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APPLES

+12 WAYS
When you transform an apple by cooking, you
may make it soft, fluffy, chewy, savory, sweet, or
creamythe potential is enormous. Yes, an apple
loses some juiciness and freshness when you
cook it, but as an ingredient its just as versatile
as a potato. (You probably know that in French
the potato is called pomme de terre, or apple of
theearth.)
This matrix explores cooked apples in various
forms, at least some of which (I hope) youll find
unexpected. All of the sweet versions are wonderful for either dessert or breakfast, while the savory

BAKED

ones make terrific side dishes for just about anything roasted or pan-cooked. All serve four.
Peeling is always optionalI personally like the
texture of apple skinsbut coring is not. If youre
slicing apples or cutting them into chunks, you
can core them the easy way: cut them into quarters, then take out the seeds with a paring knife. If
youre halving them, take out the core with a melon
baller and trim the rest with a paring knife. And if
you want to cut them into rings, dig into the flower
(the non-stem) end with a paring knife until you get
all the inedible parts out, or use an apple corer.

SAUTED

Praline

Shallot-Thyme

Halve and core 4 apples. Put cut side down in a greased baking pan. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon melted butter and 1 cup apple juice. Bake at 375F
for 20 minutes. Cook cup brown sugar, cup chopped pecans, and
3tablespoons butter until butter melts; add teaspoon vanilla. Turn
the apples, baste, then top with the praline; bake for 20 minutes.

Cook 4 thinly sliced shallots in cup olive oil over medium heat,
stirring, until soft and brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Add 1 pounds thinly
sliced apples and 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves; cover, turn the heat to
low, and cook for 10 minutes. Uncover, turn the heat to high, and cook,
stirring, for another 10 minutes.

Blue Cheese and Fig

Balsamic-Rosemary

Use port, brandy, or Riesling


instead of apple juice. Skip
the praline mixture; combine
4ounces crumbled blue cheese
and cup chopped dried figs
(or raisins). After turning and
basting, fill each cavity with
the cheese mixture instead of
topping with the praline.

Substitute olive oil for the butter


and cup balsamic vinegar for
cup of the apple juice. Skip the
praline mixture; instead, sprinkle
the apples with 1 tablespoon
chopped fresh rosemary after
turning and basting.

Brussels Sprouts
and Sage
Substitute 4 tablespoons butter
for the oil and skip the shallots
and thyme. When butter melts,
add the apples, pound
quartered Brussels sprouts,
and 1 tablespoon chopped sage;
cover and continue as above.
Garnish: Parmesan.

FRIED

258

Cranberry-Orange
Substitute 4 tablespoons butter
for the oil; skip shallots and
thyme. When the butter melts,
add the apples and 1 cup fresh
cranberries; cover and continue
as above. After uncovering, stir
in cup sugar and 1 tablespoon
orange zest; keep the heat at
medium-high.

ROASTED

Tempura with Honey

Moroccan Spiced

Heat 2 inches of neutral oil in a deep pan to 350F. Whisk together 2cups
ice water, 1 cups flour, and 3 egg yolks. Put another 1 cup flour in a
bowl. One piece at a time, dredge 1 pounds apples, cut into rings, in
the flour, then dip in the batter. Fry each piece until golden, 5 minutes or
less. Drain on paper towels. Garnish: drizzle of honey.

Heat the oven to 425F. Toss 2 pounds apples, cut into chunks, with
2tablespoons olive oil; spread on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast for
10minutes; add 1 tablespoon minced garlic, 1 tablespoon minced fresh
ginger, 1 teaspoon ground cumin, teaspoon ground coriander, and
teaspoon ground cinnamon; toss well to coat. Roast until tender,
stirring occasionally, another 10 to 15 minutes.

Cornmeal-Crusted

Fritters

Cheddar Gratin

Skip the batter, flour, and honey.


Put 2 cups buttermilk in a large
bowl; combine 1cup flour, 1cup
cornmeal, and teaspoon
cayenne in a separate bowl. Dip
the apple rings in buttermilk,
then dredge in the cornmeal
mixture. Fry as above.

Skip the tempura batter, flour,


and honey; grate the apples.
Beat together 1 large egg and
cup grated fontina cheese;
stir in the apples and cup
flour. Shape into walnut-size
balls and fry as above. Garnish:
lemon wedges.

Use melted butter for the oil; skip


the ginger and spices. Combine
cup grated Cheddar, cup
bread crumbs, and 2 additional
tablespoons melted butter.
When the apples are tender, top
with the Cheddar mixture; broil
until lightly browned.

FRUIT

Lemon and
Poppy Seed
Substitute melted butter for the
olive oil. Substitute cup sugar,
1 tablespoon poppy seeds, and
1 tablespoon lemon zest for the
garlic, ginger, and spices.

259

APPLES
+12 WAYS
When you transform an apple by cooking, you
may make it soft, fluffy, chewy, savory, sweet, or
creamythe potential is enormous. Yes, an apple
loses some juiciness and freshness when you
cook it, but as an ingredient its just as versatile
as a potato. (You probably know that in French
the potato is called pomme de terre, or apple of
theearth.)
This matrix explores cooked apples in various
forms, at least some of which (I hope) youll find
unexpected. All of the sweet versions are wonderful for either dessert or breakfast, while the savory

BAKED

ones make terrific side dishes for just about anything roasted or pan-cooked. All serve four.
Peeling is always optionalI personally like the
texture of apple skinsbut coring is not. If youre
slicing apples or cutting them into chunks, you
can core them the easy way: cut them into quarters, then take out the seeds with a paring knife. If
youre halving them, take out the core with a melon
baller and trim the rest with a paring knife. And if
you want to cut them into rings, dig into the flower
(the non-stem) end with a paring knife until you get
all the inedible parts out, or use an apple corer.

SAUTED

Praline

Shallot-Thyme

Halve and core 4 apples. Put cut side down in a greased baking pan. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon melted butter and 1 cup apple juice. Bake at 375F
for 20 minutes. Cook cup brown sugar, cup chopped pecans, and
3tablespoons butter until butter melts; add teaspoon vanilla. Turn
the apples, baste, then top with the praline; bake for 20 minutes.

Cook 4 thinly sliced shallots in cup olive oil over medium heat,
stirring, until soft and brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Add 1 pounds thinly
sliced apples and 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves; cover, turn the heat to
low, and cook for 10 minutes. Uncover, turn the heat to high, and cook,
stirring, for another 10 minutes.

Blue Cheese and Fig

Balsamic-Rosemary

Use port, brandy, or Riesling


instead of apple juice. Skip
the praline mixture; combine
4ounces crumbled blue cheese
and cup chopped dried figs
(or raisins). After turning and
basting, fill each cavity with
the cheese mixture instead of
topping with the praline.

Substitute olive oil for the butter


and cup balsamic vinegar for
cup of the apple juice. Skip the
praline mixture; instead, sprinkle
the apples with 1 tablespoon
chopped fresh rosemary after
turning and basting.

Brussels Sprouts
and Sage
Substitute 4 tablespoons butter
for the oil and skip the shallots
and thyme. When butter melts,
add the apples, pound
quartered Brussels sprouts,
and 1 tablespoon chopped sage;
cover and continue as above.
Garnish: Parmesan.

FRIED

258

Cranberry-Orange
Substitute 4 tablespoons butter
for the oil; skip shallots and
thyme. When the butter melts,
add the apples and 1 cup fresh
cranberries; cover and continue
as above. After uncovering, stir
in cup sugar and 1 tablespoon
orange zest; keep the heat at
medium-high.

ROASTED

Tempura with Honey

Moroccan Spiced

Heat 2 inches of neutral oil in a deep pan to 350F. Whisk together 2cups
ice water, 1 cups flour, and 3 egg yolks. Put another 1 cup flour in a
bowl. One piece at a time, dredge 1 pounds apples, cut into rings, in
the flour, then dip in the batter. Fry each piece until golden, 5 minutes or
less. Drain on paper towels. Garnish: drizzle of honey.

Heat the oven to 425F. Toss 2 pounds apples, cut into chunks, with
2tablespoons olive oil; spread on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast for
10minutes; add 1 tablespoon minced garlic, 1 tablespoon minced fresh
ginger, 1 teaspoon ground cumin, teaspoon ground coriander, and
teaspoon ground cinnamon; toss well to coat. Roast until tender,
stirring occasionally, another 10 to 15 minutes.

Cornmeal-Crusted

Fritters

Cheddar Gratin

Skip the batter, flour, and honey.


Put 2 cups buttermilk in a large
bowl; combine 1cup flour, 1cup
cornmeal, and teaspoon
cayenne in a separate bowl. Dip
the apple rings in buttermilk,
then dredge in the cornmeal
mixture. Fry as above.

Skip the tempura batter, flour,


and honey; grate the apples.
Beat together 1 large egg and
cup grated fontina cheese;
stir in the apples and cup
flour. Shape into walnut-size
balls and fry as above. Garnish:
lemon wedges.

Use melted butter for the oil; skip


the ginger and spices. Combine
cup grated Cheddar, cup
bread crumbs, and 2 additional
tablespoons melted butter.
When the apples are tender, top
with the Cheddar mixture; broil
until lightly browned.

FRUIT

Lemon and
Poppy Seed
Substitute melted butter for the
olive oil. Substitute cup sugar,
1 tablespoon poppy seeds, and
1 tablespoon lemon zest for the
garlic, ginger, and spices.

259

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