100

The classic tailored trouser block

Measurements required to draft the block
Measurements from any of the size charts in this
book (page 1214) or personal measurements (see
page 178) can be applied to the block.
A size 12 from the size chart on page 12 (for fashion
garments) is used for this illustrated example.
Note There is 1 cm ease in the waistline of the
trousers. The waistline of the trousers should always
be eased onto the waistband.
waist
hips
waist to hip

68 cm
94 cm
20.6 cm

body rise
waist to floor
trouser bottom
width (page 13)

28 cm
104 cm
22 cm

Front

Square both ways from 0.

01 body rise; square across.
02 waist to hip; square across.
03 waist to floor measurement; square across.
14 half the measurement 13 minus 5 cm; square
across.
15 one twelfth hip measurement plus 1.5 cm;
square up to 6 and 7.
68 quarter hip measurement plus 0.5 cm.
59 one sixteenth hip measurement plus 0.5 cm.
710 1 cm; join 106, join 69 with a curve touching
a point:
sizes
68
2.75 cm from 5
sizes 1014 3 cm
from 5
sizes 1620 3.25 cm from 5
sizes 2226 3.5 cm
from 5
1011 quarter waist plus 2.25 cm.
Construct a dart on the line from 0; length 10 cm,
width 2 cm.
312 half trouser bottom width minus 0.5 cm.
413 the measurement 312 plus 1.3 cm (sizes 1620
1.5 cm; 2224 1.7 cm).
Draw in side seam through points 11, 8, 13, 12; curve
hipline outwards 0.5 cm.
314 half trouser bottom width minus 0.5 cm.
415 the measurement 413.
Draw inside leg seam 9, 15, 14; curve 915 inwards
0.75 cm.

Back

516 quarter the measurement 15; square up to 17

on the hipline, 18 on the waistline.
1619 half the measurement 1618.
1820 2 cm.

2021 2 cm.
2122 quarter waist plus 4.25 cm; join 2122 to
touch the horizontal line from 0.
923 half the measurement 59.
2324 0.5 cm.
Join 2119 and 1924 with a curve touching a point:
sizes
68
4 cm
from 16
sizes 1014 4.25 cm from 16
sizes 1620 4.5 cm
from 16
sizes 2226 4.75 cm from 16
1725 quarter hip plus 1.5 cm.
1226 1 cm.
1327 1 cm.
Draw in side seam through points 22, 25, 27, 26;
curve hipline outwards 0.5 cm, curve 2527 inwards
0.5 cm.
1428 1 cm.
1529 1 cm.
Draw inside leg seam 24, 29, 28; curve 2429 inwards
1.25 cm.
Divide the line 2122 into three parts. Mark points 30
and 31. Using the line 2122, square down from 30
and 31.
Construct darts on these lines 2 cm wide; length from
point 30 12 cm, length from point 31 10 cm.
Curve hemline down 1 cm at point 3.
Note For extra ease in the crutch line see the
adaptation on page 104, ref. 4.
Trace off back and front sections. It is usual for the
back block to face to the left and the right block to
face to the right, particularly if the design requires
complicated adaptations.

Tailored shorts
Shorts can be constructed from any of the trouser
blocks depending on the style.
Trace round trouser block required.
Draw a line parallel to the body rise line at depth
required.
Curve the back hemline downwards 1 cm.
Continue adaptation.

Alternative leg shaping

The fashion outline of trouser legs constantly alters;
the diagram shows alternative leg shaping. If classic
shaping is required, equal amounts are added or
subtracted to each side of each leg as shown in the
diagram.