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10 TIPS FOR SHOOTING TIME-L

10 TIPS FOR SHOOTING TIME-LAPSE


Posted at 14:17h in Tutorials by E. Pacheco

129 Comments

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During the past three years, I have thoroughly researched and practiced the technique of time-lapse photography. The
knowledge gained has enabled me to create the great images that would otherwise have been impossible. Many people
who watch my videos are wondering if they too would be able to make such images, and the answer is yes. Thanks to the
modern technology and its affordable price, almost everyone has access to a digital SLR, and it does not take much more
than that to take high quality time-lapses.
Whether youre new to the technique of time-lapse or have experience, these tips will be very helpful when planning and
implementing your time lapses.
I hope that you enjoy them and put them to practice.
1 .- Plan, plan, plan As the Chinese proverb says, if I had ten hours to chop down a tree, I would use seven in sharpening
the ax. If we are going to make a time-lapse of a sunset, it makes no sense to do 30 miles by car loaded with our gear to
get to the place chosen only two minutes before sunset. It is therefore very important to check both the sunsets and
sunrises, and their orientation in respect to our subject and other possible elements, moon, tides, etc., which may come
into play.
A great tool for this task is The Photographers Ephemeris. We must get to know its interface, observing the sun and
moon and their trajectory, planning ahead our location and only then to begin to prepare the gear.

2 .- Dont forget anything. When you go shooting time-lapse, you can spend several hours standing on a rock in the middle
of nowhere, so you have to be well prepared. I wouldnt want to sound like your mom, but it is worth reminding you that
you should take with you enough of water and food. If its winter, spare socks, a warm coat, gloves And if its summer,
more water, a hat and sunscreen. A fully charged cell phone and something to read is a must. Oh and do not forget the
camera and tripod.
3 .- Tripod, our best friend. Stop dreaming about expensive lightweight carbon tripod. What we really need is that old
heavy tripod that nobody wants to carry. Keep in mind that your camera will remain in the same position perhaps for an
hour or two. The slightest shake or rolling caused by the wind during the shots, will end up in a shaken take. If your tripod
is not sturdy enough, you can hang your camera bag on it, or use stones to give it greater stability and rigidity. This is
essential in long exposures.

4.- Framing is key. Most of the times we arrive to the locations very excited, with so much energy that we are not able to
visualize the scene, trying to find the right framing. Leave the backpack and tripod and take a walk around the area,
imagine the shot, take a look at the scene, try to find the best location and composition.
We must act as if we were going to take a single shot, as if we had brought a single roll of film in which, unfortunately, we
have only one exposition. The time-lapse technique is essentially photography, and we should think of it as such. If we
are thinking only of how the final video will look, well skip the details that make the difference between a good shot and
an epic image.

5 .- Basic camera settings. Some people will tell you that auto/priority mode and Jpg files are the best settings to make a
time-lapse. Just as no one uses those settings when taking some quality photographs, to achieve professional results in
time lapse we will use manual exposure and RAW files.
Both manual mode and RAW files will give us greater control over our camera and during the postproduction. We must

remember that the camera is shooting for a long time, so if we use any automatism, the camera will try to correct every
change of light and the color temperature. So if you shot it in JPEG, there will be no turning back.

6 .- Live View. If your SLR has a good battery that lasts long , I would recommend you to use the Live View. By using this
feature, the mirror will always stay up and not hit when the shutter fires, thereby avoiding possible camera shake. Also,
the Live View allows us to visualize our shot in real time. If you also activate the histogram, you will also have the exposure
under control.

WORK

7 .- Focus accurately. It is very important to select the manual mode in both the camera and lens, if applicable. (If we have
an SLR with Live View, we can also focus with the magnifying loup at the desired point.) In most of my shots I usually focus
to infinity while I use wide angle lenses. In other cases, however, having elements of interest in the first or middle term, we
must ensure that this is where the focus will be. Knowing the hyperfocal of our lens is always important, since many of our
shots are of landscape and is in this case we want the longest depth of field.
8 .- Avoid flicker. No, I`m not talking about the popular photography website. By flicker is known as the unwanted
effect that occurs in the time-lapse due to slight differences in exposure between shots. This difference is that the
diaphragm of autofocus lenses remains fully open until the shutter closes it, not always with the same size. Incredibly,
there are tiny variations between takes.
We have two solutions to avoid this problem. First, using manual lenses, my favorite solution, to ensure that the
diaphragm is always kept fixed in the same position. The second and more accessible is to partially disconnect the lens
from the camera to cut the communication between them, selecting the desired aperture ourselves using the depth of
field button.
9 .- Choose the right lapse. This is perhaps the most important point when dealing with a time-lapse. The interval
between shots is what will determine the speed of our final video. The longer the interval, the quicker will be the
movement of the elements of our shot, and vice versa. But we must adapt the interval to the real movement of our
scenery.
Confused? Here are a few suggestions of lapses depending on the scene.
Clouds moving very slowly, interval of 10 seconds.
Clouds moving normally: interval of 5 seconds.
Clouds moving very fast: interval of 3 seconds.
People walking down the street: interval of 2 seconds.
Path of the sun on a clear day, nterval of 30 seconds.
Night landscapes, stars, moon, etc.: nterval of 20 to 30 seconds.

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02:48

10.- Knowing how long your time-lapse takes. This is the second major variable that we have to calculate. In many cases
we know it, as in a football game or a sunset. Well set an interval and clip duration that gives us an adequate number of
frames. On the contrary, if we are shooting a scene without beginning or an end, like a flowing of a river, the exposure and
interval will determine the length of the shot.
Some quick math: Knowing that we need 25 frames to create one second of video (in the European PAL system, in the
United States it would be 30) a standard length of 10 seconds of footage will need 250 frames. Therefore, we only have to
multiply 250 by our lapse to know how much time we need to invest in doing the time-lapse.
It can happen that you do not know the duration of the event or you want to capture a long scene, like a thunderstorm
formation. In these cases, the interval is the premium: choose the right one for the scene and select infinity or zero in
the number of frames of your remote. Now you just have to be patient.

If you want to learn more, maybe you would like to attend to one of my workshops

129 COMMENTS

SUSAN
Posted at 06:23h, 19 April Log in to Reply
Amazing photos. Very beautiful. Love the dark sky oneit doesnt look like Earth. Looks like Im
transported to someplace new.

SHANIQUA
Posted at 08:51h, 09 May Log in to Reply
its like the magical land of nuggets

SERG
Posted at 18:16h, 17 May Log in to Reply
Very good! Thanks.

STU
Posted at 20:19h, 06 June Log in to Reply
Thanks for the tips, your two time lapse tutorials really sped up the learning curve. Got any handy tips
regarding camera settings when shooting from day to night? What is the best way to handle that?
Cheers

PEDRO SNATOS
Posted at 08:55h, 09 May Log in to Reply
HEYA STU! i will always love you, you have a place in my mexican heart. COME VISIT ME IN
NEPAL

DPS
Posted at 10:13h, 15 October Log in to Reply
Hey, i am visiting nepal in December. What about you?

E. PACHECO
Posted at 18:33h, 21 October Log in to Reply
Sounds fun, I think I`m going to Cuba, a bit warmer

NAME*JOVINO AVARIA
Posted at 19:19h, 14 July Log in to Reply
Comment Estimado/s
Hoy tuve la suerte de ver programa en TV5(espaol), donde apreci el interesante trabajo de fotografiar
con lapsos de tiempo. Sin duda la tecnologa nos hace encontrar nuevos horizontes. Felicito al equipo
Escribo desde Chile,Concepcin, soy fotgrafo de aficin de algunas dcadas(Equipo Canon(anloga) y
ahora digital
Me impresion el trabajo por Uds realizado y agradezco la ayuda que prestan para aplicar la tcnica.
Estar atento a las novedades que informan
Felicitaciones
Jovino

E. PACHECO
Posted at 20:56h, 18 July Log in to Reply
Gracias por tu inters.
Un saludo.

FRANCISCO MARTIN
Posted at 09:14h, 19 July Log in to Reply
Eduardo te felicito y te animo a que sigas sorprendiendonos a propios y extraos con tus magnficos
trabajo. Soy un aficionado a la fotografa que disfruta con la observacin de tus trabajos. Una vez ms,
reitero mi admiracin por el desarrollo de la tcnica as como por los emplazamientos elegidos. Las
auroras son impresionantes.

FRANCISCO MARTIN
Posted at 09:21h, 19 July Log in to Reply
Enrique te pido disculpas por el patinazo en el agradecimiento del comentario anterior.
Estoy trabajando con otro colega y su nombre es Eduardo y se han cruzado las neuronas. Un
saludo y mil gracias por las imgenes as como por el acercamiento de la tcnica con tus
sencillas explicaciones.

E. PACHECO
Posted at 15:37h, 20 July Log in to Reply
Muchas gracias, saludos.

CARLOS DE LA CALLE
Posted at 00:27h, 14 August Log in to Reply
Hola enrique, fantasticos tus comentarios y tu trabajo. Tengo una duda. Cmo disparas, he leido algo de
un intervalmetro, qu es, se puede conseguir fcilmente? para Canon.
gracias por tu trabajo

E. PACHECO
Posted at 10:08h, 15 August Log in to Reply
Gracias Carlos. Para hacer timelapse slo necesitas un intervalometro como este:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Timer-Remote-shutter-Realease-f-Canon-450D-500D-550D600D-60D-G12-G11-SLR-Camera-/150874483595?
pt=Camera_Camcorder_Remotes&hash=item2320d1eb8b
Saludos.

JUANTXO
Posted at 16:35h, 27 September Log in to Reply
Hola Enrique,
Una consulta, me han encargado un time lapse de la construccin de una carpa que durara 20 das.
Estamos acostumbrados a ver muchos time lapse pero casi todos estn realizados en pocas horas, pero
cuando pasamos de un ida a otro y no queremos que la noche quede registrada en el video que vamos a
fabricar como debera programar este trabajo? haciendo 25 fotos por da me quedara bien? el tiempo de
exposicin cual seria? hay algn temporizador que ordene que empiece a fotografiar a tal hora y acabe a
otra y al da siguiente vuelva a empezar?
Gracias y un saludo

E. PACHECO
Posted at 00:08h, 28 September Log in to Reply
En esos casos se suele programar el intervalometro para que haga una foto cada hora o cada
media hora, la camara en prioridad a la abertura y despus retocar bastante.
Mucha suerte.

NICOLAS WEIDBERG
Posted at 15:26h, 03 April Log in to Reply
Hola Enrique/Juantxomi problema es parecido, con el agravante de que s muy poco de
fotografanecesit sacar fotos cada hora en ciertos puntos la costa de Sudfrica, tampoco
necesito la noche, y el tiempo total rondara tambin los 20 dasdurante ese tiempo lo
tendra difcil para cargar bateras, hay alguna cmara con semejante autonoma? se pueden
configurar los periodos de reposo para que consuma lo mnimo posible? puede configurarse
el intervalometro para que no saque fotos durante la noche? Muchas gracias por adelantado
y felicidades por la pgina!

LUKE
Posted at 23:15h, 16 October Log in to Reply
Thank you for the time you put into this tutorial! I found it very very helpful. Im having trouble shooting
night time shots of stars and whatnot. Do you have any special tips for shooting top quality clear shots of
the night time sky?
-Luke

E. PACHECO
Posted at 14:06h, 18 October Log in to Reply
Hi Luke, and thanks.
Best way is using a very fast lens, at least 2.8 and good camera, like 5DII. Iso 1600 and 30s is
the usual set up.
Good luck.

PHIL JONES
Posted at 11:49h, 14 July Log in to Reply
Hi Luke. The star shooting bug got me some months back as well and yes, getting good
results is no easy task and absolutely not for the impatient. There is a free package on the
net called Stellarium which is a fantastic tool for planning. You can set location, date, time
and know exactly how the sky will look the night you shoot. (Clouds permitting) If you want
to go further then there are two other free packages called Deep Sky Stacker and
Registax for stars and planets. Seems that the astronomy world is not about making money
which is refreshing, these are all pretty sophisticated software packages. Tons of stuff on
YouTube if you decide to take that path.
My results so far have been fair but I also experiment a lot. Made the mistake of using long
lens at first and found that they emphasized star movement (duh.bit of a no-brainer really
but my loss) I have a photograph called sky sausages to remind me to do a bit more thinking
in future.
A wide lens will allow longer exposure. However, focusing becomes an issue because even
the brightest star is difficult to see through the viewfinder (I dont have liveview). I use an
18-55 lens, focus using the 55mm setting and then pull back to 18. Wide aperture and a high
ISO as you find acceptable. At 18mm Ive done exposures of 60 seconds ISO 1600 without
producing star-trails. I will be trying for longer exposures soon. If its timelapse you are after
then a measure of startriling might even improve results.
The stuff Enrique says about tripods is spot on. I got myself an astronomers tripod with an
equatorial mount and built my own adapter for the camera. Weighs a ton but nothing moves
it.
Light pollution is the biggest issue for me. Finding somewhere truly black is not easy and it
frustrating to find photographs showing a gradation from black to quite bright at the
horizon when even after an hour in the dark, it isnt apparent to the eye. Ive come to believe
that if you can see your camera then it aint dark enough.
It is about patience but the stars are going to be there for a while yet. Just keep making the

It is about patience but the stars are going to be there for a while yet. Just keep making the
changes to suit your kit and conditions. Good luck and sorry for the long reply.

E. PACHECO
Posted at 09:32h, 19 July Log in to Reply
Thanks for sharing your experiences Phil.
Cheers.

KEVIN
Posted at 06:00h, 28 August Log in to Reply
Hi Guys,
Ive been doing this sort of stuff for a month (so ive learnt a small
amount of things :D) and i use a telescope for most of my work. As
said by Phil, if you want to get good pictures of objects in the sky
then find a computerized equatorial mount so that it not only
tracks left to right, up and down but also rotates with the sky so
that the object always has the same position and rotation on the
CCD.
Currently i dont have an equatorial mount so i get field rotation
after about 60 seconds (this depends on how high it is in the sky,
the higher the quicker it rotates with above 80 degrees being
terrible)
With the current setup, i have to put my ISO to the highest (6400)
and limit the exposure to 30 seconds or so. When i get a better
mount i can drop the ISO to 1200ish for less noise and do 5 minute
exposures. The light pollution sometimes can be very bad so check
when the moon is out and then stay home on those nights! Another
trick is to take off the eye piece and attach the eye piece cover (this
is a must).
Not trying to grab money but this is my best work yet
Thanks,
Kevin

KEVIN

KEVIN
Posted at 06:01h, 28 August
Looks like the link is a bit off but the last two lines will
take you to where i was aiming.

RICARDO ARMENGOL
Posted at 19:06h, 17 October Log in to Reply
Muy buena informacin para los que estamos empezando con el Timelapse. Muchsimas gracias.

MICAH BUSH
Posted at 05:34h, 20 October Log in to Reply
For a time-lapse that I would want to do of the sunset and also have a nice transition to photograph the
stars all in one continuous shot, how would I go about doing that?

E. PACHECO
Posted at 20:56h, 20 October Log in to Reply
You need a little brumper. Google it.
Good luck.

LO QUE DEBES SABER DE TIME-LAPSES GRAU LUMINOTECNIA


Posted at 07:36h, 23 October Log in to Reply
[...] 10 consejos para hacer time-lapse [...]

CARLOS
Posted at 19:45h, 24 October Log in to Reply
Buenisimo. Gracias por compartir.
Un saludo

JOSE MARA MORENO


Posted at 18:48h, 31 October Log in to Reply
Gracias, Enrique, muy bueno.
Una curiosidad, para evitar flickeos: cmo desacoplas parcialmente la conexin cmara-objetivo,
dejando un diafragma fijo a tu eleccin?, En objetivos manuales no hay problema, pero en el resto la
seleccin de la abertura es siempre por los contactos y se desacoplas parcialmente la pierdes. no?

E. PACHECO
Posted at 21:01h, 03 November Log in to Reply
En Canon hay que pulsar el boton de profundidad de campo y desacoplar la optica, pierdes
la conexin pero asi bloqueas el diafragma y evitas el flickeo.

JOSE MARA MORENO SANTIAGO


Posted at 16:19h, 04 November Log in to Reply
Llevo toda la vida haciendo fotos y usando casi toda la cacharrera imaginable,
pero no lo saba!. Nada habitual dar con gente con talento y generosa,
muchsimas gracias! El flickeo es uno de mis mltiples problemas con los timelapses, muy difcil de resolver bien en edicin. Estos tutoriales de lo mejor que
he encontrado. Gracias.

E. PACHECO
Posted at 15:04h, 05 November Log in to Reply
Muchas gracias, me alegro que te fuera til.
Saludos.

MAT
Posted at 18:49h, 08 December Log in to Reply
Hi Enrique!
Great tips and great time-lapse clips.
Just one question: do you drag your shutter or not?
Thanks!
Regards,
Mat

E. PACHECO
Posted at 17:29h, 11 December Log in to Reply
Hi Mat, yes, always.
cheers

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Posted at 16:54h, 11 January Log in to Reply
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PETER WOLFGANG ESPINEL


Posted at 00:51h, 17 January Log in to Reply
Gracias por los consejos amigo. Me fueron muy tiles!

MIHAI
Posted at 09:19h, 17 January Log in to Reply
Hi! Great tips and beautiful photos. Thank you for sharing. Regards!

SIMON FREO
Posted at 10:47h, 17 February Log in to Reply
your advice in section 9 regarding timelapse of Clouds is reversed to what it should be
Clouds moving very slowly, one frame every 20 seconds. (should be 5 seconds)
Clouds moving normally: one frame every 10 seconds. (not sure what you mean by normal ? but perhaps
1 second)
Clouds moving very fast: a frame every 5 seconds. (should be 20 seconds)

E. PACHECO
Posted at 18:02h, 18 February Log in to Reply
I`m talking about the interval, maybe you got it wrong. Clouds moving very fast interval of
20s? no way!

TIMELAPSE | ALLO | ESTUDI GRFIC


Posted at 19:20h, 18 February Log in to Reply
[...] deixo un timelapse dEnrique Pacheco i el seu blog on ens dona consells per a la realitzaci daquesta
[...]

SERGIO ROJAS
Posted at 09:17h, 27 February Log in to Reply
Un tutorial completsimo! Enhorabuena por tu trabajo y por tu web Enrique. Un abrazo

RODOLFO PEZ
Posted at 15:54h, 27 February Log in to Reply
Como siempre tu trabajo es excepcional.!!

DAVID
Posted at 08:39h, 19 March Log in to Reply

Muy buen tutorial. Me ha servido de muchsimo ya que estoy recopilando toda la info posible. He hecho
algunos timelapses pero siempre han sido a modo de vdeo, no foto a foto, con toda esta info ya tengo, al
menos, para volver a casa con algo que hacer despus de una larga noche jejeje.
Enrique, una preguntita, y al hacer as fotos en Raw, disparamos a calidad total? como bajamos ese frame
(5600px a 1920px) de tamao? Simplemente escalando en el editor de vdeo? o lo haces foto a foto con
el Photoshop antes de pasarlo al editor de video.
Tengo una Canon 5D mk II y un Carl Zeiss 18 Dsitagon 3.5
Aunque no hace el efecto fisheye, si que estira a los lados, tu corriges esto de alguna manera o lo dejas tal
cual? Lo digo porque si no disparo en horizontal, ensancha de abajo y estrecha de arriba o viceversa.
Muchas gracias por toda la info!!!

E. PACHECO
Posted at 13:16h, 19 March Log in to Reply
En el tutorial de revelado con Lightroom explico todo el proceso.
Nunca utilizo ojos de pez, odio las lineas curvas.
Saludos.

DAVID
Posted at 11:02h, 23 March Log in to Reply
Pacheco, el mio no es un ojo de pez, no ahueva los extremos pero si es
arquitectnico, y las lineas son rectas, lo que si no pones la cmara en
horizontal, se nota esa curvatura. Que objetivo recomiendas? Veo que en tu
video tambien tienes la cmara en horizontal, pero si quisieras coger mas cielo
que tierra no te quedaria la imagen algo doblada? Que objetivo angular usas
normalmente?
Muchisimas gracias!!

E. PACHECO
Posted at 11:07h, 23 March Log in to Reply
Yo uso un 16-35mm, si levantas la camara con mucho angular
obtienes distorsin de perspectiva, pero se puede arreglar en parte
con LIghtroom. Yo es lo que hago.
Saludos.

SHAWN
Posted at 16:01h, 15 April Log in to Reply
How long is the dolly your using?

E. PACHECO
Posted at 22:07h, 15 April Log in to Reply
One meter.

VINAY
Posted at 05:28h, 04 May Log in to Reply
liked it.good

DAVID AHN
Posted at 01:55h, 08 May Log in to Reply
Thank you so much for your work and this tutorial. I just got bitten HARD by the timelapse bug. Still
playing with camera settings, but auto exposure leads to flicker as you state as the exposure meter
responds to the amount of sunlight vs. clouds, but I fear manual will lead to over/underexposure as light
levels change, as I love sunrise/sunset (doesnt everyone?) timelapses. Am I overthinking this?
I suppose you overexpose the setting sun to get more color out of the night sky, or expose properly for
pre-dawn and overexpose the rising sun a little? I suppose bracketing would allow you to choose which
exposure, but then theres the nightmare of transitioning from the -1EV to 0EV to +1EV I know youve
worked all this out, so any guidance would be awesome.
Also, my 5DII manual warned against shooting into the sun do you worry that the live view will
damage your sensor? I know what a magnifying glass does to insects.
Thanks again for your tutorial, and thanks in advance for any help.

E. PACHECO
Posted at 16:04h, 08 May Log in to Reply
I always, always shoot in Manual. Expose correctly at the beginning of the sunset and let it
go to dark. And the other way around in sunrise.
Never have problems with sun agains my sensor.
Good luck.

DAVID AHN
Posted at 17:21h, 11 May Log in to Reply
Thanks for your reply!
I just tried a sunset off my veranda, f/11, 1 s, ISO 100. Even at 1 second, it was
underexposed at 5:10 am, way overexposed by 7 am. I guess Ill have to further
underexpose when dark! Ill keep experimenting.
Thanks again, Enrique!

WWW.MONTAN-LAGO.NL
Posted at 14:33h, 07 June Log in to Reply
Hi there, just wanted to say, I liked this article. It was inspiring. Keep on posting!

NEHMAN
Posted at 19:52h, 07 June Log in to Reply
hi.iam new to all this ,i have a question.what is attached to the lens and tripod in the picture overlooking
water falls..

E. PACHECO
Posted at 09:41h, 09 June Log in to Reply
Thats a matte box with rails, allow you to put high quality filters and block the light.

ANHSTAR
Posted at 04:21h, 28 January Log in to Reply
what brand is that filter holder? amazing tips by the way.

E. PACHECO
Posted at 11:07h, 29 January Log in to Reply
Thanks. Its a pro aim matte box.

PEMUDA
Posted at 08:44h, 09 June Log in to Reply
Hi. I have a question. When shooting night scene and using the motorized slider, how to avoid blur that
cause by motorized slider when my camera take photos?
Sorry for bad English.

E. PACHECO
Posted at 09:42h, 09 June Log in to Reply
If the movement is slow enough you wont have blur. You can also do move shoot move.

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Posted at 16:58h, 09 June Log in to Reply
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ADRIAN
Posted at 16:06h, 25 June Log in to Reply
Una pregunta,con que velocidad a de realizarse el time lapse

THOMAS HARBORG
Posted at 17:36h, 26 June Log in to Reply
Hey. Regarding using raw as file format. What write speed do you recommend. Im currently looking at a
lexar 1000x 32gb. But its pretty expensive. Aldo looking at a transcend 1000x32gb. A bit cheaper but
maybe its not as good as the lexar.
Any recommendations.
I currently have a Canon 40d but will upgrade to a canon 5d mark ii in a year or so.

E. PACHECO
Posted at 10:04h, 27 June Log in to Reply
That will depend of your interval, but usually is not a problem. I use x533 an works fine.

E. PACHECO
Posted at 10:04h, 27 June Log in to Reply
Depende de la velocidad de tu escena, tienes ejemplos en el tutorial.

THOMAS HARBORG
Posted at 07:58h, 28 June Log in to Reply
First thx for the reply. The other day i tried a 1 second interval of
people skating. I have a 4gb 400x cf card. And that couldnt even
process medium jpg. But ill kerp investigatong what speed is
necissary.
Good times

DIEGO
Posted at 22:24h, 08 July Log in to Reply
Hola. si voy a fotografias un atardecer y parte de la noche que settings deberia usar? porque al inciia en
al tarde tendre una luz fuerte del sol y al llegar la noche sera demaciado oscuro para pode regristrar la
noche
Saludos y gracias por el Blog

E. PACHECO
Posted at 11:19h, 09 July Log in to Reply
Si quieres registrar correctamente tanto el dia como la noche, tendrs que usar prioridad a
la abertura, eso si, preparate para corregir el flickeo despus.
Suerte.

CSAR GMEZ
Posted at 13:42h, 09 July Log in to Reply
Que gran tecnica y muy bien que explicaste. Felicitaciones por tu trabajo es excelente.

E. PACHECO
Posted at 09:30h, 19 July Log in to Reply
Gracias Csar.

JOSE ANTONIO DIAZ CHI


Posted at 00:53h, 16 July Log in to Reply
Gran trabajo hecho , los timelapse me han cautivado yo tengo un nikon d40 es posible poder usarla para
hacer timelpase soy de Cancun y sin duda hay paisajes increibles playa ciudad y muchas cosas mas y me
gustaria hacer felicitaciones por la pagina

E. PACHECO
Posted at 09:28h, 19 July Log in to Reply
Gracias Jose Antonio.
Claro que la puedes usar, slo necesitas un intervalometro, un tripode y mucha paciencia.
Un saludo.

CINELERRA #13: CREAR UN TIMELAPSE | LINUX-OS.NET


Posted at 14:52h, 16 July Log in to Reply
[...] el blog de Enrique Pacheco tenemos unos cuantos consejos bsicos para realizar los timelapses de
forma [...]

RAMON
Posted at 12:38h, 22 July Log in to Reply
look at this, it is the greatest ive ever seen, the mountain http://vimeo.com/22439234 by TSO
Photography

MANI
Posted at 08:44h, 05 August Log in to Reply
Could you explain your gear in the last picture? What is the thing hooked on to the camera lens in front.
Thanks

E. PACHECO
Posted at 18:51h, 06 August Log in to Reply
Thats a matte box, used to hold filters and block the light from the sides.

PAULA LEDDA
Posted at 14:49h, 05 August Log in to Reply
Enrique como estas? soy de Mendoza Argentina tengo que hacer un time lapse de un edificio que van a
pintar de colores. Cada cuanto debo poner el intervalmetro? saludos!

E. PACHECO
Posted at 18:52h, 06 August Log in to Reply
Depender de cuanto vayan a tardar en pintarlo, horas, das, semanas?

PHOTOGEEK
Posted at 07:34h, 06 August Log in to Reply
Hello I am looking for blogs about photography and have found yours, good article, I like it, please visit
my page All about photography

RICHARD ROSSI
Posted at 20:44h, 11 August Log in to Reply
In tip #8 Avoid Flicker in Top Ten Tips for shooting a Time-Lapse, you suggest partially disconnecting
your lens from the camera. How is this done? Im not sure how to do it. Would you please let me know?

E. PACHECO
Posted at 21:46h, 12 August Log in to Reply
My friend Dustin Farrell will show it to you. https://vimeo.com/30974031

CMO HACER UN TIMELAPSE DE TUS VIAJES CON TU MVIL ANDROID


Posted at 10:13h, 14 August Log in to Reply
[...] Las preguntas que nos surgen a la hora de plantear un timelapse son muchas, porque primero
debemos saber cunto tiempo va a durar la toma, a qu velocidad debemos tomar imgenes, y aparte de
todo esto estn las consideraciones fotogrficas, claro (exposicin, blancos, etc, etc.). A pesar de que
Droid Timelapse, que es una app gratis para hacer timelapse con nuestro Android nos permite
configurarlo todo, no debemos dejar de planificar la estrategia a seguir. Aqu unos pocos consejos para,
sobre todo, saber cada cunto debe disparar la cmara (ms en la web de Enrique Pacheco): [...]

JAVI
Posted at 11:16h, 28 August Log in to Reply
hola Pedro,
tengo una duda encuanto al enfoque, bueno no tengo reflex, tengo una powershot sx50hs, el caso es que
he leido por ahi lo del enfoque infinito, hay que usar enfoque infinito en los timelapse? o solo en larga
exposicion?
mi camara no lo tiene y tengo que andar jugando con el CHDK.
saludos.

E. PACHECO
Posted at 16:20h, 29 August Log in to Reply
Lo mejor ser que te hagas con una DSLR.
Saludos.

DENIS
Posted at 18:42h, 30 August Log in to Reply
Iceland; beautiful to the bare eye, but in that magnificent timelapse breathtaking!

TIME: TECHNICAL UNDERSTANDING OF TIME LAPSES | MY PHOTO


NOTES
Posted at 20:53h, 12 September Log in to Reply
[...] Lengh of shoot. This was a bit more difficult. But I used this to help me and my calculator: Knowing
that we need 25 frames to create one second of video (in the European PAL system, in the United States
it would be 30) a standard length of 10 seconds of footage will need 250 frames. Therefore, we only have
to multiply 250 by our lapse to know how much time we need to invest in doing the time-lapse. See
more at: http://www.enriquepacheco.com/10-tips-for-shooting-time-lapse#sthash.ilQDnQHS.dpuf [...]

SHELDON
Posted at 19:20h, 13 September Log in to Reply
Great tips and amazing photos and videos. A question on night photographydoes the 20-30 second
interval include the actual exposure time. Most night shots seem to be around 30 sec exposure per shot,
so is the interval added on to that , meaning 1 shot every minute or so? Thanks .

E. PACHECO
Posted at 19:48h, 13 September Log in to Reply
No interval between shots at night. Maybe 1 or 2 seconds.

GUA: CMO HACER UN TIME LAPSE CON LA CMARA PIVOTHEAD (III)


Posted at 08:01h, 24 September Log in to Reply
[...] 10 consejos para hacer un time-lapse, por Enrique Pacheco. De la decena de pasos, qudate con
aquellos que hacen referencia a la parte ms artstica, como por ejemplo Encuadrar es la clave. [...]

JUANJO VALLS
Posted at 21:06h, 15 October Log in to Reply
Hola Enrique! Mira llevo poco tiempo haciendo Time lapses, y mi problema es el fickeo, trabajo con
prioridad de velocidad de obturacin, marcndole yo la velocidad siempre por debajo de 1/30 y dejando
ndiafragma muy alto para que no haya problema en abrir los pasos que sea necesario segn necesite si
es anochecer, atardecer Pues bien siempre me sale el flickeo cuando edito el time lapse. Que es lo que
pasa? Te estar infinitamente agradecido si me puedes aclarar algo. Me gusta mucho tu trabajo. Muchas
gracias de antemano.

E. PACHECO
Posted at 18:32h, 21 October Log in to Reply
Debes bloquear el diafragma de la optica, y despus procesar con LR Timelapse, que evita el
flickeo.
Muchas gracias.
Saludos.

JUANJO
Posted at 15:31h, 25 October Log in to Reply
Gracias Enrique, voy a ver como bloqueo el diafragma. No saba que haba un
LR Timelapse, as de espec
fico vaya. Gracias de nuevo, un saludo.

E. PACHECO
Posted at 07:35h, 28 October Log in to Reply
De nada.
Saludos y suerte.

TIMELAPSE TUTORIAL | DERMOT DOHERTY CREATIVE DIGITAL MEDIA


Posted at 15:20h, 17 November Log in to Reply
[...] Timelapse Tutorial [...]

PATCHWORK CARPET
Posted at 19:29h, 18 November Log in to Reply
really usefull tips! i do a lot of timelapse photography, was happy to read tips from professionals

GAVIN HARDCASTLE
Posted at 16:13h, 21 November Log in to Reply
Brilliant video and brilliant article Enrique. For the shot at 2.10 did you use any lights to light the icy
foreground or was that purely moonlight?

E. PACHECO
Posted at 09:38h, 22 November Log in to Reply
No lights were used. Just moonlight.

PETER GRAY
Posted at 01:37h, 02 December Log in to Reply
Hello Enrique
Im setting up a time-lapse film festival next year.
I am also a time lapse photographer, but I am looking for other people to showcase on the festival
website. As a lead up to the festival next year, I would like to include techniques and tutorials for people
interested in entering the festival/awards.
Would I be able to republish this tutorial on the festival website? (with full attribution and links to your
website.)
I would also like to add links to your work in the Showcase part of the website.
Regards,
Peter Gray
Keyframe Festival
Canberra Australia

E. PACHECO
Posted at 09:34h, 17 December Log in to Reply
Of course Peter.
Regards.

PETER
Posted at 19:40h, 02 December Log in to Reply
hello, thanks for the tips. i have one question. i want pratice timelapse photography witha slider. how
large in mm should be the distance between two shoots?

TIME LAPSE EXPERIMENT - PESSOA'S IB FILM


Posted at 14:30h, 08 December Log in to Reply
[...] Here you can find 10 nice tips about taking time lapse pictures: http://www.enriquepacheco.com/10tips-for-shooting-time-lapse [...]

PACO ROMO TORRES


Posted at 19:47h, 08 December Log in to Reply
Gracias por este hermoso reportaje, pues ayuda mucho a la gente del mundo fotogrfico .Un cordial
saludo

SHUTTERBUG REMOTE A BLUETOOTH LE CAMERA REMOTE THAT


OPERATES YOUR CAMERA DIRECTLY FROM THE SHUTTER PORT | THE
BEST TIME LAPSE PHOTOGRAPHY TUTORIALS & CREATIVE
INSPIRATION
Posted at 19:18h, 15 December Log in to Reply
[...] 10 tips for shooting time-lapse http://www.enriquepacheco.com/10-tips-for-shooting-time-lapse [...]

INCREBLES "TIME-LAPSE" VIDEOS - MOSTRARTE.CL


Posted at 18:05h, 13 January Log in to Reply
[...] http://www.enriquepacheco.com/10-tips-for-shooting-time-lapse?lang=es [...]

PETER
Posted at 18:26h, 30 January Log in to Reply
I love your work. Heres a great web app that will calculate the precise interval to set to achieve a certain
video length: Time-lapse interval calculator

ASIKNYA BER-TIMELAPSE DENGAN LUMIX DMC-GF6 | GOENROCK'S


VLOG
Posted at 17:19h, 03 February Log in to Reply
[...] mau belajar lebih jauh cara membuat time-lapse, silakan ngesot ke
http://www.enriquepacheco.com/10-tips-for-shooting-time-lapseatau [...]

SPRAY TAN
Posted at 19:42h, 05 February Log in to Reply
Hi, Neat post. There is an issue together with your website in internet explorer, would check this?
IE nonetheless is the marketplace chief and a good component of people
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this problem.

SHANE
Posted at 03:45h, 15 February Log in to Reply
Wow learn some thing new every day, thanks I didnt know rigidity was a real word
Also big help on the math side of it braking frames in to seconds helps a lot for my timelapseses
Thanks

TIMELAPSE VIDEOS ERSTELLEN | QOOLI


Posted at 21:13h, 19 February Log in to Reply
[...] Tutorials im Internet bezglich wie man solche Timelapse-Aufnahmen macht gibt es unzhlige. Hier
wre ein ganz Gutes: http://www.enriquepacheco.com/10-tips-for-shooting-time-lapse [...]

REAL ETSATE AGENTS


Posted at 15:40h, 23 February Log in to Reply
I pay a visit each day a few blogs and information sites to read articles or reviews,
except this web site offers feature based posts.

NEWSBOY CAP
Posted at 13:58h, 07 March Log in to Reply
Wow that was unusual. I just wrote an really long comment but after I clicked
submit my comment didnt appear. Grrrr well Im not writing all that over again.
Anyhow, just wanted to say excellent blog!
My site; newsboy cap

TIME-LAPSE PREPARATION | TRAVELINGTOHAWAII


Posted at 00:01h, 17 March Log in to Reply
[...] See more at: http://www.enriquepacheco.com/10-tips-for-shooting-timelapse#sthash.65FMd2gm.dpuf [...]

RENATA T
Posted at 21:05h, 17 March Log in to Reply
Te felicito Enrique por tu excelente trabajo, yo soy fotgrafa aficionada y he hecho pequeos Time Lapse
sobre todo de noche pero en muchas oportunidades he tenido el problema que se me empaa el lente de
la cmara, donde vivo es fro y hay mucha humedad , como puedo solucionar este problema?? Muchas
gracias de antemano

E. PACHECO
Posted at 09:31h, 21 March Log in to Reply
Hola Renata, tienes que poner unos calentadores elctricos para las lentes.
Saludos.

DANIELA A.
Posted at 07:44h, 16 May Log in to Reply
Hola Enrique, gracias por tan genial post, nunca intente hacer time lapse, me
atrae pero no me siento segura, sin embargo la pregunta de Renata atrajo mi
atencin. Vivo en Uruguay, cerca de la costa y estamos teniendo humedades
impresionantes, Podras decirme que es un calentador elctrico para la lente?
La verdad que no hay electricidad en la playa

asi que ni idea como resolver lo

de la humedad Ojala sigas publicando de este tema, es super interesante. Mil


gracias por tu generosidad! Un saludo cordial.

E. PACHECO
Posted at 12:54h, 06 June Log in to Reply
Gracias Daniela.
Aqu tienes lo que buscas. http://www.dew-not.com/timelapse.htm

JOS F
Posted at 18:21h, 18 March Log in to Reply
Hola amigo, muy buen post. tengo una consulta, quiero hacer un timelapse ( nunca he hecho uno) de un
evento en un local y quiero hacerlo desde que abren la puerta hasta que el local ya este lleno. en un
intervalo de cuanto tiempo crees que deba hacer cada fotograma?

E. PACHECO
Posted at 09:32h, 21 March Log in to Reply
Usa unos 10 segundos, suele funcionar.
Suerte.

VERN
Posted at 07:56h, 19 March Log in to Reply
Im not that much of a internet reader to be honest but your blogs really nice, keep it up!
Ill go ahead and bookmark your site to come back later.
All the best
Also visit my web blog buy followers on instagram cheap

MOBILE GAMES
Posted at 09:49h, 11 April Log in to Reply
Hey there, Youve done an incredible job.
I will definitely digg it and personally recommend to my friends.
I am confident theyll be benefited from this website.

HANS
Posted at 11:01h, 11 April Log in to Reply
Hola Enrique, muy bueno el trabajo que te has tomado. Muy didctico. Solo tengo una pregunta. Cual es
el programa que se usa habitualmente para editar un Time Lapse o cual me recomiendas. Gracias

E. PACHECO
Posted at 13:04h, 06 June Log in to Reply
Yo uso lightroom y quicktime.
Saludos.

DAVID
Posted at 02:36h, 24 April Log in to Reply
Amazing timelapses Enrique! I have three questions:
1 What is the silver thing coming out of your upper tripod in the fifth image?
2 I did a time lapse two nights ago of the stars, and unfortunately I got the strange flicker in a circular
formation in the middle of the frame. I shot with a Canon 70-200 F2.8. My Canon 17-40 F4 hasnt shown
this problem yet So Im confused about disconnecting the lens partially do I just press the release
button and turn the lens a little bit?
3 Where are most of the timelapses on this site shot?
Thanks

ONLINE KREDITI
Posted at 07:03h, 27 April Log in to Reply
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practical. Keep on posting!
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THOMAS HAVERKAMP
Posted at 19:38h, 06 May Log in to Reply
Great blog. It showed me clearly where I was making the misstakes in my own Timelapses. Using the
auto priority mode was one of my errors, and yes, I see a nice flickering of my movie due to the exposure
differences.

TANIE WYNAJMOWANIE SAMOCHODW W MIECIE TARNW


Posted at 14:02h, 10 May Log in to Reply
Thanks for sharing your thoughts on .
Regards

DAY 12- RESEARCH TIME LAPSES AND LONDON TRIP |


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CMO HACER UN VDEO TIME-LAPSE CON TU CMARA LUMIX G BIENVENIDOS AL BLOG DE PANASONICBIENVENIDOS AL BLOG DE
PANASONIC | BLOG DE PANASONIC ESPAA
Posted at 14:52h, 26 May Log in to Reply
[] con el encuadre, la luz, el lugar, para obtener el time lapse perfecto. Nosotros, hemos encontrado un
post con buenas recomendaciones que por ejemplo hace las siguientes sugerencias para decidir cada
cunto debemos disparar una []

THE BEGINNERS GUIDE TO GRADUATION PHOTOGRAPHY - WEBSPON


Posted at 12:29h, 29 May Log in to Reply
[] wait for better timing, Time may never be []

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