THE HARTLEY NEW WISLEY 8

ERECTION AND GLAZING INSTRUCTIONS

FROM HARTLEY BOTANIC LIMITED.

RIDGE COVER

VENTILATOR ASSEMBLY

RIDGE CAP
PLAIN END
SINGLE PANE
CROSS MEMBER
DOOR END
ASSEMBLY

GUTTER ASSEMBLY

SPAN ASSEMBLY

LOUVRE

SIDE BASERAIL ASSEMBLY

ALUMINIUM KICK PLATE

It is essential that these instructions are read carefully all the way through before
starting erection. It is also suggested that each part is identified and how and
when it is used to complete the structure.
The plinth on which the greenhouse is to be placed must be level and flat. An
uneven foundation will lead to frustrating delays and subsequent disappointment.

page 1

TOOLS
1 - 8mm Drill (H.S.S or suitable for Aluminium)
1 - 8mm Masonry Drill
1 - Power Drill
1 - Medium Screwdriver - Slotted
1 - Medium Screwdriver - (Posi-Drive/Philips Head)
1 - Ring Spanner
1 - Open End Spanner
10mm AF Spanner for M6 Screws
8mm AF Spanner for M5 Screws,
1 - Tape Measure
1 - Small Hammer
Step Ladders

SCREWS ETC...
TYPE A Stainless steel hexagon head bolt
M6 x 12mm long complete with nut.
TYPE B Stainless steel self tapping screws.
(4.2mm dia x 13mm long) (8s x 1/2 long)
TYPE C Stainless steel self tapping screws.
(4.2mm dia x 9.5mm long) (8s x 3/8 long)
TYPE D Stainless Steel self tapping screws.
(4.2mm dia x 16mm long) (8s x 5/8 long)
TYPE E Stainless steel screw.
(5.5mm dia x 50mm long) (12s x 2 long)
complete with scaler washer and plastic plug.
TYPE G Stainless steel cheese head screw.
M5 x 12mm long complete with nut.
TYPE J Stainless steel hexagon head bolt
M6 x 16mm long complete with nut.
TYPE K Stainless steel hexagon head bolt
M6 x 25mm long complete with nut.
TYPE L Stainless steel hexagon head bolt
M6 x 20mm long complete with nut.

page 2

1.

The two side baserail assemblies, the plain end assembly and the door end
assembly should be placed on the ground to ensure that the greenhouse is
orientated with the door at the correct end. (Fig 2).
PLAIN END
ASSEMBLY

DOOR END
ASSEMBLY

Fig 2.
2.

Lay them together to form a perfect rectangle. This can be checked by

measuring the diagonals, they must be of identical dimensions. (Fig 2).

SIDE BASERAIL

Fig 3. Baserail drilling.

Cill position.
3.

CILL PLATE

Take the baserail assembly sections, place them centrally overlapping the
brickwork equally at each end. The correct distance apart for the baserail
assemblies, is 2381mm. Remove the cill once the positioning has been established
(Fig 3). Select a point approximately in the centre between each baserail bracket,
marking out this spot for drilling. The holes are not pre drilled thus allowing the
position to be drilled precisely into a solid foundation point, and not into a joint in
the brickwork. Drill as marked (for example a 4 pane house will have 4 fixings per
side) using an 8mm H.S.S drill. Drill into the foundation with an 8mm masonry
drill to a depth of 50mm to take the plug and screw provided (Fig 4). Insert the
plug washer and screw, tightening only sufficiently to hold the rails into position at
this stage. Once the structure is complete, remember to tighten all fixing screws
securely.

Fig 4. Detail of new 8 house baserail

and fixing
BASERAIL ASSEMBLY

CONCRETE OR
SOLID BRICK BASE

page 3

SEALER WASHER

PLUG

4.

Now the half span assemblies that create the separate pane lengths should be
assembled. The prefabricated half spans are joined together at the apex with a
fish plate on each side (Fig 5). Place the four brackets with the short edge to
each fish plate (two on each side) and fasten with L type bolts and nuts as
shown.
A TYPE
NUTS

ANGLE BRACKET

JOINING PLATE

Fig 5. Half spans/plate screws

5.

L TYPE BOLTS
AND NUTS

The completed spans are now fixed between the pair of angle brackets
previously factory fitted to the baserail assemblies. These are secured using J
type bolts and nuts (Fig 6). The plain and door aend assemblies to be fixed at a
later stage (Fig 14).
SPAN

COMPLETE SPANS

BASERAIL ASSEMBLY

ANGLE BRACKETS

J TYPE
BOLTS AND NUTS

Fig 6. Baserail and span details

6.

The four types of cross members are now fitted to the completed spans (Fig 7.)

Fig 7.

page 4

6a.

The lowest single pane cross member at the top of the vertical span section are
all of type C (Fig 8). These members are bolted onto the brackets already
attached to the spans using A type bolts and nuts.
TYPE C SINGLE PANE
CROSS MEMBER

A TYPE
BOLTS AND NUTS

Fig 8.
6b.

The second level of members at the top of the first facet are of two types.
Where there is no vent then type C are used as described above. Where a vent
is located the cross member (type D) has a flat plate for the window opening
mechanism. These are fixed in using A type bolts and nuts (Fig 9).
TYPE D UNDERVENT
CROSS MEMBER

Fig 9.
6c.

TYPE C SINGLE PANE

CROSS MEMBER

TYPE E OVERVENT
CROSS MEMBER

Fig 10.

At the third level there are two types of members. Type C are once again used
where there is no vent to be positioned and fixed as before. Where a vent is to
be positioned there is a cross member of identical form to the type C cross
member with the exception that it has two short cuts, each 30mm from either
end as type B (Fig 10). This is fixed as before by placing on top of the
brackets and fastening together using A type bolts and nuts.
NOTE:

The opening panes can only be located at intermediate

panes i.e.: not next to an end or partition.
TYPE A RIDGE CROSS
MEMBER

TYPE A RIDGE CROSS

MEMBER

A TYPE

6d.

Fig 11.
BOLTS AND NUTS
The final cross members are located close to the apex on either side of the
greenhouse. These are of type A members. These are fixed as per the other
members (Fig 11) using A type bolts and nuts.
page 5

For guidance, the chart gives standard vent numbers and placements
SIZE

No. OF VENTS

POSITION

4 PANE
5 PANE
6 PANE
7 PANE
8 PANE

2.
4.
4.
5.
6.

2 OR 3 ON BOTH SIDES.
2 TO 4 ON BOTH SIDES.
2 TO 5 ON BOTH SIDES.
2 TO 6 ON BOTH SIDES.
2 TO 7 ON BOTH SIDES.

A typical 5 pane layout would be :-

7.

The plain and door end assemblies are now secured to the baserail assembly,
(Fig 12) using the single bracket and A type bolts and nuts.

PLAIN END
ASSEMBLY
D/END P/END &
PARTITION
HORIZONTAL TO BE
FITTED LOOSELY
USING M6 X 12 NUTS
& BOLTS.
THEN ONCE GLASS IN
THESE POSITION HAS
BEEN FITTED BOLTS
MAY THEN BE
TIGHTENED

SINGLE BRACKET

Fig 12.

page 6

8.

When fixed to the baserail assembly, secure all the cross members to retain the end
assemblies in position using A type bolts and nuts. The end assemblies can now be
fixed into place in the same way as the baserail assemblies (Fig 13), locating two fixings
in each end assembly. The cill is now fitted to the plain end only. This is located between
the side baserail assemblies, pushed up hard against the end bottom rail before securing,
using the 50mm plugs and screws (type E)
WASHER

CILL

SCREW

SECTION VIEW

Fig 13.

CILL

9.

The ridge cover is now slid into position locating under the retaining lip of the type A
ridge cross member. On longer structures the ridge will be in two sections. Using
sealant (not supplied) stick the joining piece over the joint. See Fig 14.
RIDGE COVER PLATE

RIDGE COVER

JOINING PIECE
IF REQUIRED

TYPE A RIDGE CROSS

MEMBER

A TYP
CROSS B
SPAN
POSITIONING OF RIDGE COVER

SLIDE GLASS IN
AND BOLT END
PIECE ON

10.

Fig 14.

SLIDE GLASS IN

Fig 15.

The first items to be glazed are the opening vent sections. The glass for these
lights are 676mm x 697mm. Remove the member from the frame and slide the
fully edged glass into the slot, then when in place, bolt the top member back
into position on the frame.
page 7

11.

Now glaze the faceted section of the house starting nearest the ridge and from
one end (shall we say the door end). Each of the faceted panes are 730mm x
160mm. Each P.V.C. edged pane (with the 730mm edge horizontal) is pushed
up into the glazing slot in the type A ridge cross member (Fig 16) at the angle
shown, and then lowered into the slot of the cross member beneath (be it type
B or C).
GLASS

P.V.C. EDGING

Glass positioning.
12.

PUSH PANE UP AS SHOWN

(DOTTED SECTION), AND ALLOW
TO SLIDE DOWN INTO BOTTOM SLOT.

Fig 16.

The cappings (408mm) are then fitted to the first two panes and so on as you
work along the house. The capping securing the glass to the ends is called half
capping (Fig 17) whilst the capping to the spans is full capping. The capping is
secured onto the body by B type stainless steel self tapping screws.
Capping details and sections.
Both sides are completed in the same manner.
8s x 1/2 LONG OR
4.2 x 13mm LONG

HALF CAPPING
GLASS

FULL CAPPING
GLASS

Fig 17.
END SPAN

ST./STL. SCREW
FULL CAPPING
HALF CAPPING
GLASS
GLASS

BODY SPAN

page 8

13.

The lower facet is now glazed in the same way, with the glass size 711 x 730,
but this time using the 727mm long capping. Obviously with the exception of
the space for the vent panes.

14.

The next lower facet is now to be glazed and capped as previously described,
once again with the glass size 711 x 730 and capping length 727mm.

15.

Finally the last of the body panels to be glazed is the vertical face. This has
glass panes 730mm x 1067mm. The capping, both full and half is 1064mm long.
The P.V.C. edged panes are inserted as before, they are then secured with the
capping and the B type stainless steel screws.

16.

Having glazed the body, we now come to the end assemblies. Firstly identify the
glass, ready edged with P.V.C. as previously described.

TOP

Fig 18.
Plain end glass chart.

Fig 19.

The glass sections are located as before into the top glazing slot and then seated
in the lower glazing groove.

17.

The capping of the plain end assembly uses two types of capping (Fig 20). The
perimeter has half capping (8 pieces) whilst the center has two pieces of full
capping 2130mm long. These are secured as before.

page 9

369mm LONG
HALF CAPPING

Fig 20.

688mm LONG
HALF CAPPING

688mm LONG
HALF CAPPING

1122mm LONG
HALF CAPPING

2130mm LONG
FULL CAPPING

369mm LONG
HALF CAPPING
688mm LONG
HALF CAPPING

1122mm LONG
HALF CAPPING

268mm LONG
FULL CAPPING

688mm LONG
HALF CAPPING

1122mm LONG
HALF CAPPING

1122mm LONG
HALF CAPPING

18.

Fig 21.
1862mm LONG
D/SEAL CAPPING

The door end assembly glazed as shown in Fig 21. The three bolts (2, A type
and 1, K type and the spacer in the right hand bolt) should fit the runner. (Fig 22).
The capping used to fit the glass in position is:
a. Half capping around the perimeter 8 pieces.
b. Full capping (2130mm long) to the left of the door aperture and a
short piece (268mm long), located above the door aperture to the
right hand side.
c. A single piece of draught seal capping (1862mm long) located to the
right hand side of the door aperture.
All this capping is fixed with B type stainless steel self tapping screws.

page 10

19.

To glaze and cap the door, we suggest that you lay it flat on the floor or bench
to ensure that it is square. Insert the glass as before. (The top and bottom panes
are 324mm x 730mm, and the middle panes are 730mm x 730mm). The left
hand vertical half capping has a handle fitted, whilst the right hand is plain.
Fix with B type stainless steel self tapping screws.
DOOREND ASSEMBLY
DOOR TOP RUNNER
GLASS

K TYPE
A TYPE

DOOR
ASSEMBLY
FIX DOOR
RUNNER TO
THE FRONT OF THE
DOOR ADAPTER

A TYPE
SPACER
K TYPE
BOLT

ALUMINIUM PANEL
NUT

Door runner assembly. Fig 22.

D.R.E.
DOOR RUNNER

20.

To fit the door, place the upper door runner into position lining up the three holes, and
placing the two bolts into position above the door aperture, but not tightening.

GLASS HOUSE
DOOR END
ASSEMBLY

DOOR BOTTOM

DOOR SLIDE

Fig 23.

BRICK FOUNDATION

Locate the lower channel in the base of the door over the front edge of the rail
at the base of the door end assembly. The door is then raised to the vertical,
allowing the door baserail to click under the rebate cut into the draught seal
capping. Now lift the door to allow the runner wheels to clip over the upper
runner rail.
DOOR TOP
RUNNER

IT MAY BE NECESSARY
TO LEVER UP THIS
SECTION TO ALLOW
THE DOOR RUNNER
WHEELS TO BE LOCATED
END SPAN
ASSEMBLY

DOOR

End view of runner assembly with wheels.

Fig 24.

The reason for not securing the rail into position will now be evident since some
juggling of the door and rail will be required to locate everything correctly.
Now try the door. If running smoothly, and correctly located both at the base
and the top, you may now bolt the door top runner assembly into place. The spacer
should be placed behind the runner next to the end frame (D.R.E) prior to bolting up.
page 11

21.

The complete vent can now be fitted into the greenhouse frame by hooking the
vent top edge lip into the vent top cross member (type B) already fitted to the
house. The vent is offered into the top cross member with the vent in its widest
possible open position. (Fig 25).
TYPE B
CROSS MEMBER

VENT

Vent being positioned.

Fig 25.

When finally being fixed into place the vent frame will use two pieces of grey
P.V.C. strip, one down either side, to facilitate capping which is part of the final
glazing process. When the position of the vent strip is ascertained, you may find
easier to tap it into its final position with a hammer, if it is stiff. (Fig 26). In this
position the full capping now secures not only the glass on one side but also the
P.V.C. strip on the other side.
VENT

FULL CAPPING

P.V.C. STRIP

GLASS
BODY SPAN

Fig 26.
Note:- The casement stay is fitted to the lower section of the vent with a single
A type bolt and nut at the completion of the erection.

22.

With the ridge cover now an equal distance from either end, position the ridge end cap
and mark through the holes. Drill the ridge cover with a 3.5 bit and secure with two
type B screws.
RIDGE CAP
RIDGE COVER

Fig 27.
GLASS HOUSE END
ASSEMBLY

page 12

GUTTER AND DOWNPIPE

23.

On structures longer than 7 panes in length, the gutter will be in two parts, with a
welded slip joint. Slide the two halves together and drill a 7mm hole through the
centre. Slide the two halves apart and apply a liberal amount of sealant (not supplied)
to the slip joint. Slide the two halves back together and secure with a type A screw and
nut. Centralize the gutters so that the same amount protrudes at each end. See Fig.28.
Remove the capping screws from just below the eaves at the top of the span verticals.

FLAT CLIP

CIRCULAR CLIP

Fig 28.
Place the long gutter section in position as shown in Fig 29 ensuring contact up
against the cross member at eaves (C).
GUTTER
U

TYPE C CROSS
MEMBER

GUTTER

DOWNPIPE
SPAN
VERTICAL
CAPPING

D TYPE
SELF TAPPING
SCREWS

FLAT CLIP

DOWNPIPE

D TYPE
SELF TAPPING
SCREWS

Fig 30.

CIRCULAR CLIP

Fig 29.
Each of the flat clips to be placed underneath the gutter, holding it firmly with
D type screws, using the holes in the span vertical capping.
Take the plastic spigot U and collar V and un-couple by screwing anti-clockwise.
Position the spigot in the top of the gutter outlet hole and slide the collar over the
top of the downpipe. Push the downpipe up onto the spigot and slide the collar
upwards as far as it will go. Screw the collar clockwise until the downpipe is secured.
Slide the downpipe bracket until it aligns with a capping hole. Using a self tapping
screw D fix the bracket into position through the capping. See Fig 30.
The glasshouse main structure is now completed.
page 13

STAGING MK1 TYPE

END BRACKET ONE LEFT HAND

ONE RIGHT HAND BOLTED TO ENDS
USING B BOLTS

Fig 31.

BRACKET SCREWED
TO ALL HALF SPANS
4.2mm SCREWS (SELF TAPPING)
9.5mm LONG (TYPE H)

END BRACKETS

769mm
FROM PLINTH TO TOP OF BRACKET

Identify the left and right end brackets and place against inside the gable frame using the
dimension shown in Fig. 31. Mark through the two holes, spot and drill using a 6.5mm bit. Note:
be careful to drill only the inner face of the gable frame. Secure with type b screws with the nut
behind. Attach the intermediate brackets to the spans with type h self tapping screws, using
the dimensions shown in Fig. 32. Note: the bracket positions given place the legs at the plinth top
level. If the floor is lower, then the brackets should be lowered by the same amount.

Fig 32.

The corner sections of the staging framework may be supplied in straight lengths with two
notches some distance from either end, simply and gently bend these by hand to form a 90
angle as shown in Fig 33.
INTERMEDIATE SECTION

CROSS
MEMBERS
CORNER SECTION

STAGING LEGS

Make up the complete box sections with the intermediate straight sections, the cross members
and the staging legs, bolting all these together with b type bolts and nuts.
CROSS MEMBER
INTERMEDIATE SECTION
CORNER
SECTION

CORNER
SECTION

Fig 33.

STAGING LEGS

CROSS MEMBER

The entire assembly can now be placed in position, the back edge sitting on the brackets and
the front standing on its legs.
Place the corrugated trays in position with trays overlapping each other at the ends.
NOTE: To help retain moisture and to provide a flat surface, we suggest that pea gravel be
spread over the surface of the boards to a depth of at least 1.
page 14

SHELVING ERECTION INSTRUCTIONS

When erecting the shelving, support brackets should be screwed to the spans at the dimensions shown in
the sketch, using C type self tapping screws. Hook the support into the pair of brackets consistently on
either the left ot the right hand side of the brackets. There are two types of shelving laths, one with a
plain end and one with a slot at both ends.
GLASSHOUSE
END SPAN

SUPPORT BRACKET

HORIZONTAL
SUPPORT BRACKET
C TYPE
SELF TAPPING SCREWS

THIS END TO REST

ON THE HORIZONTAL
ANGLE SUPPORT

0m

85m

12

BRACKET

SHELVING LATHS

SHELVING SUPPORT
SLING

Fig 34.

SHELVING LATHS

THIS END TO SLOT INTO

NEXT SUPPORT

Position and fix the horizontal support bracket to the gable vertical pre drilled hole using type A bolt.
Clamp the bracket at the other end and drill through with a 06.5mm bit. Fix using type A bolt and
repeat at the other gable.
Starting from the gable end, take the end laths and place four sections with the unslotted ends resting on
the gable horizontal glazing member. Place the slotted ends on the shelvng sling. Take four middle laths
and position alternately between the end laths on the support sling. Continue along the glasshouse until
the final four end laths are fitted. Note; take great care not to disturb the slings until the final laths are
positioned. See Fig. 34.
Note: If the shelving does not run the full length between the ends or end and partition (such as a
short run or the position in front of a partition), drill and bolt one end lath using the 35mm long screw
provided.
LOUVRE
There are two sizes of louvre frames, one of these can replace any bottom pane of glass, the other can
be placed in the centre of the plain end, by simply replacing glass pane D. When being used in the side
replacing pane (c) the louvre will go in between the panes, resting in the slot in the baserail. A splitter
section (Fig 35) is then placed on top of the louvre and pressed down firmly.
Fig 35.
SPLITTER SECTION
END SPLITTER 736mm LONG
SIDE SPLITTER 714mm LONG

GLASS PANE
OVER LOUVRE
BODY 730 x 435
END 85 x 752

LOUVRE

The small piece of glass (k) or (m) is pushed up into the cross brace, then lowered into the groove above
the louvre to make up the complete pane. A piece of capping can then be fastened down either side,
holding both the glass and louvre in position (Fig 36.)
page 15

BLINDS
Instructions for fixing sprung roller blinds:
It is important to note that the blinds have a flat spindle at one end which should
always be offered up to the ridge with the flat spindle on the left (end blinds are
27mm shorter than the middle ones).
Brackets to hold blinds and rollers to be positioned and fixed into the span slot with
self tapping screws at the dimension shown using C type screws.
Ends Only:
Fix the flat bracket to the gable end member by drilling two holes using a bracket as a
template. Fasten with self tapping screws.
Brackets to be in line along glasshouse.
FLAT BRACKET
ROUND HOLE A

FLAT BRACKET
SLOTTED B

BENT BRACKET
ROUND HOLE C

FOUR BRACKETS
BENT BRACKET
SLOTTED D

CORD CLEAT
MIDDLE SPAN

50mm

57

END SPAN

SPAN SLOT

INNER BLIND
736mm LONG

END BLIND
709mm

50mm

26

5m

SELF TAPPING
SCREW

CORD CLEAT
WHEEL ASSEMBLY

VIEW LOOKING TOWARDS RIDGE (OUTSIDE TO IN)

Fix the cord wheel assembly centrally using A type screws, to inside edge of the type
C cross member - alternatively, if staging is present, fix the lower edge of the staging
allowing cord to pass underneath as shown, to be held at the front by the cleat.
page 16

AUTOVENT
Fitting an autovent:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Remove existing casement stay from vent

Fix Bayliss autovent to bracket with the screw supplied. (A and G type).
Using the existing hole in the cross member, fix the bracket with a nut and bolt.
Using the holes in the Bayliss as a template, drill two holes with a No. 7 drill.
Fix with screws and nuts as shown.
Refer to Bayliss instructions for setting.
(if used with shelving autovents can be connected in reverse).

Appendix
AUTOVENT
Changes made to Autovent adverse weather conditions ie.: strong winds or storms
1)

Remove thumb screw from the Autovent

2)

Place string around the Autovent arms and tie shut

This will enable the Autovent to stay in the closed position until the weather conditions
change where the Autovent can be restored to its normal working position

Thumb Screw
Autovent Arms

page 17

Swing Door
For glass-to-ground type structures, take the door assembly and position into the door gable aperture.
Note: inward opening doors fit from the inside, but outward opening doors fit from the outside. With
one person holding the outer frame, open the door and with a 7mm bit, drill straight through the door
outer frame and the structure frame in the eight approximate positions shown in Fig.1. Note: avoid
hinge and lock positions. Secure the frame with M6x30 screws pushed in from the door side.
Tip: drill and bolt the top holes first to relieve the assistant.

Fig. 1
When fitting the door to a planthouse (version with a dwarf wall), the door is fitted as above, but with
12s x 100mm long screws in the lower four positions. Drill the holes with a 7mm bit and mark the four
positions through onto the wall. Remove the door frame and open up the holes in the gable verticals so
that they will clear the plastic rawl plugs. Drill the walls with an 8mm masonry bit and insert the rawl
plugs. Replace the door and secure with the 12s x 100mm long screws. See Fig.2.

Fig. 2

page 18

With the adjacent

gable panes in
position, take a door
capping spacer and
position it against the
non-glazed side of a
gable door-vertical.
Secure the vertical full
capping using
No.8x12 self tapping
screws. Repeat at the
other side. Take the
737mm long half
capping and with the
leg on the non-glazed
side, screw to the
horizontal above the
door (for outward
opening doors this
will be full capping).
See Fig.3.

Fig. 3

Place the 1033x545 pane in the

top of the door and the 593x545
kick panel in the bottom of the
door. With the assistant
supporting them, position the
door vertical half capping and
secure with No.8x9.5 self tapping
screws. Position the upper and
lower half capping, then the
horizontal full capping and
secure with No.8x9.5 screws.
See Fig.4.

Fig. 4

page 19

Mk2 DOMESTIC STAGING

Section 1. Attached staging for the sides of glass-to-ground structures
Identify the left and right end brackets and place against inside of the gable frame using the dimension
shown in Fig.1. Mark through the two holes, spot and drill using a 6.5mm bit. Note; be careful to drill
only the inner face of the gable frame. Secure with M6x12 button head screws with the nut behind.

Fig. 1

Tip: when drilling, use a small pilot drill first and get someone to hold a scrap sheet of metal or plastic
behind to hole to prevent damage when the drill runs through.
Take the mid brackets and using the fixing position shown in Fig.1, secure to the screw slots on the inside of
the spans using 9.5mm long self tapping screws.
Note: if the floor of the greenhouse is set lower than the plinth top, the dimensions to the top of the end
and mid brackets must be increased by the difference.

page 20

Take two front/rear end

frames (one of each
hand) and an end
frame. Place the
corners together and
push a corner piece into
the recess on the
outside of the frame so
that the holes align.
Position M6 nuts into
the recess behind the
holes and secure with
M6x12 button head
screws. Repeat for the
other end frame.

Fig. 2

Take a front/rear mid frame and position end-to-end with the assembled end frame. Slide a butt strap into
the recess on the outside of the frame so that the holes align and secure with M6x12 button head screws.
On the other side use a mid leg (which is a T-section) to join the mid frame, again using M6x12 button
head screws. Continue along until all the sections are joined and the mid legs are in place. See Fig.2.
Note for staging with lath top tray; on structures with a length of six panes or more, the three holes in the
front/rear mid frames must be central to the entire run. Use the chart below in order to achieve this.
6 PANE END FRAME 743mm MID FRAME 1486mm MID FRAME 743mm MID FRAME END FRAME
7 PANE END FRAME 743mm MID FRAME 2229mm MID FRAME 743mm MID FRAME END FRAME
8 PANE END FRAME 1486mm MID FRAME 1486mm MID FRAME 1486mm MID FRAME END FRAME
9 PANE END FRAME 1486mm MID FRAME 2229mm MID FRAME 1486mm MID FRAME END FRAME
10 PANE END FRAME 2229mm MID FRAME 1486mm MID FRAME 2229mm MID FRAME END FRAME

Lift the staging assembly (with

help from others if needed) onto
the end and mid brackets which
were fitted earlier. Using a
spirit level and string, ensure
that the staging is even and level
by making adjustments to the
ground under the legs if
necessary. See Fig.3.
For the fitting of the top tray,
please refer to section 3.
Fig. 3

page 21

Section 2. Stand alone staging for gables and planthouse (walled) structures.

Take two front/rear

end frames (one of
each hand) and an end
frame. Place the
corners together and
push a corner leg
(angle section) into
the recess on the
outside of the frame
so that the holes
align. Position M6
nuts into the recess
behind the holes and
secure with M6x12
button head screws.
Repeat for the other
end frame.

Fig. 4

Take a front/rear mid frame and position end-to-end with the assembled end frame. Slide a mid leg (Tsection) into the recess on the outside of the frame so that the holes align and secure with M6x12 button
head screws. Repeat on the other side and continue along until all the sections are joined and the mid legs
are in place. See Fig.4.
Position a shelf
support against the
holes in the corner
legs, ensuring that the
side with lath holes is
lowermost. Secure
with M6x12 button
head screws. Repeat
at the other end.
Position the
remaining shelf
supports against the
holes in the mid legs
and, ensuring that the
sides with the lath
holes are uppermost,
secure with M6x12
button head screws.
See Fig.5.

Fig. 5

page 22

Take a shelving lath and slide M6x12 hexagon

head screws into the screw slot one for each
shelf support. Slide the screws along so that
they align with the holes in the support angles.
Lower the lath onto the support angles and
locate the screws through the shelving support
holes. Secure from underneath with an M6
nut and continue along until all the laths are in
place. See Fig.6 and Fig.7.

Fig. 7

Fig. 6

Note: for staging lengths of up to 5 panes, the shelving lath will be supplied in a single length, but for
structures of six panes or more, the shelf lath will be supplied in two or more lengths.
For structures of six panes length or more, establish where the laths join using the chart below. At each of
these positions fit a second shelf support on the opposite side of the mid leg. If placed in the correct order,
the shelf laths will join at the midpoint between the two back to back supports.

For the fitting of the top tray, please refer to section 3.

page 23

Section 3. Top tray.

Lath Type
The front/rear mid frame of the top tray should have three holes at the central position of the staging. To
enable the alignment of the last lath with the slot near the end of the front/rear end frame, the middle lath
must be positioned over either the centre hole or the off-centre holes, dependent upon the staging length.
See the chart below:
POSITION OF MID LATH
LENGTH

PLANTHOUSE (WALLED) STRUCTURE

GLASS-TO-GROUND STRUCTURE

3 PANE
4 PANE
5 PANE
6 PANE
7 PANE
8 PANE
9 PANE
10 PANE

OFF-CENTRE HOLE
CETNRE HOLE
CETNRE HOLE
OFF-CENTRE HOLE
CETNRE HOLE
CENTRE HOLE
OFF-CENTRE HOLE
OFF-CENTRE HOLE

CENTRE HOLE
OFF-CENTRE HOLE
OFF-CENTRE HOLE
CENTRE HOLE
OFF-CENTRE HOLE
OFF-CENTRE HOLE
CENTRE HOLE
CENTRE HOLE

Take a middle/end lath (these have a screw slot underneath as

opposed the intermediate laths which do not). Slide an
M6x12 hexagon head screw a little way in each end and drop
the lath into the frame with the screws locating into the
central holes. Secure the lath from underneath with M6 nuts.
See Fig.8.

Take two plastic spacing blocks and push them onto the
inside of the front/rear frame until they click into place
(ensure they are pushed tightly against the lath). Drop in an
intermediate lath (with no screw slot) and push tightly against
the spacing blocks. Continue along either side of the centre
lath until the last position is reached. Take two middle/end
laths and slide an M6x12 hexagon
head screw a little way in each end.
Drop into the staging frame,
locating the screws in the end
position slots. Slide the laths
tightly against the spacing blocks
and secure from underneath with
M6 nuts. See Fig.9.

Fig. 9

page 24

Fig.8

Flat or Corrugated Sheet type

For flat and corrugated sheet options cross members will be necessary for additional support. For flat sheet
trays the sheets must adjoin on the centre of the cross member. Position sheets in the trays and align the
cross members under the joints. Mark through the brackets at either end. Remove the sheets and cross
members and drill through the front/rear frames using a 7mm bit. Re-position the cross members and
secure with M6x16 button head screws. For corrugated sheets, position the cross members at
approximately equal distances apart. See Fig. 10.
Note: lengths up to 4 pane have 1 cross member, lengths up to 7 pane have 2 cross members and lengths up
to 10 panes have 5 cross members.

Fig. 10
Drop the flat sheet or corrugated sheets into position. The corrugated sheets are supplied over-length and
should be overlapped until the required size is obtained. See Fig. 11 and Fig. 12.

Fig. 11

Fig. 12

page 25

Section 4. Potting Shoe

For staging with a lath type top tray, place the shoe in
the desired location on top of the laths and mark
through the four holes in the base. Remove the shoe
and drill the four positions with a 3.5mm bit. Replace
the shoe and secure with No.8x9.5 self tapping
countersunk screws.
For staging with a flat sheet top tray, place the shoe on
top of the flat sheet. Securing with the self tapping
screws is optional.
For staging with a corrugated sheet type top tray, place
the shoe at the desired end of the staging and lap the
corrugations as close to the shoe as possible.
Section 4. Partitions
Stand-alone planthouse (walled structure) staging remains unaffected, but attached staging on a glass-toground structure needs to be shorter at the front glazed side of the partition. This is achieved by use of a
shorter 593mm front/rear end frame. Ensure that these are used at the partition end of the staging. Because
the short section has no radial/span to which it can be attached, an extra leg is supplied for use at the rear
corner.
Section 5. Abutting Structures
Glass-to-ground attached staging remains unaffected, but planthouse (walled structure) staging is increased
in length to fill the gap created by the lack of a wall at the abutting end. This is achieved by use of a longer
743mm front/rear end frame. Ensure that these are used at the abutting end. In order that the lengths of the
shelving laths remain consistent, the end tray at the abutting uses corner pieces and mid legs set in from the
end (as outlined in section 1).
Section 6. Gable Staging
Staging across the gable is always of the free-standing type, with a lower parcel shelf. The staging will fit
on one of three ways; across a full gable, next to one side of staging to create an L shape, and between two
sides of staging. The assembly method is the same as that shown in section 2, with the only difference
being that the front/rear frame is in one piece.

page 26

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page 27

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Fig. 2

page 28