Introduction:

The Plain weave is the simplest of the weaves and the most common. It consists of interlacing warp and
weft yarns in a pattern of over one and under one. Plain weave is obtained by raising all even numbered
warp ends at one pick and raising all the odd numbered once at the other pick. It means threads
interlacing in alternate order.
Features of plain weave:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

Thread interlacing in alternate order.

The repeat contains two ends and two picks.
Both side of the weave are identical.
Each thread gives maximum amount of support to the adjust thread.
Made from all kind of textile raw materials and yearns i.e. cotton, jute, man-made fibers etc.
It comprises a high production of the total output of oven fabrics.
Two heald shafts are sufficient to produce plain weave.

From sample:
Repeat size: 2 2
EPI = 23
PPI = 22
Warp count = 18/2 Ne
Weft count = 22 Ne
Warp crimp =

Straight yarn lengthYarnlengthfabric

100
Yarnlength fabric

3.05 cm3 cm
100
3 cm

0.5
100
3

= 1.66 %
Weft crimp = Similarly 2.1%

Fabric construction =

GSM =

37 22
56
18
12
2

22 1.021
+
( 37 1.0166
) 23.25
18 /2
12

= (4.15 + 1.87) 23.25

= 140.66 g/m2

Use of plain weave: It is used for structures, which range from very heavy and coarse canvas and
blankets made of thick yarns to the lightest and finest cambries and muslins made in extremely fine yarns.

Introduction:
The second basic weave pattern used in manufacturing fabrics is the twill weave. This weave is
characterized by diagonal lines or ribs (twill lines) on the face, and often on the back, of the fabric. The
face diagonal can vary from reclining twill, with a low l4 0 angle, to steep twill, with a 750 angle. A twill
angle of 450 is considered to be medium diagonal or regular twill; it is the most common.
Feature of Twill Weave:
The main feature of twill weave are mention bellow:1. Diagonal line can be seen on the faced of the fabric.
2. Twill line may be from lower lift to upper right (Z-twill) or from lower right to upper lift(S-twill)
corner.
3. Smaller repeat twill is (3). It means take at least end and three picks produce twill weave.
4. Three or more heald shaft is required for shedding.
5. Generally straight draft is used for twill weave besides this pointed or v draft is also used.
6. Appearance it will design can be seen from both rides the fabric.
7. Diagonal lines run at angle vary between 150 - 750 but in a continuous or regular twill is 450.

From sample:
Repeat size: 4 4
EPI = 123
PPI = 59
Warp count = 19 Ne
Weft count = 18 Ne

Fabric construction =

123 59
19 12

Uses of Twill Weave:

Twill weaves find a wide range of application such as drill cloth, khaki uniforms, denim cloth,
blankets, shirting, hangings and soft furnishings.

Introduction:
Satin is the third basic weave of the woven fabrics. In basic construction, the satin weave is
similar to the twill weave but generally uses from five to as many as twelve harnesses, producing
a five to twelve-shaft construction. It differs in appearance from the twill weave because the
diagonal of the satin weave is not visible; it is purposely interrupted in order to contribute to the
flat, smooth, Lustrous surface desired. There is no visible design on the face of the fabric because
the yarns that are to be thrown to the sudace are greater in number and finer in count than the
yarns that form the reverse of the fabric.
Feature of Stain Weave:

1. They are either warp or weft faced weaves.

2. Have no prominent weave structures.
3. Only one binding point in each end or pick
4. No continuous twill lines
5. Have poor seam strength due to thread mobility
6. More thread density is possible in warp and weft
7. More mass per unit area is possible
8. Have less binding points and more float lengths
9. Use of move numbers (intervals of selection) is necessary to construct these
weaves.
From sample:
Repeat size: 8 8
Move number = 5
EPI = 160
PPI = 75
Warp count = 34 Ne

Weft count = 26 Ne
Warp crimp =

Straight yarn lengthYarnlengthfabric

100
Yarnlength fabric

1} 100
= 1.125 - 1

= 2.5%

Weft crimp = Similarly 4.5 %

Fabric construction =

GSM =

37 22
56
18
12
2

( 160341.025 + 75 1.045
) 23.25
26

= 334 g/m2

Introduction:
These weaves are generated by introducing a step into the design after a certain number of ends or picks.
At the step, every thread changes from up to down or vice versa. If the original weave is not doublefaced, this means that, at every step, a warp twill changes into a weft twill or vice versa. It is also
produced by the combination of S - twill and Z - twill like zig-zag weave but it is not create a point. It is
also divided into two groups depending on the change of the direction of twill line, such as:
Horizontal herringbone twill weave, and
Vertical herringbone twill weaves.
Sample 1:
Repeat size = (16 8)
EPI = 40
PPI = 33
Warp Count = 9 Ne
Weft Count = 7 Ne
Warp Crimp = 3%
Weft Crimp = 5%
Fabric Specification =

GSM =

40 33
51
9 7

33 1.05
+
( 40 1.03
) 23.25
9
7

= 270 g/m2

Sample 2:
Repeat size = ()
EPI = 130
PPI = 82
Warp Count = 19 Ne
Weft Count = 21 Ne
Warp Crimp = 3%
Weft Crimp = 4%
Fabric Specification =

GSM =

130 82
57
31 Tex 31 Tex

23.25
( 130191.03 + 82 1.05
21 )

= 257 g/m2

Introduction:
This is a derivative of twill weave. Diamond design is developed on the basis of pointed draft principle. It
is build-up by the combination of vertical and horizontal zig-zag weave. The repeat size of this design is
also calculated from the regular or base twill design. In this case the number of both warp and weft yarns
in this weave are double of the number of warp and weft yarn of base twill respectively. For example, if
the repeat size of basic regular twill is 4 4, than the repeat size of this design is 8 8. It is a reversible
design. So it may be divided into two equal parts in both vertical and horizontal axis. Pointed or Vdrafting system is used to produce this design.

From sample:
Repeat size = (24 29)
EPI = 42
PPI = 50
Warp count = 13/2 Ne
Weft count = 12 Ne
Warp crimp = 2%
Weft crimp = 3%
Fabric construction =

GSM =

42 50
28
13
12
2

50 1.021
+
( 42 1.0166
) 23.25
13 /2
12

= (6.65 + 4.375) 23.25

= 256.33 g/m2

Use of Diamond Twill Weave:

It is used to design Towel fabric structure.

Used in the design of bed cover and pillow cover.
Also used in table cloth design.

Introduction:
The term is applied to weaves which resemble honey comb cells. The cellular formations appear square in
the cloth. They are formed by some ends and picks interlacing tighter than others and therefore
developing a higher tension. Usually single cloths are made by progressively lengthening and shortening
both warp and weft floats to form ridges and hollows on a square pattern, to give a cellular appearance.
The term is applied to weaves which resemble honey comb cells. The cellular formations appear square in
the cloth. There are two types of honey comb weaves, such as Ordinary honeycomb and Brighton
honeycomb.
Feature of Honeycomb Weave:
The main features of ordinary honeycomb are as follows

Surface of produced fabric is rough.

Similar appearance or effect formed in both sides of the fabric.
In repeat size, ends and picks are equal or unequal.
Repeat size is multiple of two.
Smallest repeat size is 6 4.
One cell in each repeat.
V draft or pointed draft is found.
Simple construction

From sample:
Repeat size = (8 8)

EPI = 46
PPI = 50
Warp count = 13/2 Ne
Weft count = 21/2 Ne
Warp crimp = 2.5%
Weft crimp = 4%
GSM =

50 1.04
+
23.25
( 42 1.025
13
23 )

= (3.626 + 2.26) 23.25

= 136.84 g/m2