1

Wet process ing or dyeing is the importan t as pect for textil e

indus try. During this proces s ing many parameters have to contro l
f or getting des irable quality. O ne of the mos t important parameter
in dyeing is w as h fas tnes s of the fabrics or the dyed material .I f
this parameter is not good then the quality of the product and ever y
o ther proces s related w ith the process ing w hatever it is
p retreat ment or after treatm ent is was te out.

In This report w e try to evaluate the w as h fas tnes s o f

d ifferent fabrics incas e of different s hade percentage

2
3
 Reactive dyes:

Reactive dyes first appeared commercially in 1956, after

their invention in 1954 by Rattee and Stephens at the Imperial
Chemical Industries Dyestuffs Division site in Blackley,
Manchester, United Kingdom.

Reactive dyes are used to dye cellulosic fibres. The dyes

contain a reactive group, either a haloheterocycle or an activated
double bond, that, when applied to a fibre in an alkaline dye
bath, forms a chemical bond with an hydroxyl group on the
cellulosic fibre. Reactive dyeing is now the most important
method for the coloration of cellulosic fibres.

Reactive dyes can also be applied on wool and nylon; in the

latter case they are applied under weakly acidic conditions.
Reactive dyes have a low utilization degree compared to other
types of dyestuff, since the functional group also bonds to water,
creating hydrolysis.

4
 Function of reactive Dyes

Dyestuffs with only one functional group sometimes have a

low degree of fixation. To overcome this dyestuffs containing
two different reactive groups (i.e. one monochlorotriazin and one
vinyl sulfone) were created.

Dyestuffs containing two groups are also known as

bifunctional dyestuffs, though some still refers to the original
combination. Other types of bifunctional dyes has been
introduced. The first bifunctional dye made where more tolerant
to temperature deviations (better process). Other bifunctionals
are created, some with fastness (better quality) or only fixation
degree (better environment/economy) in mind.

Reactive dyes have good fastness properties owing to the

bonding that occurs during dyeing. Cotton is made of cellulose
molecules which react with the dye .During reactive dyeing the H
atom in the cellolose molecule combines with the cl atom in the
dyeing process and reults in a bond. Trifunctional dyestuffs also
exist

╬► Reactive dyes are categorized by functional group[1].

5
 Included in
Functional group Fixation Temperature
Brands

Basilen E & P
Monochlorotriazine Haloheterocycle 80˚ Cibacron E
Procion H,HE

Monofluorochlorotriazine Haloheterocycle 40˚ Cibacron F & C

Basilen M
Dichlorotriazine Haloheterocycle 30˚
Procion MX

Difluorochloropyrimidin Levafix EA
Haloheterocycle 40˚
e Drimarene K & R

Dichloroquinoxaline Haloheterocycle 40˚ Levafix E

Drimarene X & Z
Trichloropyrimidine Haloheterocycle 80-98˚
Cibacron T

Vinyl sulfone activated double bond 40˚ Remazol

Vinyl amide activated double bond 40˚ Remazol

6
7
 In the below the wash fastness test with
reactive dyes as dark, medium and light
shade of different fabrics is below

Colorfastness to wash

Shade types: Deep

8
Fabrication: Single Jersey

Name of color: Black Standard

Dyed Fabrics Before Washing Dyed fabrics After Washing

Multi-Fiber Fabric

9
Results:
SL Description of Test Test Results
1 Colorfastness to washing method followed:
ISO 105 C06: 1994- Single Test A2 with 4 gm/liter “ ECE” detergent
and 1 gm/liter sodium per borate solution- machine wash at 40º C.
Grade
Color change in shade 4.5
Staining in Acetate 4.5
Cotton 4.5
Polyamide 4.5
Polyester 4.5
Acrylic 4.5
Wool 4.5

Remarks:
Fastness Grade Shade change of Fastness white Staining of
tested sample sample Adjacent
Grade-4.5 Slight loss in depth Good Very slight
staining

Colorfastness to water

Shade types: Deep

10
Fabrication: Single Jersey

Name of color: Black Standard

Dyed Fabrics Before Washing Dyed fabrics After Washing

Multi-Fiber Fabric

11
Results:
SL Description of Test Test Results
1 Colorfastness to washing method followed:
ISO 105 C06: 1994- Single Test A2 with 4 gm/liter “ ECE” detergent
and 1 gm/liter sodium per borate solution- machine wash at 40º C.
Grade
Color change in shade 4.5
Staining in Acetate 4.5
Cotton 4.5
Polyamide 4.5
Polyester 4.5
Acrylic 4.5
Wool 4.5

Fastness Grade Shade change of Fastness white Staining of

tested sample sample Adjacent
Grade-4 Slight loss in depth Good Very slight
staining

Colorfastness to Perspiration

12
 ACID MEDIUM

Shade types: Deep

Fabrication: Single Jersey

Name of color: Black Standard

Dyed Fabrics Before Washing Dyed fabrics After Washing

Multi-Fiber Fabric

13
Result :
SL Description of Test Test Results
1 Colorfastness to washing method followed:
ISO 105 C06: 1994- Single Test A2 with 4 gm/liter “ ECE” detergent
and 1 gm/liter sodium per borate solution- machine wash at 40º C.
Grade
Color change in shade 4.5
Staining in Acetate 4.5
Cotton 4.5
Polyamide 4.5
Polyester 4.5
Acrylic 4.5
Wool 4.5

Remarks:
Fastness Grade Shade change of Fastness white Staining of
tested sample sample Adjacent
Grade-4 Slight loss in depth Good Very slight
staining

ALKALINE MEDIUM

Shade types: Deep

14
Fabrication: Single Jersey

Name of color: Black Standard

Dyed Fabrics Before Washing Dyed fabrics After Washing

Multi-Fiber Fabric

Results:

15
SL Description of Test Test Results
1 Colorfastness to washing method followed:
ISO 105 C06: 1994- Single Test A2 with 4 gm/liter “ ECE” detergent
and 1 gm/liter sodium per borate solution- machine wash at 40º C.
Grade
Color change in shade 4.5
Staining in Acetate 4.5
Cotton 4.5
Polyamide 4.5
Polyester 4.5
Acrylic 4.5
Wool 4.5
Remarks:

Fastness Grade Shade change of Fastness white Staining of

tested sample sample Adjacent
Grade-4 Slight loss in depth Good Very slight
staining

COLORFASTNESS TO TORUBBING
METHOD: SEN ISO 105*12

16
Shade types: Deep

Fabrication: Single Jersey

Name of color: Black Standard

DRY WET

Grade= 4.5 Grade= 4.5

ICI PILLING TEST

METHOD: BSEN 12945-1

17
Shade types: Deep

Fabrication: Single Jersey

Name of color: Black Standard

DRY WET

Grade= 4.5 Grade= 4.5

18
 ISO
The stability of color or its fastness is one of the most important
requirements of valuable customers. During use, a dyed material is exposed to a

19
variety of agencies that can cause its color fade i.e. the color decay from deeper
to paler shade. These changes occur because of decomposition of the dye
molecules in the fibre or because of their removal into the external medium. The
colored textiles show different resistance power to different agencies such as
light, wash, rubbing, perspiration, water, bleach, acid, alkali etc. and the aspect
of these agencies many colorfastness tests are using to determine the stability of
color in textile.

Dyed and printed materials are affected by some agencies such as washing,
light, water, dry cleaning, chlorine, perspiration and ironing. Color fastness is
the resistance of the color to fade or bleed by these agencies.

Fastness test are described in detail in documents from professional

organizations such as the society of dyers and colorists (SDC), British standards
(BS), the American association of textile chemists and colorists (AATCC) and
the American society for testing and materials (ASTM). Decides many countries
have own national color fastness testing standards but unfortunately, conditions
for a given test still vary considerably. Most European countries adopt the
fastness standards of the international organization for standardization as their
national standards. Hopefully, the continuing work of the ISO will lead to
greater acceptance of such international standards.
Color fastness is usually assessed separately with respect to:
1. Change in the color of the specimen being tested that is color fading.
2. Staining of undyed material which is in contact with the specimen during
the test that is bleeding of color.
In order to give numerical assessment of each of these effects two sets of
standard grey scales are used, one for color change and another for color
staining

AATCC
Colorfastness testing method

The American association of textile chemists and colorists

(AATCC) is an association of the professionals and research of

20
textile chemistry. This association has also developed many
standards for testing and quality control in textile and apparel
industry which are used and followed as “textile bible” around
the world today.
American society for testing material (ASTM) is another
organization which tests the quality level of different materials
including textile and apparels.

AATCC colorfastness evaluation System

For evaluation the colorfastness of a colored textile

AATCC introduce two 9-step grey scale one for evaluation the
change in shade and other for evaluation the staining of color
to the adjacent fabric.

╬► Gray Scale Rating for Color Change:

Grade-5: negligible or no change at shown in changing gray scale step 5.

Grade-4.5: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale sped 4-5.

Grade-4: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 4.

Grade-3.5: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 3-4.

Grade-3: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 3.

Grade-2.5: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 2-3.

Grade-2: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 2.

Grade-1.5: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 1-2.

Grade-1: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 1.

╬► Relation between colorfastness grade (changing) to total color

difference CILAB units (∆E):

Fastness grade CIELAB color difference tolerance

Value (∆E) CIELAB (∆E)

21
5 0.0 +0.2
4-5 0.8 ±0.2
4 1.7 ±0.3
3-4 2.5 ±0.3
3 3.4 ±0.4
2-3 4.8 ±0.5
2 6.8 ±0.6
1-2 9.6 ±0.7
1 13.6 ±1.0

╬► Gray scale rating for staining:

Grade-5: negligible or no change at shown in changing gray scale step 5.

Grade-4.5: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale sped 4-5.
Grade-4: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 4.
Grade-3.5: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 3-4.
Grade-3: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 3.
Grade-2.5: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 2-3.
Grade-2: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 2.
Grade-1.5: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 1-2.
Grade-1: a change in color equivalent to changing gray scale step 1.

╬► Relation between colorfastness grade (staining) to total color

difference CLELAB units (∆E):

Fastness grade CLELAB color difference Tolerance

Value (∆E) CIELAB (∆E)

22
5 0.0 + 0.2
4-5 2.2 ± 0.3
4 4.3 ± 0.3
3-4 6.0 ± 0.4
3 8.5 ± 0.5
2-3 12.9 ± 0.7
2 16.9 ± 1.0
1-2 24.0 ± 1.5
1 34.1 ± 2.0

NOTE: staining can evaluate by AATCC chromatic transference scale also.

T h e d y e d s p e c i m e n , m e a s u r i n g 1 0 c m * 4 c m a s b e f o r e i s s ew n
together with two pieces measuring 5cm*4cm. One piece is of
the same material as the specimen.

If the first piece be the second piece must be

Cotton Viscose
Linen Viscose
Viscose Cotton
Cellulose acetate Viscose
Polyamide Viscose or cotton
Polyester Viscose or cotton
Acrylic Viscose or cotton

If the first piece be the second piece must be

Cotton viscose
Linen viscose
Viscose cotton

23
 Cellulose acetate (triacetate only) viscose
Polyamide viscose or cotton
Polyester viscose or cotton
Acrylic viscose or cotton

The rinsing drying and assessment of the sample of the sample

are carried out in exactly the same manner as was the case
with test 1 to 3.

After treatment the composite sapless are in every case rinsed

twice in cold distilled water and then for 10 minutes in cold
running tap water. After squeezing, the stitching is removed
on the two long sides one short side, leaving the dyed
specimen and the undyed materials sewn together only along
one short side. The pieces are opened out and dried in air at a
temperature not above 60 º C.

24
 Color fastness:

Color fastness in normal sense refers to the resistance of color of a dyed or

printed textile to various types of influences (e.g. water, light, rubbing etc.) to

25
which they are normally exposed in textile manufacturing and in practical sense. So
we can say color fastness is the resistance of the color to fade or bleed by some
agencies like washing light water chlorine perspiration ironing etc.

The stability of color or its fastness is one of the most important

requirements of valuable customers. During use, a dyed material is exposed to
verity of agencies that can cause its color fade i.e. the decay from deeper to paler
shade. These changes occur because of decomposition of the dye molecules in the
or because of their removal into the external medium.

The colored textiles show different resistance power to different agencies

such as light wash rubbing perspiration water bleach acid alkali etc, and the aspect
of these agencies many color fastness tests are using to determine the stability of
color in textile.

Color fastness is usually assessed separately with respect to-

• Change in color of the specimen being rested, which color is fading.

• Staining of undyed material which is in contact with specimen during, that

is color bleeding.

╬► Color fastness tests used in textiles:

The out standing important property of a dyed material is the fastness of its
shade. A number of tests are necessary to cover all the important properties of any
one shade.

26
AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) has described
66 color fastness tests which are available n the manuals of S.D.C (Society of Dyers
and Colorists) and I.S.O. According to the agencies tending to fade the color shade,
color fastness considered in different types-

1. Color fastness to Light.

2. Color fastness to Wash.

3. Color fastness to Rubbing.

4. Color fastness to Water.

5. Color fastness to Perspiration.

6. Color fastness to Sea-water.

7. Color fastness to Acid.

8. Color fastness to Alkalis.

9. Color fastness to Bleaches.

10. Color fastness to Mercerizing.

11. Color fastness to Cross-dyeing.

12. Color fastness to Anti-shrinkage treatment.

13. Color fastness to Heat and so on.

But of the above, the first five are more important.

╬► Factors affecting the color fastness properties:

27
» The molecular structure (e.g.) of a dye molecule. If the dye molecule is larger in
size, it will be tightly entrapped inside the inter-polymer chain space of a fiber.
Thus the fastness will be better.

» The manner in which the dye is bonded to the fiber or the physical form present.

» The amount of dye present in the fiber i.e. depth of shade. A deep shade will be
less fast than a pale or light shade.

» The chemical nature of the fiber. For example, cellulosic fibers dyed with
reactive or vat dyes will show good fastness properties. Protein fibers dyed with
acid mordant and reactive dyes will achieve good fastness properties and so on.
That is to say compatibility of dye with the fiber is very important.
» The presence of other chemicals in the material.
» The actual conditions prevailing during exposure.

28
29
Grey scale:
Grey scale is an empirical scale containing a series of pairs of neutrally
colored chips, showing increasing contrast within pairs. It is used visually to assess
contrasts between the pairs of patterns. For example, in order to give numerical
assessment of color changing and staining two sets of standard grey scales are used.

The ISO grey scales have two series of chips against which the change of
color of a specimen and that of staining of adjacent uncolored specimen can
visually assessed and rated on a 1-5 scale.

The gradation of grey tones in the scales are defined in N.B.S.(National

Bureau of Standards) unites, one unit being defined as the smallest difference in
depth which is of commercial significance.

30
 Picture: Grey Scale

The difference in depth in shade i.e. the differences in NBS units are spaced
geometrically. Here is eh chart showing difference in color in N.B.S units and
corresponding fastness rating-

Color difference in N.B.S units Fastness rating

0 5
4 4
8 3
16 2
32 1

Two sets of standard grey scales are used to assess color fastness.

1. One for assessing change in color.

2. Other for staining.

31
1. Color change grey scale:

These scales consist of five pairs of grey colored material numbered from 1 to 5.
Number 5 has two identical greys, number 1 shows the greatest contrast of two
greys, and 2, 3, and 4 have intermediate contrast. After appropriate treatment the
specimen is compared with the original and treatment material and any loss in color
is graded with reference to the grey scale. When there is no change in the color of a
test specimen it would be classified as ‘5’; if there is a change it is then classified
with the number of the scale that shows the same contrast as that between the
treated and untreated specimens.

2. Degree of Staining Grey Scale:

A different set of grey scale is used for measuring staining. Fastness fating 5
shows by two identical white samples (that is no staining) and rating 1 shows a
white and a grey sample. The other numbers show the geometrical steps of contrast
between white and a series of greys. A piece of unstained, undyed cloth is
compared with the treated one that has been in contact with the test specimen
during the staining test and a numerical assessment of staining is given.
Note: These grey scales also consist another four intermediate grades (1-2, 2-3, 3-4,
and 4-5).

Brief description of the normal fastness grades:

32
Fastness Grade Shade change of Fastness white Staining of
tested sample sample Adjacent

Grade-5 No change Excellent No staining

Grade-4 Slight loss in depth Good Very slight

staining

Grade-3 Appreciable loss Fair Moderate staining

Grade-2 Significant loss Poor Significant staining

Grade-1 Great loss in depth Very poor Deep staining

The determination of fastness properties can now be based

on the quantitative measurement of color change in shade and
examination based on comparison of the degree of contrast with a
Grey Scale can result in variations in assessment among different
observers. [CIELAB or CMC color difference can determine the
fastness grade from E values of the ISO colorimetric
standardization of the Grey Scale for color change and staining.]

╬► Relation between CIELAB color differences for fading and

staining and the grey scale fastness grades:

33
CIELAB color difference Color Fastness Grade CIELAB Difference for
Color Fading for Staining

<0.40 5 <1.10

0.40-1.25 4-5 1.10-3.25

1.25-2.10 4 3.25-5.15

2.10-2.95 3-4 5.15-7.25

2.95-4.10 3 7.25-10.25

4.10-5.80 2-3 10.25-14.45

5.80-8.20 2 14.45-20.45

8.20-11.60 1-2 20.45-29.05

>11.60 1 >29.05

34
Colorfastness to Washing (ISO System):

35
 The resistance to the loss of color of any dyed or printed material to washing
is referred to as its wash fastness. If dye molecules have not penetrated inside the
inter polymer chain space of fiber or have not attached to the fiber with strong
attractive force, poor wash fastness result.

Fastness to washing is one of the important dyeing properties to the

consumers. There is a variety of testing procedure to some extant, these have arisen
because:

1. Washing conditions vary from one country to another.

2. The method depends upon the use of the material being
used.
3. To evaluate repeated washing, accelerated test methods
are used.

╬► The degree of fading and staining of a dyeing for washing

depends upon the following factors:

1. The temperature: this may range from 20 to as high as 950 C.

2. The type and amount of detergent that is added to the washing bath. This
may or may not include alkalis, phosphate, silicate, optical brightener,
chlorine or peroxide bleach. In many testing procedures a standard detergent
formulation is required.
3. The extent of mechanical action which can be varied by changing the
agitation speed in a washing machine or by adding steel ball to revolving the
bath.
4. The washing liquor to goods ratio and the hardness of the washing water.
5. The rinsing, drying or pressing methods used to restore the sample after the
test.

╬► Principle:

A specimen of the textile in contact with specified adjacent fabric or

fabrics is laundered, rinsed and dried. Specimens are laundered under
appropriate conditions of temperature, alkalinity, bleaching and abrasive action

36
 such that the result is obtained in a conveniently short time. The abrasive action
is accomplished by the use of a low liquor ratio and an appropriate number of
steel balls. The change in color of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent
fabric are assessed by recommended Grey Scales.

╬► Apparatus and Materials:

→ Wash-wheel with a thermostatically controlled water bath and rotating speed

of
40±2 rpm.
→Stainless steel container (capacity 55±50 ml).
→Stainless steel ball (diameter = 0.6cm, Wt. =1 gm)
→ SDC (Society of Dyers and Colorist) Multi-Fiber Fabric (DW: Acetate, Cotton,
Nylon, Polyester Acrylic, Wool; for 400C, 500C and certain test at 600C.
TV: triacetate, Cotton, Nylon, Polyester, Acrylic, Viscose; for
certain test at 600C
and all test at 700 C and 950C).
→Non-dyeable fabric (e.g. polypropylene).
→Thermometer (0-100 C). 0

→Sewing machine.
→ Dryer.
→ISO type Grey Scale for Changing.
→ ISO type Grey Scale for Staining.
→Color Matching Cabinet (Light Box).

╬► Reagents:

→ECE Reference Detergent (without optical brightener) for all countries where
per
borates are used in laundering.

37
→Sodium carbonate/ sodium per borate tetra hydrate.
→ Distilled / De-ionized water (Grade-3).
→Sodium hypochlorite.
→Acetic acid.

╬► Test specimen
a. if the textile to be tested is fabric: cut out a specimen of 10cm
x 4cm and make sure all colors are included(if necessary use
additional specimens) in it. Sew it along all four edges with
the same size of multi-fiber fabric. This is the composite test
specimen.
b. If the textile to be tested is yarn or loose fiber: take a mass of
yarn or fiber approximately equal to one-half of the
combined mass of the adjace4nt fabrics, then place between a
10cm x 4cm piece of multi-fiber fabric and a piece of 10cm x
4cm non-dyeable fabric and sew them along all four sides.
This is the composite test specimen.

For test Method 1, 2 &3

If the first piece be the second piece must be

Cotton Wool
wool cotton
silk wool
linen wool
Viscose wool
Cellulose Acetate viscose
Polyamide viscose or cotton
Polyester wool or cotton
Acrylic wool or cotton

For test Method 4 & 5

If the first piece be the second piece must be

Cotton viscose
Linen viscose
Viscose cotton

38
 Cellulose acetate(triacetate only) viscose
Polyamide viscose or cotton
Polyester viscose or cotton
Acrylic viscose or cotton

╬► Test Procedure (commercial laundering):

I.S.O. Recommendation No. 1 (ISO 105 C01):

The composite specimen is treated in a wash wheel or an equivalent

apparatus at 40º±2 º C for 30 minutes, using the ECE color fastness test
detergent 77(ISO std. soap)5 gm/liter to give a liquor ratio of 50:1.

I.S.O. Recommendation No. 2 (ISO 105 C02):

The composite specimen is treated in a wash wheel or an equivalent

apparatus for 45 minutes at 50º± 2 º C, using the ECE color fastness test
detergent 77(ISO std. soap)5 gm/liter to give a liquor ratio of 50:1.

I.S.O. Recommendation No. 3 (ISO 105 C03):

The composite sample is then treated in a wash wheel or equivalent

apparatus at 60º ±2 º C for 30 minutes using the ECE color fastness test
detergent 77(ISO std. soap)5 gm/liter and 2 gm/liter Soda Ash to give a liquor
ratio of 50:1.

I.S.O. Recommendation No. 4 (ISO 105 C04):

The composite sample is then treated in a wash wheel or equivalent

apparatus at 95º ±2 º C for 30 minutes using the ECE color fastness test
detergent 77(ISO std. soap) 5 gm/liter and 2 gm/liter Soda Ash with 10 steel ball
to give a liquor ratio of 50:1.

L.S.O. Recommendation No. 5 S (ISO 105 C05):

The composite sample is then treated in a wash wheel or equivalent

apparatus at 95º ±2 º C for 4 hours using the ECE color fastness test detergent

39
 77(ISO std. soap) 5 gm/liter and 2 gm/liter Soda Ash with 10 steel ball to give a
liquor ratio of 50:1.

Fig: Gyrowash Machine

Fig: Light Chamber of Light box

╬► The reagents and material are taken in a wash wheel and the
recipes are as bellow-

40
Test method Temp(0C) Time M:L Ratio Steel balls Reagents

ISO-1 400±20C 30 min 1:50 0 Only soap (5 gm/lit)

ISO-2 500±20C 30 min 1:50 0 Only soap (5 gm/lit)

ISO-3 600±20C 30 min 1:50 0 Soap (5 gm/lit) +

Anhydrous Sodium
carbonate (2gm/L)
ISO-4 950±20C 30 min 1:50 10 Soap (5 gm/lit) +
Anhydrous Sodium
carbonate (2gm/L)
ISO-5 950±20C 4 hours 1:50 10 Soap (5 gm/lit) +
Anhydrous Sodium
carbonate (2gm/L)

╬► Washing solution preparation:

After preparing the sample for washing it is impregnated in the following

parameters:

High grade soap solution (containing-

Free alkali calculated as Na2CO3=0.3% 5gm/lit

Free alkali calculated as NaOH=0.1%)

OR
In case of commercially available,

ISO Reference Detergent

╬► Test procedure (based on ISO 105 C06, domestic laundering):

→ Dissolve 4g of detergent into 1 liter of water.
→ For test where PH value is specified (Table-2), add approximately 1g of sodium
carbonate per liter of solution and cooled down the temperature to 200C before
measuring PH.

41
→ For tests where perborate is employed, prepare the washing solution containing
perborate (according to Table-2) at the time of use by heating the liquor to
maximum of 600C for not more than 30 minute.
→ For tests where sodium hypochlorite is employed (D3S and D3M), add to the
wash liquor sufficient amount of sodium hypochlorite to provide the required
concentration of available chlorine.
→ For all test, except those at 700C and above with sodium perborate (D2S and
E2S), preheat wash liquor to the specified temperature and add to each container the
specific volume of wash liquor together with the correct number of steel balls
required. Check whether the temperature of wash liquor in the container is correct.
If not adjust it by using water bath or put into the machine to run for a few minutes.
Then add to each contains one composite specimen.

→ For tests D2S and E2S with sodium perborate, preheat wash liquor to 600C only
and then raise the temperature during washing to 700C ±20C or the specified
temperature within10 minutes. The wash time in table-2 commences when the
specified temperature is reached.

→ For all tests, remove specimen at the end of the wash and rinse twice for 1
minute in two separate 100ml of water at 400C.
→ If souring is required, treat each specimen in a 100ml of acetic acid (0.2 g/l) for
1 minute at 300C. Then rinse each specimen in 100ml portion of water at 300C.

→ Extract excess water from specimen with white tissue paper or by squeezing.
→ Dry the specimen:
(a) Hang dry specimen in air at a temperature no exceeding
600C.
(b) For specimen with bad color fastness property, dry
specimen and adjacent fabric separately and then lay flat on
tissue paper in the open air below 600C to prevent bleeding.

or

Colorfastness to Washing
(Home and Commercial Laundering Accelerated)

42
 (Test method: AATCC 61-1996, Partly equivalent to ISO 105-C06)

1. Purpose and Scope

The color loss of dyed fabric or changes it's surface color for the action of
detergent solution and abrasion of five hand, home or commercial launderings, with
or without chorine, are roughly approximated by one 45-minute test.

2. Principle
Specimens are tested under appropriate conditions of temperature, detergent
solution, bleaching and abrasive action, result the changes of color and staining of
color to undyed adjacent material occurred which are evaluated by reference
standard scales.

3. Apparatus, Reagents and Materials

3.1 Launder Ometer, Wash wheel (Laundering machine, hold stainless
steel container: 500 ml for test no. 1A and 1200 ml for test no.2A,
3A, 4A & 5A).
3.2 Stainless steel balls.
3.3 AATCC type Gray scales for color change and staining or AATCC
Chromatic Transference Scale for staining.
3.4 Undyed Adjacent Fabrics.
3.4.1 Multifiber fabric No:1: (Contains bands of acetate. cotton, nylon, silk,
viscose, rayon and wool) can be used for specimen containing silk or viscose.
3.4.2 Multifiber No. 10 or 10A: (Contains bands of acetate. cotton, nylon, silk,
viscose, rayon and wool) can be used for test no. 1A, 2A.
3.4.3 Bleached cotton test fabric, 32 ends/cm × 32 picks/cm construction, 136 ± 10
g/m2, desized without fluorescent whitening agent, can be used for test
No.3A,
3.4.4 Size: 5cm × 5cm for Multifiber no. 1 and 10 and bleached cotton, 5cm ×
10cm for Multifiber no. 10A. Since the staining is not determined for tests 4A
and 5A, adjacent fabric is not required.
3.5 Detergent:
3.5.1 AATCC 1993 Reference Standard Detergent WOB (without fluorescent
whitening agent and without phosphat).
3.5.2 AATCC 1993 Reference Standard Detergent WOB (without fluorescent
whitening agent).

43
3.6 Water, distilled or demonized.
3.7 Sodium hypochlorite (NaOC1 bleach).
3.8 Sodium carbonate (Na2CO3).

4. Test Specimens
4.1 The sizes of test specimen: 10.0cm × 5.0cm for Test no.1A and 15.0 cm ×
5.0 cm for Test no. 2A, 3A. 4A and 5A.
4.2 To determine the staining in Test no. 1A, and 2A, use Multifiber test fabric,
To determine the staining in Test no. 3A, use either Multifiber fabric or
Bleached cotton test fabric. With respect to test no. 3A, the use of Multifiber
is optional but the staining of acetate, nylon, polyester and acrylic is
overlooked unless one of these fibres is present in the fabric being tested or
known to be in the final garment. For test 3A, Multifiber test fabric with heat-
sealed edges is recommended. Staining is not determined in test no. 4A and
5A.

4.3 If textile to be tested is fabric:

4.3.1 Zize: 10cm × 5cm for 1A, 15cm × 5cm for other tests (Test no. 2A, 3A, 4A
and 5A).
4.3.2 If fabric has more than one color, make sure all colors are included in the
specimen. If the colors are widely separated, more than one specimen must be
produced.
4.3.3 If fabric consists of dark and light colors, additional specimen containing both
dark and light potions must be produced for assessing cross staining. In such
case, no adjacent fabrics are needed.
4.3.4 Overlock four edges of specimen except for fine gauge knitted fabric.
4.3.5 Attach by sewn or stapled a suitable undyed adjacent fabric as follows:
(a) Multifiber No 1 and 10: Sew to the test specimen alone one 5cm
edge and in contact with the face of the specimen. The fibre
stripes should be parallel to the length of the test specimen with
wool on the right.
(b) Bleached Cotton: Sew to the test specimen alone one 5cm
edge

44
 and in contact with the face of the specimen.
(c) Multifiber 10A: Sew the 10cm × 5cm rectangle Multifiber test
fabric to the test specimen alone on 10cm and in contact with
face of the specimen. The fibre stripes should be parallel to the
widthwise direction of the test specimen.
4.3.6 It is recommended for knitted fabrics that they should be sewn or
stapled at all four edges to a similar sized piece of bleached cotton test fabric
to avoid the risk of rolled edges and to give a uniform result over the entire
surface area.

4.4 If textile to be tested is yarn:

4.4.1 Wind two 120yds skeins of esch colored yarn. Fold the skein
uniformly to meet the required size (mentioned before). Sew or
stapled crockmeter test cloth squares or bleached cotton test fabric.
Attach a Multifiber test fabric (as in 4.3.5).

4.5 If textile to be tested is in pile fabric form:

4.5.1 Cut the specimen with a lay direction as described in 4.1
4.5.2 Overlock four edges if necessary to prevent fraying.
4.5.3 Attach the Multifber fabric to (refer to 4.3.5) the specimen with the
pile lay direction pointing away from the top of the specimen.

5. Test Procedure
5.1 Adjust the launder-ometer to maintain the designated water bath
temperature and prepare the wash liquor as described in the table. Preheat this
solution to the prescribed temperature.
5.2 Secure the appropriate containers into the launder - ometer.
5.3 For all tests place the appropriate number of steel balls into the
container (see Table-1) and for tests 1A. 2A and 3A. Add the
designated amount of detergent solution (see Table-1).
5.4 For test 4A, add 45 ml of detergent solution and 5ml of 0.15%
available chlorine solution (see footnote).
5.6 Clamp on the covers and run the machine for at least 2mins to pre-
heat the containers.
5.7 Stop the machine with a row of containers upright. Unclamp and
remove the lid of one container. Place a well-crumpled specimen
into the solution and replace the lid but do not clamp it. Repeat this
procedure with the other containers in the row and them clamp the

45
 lids in the order of loading (this delay in clamping is to allow
equalization of pressure).
5.8 Repeat 5.7 with the remaining rows of containers (while the lids are
off randomly check the temp of the detergent solution and if found
incorrect repeat the pre-heating without specimens in the
containers).
5.9 When all containers are loaded, start the machine and run for 45
mins.
5.10 Stop the machine, remove the containers and empty the contents
into separate beakers. Rinse each test specimen three times in
distilled or demonized water at 40 ± 30 C for one min periods with
occasional stirring or hand squeezing.
5.11 Extract excess water and dry the specimen in air at not more than
710C.
5.12 Condition the specimen at 65 ± 2% Rh and 21 ±10C for one hour
before evaluating.

Table -1 (Test Conditions):

Temperature Total liquol Percent A vailable No.of
Test Time
volume detergent of chlorine of steel
No. 0C 0
F
(ml) total volum e balls
(min)
total volum e
1A 40 105 200 0.37 None 10 45
2A 49 120 150 0.15 None 50 45
3A 71 160 50 0.15 None 100 45
4A 71 160 50 0.15 0.015% 100 45
5A 49 120 150 0.15 0.027% 50 45
6. Evaluation:
6.1 Evaluate the color change in the specimen against the AATCC
Changing Gray Scale under standard lighting, D65 (Artificial Daylight).
6.2 Evaluate the staining of color to adjacent fabric (when applicable)
against the AATCC Staining Gray Scale or AATCC Chromatic
Transference Scale under standard lighting(D65, Artificial
Daylight)

7. Test Report:
7.1 Report the test number.

46
7.2 Report the grade given given for each specimen on color change
and staining to the Multifber or bleached cotton fabrics, as
applicable.
7.3 Report whether WOB or 124 detergent was used.
7.4 State which scale (Gray scale for staining or AATCC chromatic
Transference) was used in evaluating staining.
7.5 State which Multifiber fabric was used and if the cotton fabric was
employed to avoid knits curling.
Note: Standardization of Stock Sodium Hypochlorite Solution.
Pipette 1. oml of stock sodium hypochlorite solution into 250ml flask
and dilute to 100ml with distilled water add 20ml of 0.6N H2SO4 and
6ml of 12% KI. Titrate with 0.1N sodium thiosulfate solution until the
yellow colour of iodine is nearly destroyed. add 1ml of 1% starch
solution and continue to titrate until the blue colour entirely disappear.

Calculation

% available chlorine ml Na2S2O3 × 0.1N × 0.0355

1.0 ml × Specific gravity of NaOC1 solution

FORMAT FOR REPORTING

Typical example:
Sl. # Description of Test Test Result

47
 1. Colorfastness To Washing
Method Followed : AATCC 61-1996
Test 1A, 45 min. Mechanical wash at
400C With 0.37% AATCC WOB
detergent solution with 10 steel balls
Grade
Color Change in Shade 3-4
Staining on Acetate 4
Cotton 4
` Polyamide 4
Polyester 4
Acrylic 4
Wool 4

** Interoperation of Grade:
5---Excellence
4—Good
3—Fair
2—poor
1—Very poor.

** Range of Testing/Limit of Detection: 1to 5 Grade

** Accuracy (+/-)

48
Colorfastness to Light

49
 Introduction:

Nowadays the criterion of light fastness is a major concern

amongst the dyers.
The stringent requirement of light fastness is getting more and
more importance in the European as well as in the American
market. It is very much essential to understand the different test
methods, grading and factors affecting light fastness.
Generally it is difficult to achieve good grade of light fastness
in light, medium, tricky shades viz., khaki, olive, grey, browns
etc. A proper combination always helps to arrive at the customer
requirement.

Generally two methods of testing are widely accepted by most

of the customers. They are:
American Test Method (AATCC 16E) or Option 3
British Test Method (ISO 105/BO2)

╬► S o m e m o r e p o i n t s t h a t af f e c t t h e f a s t n e s s o f a
printed fabric:

The fastness to light of a print is not governed solely by the

colorant. It is also very dependent on the colorant
concentration, the thickness of the layer and the binder; other
factors such as the spectral composition of the incident light
and the atmospheric humidity also play a role. Consequently, it
is very difficult to exactly quantify fastness to light. The values
are merely given as a guide to formulators in carrying out their
own tests.

AMERICAN TEST METHOD (AATCC 16E):

This is an accelerated test method for testing of light fastness.

There are different options in this method which are A, B, C, D,

50
E, F, G, H, I, J. These options differ from each other on the
basis of light source, panel temperature and humidity. Generally
AATCC 16E method is widely used for testing purpose. In this
method a test specimen is exposed under the condition specified
in various test methods for 20hours, 40 hours or 60 hours and
the factors affecting light fastness.
Generally for garment sector the assessment of light fastness is
done after 20AFU where as in the case of furnishing fabrics, car
upholstery the grading is assessed after 40-60 AFU.

Grading:

Grading of light fastness in this method is given on the basis of

grey scale with rating of 1-5. One being poor and the five being
the best.
Rating 3 is normally acceptable for most of the requirements.

Blue wool reference standard

BRITISH TEST METHOD (ISO 105/BO2)

51
The light fastness of dyed fabric is evaluated by exposing the
fabric samples to xenon ARC. Even though the light sources are
same, other conditions are different.

Grading:

The fastness to light is tested in accordance with DIN 16525.

The degree of fading is assessed by comparison with the blue
scale for wool (DIN EN ISO 105-B01). The fastnesses to light
ratings are as follows:

Rating Property 1 very poor 2 poor 3 moderate 4 fairly good 5

good 6 very good 7 excellent 8 outstanding
There is no direct relation between the ratings of both the above
methods. AATCC 16E (option 3) method (20AFU) is a quick
method, while ISO 105/BO2 method takes much longer time
where light fastness ratings are high.

** Blue wool reference standard Description

of the Light Fastness Grades :

Fastness Grade Degree of Fading Light Fastness

Grade-8 Grade- 7 None Verv. veryslight Slight Outstanding
Grade-6 Grade-5 Moderate Excellent Very
Good Good

Grade-4 Grade-3 Appreciable Significant Moderate Fair

Grade-2 Extensive Poor

Grade- 1 Verv extensive Very Poor
Note- Light source may use-1) Day light
2) Xenon Arc B02
3) Mercury-tungsten fluorescent lamp (MBTF) etc

52
 Colorfastness to Perspiration
(Test Method: AATCC 15 - 1997; Similar to ISO 105-E04)

53
1. Purpose and Scope
This test method is intended for use in determining the
fastness of Colored textiles of fabrics, yarns or fibres to the
effects of human
Perspiration.

2. Principle
A textile colored specimen in contact with multifiber test
fabric is wet out in artificial perspiration solution under a fixed
pressure and Temperature. After conditioning the specimen is
evaluated for color change and color staining.

3. Apparatus and Materials

3.1 Perspiration Tester (Perspirometer or equivalent device with glass
or plastic plates).
3.2 Electrical oven, thermostatically controlled (Drying incubator).
3.3 L-Histamine mono-hydrochloride monohydrate.
3.4 Sodium chloride (NaC1).
3.5 Di-sodium Hydrogen phosphate (Na2HPO4)
3.6 Lactic acid.
3.7 AATCC Gray Scale for color change and staining.
3.8 Multifiber fabric no.10.
3.9 pH Meter.
3.10 Electronic balance.
3.11 White AATCC blotting paper.
3.12 Multifiber test fabric.

4. Reagent

54
 Take 1000 ml volumetric flask and fillup half - full with
distilled water Dissolve clearly the required chemicals and then
add extra water to make it 1000 ml solution.

Acid perspiration solution Amount

Sodium Chloride (NaC1) 10 ± 0.01 gm
Lactic acid, USP (United States Pharmacopoeia) 85% 1 ± 0.01 gm
Disodium hydrogen phosphate, anyhydrous (Na2HPO4) 1 ± 0.01 gm
1-Histidine monohydrochloride 0.25 ± 0.001 gm
Distilled water 1000 ml
pH value (use pH meter) 4.3 ± 0.2

Note: Don't be use the perspiration solution of more than three days old.

5. Test Specimen
Cut specimens of 6 × 6 ± 2cm from the sample and equal
size of multifiber test fabric, and sew together these. If the
fibers in the dyed fabric, are not present in the multifiber test
fabric, include a undyed original fabric with the specimen and
multifiber test fabric like a sandwich assembly; colored specimen
place between multifiber test fabric and undyed original fabric.

6. T e s t P r o c e d u r e
6 . 1 P l a c e t h e t e s t s p e c i m e n i n a p e t r i - d i s h . A d d f r es h l y p r e p a r e d

55
 Perspiration solution to a depth of 1.5 cm in one petri - dish.
6.2 Keep it for 30 minutes at room temperature.
6.3 Occasionally agitate and squeeze to ensure that the specimen
is soaked completely.
6.4 After 30 minutes take out the specimens and squeeze those to
remove the excess solution so that the weight of the sample with
multifiber should be 2.25 ± 0.05 times of it's original weight.
Place it between two plastic plates.
6.5 Lock the specimen unit containing the specimen with a set
screw under a pressure of 4.5 kg (including the top plate).
6.6 Put the perspiration tester into an oven at 38 + 10C for 6 hrs.
6.7 After 6 hours remove the perspiration tester from the oven and
take out the specimens with multitiber fabric.
6.8 Dry the test fabric and multifiber fabric separately on a wire
screen in an atmosphere of 21 ± 10C and Rh 65 ± 5%

7. Evaluation
7.1 Assess the changes in color and straining in the Multifber of each specimen with
Gray Scale.
Gary scale for color change AATCC Evaluation procedure 1
Gray Scale for assessing staining AATCC Evaluation
Procedure 2

8. Test Report
Numerical rating for color change and staining of multifiber be assessed.

56
 FORMAT FOR REPORTING
Typical Example:
Sl. # Description of Test Test Result
Color Fastness to perspiration
1.
Method Followed : AATCC 15: 1997
Grade
Color Change in Shade 4
Staining on Acetate 4–5
Cotton 4–5
Polyamide 4–5
Polyester 4–5
Acrylic 4–5
Wool 4–5

Interpretation of Grade:
Gray Scale rating is based on scale 1 to 5, where 5 is good and 1 is bad.
Range of Testing /Limit of Detection: 1 of 5 Grade
Accuracy (±) : 0.5 Grade

57
Perspiration Test Equipment

Perspiration Test Equipment

58
 Colorfastness to Perspiration
(Test Method: ISO 105 E04:1994,BS EN ISO 105 E04:1996)

1. Principle
The garments which--come into contact with the body-where
perspiration is heavy may suffer serious local discoloration.
This test is intended to determine the resistance of color of dyed
textiles to the action of acid and alkali perspiration.

2. Apparatus and Material

21 Perspiration tester; Perspirometer or equivalent device.
2.2 Oven, maintained at 37 ± 2°C, or equivalent device.
2.3 Multifibre test fabric.
2.4 Grey Scale for color changing.
2.5 Grey Scale for color staining.
2.6 Standard lighting chamber.
2.7 Acid and alkaline solution.
2 8Non-dyeable fabric (eg. Polypropylene).
2.9 Glassier acrylic plates.

3. Test Specimen
3.1 If the textile to be tested is fabric:
3.1.1 Cut two identical 10cm x 4cm specimens. If the fabric
sample is multi-colored take as many specimens as
necessary to ensure that all colors will be in contact with
each of the six fibre bands of the multifibre adjacent
fabric.
3.1.2 Attach the multifibre adjacent fabric of equal size to the
test specimens by sewing along one of the shorter sides
with the multifibre fabric in contact with face of the
specimens. This is the composite test specimen.

3.2 If the textile to be tested is yarns or loose fibre:

3.2.1 Take two identical masses of yarn or loose fibre
approximately equal to one half of the combined mass of the
adjacent fabric.
3.2.2 Place each specimen between a 10cm x 4cm piece of
multifibre fabric and a 10cm x 4cm piece of non-dyeable
f a b r i c a n d s ew t h e m a l o n g a l l f o u r s i d e s t o f o r m c o m p o s i t e
test.

59
60
 Colorfastness to Rubbing

Rubbing fastness:

Reactive dyes being water soluble it is difficult to achieve the

same level of wet rubbing ratings as compared to insoluble
dyestuff and also dry rubbing. With water soluble dyes, apart
from the bleeding of the dyestuff from the rubbed area, finely
distributed substrate particles also rub off on the surface of
crock meter cloth.
The problem is increasing with higher depths and fabrics like
towels, corduroy etc. with rough surface. While evaluating the
rating it is necessary to 9gnore such rub-off particles appearing
on the crock meter cloth and consider only the staining of the
dye on the rubbed cloth.

Instrument used for checking is the standard crock meter.

However, test is quite sensitive and for getting consistent
result, it is necessary to use standard crock meter cloth,
maintain uniform pressure for applying rubbing strokes and
number of strokes. Besides, for wet rubbing, % moisture on the
crock-cloth has to be kept to uniform level. For ISO-105 x 12
test methods, rubbing cloth that has been wetted with water has
to be squeezed to contain its own weight of water. For AATCC
116-1995 methods, wet pick up is to be maintained between 65 ±
5% by squeezing the wet crock meter cloth using a AATCC
blotting paper. Any variation in the moisture content can lead to
deviation in the rating. With high amount of moisture i.e.., wet
pick up, ratings will be lower. Degree of staining is visually
assessed using Grey scale for change of colour with grade of 1-5
where rating of 5 signifies negligible change and 1 maximum
change.

In order to get maximum achievable wet rubbing rating, with

reactive dyes, it is absolutely necessary to remove all unfixed
hydrolyzed dyes by proper soaping/washing of the sample before
evaluating the ratings. Extraction with pyridine can be done to
check the removal of hydrolyzed dyestuff.

61
 Effect of depth of shade/selection of Dyes:

For reactive dyes with high solubility and good washing

fastness properties, rating will be relatively higher. However, in
deep shades, even with dyes with good washing fastness, a
fastness rating of 2-3 on the grey scale is achievable and is
considered satisfactory and acceptable. The liquid introduced
with the wet crocking cloth results in all cases in deterioration
in rub fastness of up to 2 points in comparison to dry rubbing.

Effect of Mercerizing:

The color transfer is relatively less, for the mercerized cotton

and the rubbing fastness grade is higher. Due to change in the
fiber structure on mercerizing, there is a 30% less extent of
removal of fiber particles, during wet rubbing and lesser amount
of color on the fibre for the same visual depth of shade.

Effect of finishing treatments:

Different types of finishing treatment viz. softness,

polysiloxanes, Zr-compounds, fluorocarbon, chitosan and
cellulose enzymes etc. applied to dyes, fabrics do not show
improvements in wet rubbing ratings. With some of the cross
linking agents, rubbing fastness grade is lowered by 1/2 to 1
unit. In one of the recent study it is claimed that for reactive
dyed blacks and Bordeaux materials, with polyacrylate finishes
there is some improvement in the wet rubbing fastness rating.

62
 Colorfastness to Rubbing
(Except pile fabric)
(Test Method: ISO 105x12, 1993; bs en iso 105 x 12, 1995)

• Principle :

This test is designed to determine the degree of color which

may be transferred from the surface of a color textile to a
specific rubbing test cloth for rubbing (dry or wet).

2. Equipment
2.1 Suitable Crock meter
2.2 Cotton Rubbing Cloth (desized, bleached, without finish).
2.3 Gray Scale for Staining
2.4 Stopwatch.
2.5 Standard Lighting Chamber.

Test Specimen:

3.1 If the textiles to be tested is fabric: Two pieces not less

than 14cm x 5cm are required for dry rubbing and two for
wet rubbing. One specimen of each pair shall have the long
direction parallel to the warp yarns or wales and the other
parallel to the weft yarns or courses.

3.2 If t h e t e x t i l e s t o b e t e s t e d a r e y a r n o r t h r e a d :

K n i t i t into Fabric to provide specimen at lea I 14cm x 5cm or form a layer of

parallel strands by wrapping it lengthways on a cardboard rectangle of similar
dimensions.

63
 4. Te s t Pr oc e dur e :
4. 1 Dr y r ubbi ng t e s t :
4.1.1 Lock the test specimen onto the base of the crock meter so
that it lies flat and taut for testing. The length or width
direction of the test specimen should be parallel to the
direction in which the rubbing is to be conducted.
4. 1, 2 Using the spiral spring clip, set a 5cm x 5cm square of the
white, cotton rubbing test cloth to the finger (peg) of the
crock meter. The weave of the test cloth should be parallel to
the direction of rubbing (i.e. angular deflection should be
avoided).
4. 1 .3 Lower the covered finger onto the test sample.
4.1.4Turn the hand cranks and makes ten complete turns of the
crank, at the rate of one turn per second (lOxlOs). May use a
s t o pw a t c h t o v e r i f y t h e r a t e o f h a n d c r a n k i n g .
4. 1.5 Remove the white rubbing test cloth from the finger and
e v a l u a t e c o l o r t r a n s f e r us i n g t h e g r a y s c a l e f o r s t a i n i n g u n d e r
s t a n d a r d l i g h t i n g , D 6 5 (A r t i f i c i a l D a y l i g h t ) .
4. 1 .6 One test is done to warp/ wales direction and another for
weft' course direction.

Rubbing test machine

64
4.2 Wet rubbing test:
4.2.1 Repeat procedure from 4.1.1 to 4.1.6 on another sample with the white
cotton test cloth wetted in distilled water. Ensure that the rubbing test cloth
will be \\etted with water to 100% take up (i.e. 1 gms fabric is increased to 2.0
gms of fabric).
4.2.2 Air dries the cotton test cloth at the room temperature before evaluation.
5. Compare she contrast between the untreated and treated white rubbing cloth with
the staining Grey Scale and rate from 1 to 5 and changing in the tested specimen with
changing Grey Scale. This visual assessment is done in a color matching cabinet
under standard lighting, D65 (Artificial Daylight).
6. Test Report
1. for dry rub test:
(I) One rating (1-5) for warp/ Wales direction.
(II) Another (1-5) for weft/ Course direction. 2. for wet rub test:
(I) One rating (1-5) for warp/ Wales direction.
(II) Another (1-5) for weft/ Course direction.

FORMAT FOR REPORTING

FORMAT FOR REPORTING

Typical example :
SI. # Description of Test Test Result

1. Colourfastness To Rubbing
Method Followed: ISO 105 X 12 : 1993 '

Staining Lengthwise Widthwise " Avg. Grade

Dry 4-5 4-5 4-5
Wet 4 4 4

Interpretation of Grade: (5) Excellent (4) Good (3) Fair (2) Poor (1) Very Poor.
Range of Testing / Limit of Detection : 1 to 5 Grade
Accuracy ( ± ) : 0.5 Grade

65
66
 Colorfastness to Pilling
Pilling test method – I (Marks & Spencer)

╬► PURPOSE:
To assure the assistance of woven shirting and sheeting fabrics to
pilling.

╬► Apparatus:
1. Martindale Abrasion machine
2. Felt (See note 1 and 2 and equipment. /default Ref 13D)
3. Polyester foam (See note 2 and equipment. /default 13E)
4. Pilliscope
5. Photographic standards.

╬► Test Specimens:
Avoid fabric within 50 mm of the selvedge. Take a specimen of
sufficient size to cut four150mm squares and four circles 38mm
diameter. Wash as described in Method of Test P16 (Washing
prior to Pilling Methods I & II)

╬► Method:
1. Place one test specimen circle face down in the base of each
sample holder. Cover each specimen with a circle of polyester
foam 38mm in diameter (see note 2). Place on top of the foam the
interior metal specimen support and assemble the top and base of
the specimen.
2. Place a 150 mm circle/square of felt on each of the base plates
(see note 1).
3. Place one 150 mm square of the washed fabric over each of the
squares of felt. Ensure the fabric has an even tension by using
the tensioning weight (provided with the machine). Secure the
fabric in position with the retaining frame and remove the
tensioning weight.
4. Secure four specimen holders on the top plate using the metal
spindles so that the fabric face of each of the specimen is in

67
contact with the fabric on its respective base plate. DO NOT USE
ADDITIONAL WEIGHTS.
5. Run the machine for
a. Men's and boys shirting's 100 Revolutions
b. Sheeting 400 Revolutions

Pilling test machine

╬► Results:

Mount the four test samples on card against unwashed fabric and
view on the Pilliscope comparing against Marks & Spencer
Photographs standard copy.
Report the average of the four results to the nearest ½ grade.

Notes:
1. Felt used in the test should be of mass per unit area 576+/- 50
grams/metre2 and 3 +/- 0.5m.m thick. The felt should be renewed
after every 100 hours of test or if it’s found to be too much
soiled. The felt should be retensioned for every 5000 revolutions
during the running period.
2. Use white polyester foam complying with the following
specification as determined by BS4443 for flexible Cellular
foams:-
Density 29.31 kg/m2
Indentation hardness 170-120N
Thickness 3+/- 1 mm

68
 The foam should be stored in the dark. A new foam piece
should be used for each test.

Pilling test method – II (Marks & Spencer)

╬► PURPOSE:
To evaluate the potential of fabric to pill.

╬► Apparatus:
1. I.C.I. pill box (speed 60 rpm +/- 2 rpm) with standard cork as
specified in BS5811: 1986.
2. Molded Polyurethane pilling tubes.
3. Specimen mounting jig (see Equipment List Ref 13O
And note 2).
4. Photographic standards, woven or knitted as applicable.
5. Marks & Spencer template for specimen preparation.
6. Lock or chain stitch sewing machine.
7. White PVC tape 19mm wide.
8. Pilliscope.
9. Soft brush.
10. Standard maintenance fabric.

╬► Test Specimen:
Fabrics for washable garments should be washed as described in
Method of Test P16 “Washing Prior to Pilling Methods I and
II”. If applicable record any changes that may occur during
washing, e g. fuzzing, matting, surface disturbance.
Using the template mark and cut four squares 125 mm x 125
mm. A sample approximately 190 mm x 60 mm should be kept
fpr use during assessment. Avoid fabric within 50 mm of the
selvedge. Mark the length direction of the fabric on the back of
each square to ensure accurate preparation and mounting of the
specimens. Where a fabric has no discernable face, test both
side.

69
╬► METHOD:

1. Prepare two length and two width specimens by folding in

half, ensuring the face is on the inside.
2. Sew a seam parallel to tie fold (12 mm from the dut edge) to
form a tube with an open seam.
3. Cut 10 mm from one end to make the samples 115mm long.
4. Turn the four specimens face outwards.
5. Mount the four specimens on to the polyurethane tubes. To
avoid unnecessary handling of the specimens always:
a) Collapse the tube onto the two pronged jig.
b) Push the metal sleeve over the tube.
c) Slide a specimen with the seam opened out and fixed onto the
sleeve.
d) Hold the specimen gently and remove the sleeve leaving the
specimen firmly mounted (not loose or tight) on the tube with an
equal amount of polyurethane protruding at each end.
e) Remove the tube from the jig.
6. To secure the specimen to the tube apply to each end a PVC
tape of sufficient length to wrap around one and a half times so
that 6 mm of polyurethane tube is visible at each end.
7. Clean out the pill box with a soft brush.
8. Place the set of four tubes on one pilling box.
9. Run the box for the required revolutions as specified un the
appropriate performance standard.
10. After testing, remove the specimens. Examine the inside of
the box and record the presence of any loose pills and fabric
debris.
11. Carefully remove the PVC tape.
12. Cut along the seam to remove the specimen from the tubes.
13. Trim the untested areas covered by the tape.

╬► A S S E S S M E N T :

1. Grading should be carried out in the dark room or curtained of

area.
2. Select the appropriate woven or knitted photographic
standards for use in the pilliscope.

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3. Grade each specimen in turn by placing in the pilliscope and
compare the degree of pilling against the standard photographs.
Record the grade.
4. Mount the graded specimens by stapling on to size A4 card.
Mount the strip of untested fabric across the card between the
two pairs of specimens.

Pilling Test Equipments-

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ICI-pilling test m/c

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 Conclusion:

There is large difference between the theoretical knowledge and

practical experiences. This is truer in case of the study of Textile
Technology. Industrial project is an essential part for textile education
because it minimizes the gap between theoretical and practical
knowledge. This project increases our thought a lot about textile
technology. It also helps us to know a lot about industrial testing, and
industrial management and made us suitable for industrial life. Besides
it gives us the first opportunity to work in industry. So we can say
industrial project prepare us for the expected destiny of practical life.

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Reference:

• ESSENTIAL WET TESTING IN TEXTILE

BY-MOHAMMAD FORHAD HOSSAIN,
First Edition, 2005.
Page: 7 to 29,63 to 75

• Dyeing and chemical technology of textile fibers

Wet processing technology IV
Essential wet testing in textile
Textile terms and Definitions

• Internet:
• http://www.thesmarttime.com/testing/testing-
procedures-18.htm
• http://textiletesting.blogspot.com/2009/07/marks-
spencer-pilling-test-method-1.html
• http://www.roaches.co.uk/quality-control.html
• http://www.ibais.edu/thesis.html
•

• M. M. Knitwear ltd

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