that
As
We
''Oh, yes!
our car only tipped the scales at the modest weight of one
and one-half
tons,
suspicion any
from our
that they
influential
friends
the
when we
welcome news
and
that
It
was decided
that
we
strait in the
Bocche
174
di Cattaro.
CHAPTER XVT
RAGUSA TO ZELENIKA
piERO
was
right
shining gloriously
it
when
awakened
the sound
and the
that
street.
sun was
morning
to
Opening the
by a company of
small boys. It seems
band,
for scarcely
to
Widow
is
this ?
to
in
asm on
too,
it
in
quite
the
Merry
Waltz.
But what
and
this military
is
by the hotel
rather
the music
come
faint
and more
faint
as
they disappear
They
MOTORING
down, ready
for
some
of
The
travelling.
THE BALKANS
IN
Little girls
them leading by
trudge alone.
victoria
the
below has
tiny to
and adorning the lanterns. Is he a nature-loving coachman; or is some one important leaving by the boat this
morning; or
Behold,
is
this
May Day
celebration?
still
this
its
in
appearance!
had
Smaller in
Ragusa.
drum
major.
The
charge does
officer in
drum,
down
the
hill,
The
brown
soft
ear.
Evidently
passes.
lively
Another
it
It is
jesta.
negro.
first
scarlet
And
of
this
is
the
way
the
May.
and
side
is
deep
vehicle,
breeze,
is
we
leave Ragusa,
tempering
"What
we
are
on the highway
to
rilK
MOAI'
cow KRIKI)
IN'
To A i'ARK, RACUJSA
RAGUSA TO ZELENIKA
"
Why do
men wear a
the
lamb's-wool coat,
Madame
for
it
it
so hot?" inquires
is
is
another
how
noticed
wonder, when
Content.
"Because
and
is
it
Have
so very becoming.
n't
you
and the hang-
when
their return
all
all sorts
persists,
of weather,
you see;
and they are climbing the mountains on
will
be very glad of
that clothing."
The
first
stemmed dandelions
in
clusters
strange
fields,
long-
The horses,
all
too swiftly.
"Did you
this
and
sorry beasts,
new monster
and
jackets
MOTORING
IN
THE BALKANS
people there are noted for their good looks and becoming
costumes."
The
cliff
overhangs
turns,
new
and point
the Punta d 'Ostro
line of white,
until
The
mulberries are in
full leaf in
sheltered corners, as
lies
with
yards
its figs
men
and
olives,
precious vine.
"Look!
coat
tumes,"
Madame
to enjoy
Out from
Content
Breno
Near
it
is
lies,
nice just
passing
we
climb again
Plat the
smooth high-
"I think
replies.
all
RAGUSA TO ZELENIKA
is soft
my Lacroma
Hke a Cherokee
flower,
we
''Oh, can't
longer.
rose.
can
resist
no
bunch of flowers?"
I cry.
"Why
not?"
replies the
Leader.
And
with a sharp
picturesquely placed,
Its
con-
Mrkan and
circles
Supetar.
named
antiquity.
its
is
city.
It is
Since 639,
when
it
and drove
We
now and
it
village.
rise
task.
let
them
pass,
MOTORING
One
THE BALKANS
IN
How
triumphantly she
one
her
her
hand
on
cheeks
stands,
hip,
rivalling the bright
red of her cap under the demure white coif as she beckons
gayly for us to go on
A
sterile
marks
the
of
route
the
new
into
the
flooded
green
is
already
we
another
plain,
At
railroad.
cross
winter
Cilipi
it
to descend
it
lake,
where
water
recedes.
Skirting
Gruda, a valley of
by high
usual
vines,
hills.
in
sight
we reach
its
Dalmatia;
blue
swallows
circle
over
it
source,
we climb by
beyond a gendarmerie,
the Bocche di Cattaro.
just
the Leader
its
we
get our
first
view of
bays
at the
short.
downward
in charge,
RAGUSA TO ZELENIKA
finches
fly,
seeming to
reflect the
low-lying meadows.
Herzegovinian
territory,
iris,
ceme-
little
we come
The
strip of the
to the
hills bristle
its
In the distance, to
the south,
we
to the Bocche.
The
entrance
in Slavic characters.
As we near Castelnuovo
the
little
flow with roses; great bushes, heavy with pink bloom, hang
we on
the
Sheltered
by
back
high mountains from the north wind, basking in the splendors of a southern sun, with the waters of an inland sea at
its feet,
all
In Slavic Erzegnovi,
niak King Tvarko
the capital of the
Stjepan Sandal j.
to
I.,
"it
was founded
Kotromanovic."
dukedom
in 1373
Indeed, the
name Herzegovina
this town.
At
Duke
is
said
MOTORING
still
IN
THE BALKANS
months, when
the
Turks overwhelmed
them.
We
tions,
The
now
tiled
fortifica-
we
in the port.
Close
way, Zelenika.
Why Zelenika?
traveller, clean,
of the
182
CHAPTER
XVII
ZFXENIKA
'""
^HERE
Baedeker
end of the
all
line," gleefully
by
itself in
comments Madame
after a
up from her guide-book as,
luncheon, served on a sunny balcony overhanging
Content, looking
delicious
the water,
we
fumed
and the
air
to see,
the fine
sit
no church, no \dew, no
"There
is
village, even.
is
n't
a thing
We
can be
How
beautiful
by the buzzing
of
it
is,
up
in profusion.
The
and every-
air is sweet
daisies
man-of-war rides
at
"Do
in
our
inlet
and
itself
goes
MOTORING
once a week?" asks
know,
don't
as
I feel
this
if
THE BALKANS
IN
my
"Do
companion, dubiously.
you
were pretty near the jumping-off place,
you?"
pay
who have
so kindly offered
and
fro,
and the
The
di Topla.
Kumbor toward
sails
"observing their
is
blowing
off
along, one of
first
the Baja
of
May
Are they,
as a holiday" ?
fine
too,
breeze
them
so near that
we can hear
merry-makers.
ing a horse.
it
for
is
off
sails
if
floats, silent
Yes,
and the
he were tether-
as a dreamship
other,
Would
n't
it
it
closer?"
"What
"I
am
do?"
least.
go determin-
'^-'i.-^-r-c-'.ri.'^-
^-^^
ZELENIKA
"You are?" and Her
me.
**
is
Oh, Signore,"
such a queer
fish
out here;
it
might
do so want
claret-
to see
near,
feeble
"There
are
many
and he points
to
my
Is that it?"
tom
explanations.
they grow
it
young
yet.
A boat is untied, an
"Yes, yes," I exclaim, eagerly
old tin bucket procured, and we fish up Madamoiselle
Medusa. In glee I carry her to Madame Content with the
and we study her strange openings
and shuttings, her marks and fringe of softest feathery
brown. She turns politely at our invitation, and submits
to the
plainly palls
pail
after a
few minutes we
own
new
zest
and
When
the Leader
alert step
is
rolls
briny element.
project.
it?"
"We
would love
of the
it,
but where?"
his
"What
There seems
to be
"I thought
Meljine."
185
Thus tempted, we
mere word.
sitting
Madame
the
all
time, too."
"But
siast;
isn't
it
an ideal
May Day?"
in the
olden times
when
chil-
"Do look at those steps! What beautiful moss!" inter"Where do they lead, I wonder?"
rupts Madame Content.
and she follows
The Leader
it
does look
like
is
n't
"Why,
up
"Is
and
his
We
a church.
might go up and
see."
We
up,
down
domed church; a
tall
white belfry;
"What
the
is
it?"
Leader had
in
but not a
friar or
priest.
know
is
stroll.
ZELENIKA
"It
is
was founded
""ollows
Grec
by
Orthodox monks driven from Trebinje by the Moslems,
it
now it belongs to
a summer residence";
but
the
who
the
Leader
is
uses
well launched
it
as
upon
his topic.
"Oh, when
is
must be well
at that time
it?" I cry.
dour "
Summertime!
from there."
We
lofty
rise
What
terrace.
a panorama
lies
to another
before us!
Santa
mountains
the
of
Montenegro
in
rising
opalescent
splendor.
As we
exhales
rest
its
on the ivy-covered
wall,
and
rollicking numbers.
begms
then
trills
it
rather
forgetting all
his ecstasy in
gay
Other birds hear him, farther
187
MOTORING
IN
THE BALKANS
and the
letters
pect that
we have
Greek!
lost
our way,
in places the
sus-
walk degen-
new
picture
the
gleam-
all
this
"Let me
see,"
little
at Meljine.
encampment
late that
same evening,
think
it
is
"I do hope we
'11
have a day
Enthusiast.
z88
like to-day,"
exclaims the
CHAPTER XVIII
ENTERING MONTENEGRO
TT
was with a
Zelenika
distinct thrill
sunht
that
Montenegro by
that
indeed,
if
was
started
away from
nightfall,
we
rich in figs
and
to
be in
The
we
sheltered valley of
by us marching.
The Bay
of
Teodo opened
behind
it
to
Cetinje."
''That
It
is
Lovcen, and we go
tent,
"and
them
see
sailors, too.
I don't believe
let
your camera."
So the innocent black box was sent into limbo and
memories.
The clumsy
MOTORING
terns,
THE BALKANS
IN
Cherry and
fig trees
flourished in
by stone
made a
It
walls,
and
delightful
The
horses, frightened as
much by
one
off
quay on the
the power some fifty
side, the
other.
away, but nothing could reasAnd nothing could calm his terror,
feet
until, in his
thud" meant.
chauffeur ran
down
Gentle Lady, as
all
I instinctively
"We may
all
commanded
reached down
the
beI
secure."
I failed to get
a picture of
did not try to run and under the chauffeur's calm guidance
silent car.
The
to temporarily
190
vehicle
mend
was righted
the dilapidated
ENTERING MONTENEGRO
To
"We
two minutes
after
we
left
exclaimed
The
One
to dry.
Such loads as
Le Catene, and
called
strait
is
still
Kamenari we
How
to
It
trating
no means
of reaching
an exquisite blue
it
perfectly
calm and
beautiful
of all
government barge
to
!
in the distance
The
officer in
charge
request.
191
my
MOTORING
"Would
the car
there be
THE BALKANS
IN
my
to
any objection
photographing
on board?"
"Not
of our crossing
The
was soon
registered
on the
little
black spool.
was some
up
its
when
was
so short, too,
the big
own power,
motor came
banging, and,
we
the fly-wheel.
that no serious
at
the
When
done.
disembarking
rolled
it
a future
meeting, sped
au
We
revoir to the
made an appointment
away on the
road for
fine
Cattaro.
Two
swam
fairy islands
"It
is
in the
Madonna
dello
projecting rock.
for
The custom
is still
off
with
of
continued,
I believe,
Perasto
n
JO
O
VI
v>
A
y.
y.
y,
y.
05
ENTERING MONTENEGRO
bound
The
other island
tiny
May
They
town
the
abandoned
of Perasto, nestling
Monte Cassone.
is
and the
corner
Splendid
Gulf of
appeared in the
it
many
villages!
An
blue
Soldiers
lent
popped from
orange
sail
animation
moved
across the
the
to
scene.
glassy
Sentinels
their
hillsides,
fruits.
The Judas
trees
dropped
their
"That must be
On
the far side of the bay bare peaks rose sheer from
the shore,
see
the water.
"Do
you
up on the mountain's
Lovcen?" eagerly asked the
snow
of
Leader.
"What?
That queer
sort of gigantic
on the wall?"
"Yes,
yes, there
above Cattaro."
193
angular writing
MOTORING
"What
"It
is
THE BALKANS
IN
it?" I asked,
still
mystified.
is
negro."
I
pose
shivered a
it 's
little
"
I sup-
safe."
her, boldly!
get there
it
we speed
Silently
where more
soldiers are
marching and
drilling in the
narrow
road;
The
line
runs up the
cliff
in
and town
its
its artificiality.
and calendula,
They say
gilly flowers
and
iris,
snowballs and
rags,
May Day
Many
an
lilacs.
ideal
bushes are
among
Are
Locust-trees,
the vines
on the
ter-
50
W
O
O
JO
c/;
H
K
W
W
c
o
n
II
w
u
H
Oi
h
05
<
H
<
o
o
ENTERING MONTENEGRO
raced slopes, myrtle and asphodel spring
Our
ners.
Bon
favorite
Silene rose
is
in neglected cor-
up
of
blue.
The road
But the car stops
facing a new dilemma.
leads between two houses which stand so close together that
a donkey tethered beside one, in turning to look at us, completely blocks the way.
is
Madame,
who
runs
Half of the
the
up
little
hill in
hamlet has
highway!" he
that
meaning
unties the
jeers,
if
his
kerosene tins
upon
the gray
words are
great
in a Slavic tongue.
And
he
filled
cliff
as
come
we
soldiers.
cross a
into the
is
flaunting
river,
and
its
just
The
highway leading
to
Montenegro.
at
about eleven,
up
of Cattaro
We
"Che!
as any one.
go spinning by.
We meet more
flag
much
or
the mountain
and that
all
it
would be wise
to get
ahead of
it is
just as nerve-wearing
some-
an experience
for
wagons
we
take
and
it,
always
every known
avoid danger. As we turn sharply to the
or carriages meeting
precaution to
it
195
MOTORING
right to ascend the pass,
IN
it is,
THE BALKANS
therefore, a satisfaction to see
before us, nearly ready for the ascent, a procession of fourteen large
with
five
all
well-filled saddle-bags.
the waits
and caution
minutes, so that
possible,
we breathe a
it
takes us fully
sigh of relief
wall.
when we
Meadows, pink
By
we reach
it
we
take, leaving
feet
above
us,
and the
fields of
Bay
of
fer-
rice.
we
to
outline
sea
map
hills,
them-
beyond
in the
wonderful panorama.
After crossing the empty bed of the mountain torrent,
196
ENTERING MONTENEGRO
Zvironjak,
we soon commence
is
upon the
so bare, so devoid of
It is
mottled mountains.
neck-
brilliant
erchief
How
mendous landscape
As we wait for
pears in the
up on such a
before one
marvellous
it
must be
the radiator to be
filled,
woman
ap-
at
She does not lack for color among these gray rocks.
Her
flock of
birds, startled
see their
large,
sail
black
overhead,
wing feathers
free at
"Can you
must be
forty."
"What
MOTORING
"I
must
am
see
not
answer.
sure,"
whether there
THE BALKANS
IN
is
"Possibly vultures.
number
of
them confront
us.
The panorama
eight altogether.
resonant cavern,
we wait
six
Then
passing a
baggy
The
trousers, red
short
coat,
and yellow
red
we
are
now
in
feet).
the shoulder of
rise so
high
we sweep around
forts
and endless
and
get our
first
we descend
Ragusa and
impressions of Montenegro.
The roadbed
198
'
'
TB^\^^-\
>'i
-
if
-?"'
.'
THE HOTEL AT
.ii.^-/.'
N'JECIUS,
MOXTEXKC.Ri
-^
WIXOOW
;-.<#
ENTERING MONTENEGRO
the mighty peaks of
Lovcen
queer circular
fields the
In scat-
men
are ploughing, a
woman
in
twirls
we approach, standing
at attention
in military fashion.
The
the simple
out.
It is
summer home
is
lies
behind us as we
flat,
overlapping
sterile hillsides,
women
place apart.
They have
and
the stony
their backs.
We
is
a drink, and making one more loop attain the top of the pass.
as
MOTORING
There
her features.
is
THE BALKANS
IN
in inconceivable disorder,
snow-covered mountains.
"That
is
Lake
do
you see
it
sparkle
lies
of Scutari."
Near us
the Karst
is
and a
and
free,
adds the
We
by
costumes.
soft blue
peaks
the
little
bow from
into green
the waist
and brown
highway leads
It is Cetinje.
us;
mapped
surrounded
sight,
set off
fields
in
Do
little
and
salute
straight,
girls
and
drop a
By
hotel
the time
we
we
Turkish
coffee
Only the
CHAPTER XIX
CETINJE
"
A RE
"No,
Content, *'but
think
tired,"
we ought
Madame
answered
to rest a
little
before seeing
to rest
looking out of
It is
a continuous mediaeval
of soft tans
beyond the
How
on a stage
cele-
setting
hills rising
red-tiled houses.
broad avenue in
all
men
appear, sauntering
the
a dazzling
down
there
is
away
effect of
When
gorgeous color,
But
they approach
dom," with
is
off to per-
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
One
clothes except
on the occasional
no European
sees
Only
foreigner.
rarely
marked by their
clanking Russian swords, walk leisurely up and down,
Do the women peer at them
objects of admiration indeed.
officers,
from behind the blinds of the pale pink and green stucco
houses ?
for no ladies are to be seen in public.
countryman drives
his
He
city.
them.
rebelling
pigs
brown struka
minds among
as a
whip
to guide them.
One man
wagon
up
fezes
in the market-place ?
and white
his shoulder;
fills
amble
into
"Is
n't
we hasten
has he
town on donkeys.
A man climbs
can on
the lamp,
little
with a
and descends,
quaint
he
group of Albanians
rag,
full,
strides after
sold his
him
before
come
down
to illuminate this
capital.
it
to
make
ready.
commands
Crown
hotel
Prince.
202
The
its
CETINJE
an unpretentious, comfortable-looking, large, sunny building, with a tiny balcony
over the main entrance and a beautiful garden at the back.
Nicola
I. is
Opposite
is
on a
who
senior
representative
owing
of
Obrenovitch
the
Crown
is,
Prince Mirko
much
dynasty,
is
liked everywhere.
gifted as a poet, a composer,
"Wonderfully
cian, adept in all
manly
and a musiand
sports, high-spirited
at the
Queen
of Italy,
sister,
his
little
farther
on
in the
sunny
street is
supreme
court, a
tive offices.
grammar
Beyond
school,
now used
for a
it,
a fortress-like
Orlov Krs,
is
the
dome
protects the
on the quay
On
tomb
of Danilo II.,
at Cattaro in i860.
little city,
who was
He was
a gilded
assassinated
the uncle
203
hill,
and pre-
that point
surrounded by
MOTORING
bare mountain peaks,
is
IN
THE BALKANS
we were
The
principality of
Servians
who
fled to
conquered Servia
maintained their
courage.
to
time of need.
Berlin this
it
The
him dear
Europe.
to his
He
own
people, but
won
for
him
the respect of
Only 3500 square miles in area, it contains a quara million of inhabitants, and when one realizes the
country.
ter of
soil,
under which they labor, one cannot but admire the loyalty,
the courage, and the kindness of this splendid mountain
race.
"My
brain
is
just as full of
new
ward
in the twilight.
impressions as
it
can
we meandered home-
light of
4;-
II.
R.
H. I'RIXCK
MCOLA
-^Sasiai^
1.,
TIIF,
-Hl^J
KL-LKR OF
MoXTKXEGR O
II.
R.
H.
I'RIXCKSS MILEXA,
I.
CETINJE
marked songster in the sycamore close to my window had
awakened me. Between the stuccoed houses the same gayly
attired
crowd sauntered
in the
But
horse
noble grace.
some personage,
and
Over
his coat of
was wonderfully
his
my
window, enjoying
toward
the mountains.
"I'm
morning,
sir," I
"for they
're
afraid I
'11
But
my
'11
door,
do the
best I can."
My
curiosity
"Where
is
aroused.
"Come and
am
is
see."
And through
hung
wash.
we have unearthed
"and
the
it
in?"
motor
set is
in its midst.
MOTORING
make
it
look
very
disfavor
tinct
his
THE BALKANS
IN
And
well."
all
regarded
"There are
precious car.
and they
he
in the
live
automobile,"
he
drawls.
We
hooked
to
Some
festive throng.
some
the shoulders.
brown shade,
"a,
them
perfectly;
in graceful folds.
their
We
wool
coats,
rains
if
it is
cold
skirt is
possibly in deference to
it
hangs
needed
it is
enough
are fortunate
costume.
if it
If not
coats
hang
free.
European
flounce,
is
thp:
struka
MONTENEGRIN OFFICERS
CETINJE
A
embroidery.
and she
black lace
veil falls
One morning
we walked
as
saw a long
idly
down
the
Katunska
in
line of soldiers
drawn up outside
the door of a
small church.
"It
is
the service
at the palace,
on being questioned.
he answered.
kodaking him?"
He shrugged his shoulders and kept his eyes on my little
black box as I sat upon a friendly boulder, patiently awaiting
"Will there be any objection to
my
It
Upon
company
of soldiers.
attentive,
smoking
men, carrying no
handsome young
fellow,
moulded
MOTORING
''It
''Oh,
for the
THE BALKANS
IN
if
it
was."
"7/, indeed!"
comes,
"When
answered.
just think
We
that
have to go
shall
all
happy time
around the
on the
the
hill
"That must be
the
way
only
way
disappeared.
to Rjeka,"
"The
it
mused
the Leader.
is."
to find out
is
to
We
but we had
as
we
We
all
the
many
teous salutes;
watch the
country people
this
who
dignified
little city.
and
sights about us
folk,
leisure to
passed
eyes.
more
was evidently
a
208
hill
were
favorite
well-dressed
city
promenade when
CETINJE
more
was
exercise
needed than
the
broad
Katunska
afforded.
At the top of the ridge, beyond the small inn, we descended to an elbow curving toward the east, and there we
obtained a splendid view of the Lake of Scutari and the
day
"The Lake
before.
murmured.
of Scutari," I
It
we
down upon
looking
actually
neighboring
in
cell
mean
to
my memory
The
occupies a
It
to the Vale of
Cashmere
strange adventure."
down
it.
me romance and
"We
it
"I associate
to Rjeka.
"Why
can't
The road
we
drive
down?
It is
"Yes, but
it is
2000
feet
below
it,
We
back!
museums
pistols,
are
many
in these parts.
In their new
negrin army.
One
native
gun
209
is
of
is
MOTORING
said, in the
IN
THE BALKANS
have held
Turks invaded
last
to
this
at
bay
last
cen-
"troublesome country,"
210
CHAPTER XX
BACK INTO DALMATIA
TT
left
the
morning when we
of Montenegro and
attractive
little
capital
throng.
groups of
in
heavy overcoats,
left
the hotel
morning
The snowy
exercise.
heights of
Lovcen
if
Prince Peter
11.
ing fields on
its
to prevent
our passage.
summit.
Soon
Near
glitter-
often made,
we encoun-
The
When
we remembered
shorter.
it
But we had
thirty- nine
minutes
MOTORING
from the
THE BALKANS
IN
hotel,
Madame
think," remarked
"I
am
thankful
we could
get the
we
slid
in the
When we
Prince's birthplace,
we
mountain-side.
"I do hope some one will find it," commented the Leader,
"Won't
looking back searchingly along the bare highway.
there be a celebration
picked up
among
when a
we were on
he thought of the
silver heirlooms.
And
the boulders?"
is
rolled,
and
in seven
min-
wonderful prospect of the Bocche and mountains surrounding it. The marvellous beauty of this indescribable scene
impressed us anew.
The shadows
the extraordinary
on the
morning seemed
impression from the flat noonit.
highway lay
of the
Beyond
212
Twenty-six different
n
PI
levels
We
all
it
left
was
Montenegro behind
the route.
chauffeur and
the outer edge
pen
if
the
wrong
Coasting quietly
down
sailors,
The
es
of fine
debris,
curious plant
and here
known
in
it
is
We
and descended
formed.
Then bowling
caravan had
its
we came
to
where
pointed campanile,
MOTORING
its
THE BALKANS
IN
tions,
was
its
commanding
fortifica-
With a
we turned
Le Catene and
It
was not
pulled
into the
narrow
straits
away from
on
soft
air
quieter,
lovelier spot.
"May
the quay.
opposite,
which served
to light the
dark
interior.
directly
A counter
ran across one side, with bottles and boxes of various kinds
down
dried-up, sweet-faced
woman
looked mystified.
I sat
of the shop
As soon
in the
as she understood
way
of photographic
"Prego,
racked
my
I could
buy.
Signora,^'
she
continually
interpolated.
^^
as she produced!
"
But of Lepetane ?
of tinsel
and
actresses
remarked.
"It
is
too small
a village."
"Wouldn't Madame
And a
like to rest
conducted us up a steep, bare, clean little stairway to a spotless room, where bunches of lilacs in vases
sister
we were allowed
and
to wander.
The
lilacs, all
and beyond the stone wall the blue waters of the Bocche,
with snowy mountains still farther away. The friendly
and placed a
with which she
presented us.
for us
lilacs
sisters
were ready to do
The huge
up
in lavish pro-
the
hill to
other
from
propelled
by
man,
in
draped
sail,
what pictures
standing men
long oars
But
three languages
Ger
French
was "Warnung"
up
at
plainly, in
Italian,
in
in
set
215
MOTORING
on a conspicuous
Bocche."
THE BALKANS
IN
"No
pole.
photographing about
the
post,
kindly
to
me
tell
whom
to
must apply
to
to secure permission
narrow
strait.
ically.
He
He knew no
Italian.
As
the good
I
"Sergeant"
there
her that
earth"
it
if
the
Madame
would be
all
to
my
if
he thought
He
pictures.
assured
right,
nay."
I
now why
be forbidden to me
cannot see
should
exactly alike.
confined
my
However,
the
modern
his
prejudices and
respected
A demure
little girl
and
visitors,
(How do
pointing to herself.
the
ta/^
name of that ?)
and
was
and
^'Kako
I risked
my
se zove ova?^'
What
is
lost
in
reduced to naught.
hill
knew
Point-
above a lighthouse
pected I recognized
Probably
it
with delight.
barge?"
We
Castelnuovo,
Bay.
watch
it
it
until, instead of
proceeding toward
Teodo
it
and
his
efficient
crew
This time
they
have
difficulty.
We
And
woman
vina."
Kam-
Zelenika.
More
delicious
217
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
Ragusa.
The
fearless
wires as
from the
rising
and we stop
Austrian
officials to
tating our
"It
tower
's
may
call
upon
Montenegrin
facili-
trip.
walk up
the
street looking
to that
hesitated,
little
and we
To my
up the
and
in at the
open
needed
some
assistance
to
door.
Occasionally they
get
were
and
I
as
the
stuffed
saddle-bags
bulky.
through,
wanted
to follow
them
my
to see
am
dazzling.
steps
"I must
find a place to
archway
led
to a small court,
change
An open
I
where
peered
within.
"Might
arrange
my
camera here?
It is
necessary to
AT CAS1KL.\UIJ\0
damp
cloth,
man,
with which, in a
"From
delightedly,
trice,
me
and rushed
off
one
began
my
was
his
he wiped
intently as I
Trieste?" he muttered.
answered.
have a son
in
America,"
proud response.
And whereabouts
"Have you?
in
America might he
be?"
"In Buenos Ayres," he answered.
I am from America del Nord."
"Oh, America del Sud
This made
America a
little
far
impression,
across
country
America was
could see.
the
sea why
make
invidious distinctions ?
"And how
"A
year."
"And
does he
like it?'
"Very much."
"It must be different from here."
"Madame
likes
it
here?"
We left
now about
The Bocche
is
enchanting and
three.]
What
a wonderful drive
down
the
mountain!"
looking at
my
me more
intently.
enthusiastic remark.
am
sure
There was no
MOTORING
"Yes,"
THE BALKANS
IN
my
otherwise "
who had
his assistant,
And
ently.
joined
him an
me
had
man
to
apprentice, appar-
"An
little,
what kind
had strayed
of a lunatic
As
host again.
waved us a
before
was very
after,
we reached
How
respectful salutation.
serve one
kindly
for breath
rina from the Val Canali, but our friend, the brook, rippling
down
The
relief.
an extra
pailful
radiator tank
carried along,
and merrily
we
refilled,
at the hotel
become one
experiences.
221
and
thrilling
CHAPTER XXI
ENTERING THE HERZEGOVINA RAGUSA TO GACKO
VIA TREBINJE
U AGUSA
means
me
purple
iris
wooded
in all
in brilliant national
we
linger there,
costumes!
wandering
Eight
up
the
slopes of
rough paths of
our
leave
it
Around
passing
Dalmatian
city,
may
be
or never could I
when we
ing
set
many women
Tower and
through sloping acres of wild iris and aloe, popabove the hazy sea we continue
pies and the yellow gorse
our joumeyings. We glance at San Giacomo and take a last
their heads;
look at Ragusa as
after follow-
ing the lovely curves of the Val d 'Orsola, near a small settle-
perhaps the
prettiest valley in
222
Dalmatia.
And
this
must
RAGUSA TO GACKO
surely be the loveliest time of the year, with
new
We
down with
the varying
grain.
shel-
all
fervid heat.
and the
little
it,
is
seen on
stares
all
at
us.
The road
signs.
characters are to be
Slavic
Only
is
and as we put on
fine;
last
panion.
of upper Dalmatia,
some young
rocks
and
trees,
As we
enter the
Is
upright.
on
the
it
us.
by
A crested
a kind of laurustinus ?
ground,
us again;
beyond
flits
nearby.
hills rise
crowned
the
Gradually
is
rocks
enclose
mountain peaks
A
Montenegro.
seen below us, which we soon
the snows
by
lark alights
of
cross.
"What
"Wait
will
its
name was?"
I ask.
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
make me understand
trying to
"
of paper.
The
Trebisnjica or Tribinjcica."
Here vineyards
and tobacco
flourish,
Even
is
intense, the
snow
when
it
down,
Trebinje
is
The
a charming
town
old
bit of
is
moat,
particularly the
little
It
girls!
was
my
first
glimpse of the
all I
swarm
sight of
my
me
Such
in
my
brilliancy
How
of color!
1878
nimble
The
waists
short
and baggy
for
until
far too
words
They were
was hopeless
must remember
territory
RAGUSA TO GACKO
of
Moslem
the
still
Austria,
traditions
are
carefully
respected.*
To any
is
Cairo or Constantinople,
at
when used
The
call to prayer,
hotel
is
fairly
when
that
room
for
the
numerous
mere casual
guests.
He
"Oh,
and
There
have a
will
man
is
a fence about
it
to
watch
we
it
evident that
anxiety leads us to
visit
it
as
it
Our
shady trees, and we find a red-fezzed native solemnly walking around it, with a stout stick, which he brandishes over
the heads of the small boys
too near.
are
His task
numerous and
As we
is
when
no sinecure,
them
agile.
leave Trebinje, a
company
of soldiers
marching
where and
forts
from Trebinje
on
all
to
the heights.
*This was in May, 1908. In the following October these two provinces were
formally annexed and became an integral part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
225
MOTORING
waterway
THE BALKANS
IN
among
maintained in
fine
When
of Bosnia
is
very
warm
in
making
The wind
we climb
as
these excellent
is
in the south
We
have not been able to find any one who has been in Gacko,
is
possible.
we
woman,
spin-
pass, erect as a
young Greek
goddess, the wind blowing her black lamb's-wool coat back
from her embroidered apron. As long as we can see her,
ning, stands spellbound as
A
very
she?" com-
much
or cattle.
is
of Samothrace, isn't
skirt,
goes over a blue long-sleeved waist and the small red cap
it,
while a red-tasselled
flat
RAGUSA TO GACKO
embroidered with gold, and the flower
in his turban, making an effective picture.
his red velvet jacket
we
For water
the wayside.
is
"Is
n't there
in the intervals
is
highly treasured.
more
Huge
and
tasselled harness
and
We
From
"The
women, and
are
"F.
the
confronted
J.
anew with
mountain
as
the
is
striking
slope.
The
lilacs
children.
and
imperial
initials,
bloom
fruit-trees are in
Taking advantage
flying
Of
of a particularly
bang!
along the highway when
course,
no one of us
rejoices
smooth
when we
tire
lose
bit,
we
are
has burst.
tire,
but
if
we reach
227
MOTORING
A
THE BALKANS
IN
in silent
awe and
curiosity to
They form a
walls.
huge chauffeur; while from a neighboring balcony a woman leans for information and a gay retort. A
Turkish house, with overhanging eaves, stands at the corner
close to the
where our highway leads and higher up, above some turbaned graves, a mosque with tall white minaret appears.
Near
us, before
wheel,
filling
woman
turns a squeaky
to get a cooling
we two seek
my
calls
my
companion,
in
an excited
and follow-
toward us a
up
attire,
the
hill
moun-
"Oh!
Content
for the
is
but I
countenance of the
may
wool
a bride?" asks
no Turk, but he
She
it's
you suppose
man
may have
is
stern
Madame
a picture to answer,
and forbidding.
He
skirt
velvet sleeve-
A PirruRESQi-i-:
cori'i,,';,
hii.kk
RAGUSA TO GACKO
less coat
and
down both
sides
is
around her neck and from her cap hang coins and pendant
jewels; her belt buckles are enormous and of beautiful
workmanship; on her
white head-kerchief,
led fringe.
is
draped a
and over a
eer
preter.
acquaintance,
if
friendly smiles
mean
anything;
but the
The
is
chaufifeur
is
now
putting
fairly
whiz across a
fertile,
away
veils
the air
and
pump, which
of dust coats.
We
at us
behind their
veils.
we
fafl
ing
is
to discover.
up and down
The road
the low
it
hills.
is
excellent
At our
and we go
twist-
a storm.
229
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
"Yes, that
"Oh, not
fresh air
We
is
is
we answer
yet,"
in
"This
so delightful."
pass
flocks of sheep
many
it
is
back the
Madame
Content.
for
very near us the snow appears and white fields surround us.
This
is
feet),
of rain.
Troglav (4340
drops
us so that
we enjoy
the splendid
panorama
of the
Monte-
negrin Alps rising on our right, white with the freshly fallen
snow.
we descend,
then
torrent,
up into the
recesses of the
mountains again.
we
by
walls or hedges.
and undivided
some
places, in others
230
men
are harvest-
RAGUSA TO GACKO
ing,
and
in
still
The
vesper spar-
Is
it
Over
the
to Avtovac,
231
Musica River,
we reach Gacko
CHAPTER XXII
GACKO TO MOSTAR SOURCE OF THE BUNA
A COLD
rain
is
falling,
the
two hundred
feet
above the
Gacko
is
three thousand,
sea.
on one
we know
in the
that
stair-
square
If
it
has another
atmosphere of
The
Of
garlic!
do not per-
ceive
it,
The Leader
and
at
We
is
no
first,
stop in dismay;
for,
"She won't
along a
little
Madame,
to let us pass.
232
and
move
GACKO TO MOSTAR
The rooms marked "Fremden
Zimmer'''' over
book plainly
The windows
said.
The
floor
German
is
guide-
are small
each door
of the cheapest.
stain,
tiny,
about ten
worn rug
to my relief.
On
by each bed, and those beds are of iron
each is laid a red cotton quilt, neither long enough nor wide
enough
to tuck in,
quilt in size,
while the pillows are stuffed with cotton; but there are two
room
fire.
Each
safely tucked
away
in the automobile.
( ?)
in the inner
room,
evi-
a sailor
in
blouse of fancy red and white stripe, cut very low in the neck,
Kuss
die
Hand,
and
departs again.
Evidently custom
is
brisk.
We
wait patiently.
the
Hamburg
open door.
to this
Our
After
steak
through
gravely
silent,
MOTORING
"I choose the
each one of us
for
fault.
THE BALKANS
IN
is
a slight pause,
to find
first
is
an
that in the
its
use,
we
"You
The
beer
is
brought and
is
excellent.
asserts
Madame
At the other
is
what the sign over the door says. The Leader goes
in to see it, and reports two men playing billiards, three
women and two babies listening to a mechanical musical
that
is
instrument.
to
sufficient
Madame
As we go
kitchen shouts:
we
at least
When
'^Kilss die
Hand!
Guten Nachtr'
And
open
a new picture
my
fails to
and Gacko
it is
is
rarely that
no exception.
The buds
my win-
dow, but
blossom.
in the
Some one
is
plain,
is
in
it
man
or
GACKO TO MOSTAR
woman
Evidently a
woman,
for as she
As she passes
sixteen strong,
They
to-day?
on
I
to
is
Has
she
come
Will
Ragusa.
be
it
Hamburg
wonder?
Great
is
arrival.
of a mile
up
the
hill
of
Gacko
lies
perhaps a quarter
least one-half
at this early
little girls
wooden sandals on
less shy.
but must be an
mountain
The
coffee
we have
sible!
The
air.
Our morning
pated.
cotton trousers,
frosty
full
Levant,
more
bare feet;
their
hour
The
to secure
is
in to
eggs are
antici-
in tall glasses
butter, impos-
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
way but
drunk
can
purposes
to follow the
do
it
we have
at another village
?
There
stirred
shells.
is
made
seen them
is
no other
salted
and
palatable and
It is
amusing
when we come
erence
is
made
verdict
is
"I would
No
ref-
unanimous
start.
and run
this excuse
Yankee
sleeves.
"We
have to be
will
It
in the dis-
horseman
to the town.
We
is
do not wait
to
exchange
Many women
are squatting
on
GACKO TO MOSTAR
a narrow pass, and one drops his blue flag in amazement at
seeing us approach from the wrong direction.
Passing a wretched
Mohammedan
all
pany
of soldiers rush
down
not even
we cross
angles,
cemetery
hilltop
to look at us.
a whole com-
It is after
we have
Zalomska the
cliffs
sterile
character of
in
quick succession.
'Tt
is
the Gentle
road."
emerge from the gorge into a plain, from which the towers
of Nevesinje rise on the hillside.
many
is
"That
is
the seventh,"
we encounter
"We
and
in the
rolls
"How
by
us.
town of Nevesinje
the eighth.
have only
five
hundred
feet altogether to
when we
237
left
ascend
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
of
From
we
of
with
tile
its
steep streets,
or shining
tin, its
its
conspicuous barracks,
roofs
summit
the
of another
shadow
hundred
feet
below us
Soon
after a
shimmering
The
seventeenth,
we meet
before
we come
six
hundred
feet
is
yet
in leaf
"
now
and poppies
that
rises
above
castle
but
its
on the
us-
and the
assumes
hills
same ruined
in blossom,
238
far below;
air
"That
is
is
warm and
a
fifteenth
thp:
bridge \r .nk^star
GACKO TO MOSTAR
century castle," remarks the Leader, turning around in his
seat,
to that
We
Our
the Buna.
the people
car
is
come from
are in sight.
a hard G,
like
is
The way
is
up the
pronounced
and
in the
noon-
path bordered by hedges of pomegranate, above a rushing river, past a mill and through the
we follow our small guide to
ruins of a painted mosque,
day
heat,
little
is
Either
we
are;
we
"I don't
believe
you
will
want
it
And
just then
down
dated
mill.
way between
Over
into a dilapi-
MOTORING
to a
window
THE BALKANS
IN
At the
Lady
all
her courage
This
Buna.
river
is
said to be a con-
The change
complete that
at first I
is
so
lifts
all is,
the
floor,
finer
How
picturesque
it
Our
return.
car
flowers!
tion
is still
How
stones of a
man
incongruous
Mohammedan
it
One Herzegovinian
on the
when we
240
GACKO TO MOSTAR
each two inches across, connected by chains and a
Now, one
two
silver heart
silver hearts
village
Adonis?
inability to
speak
Never have
I regretted
and even
Is he the
four!
more keenly
my
their tongue.
past
fields
through
where Turkish
fringe.
we speed
iris;
fling their
past big
241
CHAPTER
XXIII
MOSTAR
hotel
windows
modern
face a
think
all
I shall
as, sitting
on her
tiny balcony above the fair green garden, she watches the
passers-by.
Eight
the
little girls
paulownia
trees.
They
same
perfect
Have
Or
is
it
chil-
own
childish vernacular
that
shining brasses,
silk
They
are
A woman
and gold-threaded
jerediza
MOSTAR
her hands discreetly folded
less
only a narrow
slit
in the spot-
A Servian peasant in
veil
more
toiling she is
in the
hair.
With
all
Turkish
her
sister
harem.
The
spirea bushes
lie
withering on the
to the air;
us,
the
silence.
"That
is
voice in English
we discover
in surprise
whom we had
left in
Ragusa.
''Why,
What
time.
"Now you
must show us
"First, there
"No,
there
is
I don't
is
all
the sights."
know one
thing about
to see."
243
know
"
Mostar, or what
MOTORING
much
''So
all
THE BALKANS
IN
the better,"
is
'11
enjoy
it
the more."
"Are
And
just then
To
call
to
of the
Moslem
faithful.
"Mostar
some books
"It
siast.
is
is
have been reading recently," says the Enthucertainly the largest city
Just then
it
makes
attractive.
it
arch,
to shore
we come out on
which seems
Rialto span
to
me,
towers;
but above
it
seventy- four."
I hear,
"It
The
figures
from shore
is
feet,
sixty feet
while the
mean nothing
rich,
all else
An
early
much ground."
must be very
its
its
is
in since
It
we have been
leaving Trieste,
Not
called
archaic inscription on
is,
"The Arch
is
it
reads:
Almighty God."
where I will come in
of
MOSTAR
For a stone bench extends the whole length of the
parapet, and while I rest the people in their varied daily
hours.
Mounting the
down
and
fro."
at the green
its
rocky shores,
"
question.
I
we look
Yes, we can
me
"Eleven,
from here,
How
"What wonderful
just
above the
balconied
slender,
old trees
river!
those
little
nearer."
them.
we
linger
way to
a moment and
figures,
he
halts,
women and
removes
his shoes
and
words of German
"The mosque
of
Mahomet
there
Pasa, the
Mahommed,
recites his
is
first
one
in
Mostar,
this
MOTORING
IN
THE BALKANS
am
dim
light,
The
''I
Turning away we
lattices
make
we
see
mountains.
come
tale
true ?
As we wander homeward a
on the
our
my
rises
silent air.
unspoken question.
look
"They
up
startled.
"Yes,
The
air
is
calendar declares
like July;
brilliant
blue.
it
to
the sky,
'^
their
Hetres-a- papier^
A woman
Turkish trousers passes, leading a tiny child by the hand, and balancing on her head a
board on which rest two round loaves of unbaked bread.
Is
wearing the
full
The combination
of
is
MOSTAR
amusingly incongruous, but even the Catholic
mannish garments.
rich and full and long.
these
silk,
On
women wear
It is
them up from
highway as
But the fashionable out-of-door costume for
matrons endeavor to
they walk.
women
lift
the dusty
words
in
except that
ing
it
is
up nearly a
foot
whom
This garment
envelops, head and all
in height.
it
is
thrown
the
hook
fastened, not over the throat, but just below the nose, leav-
stiff
collar to project
The
is
that morning, as
Here
and
in
it
feet in
wooden
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
sabots.
for,
She "shooed"
and
finally
had
them
at
to slip behind
merciful
load of logs and brings them, one by one, fresh water from
The sweetmeat
the fountain.
seller
comes
swarm
of but-
for-
cream).
fiorini
which
Dalmatia,
is
many
all
"sights"
times,
attractive than in
The
Oriental char-
the
bazaar,
through high-walled
and
In
and
streets,
beside
the
is
The
mass
of color
less jackets
gaiters
women
and red
fezes forming
one
solid
'
shirts, full
scarlet
fezes;
the white-gowned
pi
N
o
n
>
r
V"'
5>
7i
<f^,
THE
y\V.S
MOSIAR
MOSTAR
bowing, or kneeling in unison, produce an
all rising,
as striking as
it is
effect
picturesque.
Nor
is
these pleasant
people; but the Turks, even the men, shake their heads in
silent
negation
"What a
when
the subject
is
broached.
comments
is
an amulet to keep
her
name
believe
down
you suppose
mere ornament, or
do
in front, like
"Do
it is
that street
is
'gusla,^^^ I excitedly
exclaim, "can't
"I
we go
and see?"
but, alas!
this
it is
of civilization.
She wears no
groom
veil
is
"and that
is
distinguished
by a broad blue
mean
MOTORING
moderate
my
places that
it
we have been
voice, for
so long in far-away
never occurs to
But the
stand.
THE BALKANS
IN
unconsciously apologize.
*'It is
my com-
On
it
has
all
was
like
looking
down on a
My
it
to the ''brilliancy
were of
250
CHAPTER XXIV
MOSTAR TO SARAJEVO
Alt/HEN we
induce
finally
Madame
it is still
latticed
window
veil.
in
the Turkish
we catch a glimpse of
In the Moslem ceme-
and
Anne's lace."
bloom
The hedges
scarlet poppies
on the
and
over our
in
the
"
Queen
we cross
snowy Velez
east.
with
peasant
woman
firewood descends
Later we meet an
twirling a carved
spindle of
yellow,
black, white,
and brown,
tantalizing variety.
feet
251
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
As we
their
is
even,
new
to
return to
"The name,
us.
in
a grieved
tone.
This
is
rehgious
what he says
in substance
sect
southern
the
among
this
The Bogomiles
Slavs,
the
against
in
who,
Roman
are a
the
Catholic
kind of Protestantism.
At
first
they were protected both in Servia and Bosnia, and the faith
made
Zara.
turies
as late as 1876
refuge in
it is
Ragusa from
Little is really
Herzegovina.
their faith
is
known
Popovo
in the
In various parts of
rude
carvings,
and
in the
museum
at
One
of these
and a
is
sculptured sides.
It is
and
with elaborately
or Bogomile bishop.
About
sixteen
kilometers from
right.
The
fig,
the
>
AN IXTKRESTIXG CROUP
IX
MOSTAR TO SARAJEVO
green torrent rushes
down a
the Narenta.
"That must be
siast,
"now we
The
strata of
accentu-
Our own
we
see a
grows
valley
We
memorial
cross,
wrung from
the sky
in
at
is
a touch,
but
is
it
built
A strange conglomerate
crumble
is
if
it
as hard as iron.
would
Against
Madonna and
Child
hue
How
manner
of strange
brown
and exchange
is
all
its
fantastic
we have
On
Beside us
mountain
wall and flows under the road, falling into the Narenta
some
Now
Alp ap-
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
The
ful scene!
It is
a beauti-
new
gr^'i are
Jablanica, and
here
"It
but
It is
is
we
prefer
"God's out-of-doors."
When
We
the chickens,
we even
who could
for a
come down
and
moment
we
feed
think the
to our jesta
is
that
Our
black coffee
is
which
Out
long to reproduce.
"How
is
made without
me back
my
to
dolls filled
different the
of deference to foreign
sugar,
and served
Herzegovina
just
is
from Dalmatia or
Montenegro," muses the Gentle Lady. "One would suppose that mountains and rocky precipices would have a
254
MOSTAR TO SARAJEVO
close resemblance to
all
soft,
"I suppose
''It
siast,
places,
up
the hillsides
warm brown."
this is
is
it?"
is n't
we have
''This afternoon
"3172
when
moon; while
feet."
"How
"Only 665
"Well, we
feet."
will
what
us hope
grades are
the
certainly
there
of
is
not
it
behind us.
is
Let
steep
smooth."
highest of spirits.
and we
now foaming
grateful
shade of
the
green
bend
in the river
"Prozor"
"That
torrent,
clinging to the
hillside,
with
on an excel-
start off
we come,
spray,
at length, to
a sharp
in Latin characters.
is
from Sarajevo.
"We
up
could take
the
Rama
valley,"
by returning here
They say the scenery is very fine. But
25s
it
MOTORING
there
another shorter
is
THE BALKANS
IN
joining
road at Vakuf."
this
We
and follow
it,
level spot
n't
On
we
we come
hills,
This
other side.
the Herzegovina
governor, and
is
through the
and Bosnia,
now
rounding peaks.
on the
a Turkish
We
thronged
glide
bazaar
As we
"Wamung"
is
pass under
in
official
Turkish,
language,
German.
The Trescanica
rent soon
;
the road
it
is
we
is
cross
a beautiful tumbling mountain torand begin to climb the Ivan Pass. Here
is
it,
bit stony
trifle
steep, but
motor car
rebel.
shepherd lad
upon
As we stop
at a convenient
is
cascade, a
playing on
his lute;
MOSTAR TO SARAJEVO
the strain
is
mountain
glen.
exquisitely melodious,
An
smile, has
come up
she walks.
We
is
very
call,
and she
I ask her
appreciation.
in the silent
woman,
indicate
musical shepherd
she
old
and re-echoes
much amused,
the
is
whether
in
may take
"I
am
so glad that
we have
the Enthusiast.
As we go
of the rising
moon.
The
it
we look back
the white half
shades us for a
hillside
by lightning or
"Oh, look!"
cries the
Gentle Lady.
wonderful
majesty
room
of
cliffs
outline,
extends
the
Alp!
Prenj
is
just
the Trescanica
chestnuts,
high-lying valley.
Passing a tumble-down
It is
257
Bradina.
mill,
we
cross
MOTORING
The
cherry-trees are in
never saw
They
THE BALKANS
such enormous ones
blossom,
IN
grow
and
As we
alders.
climb, the
full
The
hills
rippling stream
wonder
are forgotten in
at the
we
3172
feet,
chang-
fields of
or "961
M,"
"This
is
How
Asiatic, indeed.
and the
is
as
we
slide
A new
my
"It
is
attention
Igman
is
Planina,
distracted
by
is
We
whirl
feet
"It must be
through."
through
Rastelica,
superb view.
258
"It
MOSTAR TO SARAJEVO
we are coming nearer," says the
Igman again,
is
Leader.
above the
on
the
snowy summits
fruitful fields!
Lepenica
hfts its
it
is
its
rough,
we come
tents, bonfires,
to Pazaric,
and swarm
Bosnia
Europe.
and
is
for
As
forests
far as
mount
we can
snow
line;
we
are enter-
ing the Bosna valley and soon cross and recross one of
tributaries, the Zujevina.
its
past the inn of Elrizanje, where the road leads off to Jajce,
to
all
these
which belongs
After crossing the Bosna, we get a charm-
its
difference,
group of summer
ful
hotels,
How heavenly it
seems to find a
fine hotel
away from
the
This sulphur
spring which here bubbles up from the earth at a temperature of 136 degrees Fahrenheit was well known even in
259
city!
MOTORING
Roman
THE BALKANS
IN
and nightingales
I stay,"
The
quoth
fill
the
air
still
with music.
''Here, too,
my Lady
we motor
to Sarajevo for a
even in
road
is
Sarajevo at
first
sight
much
use,
disappointingly modern.
is
During
much
"But
The
the
museum,"
Gentle
I cry, ''that
Lady and
I wait
should be interesting."
office in
a strip
successful
door.
It
Rarely has a
flights of stairs to
museum appeared
to
me
a hospitable
so enticing.
Cool and clean and quiet, the change from the sizzling
streets is in itself
of peasants
treat.
The
Each form
life-like,
and
stufs, the
entertaining,
and
instructive
collection
of
MOSTAR TO SARAJEVO
and carved spindles; repousse silver-handled blunderbusses,
swords, and knives; wooden cups, scythe-handles, and whetting cases, rich in native carving; various household utensils
There
is
life
of the people
is
it
mush-
labelled;
is difficult
hunger drives us to the hotel ^ov luncheon, and afterward we rest for an hour in the very hottest part of the day.
until
we
bit
it
must be
The sun
feels
we
start out to
"There
Our
of picturesque
men.
away from
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
dark
interior of
many
pillars
upon the
its
The
wall.
small
its
gilded iconostas,
forcibly
of
Russia.
We
new town
visit
hall,
is
am
street scenes.
is
in the
One mer-
selling cherries
of fruit,
lost in
curious contemplation
One bazaar
is
An open
and comfortable.
market-place
is
on the
sitting cross-legged
his turban.
carver above
floor
tailor is often at
or a shoemaker at his
last,
beneath a merchant
clothes dealers;
in a basket
his
on
man
his
by the
back and
owner
in rings
old-
all sizes
selling cornucopias of
Long-wooled
to market, the lambs carried around
Good
Shepherd.
In the grain market, too, there
color,
many
is
a wonderful play of
filled
with different
MOSTAR TO SARAJEVO
seeds and presided over by dignified peasants.
Fruit and
vegetable markets are always attractive, but here they are out
in
new
We
flee
263
CHAPTER XXV
ILIDZE
'T^HE
sun
TO JAJCE
sets this
VIA TRAVNIK
so entrancing that
we saunter out
The moonlight
to a pond, guided
frogs.
tell
We retrace
is
air
us,
brings to a garden.
Under
the
to the nightingale's
terrace,
trill,
is
the
large
to
soft whistle,
if
One morning,
window
listen
we
rub
my
What a wonderful
On
life
my
only
am
dream-
Banana
forth
blossoms,
it
is
I don't
know
what time
at
the gardeners begin their work, but at 6:30 they are in the
midst of
it,
between
full
trousers,
disappear, pos-
Every
all
watering
the flowers.
among
is
filled
A
I
by
the white
thumb-marks on
The golden
wood.
call,
and see
and
over again, and the magpies are both numerous and noisy.
The bees
of one's
to the sweets
and out
on the out-
do not
get
door to bring in
my
"Kilss die
shoes.
Hand,''''
open my
salutes some
I
as
my
woman
who changes my
even the
little girl
am
so
I
bill,
the porter
who opens
the door,
embarrassed, too, by
much and
it,
morning
I call
my own
discourtesy in accepting
're
welcome."
MOTORING
The
notices in the
and Turkish.
Slavic,
but
stations,
all
THE BALKANS
IN
Not only
in
the
German, Hungarian.
names on the railroad
full
She passed
trousers to ankle,
this after-
wooden
sabots,
full
white shirt with sleeves rolled up, and white kerchief bor-
The
and wanting
I
is
parcels-post
to send
some things
concluded to attend to
it
myself.
Surely a government
official
Slip-
to two;
leaving plenty of
the post-master
'^Kiiss die
me
for
and
to precede
critically at
him
into the
office.
there
"Oh,
yes," I
the mail
is
is
looked long
"But
He
it
was
."
no post office at D
reply, 'T am sure there is, but
distributed
office in
it
directed.
may
Wien."
be
finally
"But
"Oh!
"Yes,
not sealed."
is
it
Is that
it
on
allowed?"
better so."
is
me?"
for
it
in,
ask.
of
By
matches and
this
time three
and watches me as
room
a cupboard for
receipt book.
write
Then he walks
it.
scales
rather a
It is
relief,
Upon
home
at
way
settling
Hand,'" as he
gazing after
if
someto our
^^
Kilss die
avenue
quiet,
rises,
me
all this
Such a contrast
across the
some big
to
late afternoon,
two
we walk out
miles, to
the straight
all
stages,
nearly a pound.
alike, as the
Of course
to
the
it
makes an excuse
MOTORING
for a fine tramp,
so cool that
The
we
we
IN
THE BALKANS
it
has become
air
rapidly.
magnolias, in exquisite
mauve
tints,
the Chinese
very near us as
The
we
hotels at
Gacko
to
Mostar
is
comfortable establishment
to
He
come
is
all
curious to
the
way
to
knowledge of
to spread the
He
we
leave until
it
Bound
the right
throughout Bosnia.
for Jajce
we
by the Krisanje
undulating
hills
inn,
in the midst of
am
unaware that we are climbing, until we come to a steep descent down which we go in four loops into the valley of the
Lepenica.
times of
whitewashed
'^^^
I
1'.^..,
T^I'1<AL
J
COUXTRV
Mi )SQUK
HE PAIXIF.D MOSQUK,
XKAK
Ri
IRWMK
)M I'LJAK
a noticeable feature.
is
well cultivated
and no
rocks are visible, except, alas! upon the road; for Bosnian
carts
reaching
Here we
Kseljak.
find
many
inns,
it
We
Gromeljak.
mosque with
its
Our way
at
minaret of wood.
clings to the
river's
left.
snow; Breslovsko,
in
and
sashes,
khan,
picturesque
we
The
fences are of
woven boughs
"How
MOTORING
As we
Women
THE BALKANS
IN
men
is
fields
be that
we
It
must
hills
sandstone rock.
There
is
hills
only
room
in that
These
Tiny
mills are
characteristic
camera
than the
fiend,
We
last.
Orioles flash
of
by
at-
of the
adobe bricks, or
plaster.
270
we
to us, near
cross the
Lasva
A BUTTERFLY OF A MAIDE.V
(TRAVNIk)
lOMBS OF
we
see in
women and
again,
veritable
poppy bouquet.
The women
water!
How
stare fixedly at us
from beneath
their
silken hoods.
comes
into view.
castle of
According to tradition,
it
was
hill
built
by
Ban, or King, of Bosnia in the fourteenth century, and although the town has been burned many times
in its change of masters, the walls and towers of the castle
Tvertko
still
II.,
stand intact.
at the farther
It is
feel
very hot.
the
reflection
As soon as we
step
We
will just
luncheon."
The bazaar
start out.
It
all in
we
the car,
ought to
we
see.
The
street
turbaned
table;
a vender
MOTORING
some
IN
THE BALKANS
sort with a
bazaar
is
The
and
fruits are
and
bells
and odd-shaped
enough
mosque
are
Mohammedan
surmounted by a kind of
column;
The
more
attractive caught
fashion, these
tall fez
paintings on
umbrellas,
in great variety.
fierce
tilted
gravestones are
supporting the
stone
is
pillars
The
inevitable fountain
is
Travnik
running
water.
for four
hundred years
close at
was the
chief
city
of
Bosnia
government was
transferred to Sarajevo.
"Do
last
"What
going to do next?"
"Going through
thusiast
is
it
backwards, perhaps!"
are
the
we
En-
daring.
we come
Ismail Baba.
man
that
feet in
However,
we pause
it is
of the
not to
a long-haired
Holy Mohammedan,
do homage
to this
ordinary forest
little
good
enormous trunk
tomb
to the
sits
lifts its
trees.
farther along,
on the right-hand
side, in
field
five
us wistfully until
women
we
we
leave.
They
sect, the
Do
Bogomiles?
and
of the car,
us,
and long
lines
The
273
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
Beyond Goles
and we begin to
Komar
Saddle.
At the
first
we
long loop
us most of
muscular
fine
apparently
is
keen interest
fellows, with
lazily
in the
motor
car.
we
arrive at
is
is
a rack and
we
wooded
We
coast easily
managed
down
to the
when we encounter
The
miles.
a dust
the
it
is
too
The whole
Vakuf,
them
countryside
is
this pleasant
all;
is
One man,
while conduct-
all
the
more
His
in-
congruous.
traverse
its
its
reach Vakuf
full
it
is
of color
itself,
a Turkish town
village.
and
work
of nature or of mediaeval
on
its
conical
hill in
we
slip
The
its
summit
kilometers
bit of freshness,
man?
Are those
its
275
CHAPTER XXVI
JAJCE
it
how
we
en-
perfect
it
latticed balconies;
;
flight of
dusky time-worn
steps;
itself
into
shelving
and
steps
below.
falls.
still
more
mossy,
to
light
flights of
The morning
this expe-
draws us
It
rays,
was
indescribable.
falls.
How
it
falls in
sheets of
foam below
JAJCE
and on the shores of each projecting
The
spreading branches.
its
smaller streams turn into bridal veils below the tiny mills.
It
among
is
an octagonal
makes a charming
picture.
So does the
which
With
is
turret.
little
village
It
of
hillside in
a Japanese
adorable.
all that,
is
a great disappointment;
cliff
above the
no view from the rooms because the windows are too high.
The entire slope opposite has been thickly planted with
spruce below and beech above
its
many
went rapidly along the path one afternoon; the man in his
white homespun, with red fez and sash, walked as rapidly
beside him.
his
but this
277
is
the only
day
in the
MOTORING
week
THE BALKANS
IN
freedom of the
streets,
and
and sauntering
"Would you
like to visit
find
it
interesting;
my
wife can
From one
side
and a few
door
is
kitchen
first,
we
irons,
full of holes.
is
it;
black-
Taking up a
is
JAJCE
and a corner cupboard holding the beds, which are
spread on the floor at night. The woman's black cloak and
rugs,
A
after
makes her own designs and stitches, embroidering handkerchiefs, towels, and napkins in gold thread
and bright silks for her trousseau," translates our guide.
instruction
she
This
is
both
sides.
''
the
How old
is
"Vedigia.
she
What
is
her
name ?"
She
know.
they
They keep no account
their age.
I ask.
on
alike
is
a daughter."
woman
appears, bare-
on her
footed,
and dressed
head
a tiny red cap sewn with gold sequins and seed pearls.
*'She
is
is
who
girl
been dead
six
months."
They
Her
all
father,
is
little
priest,
has
her
if
we do
ourselves.
Turkish
women comb
their hair
young
girl
oftener!
The
it
it
did.
to look at
it
thousands of poor
phere of ignorance.
man
women
We
shiver, as
279
we come away,
at the
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
religion
women
One evening,
it
may be
forlorn creatures.
all
For
But
we
walked around the tiny gallery of the minaret and to the four
winds of heaven sent forth his plea for prayer. The voice
was strong and young and vibrant with feeling. In the
distance a deeper tone
of
city
and drank
in the exquisite
from
my
casement
twitter,
mad
revelry of song
it
seemed un-
When do
all
all
day and
we motored along
Jajce.
Here we stopp-d
at
tea,
JAJCE
cool,
so delicious, that
Men
moored
in their cage
we determined
in
bit
on the green water. Gradually the twilight deepened, and through its shadows we motored back to Jajce.
That evening the great waterfall was to be illuminated
of color
for us.
but
do
it," said
level,
it
it
will
amount
to anything,
the Leader.
up on the other
side, to
Here
we
Soon a great
ing waterfall,
Silent figures
There
is
which was
not
view
is
vantage-point
river.
much
last
to see
however, the
city, river,
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
Near
what
is
the
campanile of
St.
Luke
With
I
is
the entrance to
visions of the
hesitated to go
Roman
down
the
steep,
down
The dome,
and
with remarkable
No
hewn.
date
skill.
is
Beneath
is
whom
after
done
arms
in the
of that
Hrvoja
market-place
at
down
the
church.
The
in
Alas!
we were
fol-
The
air
282
was so
stifling that I
could
JAJCE
not stay within six feet of the entrance, for
issued in
it
great, heated
all
appearance, even
if
made
of wool.
men unwound
left
shoulder.
made an
around the
After
altar
on
service
in
He
1493.
who was
lies
them around
king of Bosnia,
As they came
heads again.
their
entirely
a prayer.
Tomase witch,
We
the last
by the Turks
above a wooden slab
in a glass coffin
streets,
we came
would
I scarcely
had time
and
to look
was
so busy turning
my
spool,
subject
still
women
more on an equality with the men, and certainly they were openly admired by them in many cases.
A boy selling doughnuts strung on a stick called his wares
in sweet, minor tones.
Some girls were buying shoes, others
seemed
to be
cloth.
283
MOTORING
IN
THE BALKANS
oval silver
the Greek
Church
those of the
heads.
jacket,
let their
Roman wound
hair
hang
and a
fitted
classes.
close black
with dark red, tight below the knee and opening over the
trim shoe;
The
older
fez jauntily,
men
turbans.
"I
hotel
do
am
so tired and so
warm
and
284
let's
and
go back
to the
"rested" during
CHAPTER XXVII
JAJCE
TO BANJALUKA ON TO BOSNISCH-NOVI
""DANJALUKA,"
"What an
''Like
me
fine
repeats the
Asiatic
They mean
to
is all."
of Jajce, with
its
At a stone
last look.
extends
the
down
From
narrow, rushing
The road
is
river.
hawthorn.
After
trees,
crossing
the
ash
is
tree
we
in its native
Two
faint
28s
specks appear
in the dis-
MOTORING
tance,
not to
IN
THE BALKANS
As we emerge a man
coat and
Many
cautiously.
The
now
precipices
it
man and
beast.
is
left
a tiny
The
elder
is
in blossom,
and masses
of
trees.
way.
Slipping
from Banjaluka
of an hour.
Gradually the
smiles
upon
Aginoselo.
we plunge
Urbas.
us,
to
Jajce
daily halts
three-quarters
cliffs
the
Close to
for
way made by
rocky bed we keep, for
following the
its
286
the rushing
there
is
no
JAJCE TO BANJALUKA
Walnuts and lindens shade us from the sun,
other space.
birds are
many
seen and heard, and above us are ever the towering crags.
We
minds
creamy
whom we
belts
in attractive
They
make up
to pass us quietly.
we did
They
say there
an inn
is
at
Krupa, but
At the end
of a
broad
valley,
another old
castle,
with
The mountain
we have
yet seen,
the Tjesno
Gorge.
is
relief
to
me
at
least
that
it is
with a feeling
we emerge from
these
soon after
and turn
clean
287
linen
in
the grateful
MOTORING
IN
What a
luka.
Do we
all.
New
That
THE BALKANS
fresh asparagus, and a cool
what awaits us
is
in
Banja-
Not
costumes on the
women
Heaven
carriages
queer country
at
the
mark
go
rattling by;
on
either
He
with delight.
is n't
could furnish.
disturbing insects
Banjaluka
is
flies
or
at least in sight.
and
nuts
is
now
in full blossom.
They
it
is
fort here,
like
an old
wall.
Would
n't
comer
fortifications,
can
it
be?
We
of red fezes.
What
attire,
brilliant
scene,
evidently
game
trees, the
288
It
a conscription.
As they
of ball, or lounge
upon the
is
JAJCE TO BANJALUKA
wonderful.
to be seen,
both old.
town
in
much more
ast at
''There
is
is
no view, there
nothing to be seen.
is
There
ing trees."
"We
"If
we had come
here
first
For Banjaluka
is
ing bits
its
we should
distinctly ambitious
old
One
regime.
appreciate
it
more."
new
esque.
them!
their
However,
with
the
trial to
country
Heaven
bless
and sheepskin
coats,
people,
still
to be
window
or out
in the open,
to
get
an early
start
to-day, as
289
we
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
we
are
to
as
take
far
as
Prjedor
is
Indeed, the
marked
not
us.
Again the costumes differ from any that we have yet seen, a
long white tunic embroidered on the front and sleeves, belted
with a wide piece of bead work, and finished with a deep-
fringed bead
parted in
under a white
close cap,
trimmed with a
strip
cross-stitch
on
of the
head and
Some
embroidery.
and a
have deep
few have dark blue aprons, but both men and
borders of red
look
their head-kerchiefs
the
women's
women
figures
are
''to
to the
left,
Charming views
we speed
over the
The sun
is
is
damp
smooth
Under
by
en-
mountain scenery
is
JAJCE TO BANJALUKA
"What a nice little country road!" comments the Gentle
Lady, "so much more comfortable than the dusty highway."
"Have you noticed, we haven't seen a single Turkish
house since leaving Banjaluka?" asks the Enthusiast.
"This must be a Catholic section, I suppose," answers
the Gentle Lady.
The many
culverts
them askance
at
home we
;
safety.
woman's
pies flash
by
us;
The
big Catholic
Men
the
and
at
left
leads to
291
MOTORING
How
minaret
is
rises
latticed
tassels!
houses hide in
Kozorac.
high-walled enclosures
it
THE BALKANS
IN
rambling Turkish
of the
awkward
village
We
The road
is
rougher, dustier,
garb of
We
civilization.
wheat bend
The workmen,
in
seat.
Great
Young
European
colonists"
men
fields
"German
of
headed
A man standing in the middle of the road waves his handWe stop and the Leader gets out to
kerchief frantically.
A small bridge is down and we must ford the
investigate.
stream.
we dismount, and
while
and
I really believe
necessary
if
it
were
"Did you
notice those
the Enthusiast, as
looked as
Down the
if
we
asks
"They
\i:\K I'.AXJALl
KA
THE CAP
THE CAP
IX
IHE HACK
IX THE
FRONT
JAJCE TO BANJALUKA
"No, I didn't notice," confesses
was looking at the automobile."
At Prjedor we come
ing
it,
Lady; "I
the Gentle
town with
its
and
cross-
railroad again.
halloo for us to
them
an adjacent field where they stand patiently waiting for us to go on but the road is so narrow with ditches
on either side that the abandoned cart completely fills it.
into
They soon
Automobile Club.
move an
horses never
field.
is
low
on our
forests are
Our way
is like
right,
The sun
Green
is
grow-
hillsides
and
fields of
yellow
Huge
log rafts
on the
293
men
MOTORING
IN
THE BALKANS
stand in front with oars, and one at the back steers as the
current carries
2 94
little
CHAPTER XXVIII
LEAVING BOSNIA PLITVICA LAKES
IDOSNISCH-NOVI
is
directly north to
Una
is
so
valley via
Krupa."
That sounds most encouraging. We decide
to
follow
this road.
Generally there
yard of a mosque.
is
may be a
tall
cypress, a spreading
sycamore or linden, a huge oak or a graceful palm, according to the climate; but it is always tenderly nurtured and
well repays
its
and dappling
our admiration
clouds of dust.
turbed,
it is
is
cut short
it
"a,
motor-
comes groaning
Knowing
bed
of a
which
roller,
is
could
we do
295
its
presence
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
we
set
out merrily to
The
Una
River
is
almost un-
when
us.
We
we
feel
heads.
At the Turkish
kodak a
mill;
village of
and
just
Otoka we stop on
many men,
women.
the bridge to
Cozin en-
to
We
cross the
Una
attempt to follow
its
it
would be Kismet!
castle
come
into sight.
is
waiting here.
In
the shut-in valley, where the green slopes overlap, the heat
is
and rough.
The
peasants carry
red and blue umbrellas to keep off the sun's rays, as they
march
stolidly along.
The wooded
hillsides
grow
into gray
crags, steep
lies
>
r
4^^
i_'*M*.
-.-"?-
LEAVING BOSNIA
through a beautiful gorge, where the deep green river quietly
pursues its course between masses of rock and great forests.
new
Strange
wild
flowers,
make a mere
to
enough
cliffs
still
the road-bed
motorist weep!
is
Gradually the
on either
side.
midst.
its
On
in
it
''Probably
it
"There may be a
is
know
its
asserts
restoration,"
history.
Leader.
the
Is
it
On
our
left
the
The
good.
hotel at Bihac
What
is
vegetables,
To
be sure
on the
spotless.
it
floor,
We
is
My
marked
a day.
Mohammedan
cemetery,
MOTORING
IN
all
THE BALKANS
The
white
locust.
Bihac
is
yet quite
unaccustomed
'^
Kiiss die
In the
men
Hand^
first
ride
little
Three
two men,
The
fez.
From a
sit
the
women.
my
and as he saunters
cow
The country
already deafening
by
siren in
same gate
to
my window
add
to their
only the
vain,
finally penetrates
sharp,
through
that racket.
gradual ascent.
up which
Herds of
is
in the early
298
LEAVING BOSNIA
meadows
the way.
line
Descending to
climb again into a higher, but
men
still
wooded
hills,
a new building
we come
We
is filled
fortress of Zegar,
with
The
where
The women
wear dark
skirts
gilt,
over
full
"Are we going
to climb those
beside us.
"Yes,"
replies
the
Leader,
"but
at
a point
lower
down."
We
courteous greeting.
Past Baljevac
mountain
village
we
fly,
of log houses,
it
is
a typical
sometimes whitewashed,
Turning a corner
pretty scene.
half-dozen
we come upon a
in
a circle are
woman
with a
MOTORING
sieve
is
THE BALKANS
IN
kneeling; an old
dame
on walled fences
to bleach.
men seems
the
and no deep
to
Near
we ascend; that
The prevalent
"U
there
is,
dress of
less coat,
ruts.
marked
We
men wear no
we
belts.
Birds
and larches;
and women are
among
Men
Priboj
down with
the knee
itself is
twenty-two hundred
feet
above the
sea,
"Now we
And
down
to Gospic,
we turn
right,
still
to the
keep to
and
of
waving grain.
the way, and a large Catholic cemetery
at the
edge of the
forest.
The bushes
300
is
beautifully placed
ONE OF
LEAVING BOSNIA
Are
As we near our
my
breath in rapture!
were anywhere
else
Here
feel
above sea
level,
two thousand
connected by
falls
and the
The
home
air
of a different
hills.
It is
and
hue
but conve-
rise to points of
a bird's Paradise,
too,
Here seems
wonderfully varied.
flora is
to be the
columbines of a marvel-
lous hue; centaurea, not only the bachelor's button, but the
fringed ones with the dark red centres;
many
shades
of the valley;
violets, of course,
and lupines
pink starry
lilies
anemones
al-
of astonish-
MOTORING
self-heal,
tufts
yellow^
THE BALKANS
IN
of the
and the
anthyllis
the gay
l^ird's-foot
trefoil,
own pink
polygonum
names perhaps
7najantheum
its
Patient
which has
Dock
is
or two-leaved
is
fourteen
lily
the
the plantago
Think
media,
of a plantain
Here
a joy to behold.
is
a thrifty blue-branching
leaves;
English
Canada May-flower;
being desirable!
variety
bistorta,
hi folium,
with
ragged-robin
fine-cut silvery
wax
plant
the
;
the
meadow
the
yellow
lady's-slipper
in
abundance, the showy orchids and the delicate green habenaria orbiculata, an odd little nodding flower rising from its
whorl of leaves
like
the
pogonia
and, queerest of
all,
verticillata,
pink
the
dainty
military orchis,
the
They
are
tion.
One morning,
as
we
sit
birch-trees framing
feet
I
ji
LEAVING BOSNIA
"What do you
feet
square?"
Lowering
his eyes
laugh outright!
had
"Well,
my comsee
men
"Anything else?"
"They
aren't pretty at
of exquisite
They look
all.
brown
bugs crawling up the stem!" but that they are extraordinary he has to acknowledge.
Strangest of
if
lie
a velvety
rather
contrast
to
the
hotel, in
surrounding wilderness.
MOTORING
tenaciously to their
THE BALKANS
but we are hardly
mother-tongue
IN
room
the
notifications, the
it
All
here.
tables,
The
is
like
steward
it
tastes
satisfies us.
The
is
who even
under-
The bath-houses
that
if
dive
to
under
wooden
the
it
but
partition;
is
necessary
the
crystal
appreciative souls.
Later on a gypsy
boiler,
not
at
all
fire
a romantic object,
stood
in their brilliant
upon
it;
gowns, made a
my
trees.
heard a haunting
in the distance.
304
LEAVING BOSNIA
yellow and white kerchiefs, and their red caps shone in the
last
minor key, but full of joy and cheer; and they walked with
zest and rapidity, not betraying the least fatigue after the
day's task. As one group passed, another took up the song,
305
CHAPTER XXIX
TO AGRAM AND MARBURG
TT
leave the roaring falls and tumbling cascades, the birds and
wild
the
flowers,
forest,
glorious
and
turn our
faces
Over rocky
hills
passing the road to Saborski and taking the one to the right
for Dreznik,
we
Korana River on
follow the
The road
is
its
way from
river;
is
however
steep,
is
carefully cultivated
Dreznik.
At times we ride
in the grateful
trees,
beats
down upon
Near
it
is
shade of big
unmercifully.
the cross-road
to
by.
cemetery on a
hill,
with
many
306
curious
wooden
crosses;
of the
changing scene.
At one of the scattered farmhouses beyond Rakovica,
swiftly
break their
five
fast
for
it is
and they
wonder they have
half-past nine
No
meals a day!
stone curbing
makes a background
for
by
a group of children;
little girls
"What
a charming picture!"
hilltops
we come
we
to the
Korana River
Here, again,
backs and
women
men
its
making a
now
again,
swollen
peculiar greenish-blue
its
feet
below.
ruined castle,
we
cross
down
in flower,
is
where oxen,
in
teams of
on the way
and the bracken
left
or acres of
brown earth
is
a rather
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
though
not the
it is
dumb
animals
who
are afraid
it is
the
Enthusiast;
the
literally
How
or
it
wash a
dish!
As we
board," exclaims
festive
fly
a loaf of bread.
it,
have
to
to set
a table
at Blagaj,
ous
yell,
Beyond Veljun, we
glimpses of a gypsy
coast
fluttering handkerchiefs.
down a
camp by
long straight
the wayside,
hill,
with
more elaborate
are
bound
for
assure us that
framed
we
in a small square
window
as
we
smiling face
is
Do
you
realize that
we have
n't seen
a single so-called
"Do
you suppose
"
fly
across our
flock of those
and
path,
we can
meadows with
tall
nodding hare-bells and yellow iris; the scarlet poppies undulating in the wheat; the brook bordered with the American
308
we come
Korana
splashing in a mill-pond
is
fill
bare and dusty, rough and shadeless, and the air fright-
Over a small
fully hot.
pass,
goats,
and
cattle
back
to the country.
In carts and on
apparently unmindful
the gayly dressed
about
intense heat of noonday, go
of the
natives,
their affairs.
stolidly
Some
of the
women
foot,
wear a heart-shaped
sort
of
all
and
ensemble
is
How
chamber
in the
this
the peace
crowded
and coolness
We
of
that
upper
the
landlord,
"has
the shaded
or twice I
tout
hotel!
two weeks.
lasted for
the
striking.
grateful
"Yes,
From
most
cross-stitch,
309
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
itself;
we
thirty-six miles
Here
Agram, only
away.
Oriental-looking shoe market, over the
the
Through
and then
is
we
way
broad,
is
if
country charming.
and often
to stop;
beside us,
a swamp,
't
is
but the
iris;
A company
if
filled
fields of grain
a grove, brilliant
No
wings.
cowards, they!
Here
barsko.
cross,
beyond the
a compactly
On
we
Petasse, small
many
leaving Jastrebarsko
built,
vil-
side road
comfortable
little
town,
shops.
we descend
into a
woodsy
glen,
hills.
overcast
enough
we can
discern
310
-^^
-1^
r floPIl
A BOSXIAX MILL
i
m
THE CHURCH Of
ST.
MARK, AGRAM
all
worn and rough and this one is no exception but deep red
peonies bloom in cottage gardens the hedges are white with
;
We
we
are in Zagreb, or
Agram, as
for-
it.
an attractive
city
a characteristic
we
feast
River.
his
tire,
tire is for
him.
The
Yes, this
bill
having
been paid, the obliging postman carries the heavy ring upstairs to our apartment and we again laud the convenience
of the parcels-post.
is
city.
retains
some
flavor of antiquity,
tiles
outlining the
Near here
arms
is
St.
Mark
has a
of the province,
3"
is
MOTORING
the
fifteenth
THE BALKANS
IN
the
archbishop,
Close by
is
with round
spires
restored
the fortress-like
towers on each
corner.
The Croatians
In-
sity, its
Science
being
Museum, an
Academy
of
The
fine theatre,
is
is
are
understood.
all
in the
Although
at present
alien
races can.
to
is
walk
all
Small wonder,
perhaps,
if
homeward
jaunt.
We
Rl???"*
.I*
THE
-MARKE'i-PLACE, ACIRA.M
CROATIAN COUXTRVWOMEX
A CROAIIAX PEASANT
of this failing
good-natured Croatian
is
and were
relaxation.
It is
very hot in
there
is
little
the north;
so
after
tiles,
huge
them
our
are
for sale,
last
Many
letters.
girl
perhaps,
for at
picturesque market.
brilliant
Samobor
preparing
itself
we saw
and beads!
Passing
to Bre-
now we have
The
is
road, however,
much
better,
it
ing spirits.
offers us
By
the chdteau of
Rann
we
MOTORING
three round towers
THE BALKANS
IN
and vine-draped
our
jagade, attracts
admiration.
At Gurkfeldt,
one
This
which
river,
of lumber,
Neustein
is
to the right
rises
is
guided by
on a height
men
between
still,
on the
Croatia,
with picturesque
either end.
at
at the right
in the course of
left
Schloss
the
bank
is
Hottemesch with
some
of the wild
"This
is
is
hue
of heaven,
overpowering.
It is
Madame
a sort of glorified
or occasionally running
and
up
to the
door of a farmhouse;
foot-
by open windows
We
Romerbad.
speed
haymows
others have
it.
we
"onion"
crucifixes;
river,
on our
right,
How
resorts!
Here
at Kaiser
marked
in the forest;
climb, the
and
Humberg (1920
if
one
is
many
paths are
gonkeep,
still
guarding a crumbling
castle.
It is the ruins
ies
evidence of
its
great age.
river paths,
charm
Its
it
bears no
lies in its
54),
mammoth
beautiful environs,
Our luncheon
is
its
served
offered
MOTORING
"My
Baedeker has
I venture to reply
IN
lots
when
THE BALKANS
more
its
in
fat,
it
give
the other
frankly reply;
sation ends.
not
dusty
highway,
bound
Gonobitz.
for
Passing
near green
forest,
following
hills swiftly
become blue
in the distance
beyond
We
get
between
We
shining
through
Wochau
with
its
we
is
and enter
peak of St. Urban,
Marburg through a double row of Lombardy poplars.
beneath
the
isolated
316
CHAPTER XXX
MARBURG GRATZ THE SEMMERING
""^JOW
that
we have
is
poring over
for sights
''I
think
it
would be
real nice
if
you could find a little inn by a small river with trees all about
it; a clean, quiet place, where there will be no one but ourselves and, of course,
in
"And
the
to
shut
"Well,
think
we
shall be far
more apt
to encounter
my
"What we
really
want
is
a great
cathedral,
a splendid
night
we
317
will
famous
be up in the mountains,
MOTORING
won't
wc?" asked
his
THE BALKANS
IN
companion, with an
air of putting
wc
And
was a twinkle
there
told of ''sights" to
Church
bells
will stop at
Gratz
luncheon."
for
be seen.
woke me
sound of moving footsteps on the flagged streets, and rushing to the window I witnessed a bit of mediaeval life, very
streets of
Marburg, chanting
in unison.
"What
"It
is
is
is
little
Monday, they
will
be going on
maid.
my ignorant questionings.
On the broad river Drau,
all this
And
"To-day
week."
waving green
for its
market-place retains
Stadt-Park, with
seems a
its
charm
The
quaint
its
of age
lined
city's use.
with apple-trees
and
growth
THE
ILICA, AC.RA.M
A CROATIAN' HARNESS
THE PROCESSION'
MARBURG
MARBURG-GRATZ
of
low
young
The temperature
shade.
so
is
hills,
tiled
perfect,
sunshine
but cool
that once
waterproof dusters.
air,
The
shrines are
Crossing the Mur, we stop to kodak an attractive seventeenth century chateau, with an adjacent chapel, and get
our
first
resist culling
an armful of wild
purple
ant;
all
sprinkled through
soft air.
abund-
daisies,
It is difhcult to
tall
straight road
is
Mur
and
along,
this
we
to
gust, until
"On
its trail
esting
this plain
in dis-
found
we slow down
To
Roman
city,
Flavium
inscriptions.
It
might be
inter-
"
But our persistent silence puts a damper upon this suggestion and we proceed up the valley of the Mur, climb
319
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
Wildon.
the
Up
its
one steep
women
are
inscribed so all
iches
Heim,"
them stand
The
spading.
in
we mount,
street
hills
summer
resort of
down
sliding
to
men and
quaint legends
tall poles,
banner.
Are these
last
in
F.
J.
S.
1879
I.
H.
S.
show goes by us the camel looks his accustomed weary self and quite disdains our noisy flight; the
monkeys make faces and chatter from their cage; but evitravelling
company
of artillery
is
the cap-
ital of
is
a cheer-
ful
and
attractive
little
city
might be
it has enough "sights" to
interest
am
sure one
"Hotel Elephant";
also
at least.
we had
frankly
and we refused
to be
MARBURG GR AT Z
beguiled into
museums and
The
"wonderful views."
for
shelter of the
satisfied
and
shady terrace
us completely; only
untiring,
modern
city hall
and museum, a
six-
as
was
it
at that time
Zeughaus,
and
filled
done
in 1500,
Italian
work
and
is
T Trionfi.'"
one in the
from Petrarch's
When
"Adjoining
"There
Museum Joanneum
are
two
we almost
libraries, also,
volumes.
is
a Technical College;
in the Historical
the double
his wife.
of the building
is
art industries."
By this
time
we were
"
From
the
MOTORING
Schlossberg the view
tions,
is
THE BALKANS
IN
fortifica-
a garrison of
five
"I read
"You
hill,
as
we
to Gratz,
is
Madame
cool," assented
Content.
"Now
ast, as
we
for the
mountains!" quoth,
leave Gratz,
bound
are raking
Semmering. Almost
where, on this twenty-
for the
May, women
hay
in
sunny
we
lies
fields.
Long
of the country
under the
apple-trees.
We
meet
Beyond Peggau
insertions,
the road
is
collar.
Not
so,
We
forest,
with
its
enter Frohnleiten
is
it
a charm-
if^
-^M
AT THE SEMMERIXG
MARBURG GRATZ
ing
little
resort,
stein
looms on our
right.
we look
Amer-
ican's chateau,''^
views
down
Above Pernegg
slopes shut us in
the
Mur.
and
called the
Kornmesser-Haus.
Mur and
leave
it,
we come
hill
brink.
We
find at
Gratz
11 35 feet
feet.
The
valley
is
MOTORING
still
THE BALKANS
IN
hills,
and a
Queer
yellow streaks
the
We
The
again.
the railroad
The
Semmering.
is
below us as we leave
final
last steep
(3520
Do
Semmering Pass
feet).
Do
to ?
gayly,
and
ining?
As
flowers
nod more
is
fragrance of
do the wild
the air
I lean
from
wonderful prospect,
Far
my
cannot
below the piled-up thundercaps, I can just distinguish a winding stream amid low
that way lies Vienna and our morrow's
grassy hillocks;
questions.
in the distance,
journeyings.
If
"Do
live
MARBURG-GRATZ
Dalmatia?" asked the Gentle Lady that evening, as she
idly turned the leaves of her illustrated diary.
"Indeed,
remember
of the Herzegovina
only about
is
six
"Just think,
Trieste"
left
his notebook,
"and have
stopped in 35 towns."
first
to your
Good
I fancied,
than the mass of the Morlacchi, but think of the Montenegrin uniforms at Cetinje!"
"And
floated
"And
And
so
first
How
scene.
If
of
them!
Perhaps that
he ought to
"Are you
have
many hundreds
feel richly
forgetting the
extraordinary landscapes
we
upon?"
corrected
Surely
MOTORING
THE BALKANS
IN
Lovcen
"
into
"
"
;
no one
of
them have
filled
to
I forgotten,
compare people
in art.
My
with pictures.
nor
brain
see
my kodak
the
to a hot bazaar;
the
way
splendid
Travnik,
coffee;
a roaring river."
We
Each
fascinating
satisfaction
we
this
motor
trip in the
western Balkans
over the highways of Dalmatia and Montenegro, the Herzegovina, and Bosnia one continuous delight.
The End
326
INDEX
INDEX
Bosnia and the Herzegovina annexed to, 225; improvements under
rule of, 226, 260; Gratz defended by,
322
Austria, Hotel, Metkovic, 136
Austrian admiralty, 105
Austrian Automobile Club run, 235-
Agram,
Agram
45. 47
Alban Hills, 20
Albania, 77, 129, 166, 200, 209, 228
Albanian Alps, 209
Albanian Colony, 77
Albanian costume, 202
Albion, leader of the Lombards, 30
Almissa, 128
Almissa, bay of, 126
Almissan corsairs, 126
Alpine chalets, houses which resemble,
258
America, what
54, 131, 219
it
means
21
124,
190,
296,
Begovich,
on meeting motor
125,
191,
127,
134,
195,
196,
177,
198,
179,
287,
180,
293,
308, 320
Antivari, 204
Apennines, the, 21
Apothecary shop
Ragusa, 150
Mehmed, pasha
of Albania,
founded
in
1307,
Aqueduct
of,
Baccari (Bakar), 40
Badua, 196
Baedeker's guide, 21, 82, 183
Bakar, 40
Baljevac, 299
Balkan Provinces future "happy hunt-
B
Babindub, 64
to natives, 42,
238, 293
Austrian city, Trieste an, 21
Avars, the, 30, 85, 117, 179
Avtovac, 231
168, 169;
Belgrade, 285
"Belle Vista," Gravosa, 144
Bells rung at unusual hours, 108
Benedictine abbey of San Giorgio, 193
Benedictine refuge, Bua, 102
Benkovac, 20, 81, 82
Berlin, treaty of, 204
Biagio, St., patron saint of Ragusa, 149,
152
Biba, 81
Bihac, 295-298
Bilek, 227, 229
Biljane, 80
Biljardo, old palace, Cetinje, 203
Birds, fearless, 25, 26, 32
Bjelalovac, 269
Bjelasnica, mountain range of, 256
329
INDEX
Black Mountains, 204, 211
Black Sea, 258
"Black Wallachs" ("Mauro Vlach")
the Morlacchi, 68
Bocche
traditions,
251,
Bokhara, 285
Bootjacks on chairs, 35, 36
Boraja, the, 95
Borak, Mt., 126
Borgo Erizzo,
Bucharest, 285
di Cattaro,
77, 81
Borovoci-Novasela, 135
263, 267
Cagli, 21
Cairo, 225, 248
Cambio
Trail, loi
330
INDEX
Cetinje, 171, 188, 189, 200-203, 205209, 211, 219, 325
Charles Robert, King of Hungary, 83
no. III
Christian village house, type of, 259
"Christ's^Thorn," 213
Cikalovac, 291
ince,
of,
Cilipi, 180
Dabar, 51
Cisasitch, 51
Civita Castellana, fortress of, 21
founded by,
Cilli
315
Clissa, 48, 119
Clissa, fortress of,
116,
118,
122,
124
Comacines,
71
314, 315
Ciovo, see Bua, island of
Cippico, Cariolanus, 103
Cilli,
Claudius, Emperor,
in,
284
the, 112
Communale
modations
in,
75;
much
to surprise
in, 76;
extremes
34,
51. 53. 56, 66, 68-70, 85, 90, 99, 100,
106, 137, 140, 141, 147, 156, 157,
166, 177, 178, 198, 20I, 202, 206,
226, 228, 229, 235, 242, 243, 246,
247, 249, 250, 260, 265, 266, 277,
283, 284, 287-290, 296, 299, 300, 306,
308,309,312,313 325
ital of,
Costumes, native,
23,
30,
31,
t,t
under Count of
Creches, Italian, 22
74, 78;
Bribir, 83;
33^
in,
129;
INDEX
and
interior,
Elizabeth, Queen of
Emilia, Via, 21
Empoli, 20
(1377), 71
England, maritime
nico, 90
Epidaurus Sea, 220
Epidaurus (Zara Vecchia), 172
Erizzo, Count, 77
Hungary
Eugene, Viceroy of
Italy, 129
Asiatic
"F.
moun-
Aque-
duct
Diocletian's Palace, Spalato, 105, 109III, 113, 117, 122
"Distances measured by time," 32
Djett bishop, 252
J. I.,"
Farasina. Canale
Dobrota, 172
Dogonovci, 275
Dolac, 270
Dolce Grj, native dessert, 85
Dolmali, 40
Dolomite formation near Grabovica,
di,
31
Ferdinand of Austria, 48
Figures
Roman
City,
319
253
Fojnica, 237
Fojnica River, 269
Foligno, 19
Forestry plans of Dalmatian government, 167
Fossa, Zara, 78
Fracasso, Francisco, tablet to honor of,
60
Dragu, 39
285, 325
Franciscan church, Mostar, 248, 249
Franciscan cloister, Ragusa, 150
Franciscan Farmacia, apothecary shop
founded in 1307, Ragusa, 150
Franciscan monastery, Bua, 102
Frangipani, the 40, 41, 43, 48
Duare, 128
Dubac, 222
Dubrovnik (Ragusa), 167
Dulcigno, 204
Duomo, Pisa, 70
Duomo, Ragusa,
Franks
at Zara, 73
Frederic III., Emperor, 321
French highways, 19, 103, 160
Durazzo, 172
Dusina, 134
French
in Clissa, 119;
in Zara, 74
E
Earthquakes
outlined in stones on
at
in Gratz, 322;
Ragusa, 169
332
INDEX
H
Gabiniana, Via, ii8
Gacka River, 54
Gacko, 225, 226, 230-237, 268, 326
Gacko, plain of, 227, 230
Galovac, Lake of, 302
Hadzici, sawmills
Hafendorf, 323
Harem,
"Game"
Game on
Games,
German
birds in Italy, 26
Narenta River, 135
children's, 242
colonists near Kozorac, Bos-
278, 279
Harness, native, 116, 227
Henderson, Major, quoted, 247
Henna-stained hair, 249
Herzegovina, the, no road maps to,
language, use
of,
256, 266
Hodiije, 139
Hohenegg, 316
castle of, 324
Hohlbach's, Mrs., book on Dalmatia, 20
Holland, maritime rival of Ragusa, 169
Hohenwang,
Horses,
30,
49. 5I' 56, 58, 62, 84, 177, 179, 180,
190, 191, 195, 196, 198, 287, 293, 296,
308
Grabok Saddle,
238, 240
Grabovac, 128
Grabovica, 253
Grahovo, battle of, 210
Gran Kapella range of Croatian moun-
Hum,
243
315
Hungarian Lloyd steamer, 77, 78
the,
Hungary, seaport
commerce
74;
and, 167;
tains, 29
Humberg,
27;,
nia, 292
German
259
of,
visit to a,
168, 170;
Icici,
of,
relations of
Ragusa and,
Croatia a province
of,
312
32
333
INDEX
India, custom of wearing betelnut
in,
peninsula
68
Italian
Kapfenburg, 323
Kapitel Stadt,
284
language
in
the
Balkans,
20,
Agram,
8i
Karl Franz University, Gratz, 321
Karlstadt (Karlovac), 63, 309
Karst, the, 43, 44, 80, 82, 128, 200, 226
Kastelj hill, 81
Kcucie, 127
Kleinwagna, 319
KIek, peninsula
Ivanica, 223
Ivanjska, 291
Klincaselo, 310
Klis (Clissa), 119
no,
112,
Zara
Jamnicka
Jurasevo Ulica, 32
K
Kainach River, 320
Kaiser Franz Josef Bad, 315
Kambelovac, Castel, see Cambio,
of,
Kraljevica, 40, 41
Krasic, 310
Krcma, 84
Krisanje inn, 268
Krivacko
Krivosije,
Zdrjelo,
pass
mountains
of,
of,
199,
211
198
Krka
at,
211
139
Castel
Kamenari,
Klanfari, 41
Jadar, see
31
Karanovac, 287
Karin Lake, 61, 63
Karin, Novigrad, and Vrana highway,
Kvarte, 56
334
INDEX
La
Lacroma,
"Maria Theresa,"
native ornament, 70
Marina, Porta, Zara, 70, 73, 74, 78
Marjan, Monte, 105, 122
Market-place, point of interest, 113
Mathias Corvinus, Hungarian king, 153
make
vege-
Ladislas of Hungary, 79
Lakes, winter, 29, 80, 135, 180
Lalla Rookh, 209
Latin nations
of
tation, 55
use of expressive
10
intonations, 113
157
23, 107
Meja, 40
Mekdolac, 63
Meleda, height
Farmacia,
"Ljecamica,
Ragusa, 150
of,
141
Metkovic,
20, 124,
Mezzo, 141
Michael, son of Prince Mirko of Montenegro, 203
Michelozzo, architect, 151
Mills, Bosnian, typical, 270
Minceta Tower, 177, 222
Mirabella, castle of, 126
Apotheke,"
Miramar, Chateau
Ljubuski, 134
Loggia, Trail, loi, 102
of,
25
Mirinovo, 143
Mirko, Prince, of Montenegro, 203
Mittendorf, 323
Mixnitz, 323
Moesia, 30
Mohammed II., 168
Lombard
invasion, 30
Louis of Hungary, 167, 191
Lovcen, Mt., 189, 193, 196, 198, 199,
211, 326
Love of nature bond between ail nations, 146
Lovrana, 34
Luc, 313,
188
134-138
Mohammedan cemeteries,
Monotony
replacing picturesqueness, 78
Lucko, 310
Luksic, Castel, see Vitturi, Castel
Lussin, 61
of,
27;
166; route into, 172,
194, 195, 204; mountains of, 180,
187, 193, 196, 223; national cap of,
198, 201
royalty alone owns auto-
Albanians
in,
Macedonia, 209
Madonna
dello
Scalpello,
pilgrimage
Mahomet
Mahomet
II.,
war
against, 103
Pasa, mosque
of,
Mostar, 245
246
Mail steamer, Zara, 77, 78
Malfi, bay of, 142, 143
335
203;
204,
209;
recognized by Powers, 204;
seaports of, 204; ruler of, 204; area
of, 204; inhabitants of, 204; Turkish
invasion of and defeat by, 210; capital
of,
211; successful tour of, 221;
differs from the Herzegovina and
Dalmatia, 254
Morinje, 172
Morlacca, the, 42
of,
of,
INDEX
Morlacchi people, 68, 78, 112, 325
Nona, 61
Morpolaca River, 82
Mosko, 227
Moslem
religion,
280
Motor
"Motor
diligence" up the
via Krupa, 295
Mravince, 123
Mrkan, rock of, 1 79
Mrzljaki, 310
Muezzin
Muggia,
Mur
call,
Una
valley
244, 280
Ogulin, 301
"Old master"
Olive
Ombla
discovered in Zara, 72
merchant, Zara, 69
286, 291
River, 143
all
N
of,
80
Castle, Zengg, 46
Names
Narenta
oil
Omarsko,
peoples, 34
Nahaj
Obed, 179
Ober-Cilli, 315
Oborgi, 274
28, 31
Nadin, Lake
Obcina, 21
252
Naro (Narenta) River, 138
Narodni Dom inn at Castelnuovo, 30
Narona, 85, 138
Nathalie, wife of Prince Mirko of Montevalley, 238,
negro, 203
Necropolis Suburbana, Salona, 118
Nehaj, Castel, see Papali, Castel
Neu-Bilek, 227
Neum, 139
Neustein, Schloss, 314
Nevesinje, 237, 238
"New woman of Turkey," 156
Newspapers, 76, 77, 266
Niagara, falls of the Krka contrasted
with, 88
Nice, 19, 268
Nicola I., Prince, of Montenegro, 202,
203
Nightingales, 246, 264, 280
Ninfa, 20
no
Orasac, 142
Orchids at Plitvica Lakes, 302
Orient, value of wells in, 44
Orlov Krs, Cetinje, 203
Orsini, Georgio, architect, 151
Orsola, Val d', 178, 220, 222
Padua,
19, 21
Palm Sunday, 29
Panhaus, Hotel, Semmering Pass, 324
Pantheon, Rome, no
Papali or Nehaj, Castel, 103
Paravia, Biblioteca, Zara, 78
33^
INDEX
Parcels-f)ost,
convenience
of,
38,
266,
Parenzo, 28
Paris, 19
Pasjak, 30
259
Pazaric',
Peggau, 322
Perasto, 77, 172, 191-193, 213
Pernegg, 323
lan-
Prozor, 255
Punta d' Ostro, 168, 178
Perusic, 56
Perusic, castle of, 82
Perzagno, 194, 213
Pesaro, 21
Petasse, 310
Peter II., Prince, mortuary
chapel
of,
211
Queen
Queretaro,
imilian
203
Petrovoselo, 300
"Pettini," Ragusa, 145
"Pettini," Ragusa Vecchia, 179
Pfannberg, ruins of, 322
Piccola Venezia, 104, 119
Piccolo della Sera, II, Trieste, 76, 77
Pichl, Schloss, 323
Piero the sea-gull, 164, 165, 170, 171,175
Pierre, Prince, of Montenegro, 207
Pietro III., archbishop of Spalato (837),
68
the,
of Italy, 203
field
fell,
25
R
Rabenstein, castle of, 322
Racice, 30
Radman Mills, 126
103
i77> 179.
266, 326
Pile, Porta,
198,
220,
222,
235,
252,
Pirano, 28, 31
Pirates, 44-46, 48, 126
Pisa, 19, 20, 70
Rakovac, 309
Rakovica, 306, 307
Rakovpotok, 310
Plat, 178
Rama
Pliny, quoted, 82
Plitvica Lakes, 54, 295, 301-306
Pliva River, 275, 276, 280
Valley, 255
Rann, 313
Rapallo, 19
Rascia, original
home
of the Morlacchi,
68
Rastelica, 258
Rattsdorf, 320
Ravenna, 19, 21
Ravljane, 54
Rector's Palace, Ragusa, 151, 168, 171
Red Sea, 264
Reichselstein, chateau of, 313
Remetinec, 311
Rialto, Venice, 244
Ricardo, Arco di, Trieste, 24
Riccardi, Palazzo, Florence, 151
Richard Cceur de Lion, tradition con-
Preloge, 316
cerning, 24
337
INDEX
Ricice River, valley of, 59
Rimini, 18, 19, 21
Risano, 172, 217
Risano, stage from, 190
Riva Vecchia, Zara, 74, 78
Riviera of Ragusa and the Bocche, 326
Riviera of the Sette Castelli, 103, 116
Riviera, the, 19, 20
Romanesque
art, fine
no
example
of,
163
Sapjane, 31
Sarajevo, 252, 255, 259-264, 270, 272,
289
Sardine- fishing, 156
Sasak, 39
Save River, 311, 313, 314
Savina, 182
Scardona, 83-87
Schlossberg, Gratz, 322
loi,
Rome, 19-21
Romerbad, 315
Scutari,
Lake
Season to
Season to
Rothelstein, precipice
323
Route from Paris to Dalmatia, 19-21
of,
visit
visit
209
Dalmatia, 18
Ragusa, 170
of, 200,
m>
Rovigno, 28
Rovigo, 21
Royalty of Montenegro, 200, 203
Rucani River, 189
Rudolf, Crown Prince, 157
Semmering,
the, 322,
i45, 151
324
S.
Servian-Croatian language, 77
Servians discard national costumes, 249
Servians founded Montenegro, 204
Sette Castelli, Riviera of the, 103, 116
Euphemia, 76
S. Michele, Ugljan,
S. Stefano de Pinis,
76
church
of, 11
Samobor, 313
Sana River, 293, 294
San Cosimato, 20
San Domenico, church of, Ragusa, 153
San Donato, Zara, 76
San Francesco, Zara, 71,72
San Georgio Maggiore, Library of,
Venice, 151
177,
222
256
Slano, 140
338
the
INDEX
Slavic
84, 121
Smilcfc, 64
Smoking by Croatian
Smokovo, 41
Stupink, 310
ladies, 41
St.
Urban, peak
of,
316
Agram, 312
Spagnuolo, Fort, 182, 218
Spalato,
18-124,
122
Spezia, 19, 20
Spincici, 31
Spital-Rettenegg, 324
"Split" (Spalato), 104, 105
Spljet (Spalato), 105
Spalato, 108
"StradaMaestra," 128
80
Temple
Spalato,
no
Tomasewitch,
Tomb
last
of Ismail
273
Tombs
Tommaseo,
339
INDEX
Trebinje, 176, 178, 187, 222, 224, 225,
227. 235,
326
Verhovo, 314
Vidouje, 138
Troglav, 230
Trpimir, King (837), 103
Trupina, native boat, 135
Tuffer's castle, 315
Turia Pass, 128, 129
"Turkey, new woman of," 156
Turkish costume, 137, 156, 157, 224,
246, 247, 284
Turkish village house, type of, 259
Turkish watch-towers, 223
Turkish women, 229, 241-243, 277279, 296, 298
Turks
Vranjic, 104
Vratnica, Mt., 269
Vratnica, mountain range of, 269
Vratnik Pass, 47, 50, 51
Trieste,
322
Turks object
to
being photographed,
228, 249
Tusilovic, 309
Tvarko
I.,
Castelnuovo, 181
Tvertko
II.,
King
Vratniku, 50
Vrgo/ac, 131-133
Vrmac, Fort, 196
Vrmac, peninsula
Vrpolje, 95, 97
of Bosnia (fourteenth
198
century), 271
of,
"Wandering of
Wart berg, 323
the tribes," 30
Ubinja, 309
Udine, 19, 21
Ugar River, 286
Ugljan, 72, 76
River, 294-297
Urbas River, 275-277, 285-288
Urbino, 19, 21
Uscocs, the, 48, 86, 169
Seas, 258
Una
fear,
V
Vakanski Vrh, 59
Vakuf, 256, 274, 275
Vallone of Risano, 217
Vecchio, Castel, 103
by
horses, 58
to
97
Wildon, 320
Wilkinson, Sir Gardner, quoted, 170
Winchester, General, 171
Windisch-Feistritz, 316
Winnowing corn in Croatia, manner of,
299, 300
Wisconsin, comparison with, 291
340
INDEX
VVochau, 316
Balkans, 140
Women as burden-bearers, 29, ^^, 42,
43, 47, 166, 199, 307
Zavorio,
engineer, 129
Zegar, fortress of, 299
Zelenika, 27, 172, 182-189, 217
Zeljeznica River, 259
Woodwork,
Zemonico, 64,
"Woman's work"
in the
mediaeval, 11
79,
80
Agram
Hotel,
Zengg
Zagvozd, 128
Zalomska River,
Vincenzo, archbishop
Zara, 77
Zrmanja River, 63
Zrnovnica, 123
Zujevina River, 259, 268
Zukici, 257
Zupa, 196
Zupa valley, 213
Zutalokva, 51
Zvironjak River, 196, 197
Zwecaj-Grad castle, 287
Zmajevich,
237, 240
Zara, 18, 57, 6i, 63-79, 81, 83, 89, 93,
128, 145, 155, 252, 325
Zara Vecchia, 81, 93, 172
Zavalje, 299
Zavic, 83
341
of
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