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Maps Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

Lucerne
July - September 2015

Lucerne under the sun


All about open-air bars,
swimming and lake-side dining

From saxophones to soprano


Lucernes summer festivals
and other cultural highlights
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Contents

Arrival & Getting Around

Get your bearings

City Basics

Facts, habits, attitudes

History

11

Once upon a time

Culture & Events

12

With its outstanding acoustics, the main hall of the KKL hosts many
festivals such as Lucerne Festival and one-o events (see p. 12-14).

Concerts, shows and exhibitions

Georg Anderhub/Lucerne Festival

Summertime

15

Swimming, sunbathing, summer bars

Nightlife

23

Bars, pubs and clubs

Quick picks

16

Lucerne in a nutshell

Sightseeing

27

Churches, museums and city tours

Restaurants

17

Fine dining, cheesy treats and much more

Cafs

22

Chocolate, coee and conversation

Old-town stroll

32

Shopping

33

Local delicacies and Swiss design

Watches & Jewellery

36

Where to nd the one youre loooking for

Daytrips

40

Mountains, museums and more

Lucerne for kids

42

Major fun for minor citizens

Hotels

43

From cream of the crop to down to earth

Maps & Index


Thanks to the lake, Lucerne has a host of summery swimming spots
which often double as open-air bars, like Seebad here (see p. 15).
Elge Kenneweg/Luzern Tourismus

Advertisement

City map
Street register
Index
Public transport map

46-47
48
49
50

Advertisement

Lwenstrasse 16b Luzern

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July - September 2015

Foreword
Waking up early in a new city for the rst time is one of
the highlights of travelling. The light is soft, the streets still
quiet, its almost all yours. And theres the promise of the
day ahead of you, all the things to do, see, taste, feel!
Waking up under a perfect blue sky in Lucerne, you could
start your day by slipping into the cool waters of the lake
(see p. 15) youre already living like a local! Another plan
for escaping the heat on a sweltering day is to get a little
closer to heaven on a mountain peak. Mount Rigi (p. 31)
e.g. with its gentle slopes and magnicent views is a true
classic among the summits.
By evening though, the promise of urban enjoyment will
be drawing you back into the city, whether for a meal in
a pleasant courtyard (p. 17) or a cultural highlight. With
the Blue Balls Festival focussed on pop, folk etc. and
the Lucerne Festival with an exceptional programme of
classical music summer in Lucerne has a whole mountain
range of musical summits to climb (p. 12 -14). And with so
much to keep you up, maybe youll be waking up a little
later on your second morning in Lucerne.

Publisher
pocket publishing GmbH
Wuhrstrasse 15, 8003 Zrich
tel. +41 32 510 85 76
switzerland@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.ch
Published 3 times per year, 90 000 copies
ISSN 2296-8598
pocket publishing GmbH 2015
Editorial oce Lucerne
Lucerne In Your Pocket, Kasimir-Pfyer-Str. 18, 6003 Luzern
lucerne@inyourpocket.com
Editors Kathy Bajaria & Chris Young
Research Lukas Fglister
Layout & Maps Tom Haman, Photos For photographers see
photos, Cover KKL Luzern
Sales & Circulation
General Manager Lukas Fglister
Sales Kathy Bajaria, +41 41 544 07 58,
kathy.bajaria@inyourpocket.com
Ad rates at www.inyourpocket.ch,
closing date next issue: September 18, 2015

COVER STORY

Copyright notice & Editors note


Text and maps copyright pocket publishing GmbH.
Photos copyright photographers. All rights reserved. No
part of this publication may be reproduced in any form
without written permission from the copyright owner.
The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from
UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent
from paid-for advertising. We have made every eort to
ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.

Our cover shows a view of the


imposing KKL which vies with the
Chapel Bridge for the status of
Lucernes premier landmark. Designed by Parisian master architect Jean Nouvel and completed
in 2000, the KKL marks Lucernes
transition to a more international,
culturally daring and cosmopolitan city. See p. 28.
Photo KKL Luzern

ABOUT IYP
ESTONIA
RUSSIA

LATVIA
LITHUANIA

NORTHERN
IRELAND
IRELAND

BELARUS
NETHERLANDS
BELGIUM

POLAND
UKRAINE

GERMANY
CZECH
REPUBLIC
AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND
ITALY

HUNGARY

SLOVENIACROATIA
BOSNIA SERBIA
MONTENEGRO

ROMANIA

GEORGIA

BULGARIA

FYR MACEDONIA
ALBANIA
GREECE

DUTCH
CARIBBEAN
SOUTH
AFRICA

Lucerne In Your Pocket

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Arriving & Getting Around


ARRIVING BY PLANE

ARRIVING BY CAR

Lucerne is easiest to reach from Zurich International


Airport (ZRH) which has by far the most international
connections compared to the two alternatives EuroAirport
Basel Mulhouse (BSL) and Airport Bern-Belp (BRN).
Zurich airport handles around 700 ights a day going to
over 170 destinations worldwide. You can nd ATMs and
switzerlandinfo desks at arrival 1 and arrival 2 just after
you pass customs. There is a big public shopping area with
most shops open from 08:00 - 21:00 and free Wi- for the
rst 60 minutes, just connect your device to ZurichAirport
and follow the instructions in your browser.
Direct trains to Lucerne leave Zurich airport every hour
and take 62 minutes, trains that take just 10 minutes longer
leave inbetween (change train at Zurich Hauptbahnhof ).
The train station is actually within the airport, on level -2
of the airport centre, where the main shopping area and
check-in 3 are. Train tickets can be bought at the counters
or at the ticket machines (switch them to English on the rst
screen) next to the stairs leading down to the platforms.

The Swiss motorway A2 connects Lucerne to the Gotthard


and Italy to the south and Bern to the north, the motorway
A14 comes from Zurich. This makes getting to Lucerne by
car easy, but parking is scarce and expensive. For overnight
parking you can try nding a slot in the so-called blue zone
in residential areas - parking there is free from 19:00 - 08:00,
indicate your arrival time on your parking disk. In car parks
parking costs approx. 20 - 50Sfr a day.
Driving in Switzerland is generally easy. If youre using
the motorways you have to buy a vignette for 40Sfr
(available at petrol stations and post oces). Remember
that pedestrians on zebra-crossings without trac lights
always have right of way, as do trams.
The legal alcohol limit for drivers is 0.05%, which should
allow you to have roughly one glass of beer before driving.
The standard speed limit is 50km/h in urban areas, 80km/h
outside towns and 120km/h on motorways. In residential
zones in Lucerne, the speed limit is often 30km/h. Fines
are high and yes, Switzerland has agreements with many
European countries to make sure you pay the ne even if
you have a foreign number plate. You may use your home
driving license in Switzerland as long as it is valid - if
the license is a non EU-one and in a language other than
French, English, Italian or German it is recommended that it
be accompanied by an international one.

BICYCLES
Getting around town by bicycle is popular in Lucerne, and
in nice weather its a good option for visitors too.
Whats left of Lucernes old train station, in front of the new one. LIYP

ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Lucernes main train station is right in the centre of town,
with the lake and the KKL to one side and the old town
just a few minutes walk away. International and domestic
connections leave and arrive here. At the station you will
nd ticket oces, the tourist information as well as
shopping. Buses and taxis leave just in front of the station.
Of the suburban train stations, the one at the Transport
Museum (Verkehrshaus) is most likely to interest you.
At the ticket oce in the main hall you can buy train
tickets (also available at the many ticket machines), tickets
for public transport in Lucerne and also change money. For
time tables and tickets refer to www.sbb.ch or call +41 900
300 300 (1.19Sfr/min).

ARRIVING BY BUS
Though there are not a huge number of long-distance
bus connections from Lucerne, you can travel to several
destinations in Germany, Italy, Croatia and southern
France. Buses arrive and leave at Inseliquai 10, just to the
east of the main train station, near the lakeshore.
6

Lucerne In Your Pocket

NEXTBIKE - BIKE SHARING


Nextbike is a bike sharing system where you can pick up
bikes at any one of the 60 locations in town around the
clock, either by calling the hotline or using their app or
website. When you enter the bikes number in the app, it
gives you the number code for the bike lock - and o you
go. Fees are charged to your visa or mastercard. Before you
can start you need to register online.Qtel. +41 41 50 80
800, www.nextbike.ch. 2Sfr for every hour or part of an
hour, 20Sfr/24h.
RENT-A-BIKE
At the main train station, rents out bicycles (from 27Sfr/half
day) and e-bikes (from 38Sfr/half day).QC-4, Zentralstrasse
1, uBahnhof, tel. +41 51 227 32 61, www.rent-a-bike.ch.
Open 08:30 - 19:00, Sat & Sun 09:30 - 19:00.

CAR RENTAL
All you need to rent a car in Switzerland is a credit card, an
ID and a valid licence - some companies do however also
require a minimum age and minimum driving experience.
EUROPCARQD-4, Inseliquai 12b, uBahnhof, tel. +41
41 210 57 22, www.europcar.ch. Open 07:15 - 18:00, Sat
08:00 - 15:00, Sun closed.
lucerne.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around


For all questions about public transport, get advice at the
Lucerne City Transport (VBL) sales points at the main train
station (in the underground shopping area) or at the bus
stop Schwanenplatz.
City transport in Lucerne runs roughly from 05:00
- 00:30. There are night buses called nachtstern
(www.nachtstern.ch) in the nights Fri/Sat and Sat/Sun to the
surroundings (like Kriens or Littau) which leave at the main
train station. The tickets for 7Sfr or 10Sfr can be bought from
the driver only. Day passes and any other tickets are not valid.
Commuters at Lucernes main train station.
iStock.com/NicolasMcComber

PUBLIC TRANSPORT
TRAINS
The punctuality of trains in Switzerland is legendary. You
can almost set your watch to the departure times. The train
network is fast, reliable and extensive. For getting around in
Switzerland, trains are denitely best - from Lucerne there
are connections to all the major Swiss cities at least once an
hour. The state owned train company is called SBB. For time
tables refer to www.sbb.ch. Tickets are sold on vending
machines (switch them to English on the rst screen) and at
the counters in Lucerne main train station. You can purchase
single and return tickets which are valid on all trains on the
chosen route. Children up to 5 travel for free, from 6 - 16
years they pay the half-fare. If you plan on travelling around
Switzerland a lot, get a half-fare card for one month for
120Sfr - and travel for half the fare on all public transport. Or
get a Swiss Travel Pass which is valid for all kinds of public
transport (210 - 440Sfr, depending on duration) and free
entry to many museums (www.swisstravelsystem.com). Ask
for advice at the train station. If you board a train without a
valid ticket, you will have to pay a ne of 90Sfr.
CITY TRANSPORT
Lucernes public transport network includes buses and
local trains. The ticket system is fairly simple: Lucernes
regional network is divided into zones. You dont buy
tickets for a trip, but rather for a zone. Lucerne city is
zone number 10 which includes all of the city and
part of the agglomeration (e.g. municipalities of Kriens,
Emmenbrcke, Meggen, Littau). Tickets are valid in the
chosen zones on buses and local trains. As a visitor zone 10
is most probably all youll need, as all the sights and even
the bus ride to the valley station of the cable car to popular
Mount Pilatus is within this zone. A day pass for zone 10
valid for a calendar day costs 8Sfr (half-fare 6Sfr), a single
ticket valid for 1 hour 4Sfr. Children under 6 travel for free,
6 - 16 year-olds pay the so-called half-fare (which actually
is 3Sfr). Short distance tickets for up to 6 stops within half
an hour are 2.50 (no half-fare). All these tickets can be
purchased with cash or credit cards at the ticket machines
you nd at almost every stop (switch to English on the rst
screen). You can also purchase tickets via an App for your
smartphone called V-Ticket (available for iPhone and
Android). If you get caught without a valid ticket, its 90Sfr.
facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

TAXIS
There are around 500 licenced taxis in Lucerne and in
general they are clean, safe, reliable - and expensive. The
city sets the following maximum fees for taxis: initial fee
6Sfr, 3.80Sfr/km up to 20Sfr, 3.50Sfr/km above 20Sfr, waiting
time 66Sfr per hour. Most companies charge the maximum
(exception: McTaxi, +41 76 577 66 55, inital fee 4Sfr, 3.40Sfr/
km). Taxi drivers have to and usually do use their metres.
Cheating is rare. Two pieces of hand luggage are free,
suitcases, dogs and extra hand luggage can be charged
at 1Sfr/piece. Youll nd taxis at ocial taxi stands at the
train station, at Schwanenplatz, behind Hotel National and
in other places. You can hail them from the streets as well.
Here are two companies if you want to order a taxi:
TAXI HESS, +41 41 310 10 10, www.hesstaxi.ch
TAXI OL, +41 41 360 55 55, www.taxi-ol-luzern.ch

11.01

NEW: graphic
watches of
Switzerland.

11.15

11.30

11.45

www.partime.ch

SWISS
MADE

July - September 2015

City Basics
BASIC DATA
Area
Switzerland: 41285 sq km
Lucerne (canton): 1493 sq km
Lucerne (city): 29 sq km
Population
Switzerland: 8.0 million
Lucerne (city): 84,000
Ocial languages
Switzerland: German, French, Italian, Romansh
Lucerne: German
Local time
Central European (GMT+1h)

CUSTOMS
Switzerland is not a member of the European customs
union. On the one hand that gives you the opportunity to
buy real tax-free goods at airports when you are travelling
from and to Switzerland. On the other hand there are tight
restrictions on the goods you can take free of customs duty
from Switzerland to your country. For EU-countries the
following customs and tax allowances apply (for other
countries check with the according customs authorities):
Tobacco: 200 (50 to some countries) cigarettes or 100 (20)
cigarillos or 50 (10) cigars or 250 gr (50) of smoking tobacco.

DRINKING
The drinking age in Switzerland is 16 for wine and beer
and 18 for spirits and alcopops. The standard sizes for
beer are the 0.3 litre Stange (pronounce: shtang-eh)
and the 0.5 litre Grosses (gro-sus). The long-standing
medium-scale brewers (in Lucerne youll usually find
Eichhof, which now belongs to the Dutch Heineken
breweries) are increasingly getting competition from
innovative local brewers. Check out Luzerner Bier,
Lozrner Bier (yep, not the same) or Appenzeller for
instance.
Swiss wines are also not to be underestimated. While the
best may come from further south, youll nd some very
good Blauburgunders (red) and Riesling Sylvaners (white)
from the Lucerne region. Traditional Swiss spirits are fruit
brandies, cherry (Kirsch) and pear (Williams) being the
most common.

ELECTRICITY
Electricity in Switzerland is 230 V, 50 Hz AC. Plug sockets
are round and take three round pins (types C and J) - they
can take europlugs with two pins. If you are coming from
the US, UK or Ireland you denitely need an adaptor - as
well as from many other countries. In modern hotels you
might nd multi-use sockets. Otherwise ask for an adaptor
at the reception or buy one in a travellers or electronics
shop.

EMERGENCY

Alcohol: 1 litre of spirits over 22% vol or 2 litres of spirits


with less than 22% vol, 4 litres of still wine, 16 litres of beer.

Emergency telephone numbers (operators usually speak


basic English):

Other goods: Max. value of all goods: 430 euros for air
travellers and 300 euros for other travellers. Goods over
these limits must be declared when entering a EU-country,
additional taxes and VAT may apply.

Ambulance: 144
Police: 117
Firebrigade: 118

In Switzerland there is duty free shopping for arriving air


travellers as well.

If you need medical attention, there is a walk-in medical


centre for all kinds of consultations at the main tran station.
The emergency unit at the hospital is always open.
HOSPITAL KANTONSSPITAL LUZERN
Lucernes hospital has a 24h emergency walk-in service.
Buses 18 and 19 go here from the train station.QA-1,
Spitalstrasse, uKantonsspital, tel. +41 41 205 11 11,
www.luks.ch. Open 24/7.

LUZERN OR LUCERNE?

Chapel bridge, Lake Lucerne, Mount Pilatus: Lucernes tourist


iStock.com/photogearch
trinity.

Lucerne In Your Pocket

Whats in a name? If you look for the destination


Lucerne on a timetable, you might wonder if the place
has gone missing! But no fear - the German spelling
is Luzern. That is standard German however: in dialect
its Lozrn, but now were getting a bit advanced. The
simple math is: Lucerne = Luzern.
lucerne.inyourpocket.com

City Basics
LANGUAGE SMARTS
Here are some typical Swiss German words - it will be
always appreciated if you use a few Swiss words. The r
in Swiss German is rolled, the ch is pronounced like in
the Scottish loch. Mind your throat.
Hello (formal)

Grezi

(groo-e-tsi)

Goodbye (formal)

Adieu

(as in French)

Thank you

Merci

(mersi)

Sorry!

Entschuldigung!

(ent-shooldi-goong)

Excuse me!

Exgsi!

(ex-gewsi)

Switzerland

DSchwyz

(chviiits)

Cheers!

Zum Wohl!

(tsoom vol)

Lucerne

Lozrn

(Lo-tsaern)

PERMANENCE MEDICAL CENTRE


This medical centre in the underground shopping area
of the train station is the easiest place to go if you have
any medical needs. Go to the reception desk when you
arrive, youll then probably have to wait a while. Its useful
to have the details of your health insurance with you.
QC-4, Bahnhofplatz, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 211 14 44,
www.permanence-luzern.ch. Open 365 days, Mon - Thu
07:00 - 23:00, and non-stop Fri 07:00 - Sun 23:00.

PHARMACIES
Pharmacies (Apotheke in German) on night duty are open
24 hours, a sign on every pharmacys door will tell you
where the next pharmacy on duty is. You can also call +41
41 211 33 33 which will connect you to the next pharmacy
on duty. The pharmacy Benu at the main train station is
open Mon - Sat 07:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00 (in the
underground shopping area, +41 41 220 13 13).

INTERNET & WI-FI


Surng the internet over the mobile network can be very
expensive when youre abroad, due to the roaming charges.
Luckily, most hotels and many cafs, bars and restaurants
oer free Wi-. And in the city centre around the station,
at the lakeshore and Lwenstrasse there is a free Wi-.
Simply search for the network Luzern.WLAN on your device
and open a browser. After you enter your phone number
you will get an access code which will allow you to surf
for an hour for free. You will also nd the commercial
Wi- providers Monzoon and Swisscom all over the city.
You can subscribe to their services on the start page you
get on your browser once you connect to their hotspots
- all you need is a credit card. Prices start at 5Sfr per day.

LANGUAGE
Switzerland has four ocial languages: German (spoken by
64%), French (20%), Italian (6.5%) and Romansh (0.5%).
Lucerne lies in the German speaking part of the country,
where people speak a German dialect, so called Swiss
facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

UMC Change GmbH


Discount Money Exchange
TOP rate / No commission

Open 9am - 6pm, Sat till 1pm


Habsburgerstr. 11, Luzern
Tel. +41 41 211 00 50
www.umc-change-lu.ch

German or Schwyzerdtsch. Be it among friends, at work


or when dealing with the authorities, people speak dialect.
However, Swiss people use standard German, so-called
Hochdeutsch, when writing and speaking at school. A lot
of Swiss speak English fairly well, especially the younger
generation. So generally getting by in English is no problem.

LOST & FOUND


If youve lost your hat, your handbag or something else, you
might have a happy reunion at the lost & found, fundbro in
German. Its located at the police station at Hirschengraben
17b (B-4), tel +41 41 248 86 66, open Mon - Fri 09:00 - 12:00,
13:30 - 17:00. If you might have lost your item on a train or
at the train station, also try the lost & found at the station.

MONEY
The currency and legal tender of Switzerland is the Swiss franc
(Sfr), which is divided in 100 rappen. There are banknotes of
10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 1000 francs. The coins in use are 1,2
and 5 francs as well as 5, 10, 20 and 50 rappen.You can change
your money at UMC Change, Habsburgerstr. 11 (+41 41 211
00 50) or at the SBB change at the train station or any of the
banks. Or just withdraw Swiss francs with your Maestro or
your Plus card from one of the ubiquitous ATMs. Credit cards
are widely accepted - both in shops and restaurants. Service
is always included. At a restaurant however, if you were happy
with the service, leave 5-10% of the bill as a tip.

MARKET VALUES
Loaf of bread
Cup of coee
0.3 litre of beer (bar)
Public transport ticket, 1 hr
Packet of cigarettes
McDonalds Big Mac

2-5Sfr
4-7Sfr
4-7Sfr
4Sfr
8Sfr
6.50Sfr

(1.85 - 4.70)
(3.70 - 6.55)
(3.70 - 6.55)
(3.80)
(7.50)
(6.05)

The Swiss national bank has abandoned its policy of


tying the Swiss Franc to the Euro. Currently the exchange
rate is quite stable at around 1.05 Sfr to the Euro.
July - September 2015

City Basics
by parliament always includes representatives of all of
the four or ve major parties. Switzerland is a federal
republic consisting of 26 cantons, once sovereign states
which retain some independence and have their own
constitutions, parliaments and governments. Bern is
the capital and the seat of the parliament and the
federal authorities. Due to the understanding of political
independence many locals favour, Switzerland is not a
member of the EU. Switzerland does, however, cooperate
with the EU in many areas, such as on the Schengen visa
and border agreement.
The Lion Monument commemorates Swiss mercenaries who died
MikeNG/Shutterstock
defending the French king in 1793.

SAFETY

MAIL & PHONE

Lucerne is generally a safe city, and there is no no-go area,


even for women at night. Of course crime exists, and be
on guard against pickpockets just as in any European city.

Post
Swiss post is generally reliable, and also can take care of
all your nancial transactions. There are post oces all over
the city - the university post oce just next to the train
station has long opening hours (see below).
Dialling
Switzerlands calling code is +41. Lucernes code is (an
additional!) (0)41. We list the country code before all
telephone numbers. Of course you only have to use
this if you are dialling from abroad. If you are already in
Switzerland, just ignore the +41 country prex, dial 0 and
then the nine-digit number.

SMOKING
The legal age for smoking is 16. Smoking in publicly
accessible buildings and public transport is generally illegal
in Switzerland. In Lucerne however, if restaurants and bars
are under 80 sqm, they can opt to be smoking venues and
quite a few do so. We mark them with X.

POSTSTELLE UNIVERSITT
One of Lucernes post oces with the longest opening
hours.QC-4, Frohburgstrasse 3, uBahnhof. Open 09:00
- 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 13:30 - 17:30.

POLITICS
The Swiss like to consider their country the home of
direct democracy and citizens here are regularly asked
to take a stand on national issues. The two chambers of
parliament are (mainly) elected in a proportional voting
system and the seven-member government appointed

A perfect day to take to the lake!

iStock.com/Krasnevsky

TOURIST INFORMATION
NATIONAL HOLIDAYS
January 1
January 2
February 4, 8 & 9, 2016
March 25, 2016
March 28, 2016
May 5, 2016
May 16, 2016
May 26, 2016
August 1
October 2
November 1
December 25
December 26
10 Lucerne In Your Pocket

New Year
Berchtold Day (local)
Carnival (local)
Good Friday
Easter Monday
Ascension
Whit Monday
Corpus Christi
National Holiday
St. Leodegar's Day (local)
All Saint's Day (local)
Christmas
St. Stephen's Day

TOURIST INFORMATION
Lucerne Tourisms tourist information oce is in the
building of the main train station, but is accessible from
Zentralstrasse, outside the station.QC-4, Zentralstrasse 5,
uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 227 17 17, fax +41 41 227 17 20,
www.luzern.com. Open 08:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00,
Sun 09:00 - 17:00.

VISAS
For a stay of up to three months, many foreigners simply
need a passport or an ID card to enter Switzerland. Even
though not a member of the European Union, Switzerland
is a member of the Schengen Agreement. As a result a
Schengen visa is valid for Switzerland as well. Always check
these details with a Swiss embassy or consulate.
lucerne.inyourpocket.com

History
LUCERNE IS BIG IN ROME
XVI XVII Century
Religion became a big issue in the 1500s as the Reformation
swept across Europe. Neighbouring confederates Zurich
and Bern both grasped the new confession. Lucerne,
however, remained with the old faith and became a centre of
Catholicism, with new monasteries of the Capuchins, Jesuits
and Ursulines being built in the 16th and 17th centuries. Faith
also caused tensions (and wars!) within the Swiss confederacy,
and Lucerne became the leader of the Catholic camp. In this
role, Lucerne became the seat of the nuncio, the papal envoy,
in 1586 and the seat of the Spanish ambassador in 1595.

PROFITS FROM
THE WAR BUSINESS
Leodegar, Lucernes patron saint on the doors of the Hofkirche.
iStock.com/aimintang

THE CITY OF LIGHT


EMERGES
Stone age IX Century
Although stone-age settlements and the Romans left a
few traces, Lucerne doesnt emerge out of the darkness of
history until around 840. The name Luciaria is mentioned
in documents, which may mean place of light it is a
popular sobriquet for Lucerne today. This early mediaeval
town consisted mainly of the Benedictine abbey of Saint
Leodegar, who is the towns patron saint, and the houses at
either end of the bridge across the River Reuss.

A TRANS-ALPINE
TRADE BOOM
XII XVII Century
Lucerne was long a regional market town, and the weekly
market on Tuesdays (still held today!) supplied the towns
hinterland for centuries. In the 13th century north-south
trade across the Gotthard turned Lucerne into a major
commercial centre. The trade across this Alpine pass mainly
connected the Upper Rhine Plain and Milano, and boomed
right up until the 17th century.

XV XIX Century
Apart from trans-Alpine trade, a major source of income
in Lucerne and its backcountry were mercenaries, young
Swiss men who were sent to ght for France, Spain, the
Duchy of Savoy or other powers of the day. Between ca.
1400 and 1800 around 50,000 men had left the Lucerne
area to serve abroad and the city of Lucerne only had a
population of around 4000 for most of that period! While a
few of the mercenaries came back rich, many did not come
back at all and the well connected families who brokered
the deals were the ones who beneted most.

NAPOLEON AND THE


BEGINNING OF TOURISM
XVIII XIX Century
In 1798 Lucerne lost its independence as Napoleon occupied
the Swiss Confederacy and transformed it into the Helvetic
Republic for a brief ve years. After a return of the old powers,
Switzerland was born in 1848, when the modern nation state
was founded. In 1859 modernity reached Lucerne in the shape
of the railway, and the town started expanding in earnest on
the southern shore of the river. From 1830 onwards Lucerne
had a new industry tourism. The lake, the easily accessible
mountains and some of the earliest mountain railways made
it a favourite destination for the still very exclusive group of
people who could aord to travel for pleasure. Many of the
grand hotels and attractions like the Gletschergarten were
built towards the end of the 19th century.

ALLIANCES WITH THE


FOREST COUNTIES

MODERN-DAY LUCERNE

XIII XIV Century


Preceding the 15th century, Lucerne was unproblematically
under Habsburg rule. In 1332, due to a power struggle
between the German kings Ludwig and Friedrich, Lucerne
entered a pact with the three waldsttten or forest counties,
Uri, Schwyz and Unterwalden which encircle Lake Lucerne
(or the Vierwaldstttersee, the lake of the four forest
counties, as it is known locally). This military alliance was
slowly to expand until it became the Swiss confederacy, the
precursor of the modern Swiss state.

XX - XI Century
In the 20th century, Lucerne developed into a vibrant centre
for the region of Central Switzerland, becoming a university
city in 2000. The concert hall KKL (p. 28) by architect Jean
Nouvel was also opened in 2000, giving the town a new
face. In the realm of culture Lucerne is famous for hosting the
second largest after Basel and loudest Swiss carnival and
the Lucerne Festival for classical music. The festival enjoys huge
international renown, particularly due to Claudio Abbado who
was head conductor from 2003 until his sudden death in 2014.

facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

July - September 2015

11

Culture & Events


Lucerne has a rich cultural life, a packed programme of
excellent classical concerts at the KKL and elsewhere, opera
and theatre at the Stadttheater and a host of venues for
electronic music, pop, jazz, metal and more.
We list the most important venues in the venue list and
refer to them only by name in the event list. If the event
takes place in a less usual venue, we indicate the full
address in the preview. Events are listed in the categories
classical music, exhibitions, festivals, shows and rock & pop
concerts. Within the sections it's ordered by date.
Of course there are far more events than we can list. We
recommend checking out kalender.null41.ch for more
events (Only in German, click 'Veranstaltungen' on the left
and the button Stadt Luzern on the right).

14.10 WEDNESDAY & 15.10 THURSDAY


LUCERNE SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA LSO DER 'RING' OHNE WORTE
Conductor: James Gagan, piano: Nelson Freire. Works:
Sergei Rachmanino 's concert for piano and orchestra n4
and sections of Richard Wagner's 'Der Ring der Nibelungen'
without vocals.QKKL. Concert starts 19:30, 25-110Sfr.

EXHIBITIONS
28.02 SATURDAY 22.11 SUNDAY
FACE TO FACE - VON ANGESICHT ZU ANGESICHT

CLASSICAL MUSIC & OPERA


01.09 TUESDAY & 02.09 WEDNESDAY
BERLIN PHILHARMONICS
Conductor: Simon Rattle, works by B. Britten and D.
Shostakovich.QKKL. Concerts start 19:30, tickets:
www.lucernefestival.ch.
05.09, 09.09, 11.09, 13.09, 17.09, 19.09
04.10, 08.10, 11.10, 17.10
ALBERT HERRING
Comic opera in three acts by Benjamin Britten. Text by
Eric John Crozier after Guy de Maupassant. In English with
German surtitles.QLuzerner Theater. Performances start
19:30, 30 - 100Sfr. Performances start 20:00 on Oct 4, 8,
11.

LUCERNE VENUE LIST


KKLQC/D-4, Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof,
www.kkl-luzern.ch.
KONZERTHAUS SCHR
Folk, rock, metal - lots of big names play here. Tickets:
www.starticket.ch, +41 900 325 325 (1.19Sfr/min)
QC-6, Tribschenstrasse 1, uBundesplatz, tel. +41
41 368 10 30, www.schuur.ch.
KUNSTMUSEUM LUZERN
QC-4, Europaplatz 1, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 226 78
00, www.kunstmuseumluzern.ch.
LUZERNER THEATER
Tickets under +41 41 228 14 14, ticket oce opens 1h
before the evening performances.QB-4, Theaterstrasse
2, uBahnhof, www.luzerner-theater.ch.
SDPOL
An innovative venue which programmes music,
dance and theatre of all kinds. For tickets check the
website and the event organizer.QArsenalstrasse
28, uEichhof, tel. +41 41 318 00 40, info@
suedpol-luzern.ch, www.sudpol.ch.
12 Lucerne In Your Pocket

Franz Gertschs painting of Luciano Castelli is on show at the


Kunstmusem.

PD

This year's presentation of the collection of the


Kunstmuseum Luzern brings together local gures,
Madonnas, nudes and heroes. The exhibition is devoted to
the human being, one of the earliest themes in visual arts.
Self-portraits, mythological gures in Baroque garb, the
slender forms of nudes, black ghost-masks and traditional
Swiss costumes hang side by side with tableaus of children
and distinguished portraits. The exhibition includes works
by Swiss masters like Fssli and Bcklin.QKunstmuseum
Luzern. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00, Mon
closed. July - August 14 open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00
- 20:00, Mon closed. August 15 - September 13 open
10:00 - 19:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00, Mon closed.
04.09 FRIDAY
LUCERNE MUSEUM NIGHT
This is the eigth Lucerne museum night, where most of the
town's museums will be open until late into the night. With
special guided tours and shuttles between the venues and
bars at the museums, this is a event somewhere between
exhibition, festival and night out on the town. Don't miss
the great atmosphere! Check the website for details.
Qwww.lmn15.ch. 18:00 - 24:00, 25Sfr, incl. entry to
all participating venues and shuttle transport. Tickets
available at the museums.

FESTIVALS
08.07 WEDNESDAY 16.08 SUNDAY
OPEN-AIR CINEMA
This open-air cinema is worth watching even before the
lm starts! The outdoor grandstand is set up facing the lake,
lucerne.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events


where the full-size screen is placed, so you can gaze out onto
the lake. The programming is a mix of recent blockbusters,
Swiss productions and classics. Films in English (marked
Edf ) will be showing on July 12, 19, 20, 23, 26 and
August 2, 3, 9, 11. But check the website, the programme
can change. There is a restaurant on site.QAlpenquai
50,
uEisfeldstrasse,
www.open-air-kino.ch.
Screenings start when it gets dark enough, approx.
21:30. 16Sfr, tickets can be bought from 19:00 on site or
at Coop City on Rssligasse 18-20 (B-3) or ordered from
www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 800 800 (1.19Sfr/min).
17.07 FRIDAY 25.07 SATURDAY
BLUE BALLS FESTIVAL

CINEMAS
Lucerne has ve cinemas, apart from a few temporary
movie events. Traditionally lms in Switzerland are
shown in their original language with German and
French subtitles. But this has changed somewhat, with
more and more lms being dubbed. Particularly in
smaller cinemas you can still watch all movies in the
original language - lots of them in English of course.
They are marked with the letters Edf in the programmes
(English with German (Deutsch) and French subtitles) a D (capital) indicates the movie is spoken in German.
Check the daily newspapers or www.cineman.ch
for programme and screening times. And dont be
surprised when the movie stops after an hour and the
lights are turned on - its just the Swiss-style movie
break allowing you to fetch another drink or snack.
Tickets cost between 13 and 18Sfr, depending on the
movie and the seat category you choose. On Mondays
tickets are 13Sfr in all cinemas on all seats.

He needs dollars for groovy music - Aloe Blacc.

PD

The Blue Balls festival is one of the largest music and art
festivals in Switzerland: 9 days, 120 events, 100,000 visitors!
Pop, blues, rock, soul, funk and world concerts meet
photography, art, video, lm and talks - all in and around
the KKL congress centre. There is an open-air stage as well
as late-night sessions at the hotel Schweizerhof. This year
the programme features James Bay, Zaz, Jamie Cullum,
Aloe Blacc and Damien Rice, to name just a few. See their
website for details.QKKL, www.blueballs.ch. Tickets:
www.ticketcorner.com, +41 900 800 800 (1.19Sfr/min).
14.08 FRIDAY 13.09 SUNDAY
LUCERNE FESTIVAL
Unlike most other cities, classical music doesn't disappear in
Lucerne during summer - the 'Lucerne Festival in Summer'
hosts dozens of real highlights. The Lucerne Festival is an
institution in Lucerne, bringing some of the world's best
musicians, conductors and composers of classical music - and
other genres - to the lake side. Since 2003 the summer festival
has been opened by the Lucerne Festival Orchestra, since last
year conducted by Andris Nelsons and - new this year - Bernard
Haitink. Humour is the theme of the 2015 Summer Festival,
intended to clear away stubborn prejudices. They want to
show how enjoyably entertaining classical music can also be,
be it with the elaborate punchlines in the music of Haydn, the
angry satire in Shostakovich's symphonies or the colourful
collage in Prokoev and Stravinsky. See www.lucernefestival.ch
for the daily programme.QKKL, tel. +41 41 226 44 00,
www.lucernefestival.ch. TIckets: www.lucernefestival.ch or
at the KKL Ticket Sales (Europaplatz 1).
facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

CAPITOL
The capitol shows a wide range of lms, from studio
to hollywood, from thriller to comedy on six screens.
Snacks and drinks for sale. You can reserve tickets
on www.kitag.ch or by phone on +41 900 556 789.
By phone the charges are a quite hefty initial 1.50Sfr
and 1.50Sfr a minute.QC-5, Zentralstrasse 45,
uBundesplatz, www.kitag.ch.
MODERNE
The moderne with one screen belongs to the same chain
as the capitol and shows a similar choice. Snacks and
drinks for sale. You can reserve tickets on www.kitag.ch
or by phone on +41 900 556 789. By phone the charges
are a quite hefty initial 1.50Sfr and 1.50Sfr a minute.QB-5,
Pilatusstr. 21, uKantonalbank, www.kitag.ch.
STATTKINO
Independent operator showing studio production at
the Bourbaki location. 105 seats.QC-2, Lwenplatz
11, uLwenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 30 60,
www.stattkino.ch.

CONCERTS AT
THE PAVILLION
At the open-air pavillion on Nationalquai, close to
hotel National, there are often free concerts from
May to September. The programme varies from brass
to steel bands and traditional accordion and Alpine
horn groups. Check www.lucerne.com for the detailled
programme.QD-3, Nationalquai, www.lucerne.com.
Concerts mostly on Thu, Fri & Sun, usually at 20:15,
Sun at 17:00 or 10:15.
July - September 2015

13

Culture & Events


BOURBAKI

overwhelmingly catchy melodies is what does the trick.


They will be supported by the blues guitar player Gary Clark
Jr..QKKL. Concert starts 20:30, 75-95Sfr.
11.08 TUESDAY
THE STORY SO FAR
The Story So Far are ve guys from Walnut Creek, California.
Since they released their album Under Soil And Dirt in
2011 they are on top of the pop punk scene and have
toured all over the world. Now they stop by in Lucerne,
would you believe it?QTreibhaus Club, Speltriniweg 4,
uWeinbergli. Concert starts 20:00, 20Sfr.

The Bourbaki is a cinema - but its much more than that,


its a lively cultural crossroads. When you walk into the
Bourbaki youll immediately notice the circular layout
- the generous Bourbaki bar/bistro is arranged on a
huge wooden oor-ring around the central column.
The bustling but relaxed atmosphere make this a great
place for a cup of coee or a glass of wine before a lm,
or at any other time of the day. They also have sweets,
snacks and a small choice of meals. Go upstairs and
youll nd the Bourbaki panorama (see p.28) - built in
1889 its the reason for the circular layout. The panorama
is a kind of 19th century precursor to the cinema, and
absolutely worth a visit. Go down the stairs to nd the
four cinema screens, where mainly studio lms are
shown, including many Swiss productions. The ground
oor is also home to the kunsthalle luzern, an art
museum which focuses on provocative, contemporary
art, showing international and Swiss artists.QC-2,
Lwenplatz 11, uLwenplatz, tel. +41 41 419 99
99, www.bourbakipanorama.ch, www.kinoluzern.ch.

24.09 THURSDAY
CIRCUIT DES YEUX
Haley Fohr's music strikes a unique balance between the
personal and universal. As Circuit des Yeux the US-American
creates music that embodies the complexity of human
emotions, juxtaposing tenderness and grief, ecstasy and horror,
using sounds as representations of the emotional spectrum
that we all experience.QSdpol. Concert starts 20:00.

Glenn Hughes, the legendary voice of rock.

SHOWS
03.10 SATURDAY 04.10 SUNDAY
TATTOO ON STAGE
The participation of formations from Eastern (Orchestra
of the Suvorov Military Academy Moscow) and Western
Europe (The Band of the Royal Regiment of Scotland,
UK), Asia (Chinese Drum Company) and Switzerland (The
Pipes and Drums of Basel) makes the Tattoo on Stage an
international show of military music.QKKL. Shows start
Sat 19:30, Sun 11:00 & 17:00. Tickets: www.kkl-luzern.ch.

ROCK, POP
& JAZZ CONCERTS
For more venues with live music, see our box 'live music
venues' on p. 25.
24.07 FRIDAY
MANDO DIAO
Mando Diao is one of Sweden's most successful rock
bands. Their mix of retro rock, casual soul-impact and
14 Lucerne In Your Pocket

PD

07.10 WEDNESDAY
GLENN HUGHES
Glenn Hughes, the legendary 'Voice of Rock 'is on tour. He
will play songs of many bands he played with in his career:
Trapeze, Deep Purple, Black Country Communion and
California Breed.QSchr. Concert starts 19:30, 35Sfr.

JAZZ & FUNK AT LOUIS BAR


At Louis Bar in the Hotel Montana there are often
jazz, funk, piano and soul concerts from Tuesday to
Sunday (usually free admission). The atmosphere here
is somewhere between glamorous and relaxed, and
if youre into this kind of music you denitely should
experience a night at the Louis Bar. If you happen to
be a whiskey lover (or if you like cigars), even better.
On Thursdays there is always a jam session (21:30).
QMontana Art Deco Hotel, Adligenswilerstrasse 2,
uCasino-Palace, www.hotel-montana.ch. In July
and August there are only jam sessions on Thursdays.
lucerne.inyourpocket.com

Summertime
Summertime ...and the living is easy. The living
denitely does get easy in summer, when life in Lucerne
goes outdoors. A grand summer day is of course ideal for
visiting a mountain peak or exploring the lake region, but
Lucerne itself has plenty of urban summer easiness to
oer. Bars and restaurants make the most of it with outside
seating, and a few bars are real summer animals, coming
out only when its warm. Daytime temperatures are
generally around 25C in July and August, and can at times
go over 30C. The rain mainly comes in thunderstorms the so-called fhn-storms - which come from the south
across the lake and can be quite violent. Otherwise, the
lake is the favourite place to be and its so clean you can
swim in it - and everybody does (Note that swimming in
the lake is not without risks and often no life guards are
present.) We list a few highlights below.

VOLIRE
On the far side of the small Inseli park, just behind the main
train station, youll nd summer hangout Volire. Run by
the local alternative youth radio station Radio 3Fach and a
student organization, this pop-up summer bar has become
renowned among locals for its delicious and aordable
vegetarian lunch set menu - which sells out fast! In the
evening they oer live concerts and a peaceful place to
watch the sun set behind the Alps.QD-4, Inseli Park,
uBahnhof, www.3fach.ch/voliere. Open 11:30 - 24:00,
Sat & Sun 11:00 - 24:00 (May until September). N

OPEN-AIR BARS
& SWIMMING PLACES
BUVETTE INSELI
This relaxed outdoor summer bar is just ve minutes walk
from the main train station on the other side of the KKL.
A simple caravan located lakeside in the Inseli park serves
drinks and is surrounded by tables, chairs and deckchairs. If
you a buy a drink, it is ne to bring your own picnic along.
They oer a lakeside BBQ on Sundays from 16:00 and
occasional open-air tango milongas in the evening.QD-4,
Inseli Park, uBahnhof. Open 11:30 - 24:00 (until Sep 20,
weather permitting).
SEEBAD
This wooden bathing house originally opened in 1885
and underwent a full refurbishment in 2010. It is a
wooden structure stretching out into the lake with two
shallow pools - but most people choose to take the stairs
at the far end into the open lake with stunning Alpine
views. There is a caf bar serving snacks, drinks and ice
creams. They also oer massages. At 20:00 they close for
bathing but remain open, with a relaxed bar vibe.QE-2,
Nationalquai, uCasino-Palace, www.seebadluzern.ch.
Open 10:00 - 20:00 (19:00 in September), Sat & Sun
09:00 - 20:00 (19:00 in September), bar/restaurant until
00:30. Admission 6/4Sr, free after 20:00. NKW
NEW
SUNSET BAR
This summer bar located over the road from Hotel Seeburg
is something of a lakeside oasis. Get comfortable in a chair, a
hammock, a double bed (!) or with your feet dangling above
the water on the pier, take a deep breath and relax in this chic
outdoor hangout. Its the perfect place for an after-work cocktail
or two. They also oer a good selection of virgin cocktails or
our personal favourite beverage on a hot day, a bitter orange
gazosa (Italian-style lemonade). If you are hungry, there is a
simple barbecue menu with burgers, homemade bratwurst
and salads.QSeeburgstrasse 53-61, uHotel Seeburg, tel.
+41 41 375 55 55, www.sunsetbar.ch. Open 15:00 - 24:00,
Sat & Sun 14:00 - 24:00 (weather dependent).
facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

Quite a sunset at Sunset bar.

PD

NEW
WALDSCHWIMMBAD ZIMMEREGG
(SWIMMING POOL)
This is an o-the-beaten-track tip to cool o in peace,
surrounded by the Zimmeregg forest. Zimmeregg facilities
include an outdoor 50-metre-long, six-lane swimming pool
and diving boards. For little ones there is a kids pool, an
86-metre waterslide and a shady playground with a climbing
tower. The on-site restaurant serves hot and cold snacks, the
local speciality being whole grilled chicken (on weekends). You
can rent swimming equipment. Reachable by bus followed
by a short walk through the forest.QSchwimmbadstrasse
/ Zimmereggstrasse, uLittau, Schwimmbad, tel. +41 41
250 31 30, www.zimmeregg-badi.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00
in June, July and August, otherwise 10:00 - 19:00. 7/5Sfr,
children under 6 free.

BOATING FUN
BOAT RENTAL
(ST. NIKLAUS SCHIFFGESELLSCHAFT)
Ready to put your captains cap on? Here you can rent
boats for an adventure on Lake Lucerne. You can take
to the lake with pedal power on a humble pedalo which makes a great bathing platform. You can also rent
rowing boats, dinghies and yachts and motorboats here.
Depending on the craft you will need to prove you have
the necessary qualications - apart from the captains
cap.QC-3, Schwanenplatz, uSchwanenplatz, tel.
+41 41 369 08 08, www.sng.ch.
July - September 2015

15

Quick picks
Drink

Do

Lads and lasses

Extrovertly Swiss and very


likeable, Wirtshaus Taube (p.
21) has a reputation for solid
fare and large portions, like their
bacon wrapped beef rolls with
gravy and mash or the giant
cordon-bleu. The historic interior
is a treat, but the outside tables
may be the better deal now.

If youre practicing for


the Beer Pong World
Series, you have a date
at the Roadhouse club
(p. 26) - every Tuesday!
But thats just the start of it: this loud
club has DJs every evening, bars on
several oors and opening hours so
long that youre sure to get your ll.

You can do the


steamship cruise
tomorrow or when
you're old. Instead
get a boat where
you're the captain you can rent a
pedalo or another boat at SNG boat
rental just opposite Schwanenplatz
(p. 15).

Couples

Whether in the light and airy


Seebistro Luz (p. 22)
inside rooms or on the lovely
exudes the languid
terrace, the Hofgarten (p. 21)
charm of 19th-century
delights with touches of modern
beach resorts. As the
design elegance. Add to that a
innuendos of the name
highly skilled kitchen team, and suggest, it's a bar-caf full of light, whether
you have the perfect place for a you're sitting on the lake side terrace or
tte--tte.
inside this Belle-Epoque pavilion.

Why not pamper yourself and your


loved one with a spa treatment?
Hotel Schweizerhof (p. 42) oers
anything from simple neck massages
to chocolate and coconut full-body
peelings for guests and external
customers. Or try the rose-petal bath
for two with champagne included.

Highend

Swimming in Lake
Lucerne (p.15) is
hugely popular with
locals and not just
with the young ones.
In many countries, lake and rivers in
urban areas are much too polluted to
swim in but luckily Switzerland
cleaned up its act around 30 years
ago and the water is clean and safe.
For a quick tasty x of fried
The cheapest drinking is outdoors with
Nearly all of the
chicken sandwich or a number bring-your-own. Drinking alcohol is
sights Lucerne is so
of other take-away treats head allowed in public spaces, so when it's
famous for and has
for Soul Chicken (p. 20). Were
warm, settle down by the lake, e.g. at
been for nearly two
not sure what they put in the
the Ufschtti (p. 28). You can buy your
centuries are free!
soul sauce but it sure is good!
booze at the train station until 22:00,
You can see the Chapel Bridge and
e.g. at Coop or Drinks of the World.
the Lion Monument without paying
a penny (p. 27-28).

The 1871 (p. 18) was opened in


that year, but its chefs denitely
keep up with the times. The
magnicent French Renaissance
dining hall, happily, has stayed in
the past. This dining experience
with its superb location right
on the lake is one of the nest
in town.

Are the names Lagavulin,


Talisker or Bowmore
sweet music to your
ears? Then you must
make sure you visit the
Louis bar (p. 23) with its really
exceptional selection of whiskeys. But this
Art-Dco hotel bar is an exquisite place to
spend an evening anyway.

With humour as its


surprising theme this
year, the Lucerne
festival (p. 13) will
be staging dozens of
outstanding concerts from August 14
to September 13. This festival guarantees for a remarkable musical
summer.

Unexpected

On the cheap

Local

Eat

With its lovely leafy outside seatPerched right on the


ing and very fair prices, Oskar
lakeshore, the Volire
(p. 18) is very popular locally. But
(p. 15) is a local open-air
what makes this place special
favourite. The beer is
are the pizzas in a true southern
brewed just around the
Italian style and the huge choice corner, you can have a glass of local
including e.g. pizza bianca.
wine and even the musical talents who
sweeten the evenings here are often
local.

Lozrner
Chgelipastetli!
You might not be
able to say it, but
you might still
like to try this culinary speciality
of Lucerne. Basically a meat pie, it
is a pu-pastry cup lled with
little sausage-meat balls (chgeli)
in a creamy sauce.

The 'beach club' is the new roof-top


The Rosengart
terrace bar at Hotel Montana (p. 43).
museum (p. 30) was
The name could be a little more subtle,
once the seat of the
but the terrace itself is phenomenal,
Swiss national bank,
with a full bar, a whirlpool, semi-private
but now it houses
sofa units for four (reserve!) and a stun- two outstanding art collections of
ning view.
Pablo Picasso and Paul Klee. The
city is extremely lucky to have these
two collections and you're lucky
you can go and see them.

16 Lucerne In Your Pocket

lucerne.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants
Lucerne's chefs have more to offer than just Swiss
classics or the Lucerner chgelipastetli. Lucerne
culinary class goes from tasty take-aways to exquisite
fine dining. You can also find food from many parts
of Asia, Europe and the Americas, while many other
places take their inspirations from a wide variety of
regional cuisines. In the reviews below, prices are
indicated with the icons - indicates most mains
are under 25Sfr, mains 25 - 40Sfr, mains 40
- 55Sfr, most mains over 55Sfr. This applies to
the evening menus, for lunch many restaurants offer
special cheaper deals (on workdays). Note that many
restaurants close their kitchens between roughly 14:00
and 17:30 and in the evening at 22:00 or 23:00. The
letter and the number (e.g. A-1) after the venue name
indicate the coordinates for finding it on the map in
the back of this guide.

Grab a meal on Mhleplatz.

Elge Kenneweg/Luzern Tourismus

ASIAN
KAITEN SUSHI-BAR
Landlocked Switzerland may not be the most obvious
place to seek out sushi, but if you are in that mood then
this ne restaurant with a focus on quality sh from
environmentally sustainable partners will not disappoint
you. Kaiten sushi means conveyor belt sushi in Japanese.
You pick and choose dishes o the belt depending on
your preferences and appetite. The coloured ring on the
plates you choose indicate the price. Kaiten also serves a
selection of other Japanese dishes and desserts.QB-5,
Kaumannweg 16, uKantonalbank, tel. +41 41 210
42 40, www.kaiten.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00,
Thu & Fri 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 17:00 - 23:00.
Closed Sun. . A
LI TAI PE
The entrance to this Chinese is a bit hidden away but
denitely worth nding. Chinese ornaments in reds and
blacks dominate inside, beside white tablecloths and fully
set tables. The menu oers a good range of dishes with an
emphasis on Sichuan cuisine and duck, but also pork, sh
and a good vegetarian selection. We recommend beef in
a hot rice crust and spicy shrimps kung bao with peanut
facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

SYMBOL KEY
A Credit cards accepted

X Smoker lounge

E Live music

N No credit cards

S Take away

C-1 Map coordinates

u Nearest (trolley)bus stop

B Outdoor seating

sauce. Not a cheap Chinese, but a place for a proper meal.


Popular with visitors from the Far East.QB-3, Furrengasse
14, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 10 23,
www.litaipe.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:30, 17:30 - 23:00, Sat &
Sun 11:00 - 23:00. . AB
NEW
MASALA
Brothers Dony and Rony from Bangladesh run this
Indian restaurant on two-floors of a charming building
up the road from the Lion Monument. During the
week they serve a buffet at lunchtime with starters,
mains and desserts and including water, beer and
tea or coffee. Choose from the menu in the evening.
On Friday and Saturday nights they serve up a grand
buffet where you can order a plate or an all you can
eat option depending on your appetite with vegan
options available and friendly service included.QC-1,
Steinenstrasse 2, uWesemlinrain, tel. +41 41 240
12 64, www.masala-luzern.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00,
17:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 17:30 - 23:30. Closed Mon. .
ABS

CHEESE RESTAURANTS
The Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette,
originally come from the French speaking areas of
Switzerland. Fondue is basically a mix of melted cheese
and white wine bubbling over a small burner which
you dip bread cubes into, while raclette is pure melted
cheese which is poured over boiled potatoes.
FONDUE HOUSE
Step through the door of this old-town house and
you nd yourself in a mountain cabin - and a good
place to taste your way through everything fonduelike. The combo menus give you three fondues in one
meal - choose from cheese, bourguignonne (meats in
oil), chinoise (meats in broth) and chocolate. Bread,
potatoes, sauces and more are served to dip and as
sides. Not exactly authentic, as Swiss dont mix fondues
like this, but if you want to try everything in one go,
this is your opportunity. The combos are not cheap,
however.QB-3, Eisengasse 15, uSchwanenplatz,
tel. +41 41 412 37 37, www.fondue-house.ch. Open
11:00 - 23:00. . AB
July - September 2015

17

Restaurants
FINE DINING
1871
This lakeside restaurant located in Hotel National (the
restaurant is named after the year in which the hotel was
rst opened) oers a modern ne-dining experience in a
grand ve-star hotel, whilst at the same time it manages
to remain down to earth creating a relaxed atmosphere.
Its focus is on simple dishes made with the nest local
seasonal produce and the menu changes every two
months. Aside from dinner, they also oer good value
lunch menus and brunch on Sundays. The food is good
but the highlight is the location: enjoy your food in the
charming high-ceilinged French Renaissance dining hall
or on the ground level terrace overlooking Lake Lucerne.
QD-3, Haldenstrasse 4, uLuzernerhof, tel. +41 41 422
18 71, www.1871.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 18:00. Closed Mon. . AB

The hotel Zum Schlssel has a ne restaurant too.

PD

RESTAURANT ZUM SCHLSSEL


Chef Franz Mair cultivates traditional Austrian cuisine,
with a few Swiss touches thrown in. Whether its the Swiss
essential lambs lettuce with croutons, diced boiled egg
and bacon paired with pumpkin seed oil from the Austrian
Steiermark region, tafelspitz (prime boiled beef ) with
horse radish sauce or grstl (or rsti) with black pudding
(blood sausage) - his team works to high standards.
Add an old-town house with ornate wooden oors and
ceilings, thoughtful hospitality and genuine friendliness
and you have a thoroughly enjoyable experience.QA-4,
Franziskanerplatz 12, uFranziskanerplatz, tel. +41
41 210 10 61, www.schluessel-luzern.ch. Open 09:00 22:30, Thu - Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun closed. . AB
WIEDERKEHR
This friendly family-run restaurant with 13 Gault & Millau
points is hidden away between Zrichstrasse and the Lion
Monument. The focus is on using seasonal and regional
products, often prepared with a new twist. Head chef
Markus Thomczyk is renowned for his classic-modern
approach. On warm days you can enjoy your meal sitting
out on the restaurant terrace. As with many restaurants in
18 Lucerne In Your Pocket

Lucerne, Wiederkehr oers good value lunch menus on


weekdays.QC-1, Zrichstrasse 16, uLwenplatz, tel.
+41 41 410 41 44, www.restaurant-wiederkehr.ch. Open
11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, closed Sun
& Mon. Closed July 19 - August 10, 2015. . AB

INTERNATIONAL
EL RINCON ARGENTINO
This cosy, romantic Argentinian restaurant runs with the
slogan save the vegetables, eat meat and once you try
its beefsteak it will all make sense. The beef tenderloin or
rumpsteak melts in your mouth and you can order your
beef portion by the weight depending on your appetite
(and the size of your wallet). They also oer empanadas to
eat in or take away or you can stock up on other Argentinian
delicacies including wine. Be sure to book in advance, the
chances of getting a table on the night are very small.
QB-5, Moosstrasse 15, uMoosegg, tel. +41 41 240 60
50, www.el-rincon-argentino.ch. Open Thu & Fri 18:00 23:30, Sat 09:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun - Wed. .
NEW
WEISSES SCHLOSS
This place is called the White Castle and oers a charming
ambience inside. On a warm evening take a seat on the
terrace, where you can sit beneath vines in a ne al fresco
atmosphere, despite the city-centre location. The menu is
creative although a touch pricey, serving up both European
and Asian classics with some fusion dishes, such as the
seared lake char with wasabi and potato mash. QB-5,
Moosstrasse 7, uMoosegg, tel. +41 41 227 00 00,
www.weissesschloss.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 22:00. . AB

ITALIAN
GROTTINO 1313
This wooden hut in the industrial area of town is not what
you would expect - it has long been considered one of
Lucernes best-kept secrets. With a log re, an open kitchen,
candlelit tables and mamma-style Italian cooking it is hard
to resist. There is a set four-course menu (64Sfr), but you can
opt out on courses if you like. Soup, salad, pasta and main
courses are served in big bowls and placed in the middle
of your table for you to help yourself. They also serve twocourse lunches (20 Sfr) and have started oering a Sunday
brunch.QC-6, Industriestrasse 7, uWerkhofstrasse, tel.
+41 41 610 13 13, www.grottino1313.ch. Open 11:30 14:00, 18:00 - 23:30, Sat 18:00 - 23:30, Sun 09:30 - 14:00,
17:00 - 22:30. . AB
NEW
OSKAR
This is a new Italian place, which has quickly built up a
solid reputation for its pizza made with special homemade
dough. Rightly so, we think. The place is cosy but can get
a little warm inside, so maybe take a seat outside on the
terrace on a summers eve. Beside pizza it oers a handful
lucerne.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants
DECODING THE MENU

A true gem: restaurant Felsenegg.

PD

of seasonal pasta, risotto and meat dishes. One of the few


restaurants in town oering gluten-free options.QA-6,
Neustadtstrasse 27, uBundesplatz, tel. +41 41 210
08 04, www.oskar-luzern.ch. Open 17:00 till late, Sun
& Mon closed. Thu open for lunch 11:30 - 13:30. .
ABS

MEDITERRANEAN
FELSENEGG GARTEN RESTAURANT
A true gem in the Lucerne restaurant scene. Charismatic
host Franco will welcome you in, whilst Domenico
prepares mouth-watering dishes for your delight. The
fresh daily menus are written on the black board, Italianstyle (just one meat, sh and vegetarian menu available),
you can decide if you would like to take all courses or to
select specic dishes. Even though the restaurant is on a
busy road, in summer you can eat in the garden behind
the restaurant and you quickly forget that youre in a city.
Denitely call in advance to book a table as it is often
booked out. They also oer great value lunch menus.
QC-2, Maihofstrasse 4, uSchlossberg, tel. +41 41 420
10 13, www.felsenegg-luzern.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00,
18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat & Sun. Open Sat evening in
July, Aug, Nov, Dec. . AB
SCHLSSLI UTENBERG
Built in 1757, this small castle on the hill surrounded by
parkland overlooks Lucerne, the lake and the mountain
panorama. The building was renovated in the midnineties and opened as a restaurant-caf in 1997. Serving
up coee, tea and cakes, cocktails, a Mediterranean
inuenced menu at lunch time or in the evening and a
selection of cigars, it has something for all moods. In
good weather sit outside and soak up the peaceful and
romantic ambiance, whilst enjoying the delightful view.
QUtenberg 643, uKonservatorium, tel. +41 41 420
00 22, www.schloessliutenberg.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:00,
18:00 - 24:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon &
Tue. . AB
facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

General terms
Kse
paniert
Pfeer
Salz
Zucker

cheese
breaded
pepper
salt
sugar

Fleisch
Braten
Bratwurst
Chgelispastetli
Kalb
Lamm
Poulet, Hhnchen
Rind
Schnitzel
Schwein
Ghackets
Geschnetzeltes

Meat
roast
sausage
pu pastry with meat sauce
veal (or calf )
lamb
chicken
beef
cutlet, often breaded
pork
mince meat
meat in bite-size pieces

Fisch
Egli
Forelle
Felchen

Fish
European perch
trout
common whitesh

Beilagen
Bratkartoeln
Kartoeln
Nudeln
Pommes Frites
Sptzli
Speck

Side dishes
roast potatoes
potatoes
pasta
french fries, potato chips
egg noodles
bacon

Dessert
Apfelstrudel
(Schokoladen) Kuchen
Tiramisu

Desserts
apple pie
(chocolate) cake
Italian cream dessert

Romantik Hotel
Wilden Mann
Restaurants
Sauvage
&
Burgerstube
8||n8bNObb
Tel. 041 210 16 66
Yb~8O|

July - September 2015

19

Restaurants
SWISS CUISINE
What the Swiss like to eat at home and when out
is heavily inuenced by their neighbours cuisine,
especially the Italians. But what is real Swiss cuisine?
Most Swiss would probably say: ksefondue (cheese
fondue), a hot soup of cheese and white wine eaten by
dunking cubes of bread in it. Delicious, but the smell
can take getting used to! Raclette is another cheese
speciality, melted cheese on potatoes served with
dierent pickles and sides. Wrste or sausages are also
very Swiss, the bratwurst (usually veal) and cervelat
(pork) being the most common. One of the Lucerne
specialities is Lozrner Chgelipastetli, basically a meat
pie, it is a pu-pastry cup lled with little sausage-meat
balls (chgeli) and sometimes innards (sweetbread)
and mushrooms in a creamy sauce. Also on the list
of Swiss traditionals is rsti, a cake of grated and fried
potatoes similar to hash browns. Switzerland has an
impressive range of breads to go with the famous
cheeses, e.g. the rich zopf (plaited loaf ) is a favourite
for Sunday breakfasts. Fondue chinoise and fondue
bourgignonne are not traditionally Swiss, strictly
speaking, but these two meat fondues are very popular
too. Both involve dipping meat into a pot, full of either
hot broth (chinoise) or oil (bourgignonne) and then
enjoying with a range of sauces and sides.

xed price.QC-1, Zrichstrasse 66, uSchlossberg, tel.


+41 41 420 16 16, www.churrascaria-do-sul.ch. Open
11:00 - 14:30, 17:00 - 00:30, Mon & Tue only 11:00 14:30, Sat & Sun 17:00 - 00:30. . A

SWISS
As its sometimes hard to tell what Swiss cuisine really is
(see Swiss cuisine), we list some traditional restaurants here
as well as some that interpret Swissness in a modern way.
If you want to try the Swiss cheese specialities fondue and
raclette, see the box on p. 17.
BURGERSTUBE (HOTEL WILDEN MANN)
Not a burger parlour, this is in fact the place to come if you
are looking for high-quality traditional Swiss cuisine with a
modern twist. The cosy candlelit, rustic interior makes you
feel like you have gone back in time. The menu mixes Swiss
classics such as bratwurst, cordon bleu and the Lucerne
speciality chgelipastetli (see decoding the menu) with
more experimental dishes such as the poached scallops in
an elderberry sauce or a mixed spring salad with dandelion,
red radish and sugar peas served with rhubarb-yogurt
dressing. Something for both the nostalgic and the curious
among us.QA-4, Bahnhofstrasse 30, uBahnhof, tel.
+41 41 210 16 66, www.wilden-mann.ch. Open 10:30 24:00, kitchen open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. . A

QUICK EATS
NEW
SOUL CHICKEN
It calls itself the chicken restaurant with soul and if you are
a passionate chicken fan, then its worth checking out this
place. The concept combines fast food with a decor which
is anything but mass produced. You almost feel like you are
in someones living room. Lightly fried chicken, French fries,
soul or garlic sauce and freshly baked white baguette make
up the heart of the menu. Due to the limited seating this is
not the place where you would spend the whole eve, but
if you want to grab a quick bite to eat its perfect. A second
outlet with an extended menu called Soul Sandwich kiosk
just opened on Werchlaubengssli 8,QB-3, Lwengraben
31, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 79 537 24 82,
www.soulchicken.ch. Open Mon - Fri 11:30 - 14:30,
17:30 - 22:00, Sat 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. . ABS

STEAKHOUSES
CHURRASCARIA DO SUL
The concept at the Churrascaria Do Sul is uncompromising:
Brazilian churrascaria in pure form. For a xed price, a
selection of up to eight meats is served to your table
direct o the skewer, direct from the barbecue. There is a
vegetarian alternative, grilled vegetables and savoury lled
pancakes. Other dishes? Negative. This is a grill house. The
meats are of course served with side dishes and the best
thing is: they keep on coming until you say stop. For one
20 Lucerne In Your Pocket

Stately house, rustic interior: Burgerstube.

PD

NEW
FRITSCHI
The colourful frescoed building in the heart of the old town
dates back to 1602, the impressive painting, however, is a
replica, which ts to the restaurant inside. The rustic decor
with carnival masks on the walls represents how a visitor
may perceive Lucerne of old, but you are unlikely to meet a
local in here. The Swiss signature dishes of cheese or meat
fondue, raclette and rsti can be ordered throughout the
year. We experienced the waiting sta, however, as rather
unfriendly. The restaurant name refers to the legend of
Brother Fritschi who left some money to the Safran guild
on condition that during carnival they serve wine to the
poor for free. Now thats a good deed!QB-3, Sternenplatz
5, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 16 15. Open 11:30
- 21:30. . A
lucerne.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants
VEGETARIAN
HOFGARTEN
Formerly a vegetarian restaurant, Hofgarten now serves
meat and sh but continues to oer the best selection of
vegetarian dishes in town. Using primarily organic, animalfriendly, market fresh ingredients from local farmers,
the food not only looks good but tastes delicious too.
It oers great salads and homemade soups and a SwissMediterranean menu, is open 365 days a year and operates
as a caf between meal times.QD-2, Stadthofstrasse 14,
uWey, tel. +41 41 410 88 88, www.hofgarten.ch. Open
11:30 - 14:45, 18:00 - 21:30. . AB
Full steam ahead to dinner: Wilhelm Tell restaurant.

PD

STADTKELLER
The Stadtkeller in the heart of the old town stages a Swiss
folklore show from April through October. In the rustical
surroundings you can enjoy surprisingly good Swiss cuisine
to a show presenting various Swiss traditions such as
yodelling, Swiss Alpine horn blowing and ag waving. The
show also has an interactive element where members of
the audience are invited up on stage to try out the various
customs. Few Swiss people practice these traditions these
days, but the show is nonetheless good fun and relaxed.
QB-3, Sternenplatz 3, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41
410 47 33, www.swissfolkloreshow.com. Admission
show and lunch 54 - 65Sfr / dinner 72 - 82Sfr. Lunch show
starts 12:15, duration approx. 1h, dinner show starts after
20:00, approx. 1.5h, restaurant opens 18:30. AK

Floating restaurant
anchored on Schweizerhofquai, Luzern

tel. +41 41 410 23 30, www.schiffrestaurant.ch

WILHELM TELL (SCHIFFRESTAURANT)


The Wilhelm Tell, named after the mythical Swiss national
hero, is a retired paddle steamer moored just past the Hotel
Schweizerhof. Step on board for a drink and sandwich on
deck, descend into the hold for a cosy dinner or adjourn to
the captains salon in original Art Nouveau design for the
four-course dinner. The kitchen produces Swiss standards
like schnitzel, deep fried battered pike-perch and a seasonal
menu including local beef, sh and a varied selection
of vegetarian dishes. The food quality is good, but the
atmosphere and the views are what you come for here.
QC-3, Schweizerhofquai, uLuzernerhof, tel. +41 41
410 23 30, www.schiffrestaurant.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00,
Sun 11:00 - 23:00, Mon closed. . AB
WIRTSHAUS TAUBE
Your rst glance at the menu might have you wondering
what strange language its in, but its just Swiss German.
Friendly as they are here, theyve added English below (and
standard German!). The menus inspiration is thoroughly
Swiss too, but its far more imaginative than the typical
Swiss repertoire. Besides the Lucerne speciality veal
dumplings in a pu pastry pie, the heart of the menu are
the meat patties, in variations with Alpine cheese, herb
liquor or mushrooms. Two are even vegetarian!QA-4,
Burgerstrasse 3, uHirzenhof, tel. +41 41 210 07 47,
www.taube-luzern.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, closed Sun,
except in July and August. . AB
facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

Sternenplatz 3 CH-6004 Luzern


Telefon +41 41 410 47 33 Fax +41 41 410 61 33
info@stadtkeller.ch www.stadtkeller.ch

July - September 2015

21

Cafs
Coee culture in Switzerland is heavily inuenced by
Italy, and many of Lucerne's bars and cafs are equipped
with excellent Italian espresso machines. Cafs specialise
on coee, tea and sweets, but in many you'll get meals,
snacks and alcohol too - the boundary between bars and
cafs is not a strict one.
ALFRED CAFFEBAR
This tiny Italian caf on the street corner oers Italian-style
espresso at the bar. Alternatively you can take a seat at one
of the few tables outside (or inside if you prefer), take a deep
breath and relax. This calm space specializes in quality baristamade coee. For those with an empty stomach, it oers
homemade soup of the day and tramezzini sandwiches made
with local produce.QB-6, Bleicherstrasse 1, uBundesplatz,
www.alfred-caffebar.ch. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Thu & Fri
07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. B
CAF DE VILLE (SCHWANEN)
This classy French-inuenced Art Dco caf and restaurant
situated on the rst oor by Schwanenplatz on the lakeside,
provides a variety of international newspapers for guests
to enjoy. The high ceilinged rooms and parquet oors only
add to the charm. Take a look out the window and enjoy
the picture postcard views of Lake Lucerne, Mount Rigi and
the other Alpine foothills or on summer days sit out on the
terrace. It oers business lunch menus during the week and
a fabulous Sunday buet brunch which includes sashimi.
QC-3, Schwanenplatz 4, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41
410 11 77, www.cafedeville.ch. Open 07:00 - 19:30, Sat
07:00 - 18:30, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. .

BREAKFAST
Sunday breakfast is an institution in many Swiss
families. Zopf is one of the mainstays of Swiss
breakfasts, a rich white bread baked in the shape of a
braid, and is served with butter, jams, honey, cheeses
or cold meats. Swiss bakeries bake a huge variety
of breads - rye bread, maize bread or potato-andwalnut bread to name just a few - which add to the
breakfast spread. Buttery croissants, called gipfeli in
Swiss German, are also a favourite. Another breakfast
dish with strong roots in Switzerland is mesli, made of
oat akes, grated apple, ground hazelnuts and yoghurt
in the classic birchermesli version. Many Swiss dont
consider breakfast complete without one of the many
takes on the mesli-theme.
Here come our favourite breakfast places:
HEINI, one of Lucernes traditional bakery-cafs popular
with locals young and old, several set breakfasts and
additional options. Every day. (B-3, Hertensteinstrasse
66, +41 41 412 20 20).
LUZ SEEBSITRO, a lovely quiet spot right on the lake
with a small breakfast menu with all essentials like
croissants and birchermesli, see overleaf.
22 Lucerne In Your Pocket

Italian-style espresso and coziness: Alfred.

PD

NEW
CRAZY CUPCAKE CAF
For all cupcake fetishists and vegans with a sweet tooth,
this cosy little caf in the Bruchquartier is heaven. The
cheesecake and carrot cupcakes are to die for! If you would
prefer something with a distinctly Swiss touch, go for the
ovomaltine ones. For vegans try the banana cupcake or
the selection of vegan ice creams. Classic old furniture, a
charming antique cash register and a friendly host welcome
you through the door. If it is full there are a few more seats
in the back room.QA-4, Bruchstrasse 47, uHirzenhof,
tel. +41 41 240 56 65, www.crazycupcake.ch.
Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sun & Mon closed. BW
JAZZKANTINE
The Jazzkantine was opened as an initiative of the Lucerne
jazz school in 1997. Since then it has become a staple in the
old-town caf scene. At street level it is a caf and simple
restaurant with wooden furnishings in the style of a Dutch
brown cafe, in summer you can sit outside. Downstairs they
have a venue, used primarily for jazz concerts but also the
occasional performance or club night. It is popular among
locals, has a down-to-earth atmosphere and is renowned for
its ne coee.QB-3, Grabenstrasse 8, uSchwanenplatz,
tel. +41 41 410 73 73, www.jazzkantine.ch. Open 09:00 00:30. Closed Sun. B
LUZ SEEBISTRO
If you nd yourself at the main train station with some
time on your hands, this is a ne place to hang out. Walk
out of the front of the station and straight ahead to where
the public boats on Lake Lucerne depart from. You will
see a glass structure sitting on the water and that is Caf
Luz. Soaked in daylight during the day and lit by a grand
chandelier at night, this is a bustling place. They have a
terrace on the waterside and some seats and a barbecue
grill on the station side, serving BBQ specialities such as
Swiss sausages and halloumi cheese sandwiches.QC-4,
Bahnhofplatz (Schiandungsbrcke 1), uBahnhof, tel.
+41 41 367 68 72, www.luzseebistro.ch. Open 08:00 22:00, Thu - Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. B
lucerne.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife
Lucerne might be small, but as a cultural centre it
draws people from all over Central Switzerland. This means
it pulls far more weight than mere numbers would suggest.
Dozens of bars and clubs jostle for custom, meaning there's
something for almost every taste. For high-end nightlife
head for the bars of the grand hotels, for the ipside dive
into the vibrant student and alternative scene. You'll also
nd pubs and casual bars, as well as live music venues and
large mainstream clubs. Check out our listings, and take
your pick. As many bars don't take cards, it's a good idea
to have cash handy!

CASUAL BARS
NEW
BAR 58
Candlelit, a piano in the corner, old furniture and the tiniest
and possibly strangest DJ desk location above the entrance:
this is a place where people come to nish the night, and
perhaps partake of the selection of single malt whiskies on
oer. Once upon a time there was a Bar 57 located among
the high-class hotels on the lakeside. Then came Bar 58,
Bar 57 closed and a few years later Bar 59 opened. Bar 58,
one of the smallest bars in Lucerne, is now run by dierent
hosts, but the olde world slightly kitsch decor remains
similar.QA-4, Klosterstrasse 5, uHirzenhof, tel. +41 79
303 01 55, www.bar58.ch. Open 20:00 - 02:00, Fri - Sat
20:00 - 03:00. X

SYMBOL KEY
A Credit cards accepted

N No credit cards

E Concerts

X Smoker lounge

K Restaurant

W Wi- connection

u Nearest (trolley)bus stop A-1 Map coordinates

MEYER. KULTURBEIZ.
This bar recently moved to a new larger location
with a modern yet cosy decor. It offers a platform
for Lucerne-based artists and musicians, through
regular exhibitions and a handful of performances
and concerts each month. Drinks are served from an
island in the middle of the candlelit room and smoking
is allowed from 17:00 onwards. They serve vegetarian
focussed lunch menus and snacks in the evening.
QC-6, Bundesplatz 3, uBundesplatz, tel. +41 41
210 21 50, www.meyerambundesplatz.ch. Open
08:00 - 00:30. Closed Sun. X

CLASSY BARS
LOUIS BAR (ART DCO HOTEL MONTANA)
The Louis is very much the grand hotel bar, with
chandliers, stucco-decorated ceilings, lots of ornate
wood panelling, a grand piano and a huge selection
of over 130 whiskeys. But the namesake trumpeter is
no empty reference, as there is live music, very often
jazz, and jam sessions on Thursdays (admission free).
The adjacent Hemingway lounge is for smokers, as has
a selection of cigars and over 60 exquisite rums.QE-2,
Adligenswilerstrasse 22, uCasino-Palace, tel. +41 41
419 00 00, www.hotel-montana.ch/louis-bar. Open
17:00 - 00:30, Fri & Sat 17:00 - 02:00. AEX

CASINO
Modern and intimate: Meyer.Kulturbeiz.

PD

BAR CAPITOL
Bar Capitol is a place where many locals end the night if
they dont feel like dancing. A smoking bar, Capitol has a
good selection of local and international quality spirits
including the old favourite honig-chrter, which is a
honey and herb schnapps. They serve toasties, schnitzel
sandwiches and ammkuchen, a pizza-style dish from the
Alsace region of France. There is limited outdoor seating,
however it is on a busy road and by the train tracks, thus it
might not be your rst choice for al fresco drinking.QC-5,
Zentralstrasse 45a, uBahnhof, www.barcapitol.ch.
Open 16:00 - 00:30, Thu & Fri 16:00 - 02:30, Sat 14:00 02:30, Sun 13:00 - 00:30. X
facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

GRAND CASINO LUZERN


250 slot machines with sky high jackpots and the
table games American roulette, black jack, punto
banco and poker await you in the citys very own
casino. For your physical well-being there are bars
in the gambling area as well as the restaurant Olivo
within the premises. The casino has a smokers
section. To get access you need to be at least
18 years old, well dressed (jeans are fine, but no
sportswear) and carry a valid passport or European
ID card or driving licence.QD-2, Haldenstrasse
6, uHaldensteig, tel. +41 41 418 56 56,
www.grandcasinoluzern.ch. Open 12:00 - 04:00,
Fri & Sat 12:00 - 05:00, table games start 14:00.
Admission after 16:00: 10Sfr.
July - September 2015

23

Nightlife
QUEER LUCERNE
The atmosphere in Lucerne is refreshingly open,
relaxed and queer-friendly for such a small city. In 2005
local citizens voted in favour of registered partnerships
for same sex-couples and in the weeks following the
referendum the city hosted the national Pride festival. It
is common to see same-sex couples showing aection
in public. Each November the weeklong Pink Panorama
lm festival, now in its 14th year, shows LGBTQI lms
from around the globe and alternative queer platform
kopfkino (www.facebook.com/kopfkino.ch) host
regular parties in Treibhaus. There are few queer bars
as such in Lucerne, but regular parties taking place at
various locations around the city.
FRIGAY NIGHT (AT THE LOFT CLUB)
This popular commercial monthly gay night takes place
on the third Friday of every month. House, chart, rnb and
mashup music keep the danceoor full. Drinks are fairly
expensive.QD-2, Haldenstrasse 21, uLuzernerhof,
www.frigaynight.ch. Every third friday of the month,
23:00 - 05:00. Admission 15 Sfr.
QUEERBAD (AT NEUBAD)
A new weekly gathering each Tuesday at the Neubad
bar is open to all queers and friends of all ages and
backgrounds. As there are no gay bars as such in
Lucerne, local collective Queer Oce decided to set
up a weekly hang out for people to meet and chat. On
Saturday August 22 from 5pm, Queer Oce will host
a summer festival at Neubad with barbecue, garden
cinema and a disco.QBireggstrasse 36, uSteghof,
www.neubad.org, www.queeroffice.ch.
NEW
PEPERONCINI OBERGRUND
Try one of the Peperoncinis local cocktail creations, for
example the Swiss Kiss (passoa, passionfruit juice and
rivella) or a more classic Manhattan. Leather sofas, stools
and high tables ll the darkly furnished room of the bar on
the ground oor, giving a relaxed but chic feel. Covered
al fresco seating surrounds the peninsula-style building;
grab a seat on the quieter side if you can. In the basement
there is a pizzeria with a wood-re oven, but you can eat
upstairs in the bar too. There is a second branch on the
other side of the train station at Rsslimatte 41QB-6,
Obergrundstrasse 50, uPaulusplatz, tel. +41 41 240 20
00, www.peperoncini.ch. Open Mon - Thu 07:00 - 23:00,
Fri & Sat 07:00 - 00:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. BW
SUITE (HOTEL MONOPOL)
Suite is a stylish bar overlooking the roofs of Lucerne. In
the top oor of the hotel Monopol, it has views of the lake
and the mountains. A youngish crowd comes here for the
regular house DJ sets, occasional live concerts and diligent
cocktail drinking - and they dress up before they come! The
Suite also has an ambitious bar menu with sushi, antipasti
24 Lucerne In Your Pocket

and other ngerfood (except Sun).QC-4, Pilatusstrasse 1,


uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 210 21 31, www.suite-lounge.ch.
Open 17:00 - 00:30, Thu 17:00 - 01:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:30,
Sat 16:00 - 02:30, Sun 14:00 - 00:30. AEK

ALTERNATIVE BARS
ALPINEUM KAFFEEHAUS BAR
Located just metres from the famous Lion Monument, this
bars interior has natural elements like a stone brick wall but
with a modern design and oers both indoor and outdoor
seating. It serves drinks in the evening and breakfast and
creative lunch menus earlier and is popular with a young
alternative / hipster crowd of Lucerne creative types.QC-2,
Denkmalstrasse 11, uLwenplatz, tel. +41 77 424 90
98, www.facebook.com/alpineum. Open 08:00 - 00:30,
Sat 09:00 - 00:30, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. NKX

All ready for some rocknroll at Bruch brothers.

PD

NEUBAD
A reection of contemporary alternative culture in Lucerne,
Neubad is a bar, bistro, performance space, urban garden
and a coworking space for artists and creative industries. It is
housed in the former city swimming baths, made available
by the city council for at least until 2018. In the evening it
is a bar with events such as burger and piano night (a free
beer, if you get up to play the piano), round the table ping
pong and swimming pool cinema. It oers aordable and
creative menus on weekday lunchtimes, brunch Tue - Sun
till 16:00 and a big ea market in the pool once a month.
QBireggstrasse 36, MSteghof, tel. +41 41 360 60 66,
www.neubad.org. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Thu - Sat 09:00 00:30, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. ENKW

PUBS & TAVERNS


MR. PICKWICK PUB
For an English-pub atmosphere, Mr. Pickwick on the River
Reuss in the old town is a great place to go. There are
several beers on tap, including Guinness, Boddingtons
and McEwans, as well as cider and local lager like Eichhof.
There is also a wide choice of pub food like burgers, salads
or shnchips and live sports on big screen TV. In summer
there are outdoor tables in this rather lovely location.QB-3,
Rathausquai 6, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 59 27,
www.pickwick.ch. Open 11:30 - 00:00. A
lucerne.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife
THE BRUCH BROTHERS
Here is the Lucerne version of a sports (especially football)
pub. A little cosier than a typical sports bar, though dark
with limited daylight, they show football matches from
the Champions League, English Premier League, German
Bundesliga, Italian Serie A and the Primera Division from
Spain and of course the Swiss Superleague featuring the
mighty FC Luzern. After the nal whistle has blown, the
music starts and the place transforms into a rock bar, with
DJs, concerts, open-mic nights and occasionally karaoke.
QA-3, Baselstrasse 7, uKasernenplatz, tel. +41 41 240
53 00, www.bruch-brothers.ch. Open 17:00 - 00:30, Thu
17:00 - 02:30, Fri 17:00 - 03:30, Sat 14:00 - 03:30, Sun
14:00 - 00:30. Closed Mon. W

DANCE BARS
DAS SCHWARZE SCHAF / DAS WEISSE SCHAF
At ground level you will nd das weisse Schaf bar, which
translates as white sheep and opens earlier for pre-dancing
drinks and cocktails and oers free Wi-. Downstairs the black
sheep, das schwarze Schaf dancing bar, plays commercial
pop and club hits. Incidentally, the bars are not linked to the
conservative Swiss Peoples Party notorious black and white
sheep poster campaign, referring to non-Swiss and Swiss
citizens.QC-4, Frankenstrasse 2, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41
210 43 35, www.dasschwarzeschaf.ch. Das weisse Schaf:
open from 17:00, Fri & Sat from 16:00. Closed Sun. Das
schwarze Schaf: Thu, Fri & Sat only 22:00 - 04:00. AW
PENTHOUSE (HOTEL ASTORIA)
True to its name, the penthouse is in the top oors of the
hotel Astoria, stretching over two oors and generous
outdoor terrace areas with views of the town and the
mountains. But when things get going here, most people
are more interested in viewing who is dancing either side
of them. DJs play house and chart hits from the 70s to
today every Thursday, Friday and Saturday and every speck
of oor between the sofas and the bar is used for dancing.
QB-5, Pilatusstrasse 29, uKantonalbank, tel. +41
41 226 88 88, www.penthouse-luzern.ch. Open 17:00
- 00:30, Thu 17:00 - 01:30, Fri 17:00 - 03:30, Sat 18:00 03:30. Generally admission is free. A

Goddesses at Penthouse bar.

facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

PD

LIVE MUSIC VENUES


Lucerne oers all kind of live music: jazz, pop, rock,
metal, indie, gothic and much more. You will nd a
band playing somewhere nearly every night of the year,
but the weekends are busier. The clubs and bars listed
here focus on live music - we tell what you can usually
expect. For their daily programme, check the websites.
SCHR (KONZERTHAUS)
An old wooden barn seven minutes walk from the
train station plays host to local bands and international
acts. The likes of Coco Rosie, De la Soul, Maceo Parker
and Anthrax have all played here. Concerts take place
upstairs. Downstairs there is a bar with a popular salsa
night on Thursdays. There is a garden out back which
in summer oers a relaxing hang out on balmy nights.
QC-6, Tribschenstrasse 1, uBundesplatz, tel. +41
41 368 10 30, www.schuur.ch. N
NEW
SEDEL
This slightly scary looking building on the top of a hill on the
outskirts of Lucerne was a prison until 1971. 10 years later
it opened as a cultural centre. The former prison cells are
now rehearsal rooms for local musicians and the club has
regular live music and DJs representing a wide spectrum
of musical genres, from punk to electro. Due to its out-oftown location, there is the Sedel shuttle bus for all events
which stops at Lwenplatz, Bundesplatz and Kasernenplatz
in town before the 10-minute hilly drive to Sedel. See
website for schedule.QSedelhof 2, uGopplismoos, tel.
+41 41 420 63 10, www.sedel.ch. N

CLASSICAL DANCING
Classical dancing has its acionados in Lucerne, though
they may not always be so easy to nd. The venues and
events we list below should give you a head start.
SALSA
SALSA 59
Every Tuesday, Bar 59 becomes the sizzling centre of
the local salsa scene. The DJs play salsa and Latino,
and there is also a dancing instructor for beginners.
QC-6, Bar 59, Industriestrasse 5, uBrnigstrasse,
www.bar59.ch. Every Tue from 20:30 - 00:30. No
salsa parties in July & August.
TANGO
BESITO MILONGA
This tango school oers courses during the week, but
Friday nights are milonga practice. Great, if all you want to
do is dance!QA-3, St. Karlistrasse 4, uBrggligasse,
tel. +41 078 765 58 80, www.tangostudio.ch. Every
Friday 20:45 - 01:00. Fewer parties in summer, check
website. Admission 10/5 Sfr.
July - September 2015

25

Nightlife
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
Swiss laws are quite liberal in regard to the sex
business: prostitution is legal, both on the streets and in
brothels and similar establishments. Both are regulated
however, and street prostitution particularly is only
legal in very few areas. In Lucerne youll nd strip clubs
- usually called nightclubs or cabarets - in the centre
as well as in the hotspot around Baselstrasse. What you
can expect there are expensive drinks (approx. 20Sfr for
a beer) and shows with half-naked ladies dancing on a
pole until they are entirely naked. In so called contact
bars you can meet a prostitute and accompany her to
a room nearby, where as in brothels, sex and sauna
clubs the oer is even more direct. Most of these
establishments are concentrated in the area around
Baselstrasse and Bernstrasse. As in other places, many
prostitutes work because they have few other income
options or, even worse, because they are forced to.
CACADOU CLUB
The entrance to this contact bar is just right of
Chimneys restaurant, up a ight of stairs. Drinks here
are normally priced, the ladies will tell you their prices
personally. Within hotel Hirschen.QB-3, Hirschenplatz
2, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 51 50,
www.nightlife-lucerne.ch. Open 13:00 - 02:30, Fri &
Sat 13:00 - 03:30.

CLUBS
CASINEUM
Embedded within the Neo-Baroque lakeside Grand Casino
building, Casineum is made up of three dierent spaces.
The main hall, the gallery overlooking the main hall and
the more minimalist club room. The program includes jazz
concerts, improvisation theatre battles and club nights
later on the weekends.QD-2, Haldenstrasse 6, uCasino,
www.casineum.ch. Open Fri & Sat 22:00/23:00 - 04:00,
occasionally parties on Thu & Sun. Admission 15 - 20 Sfr.
KLUB KEGELBAHN
Klub Kegelbahn is part of the new party mile between
Kasernenplatz along Baselstrasse to Kreuzstutz. This former
bowling hall is now a meeting place for music lovers. The
club owner likes good music, whether it be jazz, northern
soul, dub or electronic beats.QA-3, Baselstrasse 24,
uGtsch, www.klubkegelbahn.ch. Open Thu 22:00 late (closed in summer), Fri & Sat 23:00 - late.
ROADHOUSE
The roadhouse is a big club just across from the railway
station, with three oors and DJs every night of the week.
With their extremely long opening hours, this is a pit stop
for all those who dont want to go home yet. They have beer
pong on Tuesdays.QC-4, Pilatusstrasse 1, uBahnhof,
tel. +41 41 220 27 27, www.roadhouse.ch. Open 07:00 04:00, Fri 07:00 - 05:00, Sat 09:00 - 08:00, Sun 09:00 - 04:00.

NEU

Bubi eifach zum Ticket!


App downloaden und mit zwei Klicks Ihr Passepartout-Ticket schnell,
einfach und sicher ber Ihr Smartphone kaufen.
Weitere Informationen unter www.vbl.ch/oev-ticket

26 Lucerne In Your Pocket

lucerne.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing
Lucerne holds a whole hand of trump cards, the truly
stunning natural setting, the intact historical old town, an
impressive number of absorbing museums and the aura of
nearly two hundred years as a world-renowned destination.
You'll nd all the classics and our favourites in the listings.
Admission to many places is free, if it does cost we indicate the
full price followed by reduced price, usually the children's fee,
e.g. 10/5Sfr. Note that museums are usually closed on Mondays.

MAIN SIGHTS
Lucerne's main sights are heavily marketed and known around
the world - but still worth the visit. They range from the mediaeval
bridges and fortications, the 19th-century attractions around
the Lion Monument to the 21st-century landmark of the KKL.
You'll nd museums in our museum section.
JESUITENKIRCHE
Beautifully located right on the river Reuss, the Jesuitenkirche
or Jesuit church St. Franz Xaver is one of the most magnicent
Baroque churches in Switzerland. While it is very pleasing
from the exterior, with the river promenade it frames, the
rich, unscathed interior in pinks and white is what can
really take your breath away. Completed in 1677, the two
towers were added in 1893.QB-4, Bahnhofstrasse 11a,
uFranziskanerplatz,
www.jesuitenkirche-luzern.ch.
Open 06:30 - 18:30, Mon & Thu 09:30 - 18:30.
KAPELLBRCKE (CHAPEL BRIDGE)
& WASSERTURM
Lucernes most famous landmark is certainly the Chapel Bridge,
which stretches across the entrance to the river Reuss (over
nearly 203 metres) in a peculiar diagonal direction. Built in
1365 as part of Lucernes fortications, it is the oldest covered
wooden bridge still standing in Europe. Part of its fame is due

MUSEUMS FOR LESS


LUCERNE MUSEUM CARD / LION PASS
The Lucerne museum card is a great deal, giving
you free access to 9 museums in Lucerne (and 2 in
neighbouring Kriens) on two consecutive days for just
36Sfr. Youre already saving money if you just go to
three museums, and if one is the transport museum,
youre almost saving from the start. Another option
ist the Lion Pass (22/12Sfr), a combined ticket to the
Gletschergarten and Bourbaki Panorama. For the
classic one-day 19th-century tour - Lion Monument
(free), Gletschergarten, Alpineum and Bourbaki
Panorama - the Lion Pass is your best option (You
will have to pay an additional 5Sfr for the Alpineum).
QC-4, Tourist information, Zentralstrasse 5,
uBahnhof, www.lucerne.com. Museum card: 36Sfr.
Available only at the tourist oce at the main train
station. No reduction for children, so not necessary
worthwhile for kids.Lion pass: 22/12Sfr, available at
Gletschergarten and Bourbaki Panorama.
facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

The Jesuit church St. Franz Xaver with its two onion domes.
Gabriel Ammon/Luzern Tourismus

to the originally more than 150 triangular paintings positioned


inside the bridge in the gabels. The paintings date from the
17th century and show scenes from Lucernes and Switzerlands
history, and they can be seen as a mass media of the time, used
to advocate allegiance to Catholicism during the CounterReformation. In 1993 a re destroyed a large part of the bridge
(towards the centre) including 78 of the paintings. When you
walk across the bridge you will see burned, blackened paintings
on either end which mark the point where the restored parts
begin. The Chapel Bridge is really only complete with the
octagonal Wasserturm, literally the water tower, which stands
in the water next to it. Built before the bridge (i.e. before 1365),
the Wasserturm was part of Lucernes military fortications
and was also used as a dungeon. It is seldom accessible to the
public.QB-4, uBahnhof.

Experience Lucerne
A B OA R D TH E PA N O R A M A-YACHT SA PH I R

www.Iakelucerne.ch

July - September 2015

27

Sightseeing
KKL LUCERNE
(KULTUR- UND KONGRESSZENTRUM LUZERN)
The striking KKL with its huge overhanging roof and its
position right on the lake rivals even the Chapel Bridge
as Lucernes major landmark. The concert and conference
centre was completed in the year 2000, built to plans
of Parisian architect Jean Nouvel. Its centrepiece is the
concert hall with nearly 2000 seats which is used mostly for
classical concerts. It has extraordinary acoustics thanks to
acoustics engineer Russell Johnson.QC-4, Europaplatz 1,
uBahnhof, www.kkl-luzern.ch. Guided tours on some
weekends (Sat and/or Sun) 11:00, reservations +41 41
226 79 50, 15/9Sfr.

LAKE LUCERNE

PD

Lake Lucerne is one of the things that make Lucerne


so exceptional. A walk along the shores is part of life in
Lucerne, and the promenade along Schweizerhofquai
and Nationalquai with the long double row of chestnut
trees is the classical choice. But you can also go south
from the KKL, towards the large lake-side park and
bathing spot Ufschtti (15 min walk) or even further to
the Richard Wagner Museum.
The lake also gives you access to a vast area lled to the
brim with Alpine beauties. On a nice sunny day nothing
can beat a cruise on the lake, whether you stay close to
Lucerne or steam south towards the Alps. Due to the
labyrinthine shape of the lake, new breathtaking vistas
open up again and again.
The long cruise down to Flelen e.g. will take you to
the Rtli and past the Tellsplatte, both involved in
Switzerlands founding myths. In German the lake is
called Vierwaldstttersee, literally the lake of the four
forest cantons, which refers to Uri, Schwyz, Unterwalden
and Lucerne. Barring Lucerne, these cantons are
considered to be the birthplace of Switzerland and the
William Tell saga plays in these mountain areas.
LAKE LUCERNE CRUISES
The Lake Lucerne navigation company operates a eet
of over 20 passenger ships on the lake, from the paddle
steamer Uri launched in 1901 to the sleek high-tech
cruiser Saphir which dates from 2012. You can catch
a ship for the 10-minute hop across to the Transport
Museum, or spend up to 5.5h on a roundtrip cruise to
Flelen and back. Boats leave regularly from the piers
around the KKL or from the piers on Schweizerhofquai,
even in winter. Snacks and drinks are available from
the bar on almost all connections (except the very
earliest), and on many the restaurant oers full meals.
QC-4, Bahnhofquai, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 367 67
67, www.lakelucerne.ch. Opening hours of the ticket
oce across from the railway station: 08:40 - 17:00.
Adult fares, one-way, second-class are between 6Sfr
and 46Sfr, depending on distance. Daypass 72/36Sfr.
28 Lucerne In Your Pocket

A detail of the 114-metre-long Bourbaki panorama painting.

PD

LWENDENKMAL (LION MONUMENT)


While it is famous today, the Lion Monument enjoyed great
fame in the 19th century and harks back to a very dierent
era. The stone sculpture dates from 1821 and was created
by Lukas Ahorn to a design by Berthel Thowaldsen. It shows
a dying lion, in an allegory for over eight hundred Swiss
mercenaries who died in service in 1792. They belonged to
the Swiss regiment which served French king Louis XVI, and
were defending the Tuileries in Paris where the French royal
family were living during the French revolution against
revolutionaries. The royal family had long since ed, so
the mercenaries were defending an empty palace.QC-1,
Denkmalstrasse 4, uLwenplatz. Admission free.

visit the
most famous
sight in
switzerland
The enormous circular painting Bourbaki Panorama

bourba
bou
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b
aki
kip
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lucerne.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing
MUSEGGMAUER (MUSEGG WALL)
The Musegg wall with its nine towers is part of the
ramparts built in the 14th century to protect the town of
Lucerne - as is the Chapel Bridge. The wall is astoundingly
well preserved. The wall and four towers are open to
the public in summer.QA-3 to C-2, uBrggligasse,
www.museggmauer.ch. Accessible 08:00 - 19:00, April
to October. Admission free.

MUSEUMS
BOURBAKI PANORAMA
The Bourbaki Panorama is basically one huge painting.
The circular painting which is 114 metres around and 10
metres high was painted in 1881 by Edouard Castres. It
depicts a major military event of 1871 - 87,000 defeated
French soldiers crossed the border into Switzerland, eeing
the Prussians. In Switzerland the soldiers were disarmed
and looked after by the government and the public, giving
rise to a humanitarian tradition. Paintings like this one were
hugely popular at the time, before the advent of cinema,
let alone 3D cinema and the like! In the original panorama
building from 1889 you can view this 19th-century
attraction, as well as learn more about the event behind
it thanks to the museums very state-of-the-art exhibition
and lm.QC-2, Lwenplatz 11, uLwenplatz, tel. +41
41 412 30 30, www.bourbakipanorama.ch. Open 09:00 18:00. Admission 12/7Sfr, 1 adult and kids 24Sfr, 2 adults
and kids 35Sfr.

SIGHTSEEING TOURS
GUIDED PILATUS TOUR
This guided tour takes you up to Mount Pilatus and back
to Lucerne by ship, a 5 1/2 h round trip. A short bus ride
takes you to the bottom of the cable car up to the peak,
on top you have time for lunch and then its back down
the mountain, this time with the cogwheel railway to
Alpnachstad from where a one-hour boat ride gets you
back to Lucerne. The multi-lingual guides give some
commentary.QC-4, Zentralstrasse 5, uBahnhof, tel.
+41 44 710 50 50, www.switzerland-tours.ch. Daily
departure at 12:30. 119/59.50Sfr. Book in advance
by phone or internet. Departure at the Tourist
Information at Lucerne train station.
SAPHIR BOAT TOUR
This one-hour lake tour takes you round the arm of the lake
on which Lucerne is located, and thanks to audio guides
you get commentary on the landscapes and historic sites
youre gliding past - in any one of 11 languages. The vessel
you travel on is the Saphir, a brand new ship whose design
is closely modelled on large, luxurious motor yachts. You
can get on at Schweizerhof quay or at Bahnhofquai.QC-4,
uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 367 67 67, www.lakelucerne.ch.
Six tours daily between 10:25 and 17:55, May 30 - Sep
13, 2015. In May and from Sept 14 until Oct 18 three
daily tours. 25/12.50Sfr, SBB half-fare card is valid,
children under 6 free.

EXCURSIONS

Bookings +41 (0)44 710 50 50


facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

www.switzerland-tours.ch
July - September 2015

29

Sightseeing
FORUM SCHWEIZER GESCHICHTE SCHWYZ
(FORUM OF SWISS HISTORY)
This museums main exhibition focuses on the early
history of the Swiss confederation, using very up-to-date
exhibition techniques.QZeughausstrasse 5, Schwyz, tel.
+41 41 819 60 11, www.nationalmuseum.ch/schwyz.
Open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Mon. 10/8Sfr, children up to
16 free.
NEW
HANS ERNI MUSEUM
In March 2015 one of the most renowned Swiss artists
passed away at the tender age of 106. Hans Erni was a
painter, graphic designer, illustrator and sculptor, who
was born in Lucerne. He went on to design new Swiss
bank notes which were printed but never brought
into circulation, due to the suspicion that Erni was a
communist. As a social and political activist, he fought
for womens surage or nuclear disarmament. His work
covers themes such as sports, technical developments,
peace and mythology. The museum in the grounds
of the transport museum makes the link between art
and technical developments. Over 300 works spanning
seven decades oer a good overview of this tireless
artists creations.QTransport Museum (Verkehrshaus),
Lidostrasse 6a, uVerkehrshaus, tel. +41 41 370 44 44,
www.verkehrshaus.ch/en/museum/hans-erni-museum.
Open: 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 15Sfr.

Mt. Rigi Peninsula


Authentic Switzerland

.
10 0% in clel
Pass
in Sw iss Trav

www.rigi.ch
30 Lucerne In Your Pocket

Lots of art to discover at the Hans Erni museum.

PD

GLETSCHERGARTEN
Gletschergarten means glacier garden, and this Lucerne
institution consists of three elements: a geological site
formed by a glacier, a museum next door and a mirror maze
dating from 1896. This quaint jumble of attractions is very
19th century, making this museum a museum piece in itself.
The geological site is a set of deep funnels and channels
worn into the bedrock by the glacier that once covered this
area. The museum is housed in a building with Baroque,
Renaissance and Biedermeier rooms. The larger part of
the exhibition consists of relief models of Switzerland and
exhibits about glaciers, climate change and avalanches.
Unfortunately, these are not too inspiring. The mirror maze
nally is pure and simple 19th century fair-ground fun. But
it still works!QC-1, Denkmalstrasse 4, uLwenplatz, tel.
+41 41 410 43 40, www.gletschergarten.ch. Open daily
09:00 - 18:00. Admission 15/8Sfr.
SAMMLUNG ROSENGART
(ROSENGART COLLECTION)
This art collection concentrates on two gureheads of
classical modernism: exuberant Pablo Picasso (1881 - 1973)
and quiet, intense Paul Klee (1879 - 1940), the latter of
Swiss origins. A gem among Lucernes museums.QC-4,
Pilatusstrasse 10, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 220 16 60,
www.rosengart.ch. Open daily 10:00 - 18:00. Admission
18/10Sfr.
VERKEHRSHAUS
(SWISS MUSEUM OF TRANSPORT)
The Swiss Museum of Transport is Switzerlands most
popular museum. It tells the story of the development of
transport and mobility by road, rail and water as well as in
the air and outer space - and how it eects everyday life.
Look at more than 3,000 objects like planes, steam engines
and cars in the huge halls. Or be a TV presenter for a couple
of minutes in the communication section and take home a
recording of your performance. This museum is very much
hands-on and in every section there are special activities
for children - a good choice for the family not just on a
rainy day!QLidostrasse 5, uVerkehrshaus/Lido, tel.
+41 41 370 44 44, www.verkehrshaus.ch. Open daily
10:00 - 18:00. Admission 30/15Sfr, the planetarium and
the chocolate adventure cost extra (12/7Sfr) or can be
booked separately (15/9Sfr).
lucerne.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing
MOUNTAINS
You can just admire the mountains round Lucerne from
afar, but you can do much more than that. Many are easily
accessible, and the views up there are something else! We
only list the classics Pilatus and Rigi here but check the day
trip chapter (p. 40) for several other good options, many
just as close by.
MOUNT RIGI
Mount Rigi (from regina, Latin for queen) is famous for
spectacular views of the Alps and the easy access. The
majestic mountain lies between Lake Lucerne, Lake Zug and
Lake Lauerz. The cogwheel railway leaving from Vitznau is
Europes rst mountain railway. Dont forget to bring a jacket
as it can be chilly at 1,800 metres above sea level. At the top
there are several restaurants, around 120 kilometres of hiking
trails and covered picnic and barbecue spots. Hikers have
the option of walking down just part of the way, as the train
has several stops where you can jump back on. You can also
combine with the aerial cable car from Rigi Kaltbad to Weggis,
for instance on a round trip by boat from Lucerne to Vitznau,
with return from Weggis. Accessible all year round. The train
and bus connection to Vitznau takes about 1 hour, by ship
its just as fast.Qfrom Vitznau, Weggis or Arth-Goldau,
www.rigi.ch. From Weggis daily from 08:00 - 16:10 (18:10
in July & Aug). From Vitznau 09:15 - 22:05. Check website
for exact timetables. Return ticket 68/34Sfr.

PILATUS
Except in the very worst of weather youll see Mount
Pilatus imposing peaks from almost anywhere in
Lucerne. At 2132 metres a.s.l. it is the highest and most
rugged of the Lucernes three local mountains, offering
the most Alpine experience. Though the name Pilatus
seems to have other roots, mediaeval legend connected
it to Pontius Pilate (Pilatus in German and Latin), the
Roman official who authorized the crucifixion of Jesus.
The despised bureaucrat was said to be buried in a (no
longer existing) lake on Pilatus; storms raged wherever
he was buried, so eventually his body was moved here,
where the storms would be far away. Climbing the
mountain was banned by law until the 16th century, for
fear this might provoke storms that would harm the town
of Lucerne. The ban has long since fallen, and Pilatus
is one of the most popular peaks to visit. With several
restaurants, a hotel, rock-climbing, a rope park and a
long summer toboggan run there are plenty of options.
You can reach Pilatus by the worlds steepest cog railway
from Alpnachstad or by the all new cable car Dragon
ride from Frkmntegg. Taking the train to Alpnachstad
or bus to Kriens and the gondolas to Frkmntegg, the
whole trip takes around 1h15min.Qfrom Alpnachstad
or Kriens (Schlossweg 1), uLinde-Pilatus, tel. +41 41
329 11 11, www.pilatus.ch. Cable car from Kriens runs
08:30 - 17:00, cogwheel train from Alpnachstad daily
08:10 - 17:10. Return ticket 72/36Sfr.

New Dragon Ride is open!

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July - September 2015

31

Old-town stroll
Bridge (as well as on two other bridges). The depictions of
the life of saints Leodegar and Mauritius could be read like
comics by the mostly illiterate population, and the more
than 200 scenes must have made a huge impact in this
world with so few images.
On the other shore of the Reuss our stroll goes right, along
the river past Lucernes theatre built in 1839. If you look
across the river youll get a good view of the Rathaus, the
town-hall, on the other side. A few steps further along is the
Jesuit church St. Franz Xaver (p. 27), a magnicent
example of Swiss Baroque architecture.
iStock.com/nevereverro

Continuing along the river bank we take the Reussbrcke


across into the old towns narrow alleys again. The second on
the right is Weinmarkt which soon widens out onto a
town square lined by handsome town houses, many of
which have painted faades. One ne example is the
Zunfthaus zur Metzgern on the right (Weinmarkt 3), once the
guild house of the butchers. Exiting Weinmarkt straight
ahead on the right youll nd yourself on Kornmarkt with the
sturdy red-roofed tower of the town-hall or Rathaus,
completed in 1606. The cellars of the Rathaus harbour the
beerhall of the same name if you fancy a break now. Our
stroll now procedes from Kornmarkt away from the river
along Werchlaubengssli, then right and immediately left
into Mariahilfgasse, passing the Jazzkantine. Our next and
nal destination is the Museggmauer, the town wall. At the
end of Mariahilfgasse take a right, and walk along
Museggstrasse until you see the Mariahilf church on your
right. To the left you can now take a footpath up to the
Schirmerturm, a tower in the Musegg wall (p. 29). Climb the
tower (April - October 08:00 - 19:00) and youll get a great view
out to Lucernes hinterland and over the town old and new.

Our old-town stroll starts on Gerbergasse, just next to


the bus stop Schwanenplatz. Look out onto the lake with
the old town behind you: until 1852 you would have been
standing at the waters edge here, as the land in front of you
including where Hotel Schweizerhof (p. 43) stands was
then lled up to create the lake promenade.

old
-S
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32 Lucerne In Your Pocket

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Now we turn around and head for Chapel Bridge (p. 27),
passing by Haus Zurgilgen with its round tower built in
1510 and the 18th century St. Peters Chapel behind it
which gave the Chapel Bridge its name. Built in 1365,
the bridge originally served as part of Lucernes defence
line and, well, to get across the river. Changes in warfare
soon made the defence function obsolete, but then the
bridge was used for defence from another threat:
Protestantism. While nearby places like Zurich had turned
Protestant, Lucernes authorities were strictly Catholic. To
make sure the towns people stuck with the old faith they
commissioned the triangular paintings on the Chapel

tra

Reussbrcke in the old town.

latz
Bahnhofp

Kunstmuseum
KKL

Luzern Bahnhof
lucerne.inyourpocket.com

Shopping
For a town which is - after all - not very big, Lucerne
has a surprisingly wide range of shopping options. If
you're buying watches, Lucerne can match or even top
most larger destinations (see chapter Watches & Jewellery
p.36). But there is also an impressive range of fashion
boutiques, some well stocked with the international
luxury brands, while others focus on lesser known,
carefully chosen Swiss and international designers. Being
Switzerland, chocolates and other ne food products are
well represented too.
The two major shopping areas are in the old town between
Schwanenplatz on the lake and Mhleplatz to the west
(B/C-3), and in the Neustadt (the 'new town') between the
railway station and Hirschengraben street (A/B/C-4).

ACCESSORIES
NEW
ATELIER TREGER
Anna and Markus are two young Swiss entrepreneurs
who specialize in making aesthetic, made-to-measure
pairs of braces. Much to the delight of not just the lindy
hop and swing crowd, but also hipsters, business people,
old and young alike. Alongside the trouser carriers as they
are known as in German, they also create and produce
two fashion collections a year, inspired by 1920s - 1950s
designs. Fabrics are bought from Switzerland, Germany
and Italy and the rest, from start to nish, takes place in
their boutique on Bruchstrasse. A stylish pair of handmade
braces will set you back 65 - 100 Sfr, their creations can
also be found at Globus department store.QBruchstrasse
45, uHirzenhof, tel. +41 41 240 08 36, www.treger.
ch. Open Mon & Tue on appointment, Wed - Fri 10:00 12:00, 13:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun closed.
NEW
NUDA ACCESOIRES
Susanna Ramminger has been designing accessories and
fashion since 1997. All her produce is not only designed
locally but also 100% produced in Switzerland, be it the
many colourful leather bags, skirts, dresses, (striped) longsleeve tops or the fancy earrings. You can visit her in her
atelier which doubles as a shop.QB-5, Habsburgerstrasse
44, uMoosegg, tel. +41 41 410 75 90, www.nuda.ch.
Open only Fri 14:00 - 18:30, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.

OPENING HOURS
Most shops in the centre of Lucerne are open Mon
- Fri 08:30 - 18:30, (closing time by law) late-night
shopping is until 21:00 on Thu and Fri, though not
all shops participate. On Saturdays most shops open
09:00 - 16:00. On Sundays shops are generally
closed, though there are exceptions for bakers, some
jewellers, souvenir shops and others, and everything at
the train station.
facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

A bit of relaxed old-town shopping.

Elge Kenneweg/Luzern Tourismus

BOOKS
STOCKER BOOKS
Apparently the largest book shop in central Switzerland,
Stocker just o Schwanenplatz stocks mainly German books,
but it has a small selection of English language literature,
as well as maps, toys and some stationery supplies.QC-3,
Hertensteinstrasse 44, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41
417 25 25, www.buchhaus.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu &
Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00-16:00, closed Sun.

DEPARTMENT STORES
NEW
COOP CITY
Coop City is a classic department store. You will nd almost
anything from travel accessories to fashion and shoes to
stationery. Not to mention a self-service restaurant on the
top oor.QB-3, Rssligasse 18-20, uSchwanenplatz,
tel. +41 42 417 11 33, www.coop.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30,
Thu & Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun closed.

MARKETS
FISH MARKET
Under the arcades at the end of Unter der Egg,
right on the river Reuss, several stands sell fresh sh.
Among them is Nils Hofer, sherman from Meggen
on the lake, who sells his catch whole and leted,
apart from some imported sh.QB-4, Unter der Egg,
uSchwanenplatz. Tue, Fri, Sat 06:00 - 13:00.
NEW
HELVETIAPLATZ FARMERS MARKET
For early risers, there is a small, well established farmers
market every Saturday morning in the new town. Taste
some delicious local cheeses or homemade salamis, we
particularly like the fennel salami and the goats cheese.
It also oers up owers, fresh breads and homepressed
apple juice and of course a chance to mingle with
locals and ask about the regional produce before you
buy.QB-5, Helvetiaplatz, uBundesplatz. Open Sat
08:00 - 13:00.
July - September 2015

33

Shopping
MARC OPOLO
Well, they specialise in
casual, but its casual with
style, wed say. Youll also
nd the accessories and
shoes of this company with
Swedish roots. The Lucerne
store features all their latest
collections for women - be
it trousers, blouses, jackets or coats and more.QB-3,
Weinmarkt 6, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 410 84 00,
www.marc-o-polo.ch. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Thu 09:30
- 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed.
GLOBUS
Globus is a high-end department store near the train
station: on four levels you can nd everything for beauty,
the latest fashion from brands like Esprit, Marco Polo,
Strellson and Dockers, shoes, watches, jewellery, travel
bags, lingerie and much more. After strolling through
take a break in the pleasant restaurant on the third oor or
get drink at the bar in the delicatessen department in the
basement.QC-4, Pilatusstrasse 4, uBahnhof, tel. +41
58 578 55 55, www.globus.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu &
Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed.

FASHION
COMME CA
This luxury boutique on the quayside stocks internationally
renowned brands such as Valentino, Moschino, See by
Chlo, Kristensen du Nord, Hache, accessories by Rada,
Gem Kingdom and hosiery by Fogal to mention just a few.
The boutique has the feeling of an apartment featuring
a winding staircase and upholstered furnishings, with a
separate room to try on your items of interest. Across the
road, the lakeside promenade in front of the various vestar hotels provides the perfect catwalk to model ones new
purchases.QC-3, Schweizerhofquai 4, uSchwanenplatz,
tel. +41 41 410 81 01, www.comme-ca.ch.
Open 09:30 - 18.30, Mon 13:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00,
closed Sun.

GUESS
Guess has its own agship store in Lucerne. Close to
Lwenplatz, they display the Guess and Guess by Marciano
collections, for both men and women: jeans, garments,
shoes, accessories like sunglasses, watches, jewellery, lingerie
and perfume - the full range of Guess goods is on show and
on sale.QC-2, Hertensteinstrasse 6, uLwenplatz, tel.
+41 41 410 31 49, www.guess.com. Open 09:00 - 18:30,
Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
NEW
WE
This international brand designs rather casual fashion mainly
for men, but they do some collections for women and kids
too. In their Lucerne store they sell fashion for both sexes
and boys. They have t-shirts, jeans, trousers, shorts, shirts and
underwear but also more elegant attire like suits and blazers
or coats.QB-3, Weggisgasse 40, uSchwanenplatz, tel.
+41 41 410 24 32, www.wefashion.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30,
Thu & Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed.

FOOD SPECIALITIES
CONFISERIE BACHMANN - CHOCOLATE-LAND
Local confectioner N1 Bachmann has a wide range of
chocolates, confectionery and cakes like the traditional
Lucerne gingerbread cake. Its also a bakery, with fresh bread
and sandwiches and soups to go. This shop has an extra
wide selection of chocolates - more than 50 dierent kinds
of pralines and chocolates! Many other stores throughout
town.QC-3, Schwanenplatz 7, uSchwanenplatz, tel.
+41 41 410 91 44, www.confiserie.ch. Open 07:00 - 19:00,
Thu 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 17:30, Sun 09:30 - 18:00.

They stock a chocolate or two: Bachmann Conserie.

PD

MAX CHOCOLATIER
This small, sleek boutique in contemporary design just next
to Hotel Schweizerhof sells chocolates, pralines and small
cakes of outstanding quality. The ptissiers actually make
the treats on site and by hand, whether its bars of dark
Madagascan chocolate with pumpkin seeds, pineapple
and basil ice cream (only summer) or their own chocolate
spread.QC-3, Schweizerhofquai 2, uSchwanenplatz,
tel. +41 41 418 70 90, maxchocolatier.com. Open 10:00
- 18:30, Mon 13:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed
except in July & August open 11:00 - 17:00.
34 Lucerne In Your Pocket

lucerne.inyourpocket.com

Shopping
OUTDOOR CLOTHING
& SPORTS
TRANSA - TRAVEL AND OUTDOOR
Transa is the place for quality outdoor clothing and
equipment. The team of sta are experienced specialists
and can advise you on their product range and what
would best t your requirements. It might burn a hole in
your wallet, but you can probably use what you buy here
for the next ten or more years. They have a large selection
of footwear and merino wool thermal clothing, plus
rucksacks and hiking, biking and climbing hardware.QA-4,
Pstergasse 23, uKasernenplatz, www.transa.ch. Open
10:00 - 18.30, Mon 12:00 - 18:30, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun.

CASAGRANDE GIFT SHOP


Casagrande, conveniently
located on Schwanenplatz between the lake
and the old town, stocks a
large range of Swiss souvenirs including cuckoo
clocks, Swiss army knives
(free engraving with purchase), many watches, clothing, chocolate and much more over three oors. They
also oer longer opening hours compared to most
shops in the city and shipping options.QC-3, Grendel 6, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 418 60 60,
www.casagrande.ch. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00
- 19:30.

SCHMOCKER SOUVENIRS
Whether Swiss Army knives, cow bells, key rings,
shirts, postcards, cuckoo clocks or almost any other
imagineable souvenir - you ll nd it at Schmockers
shop. They also stock Swiss handicraft like dolls, music
boxes and nest wood carvings and watches.QD-2, St.Leodegar-Str. 2, uLuzernerhof, tel. +41 41 410 32
50, www.schmocker-souvenirs.ch. Open daily (incl.
Sundays) 10:00 - 12:00, 13:30 - 18:00.

Not only in red and white! Handcrafted souvenirs at Schweizer


PD
Heimatwerk.

SHOPPING CENTRES
EMMEN CENTER
This is central Switzerlands largest shopping centre.
Its located in Emmenbrcke, 15 minutes bus ride from
Lucerne. Here youll nd more than 80 shops on 30000m2
including the fashion stores PKZ, Schild and C&A, jeweller
Kurz and the department store Manor just to name a few.
QStauacherstrasse 1, Emmenbrcke, uEmmen
Center, tel. +41 41 260 61 12, www.emmencenter.ch.
Open 09:00 - 18:30, Wed & Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00
- 16:00, Sun closed.

SCHWEIZER HEIMATWERK
Swiss handcrafted souvenirs of high quality: fashion
accessories, toys, bells, books and fondue sets all with lots
of Swiss crosses, red and white colours, cows and edelweiss.
QB-3, Kapellgasse 3, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 266
07 36, www.heimatwerk.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu
09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed.
SWISS CORNER FRESCO
Souvenirs, Souvenirs! Here they have hats, cups, caps - all
with a Swiss cross on them of course. As well as a whole
wall covered with wooden cuckoo clocks. And yes, they
do have pocket knives too.QC-2, Lwenstrasse 13,
uLwenplatz, tel. +41 41 410 30 06.

SOUVENIRS
HARRYS SOUVENIR SHOP
This shop on lively Pstergasse has the full souvenir range Swiss pocket knives, jumpers and t-shirts with Switzerland
prints, postcards and trinkets, some watches as well as a
whole wall of Swiss and German cuckoo clocks.QA-4,
Pstergasse 6, uFranziskanerplatz, tel. +41 41 240 88
88, www.harryslucerne.ch.
facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

July - September 2015

35

Watches & Jewellery


Lucerne is one of the major marketplaces for
Swiss watches, with dozens of brands on offer. Use
our watchfinder pages (overleaf ) to locate the one
you're after or just browse through the more than
two dozen boutiques, most of them located around
Schwanenplatz.

WATCHES & JEWELLERY


BUCHERER
Established in 1888 in Lucerne, Bucherer is a leading
jewellery and Swiss watch boutique. They oer top
brands like Rolex, IWC, Longines and Rado as well as their
own brand Carl F. Bucherer. This huge store also stocks
Victorinox pocket knives and Swarovski crystals.QC-3,
Schwanenplatz 5, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 369 77
00, www.bucherer.com. Open 08:30 - 19:30, Sun 09:00
- 19:00.
CHRIST WATCHES & JEWELRY
With more than 80 shops, CHRIST is the biggest jeweller
in Switzerland. Find top watch brands like Rado, Tag
Heuer, Certina, Frederique Constant, Tissot or their very
own CHRIST Swiss Made as well as many fashion jewels.
Get a 10% discount with the voucher in this guide!QB-3,
Kramgasse 8, uFranziskanerplatz, tel. +41 41 410 18
80, www.christ-swiss.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed.

LIYP

EMBASSY
In their location just o the Chapel Bridge, Embassy stock
some of the most luxurious Swiss and foreign watch
brands. You will nd Piaget, Bulgari, Lange & Shne or
IWC besides many others, as well as a ne selection of
jewellery by jewellers like Pomellato. Sister boutique at
Grendelstrasse 2, see which brands are on oer there on p.
38.QC-3, Kapellplatz 12, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41
418 50 80, www.embassy.ch. Open 09:00 - 12:30, 13:30
- 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, closed Sun.
HESS UHREN
These mechanic watches are manufactured in Luzern!
Walter Hess and his wife Judith have spent many years
developing the design of their very own watches. In 2014
they opened a workshop and shop where they mount
and sell the two dierent models they produce so far: the
TWO.1 and the TWO.2. Go and have a peek!QStiftstrasse
4, uLuzernerhof, tel. +41 41 322 44 88,
www.hessuhren.ch. Open 14:00 - 18:30, Sat 12:00 16:00 and by appointment, closed Mon & Sun.

5%
%

DISCOUNT*
OUNT*

&
FREE jewelry
presentt with any
chase
purchase

TAX FREE SHOPPING

Swiss Made Since 1924

LUCERNE Weinmarkt 8 www.sokolov.ch


(except sales). Valid in all Sokolov Stores.

36 Lucerne In Your Pocket

Schwanenplatz, where all watch hunting starts in Lucerne.

As a foreign resident you are


entitled to a refund when making
purchases for more than 300Sfr
(including VAT), provided the
goods leave the country within
30 days. You will get back the VAT,
which in Switzerland is only 8% minus a handling fee. Its as easy
as this: watch out for the Global Blue - Tax Free sign.
When paying, ask for a tax refund form. When leaving
Switzerland, present your purchases, receipts and
passport to Swiss customs ocials. They will stamp
your tax refund form. To claim an immediate refund,
present your stamped tax refund form at a Global
Blue refund point (e.g. at Zurich Airport or all around
Europe). For more infos see www.global-blue.com.
lucerne.inyourpocket.com

Watches & Jewellery


KURZ JEWELLERY & WATCHES
Wide selection of mainly Swiss watches like Omega, Zenith,
Maurice Lacroix, Tissot, Rado and many more, as well as a
large selection of jewellery e.g. by H. Stern and Chopard.
QB-3, Weggisgasse 25, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41
419 40 20, www.kurzschmuckuhren.ch. Open 09:00 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sun.
SOKOLOV JEWELRY
The Russian jewelry manufacturer Sokolov makes jewelry
collections with style. They combine natural forms with
colourful motives, be it rings, earrings, or necklaces. Many
of the pieces include precious or semiprecious stones like
sapphire or topaz. Sokolov sells over 5000 dierent articles,
from 14 to 18 carat gold, or silver combined with precious
stones or enamels. If you like modern jewelry design,
you denitely should have a peek here. They also sell
watches, for example the brands Tissot and Mido.QB-3,
Weinmarkt 8, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41 500 30 11,
www.sokolov.ch. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Mon 13:30 - 18:30,
Thu 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00, Sun closed.
NEW
SPLENDID
This is the latest addition among the many watch boutiques
on Schwanenplatz. In this all new boutique Splendid sells ne
watches by brands like Jowissa, De Grisgono, Eterna and more.
QC-3, Schwanenplatz 6a, uSchwanenplatz, tel. + 41 41
266 00 89, www.mwgag.com. Open daily 09:00 - 19:00.

HOUSE OF CHRONOSWISS
The brand Chronoswiss produce their mechanical watches right in the city centre of
Lucerne. The best thing about
it: their House of Chronsowiss
is open to visitors. You can
actually watch the watchmakers through glass panes as
they produce the timepieces. Moreover, there is a whole
exhibition showing and explaining the watchmaking
process on large screens. In the dial workshop you can see
how they procude the dials, using historic machines and
old handicraft techniques. Another part of the exhibiton
shows the history of the company. And of course there is a
boutique where you can see the nished famed watches,
be it the sporty Timemaster collection or the classic Sirius
ones. And yes, you can buy a watch here too!QC-2, Lwenstrasse 16b, uLwenplatz, tel. +41 41 552 21 80,
www.chronoswiss.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sun closed.
SWISS LION
In their elegant boutique on Lwenplatz, Swiss Lion
stock a wide range of top watch brands such as Maurice
Lacroix, Audemars Piguet or Longines. For a heady buying
experience, they have a boutique on the mount Titlis too.
QC-2, Lwenplatz 11, uLwenplatz, tel. +41 41 410
61 81, www.swisslion.ch. Open 08:30 - 19:30, Sat 08:30 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00.

ON THE ENTIRE SELEC TION OF WATCHES


A ND JE W EL RY. VA L ID UNTIL
O C TOBER 31, 2 015, IN A L L CHRIS T SHOPS.
IN LU CERNE AT K R A M GA SSE 8.

www.christ-swiss.ch

Does not apply to special


orders, services, repairs or gift
certicates. Cannot be com bined with any other offers.

facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

Say it with

0 6 3 0 0 1

5 2 7 7 8 3

July - September 2015

37

A. Lange & Shne


Alpina
Audemars Piguet
Balmain
Baume & Mercier
Blancpain
Breguet
Breitling
Cartier
Certina
Charriol
Chopard
Chronoswiss
Corum
Ebel
Edox
Eterna
Frederique Constant
Girard Perregaux
Hamilton
Herms
Hublot
IWC Schahausen
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaquet Droz
Longines
Louis Erard
Maurice Lacroix
Mido
Mondaine
Movado
Omega
Oris
Panerai
Patek Philippe
Piaget
Rado
Raymond Weil
Roamer
Rolex
Swatch
Swiss Military Hanowa
Swiss Partime
TAG Heuer
Tissot
Vacheron Constantin
Victorinox Swiss Army
Zenith

Juwelia, Denkmalstrasse 1 - 3

Kurz, Weggisgasse 25

Moser Uhren & Bijouterie AG,


Hertensteinstrasse 17

Omega Boutique, Grendelstrasse 5

Panerai Boutique, Kapellplatz 9

Rado Boutique, Grendel 6

Herms, Schweizerhofquai 4

Chronoswiss, Lwenstrasse 16b

Harry's Watch Center, Pstergasse 10

CHRIST Uhren & Schmuck, Kramgasse 8

Gbelin, Schweizerhofquai 1

Casagrande, Grendel 6

Embassy, Grendelstrasse 2

Bucherer, Schwanenplatz 5

Watches

10

11

12

13

14

38 Lucerne In Your Pocket

lucerne.inyourpocket.com

facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

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Watches

POWERED BY
SOLAR ENERGY

T I S S OT T- TO U C H
E X P E RT S O L A R

T- TO U C H . C O M

Markuskirche

Alpenstrasse

Schwanenplatz

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July - September 2015

39

Day trips
There is a whole region around Lucerne waiting to be
explored! Whether it's mountain peaks, historic trains or
wildlife that makes your heart beat faster - you'll nd it all
and more in our listings. Some destinations can be seen in
half a day, but for most you'll need a full day.

MOUNTAIN PEAKS

CULTURE & HERITAGE

Brienzer Rothorn

For the Lucerne classics Mount Rigi and Mount


Pilatus see p. 31.
BRIENZER ROTHORN BY STEAM TRAIN AND CABLE CAR
The Brienzer Rothorn (2351 meters asl) oers
breathtaking views of the Alps. And it features one of the
more remarkable ways to go up or down a mountain a steam-driven rack and pinion train that is still much
the same as in 1891, when this railroad was built. The
Brienzer Rothorn is accessible from two sides actually so you can make it a roundtrip from Lucerne. E.g. go up
from Srenberg by cable car and use the steam train for
the descent to Brienz. In the steam train youll be able to
take in breathtaking views of the Lakes Brienz and Thun
and the Bernese Alps on the slow ride down. At the top
of the Rothorn there is a restaurant and many hiking
possibilities - and quite a view!Qtel. +41 33 952 22 22,
www.brienz-rothorn-bahn.ch, www.soerenberg.ch.
Tickets for a round trip with return journey from Brienz
across Brnig to Lucerne are avaible at the Tourist
Information Lucerne.
ENGELBERG - TITLIS ROTAIR
From the village of Engelberg a rotating gondola takes
you up to Titlis to more than 3,000 metres a.s.l. There
you have spectacular views of the glacier and the
dozens of mountains which totally surround you here.
There are many ambitious hiking options as well as
leisurely walks around the little lake Trbsee. Regular
trains connect Lucerne to Engelberg in just under an
hour.QPoststrasse 3, Engelberg, tel. +41 41 639 50
50, www.titlis.ch. Return ticket 89/44.50Sfr.
STANSERHORN
The Stanserhorn is an easily accessible peak with
spectacular views of central Switzerlands mountains
and lakes. You can ride to the top on the worlds rst
open upper deck on a cablecar. The deck has room for
up to 30 people to stand and enjoy the ride under the
open sky. Getting to Stans from Lucerne by train takes
around 20 minutes.QStansstaderstrasse 19, Stans,
tel. +41 41 618 80 40, www.stanserhorn.ch. Runs
April 11 - Nov 15, 2015 daily 08:15 - 16:30, Fri & Sat
until 22:00. Return ticket from Stans 74/37Sfr.
40 Lucerne In Your Pocket

FORUM SCHWEIZER GESCHICHTE SCHWYZ


(FORUM OF SWISS HISTORY)
Forum Schwyz is a historical museum housed in a former
granary in the little town of Schwyz whose historical centre
is worth a visit in itself. The museums main exhibition
focuses on the early history of the Swiss confederation,
using very up-to-date exhibition techniques. Forum
Schwyz also hosts temporary exhibitions on historical and
cultural topics. You can get to Schwyz by train in under
an hour, then take a bus to Schwyz, Post from where its a
few minutes walk. If you want to make a day of it, consider
going by ship: its nearly 2h to Brunnen and from there 5
min by train to Schwyz. Audio guides in English, French
and Italian.QZeughausstrasse 5, Schwyz, tel. +41 41 819
60 11, www.nationalmuseum.ch/schwyz. Open 10:00 17:00, closed Mon. 10/8Sfr, children up to 16 free.

Say hello! One of the more curious inhabitants at Tierpark Goldau.


PD

TIERPARK GOLDAU (WILDLIFE PARK)


Bears, deers, lynx, wolves and vultures are just some of
the more impressive animals you can see at this outdoor
wildlife park. The 34 hectares of woodlands are strewn with
huge rocks from the 1806 landslide which destroyed three
villages, making it a spectacular though peaceful place. The
animals are in generous enclosures, but some like deers
can be fed and even touched. When you wander through
the park you might meet rangers tending to or feeding
animals, and on weekends and Wednesday afternoon
there are discovery stations for children, with things to do
and learn. There are several barbecue spots with grills and
tables, as well as a snack bar. Part of the park is accessible
for wheel chairs, though youll need help every now and
again! Dogs are not allowed.QParkstrasse 40, Goldau, tel.
+41 41 859 06 06, www.tierpark.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:00,
Sat & Sun 09:00 - 19:00. 20/10Sfr, family tickets 55Sfr.
lucerne.inyourpocket.com

Day trips

The dwarftrail has a lot going for it, besides dwarfs.

PD

OUTDOOR DESTINATIONS
MEIRINGEN - HASLIBERG MUGGESTUTZ DWARFTRAIL
Muggestutz ist the oldest of the Hasli dwarfs. He and his
friends live in Meiringen-Hasliberg, a mountain resort not
too far form Lucerne. In summer your kids (and you of
course!) can follow the adventures of Muggestutz on the
dwarf trails in the great outdoors. Actually your kids can
experience some adventures of their own, for example
when they search for a treasure in a cave or y like an
eagle on the swing. The trails start after a fun ride up the
mountain with the cable car, one at Mgisalp and one at
Kserstatt. Both descend a few hundred metres down the
mountain, from where you can take the cablecar to get
down to the village. Hiking time is 90 minutes to two hours,
but allow some more time for adventures! Hiking shoes
and carrying some food for a picnic recommended. From
Lucerne, a train (to Brnig) and a bus get you to MeiringenHasliberg in 75 minutes. Besides dwarfs theres more fun
for you and your family waiting up there like a swimming
lake, scooter downhill biking and more.Qtel. +41 33 550
50 50, www.muggestutz.ch. The trails are usually open
until the end of October, check conditions before you
go. Dwarftickets from Hasliberg 30/20/15Sfr.

Switzerland in
the Making.
Tue Sun, 10 17 h
www.forumschwyz.ch

PANORAMIC TRAIN
GOLDEN PASS - PANORAMIC TRAIN
The Golden Pass is a panoramic train line connecting
Lucerne with the city of Montreux, on Lake Geneva. The
route rst takes you from Lucerne over the Brnig pass
to Interlaken (Luzern - Interlaken Express) and then right
through the heart of the Bernese Alps via Zweisimmen
and Gstaad to Lake Geneva (Golden Pass Panoramic).
In nice weather this trip is absolutely stunning, taking
you through valleys and past lakes and mountains
of extraordinary beauty. The trains use panorama
wagons with huge windows.Qtel. +41 21 989 81 90,
www.goldenpassline.ch. Trains leave Lucerne every
second hour, the rst one at 07:05. Book your seats
in advance on their website, by phone or at the SBB
counters at the station.
facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

July - September 2015

41

Lucerne for kids


When it comes to holidays, children's priorities are a
bit dierent from those of their elders. Luckily, Lucerne has
plenty to oer for the younger generations, from outdoor
activities to interactive museums.

MOUNTAINS FOR KIDS


DWARF TRAIL MUGGESTUTZ (HASLIBERG)
& MOUNT PILATUS
The mountains surrounding Lucerne have some great
options for children. One great getaway for example are
the Muggestutz dwarf trails in the mountain resort
Meiringen - Hasliberg. There you and your kids can
follow the adventures of Muggestutz and his friends on
some easy hikes surrounded by great mountain views.
Read all about Muggestutz and how to get there on p.
41. On the other hand Lucernes local mountain Pilatus
oers plenty for younger folk to get active and close to
nature. From Kriens take the small gondolas to Krienseregg
(rst station). Here youll nd PILU-Land playground, the
dragon moor round walk (1.5 - 3h) and plenty of public
barbecue and picnic spots. Older kids may prefer to go up
one more station on the gondola, where they can balance,
climb and swing between the trees at a large rope park.

See p. 31 for more info on Pilatus and how to get there.


Qwww.muggestutz.ch, www.pilatus.ch,. Hasliberg:
Dwarftickets 30/20/15Sfr. PIlatus: Return gondola to
Krienseregg 20/10Sfr. PILU-Land playground, dragon
moor round walkfree admission. Return gondola to
Frkmntegg 40/20Sfr. Pilatus rope park 28/21Sfr, 3 hrs.

MUSEUMS
HISTORICAL MUSEUM
(HISTORISCHES MUSEUM)
The historical museum of Lucerne calls itself depot, and
thats what it looks like: a storage house chock-a-block
with historic artefacts from tiny needles to huge pieces
of sculpture. But there is help! Every object has a bar code
which you can scan with the hand-held scanner you get.
It then tells you about the object on the display, in English
or German. But much better than that is the childrens
quiz - lots of kids love following the story the quiz tells,
running up and down the four oors looking for the
objects the scanner points them to. They can choose from
several dierent themes, and there is even a prize!QA-4,
Pstergasse 24, uKasernenplatz, tel. +41 41 228 54 24,
www.historischesmuseum.lu.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00,
closed Mon. 10/5Sfr, children under 6 free.

PARKS
SCHLOSS MEGGENHORN
Meggenhorn Castle - inspired by Chteaux Chambord
in the Loire Valley - and the surrounding gardens are
positioned on a small peninsula just outside of Lucerne.
Its a popular spot for picnicking with a large adventure
playground and farm animals for kids, all free of charge.
Down by the lake there are a couple of swimming
beaches, however these are not ideal for small children
or non-swimmers, as the water gets deep quickly. It
is possible to tour the castle on Sundays. Boats leave
Lucerne main station for Meggenhorn at 13:00, 15:00
and 17:00 or alternatively jump on bus N24 or 25 (15
min). From the bus stop it is a short walk to the entrance
of the park (5 min). The path is paved and push chair /
wheelchair friendly.QMeggenhorn, uLerchenbhl,
www.meggenhorn.ch.

A mediaeval marvel at the historical museum.

TRANSPORT MUSEUM (VERKEHRSHAUS)


The transport museum is one of the great classics for
outings in Switzerland. See p. 30 for more information.
QLidostrasse 5, uVerkehrshaus, tel. +41 41 370 44 44,
www.verkehrshaus.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, 30/15Sfr.

Welcome
to the
Hasliberg!

42 Lucerne In Your Pocket

PD

Muggestutz Dwarf Trails


Hasliberg the most
popular adventure trail for
kids in Switzerland.

lucerne.inyourpocket.com

Hotels
Lucerne has an exceptional concentration of Grand Hotels,
but there is accommodation for most other tastes and
budgets as well. Sometimes rates are lower for the weekend,
so if youre exible check when you book. Generally
bathrooms are private and Wi- is available in the rooms.
Rooms and public areas are usually non-smoking, but some
hotels have smokers rooms and most have a smoking area.
In Switzerland hotels are categorized with stars from one to
ve by two organizations, hotelleriesuisse and GastroSuisse.
The former also gives qualifying hotels the supplement
superior, indicating a higher level of service and quality.
The classications are generally comparable. We list hotels
according to their classication in the following categories:
Cream of the Crop *****, Upmarket ****, Mid-range ***
and Budget (0 to **). We also list several attractive places
around Lucerne in our Out of town category, from **
to *****. Some of these are in nearby towns, others in
unspoiled naturtal locations.

CREAM OF THE CROP


RENAISSANCE
In a central location, the Renaissance occupies a substantial
historic town-house with an ornate faade, behind which youll
nd the polished, contemporary design of an international
hotel. Rooms are light with fabrics in warm, earthy hues and
classic modern design accents. All rooms have at-screen
TVs, tea and coee facilities and Wi-. In house youll nd a
lounge, a gym, the Mexican and steak restaurant Pacico and
a smokers bar.QB-4, Pilatusstrasse 15, uBahnhof, tel. +41
41 226 87 87, fax +41 41 226 87 90, renaissance.lucerne@
renaissancehotels.com, www.renaissance-lucerne.com.
86 rooms. PAUFLKW hhhhh
SCHWEIZERHOF
The elegant Neo-Renaissance Schweizerhof on the lake
promenade has been setting standards in hospitality since
1845. Many rooms and all suites have breathtaking views
of the lake and the surrounding mountains. The spacious,
elegant rooms all have carpet oors and classic furnishings.
The Schweizerhof also oers a wide range of spa options
and the two restaurants Galerie and Pavillon,QC-3,
Schweizerhofquai, uSchwanenplatz, tel. +41 41
410 04 10, fax +41 41 410 29 71, info@schweizerhof
-luzern.ch, www.schweizerhof-luzern.ch. 101 rooms.
PHAFKDwW hhhhh

Grand hotels on the elegant lake shore.

iStock.com/aimintang

15 Gault Millau points.QE-2, Adligenswilerstrasse 22,


uCasino-Palace, tel. +41 41 419 00 00, fax +41 41 419
00 01, info@hotel-montana.ch, www.hotel-montana.ch.
64 rooms. HA6UKW hhhh
CONTINENTAL-PARK
Reading lamps in Italian design and professionally applied
colour schemes combined with carpets make for attractive
rooms at the Continental-Park. Rooms are comprehensively
equipped e.g. with slippers and an umbrella, apart from the
standard at-screen TV, telephone, minibar, safe etc. The inhouse restaurant bellini serves Ticinese, i.e. southern Swiss,
and North-Italian specialities.QC-5, Murbacherstrasse 4,
uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 228 90 50, fax +41 41 228 90 58,
hotel@continental.ch, www.continental.ch. 92 rooms.
PHA6ULKW hhhh
HOTEL MONOPOL LUZERN
Literally just across from the train station, the Monopol was
built in 1899 and has a Parisian-inspired faade with ornate
Rococo elements. The generously-sized rooms are kept
in a classic design. They are all equipped with at-screen
satellite TV, a minibar and a safe. There is an in-house lounge
and bar called Suite on the 7th oor.QC-4, Pilatusstrasse
1, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 226 43 43, fax +41 41 226 43
44, mail@monopolluzern.ch, www.monopolluzern.ch.
73 rooms. HA6LKW hhhh

SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

T Child-friendly

H Conference facilities

UPMARKET

R Internet in room U Facilities for the disabled

ART DECO HOTEL MONTANA


Built in 1910 in the beginning Art Dco style, the Montana
has been carefully and comprehensively renovated, bringing
out the best of the original clean-lined, but luxurious design.
With its hillside location it has wonderful views across the
lake and to the Alps - and its own funicular which takes
you down to the lake shore. The spacious rooms are kept
in a modern style with Art Dco accents. Also outstanding
are the in-house Louis bar and the restaurant Scala with

F Fitness centre

L Parking on site

K Restaurant

u Nearest (trolley)bus station

D Sauna

W Wi- connection

6 Animal friendly

A-1 Map coordinates

facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

C Swimming pool

July - September 2015

43

Hotels
GRAND HOTEL EUROPE
The Europe is one of the handful of grand hotels built in
Lucerne at the turn of the 20th century. The comfortable
rooms combine a recent, rened design in matching
colour tones with occasional antique pieces. The in-house
restaurant Bellevue oers dining in a rich, Belle-Epoque
ambiance. There are spa and sports facilities including
tennis and golf.QF-2, Haldenstrasse 59, uEurope,
tel. +41 41 370 00 11, fax +41 41 370 10 31, info@
europe-luzern.ch, www.europe-luzern.ch. 169 rooms.
PHAULKW hhhh

oors, large windows and many have a balcony with views


of the mountains. They come with a at-screen TV, radio,
telephone and minibar. The Bellevue does not have a
restaurant or bar, but its sister hotel Hermitage across the
road oers upmarket gastronomy.QSeeburgstrasse 79,
uHermitage, tel. +41 41 371 27 27, fax +41 41 371 27
28, info@bellevue-luzern.ch, www.bellevue-luzern.ch.
19 rooms. TA6FLDW hhh

HOTEL ASTORIA
The Astoria is in the centre of the busy new town, but
very close to the river and the old town. The modern
building was designed by Swiss star architects Herzog &
de Meuron.QB-5, Pilatusstrasse 29, uKantonalbank,
tel. +41 41 226 88 00, fax +41 41 210 42 62, info@
astoria-luzern.ch, www.astoria-luzern.ch. 252 rooms.
PZHA6UFLKW hhhh
RADISSON BLU
The modern monolith of the Radisson is situated just
behind the train station, towards the lake. Inside, the
design remains decidedly modern, with strong colours and
organic shapes, though calmer in the rooms themselves.
QD-5, Inseliquai 12, uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 369 90 00,
fax +41 41 369 90 01, info.lucerne@radissonblu.com,
www.radissonblu.com/hotel-lucerne. 189 rooms.
PZHAUFLKDW hhhh
ROMANTIK HOTEL WILDEN MANN
The Wilden Mann is a thoughtfully run hotel with a
rich history of ve hundred years which you can feel at
every step. Though each room is dierent, all are warmly
furnished with carpets, rich fabrics, antique furniture with
classic upholstery and carved wood and intricate parquet
ooring. All rooms have a at-screen TV, telephone, radio,
minibar, hairdryer and a safe.QB-4, Bahnhofstrasse 30,
uBahnhof, tel. +41 41 210 16 66, fax +41 41 210 16
26, mail@wilden-mann.ch, www.wilden-mann.ch. 48
rooms. A6LKW hhhh

MID-RANGE
AMBASSADOR
The Ambassador occupies a modern building close to the
Lion monument. The bright, modern rooms have hardwood
oors, radio, safe and minibar and an unsurprising, cheerful
furnishing style. Though there is no in-house restaurant,
room service includes dishes from the nearby restaurant
Lapin.QC-2, Zrichstrasse 3, uLwenplatz, tel. +41 41
418 81 00, fax +41 41 418 81 90, hotel@ambassador.ch,
www.ambassador.ch. 39 rooms. A6LW hhh
BELLEVUE
The Bellevue is on the green eastern edge of Lucerne a few
100m from the lake shore, but still only 12 minutes by bus
from the centre. The clean, simple rooms have carpeted
44 Lucerne In Your Pocket

The Fritschi house in Lucernes old town.

iStock.com/asmithers

DE LA PAIX
The De la Paix boasts a central location just on the edge
of the old town, in a handsome early 20th-century town
house and a reputation for friendly service. The bright,
modern rooms have hardwood oors, TV, radio, safe and
minibar. The furnishing is straightforward, with warm
colours and wood touches.QC-2, Museggstrasse 2,
uLwenplatz, tel. +41 41 418 80 00, fax +41 41 418 81
90, de-la-paix@ambassador.ch, www.de-la-paix.ch. 39
rooms. HA6LKW hhh
GARNI HOTEL DREI KNIGE
The Drei Knige is in a quiet location about ve minutes
walk from the river Reuss, the old town and many sights. It
occupies an Art Nouveau 7-story town house. The plain, clean
rooms have furnishings with dark wood nishes and carpeted
or parquet oors. They all have a at-screen TV, a radio, a
telephone and a hairdryer. An unusual asset is the huge
model railway in the attic. It is possible to arrange a visit, but
access is not guaranteed. Just ask the friendly receptionists.
QA-4, Bruchstrassse 35, uKlosterstrasse, tel. +41 41
248 04 80, fax +41 41 248 04 90, hotel@drei-koenige.ch,
www.drei-koenige.ch. 60 rooms. AULW hhh
HOTEL ALPINA LUZERN
The Alpina with its very central and yet quiet location
has a reputation as a well-run, friendly tourist hotel. The
clean rooms are furnished in a straightforward style,
with either hardwood oors or carpets. All rooms have
private bathrooms, hairdryers, telephones and at-screen
satellite TV and radio. Some also have a balcony.QC-4,
Frankenstrasse 6, uBahnhof, tel. + 41 41 210 00 77, fax
+ 41 41 210 89 44, info@alpina-luzern.ch, www.alpina
-luzern.ch. 36 rooms. HA6LKW hhh
lucerne.inyourpocket.com

Hotels
IBIS STYLES LUZERN CITY
Just next to the Bourbaki Panorama, this hotel is a few
minutes on foot from the old town and the lake. The
rooms have an attractive, pop-inspired design with
accents in bright colours and dark carpeted or laminate
oors. They are all equipped with a at-screen TV, a radio,
a telephone and a hairdryer.QC-2, Friedenstrasse 8,
uLwenplatz, tel. +41 41 418 48 48, fax +41 41 418 48
18, H8549@accor.com, www.ibisstyles.com. 115 rooms.
PTHA6KW hhh

PILATUS KULM
Built in 1890, this hotel has a rich, delicately restored BelleEpoque interior. Located at over 2100 metres a.s.l. on Mount
Pilatus, you might be forgiven for missing the architecture
in favour of the captivating views. The hotel can only be
reached by cable car or the cogwheel railway.QPilatus, tel.
+41 41 329 12 12, fax +41 41 329 12 13, hotels@pilatus.ch,
www.pilatus.ch. 30 rooms. hhh

LUZERNERHOF
The Luzernerhof boasts a central location, near the lake
and the Lion Monument. The rooms with laminate oors,
colourful touches on the walls and straightforward
furnishing all have a TV, a radio, a telephone and a
hairdryer. Bathrooms have either a shower or bath.
QC-2, Alpenstrasse 3, uLuzernerhof, tel. +41 41
418 47 47, fax +41 41 418 47 49, info@luzernerhof.ch,
www.luzernerhof.ch. 76 rooms. PZALW hhh

SEMINARHOTEL SEMPACHERSEE
This hotel and conference centre is in quiet Nottwil, a
village on the shores of Lake Sempach approx. 20km northwest of Lucerne. The lake oers attractive walks - or windsurng. With the free hotel shuttle and the train you can
reach Lucernes centre in 25 min.QKantonsstrasse 46,
Nottwil, tel. +41 41 939 23 23, fax +41 41 939 23 24,
info@dasseminarhotel.ch, www.dasseminarhotel.ch.
149 rooms. HA6UFLKCW hhh

BUDGET

THORENBERG
The Thorenberg is a small hotel on the green edge of
the Lucerne suburb of Littau. The bright rooms with
large windows have a modern, pleasant design. There
are train (6 min) and bus connections to the centre.
QThorenbergstrasse 5, Luzern-Littau, uLittau station
(train and bus), tel. +41 41 250 52 00, fax +41 41 250 52
73, info@thorenberg.ch, www.thorenberg.ch. Wi- incl.
KW hhh

FALKEN
The privately-run Falken has a extremely central location in
the old town, just around the corner from Schwanenplatz.
Perfect for watch shopping! The rooms are small, but welllit, their style is simple and functional. All have a TV, hairdryer
and a safe.QB-3, Falkengasse 6, uSchwanenplatz, tel.
+41 41 410 37 37, fax +41 41 410 37 38, hotel@hotel
-falken.ch, www.hotel-falken.ch. 15 rooms. A6W
HOTEL GARNI SPATZ
Just 5 minutes by bus from the centre, the Spatz is a friendly,
small alternative to town-centre accommodation. The light,
plain rooms have large windows and well-maintained
bathrooms. Some have a balcony, some a TV. Unfortunately,
the road can be a bit noisy.QObergrundstrasse 103,
uEichhof, tel. +41 41 310 63 84, fax +41 41 310 10 84,
info@spatz-luzern.ch, www.spatz-luzern.ch. AKW
SONNENBERG
Sonnenberg means sun mountain and that describes this
hotel and its bucolic location well. On a hill above Kriens,
the Sonnenberg oers panoramic views of the lake and
mountains. Many of the inviting rooms were refurbished
recently. Public transport gets you to Lucerne in just under
30 min.QZumhofstrasse, Kriens, tel. +41 41 320 66 44,
fax +41 41 320 66 14, info@hotelsonnenberg.ch, www
.hotelsonnenberg.ch. 14 rooms. THA6LKW
TOURIST
Though a simple hotel, the Tourist has a wonderfully central
location, on the edge of the old town, right by the river
Reuss. Some of the elementary but attractive rooms even
have balconies facing the river, though there is a (quiet!) road
inbetween.QA-3, St. Karliquai 12, uBrggligasse, tel. +41
41 410 24 74, fax +41 41 410 84 14, info@touristhotel.ch,
www.touristhotel.ch. 25 rooms. AUW
facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

OUT OF TOWN

VILLA HONEGG
If you want to escape into nature for a luxurious break,
this small boutique ve-star superior hotel is located
on Mount Brgenstock, 20 minutes drive from Lucerne.
E-bikes and golf carts are available free of charge for guests
to explore the surroundings.QHonegg, Ennetbrgen,
tel. +41 41 618 32 00, fax + 41 41 618 32 01, info@
villa-honegg.ch, www.villa-honegg.ch. 18 rooms.
PTHA6UFLBKCW hhhhh

HOSTEL
LUZERN YOUTH HOSTEL
This pleasant youth hostel is in a residential area on
the edge of Lucerne, but a regular bus service gets
you to the centre of town in just 12 minutes. The
hostel has a lounge area, a reading room, a childrens
corner, a billiards table and table tennis outside.
Rooms are in good condition, have parquet ooring
and many look out onto the garden.QSedelstrasse
12, uJugendherberge, tel. +41 41 420 88 00,
fax +41 41 420 56 16, luzern@youthhostel.ch,
www.youthhostel.ch/luzern. 45 rooms, most rooms
have shared bathrooms. Hostelling International
membership required: days membership 6Sfr, 12Sfr
for families, yearly card 33Sfr. THAULK
July - September 2015

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Street Register
Abendrain
D1
Abendweg
D1, D2, E2
Adligenswilerstrasse
D2, E2, F1, F2
Ahornstrasse
B6
Allenwindenstrasse
B2
Allewindenring
A1, B1
Alpenquai
D5, E5, E6, F6
Alpenstrasse
C2, C3
Anna-Neumann-Gasse D6, E6
Auf Musegg
A3, B3
Badergssli
B3
Bahnhofplatz
C4
Bahnhofstrasse
A4, B4, C4
Baselstrasse
A3, A4
Bergstrasse
B2, C1, C2
Bireggstrasse
B6
Birkenstrasse
B6
Bleicherstrasse
B6
Blumenweg
B4
Bramberghhe
A2, B1, B2
Brambergrain
A2
Brambergsteig
A2
Brambergstrasse
A2, B2, C2
Brandgssli
B3, B4
Brggligasse
A3
Bruchmattstrasse
A5
Bruchstrasse
A3/A5, B5, B6
Brnigstrasse
C6, D6
Brunnhalde
F1, F2
Bundesplatz
C5, C6
Bundesstrasse
B6, C6
Buobenmatt
B4
Buobenmattpassage
B4
Brgenstrasse
D5, D6, E6
Burgerstrasse
A4
Carl-Spitteler-Quai
E2, F2
Ccile-Lauber-Gasse
D6, E6
Claridenstrasse
B6
Cysatstrasse
A3, B3
Denkmalstrasse
C1, C2
Diebold-Schilling-Strasse
A2, A3, B2
Dietschibergstrasse
F1
Dornacherstrasse
B5
Dreilindensteig
E1, F1
Dreilindenstrasse
C2, D2, E1, E2, F1
Dufourstrasse
A5
Eisengasse
B3
Englischgrussstrasse
D2
Falkengasse
B3
Felsbergstrasse
D1, D2
Fischmarktgssli
B3
Floraweg
C4
Fluhgrund
B1
Fluhhhe
B1
Fluhmattrain
C2
Fluhmattstrasse
C1, C2
Fluhmattweg
C1, C2
Flumatt-Treppe
C1
Frankenstrasse
B4, B5, C4
Franziskanerplatz
A4
Friedbergstrasse
A1, A2, B1
Friedenstrasse
C2

48 Lucerne In Your Pocket

Friedentalstrasse
A1, B1
Frohburgsteg
C5, D4, D5
Frohburgstrasse
C4, D4
Fruttstrasse
C6
Furrengasse
B3
Grtnerstrasse
E1, E2
Geissmattbrcke
A3
Geissmatthhe
A2
Geissmattstrasse
A1/A3
Gerbergasse
B3, C3
Gesegnetmattstrasse
E2, F2
Gesegnetmatt-Treppe
F2
Gibraltarrain
A4
Gibraltarsteig
A4
Gibraltarstrasse
A4
Gotthardstrasse
C2
Grabenstrasse
B3
Grendel
B3, C3
Grendel-Passage
B3
Grimselweg
C6, D6
Grundeck Passage
B5
Guggistrasse
A6
Guggiweg
A6
Gundoldingenstrasse
F1
Gterstrasse
C5, C6, D5
Gtschstrasse
A3
Habsburgerstrasse
B5, C5
Haldenrain
F2
Haldensteig
D2
Haldenstrasse D2, D3, E2, F2
Hallwilerweg
A4, A5, B5
Hans-Holbein-Gasse
B3
Heimatweg
B6
Hertensteinstrasse B3, C2, C3
Hexenstiege
C1, C2, D1
Himmelrichstrasse
B5, B6
Hinterbramberg
A1, A2
Hirschengraben
A4, B4
Hirschmattstrasse B4, B5, C5
Hitzlisbergstrasse
E1, E2, F1
Hofstrasse
C2, D2
Hochbhlstrasse
A4
Im Zpi
B4
Inseliquai
D4, D5
Jesuitenplatz
B4
Johanna-Hodel-Gasse
E6
Kantisteg
F6
Kapellbrcke
B3, B4, C3
Kapellgasse
B3
Kapuzinerweg
C1, D1, D2
Kasimir-Pfyer-Strasse A4, A5
Kaumannweg
B5, B6
Kaufmannweg
B5
Kellerstrasse
C6
Kesselgasse
A4
Klosterstrasse
A4, A5
Kornmarkt
B3
Kornmarktgasse
B3
Kramgasse
B3, B4
Kreuzmattweg
C1, D1
Krongasse
B4
Landenbergstrasse D5, E5, E6, F6
Landschaustrasse
D1, E1
Landschauweg
E1
Langensandbrcke
C6

Ledergasse
B3, C3
Libellenstrasse
A1
Liebenauweg
D1
Lindenfeldsteig
E2, F2
Lindenfeldstrasse
E2, F2
Lwengartenstrasse
C1, C2
Lwengraben
A3, B3
Lwenplatz
C2
Lwenstrasse
C2, D2
Lwenterrasse
C2
Luegetenstrasse
A2
Luegislandegg
A3
Luzerner Originale-Gssli A3
Luzernerquai
F2, F3
Mariahilfgasse
B3
Mariahilfsteig
B3
Metzgernbgli
B3
Metzgerrainle
B3, B4
Militrstrasse
A3, A4
Moosmattstrasse
B6
Moosstrasse
B5, B6, C6
Morgartenstrasse
C4, C5
Mhlemattrain
A2
Mhlemattstrasse
A2
Mhlenplatz
A3, B3
Mnzgasse
B4
Murbacherstrasse B5, C4, C5
Museggrain
B3
Museggstrasse A3, B2, B3, C2
Mythenstrasse
B6, C6
Nationalquai
D3, E2, E3
Neustadtstrasse
C5, C6
Neuweg
B6, C6
Obergrundstrasse A4/A6, B4/B6
Passage zum Stein
C3
Pstergasse
A4
Pilatusstrasse
A5, B4, B5, C4
Rathausquai
B3, C3
Rathaus-Steg
B3, B4
Rebhalde
A3
Reckenbhlstrasse
A6
Reckenbhltreppe
A6, B6
Reusssteg
A4, B4
Rigistrasse
E2, F1, F2
Robert-Znd-Strasse
C4
Rosenbergstrasse
B1
Rosengssli
B4
Rssligasse
B3
Rsslimatte
D6
Rsslimattstrasse
D5, D6
Rsslimattweg
C6, D6
Ruisbergstrasse
D1
Rtligasse
A4
Slihgel
A6, B6
Slistrasse
A5, A6, B6
Sankt-Leodegar-Strasse
D2
Sedelstrasse
A1
Seebrcke
C3, C4
Seehofpassage
C3
Seehofstrasse
C3
Seidenhofstrasse
B4, C4
Sempacherstrasse
B4, C5
Sepp-Ebinger-Gssli
B3
Schirmertorweg
B3
Schlossergasse
B3

Schlossstrasse
A6
Schlossweg
A6
Schrimerstrasse
A2, B2
Schtzenstrasse
A4
Schwanenplatz
C3
Schweizerhausstrasse E1, E2
Schweizerhofquai
C2, C3, D2, D3
Sonnbhlstrasse D1, D2, E1, E2
Sonnenhof
B2
Spannortstrasse
B6, C6
Spelteriniweg
E6
Spitalstrasse
A1
Spitalweg
A1, A2
Spreuerbrcke
A3, A4
St. Annastrasse
F1
St. Karli-Quai
A3
St. Karlistrasse
A3
Stadthausstrasse
B4
Stadthofstrasse
C2, D2
Stauacherweg
D1, E1
Steigerweg
E1
Steinenstrasse
C1
Steinentreppe
C1
Sternenplatz
B3
Stiefelplatz
C3
Stiftstrasse
D2
Sesswinkel
B3
Suva Passage
D5, D6
Taubenhausstrasse
A6, B6
Theaterstrasse
B4
Theilinggasse
B3
Titlisstrasse
E1, E2
Tivolistrasse
F2
Tdistrasse
B6
Tpferstrasse
C2, C3
Tribschenhornweg
E6, F6
Tribschenstrasse
C6, D6, E6
Tulpenstrasse
A6
Ulmenstrasse
B6
Unter der Egg
B3, B4
Unterlachenstrasse
D6
Urnerhofweg
A1
Vonmattstrasse
A5
Wagenbachgasse
C3
Waisenstrasse
A3
Waldsttterstrasse
B5, C5
Weggisgasse
B3
Weinmarktgasse
B3
Werftestrasse
D5
Werftsteg
D4, D5, E5
Werchlaubengssli
B3
Werkhofstrasse
D5, D6, E5
Wesemilinring
C1, D1
Wesemlinhheweg
E1
Wesemlinrain
C1
Wesemlinstrasse
C1
Weystrasse
C2, D2
Winkelriedstrasse B4, B5, C5, C6
Zhringerstrasse
A4, A5
Zentralstrasse
C4, C5
Zinggentorstrasse
D2, E2
Zum Eselstall
B3
Zrichstrasse
C1, C2
Zybriweg
A2

lucerne.inyourpocket.com

Index
1871
18
Alfred Caffebar
22
Alpineum Kaffeehaus Bar
24
Ambassador
44
Art Deco Hotel Montana
43
Atelier Treger
33
Bar 58
23
Bar Capitol
23
Bellevue
44
Besito Milonga
25
Boat rental
15
Bourbaki Panorama
29
Brienzer Rothorn by steam train
and cable car
40
Bucherer
36
Burgerstube (Hotel Wilden
Mann)
20
Buvette Inseli
15
Cacadou Club
26
Caf de Ville
22
Casagrande Gift Shop
35
Casineum
26
CHRIST Watches & Jewelry 36
Churrascaria Do Sul
20
Comme Ca
34
Confiserie Bachmann Chocolate-Land
34
Continental-Park
43
Coop City
33
Crazy CupCake Cafe
22
Das schwarze Schaf / Das
weisse Schaf
25
De La Paix
44
Dwarf trail Muggestutz
(Hasliberg) & Mount Pilatus 42
El Rincon Argentino
18
Embassy
36
Emmen Center
35
Engelberg - Titlis Rotair
40
Falken
45
Felsenegg Garten Restaurant 19
Fish market
33
Fondue House
17
Forum Schweizer Geschichte
Schwyz
30, 40
Frigay Night (at the Loft Club)
24
Fritschi
20
Garni Hotel Drei Knige
44
Gletschergarten
30
Globus
34
Golden Pass - Panoramic Train
41
Grand Casino Luzern
23
Grand Hotel Europe
44
Grottino 1313
18
Guess
34
Guided Pilatus tour
29
Hans Erni Museum
30
Harry's Souvenir Shop
35
Helvetiaplatz farmers' market 33
Hess Uhren
36
Historical museum
42
Hofgarten
21
Hotel ALPINA Luzern
44

Come here to slow down: the lakeside promenade.


Hotel Astoria
44
Hotel Garni Spatz
45
Hotel MONOPOL Luzern
43
House of Chronoswiss
37
Ibis Styles Luzern City
45
Jazzkantine
22
Jesuitenkirche
27
Kaiten Sushi-Bar
17
Kapellbrcke (Chapel Bridge) &
Wasserturm
27
KKL Lucerne
28
Klub Kegelbahn
26
Kurz Jewellery & Watches
37
Lake Lucerne cruises
28
Li Tai Pe
17
Louis Bar (Art Dco Hotel
Montana)
23
Lwendenkmal
28
Lucerne museum card / Lion
Pass
27
Luzernerhof
45
Luzern Youth Hostel
45
Luz Seebistro
22
Marc O'Polo
34
Masala
17
Max Chocolatier
34
Meiringen - Hasliberg Muggestutz Dwarftrail
41
Meyer. Kulturbeiz.
23
Mount Rigi
31
Mr. Pickwick Pub
24
Museggmauer
29
Neubad
24
Nuda Accesoires
33
Oskar
18
Penthouse (Hotel Astoria) 25
Peperoncini Obergrund
24
Pilatus
31
Pilatus Kulm
45
Queerbad (at Neubad)
24
Radisson Blu
44

facebook.com/LucerneInYourPocket

Renaissance
43
Restaurant zum Schlssel
18
Roadhouse
26
Romantik Hotel Wilden Mann44
Salsa 59
25
Sammlung Rosengart
30
Saphir boat tour
29
Schlssli Utenberg
19
Schloss Meggenhorn
42
Schmocker Souvenirs
35
Schr
25
Schweizer Heimatwerk
35
Schweizerhof
43
Sedel
25
Seebad
15
Seminarhotel Sempachersee 45
Sokolov Jewelry
37
Sonnenberg
45
Soul Chicken
20
Splendid
37
Stadtkeller
21
Stanserhorn
40
Stocker Books
33

Elge Kenneweg/Luzern Tourismus

Suite (Hotel Monopol)


24
Sunset Bar
15
Swiss Corner Fresco
35
Swiss Lion
37
The Bruch Brothers
25
Thorenberg
45
Tierpark Goldau
40
Tourist
45
Transa - Travel and Outdoor 35
Transport Museum
42
Verkehrshaus
30
Villa Honegg
45
Volire
15
Waldschwimmbad Zimmeregg
15
WE
34
Weisses Schloss
18
Wiederkehr
18
Wilhelm Tell
21
Wirtshaus Taube
21

FEATURES INDEX
Adult entertainment
Bourbaki
Breakfast
Cheese restaurants
Classical dancing
Decoding the menu
Lake Lucerne
Live music venues
Luzern or Lucerne?
Queer Lucerne
Swiss cuisine

26
14
22
17
25
19
28
25
8
24
20
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FOR INDIVIDUALISTS.

Timemaster Chronograph Skeleton (CH-9043SB-BK): The rst skeletonized chronograph of our sporty collection
represents a perfect way to master time. Water-resistant to 100 m and equipped with Super-LumiNova uorescent hands
and markers, this timepiece is ready for every second of an active lifestyle. www.chronoswiss.com

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