Large Crochet Moose Free Pattern

Meet Art and Muddy,

They are about 13 inches tall. I used Red Heart Comfort yarn with a 5mm hook. Art is
the beige moose I made for my father (Art) on Father's Day this year. Muddy is my
brown moose that I tested my pattern with. I absolutely adore them both and I hope you
do too. (see my Dad with his moosehere) And please feel free to name your moose
anything you want!
Art's overallsare also a free pattern here on my blog, pick up that patternhere.Use
the same yarn weight and hook size that you make your moose with.The overalls were
originally intended for a bunny with a big bushy tail. After you put the overalls on your
moose feel free to sew up most of the gapand just leave enough room for the moose
tail.Scroll down this page for the moose pattern.There is aprint friendly

buttonat the bottom of this pattern and also theoption to leave

adonation.
Thank you so much and enjoy!

Supplies:
Red HeartComfort yarn.
Brownmoose~Mocha 3191 withantlers in Cream3240
Beige Moose ~ Tan 3167 with antlers in Mocha 3191
5.0 mm or 4.5mm hook *use a smaller hook if you see gaps in your
stitches
blunt end yarn needle for sewing
scissors
100% polyester stuffing
you can use buttons, a french knot or paint eyes on. I used 10mm and
15mmsafety eyes that I glued in place.
8pipe cleaners orsomewirefor theantlers

Abbreviations:
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
dc =double crochet * used for thumbs only
ch1 = chain one
sl st = slip stitch
2tog = crochet 2 stitches together
f/o = finish off

Click on photos to enlarge them

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How to read the rows:Each row has a sequence as given below. Example: 1sc then 2sc
in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc
in next st over and over to the end of that particular row. The number inside the
parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular
row.
*The head and body are worked in one piece. If you plan to install safety eyes they are
placed in between the 11th and 12th row with 6 or 7 visible stitches between them.
Add in amarker at the end of row 2 and move that marker at the end of every row.
There are assembly instructions at the bottom of this page.
Starting at the top of the head working down to bottom of body:
1)magic circleoradjustable loopwith 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)
8) 1sc in next 13st then 2sc in next st (45)
9-16) 1sc in each st for 8 rows
17) 1sc in next 13st then 2tog (42)
18) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (36)

19) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30)

20) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
21) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
22) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (15)
23) 2sc in each st (30) *stuff and shape head
24-28) 1sc in each st for 5 rows
29) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
30) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)
31-35) 1sc in each st for 5 rows
36) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (36)
37) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30)
38) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
39) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18) *stuff and shape body. Be sure to fill any stuffing
gaps in the neck
40) 1sc then 2tog (12) *stuff over the next 2 rows as needed
41) 1sc then 2tog (8)
f/o leaving a tail for closing up the gap. Weave in and out of the remaining stitches
and pull tight to close. Knot off and hide yarn tails in the body.
Arms:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (15)
4) 1sc in each st for 1 row
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (12)
6) 1sc in each st for 1 row
7) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (10)
8-16) 1sc in each st for 9 rows
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.
If you'd like to add thumbs as I did then insert yarn in between the 5th and 6th row, ch1
then add in 4dc. f/o and shape the thumb with the finishing yarn tail. knot off and hide
yarn tails inside hand.
Stuff hand firmly and stuff arm lightly.

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Legs:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6-7) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
8) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
9) (1sc then 2tog x 6) 1sc in next 6st (18)
10) 1sc in each st for 1 row

11) (1sc then 2tog x 4) 1sc in next 6st (14) *stuff and shape foot
12-22) 1sc in each st for 11 rows*stuff and shape foot after 2 or 3 rows
*stuff leg at the end of row 22.After you complete row 22,scuntil you get to the side
of the leg.Fold flat, ch1 turnand sc through both sides of the leg to close up thetop
ofthe leg. ch1 turn and sc across again then f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

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Snout:for the nostrils I added in 2 french knots in between rows 5 and 6, spacing
canvary. You can do this before or afteryou stuff the snout and sew the snout in place.
I prefer after so I don't have to worry so much about centering the snout when sewing it
on thehead
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7) 1sc in next11st then 2sc in next st (39)
8-11) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
12)1sc in next11st then 2tog(36)
13) 1sc in each st for 1 row
14)1sc in next4st then 2tog(30)
15) 1sc in each st for 1 row
16)1sc in next3st then 2tog(24)
17) 1sc in each st for 1 row
18) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (20)
sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tailfor sewing. Stuff and shape, partially sew to
head and stuff more as needed.

Mouth:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next8st then 2sc in next st (20)
sl st next st and f/o leaving atailfor sewing.
Tongue:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12) work starting yarn tail into this row
3) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (15)

f/o and weave in yarn tail

place wrong sides of the mouth and the tongue together,sew the end of the tongue to
the mouth as pictured.
You can sew the mouth to the snout before or after you sew the snout to the head. I
prefer afterbut you do whatwill work best for you.Sew the back end of mouthoverand
around the 13th to the 16th row of the snout andleave the front of the mouth open. I
sewed the mouth off to one side a bit and not right in the center, that way you can see
the mouth more.
click on the photos to enlarge them

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Ears:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2)1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st(8)
3)1sc in next3st then 2sc in next st(10)
4) 1sc in next4st then 2sc in next st (12)
5) 1sc ineach st for 1 row
6) 1sc in next3st then 2sc in next st (15)
7-8) 1sc ineach st for 2 rows
ch1, bring the corners of row 8 togetherand sc throughboth sides at the same time,
going across to seal up the open edge. Thench1, turn and sc across again.f/o leaving
a tail for sewing.

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Tail:
1) ch6. Begin with a long enough starting tail you can sew into the body
2) sl st the 2nd ch from the hook, 1hdc in next 3 ch's, sl st last ch. f/o with a long

enough tail you can sew into the body.

Antlers:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (8)
3) 1sc in each st for 1 row
4) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (10)
5) 2sc in each st (20)
6) 1sc then 2sc in next st (30)
7-10) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
11) 1sc in next 13st the 2tog (28)
12) 1sc in next 5st the 2tog (24)
13) 1sc in each st for 1 row
14) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (20)
15) 1sc in each st for 1 row
16) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (16)
17) 1sc in each st for 1 row
18) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (12)
19) 1sc in each st for 1 row
20) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (10)
21-23) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.
Antler Points:
For the points, flatten the antler then pull yarn through the side of the antler. ch1, put
in 4hdc and f/o leaving a bit of a tail for shaping.
On each side of the antler:
The 1st point, pull the yarn through in between the 7th and 8th row
The 2nd point in between the 12th and 13th row
The 3rd point in between the 17th and 18th row
click on photos to enlarge them

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Each point will have 2 yarn tails. Hide the starting yarn tail inside the antler. Use the
finishing yarn tail to shape the point. Squeeze the point so that the edges touch then
put in 2 holding whip stitches, f/o and hide the yarn tail inside the antler. Hiding the
yarn tails just means pull them inside with your yarn needle and cut off the end.

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For the antler to stand up off the head you need to add in either a wire or some pipe
cleaners. Wire would probably make this a bit easier but I had none on hand when I

made the moose so instead I used 4 pipe cleaners per antler. This seems to work very
well for me. Lay 2 pipe cleaners side by side and bend them in the middle just enough
so that you can push them through the opening. Push them in just a little then using the
back end of a pencil or stick push them all the way in so that the bend reaches the other
end of the antler. Using the stick push the pipe cleaners to each side so that they
outline the inside of the antler just like they are in the first picture below but on the
inside. When you're done cut off any excess that is sticking out. Add in a couple holding
stitches to keep the sides of the pipe cleaners in place.

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Take 2 more pipe cleaners and again bend them in the middle just enough so that they
fit through the opening, push them about half way inside leaving the ends sticking out.
Cut the ends even with about 2 inches sticking out, twist each pair of ends. These will
be pushed into the head when you're ready to sew the antlers in place. Again, add in a
couple holding stitches to keep the pipe cleaners in place.

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The Flower:This is just a silly flower I threw together last minute. I was not planning
on including it in the pattern but someone has requestedit so here we go.
Start with yellow1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 1scthen 2sc in next st, switch to white on very last sc (9)
continuingon with the petals: *sc next stthench4, 1hdc in each ch starting with the
2nd ch from hook*. Repeatsteps between the * and the * for each petalall the way
around, sl st last st. You should have 8 petals. weave in all yarn tails. Take 2 pipe
cleaners,bend them in half and push themthrough the middle of the flower, making
sure to go through 2 different stitch holes for eachend. Twist 2 ends togetherand
shape the other 2 ends into leaves.


MOOSE ASSEMBLY:
Take your time when sewing. Take breaks when you need them. Use pins to hold the
parts in place and play around with the placements to be sure you are happy with how
the parts look before sewing them in permanently.
1) sew on the snout. The top should be on or touching row 13 and the bottom on or
touching row 19 . You can also sew the mouth piece on now if you haven't already. See
instructions for sewing in the mouth and tongue section above.
2) sew the arms on the 24th row or the 2nd row below the head.
3) sew on the legs. Place the flaps of the legs close to the front of the body, overlap the
2 inner edges of the flaps.
4) sewthe tail on in between the34th and 35th row.
5) sew antlers on the 4th and 5th row. The pipe cleaners need to be wiggled into place.
This part takes a bit of time but they will go in. Wire would go in much easier. Sew all
around the edge of the antler and pull your stitches tight.
6) sew the ears on the 6th and 7th row.
click on photos to enlarge them

Copyright 2015 Author: Sharon Ojala -Amigurumi To Go, All rights

reserved