Sewing Products Machinery and

Equipments

NITESH KUMAR PAL

PRATYUSHA MALHOTRA
(F.P.TECH)

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY,
KANGRA
(APRIL, 2011)

Sewing Products Machinery and

Equipments
A report submitted for

Study of a stitched garment

Submitted by
NITESH KUMAR PAL
PRATYUSHA MALHOTRA
(F.P.TECH)

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY,
KANGRA
(APRIL, 2011)

KNITTED GARMENT

LADIES HALTER TOP WITH 5 TIERS

Fabric Used: 100% Cotton
Single jersey Knit

Cotton:
It is cool to wear and is good absorbent.
Medium strength
Less lustre
Creases easily
Durable
No pilling problem

Thread and Needle Used:

Needle - 14
3 ply thread is used
Thread has S-twist
Polyester thread is used
80 number thread is used

In the Garment:

Components:

COMPONENTS

NUMBER OF PIECES

FRONT PANEL

BACK PANEL

BIAS

BOW WITH MOLBILON TAPE

TRIMS AND ACCESSORIES:

TRIM/ACCESSORY

NUMBER OF PIECES

ELASTIC TAPE

MOBILON TAPE

LABEL

OPERATIONAL BREAKDOWN:
Front and back panel side seam attaching (5)
Attaching the 5 panels to each other
Bias tape attaching at front neck
Elastic tape attaching at back neck
O
Bow attaching at centre front
Bottom hemming
Label attaching

Types of Stitches:
514 (4-Thread Overlock)
(2-Needle and 2-Looper thread)
406(3-Thread Flatlock)
(2-Needle and 1-Looper thread)
514+401(4-Thread Overlock + Single needle chain stitch)
(3-Needle and 3-Looper thread)
401 is for securing
301(Single Needle Lock Stitch)
2-Thread (1 from needle and 1from bobbin)
Generally in Overlock and Flatlock Differential feed mechanism is used
While in Single needle Lockstitch Drop feed or Bottom feed mechanism is used

Types of Seams
Superimposed Seam
Seams Stitched with overlock at side seams and sleeve and rib attachment
Seams Stitched with tape(Bound Seam)- Blue tape attachment at rib

Technicalities involved:
While Knitting:
Check For flying

While Cutting:
Skewing and Bowing

While Stitching:
Matching the stripes
Do not stretch
PROCESS:
Out of assembly line processes:
1. Embroidery (Pattern Sewing Machine)

It is a computerised machine and has a walking pressor foot. There is a mould

which is kept on the fabric where the embroidery needs to be done. The cloth

moves clamped with the mould. The needle works automatically on a

computerised pattern. First the embroidery is scanned on computer and
floppy disk is introduced into the machine for the pattern. The fabric and
mould moves while the needle stitches at one place only according to the
feeded pattern. Embroidery can be done but with single colour thread only.
2. Pattern Making and Cutting(Straight Knife Cutter)
The patterns of every component of the intended garment are first made on
pattern paper according to the size in which the garment needs to be made.
These patterns serve as the production patterns for the garment. Then a stack
of fabric in which the garment is to be made is stacked in layers (by spreading
fabric) of around 5 to 6 inches of height. Then the patterns of every
component of the garment is marked and traced on the fabric in such a way
that there is minimum wastage of fabric. Then the pile of fabric is then
generally cut by Straight knife cutter (electric). The knife is moved along the
traced pattern and thus individual components are obtained. A Bend Knife
Cutter is used when the cloth is moved instead of the knife.

Assembly line

1. Front and Back Attachment:

The front and back bodice are attached along the shoulder with overlock. A
transparent tape called Mobilon is used in the overlock to give strength and
strechability at the shoulder. It is done by 4-Thread Overlock(514)
2. Rib attachment:
A circular band of rib is cut and stitched at ends with single needle lock stitch.
Then the rib is placed with the bodice right to right facing and 4-thread
overlock(514) is done.
Then the rib is turned inwards and a single needle chain stitch is given at the
back bodice.(401) At the front bodice a blue coloured tape (the tape was
prepared out of assembly line) was being attached over the overlock of the
rib. The tape gets folded a separate attachment or by hand. This tape is
stitched by Single needle lockstitch at all four edges. (301, SPI-10)

This tape is for comfort so that overlock does not prickle at the back of neck. It
is also for aesthetic value and design feature of the garment as asked by the
user.
3. Sleeve Attachment:
The sleeve and the bodice were placed right to right facing and stitched by
overlock, thus sleeve was attached to the front and back. It is done by 4Thread Overlock. (514)
4. Side Seam Stitching:
The side seam of the front and back and the sleeves are stitched together by
overlock. Thus side seams are joined up to the bottom by 4- Thread overlock
(514)
5. Bottom Hemming:
The bottom is folded uniformly inside and Stitched by 3-Thread Flatlock.
machine.(406)
6. Tag Attachment
A tag carrying the wash instructions and brand name are the stitched inside at
the lower end at side seam by SNLS. A tag of fit is stitched at the centre of the
back bodice on the blue tape by SNLS.A tag below it carrying brand name
with another tag attached beforehand to it showing size.(301,SPI-10)
Checking:
Checking was done of the garment sewn till the earlier process for lose stitch
or stitch missed or unbalance in front and back bodice or any other fault. The
front and back are matched to see if they are equal or in balance .If not then
this piece is then sent for rectification. The whole is ripped and the fault is
checked and the step at which the mistake is made is tried to find out.
Finishing

Thread Cutting: the excess visible threads are trimmed.

Raw Edge Check: to see that there is no area were stitch is missed

Pressing: Vacuum Pressing is done

Final Checking: Checked for stains and Measurement. Inspected for

flaws in fabric and stitching and thread

Piece Folding: the garment is properly folded by keeping front down

and then folding at sleeves and waist

Piece Packing: Putting the folded garment into the cellophane package
after attaching the price tag.