Budding

Budding is a grafting technique in which a single bud from the

desired scion is used rather than an entire scion containing
many buds. Most budding is done just before or during the
growing season. However some species may be budded during
the winter while they are dormant.
Budding requires the same precautions as grafting. Be sure
that the scion and rootstock are compatible, that the scion has
mature buds, and that the cambia of the scion and rootstock
match. Be especially careful to prevent drying or contamination of grafting materials.
With practice, the speed with which the process can be performed and the percentage
of successful grafts those that "take" - should equal or surpass those of other grafting
techniques used on the same species. Generally, deciduous fruit and shade trees are
well suited to budding.
Preparing the Rootstock
Rootstock can be grown in the field where it will be budded, or dormant liners can
be transplanted into the field and then allowed to grow under moderate fertility until
they reach the desired 3/16- to 7/16-inch caliper. Since budding is generally done less
than 4 inches above the soil surface, leaves and side branches must be removed from
this portion of the rootstock to create a clean, smooth working area. To avoid quickly
dulling the knife, remove any soil from the rootstock where the cut will be made just
before actual budding takes place. The stem can be cleaned by brushing or rubbing it
gently by hand or with a piece of soft cloth.
Preparing the Budwood
Collect scion or budwood early in the day while temperatures are cool and the plants
are still fully turgid. The best vegetative buds usually come from the inside canopy of
the tree on the current season's growth. Mature buds are most desirable; discard
terminal and younger buds because they are often not mature. To keep budwood from
drying out, getting hot, or freezing (depending on the season), place it into plastic
bags or wrap it in moist burlap as it is collected. Then move to a shaded or sheltered
area to prepare the buds. Place budwood of only one variety in each labeled bag.
Budsticks are usually prepared in a cool, shaded area. Remove the leaves but keep
the petioles (leaf stem) intact to serve as handles when inserting a bud into the

rootstock. Then cut the sticks to a convenient length, leaving three to six buds per
stick. Budsticks that will not be used immediately should be bundled, labeled, and
stored in moisture-retaining containers such as plastic bags or waxed cardboard boxes
and kept cool (32o to 45oF). The longer budwood is stored, the less likely it is to
"take." Generally, budwood stored for more than a few days should be discarded.
When budwood is taken to the field, equal precautions against drying should be
taken. Storing budwood in a picnic cooler with ice will help keep it cool and moist.
Individual bundles of scions carried by budders are often wrapped in moist burlap or
kept in dark (not clear) plastic.
Budding Techniques
T-Budding
T-budding is most commonly used for summer budding of apples, crabapples,
dogwoods, peaches, and pears. T-budding must be one when the bark will "slip."
Slipping means that, when cut, the bark easily lifts or peels in one uniform layer from
the underlying wood without tearing. The exact time when this condition occurs
depends on soil moisture, temperature, and time of year. It varies with species and
variety. Dry or excessively hot or cold weather can shorten the period when bark slips.
Irrigation can be valuable in extending the T-budding season. The best time for
budding in North Carolina usually occurs at about these times (earlier in the East, later
in the mountains):
Peach - Memorial Day to July 1
Apple - June 22 to August I
Pear - July 4 to September 15
Dogwood - July 15 to September
Since budding is usually done during the warm summer months, two other
precautions are commonly taken to ensure success. First, buds should not be added
when the air temperature exceeds 90oF. Second, buds should be inserted on the cooler
north or east sides of stems.
Preparing the Stock. Budding knives usually have a curved tip (Figure 10), making
it easier to cut a T-shaped slit. First, insert the point of the knife and use
a single motion to cut the top of the T. Then without removing the point of the knife,
twist it perpendicularly to the original cut and rock the blade horizontally down the
stem to make the vertical slit of the T. If bark is slipping properly, a slight twist of the
knife at the end of this cut will pop open the flaps of the cut and make it easier to
insert the bud. In practice, the top of the T is usually slanted slightly (Figure 11).

This same type of cut can be made using two separate strokes, one vertical and one
horizontal, and then using the back of the budding knife tip to pry up the flaps slightly.
Although much slower, this technique may be easier.

Figure 10. Budding knives.

Figure 11. T-shaped cut on rootstock.

Removing Buds from the Budstick. The bud to be inserted is often just a shield of
bark with a bud attached or a very thin layer of wood with both the bark shield and
bud attached (Figure 12). Various techniques can be used to make these cuts, but the
shape
of
the
cut
remains
the
same.
1
Begin the first scion cut about /2 inch below the bud and draw the knife upward just
under the bark to a point at least 1/4 inch above the bud. Grasp the petiole from the
detached leaf between the thumb and forefinger of the free hand. Make the second cut
by rotating the knife blade straight across the horizontal axis of the budstick and about
1/4 inch above the desired bud. This cut should be deep enough to remove the bud, its
shield
of
bark,
and
a
thin
sliver
of
wood.
A variation often used with dogwood is to slant the first upward cut so that it goes
about halfway through the budstick. Then make the top cut and bend the budstick by
applying gentle but constant finger pressure behind the bud. The bark should lift and
peel off to the side, yielding bark and bud but no wood.
Caution: Straight lifting rather than the sideward motion will separate the bud from
the bark rather than keeping it intact. Shields removed this way are useless!
The cut surface of the rootstock and bud must stay clean. Do not touch these parts
with your fingers. Also, do not set buds down or put them in your mouth.

Figure 12. Removing the bark shield with the bud attached.

Inserting the Bud. Insert the bud shield into the T flaps of the stock and slide it
down to ensure that it makes intimate contact with the rootstock (Figure 13).

Figure 13. Bark shield with bud inserted into T cut.

Securing the Bud. Pull the cuttogether by winding a 4- or 5-inchlong budding

rubber around the stem to hold the flaps tightly over the bud shield and prevent drying
(Figure 14). Secure the budding rubber by overlapping all windings and tucking the
end under the last turn. Do not cover the bud.

Figure 14. Wrapped bud.

Chip

Budding

Chip budding is a technique that may be used whenever mature buds are available.
Because the bark does not have to "slip," the chip-budding season is longer than the Tbudding season. Species whose bark does not slip easily without tearing - such as
some maples - may be propagated more successfully by chip budding than by Tbudding.
Preparing the Stock and the Scion Bud. Although all the basics in handling
budwood and stock are the same for chip budding and Tbudding, the cuts made in
chip budding differ radically. The first cut on both stock and scion is made at a 45 o to
60o downward angle to a depth of about 1/8 inch (Figure 15). After making this cut on
a smooth part of the rootstock, start the second cut about 3/4 inch higher and draw the
knife down to meet the first cut. (The exact spacing between the cuts varies with
species and the size of the buds.) Then remove the chip.

Figure 15. Rootstock cut for T budding.

Cuts on both the scion (to remove the bud) and the rootstock (to insert the bud)
should be exactly the same (Figure 16). Although the exact location is not essential,
the bud is usually positioned one-third of the way down from the beginning of the cut.
If the bud shield is significantly narrower than the rootstock cut, line up one side
exactly.

Figure 16. Removing chip from budstick.

Securing the Bud. Wrapping is extremely important in chip budding. If all exposed
edges of the cut are not covered, the bud will dry out before it can take. Chip budding
has become more popular over the past 5 years because of the availability of thin (2mil) polyethylene tape as a wrapping material. This tape is wrapped to overlap all of
the injury, including the bud (Figure 17), and forms a miniature plastic greenhouse
over the healing graft.

Figure 17. Chip bud wrapped with plastic tape.

Budding Aftercare
When irrigation is available, apply water at normal rates for plants that bud before
August 1. Ornamental peaches and pears often will break bud and grow the same year
they are budded. Dogwoods and most other species budded after August 1 should be
irrigated at a normal rate for only two to three weeks after budding except during
extreme drought. Following these irrigation practices will enable buds to heal
completely with no bud break before frost.
Although budding rubbers and polyethylene tape reportedly decompose and need
not be removed, studies show that unless they are taken off, binding or girdling of
fastgrowing plants like Bradford pear may occur within a month. Summer buds

should take in two to three weeks.

On species budded in early summer, it may be desirable for the buds to break and
grow during the same season. In this case, either remove the stock tops entirely or
break them over within a few weeks of budding to encourage the scion buds to break.
Once the buds have broken, completely remove the stock above the bud or keep a few
leaves intact but remove the terminals, depending upon the species.
For dogwoods and other plants budded in late summer, remove the tops just before
growth starts the following spring. A slanting cut away from the bud is preferred
(Figure 18). If possible, set up stakes or other devices to insure that straight growth
will occur before the buds break. Straight shoots, however, are so essential to the
growth of high-quality grafted and budded stock that stakes should be set as they are
needed.
To insure a top-quality plant, it is essential to remove unwanted sprouts. These
sprouts should be rubbed" off as soon as they are visible so that they do not reduce
the growth and quality of the budded stock. If they are removed regularly and early,
large scars or "doglegs" can be avoided.

Figure 18. Budded plant after pruning.

General Antonio Luna

Antonio Luna
Si Antonio Luna (Oktubre 29, 1866 - Hunyo 5, 1899) ang nakakabatang kapatid ni Juan
Luna.
Ipinanganak siya sa Maynila noong ika-29 ng Oktubre, 1866 sa Binondo, Maynila. Siya ang
bunsong anak nina Joacquin Luna at Laureana Novicio. Nagtapos siya ng Bachiller en
Artes sa Ateneo de Manila noong 1883 sa murang edad na 15. Kumuha rin siya ng kursong
parmasyutika sa Unibersidad ng Santo Tomas at nakamit niya ang kanyang lisensya sa
kursong ito sa Unibersidad de Barcelona. Natapos din siya sa pagkakadalubhasa sa
parmasyutika sa Ghent, Belhika. Sa propesyon ay isa siyang parmasyotiko.
Ang pagsusulat ang kanyang libangan. Iniakda niya ang El Nomatozario del Paerdismo na
nalathala sa Madrid noong 1893. Ito ang kanyang pinakamalaking naiambag niya sa
literaturang pang-medisina. Siya ang nagtatag ng La Independencia at nagpapadala rin
siya ng mga lathalain sa ibang pahayagan.
Sa simula pa'y isa siyang tagpagtaguyod ng paghingi ng reporma sa mapayapang
pamamaraan. Dahil sa hinalang siya ay isa sa mga teroristang laban sa pamahalaan,
dinakip siya ng mga maykapangyarihang Kastila, nilitis at ikinulong ng mga Kastila.
Nang siya ay makalaya, nag-aral siya ng iba't ibang paraan ng pakikipaglaban sa Ghent.
Pagbalik niya sa Pilipinas, sumapi siya sa rebolusyonaryong pamahalaan ni Emilio
Aguinaldo. Hinirang siyang direktor ng digmaan at tagapamahalang heneral ng Hukbong
Rebolusyonaryo. Siya ay ginawang kabahagi ng sandatahang lakas laban sa mga
Amerikano.
Bilang isang sundalo, si Antonio'y mahigpit magparusa. Sa panahon ng pakikipagdigmaan,
pinagsumikapan niyang maipailalim sa isang disiplina ang mga tauhan sa Batalyon ng
Kabite. Isa sa kanyang madugong pakikipaglaban ay naganap sa La Loma na kung saan
ay napatay si Major Jose Torres Bugallon. Marami pang ibang pinuno ng kalaban ang
nagapi ni Heneral Luna ngunit dumating ang isang pagkakataon na sila ay natalo at ito ay
naganap sa Caloocan.
Natagpuan ni Heneral Luna ang kanyang kamatayan noong ika-8 ng Hunyo, 1899 sa
Cabanatuan sa lalawigan ng Nueva Ecija. Nagtungo siya roon sa pagtupad sa isang
ipinalalagay na pagtawag ni Heneral Aguinaldo upang dumalo sa isang pulong.Habang
nasa loob ng simbahan ng Cabanatuan, binaril siya ng mga sundalo ni Aguinaldo na
inihingi niyang bigyan ng disiplina.

Sa pagkamatay ni Antonio Luna nawalan ng isang dakilang kawal at pinuno ng rebolusyon

ang Unang Republika ng Pilipinas.