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CBEA/CJAA VW Golf, Jetta, JSW TDI timing

belt removal-part 2

Rec ommend

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CBEA/CJAA VW Golf, Jetta, JSW TDI
timing belt removal-part 2

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C BEA/C JAA VW Golf, Jetta, JSW TDI timing belt removal-part 2

BACK TO PART 1: CBEA/CJAA timing belt

removal
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The service manual says to remove the motor mount before

setting the engine to TDC but I prefer to remove the mount
afterwards because the engine is more stable while mounted. If
the camshaft looks like the one on the right, turn the crankshaft
sprocket another 360 degrees. The crank sprocket rotates twice
every camshaft rotation.

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Manually rotate the crankshaft sprocket clockwise while gently

sliding the crankshaft lock T10050 forwards. Once you hit TDC,
the pin on the back of the crank lock will go into the hole on the
front flange. The arrow on the tool will point at the dash mark on
the crankshaft sprocket. The reason why you must turn the
engine clockwise is because there's a little play in the belt
system. Although it seems tight, the service manual says that
it's not reliable to set the crankshaft lock against the running
direction. If you pass the mark and the sprocket moves too far,
turn the engine counterclockwise at least far enough for any belt
slack to be removed (at least 1/8 turn) and try again in the
clockwise direction. When inserting the crankshaft lock, don't
push it down onto the crankshaft sprocket teeth, slide the teeth
of the tool into the teeth of the crankshaft sprocket. In other
words, don't push it down towards the ground, slide it in towards
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words, don't push it down towards the ground, slide it in towards

the engine. NOTE: the picture below-left shows a CJAA front
seal carrier. The CBEA front seal carrier around the index hole
protrudes out so T10050 will hang over the sprocket face like the
picture below-right (similar engine shown).

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WARNING: There were a few defective VW T10050 which had

the arrow to the right of the hole. The arrow should be just to
the left of the hole and should look exactly like the picture
below. Note how the crankshaft sprocket dash is above one of
the bolt holes, the pointer on the tool is directly above it, and to
the left of the locating pin hole. See this post in the forum for
more details.
If you're using a T10050 equivalent, note the bump on the
sprocket and screw in the included allen head bolts. CAUTION:
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sprocket and screw in the included allen head bolts. CAUTION:

only use the short bolts provided. If the bolts are too long they
can go through the sprocket and damage the crankshaft oil seal.
DO NOT overtighten the bolts, just lightly snug them up with a
wrench so that the tool is sitting flat on the sprocket face.
Insert the pin right before it's ready to go into the locating hole
on the flange. While turning the engine clockwise, gently press
on the pin until you're at TDC and it slides forward into the hole.
Make sure the pin isn't getting stuck on the metal before the
hole and preventing you from turning the engine over - this can
damage the aluminum flange or tool! After it goes in, double
check that the pin is in the hole.

The T10050 equivalent has 4 holes on the semi circle. 2 have

threads and are used for storing the bolts that come with the
tool as shown below. When using the tool, unscrew the bolts and
put them in the 2 holes without threads. The bolts pass through
the tool and screw into the crank sprocket as shown earlier. The
sliding/pushpin is a pretty tight fit so if it's sticking, use a single
drop of oil to lubricate it.

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drop of oil to lubricate it.

If possible, insert camshaft pin 3359. It goes through the

sprocket, through the camshaft hub, and into a hole in the
cylinder head. This is shown below for illustration only - there is
no need to remove the camshaft sprocket or hub. You need
counterhold tool VW T10051 to remove the big 18mm center bolt
so if you need to replace the camshaft seal, make sure to have
T10051 in advance. The pulley is keyed so it'll only go on one
way. Otherwise, don't loosen the big 18mm bolt. Do not use
pin 3359 to counterhold the cam hub or damage may result!
Make sure pin 3359 is not accidentally inserted in the empty
space below the hole! Use a mirror to verify the hole. The other
timing belt marks should help you verify its location.
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timing belt marks should help you verify its location.

If the pin won't go in but you've triple checked the hole positions
with a mirror and see that they're only a degree off, just rotate
the sprocket slightly after the timing belt is off and insert them
then. The manual doesn't say to insert them now but this is one
more layer of double checking that everything is right before
taking the timing belt off. This article is written for every level so
feel better that this check can thwart your hardest attempt to
screw up the engine! (Just kidding, you can still mess it up so
see the TOS Agreement for the full legal disclaimer).

Insert the other pin 3359 through the HPFP sprocket tab into the
head as shown above (black knob style 3359). If it's a few
degrees off and won't go in, it's completely acceptable as long
as the tab is at least over the hole. Once the belt is off, wiggle
the sprocket with a counterhold tool or a screwdriver wedged
against the bolt heads until the pin goes in. It may be off more
than the camshaft hole because according to the factory service
manual, a small deviation here is OK because of how the HPFP
works. On a common rail engine, fuel injection timing is no longer
determined by the timing belt, unlike older TDI engines

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determined by the timing belt, unlike older TDI engines

With both pins inserted, it should look like this:

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When inserted properly, the pins will stick out about 1cm out of
the sprocket face. The 3359 in the HPFP has a small hole visible
below. (Both VW and aftermarket styles 3359 shown).

Remove the sound absorber sheet around the oil pan (plastic torx
bolts).

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bolts).

You could loosen the tensioner and remove the belt without
removing the motor mount but since you have to change the
tensioner, the motor mount must come off. DO NOT remove the
motor mount until the engine is supported because the mount is
holding the engine up. The factory service manual says to use a
support from above. I found that my engine support bar wouldn't
fit without an extension because there was no space on the
fender for it. You can use this style of engine support if you
have an extension arm to move the support hook/chain towards
the front of the car about 5". (older engine shown but correct
body style)

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body style)

You can also make your own out of some sturdy wood and
chains. Just remember that if you drill into the wood the holes
weaken the wood. If you want to drill the main beam, using two
beams is suggested. Make sure to always have a backup!

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Put shackles or large+thick bolt/nut through chains and securely

hang them by the lift points. Lift point 1 is by an engine cover
snap. Lift point 2 is also by an engine cover snap. Lift point 3 is
by the accordion air intake hose. Release the spring clamp and
pull the hose off to expose the rear lift point.
The motor mount that has to be removed is by point 1 so at a
minimum, support the engine at point 1.
All 3 lift points would be safest although point 1 and 3 are
enough to keep the engine balanced. Here are closeups of each
lift point.
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lift point.

Because my support bar can only reach point 1, I use a jack from
below as a supplemental support. Never use a jack directly on
the aluminum oil pan and never use it as the primary method of
supporting the engine. Hydraulic jacks are for raising, not
holding, and can suddenly fail. Never put yourself in a position
where you could be injured if a hydraulic jack fails. You can also
cut a small groove in the top of the wood to hold the oil pan
securely.

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securely.

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Raise the engine slightly to get the engine's weight off the motor
mount bolts. This helps prevent stripping the aluminum motor
mount threads. I suggest a neutral position on the mount. If you
lift the engine about 1/5", or until you see it move up slightly,
the mount will be about neutral.
Remove the motor mount alignment plate (2x 13mm bolts), (2x
16mm) fender-mount bolts, and the (2x 18mm) mount-mount
bolts. Ignore the torque specs, those are for installation. Crack
loose all the bolts before removing them to help hold the mount
steady while you loosen the other bolts. Note the alignment of
the mount and the 18mm bolts. The 18mm bolts are in oval holes
that need to be aligned or else the engine will be crooked during
installation. Put a dab of paint around their heads to mark how
they sit in relation to the mount. Once you remove the bolts you
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they sit in relation to the mount. Once you remove the bolts you
should also be able to see some marks or dirt around the old bolt
heads. More details on this in part 2- installation.

Now remove the 3x 16mm mount-block horizontal bolts. Remove

bolt 3 from above and bolt 2 from below. Bolt 1 can be removed
through the access hole shown earlier. You should be able to
access it without removing the entire plastic wheel well liner.
You'll have to raise and lower the engine to get access to these
bolts. Remove the mount-block mount.
If you can't get it out, just work around it. Tap it upside down
on the ground to shake out any loose aluminum thread shavings
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on the ground to shake out any loose aluminum thread shavings

and inspect the threads for any previous damage. Ignore the
numbers, those are the tightening sequence. NOTE: if the mount
becomes damaged it's possible to replace it with the older style
mount. The hole for that mount uses the hole by the water pump
but has to go through the timing belt cover.

Use a counterhold bar to prevent the camshaft sprocket from

rotating while you loosen the 3x 13mm camshaft sprocket bolts.
Use a smaller counterhold bar to hold the HPFP sprocket while
you loosen its 3x 10mm 12pt bolts. You may notice the sprockets
rotate a little bit - this is normal. While you could loosen the
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rotate a little bit - this is normal. While you could loosen the
sprockets without counterholding them, it's good practice to do
so for a few reasons: the timing belt teeth shouldn't be used this
way, if you don't counterhold at the sprocket, T10050
counterholds against the aluminum flange, and because it doesn't
stress the old tensioner. If you have any intention of reusing the
belt or tensioner and are just replacing the belt not as routine
service, definitely counterhold. You must counterhold when
tightening those bolts so this serves as your reminder.
Loosen the 15mm tensioner nut and use a 6mm allen wrench to
rotate the tensioner counter-clockwise until you gently reach
the full loose limit. Insert the triangle pin t10015 or long handle
T10265 (different handle but same basic pin) or a 5mm allen
wrench into the tensioner, depending on your style of tensioner.
Refer to the video in part 2 for details on this. Rotate clockwise
until you hit another stop. The pointer arrow will move to the
right, past the gap. Lightly snug up the 15mm nut so that the
tensioner can't move. Remove the 13mm nut holding the lower
roller. This gives plenty of slack on the timing belt for removal.
Remove the belt. Remove the 13mm bolt holding the upper roller
and 16mm bolt holding the large roller. Remove the tensioner.
If you couldn't get the 3359 pins in earlier, insert them now. You
should only have to rotate the cam or HPFP sprockets a few
degrees and the pin holes should have been clearly visible. Again,
if it doesn't look like the earlier pictures, STOP and seek
professional advice because something is wrong.
End of removal.
For timing belt installation, see CJAA/CBEA timing belt part
3. The rest of the detailed installation procedure, pictures,
and checks are in the premium content forum, please join
our Audi and VW TDI forum and upgrade to a premium
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our Audi and VW TDI forum and upgrade to a premium

account to view! Here is how to upgrade your account:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/account/upgrades
Last Modified: Feb 10, 2014 at 7:00 PM (C ached)

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