Dynamometer

Dynamometer
Summary
A dynamometer measures engine and/or drivetrain performance to assist in
improving efficient power transfer.
A dynamometer is a machine that measures the torque and power produced by

an engine. It applies various loads to an engine and is usually connected to a
computer that can analyze and calculate all the aspects of engine operation
measured.
Dynamometers are particularly useful in designing and refining engine
technology. They can help identify how an engine or its drive train need to be
modified or tuned to achieve more efficient power transfer.
There are two types of dynamometer:
Engine Dynamometer:
This type measures engine performance only and usually when the engine
is removed from the vehicle and mounted onto a special frame. It is
coupled directly to the engine flywheel and measures performance
independent of the vehicle's drive train such as its gearbox,
transmission, or differential.
Chassis Dynamometer:
This type measures the power from the engine through a vehicle's driven
wheels. The whole vehicle is mounted on rollers and fixed to the ground to
prevent it jumping when it is driven during testing. The vehicle is driven in
gear and turns the rollers without moving, while its power output is
measured.
Pressure testers
Summary
There are a range of pressure testers used in the automotive industry. Each of them are used to provide information about the potential
condition of various systems and components.
There are a range of pressure testers used in the automotive industry. Each of them is used to provide information about the potential condition
of various systems and components.
All gauges consist of a measurement scale from which a reading is taken. Depending on the type of fitting on the gauge, it is normally fitted to
the vehicle component via a pipe or tube. Instructions provided with the gauge will describe how to take a correct reading. These should include
the specific operational circumstances that the reading should be taken under, in order to interpret correctly the condition of the item being
tested.
Most gauges are designed to read "zero" at atmospheric pressure (14.7lbs/sq inch or 1 Bar at sea level) as a base measurement.
Some
types
and
applications:
Tire
pressure
gauges
1:
This type of gauge is the one most familiar to most people. Tire pressure gauges are normally part of a tire inflation device and are used to
ensure that the air pressure inside the vehicle tires is maintained at the recommended setting.
Tire
pressure
gauges
2:
Gauges that only measure, that is, they just check the pressure without being able to inflate as well, are also quite common. The illustration on
the left is an example of this type, known as a 'pencil-type' pressure gauge.
Vacuum
gauges:
These gauges are a particular type pressure gauge that measures "negative" pressure below atmospheric pressure. They are normally used to
determine an engine's general operational condition. Depending on the reading a number of engine faults can be identified.
Compression
gauges:
These gauges are used to measure the compression pressures inside an engine cylinder and can identify overall condition and pressure
leakage situations that could be caused by a range of engine faults.
Cooling
system
pressure
These are used to identify faults in cooling systems and components like pressure caps.
gauges:
Scan tools
Summary
Scan tools are used to run diagnostic tests on vehicles to obtain information on the probable cause of faults. They are able to communicated
with the on-board control computer fitted in a vehicle.
A scan tool is a device that is able to communicate with the on board control computer fitted in a vehicle. The scan tool is a software driven
device that contains information about the particular vehicle it is fitted to and communicates with the various on board systems to determine their
status and condition. A scan tool can be a standalone battery operated piece of specialized equipment, or it can be a device that links the
onboard computer system to a PC running 'on board diagnostic' software.
The automotive industry introduced 'on board diagnostics' standards OBD1 and OBD2. The original OBD1 specification did not have a standard
link connector, nor a standard data protocol, so the early on board diagnostic systems were highly proprietary to each manufacturer. The OBD2
specification standardized the connectors and the test signaling protocols, and also specified a common but extensible set of Diagnostic Trouble
Codes (DTCs). OBD2 started to become mandatory for all vehicles in 1996.
The scan tool connector is usually located in the front of the passenger compartment on the driver's side, so that the technician can operate the
scan tool and see any Malfunction Indicator Lights (MIL) that may be on the instrument panel at the same time. The scan tool displays the
Diagnostic Trouble Codes that have been stored by the vehicle's control system, and it can also carry out some diagnostic tests on vehicle
systems. The intention is to provide the technician with enough diagnostic information to be able to identify and rectify faults. When the faults
have been rectified, the scan tool can also reset or clear the DTCs.
Multimeters (DMM/DVOM)
Summary
Multimeters are electrical test tools and are used to diagnose problems in vehicle
electrical systems, however their use has been reduced with the advent of 'onboard' diagnostics and the use of scan tools.
Digital Multimeters (DMM) or Digital Volt Ohm Meters (DVOM) as they are also
commonly known are very widely used in the automotive industry, and are the
most generally useful testing tools. In the hands of a qualified operator the
DVOM can be used to diagnose very complex problems in vehicle electrical
systems, however some of this testing work has been shortened or eliminated
with the introduction of on-board diagnostics and the use of scan tools.
There are several types of DVOM available at different price points. The more
substantial and usually more expensive types have more functions and are
generally more reliable. In some locations many meters are known more
commonly by their brand name.
Description
The DVOM is an electronic measuring instrument that combines several functions
in one unit. The most basic instruments include an ammeter, voltmeter, and
ohmmeter.
The meter usually has a central rotating selection switch which is used to select
the electrical test function that the meter is going to be used for, and a set of
input points that are used to connect the meter to the item/circuit being tested
by test leads. Most meters also have a safety fuse fitted (of about 10 amps
maximum) for operational safety and to prevent damage to the meter should it
be connected to excessive electrical loads.
Some additional features available in some multimeter units:
A continuity tester that makes an audible sound when a circuit is not

broken, or shorted.
Digital numerical output of the quantity under test.
An amplifier to sense small voltages, currents and high resistances.
Measurements of inductance and capacitance.
Tests of diodes and transistors.
Scales and sockets for temperature measurement with standard

thermocouples.
An intermediate-frequency oscillator, a detector and an audio amplifier

with a speaker, to diagnose and tune radio circuits.
A slow oscilloscope. This is available mainly in high-end computercontrolled multimeters.
Test light
Summary
A test light is tool for testing circuits. It usually has a light that indicates the presence of an electrical current in the circuit to which it is
attached.
A test light is a basic circuit testing tool.
It consists of a mobile probe with a small lamp or light bulb attached, connected via an insulated wire or cable to a small clip that can be
clamped to a suitable return point for completing the circuit. When each end of the tester is connected to a circuit carrying a voltage, then the
lamp will light up. The metal probe is usually sharp enough to penetrate cable insulation so that the tester can connect directly with the
conducting wire inside.
Hydrometer
Summary
A hydrometer is an instrument used for determining the specific gravity of liquids. Common applications of a hydrometer are in battery
testing for state of charge and coolant testing for coolant concentrate to water ratio.
An hydrometer is an instrument that measures the specific gravity of fluids. 'Specific gravity' means the relative density of the fluid in comparison
to the density of water.
The hydrometer is usually made of glass and it consists of a chamber to contain some of the fluid to be measured and a calibrated float.
If the mass of any object is greater than its equivalent volume of fluid, then it will not float in the fluid, but will sink. For instance, a steel ball is
heavier than an equivalent-sized ball of water, so it will not float in water. By contrast, if the mass of an object is less than the equivalent volume
of fluid, it will float. For instance, a table tennis ball is much lighter than a table tennis ball-sized volume of water, so it will float in water.
The floating force acting on the object is always equal to the weight of the fluid being displaced by the mass of the object. Therefore, if the fluid
was a very heavy fluid, it is possible that the steel ball could float, and if the fluid was an extremely light fluid, it is possible that a ping-pong ball
would not float, but instead would sink.
In the hydrometer, the float will ride higher or lower in the water depending on the density of the fluid it is floating in. The calibrations on the float
at the fluid level indicate the specific gravity of the fluid.
In the automotive industry, hydrometers are used to measure the specific gravity of fluids such as battery electrolyte to assess the acid
concentration; radiator coolant to assess the freeze point, and diesel fuel to determine the Cetane level.
Using an angle grinder
Summary
The angle grinder uses an electric motor to drive an abrasive disc at high speed.
The objective of this procedure is to show you how to correctly use an angle
grinder.
Part 1. Preparation and safety
Objective
Show the correct operating procedure for using an angle grinder.
Personal safety
Whenever you perform a task in the workshop you must use personal protective
clothing and equipment that is appropriate for the task and which conforms to
your local safety regulations and policies. Among other items, this may include:
Work clothing - such as coveralls and steel-capped footwear
Eye protection - such as safety glasses and face masks
Ear protection - such as earmuffs and earplugs
Hand protection - such as rubber gloves and barrier cream
Respiratory equipment - such as face masks and valved respirators
If you are not certain what is appropriate or required, ask your supervisor.
Safety check
Always wear impact-resistant protective glasses, ear protection and a fullface shield when using an angle grinder.
Disconnect the power supply when changing any grinding attachments or

discs.
Wear safety shoes, leather gloves and an apron to protect your body from
flying metal chips. Make sure the blade guard is firmly secured.
Use the correct type of disc.
Make sure the guard handles are secure.
Use the correct flange or spindle nut for the type of disc being used. If you
don't, the disc can shatter at high speed and injure you.
Angle grinders, like all portable grinding tools, need to be equipped with
safety guards to protect you from flying fragments in case the disc breaks
apart.
Always follow the manufacturer's recommendations to make sure the

spindle wheel does not exceed the abrasive wheel specifications.
Make sure there are no obvious defects or damage to the disc before you
install it.
Everyone who uses an angle grinder must receive training and instruction
in safe work procedures.
Make sure that you understand and observe all legislative and personal
safety procedures when carrying out the following tasks. If you are unsure
of what these are, ask your supervisor.
Points to note
The angle grinder uses an electric motor to drive an abrasive disc at high
speed.
The grinder disc is turned at speeds that range from 5,000 rpm to 12,000
rpm.
The turning disc is used to grind or cut metal.
The grinder size relates to the diameter of the cutting disc. This can range
from 100 mm to 230 mm (4 inches to 9 inches). The size of grinder you
use depends on the type of job you are doing.
The smaller the grinder, the higher the speed it turns.
Sanding discs and wire wheels can be fitted on the grinder, making it a
versatile electric tool.
An extra handle is provided that is attached to the grinder head. This can
be fitted to either the left, right or top of the head to make it easy to use
for left-handed as well as right-handed people.
The abrasive disc or cutting wheel is attached to the grinder by a flange

and nut. The nut is specially designed to fit in a recess in the center of the
pad or wheel. It is tightened by a spanner that is provided with the grinder
when purchased. Do not lose this wrench because it is the only tool that
can tighten the nut properly.
When using cutting discs you should always use the edge of the disc
rather than the face.
Do not confuse a grinder with a sander/polisher. The sander/polisher turns

at lower speeds, typically 600 to 3,000 rpm. They are commonly used to
sand and polish paint. The pads these tools use cannot be turned at high
speed. If the polish pad were attached to an angle grinder, the higher
rotational speed would cause the polishing pad to burn the paint and
cause the polish pad to fly apart.
Part 2: Step-by-step instruction

1. Position the disc
Hold the face of the disc against the work, not the edge.
2. Work carefully
Be careful that the motors torque does not cause the grinder to slip out of
your hand. Do not press too hard. Let the grinder do the work.
3. Select the correct disc
Use special discs for cutting, in places where a hacksaw cant be used.
With cutting discs, use the edge of the wheel, not the face.
Using a bench grinder
Summary
The bench grinder turns an abrasive wheel or wire brush wheel at high speed.
These wheels are used to remove metal from a work piece, sharpen tools and
clean parts. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to set up, adjust
and use a bench grinder.
Objective
Set up, adjust and use a bench grinder.
Personal safety
Safety check
Stand to the side of the grinder when starting the electric motor.
Always wear full-face protection, ear protection, leather gloves and a

leather apron.
Use the safety shield fitted to the grinder. If it has been damaged, replace
it.
Do not grind on the side of the wheel because it may cause the wheel to
shatter.
Make sure you understand and observe all legislative and personal safety
procedures when carrying out the following tasks. If you are not sure of
what these are, ask your supervisor.
Points to note
The bench grinder turns an abrasive wheel or wire brush wheel at high
speed. These wheels are used to remove metal from a work piece,
sharpen tools and clean parts.
The type of wheel you use will depend on the type and the hardness of the
material.
Whether you are grinding or polishing, use the correct wheel for the
material you are grinding or buffing.
Ask your supervisor to demonstrate the differences between grinding

wheels for soft and hard materials and wire brush wheels.
As the abrasive wheel wears down, the gap between the wheel and the
tool rest will increase.
Make sure the tool rest is as close as possible to the grinding wheel, but
not touching it. It needs about a 1/16th of an inch (1.5 mm) gap.
The face of the abrasive wheel must be kept square. This is done with a
dressing tool, which removes some of the abrasive compound.
If the abrasive wheel is not square, ask your supervisor to demonstrate

the use of the dressing tool.
When grinding metal, it must not overheat. This will affect its hardness. If
the metal becomes too hot and is allowed to cool slowly, it may become
soft. If it is cooled quickly (quenched), it may become brittle.
As you shape the metal, dip it into the water pot attached to the bottom of
the grinder. This will prevent the metal from getting too hot.
Some bench grinders are not supplied with a water pot. If this is the case,
you will need to have a water pot located near the grinder so that you can
cool the piece you are grinding.
Component identification
Some parts of this illustration are labeled. It is important to learn the

names of these equipment components.

1. Set up the bench grinder
Before you start using the bench grinder, its vital that you set it up
correctly. When operating, the abrasive wheel turns at high speed and
produces dangerous and hot flying particles and sparks. Make sure the
grinder is both switched off and disconnected from the power supply
before you attempt to adjust it.
2. Use the correct safety equipment
Certain safety attachments MUST be in place before operating the grinder.
They are the wheel guard, the see-through safety shield, the tool rest, a
water pot and a full-face protector.
3. Use the correct wheel
The grinder may have abrasive grinding wheels for removing metal, a wire
wheel to clean parts, or both. Make sure the wheel youre using is
appropriate for the job.
4. Adjust the tool rest

With the correct wheel fitted to the grinder, adjust the tool rest. Position it
so theres at least 1/16th of an inch gap between the wheel, and the tool
rest and that it is the same height as the center of the wheel. To adjust the
tool rest, locate the adjusting bolt and loosen it with a box wrench. Set the
tool rest at the right height and distance from the wheel and then tighten
the adjusting bolt. If you are unsure of how to do this, ask your supervisor.
5. Safely use the grinder
Connect the grinder to the power supply. Adjust your face protector, stand
to the side of the wheel and switch the grinder on. Once the grinder is up
to speed, move to the front of the wheel, hold the part firmly onto the tool
rest, and move it slowly and gently forward until it comes into contact with
the wheel. The grinding wheel removes the metal it contacts. Occasionally
dip the part into the water to keep it cool.
6. Shut down
When you have finished, turn off the power and unplug the grinder.
Using pressure washers & cleaners
Summary
The objective of this procedure is to show you how to safely use pressure
washers and cleaners in the workshop. Familiarize yourself with the equipment
prior to use, as misuse can cause damage.
Objective
Safely use pressure washers and cleaners in the workshop.
Personal safety
Safety check
Wear protective gloves whenever using cleaning agents or solvents.
Always wear a facemask and gloves when using cleaning and washing
equipment.
Always wear safety shoes when using any washing equipment to prevent
slips on slippery surfaces.
Always be aware of the location of safety switches located on equipment

and of eyewash and first aid stations should an accident occur.
Do not place your hand, or any other part of your body in the stream of
water from the high-pressure wand
Do not aim the high-pressure wand at another person.
Always test the temperature of the wand and the hose before you pick it
up. The handle of the pressure wand is insulated to protect the user from
heat, but the wand extension and the hose are not.
If the pressure cleaner uses a heating element, turn the heater off and
allow water to flow through the wand until is has cooled before you turn
the unit off.
If you are unfamiliar with a solvent or a cleaning agent refer to the MSDS
for information about its correct use and applicable hazards.
Always wear protective clothing and the appropriate safety equipment.
Points to note
Pressure washers and cleaners used in automotive applications are

available in a range of makes and types depending on application. There
are fixed washers for cleaning components and mobile pressure washers
that can be used to wash vehicle systems and engine bays.
Make yourself familiar with the equipment prior to use; incorrect handling
can result in damage to the vehicle or components that you are cleaning
in addition to health risks to yourself and your workmates.
The biggest advantage of using fluid to clean vehicles, components and

workshops is that it wets the dirt or contaminants, so no dust is created.
However, the waste products must be caught and disposed of properly in
either a tank or sullage pit. The waste materials must not be released into
a storm water drain.
Component washers have to incorporate either an in-built waste recovery

system or can only be used where the contaminated washer fluids can be
captured to enable disposal in an environmentally friendly manner. They
are normally designed to run on low pressure and use a range of
chemicals and solvents as the cleaning agent.
A low-pressure air blower is normally provided to remove the fluid from the
component into the tray area and then back to the tank by gravity.
Always follow recommended safety procedures. Some washers use very

dangerous chemicals and others use very high pressure water to clean
away the contaminants.
It is imperative that the user read the instructions beforehand and be

familiar with the operation of the pressure washer. When cleaning exterior
paintwork, extreme care must be taken to ensure that the pressure does
not damage or remove paint. If in doubt, clean the area manually using a
clean sponge using fresh clean water.
It is very important to note the type of solvent being used as some vehicle
components can be damaged by some solvents and should only be
cleaned in wash tanks containing the correct cleaning fluid.
When using high pressure washers, it is always important not to use the
high pressure spray in areas where the ingress of water and water based
solvents can have a detrimental effect on electrical equipment such as
fuse boxes and relay units. If you are required to use a pressure washer in
an adjacent area of the vehicle, take precautionary measures to protect
the units from high-pressure water damage. The damage sometimes does
not become apparent for some time after the cleaning process, but can
have a catastrophic effect on the vehicle, causing system failures, which
are difficult to diagnose.
If the washer has been used on the braking system, ensure that the
vehicle is driven for a small distance with the brakes slightly applied to
dispel any residual water from the system through heat transfer and
subsequent evaporation of the water.
On completion of the job, the correct disposal of contaminated materials is

an absolute priority. Operatives of equipment may be subject to
prosecution for the incorrect disposal of waste materials.
Familiarize yourself with the equipment prior to use, as misuse can cause
damage.
Avoid using solvent when cleaning components as it contaminates friction

materials and may cause seals to swell. Water is a good cleaning agent for
brake components.
Never use Kerosene as a general cleaning agent to clean brake

components as it does not clean away brake fluid, can be absorbed into
lining materials and can cause seals to swell.
Whenever using a pressure washer or tank type cleaner with solvents and
cleaners make sure there is adequate exhaust ventilation. Wear
appropriate breathing apparatus and eye protection.

1. Choose the correct washer
Use the correct washer for the task you are performing, and always refer
to the manufacturers manual for specific operating instructions. Before
using the equipment locate the position of safety switches and put on a
facemask and gloves. Note the location of the eyewash and first aid
stations within the workshop. Use a component washer to clean items that
can be safely contained within the cleaning tray. Use a pressure washer to
clean vehicles, engines and engine bays.
2. Use a component washer
Make sure that all the washing fluid is contained within the cleaning tray
and returns to the reservoir. Washing solvents must not enter the
environment. Before using the component cleaner, make sure the solvent
is compatible with the component to be cleaned. Put on a facemask and
gloves and lift the component to be cleaned into the wash tray. Make sure
the waste drain is not blocked and the low-pressure air blower is
operational.
3. Clean and dry the component
Using a stiff brush, paint the solvent over the components to both wet and
clean the components and remove contaminants. Use the low-pressure air
blower to dry excess solvent from the component,
and make sure the waste materials are caught in the cleaning tray and
strained back into the tank below.
4. Use a high-pressure washer
Follow the manufacturers instructions and connect the pressure washer
hose to the mains pressure water supply, and the electrical plug to an
earth leakage protected power outlet. Make sure electrical connections
and adjacent areas are protected from water spray by using appropriate
protective shields. Put on a facemask and gloves and turn on the water
supply but not the electrical power. Make sure that water is flowing
through the washer unit by testing the flow through the pressure wand
before turning the power on. It should flow freely but not at high pressure.
5. Turn the power on
Turn the power on and you will hear the motor engage. Point the wand
toward the ground and test that the water now flows at high pressure.
6. Use a degreaser
It may be necessary to apply a degreasing agent with a hand brush to
penetrate and remove excess dirt before you operate the washer.
7. Clean the component
Pull the trigger and using a circular motion direct the high-pressure water
onto the area to be cleaned to remove the contaminants. Avoid getting the
high-pressure spray on the exterior paintwork of the vehicle by placing the
wand close to the area to be cleaned. When the contaminants have been
removed, release the trigger and then remove the wand from the cleaning
area. Turn the electrical power off then turn the water supply off.
8. Check vehicle operation
Use an air blower to disperse any residual water from electrical
components that have come into contact with the cleaning fluids, and then
start the vehicle. Let the vehicle run for a few moments to dry, and then
remove any residual water lying in the engine bay area. Clean up any
residual material and place in a bin or an environmental waste container.
Using an air drill
Summary
Unlike battery and electric powered drills, air drills do not require electricity to
operate. They are safer in an environment where flammable materials are
present. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to correctly operate
an air drill.
Objective
Demonstrate the correct operation of an air drill.
Personal safety
Safety check
Make sure you direct the air exhaust of air tools away from yourself and
others working in the area.
Always wear eye protection when using air tools.
Air tools generally produce more noise than electric tools, so wear ear
protection when using air tools.
Points to note
The amount of torque an air drill can produce will be determined by the
pressure in the air system feeding it.
Air drills are smaller and turn at slower speeds than electric drills. Their
power can be compared to a battery-powered drill.
Unlike battery and electric powered drills, air drills do not require
electricity to operate. They are safer in an environment where flammable
materials are present.
Air tools are attached to the air supply by fittings that allow the supply to
be connected and disconnected easily. Over time, these connections wear
and produce an air leak. If the air leak is excessive, the output of the air
tool will be reduced.
Air tools require lubrication. Most workshops have an automatic oiler

incorporated in the air supply system. If your workshop does not have an
automatic oiler, you will need to lubricate the air tools daily. Apply a few
drops of oil to the inlet of the air tool before you use it.

1. Wear safety protection
An air drill is used in an environment where an electric drill would be
unsafe to use. For example, where a spark may ignite flammable liquid.
Because it relies on compressed air, it is not as powerful as an electric
drill. Nor does it turn as fast. Make sure you are wearing the correct safety
gear before you start. Goggles and ear protectors are usually sufficient.
But if youre using a wire brush to remove carbon, rust or worn gaskets,
you should wear full-face protection against the flying particles.
2. Check the lubrication
If the air drill does not have an automatic self-lubricating system, apply a
few drops of light oil to the air inlet everyday.
3. Attach the air hose
Attach the workshops air hose to the drill, and check the hose and fittings
for any damage or obstruction.
4. Work slowly and carefully
Work slowly and carefully, being careful not to snag the air hose, or allow
the drill to touch any components other than the one youre working on.
5. Clean up
Clean up the work area, then dismantle the air drill and put the cleaned
attachments away securely.
Using an air impact wrench
Summary
The best use of an air impact wrench is to remove wheel lug nuts. Do not use an
impact wrench to tighten wheel lug nuts. The objective of this procedure is to
show you how to correctly use an air impact wrench.
Objective
Demonstrate the correct operation of an air impact wrench.
Personal safety
Safety check
Air tools generally produce more noise than electric tools, so wear ear
protection when using air tools.
Points to note
The amount of torque an air impact wrench can produce will be

determined by the pressure in the air system feeding it. Because this
pressure will vary, there is no way of determining how much torque an
impact wrench is applying to a fastener, so it is easy to over- or undertighten fasteners.
The best use of an air impact wrench is to remove wheel lug nuts. Do not
use an impact wrench to tighten wheel lug nuts.
Every impact wrench will have a control mechanism, so that it can be

driven in either direction.
Always use six-point impact sockets when using an air impact wrench.
Impact sockets are manufactured from a different blend of materials and
have thicker walls than a standard socket.

automatic oiler, you will need to lubricate the air tools daily. Apply a few
drops of oil to the inlet of the air tool before you use it.
An air impact wrench should be used to take up the looseness in a nut or

stud. The final tightening must be undertaken by using a torque wrench
set to the manufacturer's specifications.

1. Choose the correct tool
Use the impact wrench, sometimes called the rattle gun, to loosen and
remove the lug nuts on the wheels. The power and the vibration will
loosen a tight nut, because of the torque produced by the wrench.
2. Adjust the direction of operation
Adjust the direction of spin: forward or backward with the wrench lever.
3. Adjust the amount of torque
Turn the valve to increase or reduce the torque.
4. Correctly remove fasteners
Never fully tighten the wheel nuts. If you over tighten them, the bolts may
fail and cause the wheel to shear off the vehicle while it is moving. Always
finish the job with a lug nut wrench.
5. Use special sockets

Make sure only to use the special impact sockets, extensions and joints.
These sockets are special 6-point types and can withstand the sudden
force that the impact wrench produces.
Using an air blow gun
Summary
Air tools are attached to the air supply by fittings that allow the supply to be
connected and disconnected easily. The objective of this procedure is to show
you how to correctly operate an air blowgun.
Objective
Demonstrate the correct operation of an air blowgun.
Personal safety
Safety check
Do not use the air blowgun to clean brake dust from brake components. It
will disperse the dust through the workshop.
Do not use a high pressure air blowgun to disperse liquid solvents or fuels.
A low pressure blowing action can help these volatile materials to
evaporate more quickly, but a high pressure air jet could atomize the
liquid, allowing it to form a flammable mixture.
Do not point the air blowgun at other people.
Never use the air blowgun to blow air over yourself or other people.
Points to note
Pull the trigger gently and modulate the flow of air through the nozzle. If
too much air is allowed through, you may blow dirt particles into the
workshop.
Check connections between the air hose and the tool connection every
time you use it. If there is obvious wear, replace or repair any poor
connections.

1. Attach the air supply
The simplest air tool is a blowgun or air duster. Its used to spray
compressed air with a valve, which is operated by a lever. Fit the blowgun
to the end of the workshop air hose. Make sure the fittings are screwed in
tightly.
2. Wear safety protection
The air gun is used to blast dirt and debris out of confined spaces. To avoid
injury, be sure to wear eye and ear protection whenever you use the air
gun.
3. Correct operation
Do NOT use the air gun to dust yourself off because you risk injury. Be sure
to direct the air jet away from yourself, and away from anybody else who
may be working nearby.
Using an air chisel
Summary
Air chisels act in a similar manner to a jackhammer, however their size makes
their cycling rate faster. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to
correctly use an air chisel.
Objective
Demonstrate the correct use of an air chisel.
Personal safety
Safety check
Make sure you direct the exhaust of air tools away from yourself and
An air chisel's operation produces a noise level that exceeds the maximum
exposure level for human ears. Always wear ear protection when using an
air chisel.
Points to note
Air chisels act in a similar manner to a jackhammer, however their size

makes their cycling rate faster.
Place the tool bit against the work piece before you pull the trigger.
Use the correct attachment for the task you are performing. Incorrect use
can create a large amount of damage in a short time.
and develop an air leak. If the air leak is excessive, the output of the air

automatic oiler or if the automatic oiler is not operating, you will need to
lubricate the air tools daily. Apply a few drops of oil to the inlet of the air
tool before you use it.

1. Select and fit the bit
Fit the appropriate bit into the nozzle of the gun.
2. Position the chisel
Position the chisel so its pointing directly away from you and fits squarely
on to the work piece. Be sure NOT to pull the trigger until the bit is
pressed against the piece to be cut. Wear appropriate eye and ear
protection.
3. Work slowly
Apply gentle pressure to the chisel and pull the trigger. Allow the chisel to
do the work, and work slowly around the bolt head.
Repairing an external thread
Summary
A die is a metalworking tool used to repair or cut new outside threads on
fasteners. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to use a die to
repair damaged threads in an automotive component.
Objective
Use a die to repair damaged threads in an automotive component.
Personal safety
Safety check
Use safety eyewear when using cutting equipment.
Do not run your fingers down a newly cut thread. It has many sharp edges
that will cut your fingers and small metal particles will start an infection in
the cut.
Points to note
A die is a metalworking tool used to repair or cut new outside threads on

fasteners.
The die is installed in a tool called a "die stock". It gives the leverage to
turn the die over the new thread. The diestock locates the die in place
using thumbscrews that match indentations in the outer edge of the die.
The die has a top and a bottom. The bottom has tapered threads to guide
the thread into the die.
Use a thread cutting compound with the die. It will keep the cutting edge
of the die sharp, allowing it to be used many times.
If cutting a new thread on a bolt or stud, make sure the top of the shank is
square. This will help lead the die teeth squarely onto the shank.
Make sure the die is square to the shaft of the stud or bolt at the start of
the thread cutting process.
When cutting or repairing a thread, once the die has started to cut, turn
the die about a quarter of a turn then back off. Cut another quarter of the
thread and back off again. Continue until the thread has been cut. This
action clears the cutting teeth of any scrap and gives a better finish.
Once the thread has been cut and the die removed, clean the new thread
with a wire brush. This will remove any sharp edges and any left over
scrap from the new thread.
Do not use a wrench to tighten the die locating thumbscrews.

1. Determine the thread size
Use a thread pitch gauge to confirm the size of the bolt or stud. This
should match the thread it will go into.
2. Choose the correct die

Choose the correct size and type of tap and die set for the job. It will be
either Inch or Metric.
3. Fit the die to the die stock
Fit the die into the diestock, using the locating screw on the stock to
engage the hole on the die and secure it into place.
4. Apply thread cutting compound
Apply a small amount of thread cutting compound to the exposed,
damaged threads of the bolt. If the bolt or stud is a separate item, hold it
upright in a vise. Make sure the vise is equipped with soft jaws so you
dont damage the thread any further. Then tighten the vise so that the bolt
is vertical.
5. Rotate the die stock clockwise
Slowly and carefully turn the diestock in a clockwise direction onto the
damaged bolt. Make sure to keep the pressure vertically above the bolt.
You will feel the die removing the metal from the bolt. Continue to turn the
die until you reach the depth to which the matching nut will be tightened.
6. Remove the die counterclockwise
To remove the die, turn the diestock counter-clockwise up and away from
the bolt. Clean any filings or particles from the cutting threads of the die.
7. Clean and test
Use a rag and then a wire brush to clean the compound and metal
particles from the thread of the bolt before you remove it from the vise.
Test the job by using the correct size nut and tightening it by hand all the
way down the bolt or rod. If the repair is sound, dismantle the die from the
diestock, clean them both and put them away safely.
Repairing an internal thread
Summary
The objective of this procedure is to show you how to use a tap to repair
damaged threads in an automotive component. There are three different types of
thread taps: starting, intermediate and finishing.
Objective
Use a tap to repair damaged threads in an automotive component.
Personal safety
Safety check
Use safety eyewear when using cutting equipment.
The teeth of a tap are sharp. Be careful when handling the tap so that you
do not injure yourself.
Points to note
There are three different types of thread taps: starting, intermediate and
finishing.
A starting tap has a well tapered end, which is why it is sometimes called a
"taper" tap. This allows the tap gradually to cut deeper threads as it
passes through the job. It can be used to cut a thread in work that has a
thin enough section to allow the tap to pass through it. It is also used to
perform the first cut in a blind hole.
An intermediate, or second tap is used for the second cut in a blind hole. It
has fewer tapers than a tapered tap, which allows the threads at the
bottom of the hole to be more complete.
A finishing, bottoming or plug tap is designed to cut the final thread into a
blind hole. It has almost no taper, so the threads it cuts extend to the
bottom of the hole.
Use a thread cutting compound with the thread tap. It will keep the cutting
edge of the tap sharp, allowing it to be used many times.
When cutting a new thread into a hole, make sure the tap is square to the
work piece. This will help lead the teeth to cut squarely onto the shank.
When cutting or repairing a thread, once the tap has started to cut, turn it
about a quarter of a turn then back off, then cut another quarter thread
and back off again. Continue until the thread has been cut. This action
clears the cutting teeth of any scrap and gives a better finish.
Once the thread has been cut and the tap removed, clean the new thread
with an air duster.
Do not use an impact wrench on the tap.
Practice on a scrap component before attempting a real one.

1. Choose the correct tap
Choose the correct size and type of tap you need to repair the thread,
either in Metric or Inch.
2. Determine the thread size

Determine the thread size of the screw that should fit the damaged hole.
Use a thread pitch gauge to confirm the size.
3. Select corresponding tap
Select the corresponding tap size and type: either a taper, intermediate or
bottoming tap.
4. Fit the tap to the tap wrench
Select either a T-handle wrench or a hand-held tap wrench, and fit the
square end of the tap shank into the chuck on the wrench then tighten the
chuck.
5. Apply thread cutting compound
Apply a small amount of thread cutting compound to the cutting teeth of
the tap. Position the tap in the damaged hole, making sure that its square
to the hole and not at an angle.
6. Rotate the tap clockwise
Slowly and carefully turn the tap wrench in a clockwise direction into the
damaged hole. You will feel the tap removing the metal from inside the
hole, making the thread. Continue to turn the tap until it has bottomed in
the hole or has passed all the way through.
7. Remove the tap counterclockwise
To remove the tap, turn the wrench counter-clockwise up and out of the
hole. Clean any filings or particles from the cutting threads and the flute of
the tap before you remove it from the wrench.
8. Clean out the hole and test it
Clean out any filings or particles from the hole you have just repaired. You
can then test the repair by using the correct size screw or bolt and
tightening it by hand. Sometimes youll find the damage was so severe
that the tap wrench procedure fails to fix the problem. If this happens refer
the job to your supervisor.
Removing a stud
Summary
Stud removers are used to remove damaged studs when jam and drive nuts
cannot perform the task. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to
remove and replace a stud with a jam and drive nut or a stud remover.
Objective
Remove and replace a stud with a jam and drive nut or a stud remover.
Personal safety
Safety check
Do not apply too much force to old and corroded studs. They may break if
too much force is applied to them.
Points to note
Studs can be removed and refitted using two different methods:

o
Jam and drive nut
Stud remover
The jam and drive nut method is used when the stud is re-used because it
does not damage the stud.
Stud removers are used to remove damaged studs when jam and drive
nuts cannot perform the task.
The most common type of stud remover consists of a frame with two holes
and a knurled offset movable set of jaws.
The holes are two different sizes. When you slide the stud remover over
the stud, select the hole that allows the jaw to have the best purchase.
Measure the exposed length of the existing stud before removal.
After the stud has been removed, compare it to the new one. They should
be the same thread and pitch.
When fitting the new stud, apply the correct thread coating compound. It
may be thread locking compound or an anti-rusting agent.

1. Use penetrating fluid
If the stud is rusted in place, soak the base of the stud threads with
penetrating fluid to remove the corrosion and make it easier to take out. If
possible, let the penetrating fluid soak in overnight.
2. Measure the old stud
Before working on the old stud, measure its exposed portion to verify the
new stud is the same size. Note the measurement.
3. Install the drive nut
Find two nuts with the same size and thread as the old stud, and thread
one of these all the way down to the bottom of the stud. This will be the
drive nut.
4. Install the jam nut

Thread the second nut all the way down until it sits on top of the drive nut.
This second nut will be the jam nut.
5. Tighten the 'jam' nut
Secure an open-end wrench to the bottom drive nut and hold it in
position. Then tighten the jam nut against the drive nut with a box or
open-end wrench. The jam nut will now prevent the drive nut from moving.
6. Turn the drive nut
Use the open-end wrench to turn the bottom drive nut counter-clockwise.
The drive nut applies the turning force to the stud and forces it to unscrew.
7. Remove the stud
Continue to rotate the drive nut until the stud comes out.
8. Attach the stud remover
If jam and drive nuts dont budge the stud, you can use a stud remover.
Slide the stud remover over the old stud and seat it flush with the surface
of the component. Turn the jaws in a counter clockwise direction until the
stud is held tight.
9. Turn counterclockwise
Fit a wrench onto the stud remover and turn the wrench in a counterclockwise direction. The stud remover will grip the stud and turn it.
Continue to rotate the stud, using the wrench, until the stud comes out.
10.Inspect for damage
Once youve removed the old stud, inspect the internal thread of the hole
for any damage
Using a screw extractor
Summary
Screw extractors are available in two common types: one has reverse threads
and the other has straight flutes. The objective of this procedure is to show you
how to use a screw extractor to remove a broken stud or screw.
Objective
Use a screw extractor to remove a broken stud or screw.
Personal safety
Safety check
Always wear eye protection when drilling and removing a broken stud or
bolt.
Points to note
Fasteners can fail for many reasons: over-tightening, over-stressing,

fatigue and old age are all possible causes.
If the fastener is broken near the surface, a screw extractor will be needed
to remove it.
Screw extractors are available in two common types: One has reverse
threads and the other has straight flutes.
The fastener needs to be drilled before the screw extractor can be

inserted.
Always drill to the size recommended by the screw extractor instructions.

If you are unsure of the correct size, ask your supervisor.
If a fastener is rusted into place, use a penetrating fluid on the threads

and allow it time to work before attempting to loosen it.
Sometimes the fastener can be made easier to remove by the application

of heat to the surrounding area. Ask your supervisor to demonstrate this to
you.
When fitting a replacement stud, apply the recommended coating to the

thread. It may be thread locking or anti-seize compound. Follow the
manufacturer's instructions on the application and use of the compound.
Use a jam and drive nut to fit the replacement stud.

1. Select the correct tools for the job
Open your screw extractor set and study the instructions, which should be
enclosed. Identify and select the correct size drill and screw extractor for
the job.
2. Mark the exact center
With a center punch, mark the exact center of the broken screw to get the
power drill started.
3. Drill a hole
Drill a hole through the center of the bolt. Drill only to the depth specified
in your screw extractor instructions.
4. Select the correct size

Make sure you use the correct screw extractor that is, the one that
matches the drill bit you used.
5. Turn extractor counterclockwise
Because the screw extractor has reverse threads, you will need to
remember to turn it counter-clockwise.
6. Use a tap wrench
Use a tap wrench and turn the screw extractor into the hole. The reverse
threads will force the extractor into the hole until the broken bolt or stud is
forced to turn. Continue turning until the stud is removed.
Using a gear puller
Summary
Gear and bearing pullers are designed for hundreds of applications. Their main
purpose is to remove a component, such as a gear, pulley or bearing from a
shaft, or to remove a shaft from inside a hole. The objective of this procedure is
to show you how to select, install and use a gear puller to remove a pulley.
Objective
Select, install and use a gear puller to remove a pulley.
Personal safety
Safety check
Always wear eye protection when using a gear puller.
Make sure the puller is located correctly on the work piece. If the jaws
cannot be fitted correctly on the part, then select a more appropriate
puller. Do not use a puller that does not fit the job.
Points to note
Gear and bearing pullers are designed for hundreds of applications. Their
main purpose is to remove a component, such as a gear, pulley or bearing
from a shaft, or to remove a shaft from inside a hole. Normally these
components will have been pressed on to that shaft, or into the hole, so
they will need considerable force to remove them.
Gear pullers come in a range of sizes and shapes, all designed for
particular applications. They will consist of three main parts:
o
Jaws
Cross Arm
Forcing Screw
There will normally be two or three jaws on a puller. They will be designed
to work either externally around a pulley, or internally.
The forcing screw is a long, fine threaded screw that is applied to the
center of the shaft. When the forcing screw is turned, it applies many
tons/tonnes of force through the component you are removing.
The cross arm attaches the jaws to the forcing screw. There may be two,
three or four arms. If the cross arm has four arms, three of the arms will be
spaced 120-degrees apart. The fourth arm will be positioned 180-degrees
apart from one arm. This allows the cross arm to be used as either a twoor a three-arm puller.

1. Examine the gear puller
Examine the gear puller you have selected for the job. Identify the jaws
there may be two or three of them, and they must fit the part you want to
remove. The cross-arm enables you to adjust the diameter of the jaws. The
forcing screw should fit snugly onto the part youre removing. Finally,
select the right size wrench to fit the nut on the end of the forcing screw.
2. Adjust and fit the puller
Adjust the jaws and cross-arms of the puller so that it fits tightly around
the part to be removed. The arms of the jaws should be pulling against the
component at close to right angles.
3. Position the forcing screw
Use the appropriate wrench to run the forcing screw down to touch the
shaft. Check that the point of the forcing screw is centered on the shaft. If
not, adjust the jaws and cross-arms until the point is in the center of the
shaft.
4. Tighten the forcing screw
Tighten the forcing screw slowly and carefully onto the shaft. Check that
the puller is not going to slip off center or off the pulley. Readjust the puller
if necessary.
5. Remove the part
If the forcing screw and puller jaws remain in the correct position, tighten
the forcing screw and pull the part off the shaft.
Using a torque wrench & an angle gauge
Summary
Vehicle manufacturers specify torque values for certain fasteners. This is to make
sure that fasteners are not over- or under-tightened. The torque wrench is used
to apply a specified amount of torque to a fastener. The torque angle gauge is
used to make sure there is equal tightness of fasteners on a component. The
objective of this procedure is to show you how to use a torque angle gauge in
conjunction with a torque wrench.
Objective
Use a torque angle gauge in conjunction with a torque wrench.
Personal safety
Safety check
Refer to the manufacturer's specifications when tightening fasteners.
If replacing a fastener, make sure it has the correct tensile value for the
task it has to perform.
Points to note
Over-tightening a fastener can damage the gasket and the threads.
Support the head of the torque wrench during its use.
Vehicle manufacturers specify torque values for certain fasteners. This is

to make sure that fasteners are not over- or under-tightened.
The torque value will be specified in foot-pounds (lb-ft) or Newton-meters

(Nm) and is the amount of twisting force applied to a fastener by the
torque wrench.
A foot-pound is described as the amount of twisting force applied to a

shaft by a lever one foot long with a weight of one pound placed on the
outer end. A torque value of 100lb-ft will be the same as a 100 lb weight
placed at the end of a 1-foot-long lever.
A Newton-meter is described as the amount of twisting force applied to a

shaft by a lever one meter long with a force of one Newton applied to the
outer end. A torque value of 100Nm will be the same as applying a 100
Newton force to the end of a 1-meter long lever.
One lb-ft is equal to 1.35 Nm.
Torque wrench
The torque wrench is used to apply a specified amount of torque to a

fastener.
There are various methods used by torque wrenches to indicate that the
correct torque has been reached. Some will give an audible signal such as
a click or a beep, while others will give a visual signal such as a light or a
pin moving or clicking out.
Make sure the threads are clean before tightening the fastener to a
specified torque. Any friction will give an inaccurate reading and will affect
the compressive force the fastener will apply to the component.
Always handle a torque wrench carefully. It is a precision instrument that

will lose its calibration if mistreated.
Torque angle gauge
The torque angle gauge is used to make sure there is equal tightness of
fasteners on a component. It is calibrated in degrees.
Tightening by angle rather than torque removes the error that is produced
by friction in the threads.
Torque to yield (also known as torque and turn)
Some fasteners are designed to be deliberately over-tightened. These

bolts are known as "torque to yield" bolts. The fastener is tightened to a
specific torque with a torque wrench, then the torque angle gauge is
turned a number of degrees.
When tightened, these fasteners are stretched beyond their elastic limit.
So when they are removed, they must be discarded and replaced with new
ones.

1. Check the specifications
Determine the correct torque value for the bolt or fastener youre using.
This will be in Foot-Pounds or Newton Meters. Also, check the torque angle
specifications for the bolt or fastener.
2. Tighten the bolt
Tighten the bolt to the specified torque.
3. Install the gauge
Install the torque angle gauge over the head of the bolt, and then put the
torque wrench on top of the gauge.
4. Torque to specifications
Turn the torque wrench the specified number of degrees for that bolt. If
the component requires multiple bolts or fasteners, make sure to tighten
them all to the same torque value and torque angle.
Using a thread pitch gauge
Summary
Fasteners are used to secure components or pieces of components together.
There are two main types of fasteners: inch and metric. They are not compatible.
The objective of this procedure is to show you how to identify the common types,
length, diameter, grade and thread pitch of threaded fasteners.
Objective
Identify the common types, length, diameter, grade and thread pitch of
threaded fasteners.
Personal safety
Safety check
Never use a bolt that has been over-tightened. Its tensile strength is very
low and it could break.
Use the correct tool to tighten or loosen bolts, otherwise you could break
them.
Points to note
Fasteners are used to secure components or pieces of components

together. There are two main types of fasteners: inch and metric. They are
not compatible.
Bolts are identified in four ways:

o
Length
Diameter
Thread Pitch
Tensile Strength
A bolts length is the distance from under the head of the bolt to the far
end of the thread. Inch bolts can come in sizes such as 1 14", 3 12", etc.
Metric bolt sizes might be 25mm, 40mm, etc.
The bolt diameter is the thickness of the bolt shank. This will be 14" or
12", etc if it is an inch bolt, or 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, etc if it is a metric bolt.
Fine threads can achieve a greater tightening force than coarse threads.
Coarse threads are used in softer materials because they have a greater
grip on the material.
The measurement of thread pitch for UNC and UNF bolts is described in
the number of threads-per-inch (TPI).
A UNF bolt may measure 12" x 3" x 20. That is, the bolt is 3" long, has a
shank diameter of 12" and the threaded area has 20 threads in every inch
of thread. A UNC bolt that measures 12" x 3" x 13 will have the same
dimensions but have only 13 threads for every inch of thread.
The length and shank diameter of metric bolts is measured in the same
way as UNF and UNC bolts but the measurements are in millimeters,
rather than in inches or fractions of an inch. The difference lies in how the
thread pitch is measured. Metric bolts define their pitch by the distance
between each thread. There are still fine and coarse threads but this time
the bolt dimension may be 6mm x 40mm x 1.0 or 1.25 in the case of a fine
thread. A coarse threaded bolt of a similar size will have the dimensions of
6mm x 40mm x 1.75 or 2.0.
The suitability of a bolt for an application is determined by its tensile

strength and its yield strength. The tensile strength is defined as the
maximum stretching stress a bolt can withstand without breaking. The
yield strength is the maximum stress a bolt can withstand and still return
to its original form.
There are two standards of bolt grading in use. The Society of Automotive
Engineers (SAE) and the American National Standards Institute (ANSI)
apply the ANSI standard. This grading applies to the strength of the bolt.
The second is the International Standards Organization (ISO) grading for
tensile strength and yield strength of the bolt.
A bolt graded by the ANSI standard is identified by the number of lines

arranged around the head of the bolt. The minimum value of tensile
strength is defined as 2. A bolt of this value has no lines on its on its head.
o
0 lines = Grade 2 tensile strength
3 lines = Grade 5
5 lines = Grade 7
6 lines = Grade 8
A high grade-value = a high tensile value.
The ISO standard uses two numbers on the head of the bolt. The first
number indicates the tensile strength; the second number signifies the
yield strength.
If a bolt is marked 8.8, it has a tensile strength of 800 MegaPascals (MPa)

and a yield strength value of 640 MPa, 80% of its tensile strength. A
marking of 10.9 indicates a tensile value of 1000 MPa with a yield strength
of 900 MPa, 90% of its tensile strength.
o
4 = 400 MPa
5 = 500 MPa
8 = 800 MPa
10 = 1000 MPa
.5 = 50%
.6 = 60%
.7 = 70%, etc.
Always use a bolt suitable for the application. If a bolt with too high tensile
strength is used and not tightened to its designed value, it may fail. That
is because high tensile bolts have less resistance to fatigue than bolts with
a lower tensile value.

1. Choose a pitch gauge
To determine the thread pitch of a particular fastener, you need to use a
thread pitch gauge.
2. Check gauge markings
Open out the pitch gauge set and examine the markings on the toothed
blades. The markings will be either in inch units or in metric units. The
numbers stamped on the toothed blade of an inch gauge set indicate the
number of threads per inch of thread length. For example: 16 threads to
the inch. Look at the numbers on the blade of a Metric pitch gauge set.
The numbers indicate the width between each thread in millimeters. For
example: a thread pitch of 1.5 millimeters.
3. Measure a known size
Choose a fastener of a size you know. Say, 3/8inch U-N-C bolt. Using your
inch gauge set, select each blade and hold the toothed edge against the
thread of the bolt. Continue trying the blades until you find one that
matches exactly the thread on your bolt. Check the number on the blade;
it should read 16. That is, 16 threads per inch.
4. Measure an unknown size
Now choose a fastener whose size you do not know. If it is a metric bolt,
select the metric thread pitch gauge. Repeat the procedure with the
blades against the thread of the bolt, until you find a perfect match. Check
the number on the blade; it will tell you the thread pitch of this fastener in
millimeters.
5. Correctly store gauge
When you have finished, be sure to fold all of the blades back into their
casing before putting the gauge set away. This is to protect the blade
teeth from damage.
Using a vacuum gauge
Summary
A vacuum gauge is used to measure the manifold pressure. In naturally aspirated
engines, this pressure is always below atmospheric pressure. It is referred to as a
vacuum. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to connect and use a
vacuum gauge to check engine manifold vacuum.
Objective
Connect and use a vacuum gauge to check engine manifold vacuum.
Personal safety
Safety check
Points to note
Vacuum gauges are possibly the most useful diagnostic tool in engine
diagnosis. They are often forgotten by technicians who may prefer to use
modern electronic diagnostic equipment.
A vacuum gauge is used to measure the manifold pressure. In naturally

aspirated engines, this pressure is always below atmospheric pressure. It
is referred to as a vacuum.
The vacuum gauge reads in either millimeters of mercury (mm Hg) or

inches of mercury (in Hg). Those measurements mean the vacuum is
strong enough to support a column of mercury in a tube to a height of so
many millimeters or inches.
0 in Hg is equal to atmospheric pressure. A fully loaded engine at wideopen throttle will reach close to this reading.
30 in Hg is referred to as a perfect vacuum. It is a point where there is no

pressure at all. It is a theoretical number because it is impossible to
achieve. An engine decelerating on closed throttle will reach close to this
reading.
Healthy engines will create more vacuum in their inlet manifolds than
worn engines. So a pressure comparison between a known healthy reading
and the engine you are testing can assist in determining the state of wear
of the engine.
Refer to the chart below for various vacuum gauge readings.
Engine
Speed
Gauge Reading
Engine Condition
Idle
16" - 22" steady
Healthy
Idle
14" - 20" steady
Fair but worn
Snap
throttle
Jumps to 2" then on

decel moves to 25"
Healthy
Snap
throttle
Jumps to 1" then on

decel moves to 22"
Fair but worn
Idle
8" or less
Vacuum leak, loose

intake manifold
Idle
Fluctuated between
14" - 19"
Worn valve guides or

head gasket blown
between 2 cylinders
Idle
Reading drops from

normal
Burnt valve, valve stuck

open, misfiring spark
plug
Idle
8" - 14"
Valve timing incorrect

or large camshaft
overlap
Idle
14" - 16"
Ignition timing wrong
Idle
Moves between 12" 16"
Idle mixture incorrect
Slow engine Needle falls then rises Blocked exhaustWeak

speed rise suddenly
valve springs
3000 rpm
Needle fluctuates and

worsens with higher
rpm
Weak valve springs
1. Examine the gauge

The vacuum gauge has many uses in vehicle maintenance but its
importance in detecting leaks or diagnosing problems is often overlooked.
Examine the vacuum gauge thats used in your workshop. Determine the
units of measurement. And be sure to read the printed instructions that
accompany the gauge.
2. Fit the gauge to the manifold
In this case, the vacuum gauge will be used to measure manifold vacuum.
Fit the vacuum gauge onto the engine intake manifold. You may need to fit
a Tee piece to an existing vacuum connection.
3. Start the engine
With the vehicle in neutral or park, and the emergency brake on, start the
vehicles engine and let it settle into a uniform idle.
4. Check the reading
Check the reading on your vacuum gauge. If the engine has no problems,
the reading should be within the range fourteen to twenty- two inches of
mercury and the needle steady.
5. Change the load on the engine
Snap the throttle open and let it close. You will see the vacuum gauge
needle quickly move to near zero then move all the way to almost thirty
inches then back to the idle position. Open the throttle slowly. Notice the
reaction of the needle.
6. Record your observations
Make sure you keep a record of the readings and needle movements you
experience when working with different engine components.
Using a dial indicator
Summary
Dial indicators are used in many types of service jobs. They are particularly
useful in determining run-out on rotating shafts and rotors. Dial indicators can
measure with an accuracy of 0.001" or 0.01mm. The objective of this procedure
is to show you the correct method of measuring using a dial indicator.
Objective
Demonstrate the correct method of measuring using a dial indicator.
Personal safety
Safety check
Points to note
Dial indicators are used in many types of service jobs. They are
particularly useful in determining run-out on rotating shafts and rotors.
Run-out is the side-to-side variation of movement when a component is

turned.
Dial indicators normally have two separate scales. The needle is able to
move numerous times around the outer scale. One full turn may represent
0.1" or 1mm. The small inner scale indicates how many times the outer
needle has moved around its scale. In this way, the dial indicator is able to
read movement of up to 2" or 1cm.
Dial indicators can measure with an accuracy of 0.001" or 0.01mm.
The type of dial indicator you use will be determined by the amount of
movement you expect from the component you are measuring.
They must be fitted so that there is no movement between the dial

indicator and the component to be measured.
Most dial indicator sets contain various attachments and support arms so
they can be attached to the component. There are other attachments
available. These attachments allow the dial indicator to be configured
specifically for the measuring task.
When attaching a dial indicator, keep support arms as short as possible.

Make sure that all attachments are tightened to prevent unnecessary
movement between the indicator and the component.
Make sure the dial indicator pointer is positioned at 90 to the face of the
component to be measured.
Always read the dial, face or straight on. A view from the side can give a
considerable "parallax" error. Parallax error is a visual error caused by
viewing measurement markers at an incorrect angle.
The outer face of the dial indicator can be moved so that the zero can be
positioned over the pointer.

1. Select the correct gauge and attachment
Select the gauge type, size, attachment and bracket, which fit the part
youre measuring. Mount the dial indicator on a firm surface to keep it still.
2. Ensure plunger is at 90 degrees
Adjust the indicator so that the plunger is at 90 degrees to the part youre
measuring.
3. Press the plunger halfway in

Press the dial indicator gently against the part, and rotate the part in this
case a brake rotor-- one full turn. Keep pressing until the plunger settles
about halfway into the indicator.
4. Lock into position
Lock the indicator assembly into position.
5. Rotate and read
Carefully rotate the brake rotor a couple of times, while you observe the
dial readings face on.
6. Record any movements
If the pointer hovers around a single graduation on the dial, the part has
minimal run out, or surface distortion. If it moves significantly left and
right, you should note these variations. Find the point of maximum
movement to the left and move the dial so that zero is over this point.
Continue to rotate the brake rotor. Find the point of maximum movement
to the right, and note the reading. This will indicate the run out value.
Continue this rotation several times to confirm the points of maximum
variation.
7. Check your results
Check your readings against the manufacturers specifications. If the
deviation is greater than the specifications allow, consult your supervisor.
Using a feeler gauge
Summary
Feeler gauges are strips of hardened metal that have been ground or rolled to a
precise thickness. They can be very thin and will cut through skin if not handled
correctly. The objective of this procedure is to show you the correct choice and
use of feeler gauge sets.

Objective
Show the correct choice and use of feeler gauge sets.
Personal safety
Safety check
Never use feeler gauges on operating machinery.
Feeler gauges are strips of hardened metal that have been ground or
rolled to a precise thickness. They can be very thin and will cut through
skin if not handled correctly.
Points to note
There are many types of feeler gauges, each with a specific application.
Feeler gauges usually come in sets with a number of blades. The thickness
of each blade is marked in thousandths of an inch and hundredths of a
millimeter. A marking of 0.040 indicates the feeler is 40 thousandths of an
inch thick. It may also indicate a measurement of 1.02 millimeters. A
feeler marked 0.005 indicates the thickness is 5 thousandths of an inch. It
may also indicate 0.12 millimeters.
Some sets contain feelers made of brass. These are to take measurements
between magnetic components.
When measuring a spark plug gap, it is preferable to use wire feeler

gauges. These feelers use accurately machined pieces of wire instead of
metal strips.
If the feeler gauge feels too loose when measuring a gap, select the next
size larger and measure the gap again. Repeat this procedure until the
feeler gauge fits snugly in the gap. If the feeler gauge is too tight, select a
smaller size until the feeler gauge fits snugly in the gap.

1. Select correct type of gauge set
Select the appropriate type and size of feeler gauge set for the job youre
working on.
2. Examine the wires or blades
Spread out the wires or blades and examine the markings on them. They
indicate the size of the feeler. The measurements may be in inch or metric
sizes or both. They should also be clean, rust-free and undamaged, but
slightly oiled for ease of movement.
3. Measure gap
Select the part you wish to check, and make sure its clean. Choose one of
the smaller wires or blades, and try to insert it in the gap on the part. If it
slips in and out easily, choose the next size up. When you find one that
touches both sides of the gap, and slides with only gentle pressure, then
youve found the exact width of that gap.
4. Keep gauges oiled
The oily film on the blade helps to minimize friction. So if you move the
gauge and it feels tight, then youve got the wrong measurement.
5. Check the specifications
Read the markings on the wire or blade, and check these against the
manufacturers specifications for this component. If gap width is outside

the tolerances specified, refer to your supervisor.
6. Clean up and store
Finish the job by cleaning the feeler gauge set with an oily cloth to prevent
rust when you put the set away.
Using a micrometer
Summary
Micrometers are available in metric and inch graduations. Typically, an inch
micrometer has an accuracy of 0.001" and a metric micrometer has an accuracy
of 0.01mm. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to measure using
an outside micrometer.
Objective
Demonstrate the correct method of measuring using an outside

micrometer.
Personal safety
Safety check
Points to note
Accurate measurement of components is one of the most important

aspects of a technician's job. Inaccuracies lead to an incorrect diagnosis.
Micrometers are available in metric and inch graduations. Common sizes

range from 25-150 mm or 1-6 inches. Typically, an inch micrometer has an
accuracy of 0.001" and a metric micrometer has an accuracy of 0.01mm.
Some micrometers have an extra "vernier" scale that increases accuracy

by a factor of 10 to 0.0001" or 0.001mm. Others will include a small dial
gauge that serves the same function as the vernier scale. The dial is
located on the micrometer frame where the locking lever is usually
located.
The size of the micrometer you will use is determined by its measuring
range.
It is important that other factors do not affect a micrometer measurement.

For example, if a micrometer is held in your hand, the heat from your
fingers can cause the frame to expand and give an inaccurate reading.
Always hold the micrometer by the insulating block on the frame. This will
prevent the heat from your fingers reaching the micrometer.
It is important that the correct amount of force is applied to the spindle

when taking a measurement. The spindle and anvil should just touch the
component with a slight amount of drag when the micrometer is removed
from the measured piece.
Use the ratchet on the end of the thimble until you learn the correct feel
for tightness.
Always clean the micrometer and return it to its protective case when you
have finished using it.


1. Handle with care
The outside micrometer is a delicate, precision, measuring instrument,
and needs to be handled with care. Make sure the measuring faces are
clean of any oil or particles. Use a clean piece of lint free cloth to wipe
both faces; and also the item youre going to measure.
2. Hold the micrometer correctly
Inch micrometers give readings measured in units of thousandth of an
Inch. Metric micrometers work on the same principles, with graduations of
one-hundredth of a millimeter. To hold the micrometer correctly, use one
hand to hold the frame by the plastic insulating block, and the other hand
to hold the sleeve and thimble. Micrometers have a locking mechanism, to
prevent movement in the spindle when you take it away from the item
youre measuring.
3. Take a measurement
Undo the locking mechanism, and open the micrometer until it is wider
than the object to be measured. Make sure that the micrometer is
horizontal in relation to the object youre measuring. Place the anvil
against the object, then tighten the thimble gently until it has nearly
touched the component. Then using the ratcheting thimble, tighten the
micrometer until you feel the thimble clicking. Use the thimble lock to
keep the reading constant, and gently withdraw the micrometer.
4. Read the results
Examine the scale on the sleeve and the thimble. You will find the scale on
the sleeve in units, either in parts of an inch or in millimeters. On the
thimble you will find a scale in either a thousandth of an inch or a
hundredth of a millimeter. Add the sleeve and thimble readings. This will
give an accurate reading for the part you have just measured.
5. Assess the information
Take readings at different points on the part to assess the amount of wear.
Compare these readings to specifications. This will assist you in
determining whether the part conforms to tolerances.
Using a tire pressure gauge
Summary
There are two main types of tire pressure gauges: fixed workshop gauges and
portable pocket size gauges. The objective of this procedure is to show you how
to use a tire pressure gauge and interpret the readings correctly.
Objective
Use a tire pressure gauge and interpret the readings correctly.
Personal safety
Safety check
Do not inflate tires above the pressure recommended by the tire

manufacturer. If you do, the tire may explode or the wheel rim may give
way and cause a blowout. The result will almost certainly be personal
injury.
Points to note
There are two main types of tire pressure gauges fixed workshop
gauges and portable pocket size gauges.
The two most popular types of pocket tire pressure gauges are the pencil
type and the dial type.
The pencil type looks similar to a pencil and contains a graduated sliding
extension that is forced out of the sleeve by air pressure when it is
attached to the tire valve.
The dial type has a similar fitting to the pencil type but includes a
graduated gauge and needle.
Each gauge measures pressures in either pounds per square inch (PSI),
kilopascals (kPa) or bar.
One bar is equivalent to 100 kPa and 14.5 PSI.
One PSI is equivalent to around 7 kPa. Some gauges have scales for both
units of measurement.
Pocket type tire pressure gauges are inexpensive and more accurate than
the gauges provided by service stations. Service station gauges are often
damaged by weather, misuse or being run over.
There may also be a significant difference in readings between one service

station tire pressure gauge and the gauge from another service station.
If the same pocket type tire pressure gauge is always used to check tire
pressures, then there will be no variation of readings.
The tire pressure will vary from vehicle to vehicle, its use and driver
preference. Recommended tire pressures are located on the vehicle
manufacturer's tire decal. The recommended maximum tire pressure is
located on the tire sidewall. Never inflate the tire above the recommended
maximum pressure. The tire may explode, or the wheel rim may give way
and cause a blowout.

1. Remove the valve cap
First, remove the valve cap from the tire valve. Be sure to place it where
you can find it later!
2. Fit pencil gauge to the valve

Make sure the graduated sleeve is seated into the gauge body, and then
push the tire gauge chuck firmly onto the head of the valve. If air escapes,
adjust the angle and your hand pressure until no more air leaks out.
3. Read the scale
When the graduated sleeve slides out, remove the gauge from the valve
without moving the sleeve and examine the scale.
4. Add the numbers
Read the bottom number, then count the marks. Add them up, and youll
find the tire pressure
5. Examine dial gauge
When using a dial type gauge, check the graduations on the dial. They
may be in pounds per square inch, or if its a metric gauge they will be in
kilopascals or bar. Many gauges have all three graduations: PSI,
kilopascals and bar. Once again, remove the valve cap and put it in a safe
place.
6. Attach the gauge to the valve
Attach the dial pressure gauge to the top of the valve. Adjust your hand
pressure and angle, so that no air is escaping from the valve.
7. Read the gauge
When the needle has jumped, remove the gauge from the valve, and read
the dial. The numbers are by tens, and the marks between are units.
8. Reset the gauge
Reset the dial gauge to zero by pressing the button on the neck of the dial.
Repeat the procedure for all wheels. Remember to replace the valve cap
on each wheel as you go.
9. Check your results
Check your tire pressure readings against the specifications in the shop
service manual. You will also find a tire decal listing the recommended tire
size and pressures. This is usually located on the drivers door, drivers
door pillar or glove compartment lid.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
Vehicle hoists
20. Summary
21.
Vehicle hoists a come in a range of configurations and are designed to meet the particular needs of the workshop. NEVER exceed the safe
working load for the lift and always follow the manufacturer loading and operation instructions.
22.
23.
Vehicle hoists raise whole vehicles off the ground so that a technician can more easily work on those parts that are accessible only towards
ground level or from underneath.
24.
There are a number of different designs and they come in a range of sizes and configurations to meet the particular needs of the workshop. For
instance, there are hoists that are mobile, hoists that are designed for use where the ceiling height is limited, and some lifting machines can be
linked together electronically so they can be used on longer vehicles such as trucks and buses.
25.
The most common types of hoist in general use are known as two-post and four-post hoists:
26.
Four-post
hoist
A four-post hoist is very easy to use. The vehicle is driven between the four posts so that the wheels are resting on two long and narrow
platforms, one on each side of the vehicle. The platforms are then raised up, taking the vehicle with them. The underside of the vehicle is
accessible, but it is resting on its wheels, so these cannot be removed while the vehicle is on a four-post hoist.
27.
Two-post
hoist
A two-post hoist requires careful positioning of the padded ends of four short arms so that they are under appropriate lifting points, two on each
side of the vehicle. The workshop manual for the vehicle will detail where those lifting points are so that the vehicle can be raised without
causing structural damage. A two-post hoist leaves the underside of the vehicle very accessible, and also allows a technician to remove the
wheels while the vehicle is raised.
28.
A single post hoist raises the vehicle on a platform supported by a single solid shaft located centrally under the vehicle. This type of hoist is very
compact in the workshop and leaves the perimeter of the vehicle very accessible, but the central post obscures part of the underside of the
vehicle.
29.
Other types of hoist include: scissor lifts; parallelogram lifts; and mobile or specialty lifts.
30.
Safety
locks
Every workshop hoist must have a locking device built into it so that the hoist can be secured at the chosen height after the vehicle has been
raised. This locking device prevents the vehicle from being accidentally lowered, and holds the vehicle in place, even if the lifting mechanism
fails.
31.
Technicians should never physically go under a raised vehicle for any reason unless the safety locking mechanism has been activated.
32.
Ratings
and
inspections
All hoists are rated for a particular weight and/or type of vehicle, and should never be used for any task other than that recommended by the
manufacturer. In particular, a hoist should never be used to lift a vehicle that is heavier than its rated limit.
33.
In most countries, there are regulations that require hoists to be periodically inspected and certified as fit for use usually annually. Before you
use a hoist, check the identification plate for its rating, and make sure that is has a current registration or certification label.
Jacks
Summary
Vehicle jacks are used to lift the vehicle and/or to support large components
when removing or fitting them from/into a vehicle. All jacks should be regarded
as a lifting tool and NOT a supporting tool.
Vehicle jacks are lifting tools used to raise part of a vehicle from the ground prior
to removing or fitting components, or to raise heavy components into position.
A jack can be used to raise and support the appropriate part of the vehicle while
changing a wheel at the roadside, but a jack must NOT be used to support the
weight of the vehicle during any task which requires the technician to get
underneath any part of the vehicle.
For all workshop tasks, a jack should only be used to raise the vehicle so that it
can then be lowered onto suitably rated and carefully positioned stable jack
stands. All jacks must always be used in accordance with the manufacturer's
instructions and should be inspected on a regular basis to ensure that they are in
full working order.
There are different jacks available for different purposes, including:
Trolley jacks
High lift (or farm) jacks
Bottle jacks
Air Jacks
Scissor Jacks
Fork Lift Jacks
Sliding bridge jacks
Transmission jacks
Make sure that you always use the correct type of jack with the correct weightbearing capacity for your task.
Stands
Summary
There are a range of types of stands. Each of these types are designed for a
particular application and should NEVER be used for a job for which they not
recommended.
Jack stands or axle stands are adjustable supports that are used with vehicle
jacks and are designed to take the weight of the vehicle after the vehicle has
been raised by a jack. When they are positioned correctly the vehicle can be
lowered onto the stands, and the jack can be moved out of the way.
Lifting devices are also lowering devices, so it is unsafe to work underneath a
vehicle that is supported only by a jack, in case it gives way or is accidentally
lowered. Jack stands provide a stable support for a raised vehicle that is safer
because the vehicle cannot be accidentally lowered while the stands are in place.
To lower a vehicle that is on stands, it has to be raised again first, so that the
stands can be removed.
There are different types of stand, each designed for a particular application.
Stands should never be used for a job for which they not recommended. They
normally come in matched pairs and should always be used as a pair. Stands are
load rated, and should only be used for loads less than the rating indicated on
the stand.
Engine & component hoists
Summary
Engine hoists are designed to be used for lifting engines and other large
components during removal and/or fitting to a vehicle. It is important that the
equipment together with the chains and/or straps are not used to lift engines or
components outside of their limitations as accidents can occur as a result.
Engine hoists, or mobile floor cranes, are capable of lifting very heavy objects
such as engines while they are being removed from a vehicle or refitted.
The lifting arm is moved by a hydraulic cylinder and is adjustable for length,
although extending the arm reduces its lifting capacity. The supporting legs can
also be extended for stability, but the more that both the arm and legs are
extended the lower the lifting capacity of the hoist. The safe lifting capacity at
various extensions is marked on the arm, and it is important never to exceed the
rated weight of the hoist.
The engine or component to be lifted is attached to the arm by a sling or a lifting
chain. These too must be rated as capable of lifting weights in excess of the
engine or component being lifted, and must be firmly attached before the hoist is
raised.
When the engine or other component has been lifted and slowly and carefully
moved away from the vehicle, it should be lowered onto an engine stand, or onto
the floor. The further off the ground an engine is lifted, the less stable the hoist
becomes.
Never use a hoist to lift any weight greater than the lifting capacity of the hoist
or its sling or chains.
Using a two-post hoist
Summary
The objective of this procedure is to show you how to lift a vehicle using a twopost hoist. The lifting capacity of the hoist you are using must be rated for a
vehicle weight greater than that of the vehicle you are intending to lift. Check
the hoist rating and compare it with the weight given in the vehicle service
manual.
Objective
Lift a vehicle using a two-post hoist.
Personal safety
Safety check
Points to note
Before lifting any vehicle, make sure the frame is structurally sound. If you
see rust or signs of major repair, lifting the vehicle with a hoist may cause
damage to the vehicle or may be dangerous to you.
The lifting capacity of the hoist you are using must be rated for a vehicle
weight greater than that of the vehicle you are intending to lift. Check the
hoist rating and compare it with the weight given in the vehicle service
manual.
Make sure you know exactly how to operate the hoist. Take particular care
that you know exactly where the "stop" control is so that you can use it
quickly in an emergency. Refer to the operations manual for the correct
procedure.
Be sure the hoist is fully lowered before positioning the vehicle over it.
Check the amount of clearance under the vehicle. Driving a low-slung
vehicle over the lifting mechanism may result in damage to the underside
of the vehicle.
The lifting points on a vehicle are typically located under the jacking
points. Check the vehicle service manual if you are not sure where the lift
points are. The lifting arms must be positioned under the center of the lift
points, so that the weight of the vehicle is distributed evenly.
Make sure that there will be adequate headroom above the vehicle after it
has been raised. Taller vehicles, especially those fitted with roof racks,
may need more headroom than you think.
The hoist should be raised so you can comfortably work under it. Lock the
lift in place before moving underneath or working on the vehicle.

1. Read instructions
Read the safety instructions that are provided with the hoist. They should
be displayed near the lift operating controls. Check the hydraulic system
for leaks. Make sure there are no oil spills around or under the hoist.
2. Prepare the hoist

The hoist should be completely down before you attempt to drive the
vehicle onto it. You should also check the arms and pads for any signs of
damage. Check under the vehicle to make sure there are no parts which
will interfere with the hoist operation and that the vehicle is structurally
sound and not badly corroded. Check the vehicles service manual or your
workshop service manual and locate the correct contact points for the
lifting pads.
3. Position the vehicle
Carefully drive the vehicle onto the hoist and position it centrally. Leave
the vehicle in neutral with the emergency brake off. You may need to
move the car forward or backward to allow the arms to swing under the
car. Position the lifting pads under the vehicle lifting points. Make sure the
lifting pads are adjusted to the same height for both sides of the vehicle.
4. Raise the hoist to the vehicle
Move to the operating controls and raise the hoist just far enough to come
into contact with the vehicle. Make sure that the lifting pads are positioned
centrally under the contact points.
5. Raise the vehicle slightly
Make sure nobody is near the vehicle, and then raise it just far enough for
the wheels to be off the floor. Check the position of the lifting pads to
make sure they have not moved, and shake the vehicle gently to confirm
that it is stable on the hoist.
6. Raise the vehicle completely
Once you are sure the vehicle is safely positioned on the hoist, lift it to the
working height.
7. Engage safety device
With the vehicle at the correct height you should now lock the hoist in
place and engage whatever safety device is used with it.
8. Lower the vehicle
Before the hoist is lowered, remove all tools and equipment from the hoist
area, and wipe up any spilled fluids. Remove the safety device or unlock
the lift before lowering it. Make sure nobody is near the vehicle on the
hoist before lowering it. Once the vehicle is on the ground you can remove
the lifting arms and drive it away from the hoist.

Using a four-post hoist
Summary
Four-post hoists allow the vehicle to be positioned and lifted easily. They are
often used to lift a vehicle for wheel alignment services and brake repairs. The
objective of this procedure is to show you how to lift a vehicle using a four-post
hoist.
Objective
Lift a vehicle using a four-post hoist.
Personal safety
Safety check
Points to note
Four-post hoists allow the vehicle to be positioned and lifted easily. They
are often used to lift a vehicle for wheel alignment services and brake
repairs.
Some four-post hoists are fitted with attachments that allow the vehicle to
be raised in a "wheels free" position. Refer to the operations manual for
the correct operational procedure.
The lifting capacity of the hoist you are using must be rated for a vehicle
weight greater than that of the vehicle you are intending to lift. Check the
hoist rating and compare it with the weight given in the vehicle service
manual.
Make sure you know exactly how to operate the hoist, taking particular
care to know exactly where the stop control is so that you can use it
quickly in an emergency. Refer to the operations manual for the correct
procedure for stopping the hoist.
Make sure that there will be adequate headroom above the vehicle after it
has been raised. Taller vehicles, especially those fitted with roof racks,
may need more headroom than you think.
The hoist should be raised so you can comfortably work under it. Lock the
lift in place before moving underneath or working on the vehicle.

1. Read instructions
Read the safety instructions that are provided with the hoist. They should
be displayed near the lift operating controls. Check the hydraulic system
for any leaks, and the steel cables for any sign of damage. Make sure
there are no oil spills around or under the hoist.
2. Prepare the hoist
The hoist should be completely down before you attempt to drive the car
on to it. The platform may have built in wheel restraints, or attachments
for wheel alignment equipment. A set of bars is mounted at the front of
each ramp to prevent the vehicle from being driven off the front of the
hoist. At the back there will be ramps that allow the vehicle to be driven
up and on to the hoist. These will lift up when the hoist is raised and
prevent the vehicle from rolling off.
Drive the vehicle slowly and carefully onto the hoist and position it
centrally. If the vehicle has front wheel restraints, drive the vehicle forward
until the wheels lock into the brackets. Get out of the vehicle and check
that its correctly positioned on the platform. If it is, apply the emergency
brake and select first gear or park.
4. Raise the vehicle
Make sure the hoist area is clear. Move to the controls and lift the vehicle
until its reached the appropriate work height.
5. Lock safety device
Most 4 -post hoists will have an automatic locking mechanism. If the hoist
has a manual safety mechanism you should lock it in place to engage
whatever safety device is used.
6. Lower the vehicle
Before the hoist is lowered, remove all tools and equipment from the hoist
area, and wipe up any spilled fluids. Remove the safety device or unlock
the lift before lowering it. Make sure that nobody is near the vehicle or the
hoist. Once the hoist is fully lowered you can drive the vehicle off the
hoist.
Using an engine hoist
Summary
Mobile floor cranes are capable of lifting very heavy objects, which make them
suitable for lifting engines. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to
use an engine hoist and choose the correct attachments to lift an engine.
Objective
Use an engine hoist and choose the correct attachments to lift an engine.
Personal safety
Safety check
The weight rating of the crane or hoist must be greater than the weight of
the object to be lifted.
Never leave an unsupported engine hanging on a shop crane. Secure the

engine on an engine stand, or on the ground, before starting to work on it.
If using engine stands, make sure they are designed to support the weight
of the object you are lifting.
Always extend the legs of the engine hoist in relation to the lifting arm to
ensure adequate stability.
Points to note
Mobile floor cranes are capable of lifting very heavy objects, which make
them suitable for lifting engines.
The lifting arm is moved by a hydraulic cylinder and is adjustable for

length. If the arm is lengthened, the lifting capacity of the arm is reduced.
The weight limit is usually marked on the arm so that the arm or the
hydraulic mechanism is not damaged by attempting to lift too heavy a
load.
Make sure the lifting attachment at the end of the lifting arm is strong
enough to lift the engine and is not damaged or cracked.
When attaching the lifting chain, or sling, to an engine make sure it is

firmly attached and that the hoist is configured to lift that weight. Make
sure that the fasteners attaching the lifting chain, or sling, have a tensile
strength that is in excess of the weight of the engine.
Leave enough length in the sling so that when the engine is hanging, the
angle at the top of the sling is close to 45 degrees and not exceeding 90
degrees.
If removing an engine from an engine bay, once it is lifted free and away
from the vehicle, lower the engine so that it is close to the ground. If the
engine is lifted high in the air, the hoist will be unstable.
When moving a suspended engine, move the hoist slowly. Do not change
direction quickly because the engine will swing and may cause the whole
apparatus to tumble.

1. Position the hoist
Make sure the weight rating of the lifting crane is greater than the weight
of the object youre lifting. In this case, youll be lifting and moving an
engine. Lower the lifting arm and position the lifting end and chain over
the center of the engine.
2. Inspect the lifting attachments
Inspect the chain, steel cable or sling and bolts to make sure they are in
sound condition. They must be strong enough to support the weight of the
engine. The sling should be long enough so when you lift the engine the
angle at the top of the sling is about forty-five degrees.
3. Locate the lifting points
Look carefully around the engine to determine if it has lifting eyes or
other anchor points
4. Attach the hoist sling
If the engine has lifting eyes, attach the sling with D shackles or chain
hooks. If you need to screw in bolts and spacer washers to lift the engine,
make sure you use the correct bolt and spacer size for the chain or cable.
Screw the bolts until the sling is held tight against the engine.
5. Attach the hoist hook
Attach the hook of the hoist under the center of the sling and raise the
hoist just enough to lift the engine an inch or two. Double-check the sling
and attachment points for safety. The center of gravity of the engine
should be directly under the hook of the hoist, and there should be no
twists or kinks in the chain or sling.
6. Raise the engine
Raise the hoist high enough so that the engine is clear of the ground and
any obstacles. Slowly and gently move the hoist and engine to its new
position.
7. Lower the engine
Lower the engine until it touches the ground. Making sure it is positioned
correctly. You may need to place spacers under the engine to stabilize it.
Once you are sure the engine is stable lower the hoist, remove the sling
and any securing fasteners, then return the equipment to its storage area.
Using a floor jack
Summary
Hydraulic and pneumatic jacks are the most common. They can be mounted on
slides or on a wheeled trolley.The size of jack you use will be determined by the
weight of the vehicle you want to lift. The objective of this procedure is to show
you how to lift and secure a vehicle with a floor jack and jack stands.
Objective
Lift and secure a vehicle with a floor jack and jack stands.
Personal safety
Safety check
Make sure the jack and stands you are using are suitable for the job.
Never lift a vehicle that is heavier than the jack's rated capacity.
Always use matched pairs of jack stands.
Never support a vehicle on anything other than jack stands.
Do not use wood or steel blocks to support the vehicle. They may slide or
split under the weight of the vehicle.
Do not use bricks to support the vehicle. They will shatter under the
weight of the vehicle.
Points to note
There are three types of workshop jacks: hydraulic, pneumatic and

mechanical.
Hydraulic and pneumatic jacks are the most common. They can be
mounted on slides or on a wheeled trolley.
The size of jack you use will be determined by the weight of the vehicle
you want to lift. Most workshops will have a jack that has a lifting capacity
of about 2 tons/tonnes. If the vehicle is heavier than that, or if the
vehicle is loaded, you will need to use a jack with a larger lifting capacity.
Always check the vehicle service manual or owner's manual to determine

the best position to support a vehicle. Some vehicles require special
attachments to be fitted before they can be lifted.
Do not jack or support a vehicle under any independent suspension

components. They are not strong enough to support the weight of the
vehicle.
Make sure the vehicle is positioned on a firm level surface.
Make sure the jack stands are in good condition before you use them to
support the vehicle. If they are cracked or bent, they will not support the
vehicle safely.

Position the vehicle on a flat, solid surface. Put the vehicle into first gear or
park and set the emergency brake. Then place blocks in front of and
behind the wheels that arent going to be raised off the ground.
2. Inspect the floor jack
Before you try to use the jack, check for leaks in the hydraulic system.
Check the pad, or saddle, and the wheels of the jack. They should rotate
freely and show no signs of damage. Check the manufacturers label on
the jack. The specifications will tell you the maximum load weight it will
bear, so it must suit the vehicle you want to raise.
3. Check the vehicle handbook
Refer to the owners manual to find out where you can safely place the
jack. This is usually a major point on the chassis, a cross member or axle
unit.
4. Select the jack safety stands
Before operating the jack, select two safety stands of the same type,
suitable for the weight of the vehicle. Check the stands for any cracks, and
if necessary lubricate the threaded adjusting post with a few drops of
engine oil. Place one stand on each side of the vehicle at the same point.
Adjust them so that they are both the same height, and high enough to
slip under the vehicle once youve raised it.
5. Position the jack
Roll the jack under the vehicle, and make sure the pad, or saddle, is
positioned correctly under the frame or cross member. Turn the valve on
the top of the jack handle clockwise, and begin pumping the handle up
and down until the jack pad touches and begins to lift the vehicle.
6. Check position of jack
Once the wheels lift off the floor, stop and check the placement of the jack
pad under the vehicle to make sure theres no danger of slipping. Double
check the position of the wheel blocks to make sure they havent moved. If
the vehicle is stable, continue lifting it until its at the height where you
can safely work under it.
7. Position the safety stands
Slide the two jack safety stands underneath the vehicle. Make sure theyre
positioned at a point that can support the weight. Both stands should be
adjusted to the same height and placed as far apart as practical.
8. Lower the vehicle onto the stands
Turn the valve on the jack handle counter-clockwise and gently lower the
vehicle onto the stands. When the vehicle has settled onto the stands,
lower the jack completely and remove it from under the vehicle. Repeat
this process to lift the other end of the vehicle. Be aware that the vehicle
is now supported on jack stands and will not be as stable as it would if the
wheels were on the ground. When youve finished working under the
vehicle, make sure youve removed all tools and equipment before you
attempt to lower it.
9. Raise the vehicle off the stands
Use the jack to raise the vehicle off the safety stands. Slide out the safety
stands from under the vehicle.
10.Lower the vehicle
Turn the valve on the jack handle counter-clockwise very gently to lower
the vehicle to the ground. Do not allow the vehicle to drop quickly or you
may cause serious damage. Return the floor jack, the safety stands and
the wheel wedges to their storage area before you continue working on
the vehicle.
Setting up an oxyacetylene torch
Summary
An oxyacetylene torch can produce a large amount of heat. Be aware that any
objects you direct the flame towards will become hot. Always light the
oxyacetylene torch with the striker. A cigarette lighter or match would put your
hand too close to the igniting tip. The objective of this procedure is to show you
how to set up an oxyacetylene torch for heating.
Objective
Set up an oxyacetylene torch for heating.
Personal safety
Safety check
Oxygen and acetylene cylinders must be securely stored in an upright

position.
An oxyacetylene torch can produce a large amount of heat. Be aware that

any objects you direct the flame towards will become hot.
Always have a suitable fire extinguisher near your work area.
Do not use an oxyacetylene torch near any flammable materials.
Points to note
If a cylinder falls over and breaks the main valve off, the cylinder will
become a missile and cause extreme damage.
Wear a leather apron or similar protective clothing and welding gloves

when using an oxyacetylene torch. T-shirts, nylon and polyester blend
clothing will not provide enough protection. Ultraviolet light and sparks of
hot metal will pass through them.
Always use proper welding goggles. Do not use sunglasses because they
do not filter the extreme ultraviolet light as effectively. The plastic used in
sunglass lenses will not protect your eyes from sparks.
Never point the lighted flame toward another person or any flammable
material.
Always light the oxyacetylene torch with the striker. A cigarette lighter or
match would put your hand too close to the igniting tip.
Wherever possible, use a heat shield behind the component you are
heating. This will prevent nearby objects from becoming hot.
After heating a piece of metal, label it as "HOT" with a piece of chalk so

that others will not attempt to pick it up.

1. Check equipment
First, make sure that the gas flow from both the oxygen and the acetylene
cylinders is turned off tightly. The two cylinders are secured in an upright
position. This is usually on a wheeled trolley. Look at the hose pressure
and cylinder pressure gauges on top of each cylinder. Both gauges on
each cylinder should read zero. If both gauges do not read zero, turn the
main cylinder valve on the top of the cylinder clockwise, to close it
completely. Then you must purge the system of any gas.
2. Purge the system
To purge the system, make sure the main cylinder valve is closed tightly.
Pick up the torch handle and note that it has two hoses attached. One
hose supplies acetylene, the other oxygen. Turn the oxygen regulator
under the gauges clockwise, and open the oxygen valve on the handle.
This will purge any gas that may still be in the system and the gauges
should both drop back to zero. Repeat this procedure with the acetylene
cylinder.
3. Install the torch handle
The torch handle is the connection between the hoses and the working
tips. It consists of a body and two taps. Its used for both welding and
heating. Different attachments are connected to the handle to enable
welding, heating or cutting. Examine the connections. One connection is
marked OX, and is for the oxygen hose. The other is marked AC, and is
for the acetylene hose.
4. Connect the hoses
As a further safety precaution, youll find the oxygen connector is right
hand thread and the acetylene connector is a left hand thread.
5. Install the correct tip
Welding tips come in sizes that are stamped with a number. Number one is
the smallest tip. The larger the number, the larger the tip and the greater
the heat that it will provide. Select the tip size suitable for the heating task
and screw it onto the end of the torch handle. Hold the torch handle in
your hand, so that you can comfortably adjust the oxygen and acetylene
taps. Position the tip so that it faces away from you. Gently tighten the tipsecuring fitting.
6. Adjust the pressure of the gas flow
You are now ready to adjust the gas pressure for heating. Look at the two
valves on the torch handle. The valve next to the oxygen hose controls the
flow of oxygen to the tip. Close it tightly clockwise. The valve next to the
acetylene hose controls the flow of acetylene to the tip. Also, close it
tightly clockwise.
7. Turn on the gases
Now that youre ready to use the torch, turn the main valve on the top of
each cylinder counter-clockwise half a turn to open the valve. The needle
on the cylinder pressure gauge will rise to show you the pressure in the
cylinder. Turn the oxygen regulator handle clockwise until the needle in the
gauge registers 10 PSI. Turn the acetylene regulator handle clockwise until
the needle in the gauge registers 5 PSI. This is your working pressure for
heating.
8. Check the area
Before you light the torch, check the area youre working in to make sure
there are no flammable materials or fluids nearby. Workmates should also
be clear of the area. The welding flame is not only extremely hot; it also
produces dangerous ultra violet rays, which will damage your eyes. It is
absolutely vital that you are wearing the right safety gear: gloves and
tinted goggles or face mask. So put them on and adjust them comfortably.
9. Ignite the torch
Now you are ready to ignite the torch with the striker. The tip of the torch
must be pointing downwards away from your body and away from the gas
cylinders. Turn the acetylene valve on the torch handle slightly towards
the ON position. You should hear the gas hissing. Hold the striker against
the tip of the torch with the lighter cup between the torch and you. Flick
the striker to create the spark that will ignite the gas at the tip of the
torch. Open the acetylene valve slowly until the sooty smoke produced by
the torch disappears. Then slowly open the oxygen valve on the torch
handle.
10.Adjust the flame
As you open the oxygen valve, you will see the color of the flame change.
The pure acetylene flame is yellow, and it will change to blue as you add
the oxygen. Continue to open the oxygen valve until you can observe a
small, sharp blue cone in the center of the torch flame. This is the
neutral flame you need for general heating.
Using an oxyacetylene torch
Summary
The objective of this procedure is to show you how to use an oxyacetylene torch
for heating. Wear a leather apron or similar protective clothing and welding
gloves when using an oxyacetylene torch and always use proper welding
goggles.
Objective
Use an oxyacetylene torch for heating.
Personal safety
Safety check

position.

Points to note

material.


1. Light the torch and adjust neutral flame
Light the torch and adjust the gas flow so that you have a neutral flame.
2. Heat for 'Removal'
Place a flywheel and ring gear assembly on a set of insulating spacers, to
elevate it from the working surface. Direct the flame onto the ring gear
and apply the heat until smoke starts to appear. Stop applying the heat. At
this stage, the ring gear is hot enough to remove by gently tapping with a
hammer and drift. DO NOT TOUCH the metal with your hands. Use welding
Gloves and tools that are designed for use in a hot environment.
3. Heat to 'Red Hot'

Direct the flame to the component you wish to heat. If the component is
made from thin metal it will heat quicker than one that is thicker. Apply the
heat evenly, until you notice the object begin to glow red. Once the glow is
uniform, the metal will now be hot enough to manipulate. Once again DO
NOT TOUCH the metal with your hands. Use welding gloves and tools that
are designed for use in a hot environment.
4. Shut down
When you have finished the job, you will need to shut down the
equipment. Turn off the acetylene valve on the torch handle. This will
extinguish the flame. Turn off the oxygen valve on the torch handle. Next,
remove your safety goggles or mask and your welding gloves. Turn the
main cylinder valve clockwise on the top of both gas cylinders. Now open
the two valves on the torch handle to bleed the system. Turn both the
oxygen and acetylene regulator handles counter-clockwise until they are
loose. Close both valves on the torch handle. Put the handle and tips
away, and return the gas cylinders and their hoses to their proper storage
area.
Using an oxyacetylene torch
Summary
The objective of this procedure is to show you how to use an oxyacetylene torch
for heating. Wear a leather apron or similar protective clothing and welding
gloves when using an oxyacetylene torch and always use proper welding
goggles.
Objective
Use an oxyacetylene torch for heating.
Personal safety
Safety check

position.

Points to note

material.


1. Light the torch and adjust neutral flame
Light the torch and adjust the gas flow so that you have a neutral flame.
2. Heat for 'Removal'
Place a flywheel and ring gear assembly on a set of insulating spacers, to
elevate it from the working surface. Direct the flame onto the ring gear
and apply the heat until smoke starts to appear. Stop applying the heat. At
this stage, the ring gear is hot enough to remove by gently tapping with a
hammer and drift. DO NOT TOUCH the metal with your hands. Use welding
Gloves and tools that are designed for use in a hot environment.
3. Heat to 'Red Hot'
Direct the flame to the component you wish to heat. If the component is
made from thin metal it will heat quicker than one that is thicker. Apply the
heat evenly, until you notice the object begin to glow red. Once the glow is
uniform, the metal will now be hot enough to manipulate. Once again DO
NOT TOUCH the metal with your hands. Use welding gloves and tools that
are designed for use in a hot environment.
4. Shut down
When you have finished the job, you will need to shut down the
equipment. Turn off the acetylene valve on the torch handle. This will
extinguish the flame. Turn off the oxygen valve on the torch handle. Next,
remove your safety goggles or mask and your welding gloves. Turn the
main cylinder valve clockwise on the top of both gas cylinders. Now open
the two valves on the torch handle to bleed the system. Turn both the
oxygen and acetylene regulator handles counter-clockwise until they are
loose. Close both valves on the torch handle. Put the handle and tips
away, and return the gas cylinders and their hoses to their proper storage
area.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
Decoding a VIN
12.
13.
14.
15. Summary
16.
Every vehicle carries a unique Vehicle Identification Number, which encodes essential information about it, such as what kind of vehicle it is,
who manufactured it, where, and when
17.
There are two different, but essentially compatible 17-digit Vehicle Identification Number standards. The North American VIN system, and
International Standard ISO 3779, which is used in most of the rest of the world.
18.
These tables show how the numbers are structured:
19.
1
North America
Manufacturer
Identifier
20.
1
4 5 6 7 8 9
10
11
1
2
Vehicle
Attributes
Model
Year
Plant
Code
Sequential Number
Check
Digit
1
3
1
4
1
5
1
6
1
7
ISO 3779
2
WMI
World Manufacturer
Identifier
VDS
Vehicle Descriptor
System
21.
Here is how an example of a North American VIN would be decoded:
1
0
1
1
1
2
1
3
1
4
1
5
1
6
VIS
Vehicle Identifier System
1
7
22.
23.
24.
First digit (country of origin)
This number or letter tells you where the vehicle was manufactured. For instance, a '1' means that the vehicle was made in the United States, a
'2' is for Canada, a 'J' means Japan and so on.
25.
26.
27.
28.
Second digit (manufacturer)
This digit is usually a letter, and will tell you the name of the Manufacturer; in this case the vehicle was made by General Motors.
29.
30.
31.
32.
Third digit (division)
This digit will tell you the Division that made the car. It could be a Pontiac, an Oldsmobile or a GMC truck. Here it is Chevrolet.
33.
34.
35.
36.
37.
38.
Fourth & fifth digits (model and series)
These two digits will give you the model, or series, of the vehicle. You'll need a decoding chart for the details; here we have a standard Corvette.
39.
40.
Sixth digit (body type)
This digit describes the body type: 2-door, 4-door, coupe, sedan and so on.
41.
42.
43.
44.
Seventh digit (seat belt system)
This digit tells you the type of seat restraints fitted to the vehicle. In this case it is Manual belts.
45.
46.
47.
48.
Eighth digit (engine code)
This digit is the Engine code, which will let you find details of the engine type, size, or displacement, and where the engine was made.
49.
50.
51.
52.
Ninth digit (check digit)
This is the Check digit. It is used internally by the manufacturer.
53.
54.
55.
56.
57.
Tenth digit (year of manufacture)
This letter will tell you the Year of Manufacture. You can decode the digit according to a chart, which in this example shows us that the vehicle
was assembled in 1984.
58.
59.
60.
Eleventh digit (factory code)
This digit tells you the Assembly Plant or Factory where the vehicle was put together. In this case it is Bowling Green Kentucky.
61.
62.
63.
64.
Last six digits (plant sequential number)
The final six numbers make up the sequential number of the vehicle as it comes off the assembly line plus one hundred thousand (100000). So
the first vehicle to be produced will have the number 100001. In our example, the vehicle was the thirty-eight thousand two hundred and twentyseventh to come off the assembly line in that year.
65.
Obtaining & interpreting scan tool data
Summary
The objective of this procedure is to show you how to retrieve, record and clear
stored OBD I & II diagnostic trouble codes using a scan tool. Remember, when
retrieving codes for an OBD I vehicle, clear the codes then start the vehicle and
recheck for any codes that reset. When diagnosing and OBD II vehicle, do not
clear the codes until the vehicle is repaired.
Objective
Retrieve, record and clear stored OBD I & II diagnostic trouble codes using
a scan tool.
Personal safety
Safety check
If the the vehicle is to be run inside the workshop use exhaust extraction
hoses.
Output solenoids can be energized from the scan tool, activating

components without warning. It is imperative that the operator should
follow the service manual procedures.
Points to note
Make sure that you follow service manual procedures for the vehicle you
are working on.
The standard procedure for retrieving codes for an OBD I vehicle, is to

access the codes, write them down, clear the codes, start the vehicle and
recheck for any codes that reset.
The standard procedure for diagnosing an OBD II vehicle is different as it

requires that the codes should NOT be cleared until the vehicle is repaired.
Clearing the codes also clears all of the freeze frame data in the system
that is useful for the diagnosis process.
It may take several 'trips' for the code to reset, so with OBDII you must
complete the diagnosis process first before clearing the codes.
Always check for any applicable service bulletins when diagnosing

computer related problems, as they can provide valuable information
about new faults that emerge on vehicles as their operational
characteristics change as the vehicles get older.

1. Connect the scan tool
Locate the scan tool access point and connect the scan tool using the
appropriate connector for the vehicle. Turn on the vehicle ignition. Turn on
the scan tool. Run the scan tool diagnostic program and navigate through
each of the different systems in turn to access the diagnostic trouble
codes from the vehicles electronic control module. Note your findings for
each vehicle system.
2. Check your findings
Look up what each code means and present the information to your
supervisor. Any fault indicated by the diagnostic trouble codes will need to
be corrected before you clear the codes.
3. Clear fault codes
To clear the fault codes from the vehicle, select the delete codes option on
the scan tool. Check that the codes have cleared, and turn off the vehicle
ignition.
4. Recheck for fault codes
Turn on the vehicle ignition. Run the scan tool diagnostic program and
navigate through each system again to check the codes do not reactivate.
If the fault codes reactivate, take your findings to your supervisor. Turn off
the vehicle ignition. Turn off the scan tool and disconnect from the access
point.
Using a repair manual
Summary
Repair manuals are produced by a second party publisher and provide
information similar to a shop manual. However, the information contained in the
repair manual will not be as specific as that contained in a shop manual. The
objective of this procedure is to show you how to locate specifications and the
correct procedure in a repair manual.
Objective
Locate specifications and the correct procedure in a repair manual.
Personal safety
Safety check
Points to note
Repair manuals are produced by a second party publisher and provide

information similar to a shop manual. However, the information contained
in the repair manual will not be as specific as that contained in a shop
manual.
Repair manuals are designed so that the workshops that do not have
access to shop manuals have a reference source for service and repair
information and specifications.

1. Understand information required
Decide what information it is that you need to know about the job and
about the vehicle. In this example the job is to replace the front brake disc
pads. Make sure you know the make, model and year of manufacture of
the vehicle.
2. Locate the appropriate manual
In this case, the workshop does not have the shop manual for this type of
vehicle, but it is likely that the information needed can be found in an
aftermarket manual. Find the appropriate After Market Manual for the
make, model and year of the vehicle you are working on.
3. Locate the correct section
At the front of the Manual you will find an Introduction and a Table of
Contents or a Section breakdown listing the various systems and
components of the vehicle. Find the chapter on Brakes and turn to that
page.
4. Locate the specifications
This page gives you a further index of contents, for the chapter. It also
gives you the manufacturers specifications for the various components of
the braking system, in this case we are interested in the front disc brakes.
It also has a guide to the torque wrench settings. Have these details handy
when you are performing the procedure.
5. Locate the service procedures
Find the section relating to the Front Disc Brakes, and turn to that page.
The Manual shows the procedure for replacing the front disc pads. The
photographs and diagrams will help you identify the parts of the assembly
and the steps to follow.
6. Use the index as alternative
Another way of finding the information you need is to use the Index at the
back of the manual. Look under B to find Brakes and youll see page
references for Specifications, and, Front Disc. We are now ready to begin
replacing the front disc pads.
Using a shop manual
Summary
The information found in shop manuals provides a systematic procedure,
identifies special tools and specifications relevant to the task. The objective of
this procedure is to show you how to use a shop manual to identify the correct
service procedure.
Objective
Use a shop manual to identify the correct service procedure.
Personal safety
Safety check
Points to note
Shop manuals are developed by manufacturers to provide the service

technician with correct information on performing all service and repair
tasks on the vehicles they produce.
The information found in shop manuals provides a systematic procedure,

identifies special tools and specifications relevant to the task.
Shop manuals are organized according to vehicle systems and have

indexes for quick reference needs.

Decide what information it is that you need to know. About the job and
about the vehicle. In this example, the job is to adjust, and possibly
replace, the breaker points in the distributor. Make sure you know the
make, model and year of manufacture of the vehicle, and the type and
size of the engine. In order to adjust and replace the breaker points you
need to know the procedure and specifications.
Find the appropriate Shop Manual for the make, model and year of the
vehicle you are working on.
The first page of the Shop Manual gives you the Group Index, or Section
Breakdown. All you want from this page is the Group or Section Number. In
this case it is the Ignition System Group 9.
Turn to Group 9, the Ignition System.
We see that its in three parts: General Ignition Service, Autolite Dual
Advance Distributors, and Specifications. Scan through the General
Ignition Section and, we find Common Adjustments and Repairs.
4. Locate the service procedures
Here we find the procedures to help you remove and replace the
distributor. The text and the pictures shows how to replace and install the
breaker points, as well as procedures to adjust breaker point alignment,
point gap, and spring tension. It shows you the tools to use, and how to
use them.
While this part of the Manual will give you the procedures, it does NOT
give you the precise specifications for a particular vehicle or adjustment.
For this information, we need to check the Specifications part of this
section. There are several pages of Specifications for the Distributor but
not the point gap specification. However by returning to the Head of this
Section, well find Engine Tune-up Specifications. Which refers us to
another part of the manual for the point gap specification. Turn to the
Engine Tune-Up Specifications page, and find the table on the distributor
point gap. At this point we need to know the engine-type of the vehicle to
find the correct specification. We are now ready to begin adjusting and
possibly replacing the breaker points.
Using an owner's manual
Summary
The vehicle manufacturer supplies owner's manuals to the vehicle's first or
original owners. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to use an
owner's manual to make sure that the correct lubricant specifications are used
when servicing the vehicle.
Objective
Use an owner's manual to make sure that the correct lubricant

specifications are used when servicing the vehicle.
Personal safety
Safety check
Points to note
The vehicle manufacturer supplies owner's manuals to the vehicle's first or

original owners.
The information contained in an owner's manual provides the owner with

information on:
All features of that particular vehicle
How to operate all vehicle controls and accessories
How to use vehicle security PIN codes
Warranty and service information
Basic vehicle specifications
Fuel, lubricant and coolant capacities
Tire changing, jacking and towing information
List of service outlets
The layout and amount of detail in an owner's manual will vary according
to the manufacturer and age of the vehicle. The procedure to use the
manual, however, will be common to all manuals.

about the vehicle. In this example, the job is to change the engine oil in
this vehicle. Make sure you know the make, model and year of
manufacture of the vehicle, and the type and size of the engine. In order
to change the oil you need to know the engine oil specifications. How
much oil to put in, and what grade of oil.
This kind of information is most readily found in the vehicle s owners
manual. Find the owners Manual this is usually kept in the glove
compartment. Open the Owners Manual to the first page which usually
has a Table of Contents, or a section breakdown to help you quickly find
the information you need. In this case its an older model car, and the
Index is in the front of the manual.
From the list of Chapters, or Sections, choose the section, which deals with
the engine oil. Here its titled Motor Oil. Follow the directions to the
correct page, and turn to that page.
In this case the page is headed Fuel, Oil and Coolant Recommendations.
Identify from this page the correct grade of motor oil for this vehicle. The
Manual refers you to another Page for the fuel and lubricant capacities so
turn to that page. The Chart tells you all of the vehicles lubricant
specifications. Find the correct specifications for the engine crankcase oil,
and make a note of these. Flip back one page to find the Refill Capacities.
The eight-cylinder engine requires five quarts or 4.8 liters of oil. A more
recent Owners Manual will have a table of Contents or a section
breakdown in the front with a Section or Chapter on Specifications.
5. Use the index as alternative
Another way of using a more recent Owners Manual is to refer to the
Index at the back of the book. Look under E for Engine, and find Engine
Oil, or Look under L for Lubricants or O for Oil. All of them should refer
you to the same place. We are now ready to begin servicing the vehicle.
Using a labor guide
Summary
The labor guide measures time as an average between the time taken by a
novice and the time taken by an experienced technician who has performed the
task many times. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to
understand and use a labor guide to calculate time and cost for a service
procedure.
Objective
Understand and use a labor guide to calculate time and cost for a service
procedure.
Personal safety
Safety check
Points to note
Labor guides are used by workshops as a guide to the amount of time a

set task should take to perform.
The labor guide measures time as an average between the time taken by
a novice and the time taken by an experienced technician who has
performed the task many times.
A workshop can determine a fair charge for any given service task by
using a labor guide.
The information contained within a labor guide is referenced in the same

manner as a service manual or repair manual.

about the vehicle. In this example, the job is to replace the front brake disc
pads. Make sure you know the make, model and year of manufacture of
the vehicle.
2. Locate the appropriate labor guide
We need to be able to estimate the cost or charge for the labor to
complete the job. To do this we use a Labor Guide
3. Understand the structure of the guide
Turn to the Contents Page. This Guide is divided up into cars, four wheel
drive, and light commercial vehicles. Then by Vehicle Systems and
Operations. This Operations breakdown also serves to define the sub tasks
involved in each operation. Vehicle Manufacturers, Models, and Engine
Type then appear as columns in the body of the manual. It also has
indexes to operation numbers, indexes to vehicle makes and models, and
introductory notes on: guidelines for using the manual, the meaning of
terms and calculating labor charges. Other Labor Guide publishers may
have different layouts and information, such as skill levels required for the
operations described. They may also cover heavier duty commercial
vehicles

Find the section for the appropriate manufacturer and model, using the
indexes to vehicle makes and models.
5. Locate the information
Turn to this section, and find the page on Disc Brakes, then find the
subsection on replacing or renewing the front disc brake pads. This tells
you the length of time for the operation on one wheel, so you must double
it for servicing the brakes on both front wheels. Find the correct column for
the vehicle model and engine type, and note the length of time to
complete this operation. The length of time is usually in hours and tenths
of an hour. So 0.6 hours represents 36 minutes.
6. Check for additional information
Note that the guide indicates to add the time for bleeding the brake
system if needed. So find the time for bleeding the brake system in case
you need to add it to your calculation.
7. Calculate the time and cost
We now have the correct figure to estimate the charge for the service.
Using a parts program
Summary
There is a range of computer-based parts programs on the market, the layout
may vary, but they will contain similar information. The objective of this
procedure is to show you how to use a computer or CD-ROM to locate parts
information.
Objective
Use a computer or CD-ROM to locate parts information.
Personal safety
Safety check
Points to note
Manufacturers may produce a CD-ROM that lists their parts and how to
order them.
Many workshops either have some parts in stock or use a local parts
house.
Some parts houses supply their own computer to look up parts and print
an invoice at their desk.

1. Start the system
There is a range of computer-based parts programs on the market, the
layout may vary, but they will contain similar information. First, you should
understand how to operate the computer. In the PC world, starting-up is
often known as booting the computer, which means, Turn the computer
on and log in, if you are required to. This step will depend on the type of
PC that you are using and whether it is stand alone, on a local network
or needs to be connected to the internet to operate the software. The way
that you do this depends on your work situation, so its a good idea to get
a fellow worker to show you how to log on in your particular workplace
environment.
2. Understand the software application
Read the information on the software package, or if youre on the internet
the information about the software application or website. Most of the
programs have Help sections, which provide details of how to access the
various components within the software itself. The details on the package
will also tell you how to install or access the data. Once you have become
familiar with the operating functions of the software you are ready to start
accessing data
3. Access the parts software application
We need to find the correct front brake pads for a particular vehicle, and,
we want to obtain the pads part number so that they can be ordered.
Start by ensuring that the software package you are going to use is
correctly loaded onto the PC. Use the Computer to call up the Spare Parts
database.
4. Provide input information
Once the Spare Parts screen appears, it will prompt you to enter the
specific data that you are seeking. In this instance, select Genuine Parts.
And then the correct vehicle make and year of manufacture.This leads us
to a page with a list of categories. Select Brakes.
5. Narrow the search
This leads us to a page with a list of vehicle models. Select the correct
vehicle model. This leads us to a page with a list of brake parts for the
model we selected. The list is sorted by year of manufacture and has
columns for part number, part description and price. Choose the
appropriate part. Find brake pads, front and note the part number. Select
this item.
6. Access the required parts data
This page shows an image of the Pads, with part number, name,
description and price, and also indicates which models the pads fit. The
brake pads can now be ordered through the shops parts supplier using
the part number found. Or you have the possibility of ordering the pads
directly from the website.
7. Prepare the parts order
If you choose to buy on-line, you will need to fill-in the form and confirm
your order. If this option was not available to you, you could still fill-in the
on-line purchase form. Then select print and fax it to the supplier after
your supervisor has authorized this purchase. It is good practice to print
out this order form and attach it to the repair order for the vehicles
service records.
Using a service information program
Summary
Computer databases provide information on procedures, parts and service
problems. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to learn the basics
of a workshop computer system.
Objective
Learn the basics of a workshop computer system.
Personal safety
Safety check
Points to note
Not all service departments have or use a computerized system. If your

service department does not have a computer, you'll have to use printed
reference materials.
Computer databases provide information on procedures, parts and service

problems. Find out what databases your workplace has on file and how to
access them.
Computers have the ability to easily access updated information using the
Internet, an intranet or CD-ROMs.
Many computerized manuals contain helpful tips on how to access data

quickly.
Most vehicle manufacturers have a service or technical web page. If you

work in an automotive dealership, or your company subscribes to a dealer
network information system, you may be able to find the information you
are looking for through the dealer's intranet.
Choose the correct application

In order to be able to provide accurate information, the software
application used must contain the appropriate data. There is a range of
automotive data-base software applications on the market, the layout may
vary, but they all contain similar information, though some are more
detailed than others. Alternatively, if you work at a dealership or your shop
subscribes to a dealer network information system, you may use that
process. First, you should understand how to operate the computer.
1. Start the system

In the PC world, starting up is often known as booting the computer,
which means, Turn the computer on and log in, if you are required to.
This step will depend on the type of PC you are using and whether it is
stand alone, on a local network, or needs to be connected to the
Internet to operate the software. The way that you do this depends on
your work situation, so its a good idea to get a fellow worker to show you
how to log on in your particular workplace environment
2. Understand the software application
Read the information on the software package. If youre on the internet,
read the information about the software application or website. Most of the
applications have Help sections, which provide details of how to access
the various components within the software itself. The details on the
package will also tell you how to install or access the data. Once you have
become familiar with the operating functions of the software you are ready
to start accessing data. You have a vehicle in for service, and youve found
a problem with the brake pads. You want to obtain any updated service
information that can solve the problem.
3. Access the software application
Start by ensuring that the software package you are going to use is
correctly loaded onto the PC. Use the Computer to see if there is a
Technical Bulletin posted for this problem.
4. Provide input information

To enable the computer to search for the correct data, you may have to
input vehicle information such as the VIN Number or at least the make
model and year of manufacture. The application will usually ask you to
confirm your input data. Here we have selected a 1985 Chevrolet
Corvette. If correct, we can now select more specific information.
5. Narrow the search
Now you can perform a search on a specific section of the vehicle using a
keyword. The program will normally then provide a list of results from
which you can select a particular item. If the software has the capability,
you may want to see if there is a manufacturers Recall Notice on the
vehicle or any of its components.
6. Access specific data
Finally, specific data for this item is displayed. In this case it tells us that
there has been a part modification on the brake pads and that
replacements are available with the part number provided. Once you have
located the data you need, you can usually print it out. This is very useful
to keep on a clipboard for reference when working on the vehicle.

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Dynamometer

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Dynamometer

A dynamometer is a machine that measures the torque and power produced by

A continuity tester that makes an audible sound when a circuit is not

Digital numerical output of the quantity under test.

An amplifier to sense small voltages, currents and high resistances.

Measurements of inductance and capacitance.

Tests of diodes and transistors.

Scales and sockets for temperature measurement with standard

An intermediate-frequency oscillator, a detector and an audio amplifier

A slow oscilloscope. This is available mainly in high-end computercontrolled multimeters.

A test light is a basic circuit testing tool.

Using an angle grinder

Show the correct operating procedure for using an angle grinder.

Work clothing - such as coveralls and steel-capped footwear

Eye protection - such as safety glasses and face masks

Ear protection - such as earmuffs and earplugs

Hand protection - such as rubber gloves and barrier cream

Respiratory equipment - such as face masks and valved respirators

Disconnect the power supply when changing any grinding attachments or

Use the correct type of disc.

Make sure the guard handles are secure.

Always follow the manufacturer's recommendations to make sure the

The turning disc is used to grind or cut metal.

The smaller the grinder, the higher the speed it turns.

The abrasive disc or cutting wheel is attached to the grinder by a flange

Do not confuse a grinder with a sander/polisher. The sander/polisher turns

Part 2: Step-by-step instruction

Using a bench grinder

Set up, adjust and use a bench grinder.

Work clothing - such as coveralls and steel-capped footwear

Eye protection - such as safety glasses and face masks

Ear protection - such as earmuffs and earplugs

Hand protection - such as rubber gloves and barrier cream

Respiratory equipment - such as face masks and valved respirators

Always wear full-face protection, ear protection, leather gloves and a

Ask your supervisor to demonstrate the differences between grinding

If the abrasive wheel is not square, ask your supervisor to demonstrate

Some parts of this illustration are labeled. It is important to learn the

Part 2: Step-by-step instruction

4. Adjust the tool rest

Using pressure washers & cleaners

Safely use pressure washers and cleaners in the workshop.

Work clothing - such as coveralls and steel-capped footwear

Eye protection - such as safety glasses and face masks

Ear protection - such as earmuffs and earplugs

Hand protection - such as rubber gloves and barrier cream

Respiratory equipment - such as face masks and valved respirators

Wear protective gloves whenever using cleaning agents or solvents.

Always be aware of the location of safety switches located on equipment

Do not aim the high-pressure wand at another person.

Always wear protective clothing and the appropriate safety equipment.

Pressure washers and cleaners used in automotive applications are

The biggest advantage of using fluid to clean vehicles, components and

Component washers have to incorporate either an in-built waste recovery

Always follow recommended safety procedures. Some washers use very

It is imperative that the user read the instructions beforehand and be

On completion of the job, the correct disposal of contaminated materials is

Avoid using solvent when cleaning components as it contaminates friction

Never use Kerosene as a general cleaning agent to clean brake

Part 2: Step-by-step instruction

Using an air drill

Demonstrate the correct operation of an air drill.

Work clothing - such as coveralls and steel-capped footwear

Eye protection - such as safety glasses and face masks