Professional Documents
Culture Documents
PERFECT TUSCANY
! ay
IN
W
mily holid
A fa
to Sardinia
worth
2000
Venice in a weekend
Discover the best of La Serenissima
SICILYS HIDDEN HILL TOWNS
Explore the island shaped by Etna
LAKE GARDAS BEST
SWIMMING SPOTS
COOKING
WITH GINO
Quick Italian dishes
to cook at home
Issue 116 July 2014 4.40
07
9 771744 796054
W E L C O M E T O I TA L I A !
Welcome!
SUBSCRIBE TO ITALIA!
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AWARD WINNER!
LAURA SANTTINI is
a cook, author and
restaurateur. Her
family established
Belgravias Santini
restaurant, a
favourite of Frank
Sinatra, which
Laura now oversees
alongside her work as a food developer
with her range of avour enhancing
powders and pastes. See the range at www.
laurasanttini.com or nd them in Waitrose.
71
80
64
IN THI
July 2014
PROPERTY
20 HOMES IN UMBRIA
The Green Heart of Italy is much adored by
discerning visitors and foreign homebuyers,
says Fleur Kinson.
60 PROPERTY FOCUS: LE MARCHE
That perfect combination of mountain and
sea is easy to find in Le Marche, Italys most
up-and-coming region.
60
48
HOLIDAYS
30 48 HOURS IN VENICE
Marina Spironetti discovers the authentic
pleasures of Italys most fairy-tale city.
38 IN THE SHADOW OF MOUNT ETNA
Jane Gifford explores one of the worlds
largest and most active volcanoes.
48 DISCOVER SYRACUSE
Gretta Schifano found an abundance of
archaeological sites to explore.
55 HIKING IN TUSCANY
Sebastian Cresswell-Turner joins Hedonistic
Hiking for a taste of their walking tours.
64 WILD SWIMMING
Michele Tameni highlights the best spots to
take a dip on and around Lake Garda.
75
CULTURE
29 SPEAK ITALIA!
Tamsin Smith examines the effects of Ethical
Purchasing Groups on how Italians buy food.
70 FERRAGAMO
Freya Middleton charts the rise of Salvatore
Ferragamo and his luxury goods company.
84
IN THIS ISSUE
LAKE GARDA
p30
p64
p55
VENICE
TUSCANY
p60
UMBRIA
LE MARCHE
p20
ASCOLI PICENZA
ROME
p46
PUGLIA
p38
SYRACUSE
p10
SICILY
p48
MORE ITALIA!
7 PHOTO OF THE MONTH
Enter your photographs for your chance
to win a bottle of Nino Franco Prosecco!
9 LETTERS
Readers share their stories and pictures
from their experiences in Italy.
10 VIEWPOINT
San Nicola, in Puglias Tremiti
Archipelago.
12 NEWS
All the headline stories from
Italy this month.
16 TOP PICKS
Picnics, sunglasses and special
reader offers.
18 EVENTS IN JULY
Highlights from across Italy for
your forthcoming visit.
36 COMPETITION
Win a 2,000 family holiday to Sardinia.
ON THE COVER
44 SUBSCRIBE TO ITALIA!
Save 25 per cent off the shop price when
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46 PAST ITALIA!
The golden mosaic ceiling of Romes Santa
Maria in Trastevere.
86 ASK THE EXPERTS
Insider knowledge on living,
working and travelling in Italy.
92 BOOK REVIEWS
This months new releases.
94 GETTING THERE
Plan your ights to Italy from
the UK and Ireland.
98 MY ITALIA!
Charlotte Jaconelli and partner
Jonathan Antoine nished as
runners-up in Britains Got
Talent in 2012. What is she up
to now?
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p36
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p80
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ITALIA!
www.italytravelandlife.com
enquiries@leplaw.co.uk
www.leplaw.co.uk
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Join a group of Australian private owners
sharing a set of recently constructed
apartments in the small town of
Mercatello sul Metauro in the mountains
of Marche, Italy.
Visit www.casamercatello.com
Email us ciao@casamercatello.com
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THIS MONTHS WINNER
Leslie Toth, Heidelberg,
Ontario, Canada
We have many sweet memories
of Italy, from driving experiences
noboody drives like the Italians
to unforgettable restaurants and
fascinating accommodations.
THIS MONTHS
RUNNER UP
Rachel Markwick
We recently spent a week in
Rome followed by a week in a
small town near Viterbo. On
the morning after our arrival
in the village of Bassano in
Teverina, we were suddenly
surrounded by Fiat 500s as
there was a rally of a local
owners club!
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LETTERS TO ITALIA!
Share all your Italian experiences with us by sending your photos
and letters to italia@anthem-publishing.com youll receive
a gourmet gift set if youre chosen as our Letter of the Month winner
ETTER
NTH L
BLOGGING IN UMBRIA
JULY
2014
OF T
MO
HE
GOOD TIMES IN
ABRUZZO?
Our letter of the month (when based in the UK) will win a 25
voucher to spend at www.delicibo.com, recently launched to
complement the Chestereld-based Calabria Cucina & Delicibo Deli.
delicibo.com
provides a
wide range of
artisan Italian
food and drink
items for your
enjoyment at
home.
Write to us at italia@anthem-publishing.com
FACEBOOK
VIEWPOINT
100,000 visitors come to San Nicola in the Tremiti Archipelago
in Puglia in the summer season. Ferry services from the mainland
operate from Termoli, Foggia, Vieste, Rodi Garganico and Capoiale
The Isole Tremiti are an archipelago in the
Adriatic Sea, and their name relates to
their seismic hazard tremiti translates to
tremors. The area is known for its crystalclear waters and pleasantly mild climate.
Of the five small islands, San Nicola is
the smallest but also where most of the
areas population resides as a small tourist
centre that is home to only a small handful
NEWS
THIS MONTH
July 2014
AN ARBOREAL
RENAISSANCE
Italy is experiencing sustained reforestation,
according to a recently published inventory.
The Inventario Nazionale Forestale reports
the most pronounced new growth since 2005
in agricultural regions such as Molise and Sicily,
which have seen areas of woodland increase by 17
and 16 per cent respectively. Presenting the ndings, Dr Enrico
Pompei identied old farmland, especially in hilly, southern
areas, as the new territory trees are colonizing. CO2 absorbed
by forests in Italy is equivalent to half the emissions from the
transport sector, claimed Dr Pompei, though he warned of
the risk of forest res from densely-packed young trees.
Bristly Italy is now 35 per cent forest, roughly three times
the proportion of balding Britain, but some way behind
hirsute Sweden, Europes woodiest nation, at 75 per cent.
SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS
WORLD CUP WILL BE A FAMILY
AFFAIR FOR PRANDELLIS TEAM
Cesare Prandelli, head coach of the Italian
national football team, has welcomed
players families into their training camp
in Brazil. While acknowledging the novelty
of the decision, he hopes that the presence
of children will bring harmony and
happy moments. Italy always enters the
World Cup under intense scrutiny and high
expectations, though they are considered
outsiders this time around. The Azzurri last
won the tournament in 2006.
Bristly Italy is now 35 per cent forest, roughly three times the proportion of
balding Britain, but some way behind hirsute Sweden, Europes woodiest
nation, at 75 per cent
DAVID STILL STANDING ON
FRACTURED ANKLES
Bad posture can lead to joint problems in
the ttest of us, and standing slouched
against a tree stump for over half a
millennium seems to have caught up with
Michelangelos statue of David.
Scientists have discovered microfractures on the lower part of
both legs, likely caused by
vibrations from visitors and
passing trafc, and the poor
quality marble from which
David is sculpted.
However, calls to
move his ve and a
half tonne frame
from the Galleria
dellAccademia
to a dedicated,
earthquakeproof home
have been
rejected
by Florences
museum authority. Spokesman Marco
Ferri asserted that even if there
is an earthquake of 5.0 or 5.5 on
the Richter scale, Florence will stay
in one piece. And David would be
the last to fall, simultaneously
reassuring art lovers while also
tempting fate.
S...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPE
MEDITERRANEAN DIET JUNKED?
Southern Italians are choosing junk food
over their traditional menu of sh, olive
oil and plenty of fruit and vegetables,
according to Italys state broadcaster, RAI.
An advert promoting the World Expo in
2015 cited statistics claiming that half
the population of Campania is overweight.
It ended with the provocative question,
When will the Mediterranean diet come
home? Stefano Pisani, the trim mayor of
Pollica, branded the advert an offence to
the dignity of the people.
NEWS
WEB WATCH
Pets on Holiday
PETSINITALY.LAVIGNAALPACAS.COM
Have you ever wondered about the legal practicalities of taking
your pet to Italy? Do you need some advice on your pets health?
Or perhaps you want to nd out how to adopt a dog or cat in
Italy? This website offers everything you need, as animal lover
Fiona Tankard uses her decades of experience to advise you on
everything you could possibly want to know.
INAMORADA.COM
If youre looking for
some ne Italian
tailoring for your dogs,
then look no further.
Inamoradas philosophy
is to create an exclusive
line of canine haute
couture, and one look
at their website tells
you theyve achieved exactly that. All dogs, big and small, will
look their Sunday best in one of these stunning outts that look
like theyve come straight off the runway.
EN.ESCAPIO.COM/PET-FRIENDLY-HOTELS/ITALY
It can be tricky to nd a pet-friendly place to stay in Italy,
but this fantastically useful website resolves those problems
completely. With easily
navigable menus and
a visually appealing
homepage, this should
be anybodys go-to
for the best hotels
that Italy has to offer
people and their
faithful companions.
TOP
TRY THIS!
ITALIA!S
Top picks
TUSCANY AL FRESCO
BOARD WITH
VINTAGE PRINT
An acacia food board,
perfect for this summers
picnics, barbecues and
al fresco eating. 400
x 300 x 20mm. See
stockists for prices.
www.tg-woodware.com
WEAR THESE!
MONDELLIANI
VISIT THIS!
EAT THIS!
WELCOME ITALIA
Discover the avours of Italy! The
Welcome Italia show takes place at the
Royal Horticultural Halls, London SW1,
on 26-28 September 2014. The UKs best
Italian chefs, led by Francesco Mazzei,
will cook delicious signature dishes that
will transport your taste buds to Italy.
As well as cookery demonstrations,
there will be seminars and wine-tasting
events to introduce you to the origins of
Italian products. Bookings are open now.
Admission to the show is 10, but you
can get in for 5 by quoting the exclusive
code Italia. www.welcome-italia.co.uk
Top 3 Italian
LAGER BEERS
BIRRA MORETTI
Like so many brands, Birra Moretti
is now owned by Heineken. The
company was founded in Udine in 1859
by Luigi Moretti, but was acquired by
Heineken in 1996 and the brewing plant
in Udine was sold to the newly formed
Birra Castello SpA. Birra Moretti is the
main brand, a 4.6% ABV pale lager
launched in 1859; followed by La Rossa,
a 7.2% strong dark lager. Other brands
include Doppio Malto, Baffo dOro, and
Sans Souci. www.birramoretti.com
WIN!
NEWS
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NOTTE ROSA
4 July
Adriatic Coast,
Emilia-Romagna
Think pink! Pink Night
in Emilia-Romagna is
seen as the Italian
summers New Years
Eve, with a amboyant
summer carnival in
celebration of nothing
more than the colour
pink. Attracting more
than 50,000 visitors
for a huge party and
pink reworks display,
many buildings and
monuments are bathed
in pink oodlighting
while the streets are
lined with pink streetlamps. Well leave you to
work the dress code out
for yourselves...
U FISTINU SANTA
ROSALIA
15 July
Palermo
This is one of the most
famous and popular
festivals in Sicily, in
honour of patron Saint
Rosalia whose miracle
rid the town of plague
in the 17th century.
The week leading up to
15 July sees Palermo
become a natural openair theatre, featuring
musical bands, Cuban
dancers, parades and
reworks, as well as
a cultural feast that
includes tiny snails and
ice-cream puddings.
CHIC FEATURING
NILE RODGERS
15 July
Piazza Napoleone, Lucca
Its time to get your freak
on! For one night only, as
part of Luccas Summer
Festival, Nile Rodgers,
disco genius and founder
of Chic, is performing
a show to thousands of
spectators who want
to re-live the disco era
of years ago. With the
perfect setting in Luccas
bustling town square,
the warm summer night
makes this a concert you
wont want to miss.
Guillem Lopez/Alamy
SERATA DI SUONI E
SAPORI NELLULIVETO
28 July
Limone, Lake Garda
The picture-postcard
town of Limone is wellknown in Italy for its
lemon gardens and olive
groves. On this evening
of sounds and avours,
a food fair takes place
amongst the olive groves,
combined with the
music of various local
ensembles, making this
a truly authentic Italian
experience. During the
holiday season, the
Tourist Board offers free
guided walks of the area.
Please note that the dates of all events are subject to change. If you plan to attend, check events are going ahead before you travel. All attempts are made to present the correct details.
L I V I N G I TA L I A !
Homes in
Umbria
A tranquil paradise of undulating countryside crowned with perfect medieval hill towns,
Umbria is much adored by discerning visitors and foreign homebuyers. Property prices are on
your side at the moment and its a great time to buy, says Fleur Kinson
Assisi
L I V I N G I TA L I A !
LAKE BOLSENA
Type of property Country House
Number of bedrooms 5
Price 900,000 ono
Location Orvieto, Terni
Contact www.homesitalia.co.uk homesitalia@yahoo.co.uk
Set in the hills above Lake Bolsena, in the beautiful Orvietano
countryside. Renovated about 15 years ago, it has a full-sized
swimming pool, mature garden and nine acres of land, with
the possibility of buying another nine acres with stables. The
main house is approx. 550m and there also two grain silos to
be renovated. The house also incorporates two independent
apartments. On the ground oor there is an entrance hall,
three reception rooms, a kitchen, storeroom, bathroom, and an
independent apartment off the entrance hall. On the rst oor
there are ve bedrooms three with mezzanine oors four
bathrooms, and an independent apartment made up of living
room, kitchenette, bathroom and bedroom with mezzanine oor.
CASALE LE ROSE
Type of property Farmhouse
Number of bedrooms 3
Price 550,000
Location Paciano, Perugia
Contact www.ilcastelloditara.com info@ilcastelloditara.com
Casale Le Rose is a charming 19th century farmhouse of
approximately 200m on two oors with garden and pool. The
garden, which is over half an acre, has vines and olives as well as
a little orchard and pool area. Everything is easily manageable.
The house was beautifully restored, underoor heating put in and
all the original features maintained, including the old terracotta
tiles. There are three bedrooms, two bathrooms, living room and
kitchen on the rst oor. The ground oor was converted into
a little guest at, an art studio and a laundry room with cellar.
There is also an out building full of potential and even the option
of purchasing an adjacent plot of land with building permission
for a one bedroom apartment.
Continued on
page 26
L I V I N G I TA L I A !
3
1
2
INTRODUCTION
Umbria is known as the green heart
of Italy, thanks to the fact that more
than 30 per cent of the region is made
up of woodland. This is a tranquil and
historically rich region, landlocked
on all sides by Tuscany, Lazio and
Le Marche, and situated right in
the middle of Italy although the
Mediterranean and Adriatic coasts
are both only around 90 minutes
drive away for those who just cant
keep away from the seaside. It is
pleasantly uncrowded: Umbrias
population density stands at half the
national average. Yet although it has
a low permanent population, visitor
numbers here are high tourists ock
to Umbria each year, but magically,
PERUGIA
ASSISI
LAKE TRASIMENO
L I V I N G I TA L I A !
LA COLONNA
Type of property Apartment
Number of bedrooms 1
Price 230,000, negotiable
Location Todi, Perugia
Contact Welcome Service
www.welcomeservice.it
info@welcomeservice.it
Mrs Paola +39 339 653 1677
Beautiful, antique, fully restored apartment with panoramic
terrace in the historical centre of Todi. The apartment shows
the original wooden beams and terracotta tiles and measures
approximately 100m on two levels. It features a large living room
with replace and kitchenette, one and a half bathrooms, one
large bedroom, and one study/bedroom with direct access into the
roof terrace. Furniture included.
NARNI
Type of property Country House
Number of bedrooms 5
Price 800,000
Location Narni, Terni
Contact www.homesitalia.co.uk homesitalia@yahoo.co.uk
This 16th century country house (approx. 300m) is surrounded
by about three and a half acres of garden with olive trees and a
small vineyard. The view from the house is magnicent. The house
is on three levels, but since it was built on a hill, the lower level
still opens out onto the garden, allowing for a large amount of
light. On the lower oor the house has a spacious living room
with large French windows leading out onto the garden; on each
side of this room is a double bedroom with en-suite bathroom.
On the ground oor there is the main entrance hall, a large
reception/dining room with replace leading onto a large patio, a
kitchen and a bathroom. The rst oor is made up of two double
bedrooms, a single bedroom and a bathroom with shower.
CASA AMATA
Type of property Village House
Number of bedrooms 4
Price 180,000
Location SantArcangelo, Magione, Perugia
Contact www.ilcastelloditara.com info@ilcastelloditara.com
USEFUL CONTACTS
www.homesitalia.co.uk
www.ilcastelloditara.com
www.itili.com
www.umbrianproperty.com
www.welcomeservice.it
ZZZ RPHV W
D\VFRP
Are you planning your
Italian holiday?
Il Castello di Tara
For a mans home is his castle
Italy has a green heart: Umbria being its centre with an abundance
of historical medieval hamlets, hills dotted with olive groves and
grape vines divided by stunning lines of ancient Cyprus trees
with elds of bright yellow sunowers. The birth place of the
Renaissance art movement, home to Saint Francis the patron
saint of Italy, stunning walled cities not to mention the
delicious home-made food which is Tipico of the region
and of course excellent wine
Truly the ideal location for your new home.
Fall under the Umbrian spell and buy the house of your dreams!
We will assist you right from your initial property search
through to completion (and after too!).
Visit our website or come and say hello; we are based in the
beautiful hilltop village of Panicale.
www.ilcastelloditara.com
0039 0758378011
Painting In Puglia
Capture the beauty of Italy with Tuscan Secrets painting holidays.
The love of art ows through every Italians blood, and you too can be
inspired by the great Giotto, Michaelangelo, Rafael, Caravaggio, and Da
Vinci. Stay in a quaint, family-owned hotel to fully absorb Italian culture,
food and wine to really get your creative juices owing.
Visit the Cinque Terre, Puglia and Umbria 7 nights from 1499.00 per person plus ights.
www.tuscansecrets.com
01344 627586 sales@tuscansecrets.com
S P E A K I TA L I A !
GAZZETTA
ITALIA!
Pesa meno la
spesa GAS
Il fenomeno dei GAS che sta crescendo in lItalia unisce
due delle passioni pi intense della nazione: il cibo e la
compagnia, con i bonus extra di risparmiare soldi, salvare
il pianeta e migliorare la salute e il benessere. Come non
provare ammirazione e perch non lo stiamo facendo tutti?
GAS i Gruppi di Acquisto Solidale sono nati a
Reggio Emilia nel 1994 e ormai si sono sparpagliati per
tutto il paese, con un totale di circa 100,000 membri
e 900 gruppi dalla Valle dAosta no a Sicilia. Tutto
iniziato come reazione alla situazione non etica e insana
delleconomia globale e del consumismo, poi la felice
unione di consumatori e produttori proseguita portando
solidariet nella produzione e nellacquisto del cibo.
Lidea che familiari, amici e vicini di casa si mettono
insieme per creare un gruppo e cercare contadini locali che
producano cibo genuino e bio in un modo etico. Insieme il
gruppo pu comprare in grosse quantit, permettendosi di
acquistare a prezzi pi economici e di mangiare meglio, via
via facendo nuove amicizie. Nel frattempo il contadino
stimolato a continuare a coltivare verdure e allevare animali
in un modo bio e etico, sapendo di poter contare su clienti
regolari che lo apprezzano e che torneranno per rifornirsi la
settimana successiva.
GAS necessita che il cibo provenga da piccoli
produttori locali e bio che rispettano lambiente, gli animali
e i lavoratori. La fede e la solidariet fra gruppo, contadini
e ambiente sono i valori etici principali sui quali il sistema
si basa: un concetto ammirevole se si pensa al livello
di popolarit raggiunta dal sistema e la partecipazione
enorme di persone che ne usufruiscono quotidianamente.
Come spiega lorganizzazione, La merce cessa di essere
solo prodotto e diventa anche strumento di relazione tra
soggetti.
Anche prima di sedersi a tavola tutto il processo di
fare la spesa diventa un momento sociale, da godere con
gli amici, e pure il cibo dona pi soddisfazione e felicit
quando si e stati presenti alla sua nascita, crescita e
preparazione. Invece di dover subire i corridoi e casse di
un supermercato ostile si va in campagna per recuperare il
pane, verdura, carne e formaggio da una fattoria locale; si
nisce sempre per chiacchierare con il contadino davanti ad
un bicchiere di vino poi si torna a casa con un bel cestino di
roba fresca, economica e buona, da godere senza dubbio
in compagnia.
Sustainable shopping
The GAS phenomenon spreading throughout Italy essentially
combines two of the nations favourite pastimes: food and
socialising, with the additional bonuses of saving money,
rescuing the planet and improving health and wellbeing.
Whats not to love and why arent we all doing it?
GAS Gruppi di Acquisto Solidale began in Reggio
Emilia in 1994 and has rapidly spread across the country, with
an estimated total of 100,000 members in 900 groups from
Valle dAosta to Sicily. It began as a reaction to the unethical,
unhealthy trends in global economy and consumerism, and
by bringing together consumers and producers it advocates
solidarity in food production and acquisition.
The idea is that like-minded family, friends and
neighbours club together to seek out local farmers and growers
who produce healthy, organic, ethical food. Together the group
can buy in bulk and place regular orders, thereby negotiating
better prices, enjoying better food and making new friends
along the way. Meanwhile the producer is encouraged to
continue his ethical ways, growing organic vegetables and
keeping his hens ethically, knowing he has regular clients who
appreciate him and will be back for more next week.
GAS-approved food must be sourced from small,
local, organic producers who respect the environment,
their workforce and livestock. Trust and solidarity between
neighbours, farmers and the environment are the core ethics
on which the system is based: an admirable concept when one
considers the extent to which this phenomenon has taken off
and how many people adhere to and benet from it on a daily
basis. As the organisation explains, food stops being a product
and becomes a tool for building relationships.
Even before you reach the table the whole process of
shopping becomes a sociable activity to be enjoyed with
friends, with increased joy and satisfaction gained also from
being able to watch your produce being planted, baked or
reared. Far from the dreaded supermarket aisles and cash tills
you have the pleasure of collecting your weekly orders of bread,
veg, meat and dairy from a nearby farm, inevitably having a
chat and sharing a glass of wine with the farmer before heading
home with fresh, hearty, affordable fayre, to be enjoyed no
doubt with friends.
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Clockwise from
top left: Most
people arrive
during Carnival
season or in the
summer; your
preconceptions
about what
Venice is will be
realised; but the
Grand Canal is
not always so
busy; sunset over
Venice; gondolas
sans tourists;
back street;
lantern
48 HOURS IN
Venice
Follow regular contributor Marina Spironetti as she heads off
to the Lagoon and discovers the authentic pleasures of Italys
most fairy-tale city
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
DONT MISS
CAFF FLORIAN
The legendary
Caff Florian, in
Piazza San Marco,
is Venices most
famous, and
oldest, caf. First
opening its doors
in 1720 and
once the haunt
of Lord Byron,
it never fails to
attract a crowd.
Do go inside to
see the opulent
interior.
WHERE TO STAY
CIPRIANI 5
Giudecca 10
Fondamenta San Giovanni
+39 041 520 7744
info.cip@belmond.com
www.hotelcipriani.com
On the tip of the Giudecca island, the
Cipriani is the address to go to do Venice
in style: a harbour for your yacht, a private
boat, a swimming pool and a personal
trainer at your disposal are just a few of
the facilities available. Needless to say,
this is where you have a higher-thanaverage chance of rubbing shoulders with a
lm star, especially during the lm festival.
PALAZZO ABADESSA 6
Calle Priuli
Cannareggio 4011
+39 041 241 3784
info@abadessa.com
www.abadessa.com
Another luxurious address in a historical
palazzo in one of the most charming
districts of Venice. 12 impressive rooms,
some of which are extremely spacious.
Perfect for a romantic getaway.
A sh market
DONT MISS
GILBERTO PENZO
This is your
chance to
pick up that
miniature
gondola youve
always wanted.
Gilberto Penzo
is a maker and
restorer of
wooden model
boats. Youll
nd him hard
at work at Calle
Seconda dei
Saoneri. www.
veniceboats.com
BOSCOLO BELLINI 7
Lista di Spagna 116
+39 041 524 2488
customer.service@hotelinvenice.com
www.boscolobellini.hotelinvenice.com
Just a stones throw from the Santa Lucia
train station, this elegant hotel is ideally
located for your Venetian stay and it
wont break the bank. Recently renovated,
it offers classical Venetian-style rooms
with a very welcome modern twist. The
extremely friendly and helpful staff is the
icing on the cake.
HOTEL MORESCO 8
Sestriere Dorsoduro
+39 041 244 0202
info@hotelmorescovenice.com
www.hotelmorescovenice.com
Just a short walk from the train station,
it offers a quiet but central location.
Rooms are well equipped and beautifully
decorated. Excellent breakfast.
LA VILLEGGIATURA 9
Calle dei Botteri
San Polo 1569
+39 041 524 4673
info@lavilleggiatura.it
www.lavilleggiatura.it
A private house turned into an elegant
maison de charme. Six rooms individually
furnished with precious textiles and
vintage furniture. The rooms on the third
oor are pleasantly spacious a bonus in
a city where extra space is a luxury. The
two attic-rooms are cosier and perfect for a
romantic getaway.
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
WHERE TO EAT
AL VECIO FRITOLIN 10
Calle della Regina, Santa Croce 2262
+39 041 522 2881
www.veciofritolin.it
It used to be an ancient fritolini, a sort of
Venetian-style sh and chips place where
people could buy a portion of fried sh.
Even nowadays the spotlight is on sh
which comes fresh every day from the
Rialto market.
Price range O
CASA BONITA 11
Cannareggio 492
+39 041 524 6164
This family-run, no-frills place is lled with
Venetians on any given day of the week.
The perfect address to sample some of the
best specialities of the Lagoon. Another
excellent place for sh lovers.
Price range O
OSTERIA BANCOGIRO 12
Campo San Giacometto, San Polo 122
+39 041 523 2061
www.osteriabancogiro.it
Perfect to drink an ombra at very fair
prices. You can stay longer for dinner;
the menu changes regularly, according to
the season and the freshest ingredients
available try bigoli local fat spaghetti
with calamari, cardoons and dry tuna eggs
or the very traditional fegato alla veneziana
Venetian-style liver with onions.
Price range O
Price range O
PIZZERIA AI BARI 14
Santa Croce 1175
+39 041 718900
A place that will not leave you
disappointed. Perfect to have a tasty,
inexpensive pizza or to sample some of the
Venetian specialities. Very friendly service.
Price range O
DONT MISS
SKYLINE BAR
If you are
looking to
splurge on an
aperitivo in the
city that made
elegance an art
form, head over
to the Skyline
Bar in the
Hilton Molino
Stucky Venice,
at Giudecca
810. The feel
is casual, the
dcor stylish,
and the view
from the ninth
oor terrace,
overlooking the
Grand Canal all
the way to Piazza
San Marco, is far
from ordinary.
1
11
7
10
9
13
12
3 4
14
GETTING THERE
BY PLANE
Marco Polo airport is 13km from the
city. EasyJet ies there from Gatwick,
Luton, Southend and Manchester. From
there you can either take a motoscafo
(expensive: calculate some 100) or
a shuttle bus to Piazzale Roma, which
takes about 30 minutes. Alternatively,
y to Treviso with Ryanair (www.ryanair.
com), which is 30km away. There is a
regular bus service linking the airport
to Venice. Buses from Marco Polo and
from Treviso are operated by ATVO
downloadable timetables at www.atvo.it
GETTING AROUND
BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Public transport in the city means by
water, by the canal-cutting vaporetto.
The only canals served by this waterbus
are the Canal Grande, the Rio Nuovo and
the Canale di Cannaregio for everything
else you will have to walk. Gondolas
were once used by everybody now they
operate for tourists (and weddings).
Before getting on board make sure you
agree with the gondolier on where you
want to go and how long you expect it to
take, in order to avoid arguments at the
end of your ride. Ofcial rates start at
80 for a daytime 40-minute tour.
DONT MISS
THE CAMPANILE
No trip to Venice
is complete
without an
elevator ride
to the top of
the San Marco
bell tower
the mighty
campanile. At
just under 100
metres high,
on a clear day
its majestic
position offers
breathtaking
views of the city
and lagoon.
Laundry hanging
between houses
COMPETITION
Prize
worth
at least
2,000!
WIN!
A family holiday
to Sardinia
HOW TO ENTER
For your chance to win the prize, simply answer the
following question:
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
IN
THE
Shadow
of Mount Etna
On a clear day, the snow-clad peaks of Mount Etna dominate the landscape. Jane Gifford sets
out from Taormina to explore some of the lesser known places in the shadow of one of the
worlds largest and most active volcanoes
Etnas snow-clad peaks dominate the landscape. I set out to explore some of the lesser known
places in the shadow of one of the worlds most active volcanoes
Further
Clockwise from
left: Northeast
coast of Sicily
from Taormina;
shing boat in
Santa Maria La
Scala; Novara di
Sicilia Judas
tree blossom;
Riposto; Novara
di Sicilia War
Memorial
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Randazzos economy is in the grips of hard times. Many buildings are in need of repair,
though their iron balconies are still adorned with flowers
Clockwise
from top left:
SantAlo, wild
orchids in thanks
for saving village;
SantAlo, cherry
blossom & vines;
Santa Maria La
Scala; Randazzo,
Chiesa Santa
Maria; descent
into Novara di
Sicilia
KEY TO
RESTAURANT PRICES
(full meal per person,
not including wine)
Up to 25
O
O
26-50
O
O
O
50 +
O
overwhelmingly gloomy.
WHERE TO EAT
CASTIGLIONE DI SICILIA
Piazza Antonio
NEAR RANDAZZO
Etna Quota Mille Restaurant
Etna Quota Mille, Contrada da Marzarola
O
www.etnaquotamille.it
info@etnaquotamille.it
+39 095 518 7293
Mob +39 328 428 3799
Agriturismo with a great local reputation
for food. Views of Etna and Randazzo.
Accommodation in a traditional farmhouse.
Plus swimming pool.
WHERE TO STAY
CASTIGLIONE DI SICILIA
Hotel Federico II
Via Maggiore. Baracca 2
Castiglione di Sicilia
www.hotelfedericosecondo.com
info@hotelfedericosecondo.com
+ 39 094 298 0368
Nine well-equipped rooms in a medieval
building right in the heart of the old town.
SANTALFIO
Agriturismo Case Perrotta
Via Andronica 2, SantAlo
www.caseperrotta.it
casaperotta@casaperotta.it
+39 095 968928
Accommodation and popular food in
traditional farmhouse with views of the
coast and Etna. Sicilian home-cooking.
Cherries and wine produced on the farm.
NEAR RANDAZZO
Hotel Feudo Vagliasindi, Contrada Feudo S.
Anastasia Strada provinciale 89
Randazzo
+39 095 799 1823 / +39 338 835
7266 / +39 392 554 1470
www.feudovagliasindi.it
info@feudovagliasindi.it
Accommodation and food in a grand villa
on an estate producing premier wine and
olives amongst vineyards facing Etna.
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
As you begin your descent to the town you can see across to the opposite coast and to the
volcanic Aeolian Islands in the Tyrrhenian Sea
Nearby Bronte specialises in
pistachios. Like the local vines, the
small grey pistachio trees are kept
low, their twisted branches hanging
down to the soil around them. Some
90 per cent of the pistachios used in
Italy are grown here, with a festival
during the rst ten days of October.
Situated 2,500 feet up Etnas ank,
Bronte has been devastated by
eruptions three times so far, but each
time it has been rebuilt. It remains
hemmed in by lava ows.
Today it is an unassuming little
town full of exceptionally steep oneway streets. The Duchy of Bronte
was gifted to Admiral Nelson in
1799 by King Ferdinand IV, who
was rescued from Naples on Nelsons
agship ahead of the Napoleonic
invasion. It remained in Nelsons
family until 1981, when it was sold
to Bronte town council. Apparently
Nelson never visited Bronte but
he had a great admirer in Patrick
Bunty, a Yorkshire pastor, formerly
from Ulster, who, in honour of his
heros success, changed his name to
Bront and whose daughters went
on to become the celebrated authors
Charlotte, Emily and Anne.
The volcanic slopes between
Radazzo and Bronte are dotted with
black lava-stone farm houses,
Clockwise from
left: Novara di
Sicilia; Castiglione
di Sicilia
Rocca Leone;
Lemon Riviera;
Castiglione di
Sicilia; Lava ows
and Etna
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Pasta will teach you everything
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different types of pasta and how
to cook it, including step-by-step
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PA S T I TA L I A !
SANTA MARIA,
TRASTEVERE
This ceiling detail in Romes Basilica of Our Lady in Trastevere
perhaps the rst church in which Mass was openly celebrated
would appear painted, such is its intricacy, yet it is not
iStock photo
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
The faade of the
Duomo at Ortygia
Syracuse
A city that was once famed and feared throughout the Mediterranean,
Syracuse offers an abundance of archaeological sites to explore.
Gretta Schifano ew down to Comiso to discover them
S
The Roman amphitheatre,
Neapolis Archaeological Park
The market at
Ortygia
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
A hole from a wooden
scaffolding pole
Looking out to
sea from Ortygia
harbour
The Temple of
Apollo, Ortygia
A supporting pillar
at the quarry
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
www.appassionata.com
Enter
Something
Italian
www.something-italian.com
Call us: +44 (0) 1865 682655
code
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I TA L I A ! P R O M O T I O N
Creative
holidays
TUSCAN SECRETS
The y and op holidays
become less appealing, instead
we are now looking for more
mental stimulus.
Italy offers a wide range of
special interest holidays from
language lessons, to cookery,
hiking to music, photography
and painting.
With its picturesque
landscape and unique history,
Italy provides an ideal location
for painting holidays. Italy has
held a long tradition with art,
CONTACT DETAILS
TUSCAN SECRETS
www.tuscansecrets.com
sales@tuscansecrets.com
01344 627586
A Hedonistic
HIKING TOUR IN
Tuscany
Good food and wine, and just enough exercise to counter the effects
What better way to enjoy Tuscany? Sebastian Cresswell-Turner joins
Hedonistic Hiking for a taste of their upmarket walking tours
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Main image: A
downhill walk
towards lunch
Above left to right:
Church at Badia a
Isola; owers at
Villa Bichi Borghesi;
friendly resident;
rural delights
abound; enjoying the
at; lunch at Ristoro
di Lmole; Tuscany
in bloom; use your
boots!
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
stable blocks.
We had left London barely 24
hours before, but already friendships
had formed. This, indeed, is one of
the best aspects of walking holidays,
namely that the shared adventure
brings you together. And now we
had earned our lunch. Two types of
pecorino; Tuscan ham; wild boar
sausages; artichoke hearts in olive
oil; asparagus; unsalted Tuscan
bread; all washed down by wine,
both red and white.
Lunch over, there was time to
relax or dream while Jackie read an
excerpt from A Day in Tuscany, an
account of life in wartime Italy, after
which Valentina Bichi Borghesi,
the wife of the owner of the villa,
showed us round its formal gardens
before she and her husband gave us a
tasting session of their own estatebottled wines. It was then off to look
round La Suvera, a nearby castle,
part-medieval and part-Renaissance,
The Palazzo
Leopoldo Hotel
MORE INFORMATION
PRICES AND BOOKING
Hedonistic Hiking offers a variety of
tours in Italy from about 2,000 for
7-8 days, all costs included except air
fares. For prices and availability go to
www.hedonistichiking.com.
WHAT TO TAKE
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bottle, waterproof top, etc.
q2GNQSR
q'D@CFD@QRTMFK@RRDRRTMBQD@L
P R O P E RT Y F O C U S
500,000-750,000
FARMHOUSE
LE MARCHE
PROPERTY FOCUS
That perfect Mediterranean combination of mountain
and sea is easy to nd in Le Marche, Italys top
up-and-coming region for property investment
KEVIN GIBNEY
WWW.PROPERTYFORSALEMARCHE.COM
50,000-250,000
APARTMENTS
The recently completed Casa Mercatello apartments are to be found in the historical centre of Mercatello
sul Metauro, a 13th century medieval village of some 1,500 people who live life simply, and in an
authentically Italian manner. Steps from the apartments lead to the towns piazza, where you will nd
delis, a supermarket, bars, restaurants and friendly locals. Further aeld, you can explore Le Marches
charming hilltop villages and the rest of Italy from this central base. Overlooking a park and picturesque
valleys, the apartments effortlessly blend the traditional Italian stone structure with modern interiors
and appliances. Own a share in either a set of three exible one-bedroom apartments or one large, twostorey, four-bedroom apartment.
Price 1 months share in every 13 months for 29,500
Contact ciao@casamercatello.com
www.casamercatello.com
50,000-250,000
UNIQUE HOME
A great opportunity to purchase a share in this unique home, adjoining the magnicent
Three Arches in the medieval town of Petritoli. Relax and enjoy ve weeks exclusive
annual ownership in this spacious three bedroom, three bathroom property. Dine al fresco
on the wonderful 50m roof terrace with spectacular views across the rolling hills down
to the sea. Petritoli is a lively, friendly town, with excellent cafs and restaurants within
walking distance it even has its own theatre.
Price 65,000 for 5 weeks annual ownership
(only one share remaining at this special price)
Contact www.appassionata.com
ifh@appassionata.com
+39 331 541 3225
250,000-500,000
250,000-500,000
STONE HOUSE
MEDIEVAL FARMHOUSE
P R O P E RT Y F O C U S
100,000-250,000
CASA LEOPARDI
Have you ever dreamt of owning a luxury villa, set within beautiful grounds, and complete
with a swimming pool, tennis court and vineyard, but you dont want the hassle, cost and
work that goes with whole ownership? Fractional ownership may be the answer you have
been looking for. Casa Leopardi is an exquisitely designed and furnished ve bedroom, ve
bathroom property sitting in ve acres of rolling countryside, and within walking distance
of the medieval town of Monteore dellAso. Owners also have a share in the wine, olive
oil, lavender and trufes produced on the estate.
Price 195,000 for 5 weeks annual ownership (just one share remaining)
Contact www.appassionata.com
ifh@appassionata.com
+39 331 541 3225
250,000-500,000
250,000-500,000
CASA SORPRESA
CASA CERCATA
Just on the market, this is probably the best value on the market today
for a carefully restored, ready-to-enjoy Marche farmhouse. Its big and
spacious: open plan living room, snug, 4-5 bedrooms (most en suite), all
open and airy. There are all the modern conveniences, from underoor
heating to double-glazed windows and broadband access. The at plot
is sun-drenched and there are two outbuildings to restore. Spectacular
views of rolling hills, elds of sunowers and mountains. Plus, within
just 5-10 minutes youre in four lively hilltop towns. All sterling
transactions welcome.
Price 399,000 Contact Property for Sale Marche
info@propertyforsalemarche.com +39 347 538 6668
New to the market, this is the house everyone is looking for. Its got
all of the most sought after characteristics buyers look for in a Marche
property rustic restored farmhouse, lots of architectural touches,
original materials throughout, open plan living spaces, a sizeable plot,
great views, a pool, an olive grove, two pergolas, four bedrooms (two en
suite), walking distance to a great town, 30 minutes to the beach, 30
to the mountains. All this at a down-to-earth price of just 499,000. All
sterling transaction welcome.
Price 499,000
Contact Property for Sale Marche
info@propertyforsalemarche.com +39 347 538 6668
Magic Marche
We are at your side from your first viewing, until the keys are in your hand.
www.magicmarche.com
Restored
299.000 (247,000)
Code: 571
+ 39.347.5386668
P.IVA 01534470438
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Spiaggia Giamaica
Wild Swimming
Where better than Italy to enjoy swimming in the pure clean
water? Michele Tameni highlights the best spots, including
these recommendations for the waters of Lake Garda
The swim at Giamaica has smooth rock slabs, and further round you will find
Spiaggia della
Rocca di Manerba
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
8
BOGLIACO 4
A narrow shingle beach with an impressive
hidden entrance. Beautiful hotel terrace.
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LE FONTANELLE, GARGNANO 5
Le Fontanelle is a supervised lido beach
with free access in the middle of an olive
grove with lawns and benches. The beach
is pebbly, but the view from the park is
particularly pleasant.
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LA PIAZZETTA, GARGNANO 5B
A picturesque beach in the historic centre
of the village, overlooking a small square.
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PORTO DI TIGNALE 6B
A narrow beach slightly hidden and
therefore usually not too crowded. Walk a
little way along the shore south to nd a
fun tree to dive from.
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Bogliaco
Gargnano
D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
Porto di Tignale
Visit the village of Limone and swim within sight of this picturesque town or relax
Punta San Vigilio
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LAGO DI TOBLINO 8
About 15 minutes north of Garda this lake
is enchanting. Surrounded by reeds and
hills there is also a fairy tale castle that
rises from the mists.
From Riva del Garda continue for about
20km on the SS45bis heading to Trento,
until you reach the lake. Pass the castle and
park at the next turn.
FA S T FA S H I O N
Salvatore Ferragamo
small village called Bonito in the Campania region in Southern Italy and was
the eleventh of fourteen children. He made his rst pair of shoes for his sister at
nine years old, for her to wear to communion. At eleven he was apprenticed to
a shoemaker in Naples and later opened a small shop in his parents house.
At fourteen he went to America, following two of his brothers who were in
Boston working in a cowboy boot making factory. He convinced them to go to
California and they opened a shop in Hollywood doing shoe repairs and later
making custom made shoes. Thirteen years later, in 1927, Salvatore returned
to Italy having made his name among the stars and the rich and famous. His
shoes were renowned for creativity in design and innovation, but he was always
interested in the engineering of the shoe for comfort, to the point of enrolling
in anatomy classes at the university of California. One of his inventions was the
steel arch lifting the weight from the ball of the foot to the arch.
He chose Florence as his home due to the long standing excellence in
leather craftsmanship in the city. During the war years, due to the lack of
leather and steel, he used cork and rafa and hemp. He invented the wedge
heel in the 1930s for greater comfort
and increased elegance. His clientele
included Greta Garbo, Audrey
Hepburn and Ingrid Bergman, to
name a few. In 1936 he rented two
shops on the ground oor of the
Palazzo Spini Feroni; two years later
he bought the whole building.
Wanda, his wife, was 20 years
younger than Salvatore. She too
was from Campania and was a great
partner and support to him when
he was alive and a born matriarch
for the family and company after his
death. Their eldest daughter, Fiamma
Above: Ferragamo boutique
Here: creativity in design
(1941-1998), followed in her fathers
creative footsteps and designed the
ABOUT THE WRITER
Vara grossgrain ribbon at shoe in
FREYA MIDDLETON is a private tour guide and writer who lives in Florence, Tuscany.
1978, which is an icon in the Ferragamo You can read her blog online or learn more about her tours at www.freyasorence.com
!
history and a staple in the stores today. Q
70 ITALIA! July 2014
His shoes were renowned for creativity in design and innovation, but
he was always interested in the engineering of the shoe for comfort
SPECIAL PLACES
TO STAY IN ITALY
Alastair Sawday selects six Italian homestays, B&Bs where
you really feel part of the family, from his new book,
Sawdays Special Places to Stay: Italy on sale now
MASSERIA
SERRALTA
OTHER INFORMATION
PRICE From 90 per night
WEBSITE
www.masseria-serralta.it
ADDRESS SC 86,
Contrada Serralta 39,
70010 Locorotondo, Bari
OTHER INFORMATION
PRICE From 120 per night
WEBSITE www.villaannamaria.com
ADDRESS SS dellAbetone 146,
56010 Molina di Quosa, Pisa
LA TRAVERSINA AGRITURISMO
OTHER INFORMATION
PRICE From 95 per night
WEBSITE www.latraversina.com
ADDRESS Cascina La Traversina
109, 15060 Stazzano, Alessandria
OTHER INFORMATION
PRICE From 120 per night
WEBSITE
www.lemonsguesthouse.com
AGRITURISMO DELO
OTHER INFORMATION
WEBSITE
www.agriturismodelo.it
ADDRESS SC 86,
Via del Torresin, Novaglie,
37141 Verona
ANTICA OLIVAIA
OTHER INFORMATION
PRICE From 110 per night
WEBSITE www.anticaolivaia.com
ADDRESS Localit San Bartolomeo
17, 05018 Orvieto, Terni
4 TA K E S O N C O F F E E
takes on
4COFFEE
iStock photo
Weve got some great coffee-based recipes for you this month all luxurious, and yet oh so
simple to make. Try these, then visit www.seriousaboutcoffee.com/recipes to nd more, and
learn how to make the perfect biscotti and desserts to complement your creations
4 TA K E S O N C O F F E E
2
Superfoodie Iced Coffee
Caff superfood con ghiaccio
SERVES 1
Preparation
15 minutes
1 shot of espresso
240ml ice cold milk
(you could use almond milk to make this dairy free)
to 1 tbsp smooth peanut butter
tsp agave syrup or 1 tsp sugar syrup
coarse sea salt, to taste
Blitz everything together in a blender and strain to serve
in a tall or hurricane glass. Can be served over cubed ice.
Garnish with a sprinkling of coarse sea salt.
4
Decadent Iced Coffee
Decadente caff con ghiaccio
SERVES 1
Preparation
5 minutes
1 shot of espresso
30ml cherry vodka (we use Davna Czeri, a Polish
cherry vodka, but you could also use Cherry Heering or
Adnams cherry liqueur)
20ml Kahlua
Shake all ingredients hard over cubed ice. Strain into a
coupe or martini glass.
CHEF'S NOTES
2 onions, sliced
2 garlic cloves, sliced
125ml white wine
400ml chicken stock
400g tin chopped tomatoes
2 tbsp Bomba! XXX tomato pure,
or another tomato pure
2-3 sprigs thyme
2-3 sprigs rosemary
1 bay leaf
the juice and zest of 1 lemon
salt and freshly ground pepper
175g orzo pasta
250g kalamata olives
1 tsp honey (optional)
Leg-over Lamb
Cosciotto di agnello
SERVES 4-6
PREPARATION 15 minutes
COOKING 6 hours
2kg leg of lamb
4 garlic cloves, each cut into 3
3 anchovies (optional), each cut into 4 pieces
2 sprigs of rosemary, cut into 2.5cm lengths
3 tbsp olive oil
salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper
4 red onions, cut into quarters
350ml red wine
125ml port (if you dont have any, increase the wine to 475ml)
1-2 tbsp herb or berry jelly (mint, rosemary, redcurrant, sage)
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar (thick type)
1 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary
1 tbsp chopped fresh sage
1 tbsp chopped fresh mint
Preheat the oven to 120C/Gas Mark . Make slits in the lamb and
stuff each hole with a piece of garlic, a piece of anchovy, if using,
and some rosemary, using your nger to push them right in.
Heat the olive oil in a large casserole, add the lamb and brown it
well on all sides. Season with salt and pepper, and add the onions,
red wine and port, if using. Mix the herb jelly, balsamic vinegar
and fresh herbs together, and spoon over the lamb. Cover with a
tight-tting lid and cook for around 5-6 hours, until the meat is
falling off the bone.
E AT I TA L I A !
Pronto!
From Pronto! by Gino DAcampo, photography by Matt Russell, published by Kyle Books, 19.99 (hardback)
Fresh lobster
with chilli, garlic
and olive oil
Aragosta aglio, olio
e peperoncino
This recipe is a bit more
extravagant, not in terms of
preparation but in terms of cost.
There arent many ingredients here
as I want to keep things quick
and simple and not take attention
away from the lobster that has
to be the star of the show.
SERVES 4
PREPARATION 20 minutes
COOKING 1 minute
2 large whole live lobsters
(approximately 1.5kg each)
the juice of 2 lemons
8 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
tsp dried chilli flakes
salt, to taste
Fill a very large pot with boiling water from
the kettle. Add 1 tbsp salt and bring to the
boil. Plunge the live lobsters into the boiling
water and cook for 10 minutes exactly.
Meanwhile, prepare a very large bowl of cold
water, adding in a few ice cubes if necessary.
Remove the lobsters from the boiling water
and drop immediately into the cold water for
3 minutes. Remove and drain.
Preheat the grill to the highest setting.
Place the lobsters on their backs on a large
chopping board and, holding them steady with
your free hand, use a large, heavy knife to cut
from the top of the head straight down to the
end of the tail. Turn them over and use the
same technique to cut through the shell on
the back. By now you should have each lobster
separated in two halves.
Twist the claws away from the body and use
a large knife to cut the shells by holding the
knife in place and banging the top of it down
with the other hand. Pick out the esh and
place on top of the lobster halves.
Squeeze the lemon juice all over the esh and
drizzle over the oil. Spread the crushed garlic
over the lobster esh and sprinkle over the
chilli akes. Season with salt.
Place the prepared halves, esh-side up, under
the hot grill for 1 minute. Dont overcook
the lobster otherwise it will be chewy. Serve
immediately accompanied with a fresh salad.
E AT I TA L I A !
Pork chops
with sage and
cannellini beans
Maiale burro e salvia
Italians love to cook with canned
beans and will always have a good
stock of them in their cupboards.
They are so versatile and there
is no need for long soaking and
cooking; its all done for you.
White cannellini beans are a
staple: their mealy texture and
nutty avour is great with pork.
SERVES 4
PREPARATION 10 minutes
COOKING 15 minutes
4 tbsp olive oil
4 x 200-250g pork loin chops
4 sprigs of thyme
2 garlic cloves, peeled
2 x 400g cans of cannellini beans,
drained
50ml white wine
1 tsp vegetable stock powder
100ml water
100ml double cream
50g unsalted butter
16 small sage leaves
salt and white pepper, to taste
Heat half the olive oil in a large frying pan
and cook the chops with the thyme for
4 minutes on each side.
Meanwhile, pour the remaining oil into a
medium frying pan. Grate in the garlic and add
the beans. Stir and cook for 2 minutes. Pour
the wine over the beans and cook for a further
2 minutes. Stir occasionally.
Sprinkle the stock powder over the beans, pour
in the water and gently cook for 1 minute.
Pour in the cream and continue to simmer for
3 minutes.
Meanwhile, transfer the pork chops to a plate.
Season with salt and pepper, cover with foil
and set aside.
Melt the butter in the pan used to cook the
chops. Add 12 of the sage leaves and fry for
1 minute until crisp. Set aside.
Shred the remaining sage leaves and stir into
the beans. Season well with salt and pepper
and divide between 4 serving plates.
Place the pork chops on top of the beans and
drizzle over the sage butter. Top with the
crispy sage leaves.
INFORMATION
B U Y I TA L I A !
DRIED PASTA
There are more varieties of dried pasta available than there
are days of the year So what weve tried to do this month
is provide something for everybody
LIA! E
TO
DI R
S CHO
JULY
2014
IT
ICE A
TENUTA MARMORELLE
PACCHERI
1 CARLUCCIOS
GARGANELLI
PRIMAVERA
2 RUMMO ORGANIC
WHOLE WHEAT
FUSILLI NO. 48
From Carluccios
www.carluccios.com
Price 3.95/500g
From Ocado
www.ocado.com
Price 1.85/500g
VERDICT +++++
VERDICT +++++
VERDICT +++
An ne contribution to
our table from the online
supermarket.
4
6
3 SUMA ITALIAN
ORGANIC WHITE
MACARONI
From Suma
www.suma.coop
Price around 1/500g
Italian organic pasta made
by Iris Bio in Lombardy, a
workers cooperative since
1978. The pasta is produced
just 10km from the farm
where the wheat is grown,
using bronze dies (pasta
shaping tools) which help
to create a texture that
holds a sauce better than
conventional methods. Add to
hearty winter soups or light
summer salads.
4 SAINSBURYS
TASTE THE
DIFFERENCE
MILLERIGHE
From Sainsburys
www.sainsburys.co.uk
Price 1.25/500g
Millerighe can translate as
a thousand lines and this
is the difference between
this pasta and the paccheri:
it has lots of little lines. We
tried this one with an nduja
based sauce too in fact,
this was the prototype for
the recipe we now believe we
have perfected! Being lined,
though, means it will take a
lighter sauce too.
6 DOVES FARM
5 GERARDO DI NOLA
GLUTEN-FREE
PASTA RANGE
ORGANIC PASTA
From Something Italian
www.something-italian.com
Price 3.50/500g each
The Gerardo di Nola range is
now available via Something
Italian. Buy individually or
take the whole hamper
containing one paccheri, one
half paccheri, two spaghetti,
two linguine (all 500g), and
three 400g tins of tomato
llets, for 39.50. We tried
the mezzi paccheri with
a jar of Seggiano tomato
pasta sauce from the same
supplier. Quick, simple and
very tasty.
VERDICT ++++
VERDICT +++
VERDICT +++++
VERDICT ++++
QUESTIONS
& ANSWERS
Our experts are here to help with all your questions about Italy.
Email your questions to italia@anthem-publishing.com, or write to us
at our usual address, as given on page 6
LONG TERM RENTS
BUYING IN VENICE
THIS MONTHS
EXPERTS
Buying in Venice
ITALIA!
legal
expert
LETTING
OUT RENTAL
ACCOMMODATION
iStock Photo
offee
Corner
NESPRESSO
PODS
NEXT MONTH IN
ITALIA!
AMALFI VIEWS
PICNIC TIME
Mario shares recipes
for the ultimate
Italian hamper
Subscribe & save money! Turn to page 44 to ensure you never miss an issue!
iStock photo
D R I N K I TA L I A !
ISLAND
WHITES
Match the sunny weather with wines grown on Italys
southern islands. Hannah Bellis investigates the
under-appreciated wines of Sicily and Sardinia
REGALEALI BIANCO
SICILIA 2013
AVITO GRILLO
2012
CALA SILENTE
VERMENTINO DI
SARDEGNA 2013
From Great Western Wine
www.greatwesternwine.co.uk
Price 13.95
Ive enjoyed this in the 2012
vintage and the 2013 is even
better. Its a lovely golden
green in the glass, with
aromas of stone fruit and
even a little tropical lychee
and lime. It is more subtly
fruit on the palate, which
stops the tropical notes from
overpowering. Instead you
get sweet lemon with hints
of almond and pine nut, with
tropical fruits coming in the
nish. A very enjoyable and
balanced white, but perhaps
a tad expensive unless you
buy a case so do that!
ERUZIONE 1614
CARRICANTE 2012
From Great Western Wine
www.greatwesternwine.co.uk
Price 18.50
Carricante is grown around
Mount Etna, and tasting this
I wish it was more prevalent.
On the nose there is less fruit
than in others here, just a
little green apple with lime
and a hint of honey. The
palate is unusual too, with
a non-salty minerality that
comes from the complexity of
volcanic soil. There are also
herbal complexities that the
strong sun usually knocks out
of Sicilian wines rosemary
and mint that linger with
the minerality. A very stylish
wine, that could develop even
further if you want to keep it.
GREAT WITH
GREAT WITH
GREAT WITH
GREAT WITH
D R I N K I TA L I A !
V
SCO E
H DI
NT
JULY
2014
MO
HE
VERMENTINO DI
SARDEGNA 2012
OF T
RY
POLENA
DONNAFUGATA
2013
GREAT WITH
GREAT WITH
iStock photo
Wine labels in both Sardinia and Sicily are almost entirely made up of
cooperatives, due to land distribution systems of the past. Cooperatives used to
sell their produce to be used as cheap blending wines for noble French varieties.
Vines were selected for yield not avour, and it was only when the market
started to collapse when France found new cheaper sources for blending wine in
the 1980s that the focus began to shift to expressing their native vines in their
own right, and a growing expertise in viniculture has been developing. Thirty
years later we are starting to see some exciting wines, but they are still pretty
unknown, which means that prices are competitive. Explore these regional wines
and you can nd some great bargains!
BOOK REVIEWS
IN PRINT
In this months selection of books we nd some special places to stay
in Italy, some out of the way places to swim, and a phrase book like no
other to help you nd your way around
WILD SWIMMING: ITALY
KS...BOOKS...BOOKS...BOOKS...BOOKS...BOOKS...BOOKS...BOOKS..
JUDGES
OLIVE ODYSSEY
.
ALASTAIR SAWDAYS SPECIAL
PLACES TO STAY IN ITALY
Alastair Sawday, 15.99 (paperback)
Throughout Alastair Sawdays portfolio
of properties to stay in Italy, not
one has been included that he hasnt
personally inspected and stayed in
himself, giving you only the best
places to choose from. With budgets
to suit every person, this fantastic
guide will guarantee you nd that
special somewhere to call home, even
if only for a few nights.
GETTING THERE
ORIGIN
OPERATOR
DESTINATION
ORIGIN
OPERATOR
O Alghero
Dublin
LDN Gatwick
LDN Luton
LDN Stansted
LDN Stansted
Dublin
LDN Gatwick
LDN Stansted
Birmingham
Bristol
Cork
Dublin
East Midlands
Knock Ireland West
Leeds Bradford
LDN Stansted
Manchester
Bristol
Dublin
Edinburgh
LDN Gatwick
LDN Heathrow
LDN Stansted
Manchester
LDN Stansted
LDN Gatwick
LDN Stansted
Birmingham
Dublin
LDN Gatwick
Ryanair
Thomson
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
BA, easyJet
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Aer Lingus, Ryanair
Ryanair
easyJet
BA
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Meridiana, Ryanair
easyJet
Thomson
Aer Lingus
AirOne BA, easyJet,
Thomson, Norwegian
easyJet
easyJet, Thomson
Ryanair
Ryanair
Flybe
Vueling
BA, CityJet
BA
Ryanair
Ryanair
BA, Flybe
Aer Lingus
easyJet
O
LDN City
LDN Gatwick
LDN Heathrow
LDN Luton
Manchester
Birmingham
Bristol
Dublin
East Midlands
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Liverpool
LDN Gatwick
2 Ancona
O
3 Bari
O
4 Bergamo
O
5 Bologna
O
6 Brindisi
O
7 Cagliari
O
8 Catania
O
9 Comiso
O
10 Florence
O
11
O
Genoa
12
O
13
O
Lamezia
Milan
LDN Luton
Manchester
Dublin
LDN Stansted
Birmingham
LDN Gatwick
LDN City
LDN Gatwick
LDN Stansted
LDN Stansted
Birmingham
Dublin
Edinburgh
13
Milan (continued)
14 Naples
O
15 Olbia
O
16 Palermo
O
17 Parma
O
18 Perugia
O
19 Pescara
O
20 Pisa
O
LDN Luton
LDN Stansted
Manchester
Newcastle
Bristol
Leeds Bradford
LDN Gatwick
LDN Luton
Dublin
LDN Gatwick
LDN Stansted
LDN Stansted
LDN Stansted
LDN Stansted
Belfast
Bournemouth
Bristol
Cork
Dublin
East Midlands
Edinburgh
Glasgow Prestwick
Leeds Bradford
Liverpool
LDN Gatwick
LDN Heathrow
LDN Luton
LDN Stansted
Manchester
Newcastle
Every effort is made to ensure that the above information about ights between the UK, Ireland and Italy is correct at the time of going to press, but do check before you plan your trip
13
O
O
24
4
O
26
O
17
O
11
O
25
O
23
O
5
O
10
20 O
O
2
O
O
18
.1(&(-
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21 1NLD
O
Birmingham
Bristol
Dublin
East Midlands
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Glasgow Prestwick
Leeds Bradford
Monarch
easyJet
Aer Lingus, Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Jet2
Ryanair
Jet2
LDN City
LDN Gatwick
LDN Heathrow
LDN Luton
LDN Stansted
Manchester
Newcastle
Manchester
Birmingham
LDN Stansted
Dublin
LDN Gatwick
LDN Stansted
Birmingham
Bristol
Dublin
East Midlands
Edinburgh
Leeds Bradford
LDN City
LDN Gatwick
Alitalia
BA, easyJet, Norwegian
BA, Alitalia
Monarch
Ryanair
Jet2, Ryanair
Jet2
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
BA, easyJet
Ryanair
Monarch
Ryanair
Aer Lingus, Ryanair
Ryanair
Jet2
Jet2, Ryanair
BA
BA, easyJet, Monarch,
Thomson
BA
easyJet
easyJet
Ryanair
easyJet, Jet2, Monarch,
Thomson
Jet2
Aer Lingus
Jet2
Jet2
BA, easyJet, Monarch
Monarch
Flybe
22
O
23
O
24
O
25
O
3Q@O@MH
3QHDRSD
3TQHM
5DMHBD3QDUHRN
LDN Heathrow
LDN Luton
LDN Southend
LDN Stansted
Manchester
26
O
5DQNM@
Newcastle
Dublin
Edinburgh
Leeds Bradford
LDN Gatwick
Manchester
Southampton
19
O
21
O
15
O
1
O
3
O
14
O
6
O
7
O
12
O
O
22
O
16
8
O
9
O
AIRLINES
q DQ+HMFTRVVV
@DQKHMFTR
BNL
0870 876 5000
q HQ.MDVVV
kX@HQNMD
BNL
+39 091 255 1047
q KHS@KH@VVV
@KHS@KH@
BNL
0870 225 5000
qALHA@AXVVV
ALHA@AX
BNL
0905 828 2828
q!QHSHRG HQV@XRVVV
A@
BNL
0844 493 0787
q"HSX)DSVVV
BHSXIDS
BNL
0871 666 5050
qD@RX)DSVVV
D@RXIDS
BN
TJ
0905 821 0905
q%KXADVVV
kXAD
BNL
0871 700 2000
q)DSVVV
IDS
BNL
0871 226 1737
q+TESG@MR@VVV
KTESG@MR@
BNL
0871 945 9747
q,NM@QBG HQKHMDR
VVV
LNM@QBG
BN
TJ
0871 940 5040
q,DQHCH@M@ HQKHMDR
VVV
LDQHCH@M@
HS
0871 222 9319
q-NQVDFH@M HQKHMDR
VVV
MNQVDFH@M
BNL
0843 378 0888
q1X@M@HQVVV
QX@M@HQ
BNL
0871 246 0000
q3GNLRNM HQKHMDR
VVV
SGNLRNMkX
BNL
0871 231 4787
q5TDKHMFVVV
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0906 754 7541
(1/.132
q!DKE@RS028 9448 4848
q!HQLHMFG@L0844 576 6000
q!NTQMDLNTSG01202 364000
q!QHRSNK0871 334 4444
q"NQJ+353 21 431 3131
q#TAKHM+353 1 814 1111
q$@RS,HCK@MCR0871 919 9000
q$CHMATQFG0844 481 8989
q&K@RFNV0844 481 5555
q&K@RFNV/QDRSVHBJ0871 223 0700
q*MNBJ+353 94 936 8100
q+DDCR!Q@CENQC0871 288 2288
q+HUDQONNK0871 521 8484
q+#-"HSX020 7646 0088
q+#-&@SVHBJ0844 335 1802
q+#-'D@SGQNV0844 335 1801
q+#-+TSNM01582 405100
q+#-2NTSGDMC01702 538500
q+#-2S@MRSDC0844 335 1803
q,@MBGDRSDQ0871 271 0711
q-DVB@RSKD0871 882 1121
q2NTSG@LOSNM0844 481 7777
Always check with your airline
before planning your ight.
Some of these operators may charge a premium rate for phone bookings. Check before you call.
H2SNBJOGNSN
#$23(- 3(.-
MARKETPLACE
MARKETPLACE
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PROPERTY
MARKETPLACE
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SERVICES
Properties in
Properties
& holidays
in Le Marche
www.propertiesinitaly.net
www.reyitaly.co.uk
FOR SALE
Gravedona
New residence with swimming pool.
Only 400 metres from lake, 1-2 bedrooms.
Sunny private garden and terrace.
Great investment.
PRICE 160,000.00
Immobiliare Porticciolo Domaso
info@immobiliareporticciolo.com
44(0)7837509292 / 0039 320 691 5809
Dulux
Weathershield
white masonry
paint available
in Italy
Firefly
De Benetti & Co.
www.debenettilaw.com
weathershieldtoyou@gmail.com
email: info@debenettilaw.com
Or find me on eBay
gardens
&
pools
Garden and Swimming Pool
Design, Construction and
Maintenance in Le Marche
and Umbria
Please contact us for a no obligation site visit
8m x 4m
reinforced
concrete ,
lined
pool from
:
22,000
+ IVA.
info@casapuglia.com
0039 0831 854601
English speaking agency based in Fasano
MARKETPLACE
MARKETPLACE
www.seriousaboutcoffee.com
MARKETPPLACE
MARKETPLACE
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MARKETPPLACE
MARKETPLACE
REMOVALS
REMOVALS TO ITALY
www.hedonistichiking.com
Tel (UK): 01858 565 148
To advertise
please contact Laura on
01225 489989
MARKETPLACE
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HOLIDAYS
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KROLGD\KHUHZLWKIULHQGO\DGYLFHZHOOQHVVOLEUDU\VXQWHUUDFHDQG
ZKLUOSRROEDWKZDONVZLQHFHOODUDQGDSHULWLYRWLPH
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My Italia!
Its an eclectic sort of grouping. I wanted to keep hold of what I did with Johnny
and still have that classical crossover. Ive also included some bigger pop ballads.
HAS GOING SOLO ENABLED YOU TO PUT YOUR OWN STAMP ON THIS ALBUM?
I went to Italy every year on holiday until I was 14 and after that Ive been
more or less most years but not so much recently because of work. But it was
nice that when I nished Britains Got Talent, me and Johnny got to lm a
documentary in Italy and I went to places that I havent been to before. But I did
go on holiday there with my family last year in the summer, which was the rst
family holiday Ive had since the show nished. My favourite areas are Rimini,
because its where my family have always gone on holidays, and Milan.
OUR READERS ARE OBVIOUSLY BIG FANS OF ITALY. WHAT IS IT ABOUT ITALY
THAT APPEALS TO YOU AND WHY DO YOU THINK PEOPLE LIKE IT SO MUCH?
You can go somewhere and you always guarantee youre going to bump into a
nice person. Its a good atmosphere wherever you go and its very open, so you
can always have a friendly conversation, which I dont think you get in England
because its very populated and there are so many different people. But Italy has
a relaxed environment and I love it. Plus, you can always guarantee great food!
DO YOU HAVE ANY PLANS TO VISIT ITALY IN THE NEAR FUTURE?
I have no plans yet but I would love to go back to Italy later this year,
hopefully for a holiday later in the summer.
Charlottes debut solo album Solitaire is released on 9 June 2014
through Sony Classical
98 ITALIA! July 2014
WHATS
YOUR
STORY?
If you want to
tell the story
of your
relationship
with Italy
whatever it
is get in
touch with us!
Send emails to
italia@anthempublishing.
com with the
subject line My
Italia and a brief
description of
your story.
Since becoming
runner-up on
Britains Got Talent
in series 6, Charlotte
has been busy, and
has now gone solo,
with her rst album
coming out in June
RO M AN TI K
WELLNESSSPA
2014
ROMANTIK
2014
www.romantikhotels.com