Professional Documents
Culture Documents
217
Los Cabos
Los Cabos, the unrestrained big shot of Baja California, is three distinct personalities rolled
into one. San Jos del Cabo is a traditional yet refined Mexican town with a central plaza,
historic adobe buildings, a municipal market and narrow streets to remind you that, yes
indeed, this is Mexico. While San Jos clings however precariously to its Mexican past,
Cabo San Lucas is bent more upon partying and its fashionable good looks than maintaining
any sort of tradition or, for that matter, sensible plans for the future. Linking the two towns
is Los Cabos Corridor, an 29km (18-mile) stretch of beautiful beaches, golf courses, sandy
coves and Bajas most expensive resorts.
Where you stay depends on your budget and what youre here to do (see p219) for some
advice on where to shack up). Because the region is fairly compact and public transportation
is good, staying in Cabo San Lucas, say, and visiting San Jos by day is easy. A successful visit
therefore comes down to making the most of all there is to offer. That means spending at
least one night whooping it up in Cabo San Lucas; dropping at least one load of cash in one
of San Joss gourmet restaurants; and getting out to the beaches for snorkeling, swimming,
sun bathing and at Playa Mdano margaritas in the sun. It also means wandering off the
well-trodden path and experiencing those places that are distinctly Baja: dine at taqueras
(taco stands), drive up to the rancho (tiny rural settlement) of La Candelaria and, when you
take that horseback ride into the hills, grill your guide about everything you can. Youll find
theres a fascinating cultural side, faint as its becoming, to this salty paradise as well.
HIGHLIGHTS
LOS CABOS
Big Game
Sportfishing
Playa Mdano
Cabo San Lucas
Land's End
218 S A N J O S D E L C A B O H i s t o r y
LOS CABOS
HISTORY
Bajas southern tip has been, in succession, a
sleepy haven for indigenous Peric, a sheltered
hideaway for pirates and a string of sedate
fishing communities. The Peric inhabited
the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna to the
north, never settling around the cape proper
because fresh water was scarce there. The
majority of them died soon after the arrival
of Europeans and their deadly diseases.
When Europeans first saw the peninsula
in the 16th century, water shortages made
the southern cape an unappealing place for
permanent settlement but its secluded anchorages offered privateers an ideal base for
raiding Spains Manila galleons.
By the early 17th century, the Spanish had
lost enough gold and silver to prompt the
establishment of a small presidio (military
outpost) at Cabo San Lucas. Around 1730,
the Jesuits established Misin San Jos del
Cabo, which became a more permanent settlement. The presidio deterred the pirates and,
eventually, both encampments became villages whose inhabitants relied on fishing and
fish-canning for their livelihood. During the
MexicanAmerican War, US troops occupied
the area, as did the eccentric William Walkers
forces a few years later (see also p195).
After WWII, US private pilots brought tales
of the areas big game fish and magnificent
beaches to listeners north of the border. As
more North Americans arrived, upscale hotels
and restaurants sprouted, and the federal government built an international airport near
San Jos del Cabo. Cruise ships soon included
Cabo San Lucas on their itineraries, and a ferry
service (since discontinued) began to operate
from the mainland city of Puerto Vallarta.
In recent years, hordes of North American
tourists and retirees have frequented the area,
downtown Cabo San Lucas has lost its village
ambience and a string of multistory luxury
resort hotels not to mention several golf
courses has disfigured the coastline between
Cabo San Lucas and San Jos del Cabo. The
giant development of Puerto Los Cabos has
permanently altered the San Jos estuary, and
the construction of more resorts along the
beach at San Jos has no end in sight.
lonelyplanet.com
Despite the fact that its crawling with tourists, historic little San Jos has charm. Lots
of it. Everyone visiting Cabo San Lucas and
the Corridor visits at least once to get their
slice of real Mexico. The spruced up central plaza draws out families (and musicians)
every evening, the surrounding streets are
lined with restored adobe buildings housing
outstanding art galleries, restaurants have
atmospheric courtyards and the boutique
shopping is fab. In fact, some might say San
Joss a little too perfect. Maybe it is. But, once
youre tired of the polished side, theres plenty
to snap you back to reality: open-air taqueras
with blaring TVs and fridges full of neon-orange Mexican sodas, a municipal market with
cheap family-style food, a funky shopping
strip (for the locals, of course), stereos blasting
from knockoff shoe stores and plenty of locals
going about their daily business. Really, whats
so perfect about San Jos is that it offers a bite
of whatever side of Mxico you want which
definitely isnt the case for the rest of Cabo.
HISTORY
Before the Jesuits arrived, the indigenous
Peric people called the site of present-day
San Jos del Cabo Auit. Fired by the desire to evangelize the Peric and establish a
long-awaited mission at the southern tip of
the cape, the Jesuits appointed Padre Nicols
Tamaral to found Misin San Jos del Cabo
in 1730. But the missions original sight,
4km (2.5 miles) inland, was chosen hastily.
Alkaline soils, poor irrigation and swarms
of mosquitoes forced Tamaral to move the
site to the banks of the San Jos estuary at
Auit, where the present-day town of San
Jos was born.
Tamaral set to converting the Peric, but
the Jesuits prohibition of polygamy and the
decimation of the Peric by European diseases
finally sparked a revolt in 1734. After that San
lonelyplanet.com
S A N J O S D E L C A B O S l e e p i n g i n C a b o 219
SLEEPING IN CABO
With hundreds of hotels spread among two towns and across 32km (20 miles) of dramatically
varied coastline, booking a hotel in Cabo can prove extremely confusing. Where you stay can
have a significant effect on the outcome of your vacation. If youre setting things up yourself,
pay close attention to where your hotel is and consider the following.
Location
Downtown San Jos del Cabo offers Cabos closest version of a traditional Mexican town. Here
you can stay in a family-run or boutique hotel and be walking distance from a plethora of restaurants and shops. Buses run regularly (until 10pm) to the Corridor beaches and to Cabo San Lucas
(for the best nightlife). San Joss beach resorts are spread along the wide Playa de California
(travel agents usually just refer to it as San Jos del Cabo), which is great for sunbathing, but
lousy for swimming, due to the undertow.
The Corridor has Los Cabos most luxurious hotels (theyre all resorts) and many of its most
beautiful beaches. The various locations are almost all splendid, but you have to figure out
transport (taxi or bus) if you want to do anything outside the hotel.
Hotels in central Cabo San Lucas are mostly small places and, like similar hotels in San Jos,
offer a more intimate experience and the convenience of being in the middle of town. In Cabo San
Lucas this means shops, restaurants and countless bars and nightclubs right outside your door.
Cabo San Lucas beach resorts are on Playa Mdano, which, in many ways, offers the best
of everything: great swimming, great sand, fun bars, luxury hotels and easy access to Cabo San
Lucas raging nightlife. Playa Mdano is walking distance from central Cabo San Lucas. Playa
Solmar, on the south side of Cabo San Lucas, has a few luxurious resorts overlooking the ocean;
the beach is wide, but because it faces the Pacific, its dangerous for swimming.
Hotel Type
LOS CABOS
Independent travelers who enjoy chatting with hotel owners and staff usually opt for the small
hotels of downtown San Jos or Cabo San Lucas. If you just want a relaxed, pamper-me-I-deserve-it
experience, you have to decide between all-inclusive (meaning all meals, snacks, booze and
entertainment are included) or the so-called European plan (room only). For a list of the 10 or
so all-inclusive hotels in Los Cabos, check out www.allinclusivescabo.com, if only to get an idea
of what there is to choose from.
All-inclusives are great for families but the food is generally just mediocre. If youre opting
for an all-inclusive, try to find out if there are poolside activities classic-rock aerobics and
trivia contests are red flags if you want peace and quiet. Resorts reviewed in this chapter are
all-inclusive only when noted.
220 S A N J O S D E L C A B O
lonelyplanet.com
D
22
18
Margarita de Jurez
Benito Jurez
Prolongacin 5 de Mayo
MEX
34
D6
E1
E1
D1
F6
E6
D1
E1
F5
E5
C6
E2
lez
60
61
onz
lerio G
45
32
Va
9
Plaza San
Jos
siones
Paseo de los Mi
EATING
Baan Thai.....................................31 D1
D' Pancake House........................32 C3
Damiana.......................................33 E1
El Chimichurri...............................34 D3
El Comal.......................................35 E2
El Mesn del Ahorcado.................36 B1
French Riviera...............................37 F6
Jazmns.......................................38 E6
La Panga Antigua.........................39 F6
Mercado Municipal......................40 D2
Morgans Encore..........................41 E6
Super Pollo...................................42 B2
Taquera El Fogn........................43 C2
Taquera Erica..............................44 C2
Taquera Mxico.......................... 45 D3
Tequila..........................................46 E1
Tropicana Bar & Grill..................(see 30)
63
oF
ini
s
ter
ra
59
se
LOS CABOS
40
Pa
Doblado
44 astro
C
Zaragoza
1
54
43
42
31
Degollado
Banorte
Green
36
Marinos
25
rra
INFORMATION
American Express.........................(see 4)
Banca Serfin...................................1 D1
Bancomer.......................................2 E6
Caf Vainilla.................................(see 9)
Canadian Consulate........................3 E2
Corre Caminos................................4 E3
Cruz Roja........................................5 E2
IMSS Hospital.................................6 E2
Lavandera Eco................................7 E3
Lavandera Laundry Mat.................8 E6
Municipal Tourist Office.................9 C3
Nuiti.............................................10 E3
Police Station................................11 E2
Post Office....................................12 E2
Spider Web..................................13 B6
Trazzo Digital...............................14 E6
Viajes Damiana............................15 E6
Guerrero
MEX
Iba
Mrquez de Len
17
DRINKING
Cactus Jacks.................................47 E2
Los Barriles de Don Malaquias....(see 64)
Shooters........................................48 E1
Tropicana Bar & Grill..................(see 30)
SHOPPING
Antigua Los Cabos.......................49
Arte Diseo Decoracin................50
Copal............................................51
Corsica.........................................52
Doa Pitaya..................................53
Dulcera Delicia............................54
Fruitlandia.....................................55
Old Town Gallery.........................56
Pez Gordo....................................57
Veryka..........................................58
Pase
o Lo
F6
F6
E1
E6
F6
C2
E2
E6
E6
E1
s Ca
bos
62
an
S
seo
Pa
13
29
To Los Cabos
Corridor & Cabo
San Lucas (32km)
Jos
19
Playa del
Nuevo Sol
TRANSPORT
Alamo......................................... 59
Dollar...........................................60
Main Bus Terminal.......................61
Mexicana.....................................62
Thrifty..........................................63
Thrifty..........................................64
C4
C3
C3
C6
C4
E2
S A N J O S D E L C A B O O r i e n t a t i o n 221
lonelyplanet.com
0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
26
21
20
58
33
51
Hidalgo
Obreg
Plaza
Mijares
To La Playita (3km);
Pueblo La Playa (3km);
Puerto Los Cabos (3km);
La Fonda del Mar/
Buzzard's Bar (8km);
Eastern Cape
48
Blvd Jo
Morelos
see inset
46
35
to
s An
30
nio M
6
Coronado
ijares
55
ez
ur
to J
Plaza
Jos
Green
3
i
Ben
ORIENTATION
2
47
64
Hidalgo
Morelos
11
5
12
Arr
oyo
San
10
Jos
seo
Pa
lE
de
ro
ste
INFORMATION
Bookstores
Emergency Services
Cementerio
tor
Re
no
27
Pu
nta
rda
Go
28
Playa de California
Internet Access
41 52
n
Obreg
53
57
56
24
15
14
16
Hidalgo
Morelos
Baha San
Jos del
Cabo
38
49
Plaza
Mijares
Zaragoza
39 50
23
37
LOS CABOS
To Estero San
Jos (100m)
222 S A N J O S D E L C A B O S i g h t s
Internet Resources
service US$3.50)
Lavandera Laundry Mat (Morelos at Obregn; selfservice/full service US$2.80/5; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat)
Laundry
Lavandera Eco (Valerio Gonzlez near Morelos; full
Post
Beaches
Media
For a list of the local English-language publications, see p237.
Medical Services
IMSS hospital (%emergency 142-0180, nonemergency 142-0076; cnr Hidalgo & Coronado)
Money
Telephone
Ladatel public telephones are plentiful everywhere, especially around Plaza Mijares.
LOS CABOS
lonelyplanet.com
Tourist Information
Municipal tourist office (%146-9628; www.loscabos
Travel Agencies
Viajes Damiana (%142-0752, 142-3752; cnr Zaragoza
& Morelos) Widely respected, full-service travel agency.
SIGHTS
ACTIVITIES
Surfing
Fishing
Fishing is not as big a pastime in San Jos as
it is in Cabo San Lucas and on the east cape,
but several operators do offer excursions. One
of the best-known local operators is Gordo
Banks Pangas (%142-1147, in the USA 800-408-1199;
www.gordobanks.com), based in La Playita, which
charges US$200 to US$280 for pangas (outboard fishing skiffs), depending on the size.
Pangas hold up to three people. Cruisers run
US$350 to US$530.
Golf
Formerly the municipal golf course, the
Fonatur-designed Mayan Palace Golf Course
(%142-0905; Paseo San Jos) is a nine-hole, par-35
course. With a green fee of US$70, its the
cheapest in Los Cabos not bad, considering your cart is included. Club rentals cost
US$10. If you want to swing in style, head to
the Corridor courses (p232).
TOURS
SLEEPING
Downtown San Jos has several sophisticated boutique hotels, but its tight on budget
options. The most expensive hotels are the allinclusive luxury resorts down on the beach.
The nearest established campgrounds are in
the Corridor; free camping at La Playita may
be possible. Also see the boxed text, p219.
With its outdoor patio, banana trees, tropical foliage and a palapa-roofed poolside
bar (complete with underwater chairs), its
hard to believe this handsome hotel is right
downtown. Its unpretentiousness and central
location make it an excellent choice. Enter
through its namesake restaurant.
El Encanto Inn (%142-038; www.elencantoinn.com;
Morelos 133; r US$89; as) El Encanto is basically two hotels: the Inn and El Encanto Suites
(suite US$119 to US$240), across the street.
The best rooms are those in the latter and
open onto a flower-festooned garden, replete
with a lovely swimming pool and chaise
lounges. Those at the Inn are large and very
comfy, but open only onto a narrow (though
well tended) courtyard.
Casa Natalia (%142-5100, in the USA 888-277-3814;
www.casanatalia.com; Blvd Mijares 4; s US$198-275, d US$396412; as) European-owned Casa Natalia is
LOS CABOS
S A N J O S D E L C A B O T o u r s 223
224 S A N J O S D E L C A B O E a t i n g
Beach Hotels
San Joss closest beachfront hotels are a 20minute walk from downtown. Because most
are chain resorts, rates fluctuate wildly; prices
quoted here are only intended to give a rough
idea. There are several other hotels on this
strip and more go up each season.
Best Western Hotel Posada Real (%142-0155,
in the USA 800-780-7234; www.posadareal.com.mx, www
.bestwestern.com; Playa de California; r from US$190;
pnais) Good choice if youre looking
LOS CABOS
Elsewhere
La Fonda del Mar/Buzzards Bar (%in the USA 951-
EATING
After the success of pioneering restaurants
such as Tequila, the formula for the San Jos
restaurant was set: fancy flatware, artsy presentation and sky-high prices. Its as if the citys
restaurateurs banded together and decided
that no main course sold within three blocks
of the main plaza should cost under US$18.
Alta cocina (haute cuisine) is big business in
San Jos. Quality, admittedly, is high, and
the atmosphere inside these old Mexican
buildings is undeniably romantic. But choose
carefully, and dont mistake high prices for
equally high quality.
For something more authentic (and easier
on the wallet) hit the more casual eateries
lonelyplanet.com
Elsewhere
For cheap eats, youll have to remove yourself
from the touristy area of downtown and venture west toward the Mercado Municipal, the
highway and the bus terminal. A stroll along
Paseo de los Pescadores, west of the highway,
will turn up some interesting choices.
Mercado Municipal (Municipal Market; cnr Ibarra &
Coronado; mains about US$3; h6am-4pm) The numerous loncheras (lunch stalls) alongside San
Joss municipal market offer simple, inexpensive and good meals. A bowl of menudo (tripe
and hominy stew) or a plate of enchiladas will
set you back only about US$3.
Super Pollo (chicken US$3-5) This local branch
of the Super Pollo chain is the place to go for
roast bird. Its just off of Paseo de los Pescadores, west of the Transpeninsular.
D Pancake House (%130-7611; www.dpancakehouse
.com.mx; Valerio Gonzlez s/n; mains US$4-7; hTue-Sun)
LOS CABOS
S A N J O S D E L C A B O E a t i n g 225
226 S A N J O S D E L C A B O D r i n k i n g & E n t e r t a i n m e n t
than 50 items to choose from (including waffles, egg dishes, fruit, granola and, of course,
pancakes) make it a sure shot. At press time,
the owner was firing up a new dinner feature: a US$9 buffet featuring sushi, salads and
Mexican food.
El Chimichurri (%158-1202; Valerio Gonzlez s/n; 3 empanadas for US$5; hTue-Sun) This small Argentineowned meat importer sells fresh empanadas
(baked turnovers stuffed with meat, cheese
or veggies) at US$5 for three or US$20 for a
dozen. Delivery offered.
Taquera Mxico (Valerio Gonzlez s/n; tacos
US$1.20-1.80, mains US$5-13; h11am-2am) Openair Taquera Mxico has plastic tables and
fabric tablecloths and serves up delicious
tacos, stuffed potatoes and reasonably priced
seafood to a mostly local clientele. The fish
filets (US$12) and whole snapper (US$14) are
particularly good. On Thursday and Sunday,
try the pozole (pork and hominy stew; US$6).
Full bar.
If you head west along Doblado youll
encounter several cheap taqueras, the two
best being Taquera Erica (Doblado near Mxico 1; tacos
US$1-2; h10am-4am) and Taquera El Fogn (Doblado
near Mxico 1; tacos US$1-3; h8am-2am). The latter
serves outstanding tacos al pastor (rotisserie
pork tacos) and several other variations on
lonelyplanet.com
LOS CABOS
Its hard to beat a name like El Mesn del Ahorcado (cnr Paseo de los Pescadores & Paseo de los Marinos;
h6pm-1am Tue-Sun), which means the hanged mans restaurant or, as its called locally in English,
the Hangman. And, indeed, the easiest way to spot the place is by the cowboy effigy dangling by
its neck from the gallows out front. Even harder to beat than the name is the Hangmans food.
This is the one restaurant in San Jos you shouldnt miss. The best part: its cheap.
But why the morbidity? It all started in the town of Tamazula de Gordiano, in the mainland
Mexican state of Jalisco, when owner Sergio Velasco opened up a taquera beneath a giant eucalyptus tree apparently a tree with a history. During the Mexican Revolution, General Gordiano
Guzmn, after whom the town is named, used the tree to string up counterrevolutionaries and
outlaws by their undesired necks. So decades later, even though Sergio Velasco named his taquera
Sergios, everyone who ate there said they were going to eat with the hanged man. And the
name stuck.
In 1996 Velasco moved his family and the restaurant to San Jos and, as at the original, filled
every inch of the patio with junk: ranch paraphernalia, carousel horses, devil heads, license plates,
broken surf boards, dolls, masks, bumpers. His wife and four kids (and a handful of friends) all
help run the place, carefully explaining (in English, if you wish) the menus imaginative tacos and
quesadillas, all stuffed with traditional ingredients you wont easily find around here.
At no more than US$1.80 a pop, choices include quesadillas made with huitlacoche (a black
fungus that grows on corn), flor de calabaza (squash flower) and nopal (cactus paddles). The
tacos are equally imaginative (try the cow tongue in mustard sauce), and every table has 11
varieties of salsa with which to garnish your food. And the Velasco family is so friendly youll
find yourself hanging around all night!
S A N J O S D E L C A B O S h o p p i n g 227
lonelyplanet.com
SHOPPING
Galleries
San Jos is a veritable museum of contemporary painters, and browsing its galleries
whether you intend to buy or not is a
highlight. Most of the best galleries are on
(or just off of) Obregn, between Hidalgo
and Guerrero. Every Thursday evening during
high season, galleries open their doors and
serve wine and snacks during the Thursday Art
Walk (h5-9pm Oct-Jun).
There are loads of other galleries, but dont
miss the following:
Corsica (%146-9177; www.galeriacorsica.com; Obregn
15) Features works by some of Mexicos top artists. This is
one you want to pop into even if youre not buying.
Doa Pitaya (%142-6550; Obregn 8) Sells psychedelic
beaded Huichol handicrafts from the Mexican mainland.
Old Town Gallery (%142-3662; www.oldtowngallery
.net; Obregn 20)
Pez Gordo (%142-5788; www.pezgordogallery.com;
Obregn 19)
LOS CABOS
228 S A N J O S D E L C A B O G e t t i n g A r o u n d
LOS CABOS
Bus
The main bus terminal (%142-1100; Valerio Gonzlez)
is just east of the Transpeninsular. Autotransportes Aguila goes to La Paz (US$17) at least
14 times daily between 6am and 7:30pm; seven
buses travel straight north (via larga or long
route; 3 hours) and the other seven go via
Cabo San Lucas and Todos Santos (via corta
or short route; three hours). The fare to Todos
Santos is US$9 (two hours). There are also
daily buses to Loreto (US$39 to US$43, eight
hours) and Tijuana (US$146, 25 hours).
GETTING AROUND
San Jos is small enough to be pedestrianfriendly; even from the zona hotelera the
walk into town takes only about half an hour.
Outside town, buses, taxis or bicycles may
be necessary.
lonelyplanet.com
Bus
Aguila buses travel from San Jos to Cabo
San Lucas (US$2, 30 minutes), but far more
frequent are the local buses departing from
the Transpeninsular (Mxico 1) just west
of downtown; the price is the same. These
buses will also drop you anywhere along the
Corridor. Buses run down Blvd Mijares to
Playa California (US$0.50). Buses along the
Corridor and to Cabo San Lucas stop running around 10pm; if you plan to go out in
San Lucas for the night, youll have to spring
for a cab.
San Jos del Cabo 142-3656; cnr Blvd Mijares & Benito
Jurez, San Jos del Cabo)
lonelyplanet.com
S A N J O S D E L C A B O A r o u n d S a n J o s d e l C a b o 229
LOS CABOS
Drive east on Benito Jurez, and in 15 minutes youll hit the village of Pueblo La Playa,
also known as La Playita after the villages
beach. There are several good places to stay
(p224), but, thanks to construction at nearby
Puerto Los Cabos, Pueblo La Playa is much
less tranquil than it was in the past.
Pushing for completion in 2007, Puerto
Los Cabos is a massive 800-hectare (2000acre) resort community with a 535-slip
marina, an ecopark, two new 18-hole golf
courses, luxury hotels, condominiums
and several gated subdivisions with deluxe
vacation homes. The development essentially
engulfs the once tiny fishing village of Pueblo La Playa and has transformed the San
Jos estuary and surrounding coastline for
good. Until the entire development has been
completed, construction will detract significantly from the areas allure. There has been
plenty of controversy over the development
because of its environmental impact on the
area and because numerous town residents
were forced to relocate elsewhere.
Leaving Pueblo La Playa, the road turns
inland to skirt the beachfront developments
of Laguna Hills and El Encanto (which both successfully closed an entire stretch of the coastal
road to the public, making it necessary to
drive inland along the current road). Next
to Laguna Hills youll find delicious food,
cold beer and a great atmosphere at friendly
Buzzards Bar (mains US$5-10; h8am-8:30pm Mon-Sat,
9am-2pm Sun). Buzzards is part of La Fonda del
Mar (p224) and makes for a fabulous breakfast stop before heading up along the Eastern
Cape Rd.
230 L O S C A B O S C O R R I D O R S i g h t s & A c t i v i t i e s
LOS CABOS
The 29km (18-mile) stretch of the Transpeninsular between San Jos del Cabo and
Cabo San Lucas is commonly referred to as
The Corridor. This state-of-the-art, divided
four-lane highway parallels the most beautiful
stretch of coast in the Los Cabos area. Its a
visual feast of secluded coves, jutting points,
generous sandy beaches, teeming tidal pools,
rolling desertscapes and drop-dead-gorgeous
ocean views.
Naturally its also the arena for the areas
most aggressive developers, who have snapped
up and divvied up the choicest beachfront
properties to build sprawling resorts and
condo complexes. Practically all of them are
of the sophisticated, extremely expensive variety, intended to appeal to travelers with social
statuses ranging from upscale to filthy rich.
Interspersed between the hotels are worldclass golf courses seven at last count with
more in the planning stages. Most locals seem
to welcome all this expansion, primarily for its
job- and income-creating potential, and many
have migrated from mainland Mexico to work
in the tourist industry this development generates. Meanwhile, old-time travelers lament
the areas loss of charm and natural beauty.
Still, whether you stay on the Corridor or not,
exploring its beaches is one of the highlights
of Los Cabos.
lonelyplanet.com
o Se
co
Playa Solmar
alto
Cabo
Falso
Faro Viejo
(Old Lighthouse)
El S
Cabo
San
Lucas
Lands
End
Playa
Mdano
11
MEX
14
Monuments
Playa Cabo Bello
21
15
Lo
le
Tu
Puente El Tule
El
13
23
19
Sea of Cortez
Playa Bledito
MEX
20
4
9
Punta Palmilla
Playa Palmilla
12
5 km
3 miles
Pueblo
La Playa
La Playita
Puerto
Los Cabos
To Los Cabos
International
Airport (10.5km);
La Paz (192km)
San Jos
See San Jos del Cabo
del Cabo
Map (pp220-1)
16
18 Playa Cabo Real
(El Carrizal)
Playa El Tule
Playa Chileno
17
MEX
19
Salt
MEX
10
s
Tran
24
E
lar
nsu
peni
bu
E1
D2
C4
C4
E2
D3
D2
E2
E1
C4
C4
E2
EATING
7 Seas............................................(see 12)
Pitahayas........................................(see 21)
Sunset da Mona Lisa........................24 C4
Zippers Bar & Grill............................25 F1
SLEEPING
Cabo Surf Hotel................................12
Casa del Mar Hotel & Resort............13
Club Cabo Motel & Camp Resort.....14
Fiesta Americana Grand Los Cabos...15
Hotel Meli Cabo Real......................16
Hotel Twin Dolphin..........................17
Las Ventanas al Paraiso....................18
One & Only Palmilla.........................19
Posada Chabela.................................20
Sheraton Hacienda del Mar..............21
Villa Serena Trailer Park................... 22
Westin Regina Resort Los Cabos.......23
i
lT
C
os
Ca
b
mo
Lo
nco
do
El
Cerro Bla
or
ri
0
0
lonelyplanet.com
LOS CABOS
L O S C A B O S C O R R I D O R 231
232 L O S C A B O S C O R R I D O R S i g h t s & A c t i v i t i e s
LOS CABOS
Surfing
The entire Los Cabos area has great surf, with
several reef and point breaks along the coast.
The added bonus: warm water. The closest surf
to San Jos, and probably the most crowded
break on the peninsula (with good reason), is
Zippers, at Km 28.5 on the Transpeninsular.
Its a reef point break and often loaded with
locals. Nearby Playa Acapulquito (p230) has been
nicknamed Old Mans because its forgiving
wave is great for beginners, long boarders
and apparently old men. Between these
breaks is The Rock. These are all at Playa Costa
Azul (the lengthy beach northeast of Punta
Palmilla) and mostly visible from the highway
lookout just west of San Jos.
There are several other breaks along the
Corridor (p230), including the excellent
right at Playa El Tule (near Km 16.2) and the
powerful left point-break at Monuments, on
the western side of Cabo Bello. The latter is
accessible through the Misiones del Cabo
development at Km 5.5 and is the closest surf
to Cabo San Lucas.
There are a handful of good breaks up the
Eastern Cape Rd (p229) as well. They include
the right point-break at Shipwrecks (Map p188),
between Punta Gorda and Santa Cruz de los
Zacatitos, and the mighty Punta Perfecta (Map
p188), further north. Beyond here, the Sea of
Cortez begins to resemble a lake.
For rentals and repairs, head to Costa Azul
Surf Shop (Map p231; %147-0071; Transpeninsular),
which sits above Zippers, on the inland side
of the highway. Stop here for the latest surf
report and to pick up its free surf-break map.
Surfboards cost US$20 per day. They cost
US$35 per day at the beachfront stand below
the Cabo Surf Hotel (opposite). Nomadas de
Baja (p223) offers full-day surfing lessons for
US$95 per person, gear included, and Baja
Wild (right) offers lessons for US$85/105 per
half-/full day.
Water Sports
The best snorkeling along the Los Cabos Corridor is at Playa Santa Mara. Concessions
at Playa Chileno and Playa Santa Mara run
two-hour snorkeling trips for about US$25,
lonelyplanet.com
Horseback Riding
Cuadra San Francisco (Map p231; %144-0160; www
.loscaboshorses; Transpeninsular Km 19.5) is a full-fledged
equestrian center with excellent horses, equipment, trainers and guides. Theres a big sign
on the highway near Km 19.5. Closer to Cabo
San Lucas, Red Rose Riding Stables (Map p231;
%143-4826; Transpeninsular Km 4) also maintains a
stable of well-treated horses.
Golf
The worldwide popularity of golf has skyrocketed in recent years, so it was only a matter of
time before a developer would have visions
of the pristine Los Cabos coastline covered
with velvety green blankets. This man was
Don Koll from Orange County, California,
owner of the Hotel Palmilla. So when he,
in 1990, asked golfing guru Jack Nicklaus
to design three nine-hole courses near the
hotel, Los Cabos took the first step toward
becoming the premier golfing destination it is
today: no fewer than six signature championship courses now grace the Corridor some
of the most spectacularly set courses on the
planet.
By all accounts, each of these coastal courses
is a golfers dream and an environmentalists
nightmare, although local regulations at least
require all golf courses to be irrigated with
gray water.
The following courses are described from
east to west. Green fees change with the season, with winter rates (generally, mid-October
to mid-June) the highest. Summer green fees
(the rest of the year) can be nearly half the
winter rate. Most courses offer twilight fees
(more like roaster fees) for play after anytime
between 10:30am and noon in summer and
1:30pm and 3pm in winter, when it can be
brutally hot. All green fees quoted here include golf cart, driving range, bottled water
and tax. Renting a set of clubs will set you
back another US$50 or so.
SLEEPING
For more information on where to sleep in
Cabo, see p219.
5117; www.cabosurfhotel; Transpeninsular Km 28; r US$180670; pas) If you want to surf and treat
Resorts
All the resorts on the Corridor fall into the
five-star luxury category with amenities and
prices to match. Breathtaking bay views,
gorgeous landscaping and top-rated service
are de rigeur, as are facilities such as swimming pool(s) with swim-up bars, lighted tennis
courts, multiple restaurants and bars, fitness
centers and room service. Most rooms have
ocean views and private terraces. Rarely do
they cost less than US$200 per night. Some hotels enforce minimum stays (especially around
holidays) of two or more nights. All resorts
can arrange for a wide range of activities from
sportfishing to horseback riding to diving.
The Corridors resorts include (but are not
limited to) those here, and are listed from east
to west. The following rates are all per night,
and are only meant as a rough idea of what
rooms cost. Unless noted, the following hotels
operate on the European plan. For more on
resorts, see p219.
One & Only Palmilla (Hotel Palmilla Resort; %1467000, in the USA 800-637-2226, 866-829-2977; www
.oneandonlyresorts.com; Transpeninsular Km 27; r US$375-1125,
ste US$650-2600; pnais) Built in 1956
LOS CABOS
L O S C A B O S C O R R I D O R S l e e p i n g 233
234 L O S C A B O S C O R R I D O R E a t i n g
This mega-resort boasts daring, modern architecture and landscaping designed to complement the desert colors and surroundings.
With a bit of imagination (and a couple of
margaritas), you can see what the architect
was going for: the arches of the hotel reference
the arches of Lands End. You can literally
fall out of the swimming pool into the sand;
proximity to the beach is one of the hotels
most alluring features. And the beach itself
is to die for. Families and couples will both
feel comfortable.
Hotel Meli Cabo Real (%144-0000, in the USA 800336-3542; www.solmelia.com; Transpeninsular Km 19.5; d
US$270-795; pnais) Of the Meli com-
LOS CABOS
EATING
Eating along the Corridor takes place mostly
at the resort hotels, where you should figure
on spending at least US$40 per person for a
full meal, including wine.
Pitahayas (%145-8010; Sheraton Hacienda del Mar;
h5:30-10pm; mains US$20-35) Pitahayas is one of
the most highly regarded restaurants in the
Corridor and a sure-shot if youre out for a
decadent evening. It specializes in Pacific Rim
cuisine, including vegetarian selections and
has fabulous ocean views.
Notable eateries outside the resorts include
the following.
Zippers Bar & Grill (%172-6162; Transpeninsular Km
28, Zippers Beach; mains US$7-15; h11am-10pm) Zippers caters to surfers (meaning big portions of
pub grub) and specializes in mesquite-grilled
beef, ribs, beer-battered shrimp and classic
rock. The hamburgers and fish and chips are
both excellent, but it hurts every time Free
Bird rolls around (again) on the stereo.
7 Seas (%142-2666; Transpeninsular Km 28; mains
US$9-18; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Inside Cabo
Surf Hotel, 7 Seas prepares seafood and
steaks with equal aplomb, though the former
(including shrimp risotto, lobster, seafood-stuffed peppers and more) is the real
specialty. Dinner atmosphere is romantic yet
casual, while lunches and breakfasts are laidback affairs.
Sunset da Mona Lisa (%145-8160; Transpeninsular
Km 5.5; mains US$17-35) No matter the silly name
the restaurants dramatic, terraced, clifftop
setting makes it one of the best spots in the
Corridor to watch the sun set over Lands End.
The menu is strictly Italian. Located at the
Misiones del Cabo development at Km 5.5.
lonelyplanet.com
HISTORY
Before the arrival of the Spaniards, the area
of present-day Cabo San Lucas was inhabited by the indigenous Peric. Spaniard Juan
Rodrguez Cabrillo landed here in 1542, but
the place remained a backwater, visited only
by occasional privateers such as Sir Francis
Drake (in 1578) and Tomas Cavendish (in
1587), who used the natural harbor as a base
for staging raids on Spains Manila galleons
heading to Acapulco.
Continued pirate attacks on their treasureladen galleons prompted the Spanish to investigate establishing a stronghold in the cape,
but, while Cabo San Lucas had a natural harbor, it had no fresh water. A Spanish presence
wasnt secured in the area until the founding
of Misin San Jos del Cabo, some 32km (20
miles) east, in 1730. The harbor at Cabo San
Lucas remained a hideout for pirates well into
the 18th century (which explains the plethora
of pirate names and activities in Cabo San
Lucas today). Aside from small-scale ventures
by local inhabitants, Cabo San Lucas remained
a relative backwater until sportfishing hit the
cape in the 1950s and 1960s. With the completion of the Transpeninsular in 1973, San Lucas
began to attract more American road-trippers
as well as a steady increase in developers that
has grown exponentially ever since.
ORIENTATION
At the southernmost tip of the Baja peninsula,
Cabo San Lucas is 1694km (1059 miles) from
Tijuana and, via Mxico 1, 221km (137 miles)
from La Paz; via Mxico 19, its 153km (95
miles) from La Paz. The Transpeninsular is
also called Carretera a San Jos del Cabo,
whereas Mxico 19 is referred to as Carretera
a Todos Santos. A bypass road skirting Cabos
northeastern edge connects the two.
The towns main drag, Blvd Lzaro Crdenas
(abbreviated to Crdenas), is a continuation of
the Transpeninsular. Past the intersection with
Zaragoza, it peters out into a minor shopping
street while most of the action continues along
Blvd Marina, culminating at Lands End. Most
services are along Crdenas and Blvd Marina.
The commercial area north of Crdenas here
has a more local flair.
Cabo does not use street numbers, so
addresses always specify the nearest cross
streets.
INFORMATION
Bookstores
Emergency Services
Cruz Roja (Red Cross; Map p236; %ambulance 066,
143-3300; Mxico 19, Km 121)
Fire (%068, 143-3577)
IMSS Hospital (Map p236; %emergency 143-1194,
nonemergency 143-1589) Just north of the Pemex station
on Mxico 19.
LOS CABOS
C A B O S A N LU C A S H i s t o r y 235
ad
r
ue
Hi
re
ro
ata
ap
ro
de
Blvd
Ma
Ca
da
lgo
c
lgo n Lu
da
Hi o Sa
b
a
C
as
an
S
bo
13
Av So
lmar
25
MEX
24
19
n Jos
23
Paseo Sa
28
Cruise Ship
Dock
ar
olm
Av S
16
26
22
22
18
Club Cascades
de Baja
Jos
17
San
11
To Club Cabo
Motel & Resort
Camp (1.5km)
C1
C1
C1
C1
10
Lands
End
Marin
Lu
cas
D2
B1
B1
D2
C2
D2
A1
C4
D2
C1
D4
D2
D2
TRANSPORT
Payless.......................................28 C1
ENTERTAINMENT
Las Varitas.................................27 C2
Passion Club & Lounge............(see 14)
DRINKING
Nikki Beach..............................(see 14)
Rainbow Bar..............................25 C3
Sandbar.....................................26 D2
Whale Watcher Bar..................(see 13)
EATING
Billygan's...................................19
El Michoacano............................20
Huarachazo................................21
Mango Deck..............................22
Peacock's...................................23
The Office................................. 24
SLEEPING
Faro Viejo Trailer Park................12
Hotel Finisterra..........................13
Hotel Meli San Lucas................14
Hotel Olas..................................15
Hotel Solmar Suites....................16
Pueblo Bonito Resort.................17
Pueblo Bonito Ros Resort.........18
Los Frailes
INFORMATION
Banamex.......................................1
Dr Z's Internet Caf & Bar............2
Immigration Office.......................3
Lavandera....................................4
14 Playa Mdano
to
oad
R
Old
Playa Solmar
Puerto
Paraso
Mall
27
as
en
lec
rd
C
po
d
Blv arina
M
am
Oc
Puerto
Paraso
Mall
15
za
an
rr
Ca
Ma
ert
bre
l
iem
vo
ov
Re
N
de
20
re
d
a
mb
t
er
tie
Lib
ep
S
s
de
roe
H
16
os
i
N
ore
Lib
n
uci
nz
rra
Ca
los
d
12
re
po
tub
500 m
0.3 miles
236 C A B O S A N LU C A S
am
c
eO
re
Ob
20
0
0
Vic
Oc
To Mxico 19 (3km);
IMSS Hospital;
Main Bus Terminal;
(3km); Cruz Roja;
21
Faro Viejo (5km)
12
n
k
es
ral
Ali
Mo
s
are
ros
mo
ata
a
teg
Or
Mi
een
Gr
o
ari
za
ndo
oz
na
nd
rde
M
Me
rin
o
Le
cn
na
ra
Me
Fa
Ma
na
z
me
o
ase
a
el
rde
or
Se
cad
Ma
le
de
Pes
16
bre
m
tie
del
ec
eo
Pas
al
LOS CABOS
lonelyplanet.com
C A B O S A N LU C A S I n f o r m a t i o n 237
Two Days
Start off the morning by renting snorkel gear and taking a water taxi to Playa del Amor (p240)
for some beach and underwater fun. Return for lunch at Nikki Beach (p250) on Playa Mdano
(p240) to maximize beach time. Take a sunset pirate cruise aboard the 19th-century Sunderland
(p244). Return to land for a late dinner at Mi Casa (p248) before a long night of bar hopping.
On your second day, rent a car and drive to Cabo Pulmo (p207), stopping in Pueblo La Playa
(p229) for a massive breakfast burrito at Buzzards Bar (p229).
After snorkeling the coral reef, have lunch at Nancys (p209) and, on your way back to Cabo
San Lucas, stop at Mesn del El Ahorcado (p226) in San Jos del Cabo for dinner. After this,
youll surely sleep the whole flight home.
Four Days
Follow the two-day plan but hang on to your rental car so you can drive to La Candelaria (p252)
for traditional ceramics and a taste of ranch life. Go from ranchos to riches by dining at fabulous
Mariscos Mocambo (p248) upon your return to Cabo San Lucas. On day four, head to San Jos
del Cabo in the morning for Los Cabos best shopping (p227); hit the Mercado Municipal (p225)
for local action and a cheap lunch. Spend the afternoon on Playa Santa Mara (p230) and return
to Cabo for more nighttime merrymaking.
One Week
To the four-day plan add an overnight trip to historic Todos Santos (p210) or to vibrant La Paz
(p189) for a spectacular sea-kayaking trip to Isla Espritu Santo (p200).
Laundry
Immigration
%143-0135; cnr Crdenas & Faras; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri)
Internet Access
Media
Using the internet in San Lucas can put a serious dent in the wallet if you are not careful.
Caf Cabo Mail (Map pp238-9; cnr Cardenas & Zaragoza,
There are loads of English-language publications floating around town, most of them
geared blatantly toward selling real estate.
There are a handful of old faithfuls, however,
that contain plenty of good information,
from tongue-in-cheek news bits to restaurant
reviews. Look out for the following.
Destino: Los Cabos Quarterly newspaper with good
Internet Resources
Cabo Bobs (www.cabobob.com) Great site, for Cabo
Bobs humor as much as for his trove of information.
LOS CABOS
238 C A B O S A N LU C A S C e n t r a l C a b o s S a n Lu c a s
lonelyplanet.com
30
33
l
ore
os
nz
rra
Ca
za
in
luc
vo
Re
po
B4
E1
D5
D5
D1
E1
D4
D4
D3
C1
E5
E3
D1
E5
25
am
SLEEPING
Bungalows Breakfast Inn..........21
Cabo Inn...................................22
Casa Bella................................ 23
Hotel Dos Mares......................24
Hotel El Dorado........................25
Hotel Los Arcos.........................26
Hotel Los Milagros...................27
Hotel Mar de Cortez................28
Hotel Mlida............................29
Hotel Santa Fe..........................30
Hotel Tesoro.............................31
Las Margaritas Inn....................32
Posada San Antonio.................33
Siesta Suites Hotel....................34
Ob
Oc
reg
To Todos
Santos (77km);
La Paz (153km)
o
rag
Za
INFORMATION
Baja Money Exchange................1 E5
Banca Serfin...............................2 E3
Banco Santander........................3 D5
Caf Cabo Mail..........................4 E3
Internet Express.........................5 D4
Lavandera California.............(see 26)
Lavandera Santa Fe...............(see 30)
Libros Libros Books Books...........6 E5
Los Delfines...........................(see 26)
Police Station..............................7 F1
Post Office..................................8 F1
Secretaria de Turismo de Baja
California Sur.....................(see 18)
The Corner................................ 9 D4
US Consulate............................10 E5
lo
aso
Ab
re
mb
vie
o
eN
20
ad
ert
Lib
re
mb
tie
16
de
p
Se
s
io
roe
12
N
57
29
Gu
ad
ert
er
Lib
ata
mo
ro
27
ro
re
Hi
el n
Migu
lgo
da
21
LOS CABOS
DRINKING
Barmetro..............................(see 17)
El Squid Roe.............................63 E3
Giggling Marlin......................(see 44)
Hemingway's...........................64 D4
65 E4
Jungle Bar................................
n
ci
66 E2
Love Shack...............................
tu
i
t
s
67 F3
Nowhere Bar............................
on
C
Panchos..................................68 D5
TangaTanga..........................(see 42)
de
TRANSPORT
Advantage...............................79
Aero California.........................80
Alamo......................................81
Buses to San Jos......................82
Dollar.......................................83
E2
E5
F2
F2
F2
as
en
23
Parque
Amelia
Wilkes
55
ro
de
Ma
37
51
24
as
D4
E3
D4
E3
E3
D4
70
64
uc
SHOPPING
Faces of Mexico.......................73
Flea Market..............................74
Galeras Zen-Mar..................... 75
Tierra Huichol...........................76
Veryka.....................................77
Wixrarika................................. 78
5
Plaza
de los
Mariachis
78
as
en
rd
C
nL
Sa
ENTERTAINMENT
Again & Again..........................69 E2
Cabo Wabo Cantina................ 70 D4
Mambo Caf............................71 E6
Sancho Panza........................(see 58)
Zoo..........................................72 E3
yo
bo
Ca
EATING
Armburo Supermarket............35 E3
Baja Cantina.............................36 E6
Cabo Coffee Co.......................37 D5
Crazy Lobster.......................... 38 D5
El Oasis....................................39 D6
El Pescador...............................40 E3
El Pollo de Oro.........................41 E2
Fish House................................42 E5
French Riviera...........................43 E2
Giggling Marlin........................44 E4
Gordo Lele...............................45 E5
La Europea...............................46 F3
La Palapa The Gus....................47 E3
La Pampa................................ 48 D6
La Trattoria...............................49 E3
Los Paisas..................................50 E1
Mams Royal Caf................. 51 D5
Margaritavilla...........................52 E3
Mariscos Mazatln...................53 F2
Mariscos Mocambo..................54 E2
Mi Casa................................... 55 D5
O Mole Mo.............................56 E4
Restaurant Doa Lolita............57 D3
Sancho Panza...........................58 E5
Seor Lechn...........................59 E2
Shrimp Factory.........................60 E5
Solomon's Landing...................61 E6
Spencers...............................(see 28)
Tutto Bene.............................. 62 D6
73
C
rd
errer
28
gel H
75
38
68
ata
p
Za
48
39
62
C A B O S A N LU C A S D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s 239
lonelyplanet.com
0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
F
To San Jos
del Cabo
(29km)
Me
50
a
oz
nd
26
aV
on
Le
rio
ic a
41
22
59
n Jos
Paseo Sa
na
C
rde
69
82
Mo
66
63
os
rel
76
ec
49
M
al
4
77
Plaza
Armburo
46
17
dM
Blv
32
35
Post
79
43
53
83
81
47
Money
near Zaragoza)
54
40
Plaza Bonita
na
ari
Tourist Information
67
52
74
Oc
72
am
Marina
Cabo San Lucas
po
44
M
Blvd
65
Travel Agencies
Los Delfines (Map pp238-9; %143-1396, 143-3096;
53
80
10
Plaza Nutica
45
d M
ari
na
Ma
Blv
lec
42
60
5
n
34
Marina
Cabo San Lucas
58
31
Hotel Tesoro
36
(former Plaza
13
Las Glorias)
71
11
20
14
Sportfishing Docks
61
Public
Parking
Lots
18
16
19
A major annoyance is the gauntlet of timeshare salespeople lined up along Blvd Marina
like buzzards on a fence. They will try to entice
you with free meals, drinks or rounds of golf
if you attend a short tour and presentation,
which usually ends up taking up half your
vacation day. Do your best to ignore them.
If youre not used to Mexican resort beaches,
the many wandering beach vendors often
poor immigrants from mainland Mexico can
be abrasive. Dressed in their city-mandated
white outfits, they are especially prevalent
LOS CABOS
arina
15
240 C A B O S A N LU C A S S i g h t s
SIGHTS
Built into the solitary hill in downtown Cabo
San Lucas, the Casa de la Cultura (Map pp238-9;
entrance on Nios Hroes) is home to a theater, a
small park and a mirador (lookout point). The
mirador is surrounded by landscaped gardens
and offers a view of all of Cabo. It is a peaceful
retreat from the craziness of downtown.
LOS CABOS
Playa Mdano
Cabo San Lucas has three main beaches. The
most popular is Playa Mdano (Dune Beach;
Map p236), which runs northeast for about
3km (2 miles) from the Hacienda Beach Resort (under renovation). The water is crystal
clear and calm, making it ideal for swimming (or, as the case may be, wading with a
margarita glass in hand). Buoyed swimming
areas keep the jet skis, parasailers and fishing
pangas away from the swimmers (at least
in theory), and cruise ships float offshore.
With several bars placed right on the beach,
its a great place to chill out, pound your
favorite cocktails and basically feel merry
in the sun.
lonelyplanet.com
Lands End
After stretching 1240km (775 miles) from the
California border, the peninsula comes to a
dramatic end at El Arco (Map p236), a natural
granite archway with the Sea of Cortez on one
side and the Pacific on the other. Immediately
offshore stand Los Frailes (Monks), two granite
pinnacles that offer some very unique rock
climbing, should you feel inclined (in fact,
a scene from the movie Everest was filmed
here). Just off the eastern shore, the thin spire
of Neptunes Finger protrudes some 24m (80ft)
out of the water.
Lands End is also home to Bajas most
famous beach, Playa del Amor (Lovers Beach),
which has sands on both the Pacific Ocean
and the bay side. Hurricanes have eroded
the bay side of the beach significantly but
the Pacific side still has plenty of sand. The
Pacific side is unsafe for swimming, however,
and is jokingly referred to as Divorce Beach.
From Playa del Amor, its possible to swim
(or walk at low tide) to Roca Pelicano (Pelican
Rock), named for the many pelicans that
roost upon it.
Lands End is equally spectacular below the
water. A vast underwater canyon begins below
the surface and descends steeply for hundreds
of feet. After leveling off to a gentler grade, it
drops slowly to a depth of 1800m (6000ft).
Granite walls up to 900m (3000ft) high tower
over the bottom of the canyon. If youd rather
stick closer to the surface, youll find excellent
snorkeling off Playa del Amor. The diving at
all levels is superb.
Lands End and Playa del Amor are separated from Cabo San Lucas by a Class 3
scramble over the rocks behind Hotel Solmar
(not recommended). The best way out is by
water taxi from Playa Mdano or the Hotel
Tesoro docks. They charge anywhere from
US$7 to US$12 depending on who you ask
and how many people are in your group
(hang on to your ticket for a return trip).
Some days the waves are too rough for the
taxis to land, in which case youll have to hit
a different beach.
Playa Solmar
Playa Solmar (Map p236), on the Pacific side
of the point, is quieter and well suited for sunbathing, but has a reputation for unpredictable breakers that drown several unsuspecting
tourists every year. Its accessible via the road
to Hotel Solmar.
lonelyplanet.com
ACTIVITIES
Surfing
Fishing
LOS CABOS
C A B O S A N LU C A S A c t i v i t i e s 241
242 C A B O S A N LU C A S A c t i v i t i e s
lonelyplanet.com
LOS CABOS
800-344-3349; www.amigosdelmar.com) Near the cruiseship dock, south of Blvd Marina off Av Solmar. PADI. Long
in the business.
Andromeda Divers (Map p236; %143-2765; www
.scubadivecabo.com; Playa Mdano at Billigans) All PADI
courses available.
Lands End Divers (Map pp238-9; %143-2200; www
.mexonline.com/landsend.htm; Hotel Tesoro, Local A-5) All
courses, tours available. Hotel pickup throughout Los Cabos.
Neptune Divers (Map pp238-9; %143-7111; Hotel
Tesoro)
Tio Sports (Map p236; %143-3399; www.tiosports
.com; Playa Mdano at Hotel Meli San Lucas)
Underwater Diversions (Map pp238-9; %143-4004;
www.divecabo.com; Hotel Tesoro, Local F5-7)
Golf
With its six signature championship golf
courses along the Los Cabos Corridor, Cabo
San Lucas has become one of the worlds premier golfing destinations. The courses are
described in the Corridor section (above).
lonelyplanet.com
C A B O S A N LU C A S C a b o S a n Lu c a s f o r C h i l d re n 243
Horseback Riding
Rancho Collins (Map p236; % 143-3652), based
directly across the road from the Club
Cascadas de Baja complex, offers a variety of
well-received horseback rides and has been
in the horse business for years. Rides include
a one-hour beach ride (US$30 per person),
a two-hour beach-and-desert ride (US$60
per person) and a four-hour mountain tour
(US$80 per person). For operators in the
Corridor, see p232.
TOURS
All sorts of boat tours are offered in Cabo.
Your hotel will likely be able to set you up
with something if you dont feel like dealing
directly with the operators.
Water Sports
LOS CABOS
244 C A B O S A N LU C A S Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s
Pirate Cruises
For something a little different, take a pirate
cruise aboard the Sunderland (%143-2714; www
.pirateshipcabo.com), a beautiful 19th-century
four-masted tall ship that lets you glide into
the sunset without noisy engine sounds. The
crew dresses in pirates garb, and the captain
himself will shower you with tales of Cabos
sordid corsair past. The cost is US$40,
or US$20 for kids under 12. Contact the
Sunderlands office by telephone.
The 96ft Buccaneer Queen (%105-9293, 144-4217)
is a splendid three-masted tall ship offering
whale-watching and sunset cruises as well as its
Treasure Hunt cruise which includes a visit to
Lands End and the sea-lion colony, snorkeling
at Baha Chileno, games and an open bar. The
sunset cruise incorporates swashbuckling
pirate performances into the spectacle of
Cabos sunset. Reserve by telephone.
LOS CABOS
Whale-Watching Cruises
During the peak of the gray whale migration,
from January to March, you can easily spot
whales right from the shore. You can get even
closer by jumping aboard a whale-watching
cruise. Many of the cruise ships listed earlier,
as well as Cabo Expeditions (p243) and JT
Watersports (above) also run whale-watching
trips. They cost between US$35 and US$45
and usually last three hours.
SLEEPING
Cabo San Lucas plethora of accommodations
include the resorts along Playa Mdano and
Playa Solmar and plenty of small, independently owned hotels and B&B-type places in
the center of town.
No hotel in Cabo San Lucas is cheap
enough to be considered budget; this is
about the priciest place to stay on the peninsula. Campgrounds and RV parks are just
east of town.
Unlike the Mexican resorts of Cancn
and Mazatln, Cabo San Lucas lacks any real
gay scene, and there are no specifically gay
hotels. But most luxury hotels are so large
and anonymous and the smaller hotels
friendly enough that sexuality is generally
a nonissue.
For a general discussion of where to sleep
in Cabo, see p219.
Downtown
MIDRANGE
C A B O S A N LU C A S S l e e p i n g 245
reef (p207).
USA 800-347-8821; www.mardecortez.com; Crdenas near Guerrero; r US$62-68, ste US$82; as) This Cabo faithful
LOS CABOS
246 C A B O S A N LU C A S S l e e p i n g
TOP END
the USA 718-928-6647; www.losmilagros.com.mx; Matamoros 116; r US$75-115; as) This US-owned
LOS CABOS
tral Cabos most secluded hideaway, a palmfringed pool gives way to 16 light-flooded
studios and two-bedroom bungalows with
Mexican furnishings, fridges and beds you
simply melt into. Everything has been decorated with love, including the private patios,
which make venturing outside the hotel difficult. The gourmet breakfasts garner rave
reviews. The hotel is just off Calle Libertad
(follow the signs from Constitucin).
Hotel Tesoro (Map pp238-9; %173-9300, ext 1450/51;
www.tesororesorts.com; r US$166-235; pais)
lonelyplanet.com
Camping
Cabo San Lucas has only one campground/RV
park in town. The rest are east of town along
the Corridor.
Faro Viejo Trailer Park (Map p236; %143-4211;
Morales btwn Matamoros & Abasolo; site US$15-20) Cabo
San Lucas only in-town campground, Faro
Viejo has full hookups, sites for tents and
clean bathrooms.
Club Cabo Motel & Camp Resort (Map p231; %1433348; sites per person US$15, cabaa US$70; s) After
Faro Viejo, this Dutch-operated RV park is
the closest to town. Its also the most congenial and has dependable services and stylish
thatched-roof cabaas. The grounds, which lie
adjacent to a migratory bird refuge, are quiet,
well maintained and feature a large swimming
pool, Jacuzzi and barbecue area. Its a bit hidden but well signposted once you turn toward
the beach at the intersection of the Transpeninsular and the Cabo bypass road. The resort
is 1.6km (1 mile) east of Club Cascadas de
Baja (Map p236), just before the Villas de
Palmar development.
EATING
Mexican
Calle Leona Vicario has been dubbed Taco
Alley for good reason. The street is lined with
taqueras offering good, cheap, authentic food
(mostly tacos, of course) all day, all night.
Los Paisas (Map pp238-9; cnr Leona Vicario & Revolucin;
tacos US$1.25; h6pm-6am) Renowned for its beef
tacos and stuffed potatoes (both always served
with a plate of grilled onions and a couple of
This small eatery serves delicious homestyle Mexican fare from an outdoor kitchen
of wood-burning stoves and black iron pots.
The daily changing menu usually features four
main dishes and a soup.
Solomons Landing (Map pp238-9; %143-3090, 1433050; Blvd Marina s/n, Hotel Tesora, Local 19 & 20; mains US$820) When you just want a good ol Cabo-style
LOS CABOS
C A B O S A N LU C A S E a t i n g 247
248 C A B O S A N LU C A S E a t i n g
With wrought-iron furniture, Mayan fertility figures adorning the walls and colorful
lanterns for light, the decor is as creative as
the food. Even standards like enchiladas and
tamales are presented with a whole new twist.
The seafood is outstanding. Lobster (US$30)
is the priciest thing on the menu.
Baja Cantina (Map pp238-9; %143-1591; www
un-swanky best: outdoor seating over the marina, anglers downing margaritas over chips
and salsa, great service, huge plates of tasty
(though slightly Americanized) Mexican food,
stiff drinks and relatively reasonable prices.
No fluff here. Good breakfasts.
Mi Casa (Map pp238-9; %143-1933; www.micasa
LOS CABOS
lonelyplanet.com
Seafood
Seafood, of course, is a Cabo specialty, and
there are numerous restaurants where you
can get your fill.
El Pescador (Map pp238-9; cnr Zaragoza & Nios Hroes;
mains US$7-13) The menu at this modest and
friendly eatery is an oceanic treasure trove:
shrimp, fish, oysters, snails, crab, octopus
you name it, its served here. Its casual and
prices are good.
Mariscos Mazatln (Map pp238-9; %143-8565; cnr
Mendoza & 16 de Septiembre; mains US$7-18; h11am10pm) Local families fill the big dining room
C A B O S A N LU C A S E a t i n g 249
lonelyplanet.com
International
Other
LOS CABOS
fried shrimp and lobster by the kilo or halfkilo. The lobsters good, but the shrimp is
where its really at. A kilo of the latter serves
two to three and costs US$40 for large shrimp
and US$60 for jumbo, with rice, beans and
tortillas included.
250 C A B O S A N LU C A S D r i n k i n g
DRINKING
No time is a bad time to drink in Cabo San
Lucas, where bars range from beachfront
palapas and smoky expat hang-outs and chic
martini bars to wild, sex-charged loony bins.
The best bars for watching the sun plop into the
Pacific are at the Playa Solmar hotels, especially
the Hotel Finisterras Whale Watcher Bar.
LOS CABOS
lonelyplanet.com
Saunter into this sophisticated cigar and tequila lounge for good smokes and great swill.
The tequila bar features more than 150 premium tequilas, and you can purchase a tasting
of five types (which keeps you from getting
drunk and going broke too quickly). Theres
a walk-in humidifier for top-end Cuban puros
(cigars), and the bar serves knockout mojitos
and daiquiris.
TangaTanga (Map pp238-9; Blvd Marina near Guerrero)
Sun-baked expats and return vacationers
lonelyplanet.com
ENTERTAINMENT
With so many vacationers pouring into Cabo,
dress codes at clubs tend to be more relaxed
than in other Mexican cities. Cover charges
are generally high (US$15 to US$30) at the
bigger clubs.
Live Music
Clubbing
Passion Club & Lounge (Map p236; %145-7800, ext 745;
Hotel Meli San Lucas, Playa Mdano) Hosting everything from Pimp & Ho balls to international
SHOPPING
Downtown Cabo is teeming with souvenir
shops hawking more or less the same cheesy
trinkets, usually at inflated prices so sharpen
those bargaining skills. The stretch of Crdenas between Matamorros and Ocampo is
especially thick with souvenir shops. If youre
in the market for high-end Mexican crafts,
consider heading over to San Jos del Cabo
where the shopping is better.
For a more Mexican-style shopping experience wander up Morelos. You likely wont
take anything home, but youll see how the
locals shop.
Flea Market (Map pp238-9; cnr Crdenas & Ocampo)
This maze of crafts stalls is the easiest place
to stock up on souvenirs. Picking through
the stalls is fun.
Faces of Mexico (Map pp238-9; cnr Crdenas & Guerrero)
Good selection of arts and crafts.
Galeras Zen-Mar (Map pp238-9; %143-0661; Crdenas near Matamoros) Offers traditional indigenous
crafts, Zapotec weavings, bracelets and spectacular masks.
Plaza Bonita (cnr Crdenas & Blvd Marina) is home
to several shops, including Veryka (Map pp2389; %105-1855; Plaza Bonita, Crdenas 231, Local 34-C),
which showcases the very best of the countrys artisans and crafts persons. The prices
are high, but these are internationally known
artists. Its worth a browse even if you dont
intend to buy.
To pick up some of the practically psychedelic beadwork of Jaliscos indigenous
Huichol, visit Tierra Huichol (Map pp238-9; %1050857; cnr Morelos & Crdenas) or Wixrarika (Map pp238-9;
%105-0513; Blvd Marina, Plaza Los Mariachis, Local 3-B).
The Puerto Paraso Mall (Map pp238-9; Crdenas)
provides a typically international mall-of-the21st-century experience.
LOS CABOS
C A B O S A N LU C A S E n t e r t a i n m e n t 251
252 C A B O S A N LU C A S G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y
lonelyplanet.com
LOS CABOS
DETOUR: LA CANDELARIA
A few days in Cabo San Lucas makes it easy to forget youre in Mexico. A bumpy drive through
the cacti and mesquite to the village of La Candelaria (population 85) will take care of that.
This small rancho (rural settlement) in the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna is known for its
traditional clayware and makes a perfect day trip, not to mention an excellent excuse to buy
some locally made pottery.
In many ways, life in La Candelaria is much as it was on the peninsulas ranchos generations
ago, when livestock was slaughtered at home, and household items such as leather riding chaps,
horse-hair ropes, huaraches (sandals) and pottery were all made by hand.
Many of these traditions have faded from Baja ranch life, but in the last decade, La Candelarias
pottery tradition has resurfaced, thanks in large part to the efforts of US expat Lorena Hankins,
who helped rekindle the craft among a group of local women. Several houses in town, and
especially Hankins, sell beautiful handmade clayware: cazuelas (cooking bowls), tinajas (water
coolers), ollas (bean pots) and tortilleras (tortilla holders). Theyre all as functional as they are
beautiful. The tinajas, for example, keep water cool through evaporation, even in the sweltering
summer heat. No glazes are used on the pottery, so theres no lead to worry about. You simply
season them yourself and cook away.
All the clayware is made from scratch, beginning with the arduous process of digging up the
clay, grinding it with mano y metate (mortar and pestle) and sifting out the powder. Each piece
is formed by hand without a wheel, burnished several times with stones and fired in the ground.
The result is a beautiful, blackish-gray, totally functional work of art.
A few men in town also make exceptionally durable chairs from palo chino (a deciduous
hardwood) and woven palm buds. From tree trunk to chair, they make everything by hand. Ask
at the house at the end of the road through town, near Lorena Hankins.
During La Candelarias small sugarcane harvest (usually in March or April), residents fire up
the old Cuban sugar press by belting the gears to the rear wheel of an old truck (when the
tractor isnt working). Around this time, you can buy the finished product: delicious cones of
unrefined sugar called panocha. If youre lucky a few women may be making milcocha (sticky
taffy) near the press.
There are no restaurants out here. Either pack a lunch or ask around for Christinas house,
where Christina usually has something tasty on hand.
From Cabo San Lucas, head north on Leona Vicario, cross Mxico 19 (reset your odometer here)
and continue straight until you hit a three-way fork just after the pavement ends. Take the right
fork, and youll shortly reach a guarded gate, which an old man in a cowboy hat will open for
you. Immediately after the gate is another fork; stay left. At odometer reading 5.6km, youll reach
another fork; stay right. At odometer reading 7.5km youll pass the turn to El Zauzal (stay left).
About odometer-reading 9km, youll run across a sandy stretch through the settlement of Los
Pozos. At 13km youll reach another arroyo with a big fig tree on the left and a shrine beneath it.
Leaving the arroyo youll soon crest a hill and pass the junction to La Trinidad; veer left here and
youll drop down into La Candelaria. Note on your return the sign says Cabo San Lucas 22km.
The entire drive is actually about 27.5km (17 miles) from the highway to La Candelaria. It takes
about one to 1 hours and is passable for most cars except after heavy rains.
Bus
For buses to San Jos del Cabo, see Getting
Around, opposite. Long-distance buses operated by Autotransportes guila (%143-7880) leave
lonelyplanet.com
GETTING AROUND
Bus
A fleet of orange/blue or green/yellow buses
run between Cabo San Lucas and San Jos del
Cabo along the Corridor at approximately
half-hour intervals from early morning to
about 10pm.
In Cabo, the main stop for buses to San
Jos (Map pp2389) is on the south side of
Crdenas at Leona Vicario. Upon request,
the driver will stop at any of the hotels or
beaches along the Corridor. The flat fare is
US$2. Aguila buses departing from the main
bus terminal on Mxico 19 also stop in San
Jos del Cabo on their way to La Paz.
C A B O S A N LU C A S G e t t i n g A r o u n d 253
LOS CABOS
Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - Do the right thing with our content.