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ENVIRONMENTS
377
378
SEDIMENTARY ENVIRONMENTS
deltas, or in other marine or even lacustrine settings that have no connection with
deltas. They are the most dynamic of all depositional environments and are subject to
both seasonal and longer-range changes that keep them in a state of virtually constant
flux. In contrast to deltas, which are influenced by both fluvial and marine processes,
beach and barrier-island systems are generated predominantly by marine processes,
aided to a minor degree by eolian sand transport.
Modern and Holocene beaches have perhaps been studied more extensively than
any other depositional environment owing to their recreational use; their accessibility;
their economic potential as a source of placer gold, platinum, and various minerals;
and their importance as an erosion buffer between the sea and the land. Much of the
study of modern beaches has been carried out by coastal engineers, geographers, and
MARGINAL-MARINE
ENVIRONMENTS
379
Depositional Setting
Beach and barrier-island complexes are best developed on wave-dominated coasts
where tidal range is small to moderate. Coasts are classified on the basis of tidal range
into three groups: (1) microtidal (0-2 m tidal range), (2) mesotidal (2-4 m tidal range),
and (3) macrotidal (>4 m tidal range). Hayes (1975) has shown that barrier-island and
associated environments occur preferentially along microtidal coasts, where they are
well developed and nearly continuous. They are less characteristic of mesotidal coasts
and, when present, are typically short or stunted, with tidal inlets common. Barriers are
generally absent on macrotidal coasts; extreme tidal range causes wave energy to be dis
persed and dissipated over too great a width of shore zone to effectively form barriers.
Considerable difference of opinion exists about the origin of barrier-island com
plexes. As summarized by Reineck and Singh (1980), mechanisms of origin may
include the following:
1. shoal and longshore-bar aggradation, that is, upward building and eventual emer
gence of offshore bars
2. spit segmentation by breaching and detachment of spits oriented parallel to the
coast
3. mainland ridge engulfment owing to submergence and drowning of shorelineattached beaches
4. welding or veneering of Holocene dune, beach, and foreshore sand into and over
pre-Holocene topographic highs
5. lateral shifting of coastal sands during transgression to form the barrier islands
Mechanisms (2), (3), and (5) appear most feasible; however, composite modes of origin
seem possible. The origin controversy remains unresolved because most of the evi
dence pertaining to origin has been destroyed by subsequent modification (Reinson,
1992).
Subenvironments. Deposits of the beach and barrier-island environment can occur as
one of the following:
380
SEDIMENTARY ENVIRONMENTS
1. a single beach attached to the mainland
2. a broader beach-ridge system that constitutes a strand plain that consists of multi
ple parallel beach ridges and parallel swales but that generally lacks well-developed
lagoons or marshes
3. a barrier island separated wholly or partly from the mainland by a lagoon or marsh
(Fig. 11.20)
A type of strand plain consisting of sandy ridges elongated along the coast and sepa
rated by coastal mudflat deposits is called a chenier plain. As illustrated in Figure
11.21, the barrier-island setting is not a single environment but a composite of three
separate environments:
1. the sandy barrier-island chain itself (the subtidal to subaerial barrier-beach com
plex)
2. the enclosed lagoon, estuary, or marsh behind it (the back-barrier, subtidal-intertidal
region)
3. the channels that cut through the barrier and connect the back-barrier lagoon to the
open sea (the subtidal-intertidal delta and inlet-channel complex)
A. MAINLAND-ATTACKED BEACH
381
MARGINAL-MARINE ENVIRONMENTS
FIGURE 11.21 Generalized model
illustrating the various subenviron
ments in a transgressing barrierisland system. (From Reinson,
G. E., 1992, Transgressive barrier
island and estuarine systems, in
R. G. Walker and N. P. James (eds.),
Facies of models. Fig. 3, p. 180,
reproduced by permission of Geo
logical Association of Canada.)
DUNES
BEACH
TIDAL FLAT
MARSH
382
SEDIMENTARY ENVIRONMENTS
SHOREFACE
FORESHOREN
BACKSHORE-DUNE
-SWASH
ZONE
Lagoon
Mainland
Wave Processes. The influence of orbital wave motion in generating bedforms such as
ripples and dunes is discussed in Chapter 3. As deep-water orbital waves approach
shallow water where depth is about one-half the wave length, the orbital motion of the
water is impeded by interaction with the bottom. Orbits become progressively more
elliptical and eventually develop near the bottom a nearly horizontal to-and-fro motion
that can move sediment back and forth. This to-and-fro movement is important in gen
erating ripple bedforms as well as in producing some net sediment transport. As waves
progress farther shoreward into the shallow shoaling zone (Fig. 11.22), forward veloc
ity of the wave slows, wave length decreases, and wave height increases. The waves
eventually steepen to the point where orbital velocity exceeds wave velocity and the
wave breaks, creating the breaker zone. Breaking waves generate turbulence that
throws sediment into suspension and also brings about a transformation of wave
motion to create the surf zone. In this zone, a high-velocity translation wave (a wave
translated by breaking into a current), or bore, is projected up the upper shoreface,
causing landward transport of bedload sediment and generation of a short-duration
"suspension cloud" of sediment. At the shoreline, the surf zone gives way to the swash
zone, in which a rapid, very shallow swash flow moves up the beach, carrying sedi
ment in partial suspension, followed almost immediately by a backwash flow down
the beach. The backwash begins at very low velocity but accelerates quickly. (If heavy
minerals are present in the suspended sediment, they settle rapidly to generate a thin
heavy-mineral lamina.) The width of the surf and swash zones is governed by the
steepness of the shoreface and foreshore. Very steep shorefaces may develop no surf
zone at all, and waves break very close to shore, whereas gentle shorefaces commonly
have very wide surf zones.
Sediment transport on beaches is particularly important landward of the shoal
ing zone. In the high-energy breaker zone, coarse sediments move by saltation in a
MARGINAL-MARINE ENVIRONMENTS
383
series of elliptical paths that move sediment parallel to the coast, while finer sediment
is thrown into suspension (Fig. 11.23). So-called translation waves, which are actually
currents, transport sediment through the surf and swash zone up the beach face. If
waves approach the shoreline obliquely (a very common occurrence), sediment is
transported alongshore in a zigzag manner owing to the fact that the upswash is
directed across the beach at an angle, whereas the backswash flow is perpendicular to
the beach face. Thus, normal waves of moderate to low energy tend to produce a net
landward and alongshore transport of sediments in a largely constructive sedimenta
tion regime in which the beach builds owing to deposition. Repeated deposition and
reentrainment of sediment in the beach regime tends to winnow and remove the finest
sediment, producing generally well-sorted, positively skewed deposits. Owing to highenergy conditions created by storms, steep, long-period storm waves cause consider
able erosion of the beach area and a net displacement of sediment in a seaward direc
tion (Davis, 1985). Great quantities of sediment are thrown into suspension during
storms for transport by surf-zone currents, and sand bars on the inner beach may be
planed off and displaced seaward considerable distances. Thus, it is quite common to
observe marked seasonal changes on modern beaches, which often build in a landward
direction during low-energy summer conditions but are eroded and reduced in size
during winter storm conditions.
Wave-induced Currents. As breakers and winds pile water against the beach, not only
do they create bidirectional translation waves that move up and down the swash zone,
but they also create two different types of unidirectional currents: longshore currents
and rip currents. Longshore currents are generated when waves that approach the
shore at an angle break, and a portion of the translation wave is deflected laterally par
allel to the shore. These currents move parallel to shore following longshore troughs,
which are shallow troughs in the lower part of the surf zone oriented parallel to the
strandline (shoreline) (Fig. 11.22). This system of parallel longshore troughs between
shallow beach ridges is referred to as a ridge and runnel system. The velocity of long
shore currents is related to wave height and the angle at which the waves approach
shore. As water piles up between shallow sand bars and the shoreline with continued
shoreward movement of waves, it cannot go back against incoming waves the way it
came. It must find a different way to return seaward. Thus, it moves parallel to shore
as a longshore current until it finds a topographic low between sand bars, where it con
verges with flow moving in the opposite direction (Fig. 11.24) and moves seaward as a
narrow, near-surface current. These converging, seaward-moving currents are called
rip currents. Longshore currents play a very important role in sediment transport and
384
SEDIMENTARY ENVIRONMENTS
Wave Crests
Wave Approach
FIGURE 11.24 Schematic representation of longshore currents that move locally in opposite
directions, generated owing to bending (refraction) of wave crests as they move over an irregular
seafloor, leading to the formation of rip currents that flow seaward through the breaker zone.
deposition on beaches because they achieve velocities great enough to transport sand.
Together with the processes producing transport in the swash zone, they are primary
agents of alongshore sand movement. The transport paths of sand under longshore cur
rents of different relative velocity are illustrated in Figure 11.25. Rip currents are pri
marily surface phenomena and thus are less important in near-bed sediment transport
than longshore currents. Nonetheless, they can entrain considerable quantities of sedi
ment (and perhaps an occasional unwary swimmer) and move it through the breaker
zone out into shoal water.
Wind. In addition to the indirect role that wind plays in generating normal waves,
storm waves, and longshore currents, wind also plays a direct role in sediment trans
port on beaches. The subaerial parts of beaches, above high-tide level, are more or less
continuously under the influence of wind. Large quantities of sand may be trans
ported, in a largely onshore to alongshore direction, by wind action. (Sea breezes tend
to move from cool ocean water onto warmer land surfaces.) Wind may also move sand
about on the lower shoreface as sands dry out during low-tide phases.
385
MARGINAL-MARINE ENVIRONMENTS
^.NJ
<
FIGURE 11.25 Transport of sand on beaches by longshore currents under different surf condi
tions. A. Sediment movement under surf conditions where the longshore current and the wave
motion exert an equal influence. B. Sediment grain motion under conditions of a high-velocity
longshore current (velocity > 60 cm/s). C. Sediment grain motion where the longshore current
velocity is less than 30 cm/s, and the onshore-offshore motion of waves controls the sediment
grain transport. (After Ingle, J. C, 1966, The movement of beach sand: Developments in Sedimen
tology, v. 5. Fig. 46, p. 53, reprinted by permission of Elsevier Science Publishers, Amsterdam.)
tens to hundreds of meters broad, up to hundreds of kilometers long, and 10 to 20 m
thick (Reineck and Singh, 1980). It may be interrupted in many places along its length
by deltaic, estuarine, bay, and other deposits where these features cut across the beach.
Where barrier islands occur, sands of the barrier beach grade landward into back-barrier
sediments that may include washover sands; tidal-delta sands and muds; lagoonal silts
and muds; and sandy, muddy tidal-flat and marsh deposits (Fig. 11.21).
Beach (Foreshore and Backshore) Deposits. The beach face, or foreshore, is the intertidal zone extending from mean low-tide level to mean high-tide level, corresponding
to the zone of wave swash. Sediments of the foreshore consist predominantly of fine to
medium sand but may also include scattered pebbles and gravel lenses or layers. Sedi
mentary structures are mainly parallel laminae, formed during swash-backwash flow,
that dip gently (2-3) seaward. Thin, heavy-mineral laminae are commonly present,
alternating with layers of quartzose sand. Thin, lenticular sets of low-angle, landwarddipping laminae, possibly formed by antidune migration during backswash, may be
present also. Some foreshore sands display high-angle, landward-dipping cross-beds
caused by migration of foreshore ridges. The foreshore is separated from the backshore
by a break in slope at the berm crest (Fig. 11.22), which is formed by sand thrown up
by storm waves. The backshore is inundated only during storm conditions and is thus
a zone dominated by intermittent storm-wave deposition and eolian sand transport
and deposition. Faint, landward-dipping, horizontal laminae, interrupted locally by
crustacean burrows, record deposition by storm waves. These beds may be overlain by
387
MARGINAL-MARINE ENVIRONMENTS
storm wanes (Reinson, 1984). Storm deposits tend to be thicker and more lenticular
than normal shoreface deposits and, as mentioned, are commonly characterized by
hummocky cross-stratification.
Summary Characteristics of Modern Beach Deposits. Beach deposits are composed
predominantly of fine- to medium-grained, well-sorted sand that displays subhorizon
tal parallel laminations and low-angle, seaward-, landward-, and alongshore-dipping
cross-beds. Characteristic facies developed along different parts of the beach profile are
shown in Figure 11.26. Bioturbation structures are common in middle and lower
shoreface deposits and in sediments of the transition zone between the beach and open
shelf. A typical vertical succession of facies developed on an idealized, low-energy,
prograding (regressive) beach is illustrated in Figure 11.27. In a preserved transgressive
beach-shelf deposit, the succession of facies shown in Figure 11.27 would be essen
tially reversed; however, transgressive beach-shelf successions appear to be less com
monly preserved than are regressive successions.
Swash zone
100
200
I
Surf zone
Wave
reformation
Breaker-Surf
Trough
Landward
slope
300
400
_L_
Breaker zone
Shoaling waves
Bar crest
Seaward
slope
Trough
500 meters
_J
Shoaling zone
Landward
slope
Bar crest
FIGURE 11.26 Facies model of near-surface sediments developed on nearshore barred topogra
phy showing principal kinds of sedimentary structures in different parts of the beach. (From
Davidson-Amott, R. G. D., and B. Greenwood, 1976, Facies relationships on a barred coast,
Kouchibouguac Bay, New Brunswick, Canada, in R. A. Davis, Jr., and R. L. Ethington (eds.), Beach
and nearshore sedimentation: Soc. Econ. Paleontologists and Mineralogists Spec. Pub. 24. Fig. 4,
p. 154, reproduced by permission of SEPM, Tulsa, Okla.)
Seaward
slope
388
SEDIMENTARY ENVIRONMENTS
^f^ssss
SAND DUNES
FORESHORE
UPPER
SHOREFACE
\-::
MIDDLE
SHOREFACE
LOWER
SHOREFACE
sVWl
^ cccccc?
acaP <&4
j C CCCCC C7
GXCOZ O CCCQ
Fine sand
Very strong bioturbation, mainly by heart-urchins.
Almost no inorganic primary sedimentary structures
TRANSITION- ZONE
Ode C? cccc
50
200
MARGINAL-MARINE
ENVIRONMENTS
389
390
SEDIMENTARY ENVIRONMENTS
SWAMP.
COAL SEATROCK,CLAYEY
SILTSTONE WITH OUARTZOSE SANDSTONE FLASERS
TIDAL FLAT
LAGOON
STORM
WASHOVERS
LAGOON
SWAMP
TIDAL CHANNEL
TIDAL FLAT
FLOOD TIDAL DELTA
LAGOON
391
MARGINAL-MARINE ENVIRONMENTS
FIGURE 11.29 Barrier-island
facies generated by transgression
and regression. Part A illustrates
transgression owing to shoreface
retreat during gradual sea-level rise,
and B shows the effects of rapid
sea-level rise, producing in-place
drowning. SL = sea level. Part C
illustrates the facies formed as a
result of progradation under condi
tions of high sediment supply rela
tive to sea-level change. (A and B,
after Rampino, M. R., and J. E.
Sanders, 1980, Holocene transgres
sion in south-central Long Island,
New York: Jour. Sed. Petrology, v.
50. Fig. 8, p. 1075, reproduced by
permission of Society of Economic
Paleontologists and Mineralogists,
Tulsa, Okla. Elliott, T., 1986, Silici
clastic shorelines, in H. G. Reading
(ed.), Sedimentary environments
and facies: Blackwell Scientific
Publications. Fig. 7.33, p. 180.
Based on Fischer, 1961; Swift,
1975; and Sanders and Kumar,
1975. C, after Galloway, W. E., and
D. K. Hobday, 1983, Terrigenous
clastic depositional systems:
Springer-Verlag, New York. Fig.
6.10, p. 126.)
Advancing
shoreface/shelf sand
Rising
sea level
Shoreface
_,
..
.
sediments Drowned bamer
Rising
sea level
C Regression
392
SEDIMENTARY ENVIRONMENTS
REGRESSIVE (PROGRADING)
BARRIER MODEL
10
k^AJ^/DUNE
S<^4^
^g^ BACKSHORE
2 6 Hl^ll FORESHORE
0)
"S
UPPER
LU
O
H9
S MIDDLE
r
:*.r.|
LOWER
BARRIER-INLET
MODEL
TRANSGRESSIVE
BARRIER MODEL
BACKSHORE
-DUNE
WASHOVER
MARSH
WASHOVER
NCHANNEL
^TIDALFLAT
FLOOO TIDAL
DELTA
SUBAQUEOUS
LAGOON
LEGEND
FLASERS
BIOTURBATION,TRACE FOSSILS
SHELLS, SHELL DEBRIS
ROOTS.ORGANIC DEBRIS
SANDSTONE
SILTY, MUDDY
COAL LENSES
EROSIONAL SURFACE
WITH LAG DEPOSIT
PLANE BEDS
PLANAR CROSSBEDDING
TROUGH CROSSBEDDING
RIPPLE LAMINAE
FIGURE 11.30 End-member facies models for transgressive barrier, regressive barrier, and bar
rier inlet stratigraphic sequences. A standard 10-m unit is shown, but thickness could range up to
a few tens of meters. A spit platform (C) is the subaqueous part of a spit, formed by longshore cur
rents. (From Reinson, G. E., 1984, Barrier island and associated strand-plain systems, in R. G.
Walker (ed.), Facies models, 2nd ed: Geoscience Canada Reprint Ser. 1. Fig. 26, p. 133, reprinted
by permission of Geological Association of Canada.)
by migration of spit and beach sands over tidal-channel deposits. (A spit is a fingerlike
extension of a beach into deeper water.)
Two specific examples of ancient beach and barrier-island deposits are included
here to illustrate differences in ancient regressive deposits and transgressive barrier
deposits. Figure 11.31 shows a regressive, or progradational, succession in the Creta
ceous Gallup Sandstone of Northwestern New Mexico (McCubbin, 1982). In this suc
cession, sandy beach deposits overlie burrowed silty, offshore shales containing nor
mal marine fossils. The basal unit of the succession consists of fine- to very
fine-grained sandstone with mostly subhorizontal to planar stratification and hum
mocky cross-stratification. Burrows are abundant. This unit is overlain above a scoured
surface by fine- to medium-grained sandstones with high-angle cross-stratification in
trough-shaped sets. Some thin interbeds with planar stratification are also present.
Burrowing is less common in this unit than in the basal section. The uppermost part of
the succession consists of fine-grained, well-sorted sandstones characterized by nearly
n-r
k
5-
o-
10-
HIGH ANGLE
CROSSSTRATIFICATION
n=81
40-
50- 15-
*,
\
20
n=5
\r
25-
25
Roots at top
Low angle cross stratification
inclined 0-5 NE (seaward)
Heavy mineral placers
/
VERY
FINE
SAND
FINE
SAND
MED.
SAND
CO
CO
CO
Lower shoreface
Rapid deposition by storm
surge and slow deposition
with bioturbation.
Abundant burrows
|
\
90100- 3D-J
WAVE RIPPLE
CRESTS
20-
INTERPRETATION
Scour surfaces
70-
DESCRIPTION
60-
80-
BEACH PLACERS
.5
/
\
2030-
DIRECTIONAL FEATURES
FIGURE 11.31 Vertical facies sequence in part of the Cretaceous Gallup Sandstone, northwestern New Mexico. The
sequence is interpreted as a progradational beach deposit, probably formed on a nonbarred coast. (After McCubbin,
D. G., 1982, Barrier island and strand-plain facies, in P. A. Scholle and D. Spearing (eds.), Sandstone depositional
environments: Am. Assoc. Petroleum Geologists Mem. 31. Fig. 25, p. 260, reprinted by permission of AAPG, Tulsa,
Okla.)
Offshore
Slow deposition from
suspension with bioturba
tion
394
SEDIMENTARY ENVIRONMENTS
horizontal, planar stratification and very low-angle cross-stratification; root traces are
present at the top. These three divisions of the Gallup Sandstone are interpreted to
represent, in ascending order, lower-shoreface, upper-shoreface, and beach-foreshore
deposits. The grain-size and stratification characteristics of the Gallup Sandstone sug
gest that it was developed on a coast with moderate to high wave energy. Because
back-barrier lagoonal sediments are absent in this succession, we can infer that it is
probably a mainland beach deposit, formed on a coast that lacked barriers.
The Cretaceous Cliff House Sandstone in the San Juan Basin of northwestern
New Mexico has been interpreted as a transgressive barrier complex (Donselaar, 1989;
McCubbin, 1982). The interpreted paleogeography of the Cliff House depositional site
in Late Cretaceous time is shown in Figure 11.32. The basal part of the stratigraphic
section shown in this figure consists of dark, laminated shales with abundant plant
fragments and widely spaced layers with carbonized plant roots. Coal beds up to 1.8 m
thick are common, and brackish-water fossils such as oysters are present. This shale
and coal unit is interpreted as back-barrier lagoonal sediments. It is overlain by and
interfingers with fine- to medium-grained barrier-bar sandstones characterized by highangle trough cross-stratification, hummocky cross-stratification, and planar stratifica
tion. Ophiomorpha burrows are common. Although the overall succession shown in
Figure 11.32 is interpreted to be a transgressive succession, accumulation of the barrier
sands took place during regressive intervals (Donselaar, 1989). During subsequent
transgressive intervals, part of the barrier sand was eroded; only topographically lowlying parts of the barrier (e.g., shoreface, tidal-inlet, and lagoonal sediment) were pre
served. The Cliff House barrier sands interfinger in a seaward direction with the
marine Lewis Shale.
Other siliciclastic sedimentary successions identified as beach and barrier-island
complexes are present in rocks of widely differing ages in North America. Such suc
cessions have been reported from several Pennsylvanian formations in the
Appalachian Basin of Kentucky, Virginia, West Virginia, and Tennessee; the Lower Cre
taceous Muddy Sandstone of Wyoming and Montana; the Eocene Wilcox Group of east
Texas; and the Quaternary of California (e.g., Davis, 1992). Several ancient carbonate
deposits have also been interpreted as beach complexes. The Lower Cretaceous
Edwards Formation of west Texas, the Lower Cretaceous Cow Creek Formation of cen
tral Texas, the Mississippian Newman Formation in eastern Kentucky, and the Missis-
MARGINAL-MARINE
ENVIRONMENTS
395
sippian Mission Canyon Formation in the Williston Basin in the Montana area are
examples of ancient stratigraphic units that contain putative carbonate beach deposits.
Carbonate beach deposits are further discussed in Chapter 13.
396
SEDIMENTARY ENVIRONMENTS
Ashley (1989), and Wiley (1976). The distinguishing characteristics of estuaries and
lagoons have been summarized in shorter contributions by Boothroyd (1978), Clifton
(1982), Colombo (1977), Fairbridge, (1980), Hayes (1975), Nichols and Biggs (1985),
Phleger (1969), and Reinson (1992).
(1b) Fjord
(2) Rio
ow relief