Cups and Their Customs

Hi
H
i
.
Wmm
\CA
1-
Digitized by the Internet Archive

in
2011 with funding from
Boston Library Consortium
Member
Libraries
http://www.archive.org/details/cupstheircustomsOOrobe
PUIg
F
The Third
or
Fourth
C^oW-
London Published by John Van Voorst Paternoster Row.
CUPS AND THEIR CUSTOMS.
"
Touch brim
And
Our wassail
Comrade
"
Touch
touch foot
the wine is red,
leaps to the lips of the free
foot
true
!
is
quickly said,
I drink to thee
touch brim
Brothers in sorrow or
who
cares ?
who
cares
glee,
Griory or danger each gallantly shares
Comrade
"
I drink to thee
Touch brim touch foot once again, old friend,

Though the present our last draught be
We were boys we are men we 'Jl be true to the end
!
Brother
"
I drink to thee
SECOND EDITION.
LONDON:
JOHN TAN YOOEST, PATERNOSTER ROW.
MDCCCLXIX.
INTED BY TAYLOR AND FRANCIS,

RED LION COURT, FLEET STREET.
PREFACE.
The
principal object of these pages
a collection of recipes
pound
for the
is
to furnish
brewing of com-
drinks, technically called
" Cups/'
all
of
which have been selected with the most scrupulous attention to the rules of gastronomy,
and approved by repeated
their virtues tested
These we are inclined
trials.
from a belief
adopted,
of
it
a great
which
at
that, if they
to
put into type,
were more generally
would be the means
of getting rid
stereotyped
deal of that
present
and
sway
holds
at
drinking
the
festive
we have
endeavoured to simplify the matter as much as
possible, adding such hints and remarks as may
prove serviceable to the uninitiated, whilst we
have discarded a goodly number of modern comboards
of England.
In doing
pounds
as unpalatable
and
this
this,
unscientific.
As, in
age of progress, most things are raised to
the position of a science,
Bacchanology,
if
we
see
no reason why
the term please our readers,
should not hold a respectable
place,
and be
PREFACE.
IV
due mead of praise
entitled to its
we have ventured
of introduction,
so,
by way
to
take
cursory glance at the customs which have been
attached to drinking from the earliest periods to

This, however,
the present time.
no elaborate
ment
we
set forth as
but only as an arrange-
history,
of such scraps as have from time to time
our way, and have helped us to form
fallen in
ideas of the social
We
manners of bygone
times.
have selected a sprig of Borage for our
by reason
frontispiece,
of the usefulness of that
pleasant herb in the flavouring of cups.
where than
Else-
in England, plants for flavouring are
So much are they
accounted of rare virtue.
esteemed in the East, that an anti-Brahminical
showing the worthlessness
writer,
superstitions, says, "
They command you
down a living and sweet

may crown a lifeless stone."
ing-herbs
one;
for
is
the reverse of
we
warmed and
And
here
crop them
life
Hindu
of
to cut
basil-plant, that
you
Our use of flavourthis justly condemned

that
hearts
may be
that,
although
lengthened.
we would remark
our endeavours are directed towards the resuscitation of better
times than those
we
live
in,
times of heartier customs and of more genial
ways,
we
raise
no lamentation
for the departure
"
!;
PREFACE.
Hoffmann von
of the golden age, in the spirit of
who
Fallersleben,
sings
" Would our bottles but grow deeper,
Did our wine but once get cheaper,

Then on earth there might unfold
The golden
times, the age of gold
" But not for us
we are commanded
To go with temperance even-handed.
The golden age is for the dead
;
We
've got the
" For, ah
And
And
is
may
they
drink that
dead
tion.
our bottles
still
decline,
daily dearer grows our wine,

flat
Faith
This
paper age instead
and void our pockets
soon there
'11
fall
be no times at all!"
rather the cry of those
who
live that
who
drink, than of our wiser selves,
we may
to the
live.
In truth,
we
are not
charms of other drinks, in modera-
The apple has had
a share of our favour,
being recommended to our literary notice by an

olden poet
" Praised and caress'd, the tuneful Phillips sung
Of cyder famed, whence
first his
laurels sprung
and we have looked with a friendly eye upon

the wool of a porter-pot, and involuntarily apostrophized
it
in the
" Rise then,
my
words of the old stanza,
Ituse,
The mighty charms
and
to the
world proclaim
of porter's potent
name,"
PREFACE.
VI
without the least jealous feeling being aroused
employment
at the
of
ought to be secured
cup-drink,
moral
solely for
and good,
little
qualities, ever
Muse whose
humanity
labours
;
but a
will, for its social
and
hold the chief place in our
likings.
Lastly, although
to
we
be
first-rate
we know many
of our friends
judges of pleasant beverages, yet
believe that but few of
them
are acquainted
with their composition or history in times past.

Should, therefore, any hints
we may have thrown
out assist in adding to the conviviality of the

festive board,
in vain
we
feel
and we beg
bagatelle to
all
we
have scribbled
shall not
especially to dedicate this
those good souls
who have been
taught by experience that a firm adhesion to the

" pigskin," and a rattling galopade to the music
of the twanging horn and the melody of the
merry Pack,
ment
of
all
is
the best incentive to the enjoy-
good things, especially good appetite,
good fellowship, and
Good Health.
And, although
"We
'11
alone,
drain one draught in
Memory
of
Banquet
past.
many
a joyous
PBEEACE
TO
THE SECOND EDITION.
The Second Edition of this book

much additional matter, all of which
derived
from notes collected by one of
original authors of the
death
is
is
contains
has been
the
work, whose untimely
mourned, and whose genial hospitality
remembered, by very many
greatly increase the usefulness of the
compounders of Cups.
The
friends.
compiler believes that the additions
made
book
will
to all

"
Then
shall our names,
Familiar in their mouths as household words,
Be
As
in their flowing- cups freshly remember'd."
in all countries
and in
all
as a necessary institution, so
by
variably accompanied
But
monies.
we were
fashion,
we
find
it
has been in-
peculiar forms and cere-
in endeavouring to trace these,
once beset with the

If
its
ages drinking has existed
we
are at
difficulty of fixing a starting-point.
inclined to treat the subject in a rollicking
we could
find a high antiquity
ready-made to
our hands in the apocryphal doings of mythology, and
might quote the nectar of the gods

potations
for
we
u When Mars, the
He
But
laid aside his

it is
are told that
God of War,
helm and
of
Venus
shield,
If
first
did think,
and mix'd a drop of drink."
our intention, at the risk of being considered
pedantic, to discourse on customs

real.
as the first of all
we
more tangible and
are believers in the existence of pre- Adamite
man, the records he has
and stone implements,

be rendered available
left us,
in the shape of flint
are far too difficult of solution to
for drinking-purposes, or to assist
us in forming any idea of his inner
life
we must
Z
therefore
commence our
history at the time
u when God made choice to rear
His mighty champion, strong above compare,

Whose drink was only from the limpid brook."
Nor need we pause

primseval draught
for
on the quality of this

a Adam's ale " has always been
to dilate
an accepted world-wide beverage, even before drinkingfountains were invented, and will continue
till
the end
of time to form the foundation of every other drinkable
compound.
Neither was
it
necessary for the historian
which our grand pro-
to inform us of the vessel from
common
genitor quaffed his limpid potion, since our
us that the hollowed palm of his hand
sense would
tell
would serve
as the readiest
and most probable means.
and apply it to
"
cup/' we must introduce a singular
our modern word
To
trace the origin of drinking-vessels,
historical fact, which,
a circuitous route,
must go back
to a
it
though leading us to
by rather
it
would not be proper to omit.
high antiquity
derivation of the word,
inasmuch
if
We
we would seek the
as its Celtic root
is
nearly in a mythologic age, so far as the written history

of the
Celts
is
concerned
custom from which the

goblets
is
of a slain
in use
up
though
signification
taken (that of drinking
enemy)
is
the
barbarous
of our cups or
mead from
the skull
proved by chronicles to have been
From
to the eleventh century.
this, a
goblet for containing liquor was called the

SJcoll,
cup or
Skull or
a root-word nearly retained in the Icelandic Ska!,
Skaal, and Skyllde, the
German
Skaalj and, coming to our
own
Schale, the
Danish
shores, in the Cornish
So ale-goblets in Celtic were termed Kalt-skaal;
Skala.
and, though applied in other ways, the word lingers in
the Highland Scotch as Skiel (a tub); and in the Oi'k-
From
neys the same word does duty for a flagon.

root,
though more immediately derived from
this
Scutella,
a concave vessel, through the Italian Scodella and the
French Ecuelle
word
porringer),
(a
we have
the homestead
no
lack,
in old chronicles, of examples illustrative of that
most
used in England.
Skillet still
There
is
barbarous practice of converting the skull of an enemy

a drinking-cup.
into
Warnefrid,
Gestis Longobard./ says,
in
having carried away his head, converted
which kind of cup with us
ing-vessel,
The same thing
is
work
his
'
De
" Albin slew Cuminum, and
said of the Boii
is
it
into a drink-
called Schala.-"
by Livy,
of the Scy-
thians by Herodotus, of the Scordisci by Rufus Festus,

of the Gauls by Diodorus Si cuius, and of the Celts by
Silius Italicus.
Hence
it is
that
Hagnar Lodbrog,
in his
death-song, consoles himself with the reflection, " I shall
soon drink beer from hollow cups
made
of skulls."
In more modern times, the middle ages
we
find historic illustration of a
where Skoll was applied in another though
Thus
is
it
for
allied sense.
one of the leaders in the Gowryan
said of
conspiracy " that he did drink his skoll to
Duke/' meaning
pledged
scoll
that the health of that
and again,
passed about
example,
new use of the word,
at a festive table,
and, as a
still
my
Lord
nobleman was
we read
that the
better illustration,
Calderwood says that drinking the king's skole meant

the drinking of his cup in honour of him^ which, he
b2
4
adds,
should always
modern
be drank
of various materials,
all
of which
have,
regard to idea, a preferable and more
we
tion than the one from which

for
many
centuries past, gold
more
In
standing.
times, however, drinking-cups have been

at
formed
Thus,
derive the term.
and
in
least
humane foundaevery
silver vessels of
form and pattern have been introduced, either with or

without
and with or without handles.
lids,
Hanap
the
is
name
of a small drinking-cup of the
15th and 16th centuries, made usually of

standing upon
feet.
They were made
silver,
gilt,
Augsburgh
at
and Nuremberg.
In an old French translation of Genesis, we find
v. 5, c. xliv.
Hanap mon
" Le Hanap que vous
Seignor, et quel
il
at
avez amblee est le
solort deleter,
male chose
avez fait/' relating to the silver cup Joseph ordered to
In some Scotch songs a
be put in his brother's sack.
drinking-cup
called cogne or cog
is
this
spelt in different parts of Scotland cogie,
word
and
is
coig.
also
This
word may be compared with coculum (medical Latin

a hollow
wooden
and the Welsh
vessel), also
with the old
German
for
kouch,
caivg, a basin.
The Flemish drinking-cups

centuries were called vidricomes,
of the 16th and 17th

i.
e.
The bell-shaped drinking-glasses
" come-agains."
of the sixteenth
century are specially worthy of observation
and there
are three very good specimens in the Bernal Collection

at
the South-Kensington
said to
be German, and
mounting
of the
German
Museum, one
the
of which
others Venetian.
glass
consists of
is
The
a hollow

sphere in
silver,
by a small
which encloses a dice and
is
surmounted
is
To the mounting
statuette of Fortune.
another of these glasses

glasses will
attached a
of
These
little bell.
stand in the reversed position only, and
were of course intended to be emptied
at
one draught,
the dice being shaken or the bell tinkled as a finale to the
proceeding.
There is also a curious cup in the possession
of theYintners'Company, representing a milk-maid carry-
ing a pail on her head. This pail

contrived that the uninitiated,
invariably receive
In the
last
on a
is set
swivel, andis so
when attempting to
drink,
contents on their neck or chest.
its
century
was very fashionable
it
to con-
vert the egg of the ostrich or the polished shell of the
cocoa-nut, set in silver, into a drink ing-vessel.
Many
of
varieties
tankards were formerly in use,
among which we may mention

Whistle-tankard,
the
the Peg-tankard and
the latter of which
structed with a whistle attached
could be sounded
(from which, in
"
when
all
to the brim,
probability, originated the saying,
rare instances, the
whistle
for
own note when
it
")
or, in
was so ingeniously
contrived at the bottom of the vessel that

its
which
the cup required replenishing
you want more, you must whistle
If
more
was con-
it
would sound
the tankard was empty.
The Peg-
tankard was an ordinary-shaped mug, having in the

inside a
to
row of eight pins, one above another, from top
bottom
was
a gill
this
tankard held two quarts, so that there
of ale,
i. e.
half a pint, Winchester measure,
between each pin.
The
empty the tankard
to the first
first
person
who drank was
to
peg or pin, the second

was to empty
making them
next pin, and so on
to the
many measures
were therefore so
all
the pins
to the compotators,
drink alike; and as the space between
each pin was such as to contain a large draught of
company would be very
liquor,
the
method
to get drunk, especially
short of the pin, or
For
again.
nons,
made
liable
when,
by
this
they drank
if
beyond it, they were obliged
to drink
Archbishop Anselm^s Ca-
this reason, in
in the Council in
London
in 1102, priests
are enjoined not to go to drinking-bouts, nor to drink
This shows the antiquity of the invention,
to pegs.
which, at
least, is as old as
There
the Conquest.
is
cup now in the possession of Henry Howard, Esq., of
Corby
a.
Castle,
Becket.
scription
which
It is
is
made
said to have belonged to
" Drink thy wine with

are engraved the words u Sobrii
round the edge of
joy;" and on the
lid
Thomas
of ivory, set in gold, with an init,
estote," with the initials T. B. interlaced with a mitre,
Thomas h
from which circumstance
it is
Becket, but in reality
work of the 16th century.
Whitaker, in his
'
is
attributed to
History of Craven/ describing a
drinking-horn belonging to
the Lister family, says,
" Wine
drank out of the mazer-
in
England was
first
bowl, afterwards out of the bugle-horn.
The mazer-
bowls were made from maple-wood, so named from the
German Maser,
sesses a very perfect

II.
(1377-99).
spotted wood.
Mr. Shirley pos-
mazer-bowl of the time of Bichard
The bowl
is
of light mottled
highly polished, with a broad rim of silver

the exterior of which are the following lines
gilt,
:
wood
round

4<
In the name of the Trinite

Fill the
kup and drinke
Mr. Milner, in ' Archeologia/
to
me."
vol. xi. p.
maple-wood tankard, belonging
to
411, describes a
Lord Arundel,
as of
Saxon workmanship coeval withEdgar,A.D.800,who
also
passed a law, on the suggestion of St.Dunstan, to prevent

excessive drinking,
by ordering cups
to
be marked into
spaces by pegs, that the quantity taken might be limited.
considerable
number
tankards also exist in the
of these ancient maple-wood
Museum at the Castle of Rosen-
They w ere formerly made by the Norwegian peaT
burg.
sants during the long winter nights
and
their style of
ornament cannot be older than the 16th century.
Contemporaneous with mazer-bowls were others
called
Piggins, Naggins, Whiskins, Kannes, Pottles, Jakkes,
Pronnet-cups and Beakers.

Silver bowls
latter
were next introduced; and about the
end of Elizabeth's reign these were superseded,
wine grew dearer and
The
earliest glasses
and no mention
is
men were
used
made
at
as
temperate, by glasses
banquets were Venetian
of glasses at state banquets
before the time of Elizabeth.
In the
latter half of the last century, beer
ally carried
from the
was usu-
cellar to the table in large tan-
kards made of leather, called Blackjacks, some of which

are
still
their
to be found, as also smaller ones
more
refined in
workmanship, and having either an entire lining
of silver, or a rim of silver to drink from,
was customary
to
inscribe the
name
together with his trade or occupation.
on which
of the
it
owner,
" Tygs " were
two-handled drinking-cups of the time of Elizabeth,

rudely formed of Staffordshire fire-clay called " Tyg."
At
the end of the last century, glasses were manufactured
of a taper form, like a tall champagne-glass, but not less
than between two and three
was considered a great
feet in height,
rally consisting of strong ale, without
glass
from the
liquor,
sion,
and without
lips,
a somewhat
from which
difficult
removing the
spilling
any of the
task towards the conclu-
on account of the distance the liquid had to pass
along the glass before reaching
The
earliest record
Genesis, where
we
we have
are told, "
its
receptacle.
of wine is in the
Noah began
Book
evident he
knew
by pressing the
the use that might be
juice
however, deceived in
ff
are told,
"When the
from
its
it
made
and preserving
strength by
its
of
be an hus-
to
bandman, and he planted a vineyard," from which
we
it
feat to drain the contents, gene-
it is
of the fruit
it
he was,
sweetness
for,
he drank of the wine, and was drunken."
offspring of
Noah
dispersed into the different
countries of the world, they carried the vine with them,
and taught the use which might be made of

was the
first
and thence
country to which the
it
gift
it.
Asia
was imparted
quickly spread to Europe and Africa, as
Homer
we
learn from the Iliad of
we
also learn that, at the time of the
from which book

Trojan war, part of
the commerce consisted in the freight of wines.
In
order to arrive at customs and historical evidence less
remote, we must take refuge, as historians have done

before us, in the inner
Greece and Rome,
life
of the two great empires of
among whom we
find the ceremonies
attached to drinking were by no means sparse; and as the
Romans
copied most of their social manners from the
among
Greeks, the formalities observed

in drinking differ but
the two nations
In public assemblies the
little.
wine-cup was never raised to the
without previously-
lips
invoking a blessing from a supposed good deity, from
which custom
days took
a
its
probable that the grace-cup of later
it is
origin
cup was quaffed
and
at the conclusion of their feast,
to their
good genius, termed " pocu-
lum boni Dei," which corresponds
in the present day

with the u coup d'etrier " of the French, the c ' dock un
dorish" of the Highland Scotch, and the " partingpot " of our
own
country.
The Romans
drank the healths of their Emperors

toasts they
seldom forgot " absent friends," though we
have no record of their drinking to

St. Peter's."
to elect,
also frequently
and among other
It
was customary
by throwing the
bibendi," to act
much
dice, a
in the
c<
all
power
to
same way
as our
modern
down
to the
rules to be observed in drinking, with the
punish such as did not conform to them.
The gods having been

feast
guest,
drank his
first
propitiated, the master of the
cup to the most distinguished
and then handed
cup to him, in which
a full
he acknowledged the compliment
the cup was then
passed round by the company, invariably from

right,
round
person termed " arbiter
toast-master, his business being to lay
company the
friends
at their entertainments
left to
and always presented with the right hand
some occasions each person had

servant
replenished
as
soon
as
his
it
own
on
cup, which a
was emptied, as
b 5
10
The
described in the feast of Homer's heroes.
vessels
from which they drank were generally made of wood,

decorated
with
gold and
and crowned with
silver,
garlands, as also were their heads, particular flowers
and herbs being

all
selected,
which were supposed

In some
noxious vapours from the brain.
cups were formed entirely of gold,
silver, or
keep
to
cases their
bronze.
beautiful example of a bronze cup was found in Wilt-
having the names of
shire,
inscription,
chase,
five
Roman towns
from which
it
has been imagined that
it
belonged
to a club or society of persons, probably hunters,
may have been one
of their prizes
made from the horns

monly drunk out
of small
among
the Greeks and
juice of the grape
they also used cups
glasses
called
"cyaths,"
The
chief beve-
pint.
Romans was
the fermented
but the particular form of
it
is
"vinumAlbanum" was
matter of some uncertainty. The
probably a kind of Frontignac, and of
most esteemed by the Romans,
and
The wines were com-
of animals.
which held just the twelfth of a

rage
an
as
and richly decorated with scenes of the
all
wines was
though Horace speaks
in such glowing terms of Falernian, which was a strong
and rough wine, and was not
fit
for drinking
been kept ten years; and even then
mix honey with
it
to soften
it.
it
till it
had
was customary to
Homer
speaks of a
famous wine of Maronea in Thrace, which would bear
mixing with twenty times the quantity of water,
though
drink
it
it
was a
common
practice
in its pure state.
among
Salt water
al-
the natives to
was commonly
used by the Romans to dilute their wine, which they

considered improved
This custom
it.
is
its
11
flavour, having previously boiled
said to have originated in the efforts
of a slave to prevent detection, who, having robbed his
master's wine-cask, filled
The Romans
tar,
myrrh,
wood,
up with
smoke
aloes,
also
salt water.
also mixed with their wine assafcetida,
worm-
pepper, spikenard, poppies,
almonds, and cypress
cassia, milk, chalk, bitter
and they
it.
it
exposed their wines to the action of
in a sort of kiln, which thickened
and matured
These mixed wines were taken in a peculiar kind
of vessel called a " murrhine cup," which was said to
impart a peculiar flavour to them
stance of which these cups were
made
is
fair to
wood
which
made
surmise they were
similar to the " bitter cup

.
made from the wood
is
The customary
dilution
the
not known,
is
of
it
some aromatic
" of the present day,
of quassia tree.
among
to have consisted of one part of
water,
and though the sub-
the Greeks appears
wine to three parts of
word " nympha " being used
many
in
classical passages for water, as for
example in a Greek
epigram the
which
lights in
literal translation of
is,
"He
de-
mingling with three Nymphs, making himself
the fourth ;" this alludes to the custom of mixing three

parts of water with one of wine.
of Cyprus, Lesbos,
In Greece, the wines
and Ohio were much esteemed; those
of Lesbos are especially
mentioned by Horace
wholesome and agreeable,
as in
Ode
17,
Book
" Hie innocentis pocula Lesbii

Duces sub umbra."
" Beneath the shade you here
And
may
dine,
quaff the harmless Lesbian wine."
as
I.
being
12
The
wine-making
origin of
Persians,
who have
is
also claimed
a tradition of
its
by the
accidental dis-
The monarch being
covery by their king Jernsheed.
fond of grapes had placed a quantity in a large vessel in

his cellar for future use.
vessel
afterwards the
and, being very acid, were be-
state of fermentation,
lieved
Some time
was opened, and the grapes were found in a
by the king
cordingly.
to be poisonous,
and marked
ac-
lady of his harem being racked by pain,
determined to poison herself, for which purpose she
drank some of the grape-juice
in fact, got very drunk.
After sleeping a considerable time, she awoke perfectly

well, and,
being pleased with the result, managed in
time to finish
all
The monarch discovered
the poison.
what she had done, and thence took the hint
own advantage.
The Armenians
Noah
planted his
spot where
claim the origin of wine

first
vineyard near Erivan,
Noah and
his
for his
because
upon the
family resided before the
Deluge.
The wines
tion,
of Chio, however, held the greatest reputa-
which was such that the inhabitants of that island
were thought to have been the
and taught the use of
it
first
who planted the
to other nations.
vine
These wines
were held in such esteem and were of so high a value

at
Rome,
that in the time of Lucullus, at their greatest
entertainments, they drank only one cup of them, at

the end of the feast
but as sweetness and delicacy of
flavour were their prevailing qualities, this final cup
may have been
taken as a liqueur.
Both the Greeks

and the Romans kept

jars,
their
made with narrow
13
wine in large earthenware
necks,
swollen
bodies,
and
pointed at the bottom, by which they were fixed into

the
earth
these
Amphorse, though
called
vessels,
generally of earthenware, are mentioned by
Among
being constructed of gold and of stone.
Romans
it
was customary,
at the
Homer
time of
as
the
filling their
wine-vessels, to inscribe
upon them the name of the
consul under whose
they were
office
thus supply-
filled,
ing them with a good means of distinguishing their

vintages and pointing out the excellence of particular
ones,
much
in the
vintages of '20,
same way
celebrated wine which took
whose consulate
as
34, or '41.
it
its
we now speak of the
Thus, Pliny mentions a
name from Opimius,
in
was made, and was preserved good
to his time (a period of nearly
200
years)
The
vessel
used for carrying the wine to the table was called
Ampulla, being a small bulging bottle covered with

leather
and having two handles, which
to consider the original type of the

bottel," the inventor of
which
is
it would be fair
famous " leathern
so highly eulogized in
the old song,

" I wish that his soul in heaven
Who
first
may
dwell,
invented the leathern bottel."
The wine was frequently cooled by keeping the

vessels in
flasks,
oil
snow; and
it
was brought to the table in
which, instead of being corked, had a
poured into the necks to exclude the
little
fine
air.
Although the ancients were well acquainted with the

excellence of wine, they were not ignorant of the dangers
14
attending the abuse of
Salencus passed a law for-
it.
bidding the use of wine, upon pain of death, except in

case of sickness
and the inhabitants of Marseilles and
Miletus prohibited the use of

in the early ages,
till
At Rome,
women.
young persons
not permitted to drink wiue

thirty,
to
it
of high birth were
they attained the age of
and to women the use of
it
was absolutely
for-
bidden; but Seneca complains of the violation of this law,
and says that in his day the women valued themselves
upon carrying
excess of wine to as great a height as the
" Like tkero," says he, " they pass
most robust men.

whole nights
with a
at tables, and,
full glass of
UDmixed
wine in their hands, they glory in vying with them, and,

if
they can, in overcoming them/''
This worthy philo-
sopher, however, appears not to have considered excess
men
of drinking in
advise men of
now and then.
power
a vice
for
he goes so
high-strained minds to get intoxicated
"Not/J
says he, "that
may
it
but only relax our overstrained
us,
far as to
Soon afterwards he adds,

in wine a vice
Much
prove drunkenness to be
"Do
sooner
you
call
over-
faculties/''
Cato's excess
may you
be able to
a virtue, than Cato
to
be
history of wine was written in Latin
by
vicious/'
The
first
Bacci in the 16th century; and in 1775 Sir Edward
Barry composed his observations on " Wines of the

Ancients/''
curious.
whose authority, though not
After
and the best

of
reliable,
is
him came Dr. Henderson on Wines
treatise of the present
Wine by Cyrus Bedding.
To
day
all
is
the History
wine-keepers and
CUPS AXD THEIR CUSTOMS.

consumers
work
would recommend a perusal of
called
15
'
little
The Wine Guide/ by Frederick C. Mills
(1861).
Let us, with these casual remarks, leave the Greeks
and Romans, with
old
jovial
Horace
at their head,
quaffing his cup of rosy Falernian, his brow smothered

in evergreens (as
was his wont), and pass on
to our
immediate ancestry, the Anglo-Saxon race
not
getting, however, that the ancient Britons
had
veritable
cup
honeyed drink,
of
for-
their
Metheglin,
called
may be said indeed to have had a still

greater antiquity, if Ben Johnson is right in pronouncing
though
it
this
to have
been the favourite drink of Demosthenes
while composing his excellent and mellifluous orations.
The Anglo-Saxons not only enjoyed

but
conducted
them
with
ceremony, although, as
want of
earliest
civilization,
may
their potations,
readily be conceived,
excess prevailed.
Saxon romances we learn that "
mind of Hrothgar
pomp and
considerable
In one of our
it
came
to build a great mead-hall,
to be the chief palace
and, further on,
office
he
that in his
to the
which was
we
find this
palace spoken of as "the beer-hall, where the
performed his
from
Thane
hand bare the
twisted ale-cup, from which he poured the blight, sweet

liquor, while
the
boasted of their
when
poet
sang serene, and the guests
exploits.''''
Furthermore we learn that,
the queen entered, she served out the liquor,
offering the cup to her lord

to the guests.
first
and master, and afterwards
In this romance, " the dear or precious
drinking-cup, from which they quaffed the mead/'
is
16
also
spoken of
and
as these worthies
had the peculiar
custom of burying the drinking-cups with their dead,
we may conclude they were held

same time
at the
it
in
high esteem, while
gives us an opportunity of actually
seeing the vessels of which the romance informs us

in
for
Saxon graves, or barrows, they are now frequently
found.
They were
twisted pattern
principally
most prevailing shape.

discovered,
made
of glass
and the
alluded to appears to have been the

Several other forms have been
of which, however, are so formed with
all
rounded bottoms that they will not stand by themselves
quaffed
consequently their contents must

before
replacing
them on the
probable that from this peculiar shape
modern word " tumbler

to the Prince Regent,
performed
off
the
at
have been
table.
we
It
is
derive our
" and, if so, the freak attributed
and since
his time, occasionally
our Universities, of breaking the stems
wine-glasses in order to ensure
their being
emptied of the contents, was no new scheme,
it
having
been employed by our ancestors in a more legitimate
and
less expensive
manner.
We
Anglo-
also find, in
Saxon graves, pitchers from which the drink was poured,

differing but little
from those now in common
use, as
well as buckets in which the ale was conveyed from the

cellar.
That drinking-cups among the Anglo-Saxons
were held in high esteem, and were probably of considerable value, there can be
no doubt, from the frequent
mention made of their being bequeathed

in proof of which, from
among many
after death
others,
we may
quote the instance of the Mercian king Witlaf giving

to the
Abbey
the elder
of Crowlancl the
horn of his
monks may drink from
their benedictions
17
it
on
table,
and in
festivals,
remember sometimes the
" that
sonl of the
donor/' as well as the one mentioned in Gale's
'
History
of Ramsey/ to the Abbey of which place the Lady

Ethelgiva presented u two silver cnps for the use of the
brethren in the refectory, in order that, while drink

served in them,
my memory may
printed on their hearts/'
is
be more firmly im-
Another curious proof of the
estimation in which they were held
is,
that in pictures of
warlike expeditions, where representations of the valuable

spoils are given,
we invariably
trayed most prominently.
of the
and mead, though wine was also

but wine is spoken of as u not the drink
Anglo-Saxons were
used by them
find drinking-vesseis por-
The ordinary drinks
ale
of children or of fools, but of elders
and wise men
:"
and
the scholar says he does not drink wine, because he
not rich enough to buy
we may
from which, en passant,
it;
notice that scholars were not rich
men
even in
we
fear,
have but
those days, and up to the present time,

little
is
improved their worldly
estate.
We
that the Saxons were in the habit of

drinks, and,
beyond the
fact
cannot learn
compounding
of their pledging each
other with the words " Drinc-heel " and " Wsess-hsel,"
accompanying the words with a

strelsy
kiss,
and that min-
formed a conspicuous adjunct to their drinking-
festivities,
we can obtain but
knowledge of the
The Vedic " cup-drink " was
u sweet, honied,
described as being
little
customs they pursued.
" Soma/' which
is
sharp and well-flavoured," the liquor of the Gods.
One

18
many hymns
of the
Vedas in
in the
its
may
praise
be
thus translated
We have drunk the
And
Soma
are entered into Light,
So that we know the Gods.
What
What
can
now an enemy do
Against thee and
us,
'
this
Domestic Manners and
are
"
much
points,
Sentiments of the Middle
From
the
Saxon drinking-
and other
Harleian
the scarcity of materials descrip-
tive of the social habits of the

little
God ?
and other
illustrations of
from
sketched
manuscripts.
effect
from Mr. Wright's excellent book of
learnt
Ages/ where some good

scenes
thou immortal
For further information on
may be
to us
can the malice of any mortal
Normans, we glean but
as to their customs of drinking
in all probability
they differed but slightly from those of the Saxons,
though
at this
time wine became of more frequent use,
the vessels from which
shaped, and generally
it
made
was quaffed being bowlof glass.
Will of Malms-
bury, describing the customs of Glastonbury soon after
the Conquest, says, that on particular occasions the
monks had "mead

grace-cup/'
their cans,
in
looked upon with leniency

of
Durham, w e read
at the
and wine in
their
Excess in drinking appears to have been
for, in
the stories of Reginald
of a party drinking
house of a priest
and
in another
night
all
he mentions
a youth passing the whole night drinking at a tavern
with his monastic teacher,

the other to go home.
till
The
the one cannot prevail on

qualities of
good wine in
the 12th century are thus singularly set forth
"
It
19
should be clear like the tears of a penitent, so that

a
man may
its
see distinctly to the
bottom of the glass
colour should represent the greenness of a buffalo's
horn
when drunk,
thunder
should descend impetuously like
it
sweet-tasted as an almond
leaping like a roebuck;
a squirrel;
building of a Cistercian monastery
spark of
fire
creeping like
strong like the

glittering like a
subtle like the logic of the schools of
Paris; delicate as fine silk; and colder than crystal."

If
we pursue our theme through the 13th, 14th, and
15th centuries, we find but
little
to edify us, those
times being distinguished more by their excess and

riot
than by superiority of beverages or the customs

It
would be neither profitable nor
interesting to descant
on scenes of brawling drunken-
attached to them.
which ended not unfrequently in
ness,
fierce battles
or pause to admire the congregation of female gossips

at the taverns,
where the overhanging sign was either
the branch of a tree, from which

that
ee
we
derive the saying
good wine needs no bush," or the equally common
appendage of a besom hanging from the window, which

has supplied us with the idea of "hanging out the
broom."
The
Malmsey,
first
tury,
when
its
chief wine
drank
at this
period was
imported into England in the 13th cenaverage price was about 505. a butt;
this wine, however, attained its greatest popularity in
the 15th century.

this
There
wine which makes
and that
is,
of Clarence.
the part
it
Whether
it
is
a story in connexion with
familiar to every schoolboy
played in the death of the
Duke
nobleman did choose
a butt
that

20
Malmsey, and thus carry out the idea
of
his
cares in
we
little,
of
drowning
wine, as well as his body, matters but
We
our readers.
think, to
may however
mention that although great suspicion has been thrown

on the truth of the
writers
story, the only
who mention
his death,
two contemporary
Fabyan and Comines,
appear to have had no doubt that the
Duke
of Clarence
was actually drowned in a butt of Malmsey.

records
kept of
the
expenses
Scots, during her captivity at Tutbury,
allowance of
Malmsey granted
In the
Mary, Queen
of
we
of
find a weekly
to her for a bath.
In
a somewhat scarce French book, written in the 15 th

century, entitled
feri/
we
of the
La Legende de Maitre
Pierre Fai-
find the following verse relating to the death
Duke
of Clarence
"I have seen the Duke of Clarence

(So his wayward fate had will'd),
By
his special order,
drown'd
In a cask with. Malmsey
That that death should
fill'd.
strike his fancy,
This the reason, I suppose
He might
Would
A wine called
It
think that hearty drinking

appease his dying throes."
" Clary " was
also
drank
at this period.
appears to have been an infusion of the herb of
that
name
in spirit,
and
is
spoken of by physicians of
the time as an excellent cordial for the stomach, and
highly efficacious in the cure of hysterical affections.
This
may
in
some measure account
for the statement
in the Household Ordinances for the well keeping of
the Princess Cecil, afterwards mother to that right lusty
21
and handsome King, Edward IV. ; we there find it laid

down " that for the maintenance of honest mirth she
shall
take,
an hour before bedtime, a cup of Clary
" Red wine "
wine."
Henry VIII.
it
but
is also
it is
spoken of in the reign of
uncertain to what class of wine
belonged, or whence
came:
it
palatable,
if
would recommend
ever, its cheapness
it;
how-
for at
the
marriage of Gervys Clinton and Mary Neville, three
hogsheads of
five
it,
for the wedding-feast,
Gascony and Guienne wines were sold
guineas.
in the reign of
Henry VIII.
at
eighteenpence a gallon,
and Malmsey, Romaney, and sack

pint.
were bought for
twelvepence a
at
In the reign of Edward IV. few places were
allowed more than two taverns, and

to forty.
None but
those
who
London was
limited
could spend 100 marks
a year, or the son of a Duke, Marquis, Earl, or Baron,
were allowed to keep more than ten gallons of wine

one time; and only the High
Cities,
and the inhabitants of
Sheriffs, Magistrates of
fortified
keep vessels of wine for their own use.

reign, however,
we
as four pipes a
We
must
as
York
much
some of our
dawn
of
we may be allowed the term,
as
the " Cup-epoch,"
if
gleaned from the
rolls of
is
in
and
not, however, pass over
the 15th century without proclaiming
a.d. 1447,
In the same
his enthronement,
month were consumed
noblemen's houses.
of our Universities.
towns might
learn that the Archbishop of
consumed 100 tons on
at
it
as the
some of the ancient
colleges
In the computus of Magstoke Priory,
an entry in Latin, the translation of which
seems to be this:
"Paid
for raisin wine, with comfits

22
and
when
spices,
Sir S. Montford's fool was here
exhibited his merriments in the oriel chamber."
and
And
even in Edward III.'s reign, we read that at the Christ-
mas
feasts the drinks
were a collection of spiced liquors,
and cinnamon and grains of paradise were among the

dessert confections
evidence
compound drinks being
of
and these, although somewhat too much medi-
in fashion;
cated to be in accordance with our present taste, deserve
Olden worthies
well of us as leading to better things.
who took
their cups regularly,
cheerful lives,
and so lived clean and
when they were moved
to give
choice recipes for the public good, described
the head of " kitchen physic
"
up
their
them under
for the oldest
" Curry "
or Cookery Books (the words are synonymous) include,
under this head, both dishes of meats and brewages of

drinks.
One cup is described as " of mighty power in
driving away the cobweby fogs that dull the brain,"
another as " a generous and right excellent cordial, very
comforting to the stomach ;" and their possession of

these good qualities was notably the reason of their ap-
Among
pearance at entertainments.
the most promi-
nent ranks the medicated composition called Hypocras,
"Ypocras
also styled
for Lords,"
for
the
making of
which various recipes are to be found, one of which we

will quote
" Take
of
Aqua
vitse
(brandy)
5 oz.
Pepper
oz.
Ginger
oz.
Cloves
Grains of Paradise
oz.
oz.

23
Ambergris
5 grs.
Musk
grs.
Infuse these for twenty-four hours, then put a
or four drops of the infusion into
when
festivals,
mencement
and
it
will
make
it
This compound was usually given at
taste richly."
marriage
it,
pound
and drop three
of sugar to a quart of red wine or cider,
it
was introduced
of the banquet, served hot
for
com-
at the
it is
said to
be of so comforting and generous a nature that the
stomach would be
once put into good temper to
at
Hypocras
enjoy the meats provided.
a particular bag through which

also
a favourite winter beverage;
old almanac of
{i
1699 the
from
(so called
was strained) was
it
and we find
in
an
lines
Sack Hypocras, now, and burnt "brandy

as good and warm as can be."
;
Are drinks
Hypocras, however,
century.
From
compound drinks
price,
this period
in
no
less a
we
14th
our champion of
personage than the noblest
Queen Bess;
for,
" Cordial Water," which, in
ness, stands alone
" Take," says
among
its
simplicity
them gently
pleaseth thee."
off,
and good-
the compounds of the age.
he, " a gallon of strawberries
into a pint of aqua vitse

strain
select
as the
among other legacies of

Sir Walter Raleigh has handed down to us a recipe
courtier of
for
mentioned as early
is
let
and put them
them stand four
days, then
and sweeten the liquor as
it
This beverage, though somewhat too
potent for modern palates, may, by proper dilution, be
rendered no unworthy cup even in the present age.
Prom
the same noble hand
we get
a recipe for Sack
24
Posset, which full well shows us propriety of taste in
" Boil
compounder.
its
sufficit of
of sack,
now
cover your basin with

for
take half a pint
and
ale,
boil
them
well
these, being boiled separately,
Heat
to be added.
cream with quantum
nutmeg
and the same quantity of
together, adding sugar

are
a quart of
sugar, mace, and
a pewter dish very hot,
and
it,
let
stand by the
it
and
fire
two or three hours."
With regard
we
to wines,
find in the beginning of the
16th century that the demand for Malmsey was small
and in 1531 we find Sack
name
first
spoken
of,
that being the
applied to the vintages of Candia, Cyprus, and
Shakspeare pronounced Malmsey to be "ful-
Spain.
som,""
and bestowed
his praises
all
on " fertil
sherries
-/'
and when Shakspeare makes use of the word Sack, he

evidently
means by
a superior class of wine.
it
Thus
Launcelot Sparcock, in the " London Prodigal,"
Sir
says,
" Drawer,
let
For these
In
all
me
girls
liave sack for us old
probability, the sack of Shakspeare
allied to, if not precisely the
Falstaff says,
" You rogue
is
yet a coward
is
sherry, in order to free

tartaric acids,
is
same
there
is
as,
best."
was very much
our sherry ; for
lime in this sack too
worse than sack with lime in
and we know that lime
Sack
nothing but roguery to be found in villanous
there
man
men
and knaves small wines are
and to
spoken of as
is
it
it
;"
used in the manufacture of
from a portion of malic and
assist in
late as
producing its dry quality.
1717, in a parish register,
which allows the minister a pint of
it
on the Lord's
da}',
and
in the winter season;
25
Swift, writing in 1727, has
the lines
Tom
" As clever
Rode
Clinch, while the rabble
was
bawling-,
Holborn to die of his calling,

He stopped at the George for a bottle of sack,
And promised to pay for it when he came back."
stately through
'
He was
'
probably of the same opinion as the Elizabe-
than poet, who sang,

u Sacke will
So will
make the merry minde sad,

make the melancholie glad.
it
If mirthe and sadnesse doth in sacke remain,
When
am
sad I '11 take some sacke again."
recipe of this time, attributed to Sir Fleetwood
Fletcher,
than one
curious in
is
and, as
rhyme, we give
"
it
its
composition in more ways
we seldom
documents in
find such
From famed Barbadoes, on the western main,

Fetch sugar, ounces four fetch sack from Spain,
;
A pint
and from the Eastern
coast,
Nutmeg, the glory of our northern toast

O'er flaming coals let them together heat,
j
Till the all-conquering sack dissolve the sweet
O'er such another
fire
put eggs just ten,
New -bom
from tread of cock and rump of hen ;

Stir them with steady hand, and conscience pricking,
To
see the untimely end of ten fine chicken
From
A quart
When boil'd
and cold put milk and sack to eggs,
Unite them firmly like the
And
down the brazen skillet

of milk from gentle cow will fill it
shining shelf take
triple leagues
them together dwell

Till miss sing twice you must not kiss and
Each lad and lass take up a silver spoon,
on the
fire let
'
And fall
tell
on fiercely like a starved dragoon."

c
'
26
About
one Lord Holies, who probably
this time,
represented the total abstainers of the age, invented a
drink termed Hydromel,
made
of honey, spring-water,
and ginger ; and a cup of this taken at night, said he,

" will cure thee of all troubles/' thus acknowledging
the stomachic virtues of cups, though some warping of
would not
his senses
tent, in
let
him
believe, to a curable ex-
more potent draughts
being in charity with
him, we hope his was a saving faith
but we have our
doubts of
it, he died so young.

Another recipe of the
same nature was, " The Ale of health and strength/' by
the Duchess of St. Albans, which appears to have been

a decoction of
all
the aromatic herbs in the garden
(whether agreeable or otherwise), boiled up in small

beer
and, thinking this account of
we
sufficient,
will
One
various items or proportions.
of the
we
descriptions of old English cheer
composition
is
most amusing
ever
met with
is
French physician,
that of Master Stephen Perlin, a
who was
its
not indulge our readers with the
England during the reigns of Edward VI.
in
and Mary. He says, writing for the benefit of his countrymen, " The English, one with the other, are joyous,
and are very fond of music
Now
drinkers.
remember,
if
likewise they are great
you
please, that in this
country they generally use vessels of

drink wine
'
and they
Goude chere
'
and
will say to
also
silver
when they
you usually
at table,
they will say to you more
than one hundred times, 'Drind oui/ and you will

reply to
them
in
their language,
'
Iplaigui/
They
drink their beer out of earthenware pots, of which the

27
handles and the covers are of silver," &c.
Worthy-
Master Perlin seems hardly to have got on with his

spelling of the English tongue while he
our habits
reliable
his
The custom
and curious.
drinking healths
is
period
at
other, the
among
the Greeks and
any rate refer
and indeed we may
it
an
to
custom has existed from time
to designate
customs of a similar import,
though the precise date of the application of

is
uncertain
for its quaintness,

It is
this
term
and although we cannot accept the expla-
nation given in the 24th
"
earlier
rationally surmise that, in
In later times the term " toasting " was
immemorial.
employed
and
of pledging
but, with such decided evidence
before us of similar customs
Romans, we must
is
generally stated to have originated
with the Anglo-Saxons
some form or
was studying
account, however, of olden customs
we
will
number
quote
it
of the
'
Tatler/ yet,
said that while a celebrated beauty
was
in-
dulging in her bath, one of the crowd of admirers who
surrounded her took a glass of the water in which the

fair
one was dabbling, and drank her health to the
company, when a gay fellow offered

e
Though he
toast.'"
jump
to
liked not the liquor, he
in,
saying,
would have the
This tale proves that toasts were put into
beverages in those days, or the
wag would not have
applied the simile to the fair bather
and in the reign
of Charles II., Earl Rochester writes,
u Make
Up
it
so large that, fill'd
with sack
to the swelling brim,
Vast toasts on the delicious lake,

Like ships at sea, may swim."
c2

28
AND THEIR CUSTOMS.
CUPS
And
in a panegyric
on Oxford
we have the
in 1720,
My sober
With
ale,
by Warton
written
lines
evening
let
the tankard bless,
toast enibrown'd,
While the
and fragrant nutmeg fraught,
rich draught, with oft-repeated whiffs,
Tobacco mild improves."
Johnson, in his translation of Horace, makes use of the
Ode
expression in
I.
Book IV. thus
u There jest and feast

If a
and
fit
liver
Prior, in the
" But
And
make him
thou dost seek to
" Camelion,"
if at first
Five deep he
toasts
"
;
says,
he minds his
drinks champaign
thine host,
toast
hits,
among the
wits,
the towering lasses,
Repeats your verses wrote on glasses."
This
last line
has reference to the custom pursued in
the clubs of the eighteenth century, of writing verses
on the brims of
their
them the names
of the
toasted
cups;
and Dr. Arbuthnot
celebrated Kit- Cat Club
they also inscribed on
favourite ladies
ascribes the
to
the toasts
whom
name
they
of the
drank there,
rather than to the renowned pastry-cook, Christopher
Kat;
for
he
says,
" From no trim beaux
its
name
it
boasts,
Grey statesmen or green wits

But from its pell-mell pack of toasts,
Of old Cat and young Kits."
;
Among
tagu,
while
the latter may be mentioned Lady Mary Monwho was toasted at the age of eight years;
among the former denomination we must class
;;
Lady Molyneux, who

in
mouth.
her
In
29
said to have died with a pipe
is
17th
the
custom
century the
of drinking health was conducted with great ceremony
each person rising up in turn, with a
some individual
to
whom
full cup,
whole contents of the cup and turned
upon the
make
it
cry
it
table, giving it at the
down
upside
it
same time a
ring, or, as our ancient authority has
twango/ "
'
named
he drank; he then drank the
Each person followed
it,
fillip
to
" make
in his turn
and, in order to prove that he had fairly emptied his

cup, he was to pour
thumb-nail; and
if
all
that remained in
there was too
much
on the
nail,
again.
If the person was present
he was compelled
to
left to
on
his
remain
drink his cup
full
whose health was
drank, he was expected to remain perfectly

the operation, and at the conclusion to
nation of his head,
it
still
during
make an
this being the origin of our
incli-
custom
of taking wine with each other, which, with sorrow be

it said, is
was the health of
to give
when
fast exploding.
this toast
drink his cup

letters in
We
A very usual
his mistress
toast for a
man
and in France,
was given, the proposer was expected to
full of
wine as
many
times as there were
her name.
now
pass on to times which seem, in their cus-
toms, to approach more nearly to the present, yet far back
enough
to
pardoned
be called old times

if
we indulge
in
and we think
it
may be
some reminiscences of them,
tacking on to our short-lived memories the greater recollection of history,
and thus reversing the wheels of time,
which are hurrying us forward
faster
than we care to go.
30
Eor we hold
to be
it
an excusable matter,
this halting
awhile and looking back to times of simpler manners than
those
we
are living in, of heartier friendships, of
more
and that these good
were
genial trustings;
qualities
preeminently those current during the 17th and 18th
we have abundant
centuries
most noble sentiments
proof.
Has not one
in the English
of the
language come
down to us in a cup the cup of kindness, which we are

bidden to take for " Auld Lang Syne" ? And truly there
come
to us from this age passed by, but leaving behind
an ever-living freshness which can be made a heritage

of cheerfulness to the end of time, such testimonies of
good done by associable

that,
as well as social intercourse,
were we cynics of the most churlish kind, instead
of people inclined to be kind
and neighbourly, we could
not refuse acknowledgment of the part played in such

deeds by the cup of kindness.
Be
it
remembered,
however, such bright oases in social history do not

shine from gluttonous tables, and are not the property
of hard-drinking circles, with their attendant vices.
seek for
them
We
in vain at the so-called social boards of
men won their spurs by excesand " three-bottle men " were the
the last century, where

sive wine-drinking,
only gentlemen;
neither do
we meet them amid the
and
Alsatia, or, nearer to our
carousals of Whitehall
own
day,
among
The scenes we
like to recall
of merry-makings
as
when
the vicious coteries of the Regency.
gentle
and
jollity
Master
fishing, brings with
and dwell upon are those
or of friendly meetings,
Izaac,
returning
him two-legged
from his
fish to taste his
31
brewage (and a very pleasant and commendable cup tbe

great master of the gentle art will drink with them),
or
when pious Master Herbert chances
man he
for the
liketh,
who hath
good that
companion,
(for
the
manner
in them,
is
to
meet with a
of loving
and who,
all
things
like his greater
no one in that quality of mind was
greater than Herbert,)
had a respect
for what, in others,
were occasions of stumbling, could use good gifts without abusing them, and think the loving-cup of spiced
wine an excellent good cordial for the heart, or when

Dr.
Donne
(scarce a
man
in
England wiser than
he),
laying aside for the time his abstruse learning, mixed a
mighty cup of gillyflower

Sir
Kenelm Digby
sack,
and talked over
(hardly a lesser
man
of the good gifts lavishly offered, but
with
it
than himself),
by some rudely
abused, and by others unthankfully taken, discussed

the merits of plants and fruits, or the virtues, harder to
be discovered, of stones and metals, while they marvelled at that
scheme which adapted each body, animate
or inanimate, to the station ordained to

infinite
goodness of
it,
Him who made man
and
at the
head of
all,
and gave him power and discernment that he might

show,
by the moderate use of things healthy and
nourishing, the wisdom of
cheer and to cherish.
some had
Sir
Him who
ordained them to
great regard for the whole-
Kenelm Digby, whose
carefulness in the
concoction of his favourite cup was such that he could
not brew
rule of
it
aright
much
if
he had not Hyde-Park water
value in Sir Kenelm^s day, no doubt
but
modern " improvements," unfortunately, interfere with
32
the present use of
Other apostles of the truest
it.
temperance (moderation) there were, and we cherish
them
men who have
as
deserved well of their country.
Dr. Parr, for example, who could drink his cider-cup
on the
village green
on a Sunday evening, while
farming parishioners played
more
at bowls,
legibly written in social history,
tent leaving an impress
or again,
and
to
upon our national
club-gatherings of the last century, where
his
still
some
ex-
life,
the
men
of far-
seeing and prudent philosophy (Addison, Steele, Goldsmith, Johnson, and others), whose
woven with the history
are inter-
of their time, meeting together,
human joys and human

men witty themselves, and
talked of
cups
names
sorrows over claretthe cause of wit in
other men, like sweet Sir John, whose devotion to
"
"
sherris sack
fore
cost
him
deny him admission
his character,
and
to our gallery of
have drank wisely and warily, and therefore
will there-
men who
well.
While speaking of these times, we must not forget

mention " the cup that cheers, but not inebriates ;"
it
was from the introduction of
tea-
to
for
and coffee-houses
that clubs sprang into existence, by a process unneces-
sary here to dilate on, but of which an excellent account
may
be found in Philip and Grace Wharton's
and Beaux of
Society.''
blished was the
a Greek,
coffee
who
was
to
'
The
first
Wits
coffee-house esta-
Grecian/ kept by one Constantine,
advertised that " the pure berry of the
be had of him as good as could be any-
where found," and shortly afterwards succeeded in

securing a flourishing trade by selling an infusion of

the said berry in small cups.
Garraway, who
him
in leaf
set forth
him came Mr.
After
that "
33
was to be had of
tea
and in drink ;" and thus took
its
rise
Garraway's well-known coffee-house, so celebrated for

the sayings and doings of Dr. Johnson, one of which,
being somewhat to the point, we may, in passing,
"
notice.
men who
I admit," said he,
u that there are sluggish
improved by drinking, as there are
are
which are not good
till
they are rotten
fruits
there are such
men, but they are medlars."

In the eighteenth century the principal cups that we
find noted were those
of
compounded
of Beer, the
names
which are occasionally suggestive of too great a
familiarity
on the part of
their worshippers,
Humptie-dumptie, Clamber-clown,
to wit,
Blind Pin-
Stiffle,
neaux, Old Pharaoh, Three threads, Knock-me-down,
Hugmatee, and Foxcomb.
All these were current at
Then, towards the end
the beginning of that century.

of
it
and
we
find Cock-ale, Stepony, Stitchback,
Mum.
Mum
It is so called
Braunschweig
is
ale
from Christison
in \Yolfenbiittel,
Mumme,
who
three Essex
men meet
draught taken by the
a brewer of
lived at the
the 15th century, and whose house
When
Northdown,
brewed from malted wheat.
still
is
end of
standing.
to drink a pot together, the
first is
called the
by the second the Sinkem, the
last
man
Neckem, that
draining the
pot by drinking the Swankens, from which we find, in

Bailey's Dictionary, " Swankie,'" the drop which remains
at the
bottom of a cup.
"Bragget"
is
word derived from the hero Braga, who
a northland
is
one of the
c5
34
mythological gods of the Edda, and consisted of spiced
drank on Mothering Sunday, a kind of metheglin
ale
derived from
Bragawd (Welsh).
Lancashire.
All these were very similar in composition,
and
It
is
their precise recipes are scarcely
Many noted
still
drank in
worth recording.
houses of entertainment, both in town and
country, were distinguished

of these compounds.
by
their particular
But we can only
brewage
find a single
instance of a house becoming famous in this century

for claret-cups, in
any drink
many
respects the most desirable of
that one hostelry was the
Fleet Street, so often quoted
Heaven/ in
by the ephemeral
writers
of the age.
Modern English customs connected with drinking
may be
for,
conspicuous from their absence;
said to be
save in the Grace-cups, and Loving-cups of civic
we do not
entertainments and other state occasions,
remember any customs worth alluding
Certain of
to.
our cathedral establishments and colleges retain practices

of ancient date relating to the passing round of the
grace-cup
is
drank
of such
is
the
Durham Prebend's
at certain feasts given
to the corporation
of
money
annually.
from the original
by the resident Prebend
and inhabitants of the
which, under an old charter, he
is
city,
and
allowed a liberal
This composition
recipe,
cup, which
is still
for
sum
brewed
and served in the original
ancient silver cups, which are at least a foot high, and
hold between two and three quarts.

carried into the
room by a
The cups
are
chorister-boy, attired in a
black gown, preceded by a verger, also wearing a black
;
::
gown trimmed with

hand a
silver
silver
wand.
35
and bearing in
braid,
Latin grace
then chanted,
is
and the Prebend presents the boy with a

having placed the cups on the
table,
shilling,
who,
marches out of the
The cups
room, accompanied by the verger.
his
are then
passed down each side of the table, and quaffed by each

guest in succession to an appropriate toast.
For the " sensation-drinks " which have

velled across the Atlantic
we have no
lately tra-
friendly feeling
they are far too closely allied to the morning dram,
with
taste
thousand verbal mystifications, to please our

and the source from which " eye-openers " and
its
;
"smashers" come
is
one too notorious to be wel-
comed by any man who deserves

so
we
and
will pass the
American
well of his country
bar, with
and express our
fiery wine,
its
bad brandies
gratification
at the
poor success which " Pick-me-ups," " Corpse-revivers,"

"Chain-lightning,"
and the
like
have had in this
country.
HINTS TO CUP-BKEWERS.
There
are certain things to be observed in the
pounding of cups, which, though patent
common
When
boil,
sense,
a drink
but
let
we may be pardoned
is
to every
for
comman's
mentioning.
to be served hot, never let the mixture
the heat be applied as gently as possible
36
a fierce heat causes the spirit to evaparate, and moreover

destroys or materially alters the fine aromatic flavour
on which
hot cup
much
so
as possible,
be served
by a covering
till
the
moment
hand, when a cool cup

junct
is ice,
the cup,
When
of its delicacy depends.
is
to the vessel
it is
and
On
required.
to be
either in lumps,
made,
its
the
much
brewed, be careful to retain the heat as
is
not
let it
the other
greatest ad-
which may be retained in
or, as is preferable, a portion of
pounded
ice
should be violently shaken with the mixture and after-
wards strained
to
The
off.
wrap a block of
mallet or rolling-pin
up
best
in a
it
way
of
pounding
napkin and beat
it
ice is
with a
and the only way of breaking
a block of ice into conveniently sized pieces with
accuracy
is
by using a large needle or other sharp-
The rind
pointed instrument.
of
lemon and orange
and
of great service in flavouring cups;
it
is
is
of the
utmost importance that this should be pared as thinly

as possible, for
that the flavour
as
In making
contained.
is
where lemon-peel
altogether,
only in the extreme outer portion
it is
is
worse than useless;
it
It
cups
imparts an un-
pleasant flavour to the beverage, and tends to
muddy and
all
employed, reject the white part
make
it
discoloured.
was customary in olden times, as well as
at
the present, to communicate flavouring to compound

drinks by means of different herbs,
in point of flavour
Borage, which
is
early as the 13th century, as
of
John De Garlande
among which
is
first
mentioned, as
growing in the garden
and in a
list
of plants of the

15th century, Borage stands
the
commencement
It is
first.
37
spoken of in
of the 18th century as one of the
known
four cordial flowers, being of
virtue to revive
the hypochondriac and cheer the hard student.
Borage
is
a plant having a small blue
This
and
flower,
growing luxuriantly in most gardens; by placing a

sprig or two of
it
in
any cool drink,
it
communicates a
by
When, however, Borage cannot be
peculiar refreshing flavour which cannot be imitated
any other means.
procured, a thin slice of cucumber-peel forms a very
good substitute; but care must be taken to use but

one
slice,
or the cup will be too
the flavour to be palatable.

outer rind of the stalk
superior excellence.
much impregnated with
small piece from the
considered by some to possess
is
We
have made
to extract this peculiar flavouring
of which
imagine
we have been
it
many
from Borage, in
totally unsuccessful
possible to separate
it
is
do not recommend
used
it,
all
nor do we
from the plant, in
Balm
order to gain these peculiar properties.

other herb which
experiments
for flavouring drinks
although we find
it
is
an-
but we
spoken of in
an old medical work as a very good help to digestion,
and to open obstructions

gives
to the brain, &c. &c.
an agreeable flavour to Juleps, but
general application.
is
Mint
not of
sprig of sweet-scented verbena,
put into some cups, imparts an aromatic and agreeable

flavour
but
all
these herbs
must be used with
caution,
and are only pleasant when judiciously introduced.

Let your utensils be clean, and your ingredients of
first-rate quality,
and, unless you have some one very
38
trustworthy and
self;
for
reliable, take
nothing
annoying to the host, or so
so
is
unpalatable to the guests, as a badly
In order that the magnitude of
may be
some of the
of the illustrious Billy
compounded cup.
this important business
and properly estimated, we
fully understood
will transfer
whose
remarks
excellent aphoristic
Dawson (more properly Bully
Dawson, spoken of by Charles Lamb in

Fallacies'),
hand your-
the matter in
illustricity consisted
his
'
Popular
in being the
man who could brew Punch. This is his testimony

" The man who sees, does, or thinks of anything while he is making Punch, may as well look for
the North-west Passage on Mutton Hill,
A man can
unless
satisfied,
never make good Punch
he is
nay
positive, that no man breathing can make better.
I
can and do make good Punch, because I do nothing
only
else
and
my way of doing it. I retire

my ingredients ready sorted
this is
solitary corner, with
are as follows
and
here written.
water, one pint
mix them
stout, half a gill
twelve
in the order they are
tolerable
lumps;
lemons, two, the juice and peel
Jamaica rum, two
self five
Sugar,
;
to a
they
gills
brandy, one
gill
arrack, a slight dash.
hot
;
old
porter or
I allow
my-
minutes to make a bowl on the foregoing pro-
portions, carefully stirring the mixture as I furnish the
ingredients until
roos
ence,
how
it
beautiful
actually foams
it is
\l"
If,
and then, Kanga-
however, for conveni-
you place the matter in the hands of your do-
mestic, I would advise
you
to caution her
on the im-
portance of the office; and this could not be better

effected
King
39
than by using the words of the witty Dr.
"
Peggy, Peggy,
when thou
Consider well what you
Be yery wise
're
go'st to brew,
about to do
very sedately think
That what you 're going to make is drink

Consider who must drink that drink, and then
What 'tis
to
have the praise of honest
Then future ages shall of Peggy tell,

The nymph who spiced the brewages
Respecting the
laid
size of the
down, because
number who have
it
men
so well."
cup no fixed rule can be
must mainly depend upon the
to partake of
it
and be
it
remem-
bered that, as cups are not intended to be quaffed ad

libitum,
as
did
"To
'
He
of
Bicias,
Bicias shee
it
whom
Cornelius Agrippa
gave, and sayd,
cup of myne f
quickly quafte it, and left not
Drink of
this
Of licoure any sygne,"
let quality prevail
over quantity, and try to hit a happy
medium between
the cup of Nestor, which was so large
that a
young man could not carry
half-pint of our
own
day, which
it,
and the country
we have heard
being so small that a string has to be tied to

vent
it
slipping
In order
down with the
to pre-
cider.
to appreciate the delicacy of a well-com-
pounded cup, we would venture

rule,
it
of as
"When
you drink
to suggest this laconic
think."
40
OLD EECIPES.
First and foremost among compound drinks, with
re-
gard to priority of date, stands Hydromel, the favourite

beverage of the ancient Britons, which
same
the
as that
name
made and used
of Metheglin, a
is
probably the
at the present
day under
word derived from the Welsh
Medey-glin, and spoken of by Howell, who was Clerk
In ancient times, how-
to the Privy Conncil in 1640.

this
ever,
compound was made by simply
honey with water; but

are usually added to
made
in this way,
it
diluting
at the present day, substances
to cause
to ferment
it
and when
from mead or bragget.
it differs little
Metheglin.
To nine
gallons of boiling water put twenty-eight
pounds of honey, add the peel of three lemons, with a

small quantity of ginger, mace, cloves, and rosemary
when
Put
this is quite cold,
this into a cask,
add two tablespoonfuls of yeast.
and allow
expiration of six months, bottle
Another favourite drink
"Lamb's Wool/' which
it
it
to ferment
at the
off for use.
in olden times
derived
its
was that called
name from
the 1st
of November, a day dedicated to the angel presiding
over fruits and seeds, and termed "
La Mas-ubal," which
has subsequently been corrupted into " lamb's wool."
41
Lamb's Wool,
To one quart
of strong hot ale add the pulp of six
roasted apples, together with a small quantity of grated
nutmeg and
ginger, with a sufficient quantity of raw
sugar to sweeten
let it
it
the mixture assiduously, and
stir
be served hot.
Of equal
tion,
antiquity,
and of nearly the same composi-
many
the Wassail Bowl, which in
is
England
is still
alluded to by Shakspeare in his "
Midsummer
In Jesus College, Oxford, we are
Drearu."
parts of
partaken of on Christmas Eve, and
drunk on the Festival of
St.
is
Night's
told, it is
David, out of a silver
gilt
bowl holding ten gallons, which was presented to that

College by Sir
Watkin William Wynne,
in 1732.
The Wassail Bowl.
Put into a quart of warm beer one pound of raw

sugar,
on which grate a nutmeg and some ginger;
then add four glasses of sherry and two quarts more of

beer, with three slices of
required,
and serve
floating in
it
lemon; add more sugar,
with three
slices of toasted
if
bread
it.
Another genus of beverages,
if
so
it
may be
termed,
of considerable antiquity, comprise those compositions

basis, or, as Dr. Johnson describes
"
milk
curdled
with
wine and other acids/' known
them,
having milk for their
under the name of Possets
such as milk-posset, pepper-
posset, cider-posset, or egg-posset.
Most
of these,
now-

42
a-days, are restricted to the bed-chamber,
where they are
taken in cases of catarrh, to act as agreeable sudorifics.
They appear
to us to
be too much associated with tallow
applied to the nose to induce us to give recipes for their
composition, although in olden times they seem to have
been drank on
festive occasions, as
"We will have

and
Sir
Shakspeare says
a posset at the end of a sea-coal
John Suckling, who
poems the
"In came the bridesmaids with the
line
posset."
The Grace-cup and Loving-cup appear
to
for a beverage the drinking of
be synony-
which has
been from time immemorial a great feature

corporation dinners in
as
London and other
and the Inns of Court, and which

and
of wine
spices, formerly
is
called
at
the
large towns,
at the feasts of the various trade
also
"
;
lived in the early part of
the 17th century, has in one of his
mous terms
fire
companies
compound
" Sack."
It is
handed round the table before the removal of the

cloth,
in
large
silver
cups,
from which no one
is
allowed to drink before the guest on either side of
him has
stood up
and bows
the person
to his neighbours.
who
drinks then rises
This custom
is
said to
have originated in the precaution to keep the right or
dagger hand employed, as
it
was a frequent practice
with the Danes to stab their companions in the back at

the time they were drinking.
The most notable
in-
stance of this was the treachery employed by Elfrida,
who
stabbed King
Edward the Martyr
whilst thus engaged.
at Corfe Castle
At the Temple the custom
of the

Loving-cup
The guests
strictly observed.
is
43
supposed to take one draught from
it
as
are only-
passes
it
in
number
though the
present
short
fell
of
but,
No. 110 of the Quarterly Review/ a writer

u Yet it chanced, not long since at the Temple,
'
says,
that,
seventy,
consumed."
thirty-six quarts of the liquor were
Julep, derived from the Persian word Julap (a sweet-
ened draught),
by Milton
is
a beverage spoken of by John Quincey,
who
the physician,
died in 1723, and also mentioned
in the lines
a Behold this cordial Julep here,
That foams and dances in his crystal bounds,

With spirits of balm and fragrant syrups mix'd."
This drink
now made by pounding
is
sugar together, and adding to
it
ice
and white
a wine-glass of brandy,
half a wine-glass of rum, and a piece of the outer rind
of a
lemon
these ingredients are shaken violently,
and two or three sprigs of fresh mint

the glass
it is
are stuck
in
then usually imbibed through a straw,
or stick of maccaroni.
One
of the oldest of winter beverages,
favourite, both in ancient

versities,
is
and an especial
and modern times, in our Uni-
" Bishop/'' also
known on
the Continent
under the somewhat similar name of Bischof.

according to Swift,
is
This,
composed of
"Fine oranges,
"Well roasted, with sugar and wine in a cup,
They'll
This recipe
make
is
a sweet Bishop
when
given verbatim in
'
gentlefolks sup."
Oxford Night-caps. 5
44
MODERN
RECIPES.
PUNCH.
The
in his
wits
origin of this
'
word
is
attributed
by Dr. Doran,
History of Court Fools/ to a club of Athenian
how he
but
Punch with
could possibly connect
these worthies, or derive
their sayings or doings,
understand.
we
it
word
from either
are totally at a loss to
more probable derivation
Its
the
is
from the
Persian Punj, or from the Sanscrit Pancha, which denotes the usual
posed,
number
is
com-
In an old book of travels dated 1639,
viz. five.
a certain drink
of ingredients of whichit
is
mentioned called Palepuntz, used by
the English at Surat, composed of brandy, rose-water,

citron-juice,
and sugar, the acid principle being absent.
We may here mention
parenthetically that
The London Charivari/ was
started by five
Punch, or
men, of whom
three were "
Lemon s/' viz. Mark Lemon, its editor,

Leman Rede, and Laman Blanchard. Thus Punch
was made with " Leinon-ade."
f
'
Punch,
Extract the
rubbing
it
oil
from the rind of a large lemon by
with lumps of sugar
add the juice of two
lemons and of two Seville oranges, together with the

finely
pared rind; put this into a jug with one pint of
old rum,
one pint of brandy, and half a pound of

powdered lump sugar ;
stir
45
well together, then add one
pint of infusion of green tea and one quart of boiling
Mix
water.
is
and
well,
let it
be served quite hot.
This
an excellent recipe for ordinary Punch; and the

strongly recom-
addition of green tea cannot be too
mended.
In order to give Punch a delicious softness,

jelly
should be added to the
The addition
of two glasses of sherry
one pint of calves'-foot

above recipe.
will also
be found an improvement.
Noyau Punch
is
made by adding two
glasses of
noyau
to the above
recipe.
tablespoonful of Guava jelly administers a fine
flavour to a bowl
Punch.
of
Preserved tamarinds,
put into Punch, impart a flavour closely resembling

arrack
little
and a piece or two of preserved ginger, with a
of the syrup, added to Punch, acts as a stimulant,
and prevents any

arise
from the acids
effects
ill
it
which might otherwise
contains.
Gin Punch,
As
a mild
summer
drink,
and one
we recommend Gin Punch, according

recipe
made,
Stir the rind of a lemon,
in half a pint of gin;
half
readily
to the following
pint
of
water,
and the juice of half a one,
add a glass of Maraschino,
and
two
tablespoonfuls
pounded white sugar, and, immediately before

pour in two bottles of iced soda-water.
of
serving,
46
Whisky Punch.
To one
pint of whisky and two glasses of brandy
add the juice and peel of one lemon and a wine-glassful

of boiling ale
well stir into
it
half a
pound
of pow-
dered sugar, and add a quart of boiling water.

is
This
most fascinating tipple ever invented;

the
words of Basil Hall, " It brightens a
quote
said to be the
and, to
man's hopes, crumbles down his
difficulties, softens
the
him
for
hostility of his enemies, and, in fact, induces
the time being to think generously of

the tiptop of which
places his
own
it
all
mankind,
at
naturally and good-naturedly
dear self."
If well made, in our opinion, there
is
no beverage,
in
point of generosity and delicacy of flavour, that can
compare with Milk Punch,

which, after
numerous
recipe as the simplest
for the
trials,
and
we
compounding of
offer the
following
best.
Milk Punch.
To
the
of twelve
rinds
lemons and two
Seville
oranges add 2J pounds of loaf sugar, a bottle of pale

brandy, and a bottle and a half of old rum, with a
sufficient quantity of grated
stand for a week

five pints of
water
and, after letting
through jelly-bags
Bottle for use.
it
will be.
nutmeg.
Let this mixture
then add the juice of the
lastly,
it
fruit,
with
add one quart of boiling milk,
stand for an hour,
till it is
filter
the whole
clear.
The longer
it
is
kept, the better

In Cambridge
matters) Milk
47
town of no mean authority
(a
Punch
is
made after the
Milk Punch, No.
in such
following fashion.
2.
Boil together a quart of milk, four ounces of loaf

sugar, a small stick of cinnamon, and the peel of one
lemon ; then beat together the yolks of three eggs and

the white of one
dually,
you pour
noyau.
add the boiling compound very gra-
and keep continually

into
stirring the mixture while
a wine-glassful of
it
rum and one
of
Serve hot.
The following compound

in high esteem
derives its
is
said to have been held
by the Prince Regent, from
whom
it
name.
Regent's Punch.
To
a pint of strongly
made green
and juice of two lemons, one
tea
add the rinds
Seville orange,
and one
sweet orange, with half a pound of loaf sugar and a

small stick of cinnamon. After standing for half an hour,
strain the mixture,
add a bottle of champagne, half
a bottle of sherry, three wine-glasses of brandy;
rum,
Curacoa, and noyau, of each a wine-glass, and a pint

of pine-apple syrup.
compound
Ice the
well,
and,
immediately before
drinking, add a bottle of soda-water.
Cold Milk Punch (German Recipe).
Take the
finely
shredded rind of one, and the juice of
48
one bottle of rum, one pint of arrack, half
three, lemons,
pound
of loaf sugar,
the sugar
melted, pour one quart of boiling milk on
is
the above, cover
through a bag,
Many
When
and a quart of cold water.
as
it
it
closely for four hours,
and run
Punch might be added,
other recipes for
Egg Punch, Almond Punch, Punch
for instance,
it
should be quite bright.
as,
a la
Romaine, Spiced Punch, Red Punch, Leander Punch,

&c.
but the few we have prescribed will be found
we
reliable, so
refrain
from swelling the
The simple admixture

either
list.
of spirits and water
by the name of Toddy, which
is
a corruption of
an Indian word, Taddi (the sap of the palm

the
more
tree), or
cognomen.
Before the time of Admiral
Vernon, rum was given to the seamen in
to
by
truly English appellation of Grog, which thus
derives its
state
known
is
but he ordered
delivery,
it
to
be
diluted,
raw
its
previously
with a certain quantity of water.
This
watering of their favourite liquor so incensed the tars

that they
nicknamed the Admiral " Old Grog," in
allusion to a
grogram coat which he was
in the habit of
wearing.
Addison gives a numerous account of a Tory squire
whom
he met by chance in a country
ride,
and who
maintained, over a bowl of punch, to which he was evidently addicted, that England would do very well
T
w ould content
itself
with
depend upon foreigners.
its
if it
own productions and not
Addison reminded him, to
his great discomfiture, that, of the favourite drink
he
49
was enjoying, the water was the only constituent of

English production, and that the brandy, lemon, spice,
and sugar were
foreigners.
all
WINE
Of
all
compound
CUPS.
drinks, those having wine for their
and
basis require the greatest care in their preparation
the greatest nicety in their
be evident to any one
This will
composition.
who remembers
the fact that
not one wine- drinker out of twenty, except by subterfuge or previous practice, can distinguish, with his
eyes closed, a glass of sherry from one of port, although,
when wide awake, no one ever confounds the two and

there are few who cannot distinguish a glass of fine old
;
white port
It is
when they have
the chance of tasting
it.
not our object, however, to discourse on the

wines,
merits of particular
but to
give
recipes
for
the blending of such as are most palatable and whole-
some.
First
on the
list
we
most agreeable, wholesome,

easily obtained,
place Claret Cup, as the

easily
compounded, and
and because, under the new tariff, most
people have learned to distinguish the difference be-
tween the two
though
varieties of
at present,
we
French wines, more or
fear,
to
less,
use an expression of
Charles Dickens, " generally less."
50
Claret Cup,
To
Bordeaux
a bottle of
No.
1.
add two wine-glasses
claret
and a wine-glass of Maraschino, with a small
of sherry
quantity of powdered
and
well iced
lump
Let the above be
sugar.
put into a cup, and, immediately before
drinking, add a bottle of soda-water which has also
been previously
iced,
and
stick in
Claret Cup,
To each
two sprigs of borage.
No.
bottle of ordinary claret
2.
add a bottle of soda-
water, a glass of sherry or Curacoa, the peel of a
lemon
cut very thin, with powdered sugar according to taste.
Let the whole stand an hour or two before serving, and

then add some clear
ice.
Claret Cup, No. 3.
To
the above add a few slices of cucumber, or some
sprigs of borage instead of cucumber.
Claret Cup,
As No.
when
five
No.
4.
2, except the lemon-peel, for
which substitute,
in season, a pint of ripe raspberries, or four or
peaches or nectarines cut in
This
slices.
is
a most
delicious beverage.
Mulled
The
best
way
Claret.
of mulling claret
is
simply to heat
it
with a sufficient quantity of sugar and a stick of cin-
To
namon.
added,
if
this a small quantity of
preferred.
brandy may be
51
Burgundy Cup.
To
of
bottle
noyau,
Burgundy wine add a wine-glass
of
wine-glasses
three
pine-apple
of
syrup,
one wine-glass of brandy, and a quarter of a pound

of powdered sugar
ice well
or soda-water before drinking,
add a
bottle of seltzer-
and serve with a sprig
of borage.
Hock Cup, No.

To
1.
a bottle of hock add three wine-glasses of sherry,
one lemon
and some balm or borage.
sliced,
stand two hours
sweeten to
and add a
taste,
Let
it
bottle of
seltzer-water.
Hock Cup, No.

" May-Trank "
is
most popular beverage on the
Take with each
Rhine.
2.
bottle of light
hock about a
dozen sprigs of woodruff, a quarter of an orange cut

in
small
sugar.
slices,
and about two ounces
The herbs
are
to
been in the wine half an hour.
wine added to four or

improvement.
of
powdered
be removed, after having
bottle of sparkling
five bottles of still
little ice is
hock
is
a great
recommended.
Hock Cup, No.
3.
Instead of woodruff and orange take to each bottle

of
hock about half a pint of highly flavoured straw-
berries.
Sugar
as
above.
The
fruit is to
with the wine after having been in
it
be taken
about an hour.
i)2
52
Hock Cup, No.

Take some thin
slices of
4.
pine-apple instead of the
strawberries.
Hock Cup, No.

Take
to each
bottle of
peaches peeled and cut in
5.
hock two highly flavoured
slices.
Sugar as above.
Champagne Cup.
To
bottle
champagne add a wine-glass
of
of
Madeira or sherry, a liqueur-glass of Maraschino, two

slices of Seville orange-peel,
and one
Before drinking, pour in
peel.
lemon-
slice of
a bottle of
seltzer-
and serve with a sprig of verbena or a very
water,
small piece of thinly cut peeling of cucumber.
Moselle Cup, No.
To
leaf
1.
a bottle of Moselle add a sweet orange sliced, a

or
currant.
two of mint,
sage,
borage,
and the black
Let this stand for three hours
and sweeten to
strain
off,
taste with clarified sugar.
Moselle Cup, No. 2.
To each
bottle of
still
or sparkling Moselle
add one
bottle of soda-water, a glass of sherry or brandy, four
or five thin slices of pine-apple, the peel of half a

cut very thin,
let
and powdered sugar according
lemon
to taste
the whole stand about an hour, and before serving
add some lumps of
clear ice.
53
Moselle Cup, No. 3.
As No.
2, except the pine-apple, for
which substitute
a pint of fresh strawberries, or three or four peaches or

nectarines.
Moselle Cup, No. 4.
As No.
woodruff.
for
2,
but add, instead of
Woodruff
is
a herb
making May-Trank,
powerful in
May
it
its
fruit,
some sprigs of
much used on
the
Rhine
peculiar flavour being most
grows in forests in many parts of
England.
Moselle Cup, No. 5.
When
neither fruit nor woodruff can be obtained,
add, instead
of sherry or brandy, a glass or two of
milk-punch, or essence of punch, and a
little
more of
the lemon-peel.
Cutler's Moselle Cup.
Half a pound of loaf sugar steeped in water to satuone orange thinly
ration,
young woodruff, and two
sliced,
N.B. Hock may be substituted
bottle of
proves
a handful of fresh
bottles of Moselle.
Bordeaux added
for Moselle.
to the foregoing im-
it.
Mulled Port.
To
a bottle of matured
sherry,
some
cloves,
piece of bruised
port
add a wine-glass of
cinnamon, nutmeg, and a small
lemon-peel.
Simmer
the
spice
in
54
a
little
add the wine
water, then
let it boil,
heat,
but do not
and sweeten.
Mulled Sherry.
The same
as for
mulled port, with the addition of a
wine-glass of brandy.
Sherry Cooler.
Fill a
tumbler three parts
full of pounded ice, to
which
add two wine-glasses of sherry, a tablespoonful of

brandy, two teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar, and two
Pour the mixture
or three small pieces of lemon.
rapidly from
one tumbler to another several times,
throw in half a dozen strawberries, and drink the mixture through a straw, or stick of maccaroni.
Cider Cup.
To
a quart of cider
add half a lemon squeezed, three
tablespoonfuls of powdered
lump
sugar,
two
wine-
glasses of pale brandy, a wine-glass of Curacoa, two

slices of
well,
lemon, with grated nutmeg on the top.
Ice
and serve with borage.

Morgan's Herefordshire Cup.
To two
bottles of cider
add a bottle of port and a
bottle of soda-water, orange-peel,
and plenty of sugar.
Ice well and serve with borage.
Donaldson's Cider Cup.
To
a bottle of cider
add one wine-glass of sherry, one
55
liqueur-glass of orange-brandy, half a liqueu/-glass of
Curacoa, and before drinking add a bottle of seltzerwater, a sprig of mint,
and two or three lumps of
ice.
The "Field" Cider Cup.
Mix
together two quarts of old bottled cider sweeten
to taste, taking care that the sugar
add half
nutmeg
grated, a
little
is
perfectly melted,
powdered ginger, a
glass of brandy, a glass of noyau, cut a
moderately thin
in
Make
ice.
it
slices,
and
let
it
lemon into
two hours before wanted, and stand
There
is
it
remain there.
in
some
no better recipe than the above.

White's Club House Cup.
Three bottles of
claret,
one bottle of water, one wine-
glass of Madeira, a liqueur-glass of Maraschino, four
sweet oranges, three thin
slices of
cucumber or
a piece
of borage, half a pint of sirup, the flower
and young-
part of borage, orange sliced with the peel
let it
for three hours, then stir the sirup in
sugar to half a pint of water, boiled
stand
one pound of
till it
thickens.
Loving Cup.
One
pint of mountain wine, one of Madeira,
and one
of Lisbon, one bottle of champagne, oue liqueur-glass

of pale brandy, three thin slices of lemon, sugar, nut-
meg.
Ice to taste.
Djonka
One pound and
[a
Russian Beverage).
a half of
lump sugar
in very large
56
lumps, one bottle of Cognac, one bottle of sherry or

Madeira, three bottles of Moselle or hock, one bottle
of
champagne, half a pound of blanched almonds, the
thinly shred rind of four lemons, four peaches sliced,
These are the
or one pine-apple or preserved fruit.

ingredients.
Now
well-tinned copper stewpan
the Cognac over the sugar, lighting
and the
dissolves
spirit is
Pour by degrees
it
as
you pour
it
on.
through the bars of the gridiron,
burnt out
Next add the sherry and
this constitutes caramel.
fruity materials,
to digest for fifteen minutes, after
Moselle, and transfer the
which allow
which pour
compound
in the
into a bowl.
serving add a bottle of champagne.

flat
a large
place a gridiron, and on
the gridiron the big lumps of sugar.
The sugar
On
to prepare the nectar.
On
Serve round in
champagne-glasses with a spoon to each for ex-
tracting the fruit.
[Cutler.)
ODE TO BEER.
Hail, beer
In
all
thy forms of Porter, Stingo, Stout,
Swipes, Double X, Ale, Heavy, Out and Out,
Most
Hail
dear.
thou that mak'st man's heart as big as
Of Ceres' gifts the

That furnishest
Jove's,
best,
A cure for all our griefs,
barm
for all our
loaves.
! :

Oli
Sir
May
John Barleycorn, thou glorious Knight of Malt-a,
thy fame never alter
Great Britain's Bacchus
And with
I
57
thy Ale ease
pardon
all
our failings,
all
our ailings.
Ve emptied many a barrel in my time

And, may he, shall empty many more
Before
O'er the Styx I
sail.
E'en when an infant I was fond of Ale,
A sort of Ale-y-baby,
And
still
I love, in spite of gibes and jokes
Of wine-ing folks.
For Stout I 've stoutly fought for many a year,
For Ale I '11 fight till I 'm laid on my bier.
October oh, intoxicating name no drink
That e'er was made on earth can match with
Of best French brandy in the Palais Royal
!
Ve emptied many
And
a phial,
think
That double
On thy
thee.
X beats O.D.V.
banks, Rhine,
I 've drank such wine
As Bacchus'
But, oh
self
might well unsober
Johannisberg thy beams are shorn
By our John Barleycorn,

And Hock is not Hock-tober.
As
for the rest, Cape, Claret, Calcavella,
They
are but " leather
and prunella,"
and musty.
the side of Ale
Stale, flat,
By
Imperial Tokay
Itself gives
way,
Sherry turns pale,
And
Port grows crusty.
Rum, Whisky, Hollands seem
And
so
much
Hodges's Mountain-Dew turns out
A mere Hodge-Podge.
Of Bishojxs e'en, god wot
I don't
much
like the flavour,
sour crout,
58
Politically speaking (but, then, politics are not
My trade)
Exception should be made
In Doctor Malth/s favour.
" In vino Veritas " they say but that
;
's
a fable,
A most egregious blunder.

I 've been at
many
a wine-bibbing ere now,
And vow,
For one that
told the truth across the table,
I 've seen a dozen lying under.
Besides, as old
Sam Johnson
said once, I 've no patience
With men who never tell the sober truth

But when they 're drunk, and are n't to be believed, forsooth,
Except in their
Oh
4'e-bations.
do not think, you
who
these praises hear,
Dont think my muse be-mused with beer,

Nor that in speaking thus my pleasure
I go beyond beer measure.
But stay,
It
's
time to end this lay
Tho' I could go on rhyming for a year

In praise of Beer,
And
think
But many
it
sport
folks I
know
like
something
short.
BEER CUPS.
These cups should always be made with good sound
ale,
but not too strong
and should invariably be drank
from the tankard, and not poured into glasses, as they

are generally
sight,
and
more agreeable
it is
to
the taste than to the
imperative that they should be kept hot.
Hot Ale Cup.
To
a quart of ale, heated, add
two wine-glasses of
59
one wine-glass of sherry, two tablespoonfuls of
gin,
American
bitters,
plenty of cloves and cinnamon, and
four tablespoonfuls of moist sugar.
Copus Cup.
Heat two quarts of
ale
add four wine-glasses of
brandy, three wine-glasses of noyau, a pound of lump

sugar, and the juice of one lemon.
bread, stick a slice of lemon on
it
Toast a
slice of
with a dozen cloves,
over which grate some nutmeg, and serve hot.
Donaldson's Beer Cup.
To
a pint of ale add the peel of half a lemon, half a
liqueur- glass of noyau, a bottle of seltzerwater, a
nutmeg and
sugar,
and
little
ice to taste.
Freemasons' Cup.
pint of Scotch
ale,
a pint of mild beer, half a pint
of brandy, a pint of sherry, half a
and plenty of grated nutmeg.
pound
This cup
of loaf sugar,
may
be drank
either hot or cold.
Egg
Add
Flip.
the whites and yolks of three eggs, beaten toge-
ther with three ounces of
strong ale
lump
sugar, to half a pint of
heat the mixture nearly to the boiling-point
then put in two wine-glasses of gin or rum (the former

being preferable), with some grated nutmeg and ginger
add another pint of hot
ale,
and pour the mixture
frequently from one jug to another before serving.
60
LIQUEURS.
Under
this
head we supply only a few recipes which,
by experience, we know
of the rarer
and
to
be good, omitting a long
list
which are imported from
finer kinds
abroad, with the advice that
it
is
better to purchase
liqueurs of first-rate quality from a first-class house,
own
rather than produce an inferior article of one's
making.
Curacoa.
To every wine -quart
of the best pale brandy
add the
very finely pared rinds of two Seville oranges and of
one lemon, and
let
the mixture stand for three weeks.
Then
carefully strain
finely
powdered sugar-candy
off
the liquid, and add as
much
as the liquid will dissolve
(about a pound to each bottle).

frequently shaken, for a month.
The mixture should be

If the rind of a shad-
dock can be procured, a third part of
it,
mixed with the
orange, will impart a peculiar aromatic and very delicious flavour to the cordial.
Gin, rum, or whisky
may
be substituted for brandy in this recipe, but not with
an equally good
effect.
Cherry Brandy.
To each wine-bottle
of
brandy add a pound of Mo-
rello cherries (not too ripe),
and half a pint of the ex-
pressed juice of the small black cherry called
"Brandy-
Let this stand for a week, and then add half
blacks."
a
pound
pound
of
of
powdered lump sugar and a quarter of a
powdered sugar-candy, with half an ounce of
The longer
blauched bitter almonds.

better
it
61
will
Where
become.
it
is
kept, the
the juice of the black
cherry cannot be obtained, sirup of mulberries will be
found an excellent
substitute.
Brandy
To each
Bitters.
gallon of brandy add seven ounces of sliced
geDtian-root,
five
ounces
of
dried
two
orange-peel,
ounces of seeds of cardamoms, one ounce of bruised
cinnamon, half an ounce of cloves, and a small quantity

cochineal
of
to
colour
Many
it.
other
ingredients
may be added which complicate the flavour; but none

make the above compound more wholesome or
will
palatable.
Ginger Brandy.
To each
bottle of
ginger bruised
let
brandy add two ounces of the best

it
stand for a week
the liquid through muslin, and add a
powdered sugar-candy.
then strain
pound
of finely
This should be kept at least
one year.
Hunting -flask.
As
to the best
compound
for a hunting-flask,
seldom be found that any two

as a rule, the
man who
men
perfectly agree
carries the largest,
liberal with it to his friends, will
it
and
is
will
yet,
most
be generally esteemed
62
Some
the best concocter.
there
who
are
prefer
to
others a flask of gin into which a dozen cloves have
all
been inserted, while others, younger in age and more

parts of gin
fantastic in taste, believe in equal
For our own
noyeau, or of sherry and Maraschino.

part,
we must admit
and
a strong predilection for a pull at
a flask containing a well-made cold punch, or a dry
Curacoa.
Then, again,
if
huntsman, who (of course)

to be
up
we take the opinion

recommends a
in such matters, he
of our
and ought
a spicy fellow,
is
piece of
dry ginger always kept in the waistcoat pocket
and
does not care a fig for anything else.

So much for
difference of taste
but as we have promised a recipe,
:
the one
we venture
to insert
specially dedicated to
is
the lovers of usquebaugh, or " the crathur "

:
favourite of
we
no
believe not
will find favour
less a
man
generally
it
was a
than Eobert Burns, and one
known
we
therefore hope
it
with our readers, as a wind-up to our
brewings.
To
a quart of whisky add the rinds of two lemons,
and a pound of ripe
an ounce of bruised ginger,
white currants stripped from their stalks.
Put these
ingredients into a covered vessel, and let
them stand
for
a few days
pound
of
two days
then
powdered
strain
loaf sugar.
after the sugar has
Printed by
carefully,
Taylor and
This
and add one
may be
bottled
been added.
Fbajtcis,
Red Lion
Court, Fleet Street.
JOHN VAN VOORST, PATERNOSTER ROW.
HOUSE DOGS AND SPORTING DOGS:

Management, Training, Breeding, and
Meyrick. Fcp. 8vo, 3.9. 6d.
Points,
"A
little
life,
Six Coloured Figures, size

Drawn and
now used in Falconry.

by W. Brodrick. Folio, 2 2s. clotb.
of the British Species
described
By John
Examiner.
canine encyclopaedia."
FALCONERS' FAVOURITES.
of
Their Varieties,
Diseases.
THE ANGLER-NATURALIST;
a Popular History of British

Fresh-water Fisb, &c. &c. By H. Cholmondeley Pennell.
Illustrated by 150 Engravings.
Crown 8vo, 10.?. 6d.
" Anglers will do well to put Mr. Pennell's book in tbeir pocket
wben they go out fishing, which will add to the enjoyment of the
expedition."
Spectator.
HERALDRY OF
hundred
By Thomas Moule.
FISH.
families are noticed in this
descriptions of fisb, fishing-nets,
Nearly six
work; and besides the several
and boats, are included also
and shell-fish. Nearly seventy ancient seals

and upwards of twenty subjects in stained glass.
The engravings, two hundred and five in number, are from stained
glass, tombs, sculpture and carving, medals and coins, rolls of
arms, and pedigrees.
8vo, 21s.; a few on large paper (royal
mermaids,
tritons,
are described,
8vo) for colouring,
2s.
THE VICAR OF WAKEFIELD.

William Mulready,
R.A.
With 32 Illustrations by
John Thompson.
engraved by
Square 8vo, 10.9. 6rf.

there are some designs in the volume in which art may justly
boast of having added something to even the exquisite fancy of
First reprint.
"
And
Goldsmith."
Examiner.
BRITISH WILD FLOWERS.
Illustrated
by Sowerby.
Described by Johnson.
A large 8vo volume, with coloured figures of the 1780 Plants
growing wild in this countrv, including the Ferns, Horsetails, and
Club Mosses, 3 3*.
" One of the prettiest natural-history volumes now on sale."
The
Gardeners' Chronicle.
JOHN VAN VOORST,
PATERNOSTER ROW
Natural
fimty
of t^e QBrittetj 3i$e0.
Tlie following series of works, being portions of a Natural

is illustrated by many hundred
engravings every species has been drawn and engraved under
the immediate inspection of the authors the best artists have
been employed, and no care or expense has been spared.
History op the British Isles,

;
QUADRUPEDS. By Professor Bell. A new Edition.
(In
the press.)
BIRDS. By Mr. Yarrell.

4 14s. 6d.
Three
Third Edition.
vols.
COLOURED ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE EGGS OF

BIRDS. By Mr. Hewitson.
4 14s. M.
REPTILES.
By
Third Edition.
Professor Bell.
Second Edition.
FISHES. By Mr. Yarrell. Third Edition.

John Richardson. Two vols. 3 3s.
STALK-EYED CRUSTACEA.
1
By
vols.
2s.
Edited by Sir
Professor Bell.
8vo.
5s.
SESSILE-EYED CRUSTACEA. By Mr. Spence Bate and

Professor Westwood.
Two vols. 8vo. 3.
By
STAR-FISHES.
Professor
Edward Forbes.
HYDROID ZOOPHYTES. By
Two
B.A.
vols.
8vo.
the Rev.
Thomas Hincks,
2s.
ZOOPHYTES. By Dr. Johnston.

2
15.9.
Second Edition.
2 vols.
2s.
MOLLUSCOUS ANIMALS AND THEIR SHELLS. By

Professor Edward Forbes and Mr. Hanley.
8vo, 6 10s. ; royal 8vo, coloured, 13.
FOREST TREES. By Mr.

FERNS.
FOSSIL
1
By
Mr.
Newman.
MAMMALS AND
Selby.
8s.
Third Edition.
BIRDS.
Four vols.
By
18s.
Professor
Owen.
lis. 6d.
JOHN VAN VOORST,
PATERNOSTER ROW.
17131
0ssam
BOSTON COLLEGE
3 9031 01449607 9
DOES NOT CIRCULATE
BOSTON COLLEGE LIBRARY

UNIVERSITY HEIGHTS
CHESTNUT
Books may be kept
HILL,
for
MASS.
two weeks and may be
renewed for the same period, unless
Two
cents a day
is
reserved.
charged for each book kept
overtime.
If
you cannot
Librarian
who
The borrower
on
his card
find
will
is
and for
what you want, ask the
be glad to help you.

responsible for books drawn
all fines
accruing on the same.

Cups and Their Customs

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Description:

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Cups and Their Customs

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Hi

Digitized by the Internet Archive

2011 with funding from

Boston Library Consortium

London Published by John Van Voorst Paternoster Row.

CUPS AND THEIR CUSTOMS.

the wine is red,

leaps to the lips of the free

Griory or danger each gallantly shares

Touch brim touch foot once again, old friend,

INTED BY TAYLOR AND FRANCIS,

principal object of these pages

drinks, technically called

and approved by repeated

their virtues tested

These we are inclined

put into type,

were more generally

would be the means

age of progress, most things are raised to

the position of a science,

the term please our readers,

should not hold a respectable

due mead of praise

cursory glance at the customs which have been

attached to drinking from the earliest periods to

the present time.

but only as an arrange-

of such scraps as have from time to time

our way, and have helped us to form

ideas of the social

have selected a sprig of Borage for our

of the usefulness of that

pleasant herb in the flavouring of cups.

in England, plants for flavouring are

So much are they

accounted of rare virtue.

esteemed in the East, that an anti-Brahminical

showing the worthlessness

superstitions, says, "

They command you

down a living and sweet

Our use of flavourthis justly condemned

our endeavours are directed towards the resuscitation of better

times than those

times of heartier customs and of more genial

for the departure

of the golden age, in the spirit of

" Would our bottles but grow deeper,

Did our wine but once get cheaper,

times, the age of gold

" But not for us

've got the

daily dearer grows our wine,

paper age instead

and void our pockets

rather the cry of those

drink, than of our wiser selves,

charms of other drinks, in modera-

The apple has had

a share of our favour,

being recommended to our literary notice by an

Of cyder famed, whence