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Related articles
Grilling with wood as your only fuel
Smoking with wood as your only fuel
Barbecue wood suppliers
Stop soaking your wood
Pellet smokers
All about charcoal and combustion
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controllable.
Food grade pellets can be a good concentrated source of
smoke flavor on grills and smokers, and a handful or two is
usually all that is necessary for ribs or fowl.
Pellets used as fuel to fire pellet grills are mostly oak, a
stable burning wood. If they say they are hickory, they are
usually less than half hickory, a fact that does not always
appear on the label. They usually come in 10-40 pound
bags.
BBQr's Delight makes
12 flavors of pellets in
small 1/10 pound or 1
pound bags that are
100% flavor wood
including alder, apple,
cherry, hickory, orange,
pecan, and others.
Their Jack Daniel's
pellets are a mix of oak
and charcoal from oak whiskey barrels, and their Savory
Herb is oak with herbs in the blend. I love using these
products because they are easy to measure and control.
They only burn for about 20 minutes at 225F, so you must
get your meat on before the wood.
There's a pretty good forum for people who have pellet
cookers at Pelletheads.com.
Pellet chunks. Another
form of pellet is the pellet
chunk or brick, the most
notable being made by
Mojo-Bricks (right).
These are wood chips and
sawdust from the mills
compressed until they
bind. They come in a
variety of flavors. I have
had very good luck with
them on a cariety of
smokers.
Bisquettes. Bisquettes
are another variation on the compressed sawdust idea
made for the Bradley Smoker. They look like small brown
hockey pucks.
Sawdust. Sawdust can also be used for flavor, but it burns
quickly and is rarely used. There are even a few small
smokers, like the Camerons, that use smoldering sawdust.
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Smoking indoors
If you have a good exhaust system this method works well.
If you have a wimpy fan, don't even think about it.
Get a stainless roasting pan, cover the bottom with heavy
duty foil. Sprinkle sawdust on top or the Chinese tea mix
(at right). The best source of sawdust is to take a handful of
wood pellets, get them wet, and either let them air dry or
pan dry them on a low temp.
Once the sawdust or tea is done, lay a layer of foil over
them, but not all the way to the edge. This keeps drippings
from extinguishing the smoldering wood. Place a rack like a
pie cooling rack above the second layer of foil, them the
food goes on the rack, and then cover the whole shootin'
match. You can make a cover several ways.
Lay a second, identical roasting pan upside down on top,
and clamp it down with metal or wooden clothes pins.
Lay a sheet pan on top of the roasting pan and weight it
down with a sauce pan or a brick.
If the food is tall, you can fashion a lid from foil, just
crimp it tight around the edges. Foil is a good method if
you need to insert a food thermometer.
Preheat the oven to at least 350F and crank up the
exhaust.
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consumed, the other pan will have dried out and begun
smoking.
Getting the correct amounts of wood and water may take
you a few cooks to perfect, but you will figure it out. I can
tell that much about you.
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Originally all barbecue and grilling was done with logs of dried hardwood as
the fuel source.
Heat cooked the meat, and smoke from the wood and the dripping juices
landed on the meat imparting a distinctive seductive scent that is the essence
of grilling and barbecue. But it is difficult to control the heat and flavor when
cooking with logs, so today, only a few expert pitmasters cook with logs only.
Today, most barbecues use charcoal or gas to produce the heat, and they get
flavor and aroma from the addition of measured amounts of wood in the form
of chips, chunks, bisquettes, pellets, logs, or sawdust. Click here for a good
buying guide to smokers.
Hardwoods, which include fruit and nut woods, have compact cell structures,
and they are the best woods for cooking. Softwoods, like pine, fir, spruce,
redwood, hemlock, and cypress are all evergreens (coniferous trees), and they
have more air, more pungent sap, and they burn fast. They are not
recommended for cooking. We'll talk more about wood choices below.
Combustion byproducts
Logs, charcoal, gas, pellet, and electric cookers each produce tastably different
flavors because each fuel produces a unique combination of combustion
byproducts.
Electric cookers use a hot coil for heat, so there is no combustion and thus no
combustion gases. Even if you put wood chips on an electric coil, the flavor of
the smoke is vastly different, and to my palate, inferior because the food lacks
the complexity that combustion gases the other fuels produce. The secret to
good flavor is the right combustion gases plus smoke from wood.
Wood also plays a role in the color of the meat and the formation of the crust
on the meat, also called the bark. Below are two slabs of ribs with the same
spice rub but no sauce. The one on the left was cooked on a charcoal smoker.
The one on right was cooked on a gas smoker. You can see and taste the
difference.
What is combustion?
The simplified technical definition, as it applies to barbecue and grilling, is that
combustion is a the sequence of chemical reactions between materials, oxygen
and at least one other fuel, producing a change of the chemistry of the fuels,
producing heat, light, smoke, and gases. Here's how it applies in the real
world: Wood and pellets. Fresh cut hardwood has a lot of water in it, up to
50% by weight, it produces a lot of steam and off flavors during combustion,
and it takes up to 45% more energy (than charcoal or gas) to dry it out, so
most wood for cooking is hardwood that has been air dried. Dried hardwood is
rarely totally dry, perhaps 5% water. Of the remaining 95%, about 40% is
cellulose, about 40% hemicelluloses, 19% lignin, and 1% minerals. Actual
numbers will vary depending on the wood species, subspecies, age, soil,
climate, and vintage.
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What is flame
Primary combustion is the burning of oxygen and the other fuel, and
secondary combustion is the burning of the gases emitted at high temps. It is
the combustion of gases that produces flames. This consumption of gases also
produces most of the heat.
In primary combustion, heat creates gases that rise from the fuel creating
something like a gaseous bubble. The gas bubble is surrounded by air that
contains about 20% oxygen. If there is enough energy the gas ignites and
starts the process of combining its molecules with the oxygen. Where the gas
and air meet, and if all the gas is able to combine with the oxygen, a blue
flame is visible. If the gases don't burn completely, the flame glows yellow or
orange. If unburned gases escape, the bubble cools and turns into smoke.
Meanwhile, the energy from the combustion causes more gas to evaporate.
When there is too much oxygen, the flame is yellow and orange. A gas grill has
a venturi, a valve that blends the gas and oxygen like a carburetor. When
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What is smoke?
When burned thoroughly in a lab, wood produces about 8,600 BTUs per pound
of heat, about half of the mass is converted to carbon dioxide and about half
to water vapor. In the real world, wood is never burned thoroughly in a grill or
smoker. If the wood does not get enough oxygen it can still undergo primary
combustion, but not secondary. It will not burst into flame, it will smolder, and
smoldering wood produces lots of smoke and a different flavor than burning
wood. That's why ribs smoked by a fire made from logs tastes different than
ribs smoked by a fire made from charcoal, gas, or electricity.
Smoke includes as many as 100 compounds in the form of microscopic solids
including char, creosote, ash, as well as combustion gases that include carbon
monoxide, carbon dioxide, nitrogen oxides, polymers, and liquids such as
water vapor, and phenols.
To keep it simple, let's just say that smoke is made of three things,
microscopic solids, gases, and water vapor.
When they contact food they can stick to the surface and flavor it. Most of the
flavor comes from the gases, not the smoke particles, according to the
AmazingRibs.com science advisor, Dr. Greg Blonder, and the composition
of the gases depends on composition of the wood, the temperature of
combustion, and the amount of oxygen available.
Smoke from wood or charcoal for cooking can range from bluish, to white, to
gray, to yellow, brown, and even black. Blonder explains that the color
depends on the particle size and how it scatters and reflects light to our eyes.
Pale blue smoke particles are the smallest, under a micron in size, about the
size of the wavelength of light. Pure white smoke consists of larger particles, a
few microns in size, and they scatter all wavelengths in all directions. Gray
smoke contains particles large enough to actually absorb some of the light and
colors. The most desirable smoke is blue as seen coming from the smoker on
the left in the photo below by Grant Erwin in Seattle.
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Blue smoke
Blue smoke is the holy grail of low and slow pitmasters. Dr. Blonder explains
that the color depends on the particle size and how it scatters and reflects light
to our eyes. Pale blue smoke particles are the smallest, under a micron in size,
about the size of the wavelength of light. Pure white smoke consists of larger
particles, a few microns in size, and they scatter all wavelengths in all
directions. Gray and black smoke contains particles large enough to actually
absorb some of the light and colors.
Black and gray smoke happen when the fire is starving for oxygen, and they
can make bitter, sooty food tasting like an ash tray. Billowing white smoke is
common when you just start the fire, and when the fuel needs lots of oxygen.
If it doesn't get enough and if the fuel is not emitting gases for secondary
combustion, the fuel smolders and produces white smoke.
If you are cooking hot and fast, white smoke is a great way to get some smoke
flavor on the food in a hurry. But white smoke usually has a lot of
contaminants from an incomplete secondary combustion and prolonged
exposure to white smoke can still make good food, but not as good a blue
smoke.
Sterling Ball, a champion pitmaster who owns a guitar string business,
describes the art of making blue smoke as similar to tuning a guitar. "You need
control of your tools, the pit, fuel, oxygen, fire, heat, and practice." Here are
some tips on how to get blue smoke for long cooks.
Keep your pit clean. Carbon buildup, soot, and sticky grease on the inside
can create off flavors and drip on the food. Often that "flavorful" grease is
creosote. Many competition pitmasters power wash after a cookoff.
Use dry wood. Some pitmasters will even put the wood on top of their
smoker to drive off any remaining water. Some remove the bark from their
wood.
Use large chunks or logs. Don't use chips or pellets. You need something to
burn down to embers.
Build a small hot fire. You want to see flame. Hot fires burn off the
impurities that are created in an incomplete secondary combustion. That
means that you need a lot of oxygen so you want your exhaust vent open all
the way. The hot air rising through the chimney will draw in air through the
intake vent. You will probably want it open wide or close to it. Low smoldering
wood creates dirty smoke. Don't let your embers sit in ash. Keep them on a
grate above the bottom of the firebox. Knock ash off occasionally and if
necessary, remove it.
This is why high quality offset smokers, the ones that look like a big barrel on
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its side with a small barrel attached, are so popular with experienced
pitmasters. But there is a big difference between the cheap offsets at the
hardware stores and the serious pits made for competition teams and caterers.
Cheapo Offset Smokers (COS) include Brinkmann Pitmaster, Brinkmann
Smoke'N Pit Professional (a.k.a. SNPP), Char-Broil Silver Smoker, Char-Broil
American Gourmet, and especially the Char-Griller Smokin Pro. They are
nothing but headaches. Serious Offset Pits (EOS) include Horizon, Jambo,
Klose, Lang, Meadow Creek, Peoria, Pitmaker, and Yoder. They are superb
cooking tools.
Allow the pit to warm up. Start the fire at least an hour before the food
goes on. Adjust your airflow and get the temp, fire, and smoke stabilized.
Warm the walls of the cooker. It is harder to get blue smoke in cold weather.
Start the fuel on the side. If you can't get the cooker to cooperate, or if you
have temp yo-yoing up and down, start your fuel on the side and add only hot
coals. If you are cooking with wood, start burning it on the side and add only
glowing embers. If you are using charcoal, use briquets. I use a wheel barrow.
Lump is not often completely carbonized and can create more smoke than
briqs. Remember, properly burning charcoal doesn't produce much smoke.
Use good thermometers. Digitals are the best.
Practice. Do dry runs without food until you can anticipate when more fuel is
needed, how to adjust the airflow, and how to react when the smoke starts
going bad.
Cook indirect. If the meat drips on the fire, water and fat will burn and make
dirty smoke. These drippings can create flavor, especially for short fast cooks,
but for long low and slow cooks, they can create dark smoke. Use your senses.
It's hard to see the color of the smoke at night, but the smell should be sweet,
with meat and spice fragrances dominating. The smoke aromas should be faint
and seductive, perhaps like vanilla, not like a bonfire smell.
Creosote
Creosote is among the compounds in smoke and it is the Jekyll and Hyde of
smoke cooking.
On the Dr. Jekyll side, creosote contributes positively to the flavor and color of
smoked foods and acts as a preservative, among the reasons that smoking
meat was used for preservation before refrigeration.
Blonder says "Creosote is always present in charcoal or wood smoke, and a
few components of creosote (guaiacol, syringol, and phenols) are the largest
contributors to smoke flavor. No creosote, and the meat might as well have
been boiled."
On the Mr. Hyde side, "If the balance of the hundreds of chemicals in creosote
shifts, it can taste bitter rather than smoky."
What is creosote and where does it come from, and why is it two faced?
Commercial creosote is produced by distilling tars from primarily beechwood or
bituminous coal (not charcoal). Careful control of the combustion temperature,
oxygen flow, and pressure produce a wide range of aromatic oils and tars.
Creosote from coal tar is the black stuff used to preserve telephone poles and
railroad ties. Coal tar creosote is classified as a possible carcinogen. Anybody
who has a wood burning fireplace knows that creosote from logs can cling to
chimneys, clog them, and even ignite, burning down the house.
These industrial chemicals give the creosote found in barbecue smoke a bad
name. I am unable to find any research that implicates the small amounts of
creosote in barbecue with health risks.
Many cooks believe that the best smokers and grills are coated with a thick
black "seasoning" from use. Alas, much of the seasoning on the inside of a
smoker is creosote. Some of it is carbon, and some of it is just plain grease. It
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is not likely to combust, but it can vaporize or drip on the food. Many of the
best cooks powerwash the interior of their cookers regularly. For more, read
my article on grill and smoker cleaning and maintenance.
According to Blonder, "When you smoke low and slow at temperatures like
225F, many smokers require you to control the fire by damping the oxygen
supply which moves it below the ideal combustion zone, creating black smoke,
soot, and more creosote. The best smokers combust at a high temp to create
the ideal flavor profile and direct a small fraction of the smoke across the
meat.
"To control creosote, use less charcoal so you can burn it hot and more
efficiently, but the smaller number of embers will provide less heat. You will
have to replenish the coals more often, but the food will taste better and there
will be less creosote. Avoid resinous woods such as pine and cedar.
"Humidity can affect creosote production and its flavor profile because
moisture in smoke can scavenge some of the creosote compounds selectively
and then it can condense on cool meat and cool smoker walls, especially in
winter. All this means there is plenty of room for barbecue skill and
experience."
Here are other ways to avoid creosote formation:(1) Avoid resinous woods
such as pine and cedar; (2) Don't add a lot of cold meat to the smoker at
once; (3) If you are using charcoal or logs, use a small hot fire that does not
have to be stifled by closing dampers to keep the heat down; (4) Cook in
warm weather; (5) Preheat the smoker and give the walls time to warm up;
(6) Don't add a lot of cold charcoal, start it up first in a chimney; (7) If you are
cooking with wood, preheat the logs by letting them sit on the firebox or in the
cooking chamber; (8) Leave the chimney open at all times; (9) If the fire gets
too hot, don't close the dampers, open the firebox door to let out some of the
heat; (10) Check the cooking chamber temperature with a digital thermometer
at least every 30 minutes; (11) Practice, practice, practice.
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Why does the wet pad gather so much more smoke? Blonder explains that
smoke impacting the dry pad simply bounces off because there is nothing to
hold them. But the oily and wet pads are tackier. But why does the wet pad
attract more smoke than the oily pad? The answer is thermophoresis,
according to the physicist.
Thermophoresis is
a force that
moves particles
from a warm to a
cold surface. He
showed this by
placing two
smooth, dry,
glazed tiles in the
pellet smoker.
The left tile is a
control. It did not
go in the smoker
and is shown here just so we can see what it looks like before smoking. The
middle tile was warmed to 225F before being placed in the smoker, and the
right hand tile was chilled to 29F.
In the first experiment, the wet cotton pad was cooled by the evaporation of
the moisture in the pad so it was well below the temp of the others. That's why
it was smokier.
The same thing happens to meat when you put it in the smoker. If it is cold
and wet it will hold more smoke. As it warms and dries out, less smoke is
absorbed.
Enough is enough
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One of the biggest mistakes we frequently make is using too much smoke. Too
much smoke can make your meat bitter or taste like an ash tray. Smoke is like
salt. You can always add more but you can't take it out. Do not try to cook
with wood. It is too hard to control the temp and the amount of smoke. When
you become an expert, you may be able to cook with wood only, but at the
outset stick to charcoal, propane, or electricity. I cannot give you a precise
amount because each cooker is different and the amount of wood to get the
right flavor will depend on the volume of the cooking chamber, the airflow,
leaks, how often you peak, the kind of wood you use, and of course, your
preferences. You will need to experiment, but a good rule of thumb is start
experimenting with about two ounces of wood, regardless of the cut or weight.
For dense, thick cuts of meat such as pork butts for pulled pork or beef
brisket, you can double or triple the amount of smoke. If the results are not
smoky enough, you can add more wood on your next cook.
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Which wood?
Cured (dried) hardwoods with low sap are the best for barbecue, especially
fruit and nut woods. When dry they produce the best smoke. They all have
slightly different flavors, and it is impossible to describe them.
To make things complicated, there are different kinds of each wood. For
example, there's shagbark hickory, scrub hickory, pignut hickory, and red
hickory. The climate the tree is grown in can impact flavor. Texas oak tastes
different than Michigan oak. Furthermore, the amount of bark and can
significantly impact flavor, far more than the type of tree you pick. How long it
has dried and the percent water left in the wood impacts flavor and aroma.
The internet is full of guides attempting to describe the flavors of different
woods. They remind me of the florid descriptions wine lovers use. I don't find
these wood descriptions very useful. Think about it. Apple might taste one way
on pork, but will taste entirely different on beef or turkey. It's like visualizing
the color red. No problem. But when you mix it with yellow, it is vastly
different, and very different from when you mix it with blue. That said, I can
often tell the wood by the smell, but rarely can I guess it by the taste. To
make matters worse, there is no guarantee that the wood in the bag is the
wood on the label. Coffee, olive oil, and fish markets are regularly rocked by
scandals of fraudulent labeling.
Here's the best I can do based on the woods I have used. And remember, I
have judged food and wine around the world and won wine tasting
championships, and I would love nothing more than to tell you that a
particular wood has "nuances of spice with an undertone of mushrooms". I just
can't do it.
Mild (best for foods that are not heavily seasoned or sauced). Alder,
apple, cherry, grape, maple, mulberry, orange, and peach.
Strong (best for strong flavored foods with lots of spice and/or
sauce). Hickory, mesquite, oak, pecan, walnut, and whiskey barrel.
I avoid mesquite. It can be harsh, bitter, and pungent. Hickory is the tried and
true mate for pork, but some people find it too aggressive and occasionally it
can taste bitter. Fruit woods tend to impart a sweetness.
Then there are the exotic woods that I haven't tried yet: Citrus, dried citrus
peels, pistachio wood, corn cobs, nut shells, coconut shells, mango, and even
mahogany.
The choice of wood is crucial when you are using wood for both heat and
flavor, if it is your fuel. It is not very important when you are throwing a few
chips and chunks into a pile of charcoal or onto a gas grill or even on a pellet
smoker.
Bottom line: Stop obsessing over which wood to use. Pick one and stick with it
for a whiole. The quality of the meat, the spice rub, the cooking temp, the
meat temp, and the sauce impact the final taste profile far more than the
name on a bag of wood. Once you have everything else under control, then
you can try different woods.
Bad wood. Whatever you do, never use wood from conifers such as pine, fir,
cyprus, spruce, redwood, or cedar. They contain too much sap and that sap
contains turpines, and they can make the meat taste funny. Some have been
known to make people sick. Yes, I know that cedar planks are popular for
cooking salmon on, but I don't know anyone who burns cedar as a smoke
wood. I have also heard that elm, eucalyptus, sassafras, sycamore, and liquid
amber trees impart a bad flavor. Oleander smoke is poisonous, and I am told
laurel is too.
Never use lumber scraps. Some lumber is treated with chemicals that are
poisonous. Never use wood that has been painted. If you have branches fall
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from trees, make sure they are not moldy. By the way, that's why I don't use
lump charcoal. You can see lumber scraps in there and it makes me wonder
how careful they are to prevent treated lumber from getting in there.
Never use wood that is moldy.
Use air dried wood. Green woods have more sap, burn irregularly, and
impart different flavors than dried wood. Air dried wood is slightly wetter than
kiln dries, and the water provides steam that makes the droplets larger and
stickier. Kiln dried tends to taste smokier, and when wood is the heat source,
getting enough smoke is rarely a problem, so top pitmasters prefer air dried.
How wood is dried doesn't matter if you are burning charcoal, gas, or pellets.
Bark or no bark? Some wood has more bark than others and that can impact
the flavor. Some folks say you should remove the bark. I don't bother, but
there may be something to this.
Make the wood smolder. You don't want the wood to catch on fire and go
through rapid combustion. You want the wood to smolder. The way to do this
is to starve it by limiting oxygen. If your wood is constantly breaking into
flames, wrap it losely in foil and poke holes in the foil.
What does Meathead prefer? If I was on a dessert island I would want a
bag of apple chunks and a bag of small apple chips or pellets. I would use the
chunks for steady slow release smoke, and the chips or pellets for quick
smoke.
Add wood early. Meat soaks up more wood flavor at the start of the cook,
and the colder the meat the more smoke it absorbs.
Where to get it? There are a number of barbecue specialty stores opening
around the country and there may be one near you. Most hardware stores
carry only hickory or mesquite, but a few carry expanded barbecue supplies
and a selection of woods. Watch the newspaper for ads from stores promoting
a lot of grills. Then give them a call. Another option is to go to an orchard and
ask if you can have some dead limbs. Also there are a number of places to buy
wood on the net. Click here for contact info for online wood suppliers.
How much is enough? It is best to weigh the amount of wood you use so
you can increase or decrease it as you wish in future cooks. The amount you
need will vary depending on your preferences, how tight your cooker is, they
type of fuel, the thickness of the meat, and if you use chunks, chips, or pellets.
Pellets are especially good for measured amounts.
Here's where to start your experiments: On charcoal, use no more than 8
ounces by weight of wood for ribs. Use no more than 16 ounces for pulled pork
and brisket, and no more than 4 ounces for turkey and chicken. Add it in
doses. Put on about two ounces when you put on the meat and add another
two ounces when you can no longer see smoke. On gas grills, double the
amount.
Take notes! Measure the wood and write it down so you can add more or less
the next time you cook. Use less than you think you need. Keep records of
your experiments on a cooking log.
Click here to see the original unedited data from Blonder's experiments.
This page was revised 1/7/2013
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