Elizabeth & James

Ports 1961

Dries Van Noten

Peter Som

Antonio Berardi

The peplum returns to the runways, gaining momentum as an essential design detail for tops, jackets, dresses
even skirts and pants. Soft and fluid or starched and structured, the peplum has long played a role of accentuating
and emphasizing the female form from Mainbocher evening gowns in the 30s to Thierry Muglers fantastical
jackets of the 80s to today. The peplum revival has designers reinterpreting ideas of the past and pushing the
envelope forward with new interpretations for F/W 12, including add-on peplum belts.

1930s

Ladies Home Journal June 1945

Lanvin in LOfficiel n. 339, 1950

Betsey Johnson
1930s

Thierry Mugler 1980s

Christian Dior Haute Couture S/S 97

Opening Ceremony 2010

The peplum was a consistently popular detail on day and eveningwear of the 30s and 40s before playing a key role
in Christian Diors New Look silhouette, part of the structured, nipped-waist jackets that would define 50s style.
Designers later revisited the peplum in the 80s, as 40s influences re-emerged in fashion. Twentieth century peplums
are emerging in 21st century design, with designers experimenting with volume and shapes of all eras.

Jill Stuart

Alix in L'Officiel 1936 n.176

1940s

L'Officiel 1936 n.177

Berman & Co collection

Vogue pattern 1940s

1980s

Peplums offered a femme, flirtatious counterpoint to the solemn lengths of the 30s, breaking up the long and languid
silhouette with sprightly flounce. Jutting out in dramatic fashion or falling in soft, fluid gathers, the peplum added a
waist-defining shape to blouses and tops into the 40s, later reprised in the 80s. Designers experimented with softer,
looser peplum looks this season, yielding all sorts of peplum-ed tops that are easier to wear than yesterday's
precisely tailored versions.

Milly by Michelle Smith

Thierry Mugler

Vivienne Westwood

Givenchy Couture SS99

Romeo Gigli 1980s

Thierry Mugler 1980s

Paris streets

The bustier top was updated for F/W 12, evoking the exaggerated figure-flattering versions of the 80s. Nipped at the
waist, the bustier naturally has a peplum-like silhouette. Designers from Versace to Dolce & Gabbana took it one
step further by adding flared side panels that jut out from the body, reminiscent of Thierry Muglers many fantastical
corsets and bustiers of the 80s.

Christian Dior

Lanvin

in Vogue November 1954

L'Officiel 1936 n.175

Thierry Mugler 1980s

Lilli Ann 1940s

Balmain in L'Officiel 1954 n.387-88

Paris streets

Peplum jackets channeled Mid-Century propriety this season in a multitude of fabrics and cuts. Popular for 30s
evening jackets and later a cornerstone of Diors New Look in the late 40s-50s, peplums add womanly appeal to
traditionally masculine tailored pieces. 80s fashion later revived the peplum jacket, with designers like Thierry
Mugler at the helm. Today's firm yet lightweight fabrics have enough bounce to hold the shape without the
buttressing of yesteryear.

Etro in L'Officiel 1980 n.659

Chloe in L'Officiel 1980 n.659

Burberry Prorsum

Betsey Johnson 1980s

Bottega Veneta

Popular in the 80s, peplum-ed skirts offer a casual interpretation of 30s evening looks, evoking the formal dresses of
the era with whimsy and aplomb. Championed by designers like Betsey Johnson, the peplum skirt added youthful
interest to slim pencil styles or an extra tier to voluminous gathered skirts. Both daytime and dressed-up
interpretations are emerging on runways today, reviving the peplum skirt once again.

L'Officiel 1936 n.181

Yves Saint Laurent 1980s

Peter Pilotto

Alix in L'Officiel 1936 n.184

Givenchy in L'Officiel 1980 n.659

The peplum dress was a defining silhouette in 30s eveningwear, as peplums added waist emphasis to the long
lengths popular of the era. Reprised for both day and evening looks in the 80s, peplum dresses made a surprising
return for F/W 12, with knee- to floor-length styles emerging on the runways. Tactile materials like fur or multilayered fabrics add even more dimension to an already exaggerated shape.

Cushnie et Ochs

Vera Wang

Etro

Fendi

Vera Wang

Etro

Paris streets

Forward-thinking designers appropriate the shape for directional belts. Whether rendered in silver-plated metal or
polished leather, the peplum belt is versatile and statement-making, adding drama to otherwise buttoned-up,
ladylike looks.

Lanvin in L'Officiel 1954 n.387-88

Thierry Mugler

John Galliano SS94

Paris City Wrap F/W 12 > Hourglass | Copenhagen Trade Show Wrap F/W 12: Womens Apparel > Peplum Power |
Retail Comp: The Peplum Jacket | Trend Tracker: Power Player > Tops | Runway Roadmap S/S 13: Terra Moderne
> Pep Gals | Runway Roadmap S/S 13: Fashletes > Featherweights | S/S 13 Runway Roadmap: Crystal Lab >
Complex Craft | S/S 12 Runway Must-Haves: Womens Apparel > Pepped Up | Classifications S/S 12: Woven Tops
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