Advanced Fabric Structure

Contents
1. Backed Cloth
2. Double Cloth
3. Pile Fabric
4. Quality Particulars
Backed Cloth
It is a type compound structured cloth used in warmth clothing
having smooth surface appearance . Here we have to use either two
series of warp threads known as backed warp & face warp or two
series of weft threads known as back weft & face weft.
For back warp and weft we can use inferior or coarse threads
for warmth and for face warp or weft we can use fine yarns for
smooth surface
For construction we have to decide three factors
a. Face weave
b. Back weave
c. Face to Back ratio
Eg. F= 3/2 twill, B= twill , F:B= 1:1
X
X O X
X
X O X
X
X O X
X O X
X
X
X
X O
F B F B F B F B F B

Backed cloth can be mainly classified into two types:

a. Warp backed
b. Weft Backed
Warp Backed Cloth:- Here two series of warp threads are used one for
face and one for back.

Eg. F= 3/1 , B=1/3, F:B=2:1

X
X X O
X X
X
F F B

X X O
X
X
X
X X
X
X
X X
X X
X
O X
F F B F F B F

X
X O
X
F B

Important factors related to Warp Backed Cloth:a.

b.
c.
d.
e.
f.

Production increases due to reduction in number of picks .

More solid appearance .
Superior from texture point of view .
Drawing is costly and difficult .
More number of healds are required .
Separate beams are required .

g. Draft is difficult .
h. Manufacturing cost is high .
i. Increase in strength , warmth , aesthetic appeal etc .
Reversible Warp backed cloth:In this face and weaves are such arranged
that it gives the same appearance on both the sides . In this cloth the
ratio of face and back end is 1:1 or 2:2 or 3:3 & weaves for face and
back are just opposite.
Eg. F=4/1 , B= 1/4 , F:B = 1:1
X
X O X
X
X
X O X
X
X O X
X
X
X
X
X
X O
X
X
X O X
F B F B F B F B F B
Warp Backed Weft Wadded Design:In this design we add a new series of weft threads
to increase the weight of fabric as well as to increase the warmth of
fabric .
These wadded weft flows with the fabric having few
interlacements to support these threads .
Here we have to consider these parameters:a. Face Weave
b. Back Weave
c. F:B
d. F:W

Eg. Weft wadded warp backed cloth.

F= 3/1 , B =plain , F:B= 2:1 , F:W=2:1

B
F
F
B
F
F

O
X
X X /
O
X X
X
F F W

O
X X
X
O
X
X X /
F F W

Weft Backed Cloth

Here two series of weft threads are used one for face and one
for back. Normally for face we go for weft faced weave and for back
we go for warp face weave.

Eg. F= 3/1 , B = 1/3 , F:B = 1:1

B
F
B
F
B
F
B
F

O
X X X
O
X X
X
O
X
X X
O
X X X

Important factors related to weft backed cloth:a.

b.
c.
d.
e.
f.

Cheaper threads can be used

Easier and cheaper drawing
Less number of heald frames are required
Single beam is required
Low cost of production
Multiple weft insertion system is required

Double Cloth
It is a multilayered fabric , it increases the thermal
insulation with fine smart surface appearance on both sides , we can
have two different appearance on both the sides of fabric by using
two types of weaves for each side .
Two series of both warp and weft are used which are for face
and back for both warp and weft . here face warp interacts only with
face weft and same for the back warp and weft until stitching has to
be done .

On the basis of stitching Double Cloth can be divided into five types:a. Self Stitched Double Cloth:- These fabric contain only two
series of threads in both direction and stitching of face cloth
layer to back layer cloth is accomplished by occasionally
dropping a face pick or by lifting a back pick or by utilizing
both.

Centre Stitched double cloth :- In these type of fabric a third series of

thread is introduced either in warp or weft direction whose entire
function is to stitch face and back fabric by regularly oscillating at a
regular interval .

Double Cloth stitched by thread interchange:- These fabric is stitches

by like the first one but they are distinguished by the fact that the
stitching is achieved by frequent and continuous interchange of
threads element at regular interval.

Double Cloth stitched by cloth interchange :- In these type of fabric

the complete cloth layers are made to interchange their places for
stitching of face and back fabric.

Alternate single ply and double ply construction :- In these fabric

constituent threads components are occasionally are merged together
into a heavily set single cloth and occasionally are separated into
distinct layers to form figure areas of open double cloth on the firm
single cloth ground.

Purpose of stitching:-If a cloth is not soundly stitched, the two fabrics

are liable to become separated from each other during wear,
particularly if the back fabric is heavier than the face . Diversity of
design and coloring can be applied to both of a double cloth , and a
more perfect structure is obtained than in the case of fancy cloths or
backed cloths .

Weft
Self Stitched
Cloth

Wadded Double Cloth

Same as wadded backed cloth here we are introducing third
type of thread either in warp or weft or both for imparting warmth
properties and bulk in fabric , we can use inferior quality of thread
for compromising with cost as well as we can use coarser threads for
enhancing the warmth properties of fabric .
In this type of fabric we have to decide F:B:W
ratio , wadded threads can be interlaced with either warp or weft or
both for supporting these threads .
These wadded threads can be interlaced in such a way that it
will neither visible on upper or lower side of double cloth thats why
we can inferior threads for wadded threads .

Application of Double Cloth

Double cloth is used in over coating , blankets , brocade ,
etc . Because these fabric are made by interweaving two physically
discrete fabrics at various points in the pattern by bringing warp and
fill yarns from each through the other to be worked on the opposite
face of the compound fabric.
Treble Cloth
These type of fabric are more likely as double cloth here we are
three series of warp and three series of weft threads to form three
consecutive layer of fabric one over other same as double cloth we
have to stitch layers of these fabric with each other to support them .
The layer which is formed in between of two outer fabric is not
visible .
This same concept can be used for more number of layers of
fabric to be produced simultaneously .

Pile Fabric
In pile or plush fabric a proportion of threads termed pile
threads projects and form a foundation texture and form a pile on
surface . In some classes of cloth these pile threads are not cut and
the surface of fabric contains loops of protruding threads , some of
these fabric gives closely resemblances of fur .
These pile threads can be introduced from the warp as well as
from the weft .
for construction of pile fabric we have o decide some
parameters :a. Ground Weave ( generally basic weave )
b. Pile weave ( weaves having floats )
c. Ground threads to pile threads ratio ( denoted by G:P )
In pile fabrics ground weaves taken are either plain or twill to
give strength to the fabric structure.
Pile threads are generally inserted in alternate manner.
Factors affecting Pile structure :a. Length of Pile depends on cover factor.
b. Density of pile depends on thickness of weft.
c. Density of pile depend on number of cuts and interlacements
d. Length of pile depends on length of float made by pile threads
on fabric.
e. Fastness of pile depends on weave of pile.
Pile Weave can be classified into many types

a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
f.

Weft Pile
Plain Back Velveteen
Fast Back Velveteen
Twill Back Velveteen
Weft Plushes
Corded Velveteen
Figured Velveteen

a.
b.
c.
d.
e.

Warp Pile
Aid to Wire
Reversible warp pile
Warp Brussels
Figured pile with different colors
Warp pile made from double cloth

f. Terry Pile
Weft Pile
This type of fabric is composed of only one series of warp
threads , but weft threads so are in two series , namely ground and
pile . The ground picks interweave frequently with the warp so as to
form a firm foundation , while the pile picks or weft float somewhat
loosely on the surface and , subsequently form the pile or nap .

Warp Pile
In this type of pile structure only one kind of weft is essential
, but two series of warp threads namely ground and pile threads are
required .
The cloth produced are of two kinds looped pile , to which the
terms terry , bounce ,frise are applied and another is cut pile which is
termed as velvet .

Pile fabrics made by Aid to wire :- Here wires of definite dimension

are inserted at regular interval for formation of pile . These wires
are insearted during beat-up of fabric then after weaving of fabric
these wires are taken out to free the loops .

Terry pile is formed by differential action in beat up of fabric .

Here the fabric during manufacturing after picking is done for a
number of threads is loosely beat up so that it does not touches the
fell of cloth and after this fast beat up is done so that warp threads
forms loop on the surface of fabric .

Applications of Pile Fabrics :Pile fabrics are mostly used for

hangings, chair coverings , carpets , dresses , towels , overcoats etc.
Fabrics Quality Particulars :These are the some of parameters of basic fabrics and these
parameters have a particular values for the fabrics so they can be
successfully applied for their end uses.
Parameters are:a. Weave used
b. EPI
c. PPI
d. Count
e. GSM ( g/mt sq )
f. Material
g. Coverfactor (k)
h. Width of fabric
Some of fabrics with their quality particular are given below:Afgalaine or Afgahalaine:- Plain Weave, made of woolen yarns, 17epi
17ppi, 78 tex warp and 78 weft tex , 285 g/m sq , K=15.0+15.0 , width
1.52 mt
Brocade :- single textured , by floating warp or weft or both

Cambric :- light weight , closely woven, 35X35 , 10.0X 7.4 tex ,

Egyptian Cotton , 74 g/m sq K= 10.0+9.5, width 96 cm
Canvas:- Plain Weave ,Made of cotton, flax , hemp, jute , 200-2000
g/m sq
Chiffon:- made of silk yarns, Plain Weave also made from man made
fibers
Flannel :- made of woolen yarns , plain or twill weave , soft handle
Haircord :- fine rib lines , 28X26, 18X21 tex
Limbric :- medium wt , closely woven, plain weave cotton ,
27X40,12X16 tex , 100 g/m sq K= 9.35+16.0
Linen:- made of flax spun yarns , soft and smooth surface
Moirette:- Plain weave , 44X25, 20/2 X 30/2 tex , K= 19.7+13.7
Muslin:- Plain Weave , 4-9 X 4-8 tex , 68 g / m sq
Organdie :- Plain Weave , silk , yarns having twist in different
direction
Poplin:- Plain weave , cotton , weft rib , 48X24 , 16X18 tex ,
K=19.2X10.2
Cassimere :- 2/2 twill weave , worsted warp, woolen weft ,smooth face
Ceylonette :- made of cotton yarns 22X18 , 27X18 , 27X42 tex , 155
b/msq , K= 14.0+ 11.7
Denim:- 3/1 wapr face twill , 32X19 , 45X54 tex ,
K=21.5+14.0

270 g /m sq ,

Gaberdine:- wapr face, epi> ppi , 2/1 or 2/2 twill

Georgette:- twill or plain weave with combination of 2 S twist yarns
and 2 Z twist yarns both in warp and weft

Jean:- 2/1 twill warp faced , 35X24 , 35X24 , 32X21 tex cotton yarns ,
K= 19.8X11.0
Regina:- 2/1 twill good quality cotton, 57X28 , 7X10 tex , 100 g/m sq
Batiste :- Satin Weave , made of flax fibre , soft and fine K= 9.0-13.0 ,
100 g/m sq
Damask :- cotton , figured fabric , warp satin or weft satin
Diaper :- 5 end sateen , made on damask principle
Satin:- heavy , smooth , continious filament silk or man made ,
130X38, 67X44 d tex ,K= 33.6X7.6 , 136 g/msq , 8 end satin
References :Advanced textile design by William Watson
Submitted By :Rahul Chandrakar