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A Transistor Driven Flyback Transformer Page

Email: sixmhz@yahoo.com

Introduction

A very simple road to your basic high voltage generator is the transistor driven
flyback transformer. This circuit uses a common flyback transformer (you
probably have more than one in your house right now) to boost typical battery
voltages up to the multi-kilovolt range. It will make a several thousand-degree
continuous 2 cm plasma arc. This page is designed to help you get yours working
as quickly and painlessly as possible.
The Circuit

As you can see this is a VERY simple circuit and when you have all the parts, it
takes only a few moments to get working.
The Flyback Transformer

The main component of the system is the ferrite core flyback transformer.
Flyback transformers can be found in any equipment with a Cathode Ray Tube
(CRT) like televisions or computer monitors. There are many types of flybacks
out there. The really old ones have disc shaped secondarys, removable primarys,
no rectification and look like this:

Most of the ones you will find today will have a rectified output (DC) and the
primary windings will not be removable as they are potted in with some kind of
polymer. Any flyback will work in this circuit, but depending on the flyback, the
high voltage output may be used for some applications and not others. For
example, if you have an old flyback without rectified output or have removed the
rectifier in a new flyback, the high voltage output will be radio frequency AC and
will work for a plasma globe whereas a rectified output flyback will not.
Although with an unrectified flyback you can drive a plasma globe, you cannot
charge capacitors. But, with a rectified output you can charge capacitors. The
flyback with the highest output voltage and longest arc that I have ever seen
comes from large modern TV's. I have found two like this and bought another
like it on ebay. I'm not sure why it has a green spot painted on it but it is a very
distinguishing mark for a great flyback.

Windings
If you have an old flyback with removable windings, don't be in such a hurry to
remove them and wind you own. If there are at least two sets of coils, you can
use the original windings with no problems. It would probably work even
BETTER than winding your own coils (I've never figured out why everyone says
to wind your own???). If you don't have an old flyback and your windings are
potted inside the flyback don't worry, cause that's where you want them too. I
would actually prefer a flyback with the windings potted inside so they don't get
damaged.
Locating the Coils and Coil Polarity
The flyback circuit diagram calls for two sets of coils: a primary coil and a
feedback coil. The turn ratio is really not that critical so usually ANY two coils in
the flyback primary will work. Locate two sets of coils on the horse-shoe-

like configured pins by testing the flyback pins for continuity. Often times there
are more than two pins connected to a single coil in the transformer. You will
need to try the different positions to see which configuration works better for
your application. After you have located two independent sets of coils on your
flyback, hook them up to the circuit with any polarity. If you turn on the power
any you don't hear a whine or hum, try reversing the polarity (switch the leads) of
ONE of the coils. If nothing now, reverse the polarity of the other coil. If nothing
now, reverse the polarity on the first one you switched again. So the take home
message is trial and error. Flybacks can be very picky as to coil polarity because
some of them have a rectifier built in them. So try each configuration (8 of them
with two sets of coils) until it whines (Occasionally I'll find one that doesn't wine
but VERY rarely). Any two sets of coils in a potted flyback should work, so don't
try new coils until you're sure you've exhausted all possible combinations.
The high voltage will come out of the fat wire from the top of the flyback-usually
connected to the CRT with a suction cup. You will not be able to locate the high
voltage return pin with a multimeter. The only way to do it is to bring the high
voltage line down to the pins and whichever one it arcs like mad to is the one yer
looking for. Try to stay away from arcing to any of the pins used for coils. High
voltage is not so good for your transistor or power supply.
Transistors

The transistor is the little guy who does all the work in this
circuit. This dude gets real hot, so you should put a heat sink on
him if you use him for more than a couple seconds. Transistor
selection is VERY important especially if you are using a newer
flyback or any non-disc shaped secondary. Typically the circuit
calls for the 2N3055 power transistor. Every person that uses
this transistor says that you can't use a new flyback because
they don't work. Well they're right, but for the wrong reason. It's
not the flyback that doesn't work, it's the transistor. The 2N3055
works well for the older disc-shaped flybacks but doesn't do jack
for the new ones. A thousand volts or so is all you'll get out of a
new flyback with a 2N3055. Well then Greg, what the hell am I
supposed to do? I'll tell ya's what to do. Ere's a list of transistors
I've tried on new flybacks and how they work:
Transistor NPN/PNP Vce (Collector-Emitter Voltage) Ic (Collector Current)
2N3055 NPN 60V 15A Doesn't work worth jack

2N3773 NPN 140V 16A Works OK, typical output of 7,000V


2N5038 NPN 150V 20A One worked, for a second or two
NTE2308 NPN 400V 12A Worked great for 20 seconds, then
got fried
NTE152 NPN 60V 7A Fried instantly
NTE284 NPN 180V 16A Works great, typical output of
18,000V
TIP120 NPN 60V 5A Fried instantly
TIP31 NPN 40V 3A Fried instantly
MJ21194 NPN 250V 16A Fried instantly
MJ15022 NPN 200V 16A Fried instantly
MJ15024 NPN 250V 16A Fried instantly
MJl1302A PNP 200V 15A Fried instantly
KSE13009 NPN 300V 12A From Fairchild, works grrrrreat!!!
MJE13009 NPN 400V 12A from ON Semiconductors, seems
to work well so far (probably the same "made in mexico"
transistor as KSE13009).
As you can see, only certain transistors work well with the new flybacks as most
of them fry very quickly and cost you dollars :< I would recommend only two
transistors, the NTE284, that costs about 10 bucks and the KSE13009 from
fairchild. The KSE13009 is a NEW find for me that works very well and only
costs 81 cents!!! You can get the KSE13009 from the fairchild semiconductors
website. This transistor works well for the new flybacks, but if you wind your
own coils it will burn out quickly.

Power Supply

When it comes to operating voltage this circuit doesn't really


care. You can run it as low as 5V or as high as 50 with no
modifications to the circuit. I have noticed that increasing
voltage does not increase the current linearly as one would
expect. This circuit seems to have a maximum current usage
around 3 Amps or so, possibly due to inductor action in the
transformer primary which actually limits the current rather than
resistance. Also the output voltage seems fairly independent of
the input voltage, which is also strange to me. If any one has
any ideas I would like to hear them!
Circuit Operation-So you say...

I have heard and it seems very plausible to me (I am no electrical engineer) that


the circuit works in the following manner: passing a current through the transistor
to the main set of coil windings induces a field on the ferrite core which also
induces a current in the feedback winding. The feedback current signals the
transistor to stop conducting and the field on the ferrite core collapses, causing a
high voltage pulse on the output side. After the feedback signal collapses, the
transistor again conducts current to the primary windings.
This seems all nice and good, but it doesn't explain why some transistors work
well and some don't. The transistors should only be switching the current at a
fixed voltage off and on so as long as the transistor is fast enough, the output
should be the same for every transistor. This is clearly not the case in my mind.
In my experience, the output voltage is strictly dependent on the individual
transistor, not even the specifications for the transistor. Many transistors are
getting fried for no apparent reason and almost instantly. This circuit draws only
2-3 amps but transistors rated for 16 Amps get cooked like biscuits in a lava bath.
So what's really going on with this circuit??
Ok, so now I think I have a *reasonable* explanation of what is happening with
this flyback circuitry. Initially, the circuit operates as the simple feedback system.
The transistor conducts, induces a voltage on the feedback coil and then stops
conducting. When the transistor stops conducting, the induction in the primary
coil causes the voltage to go up, way way up. So way way up that the voltage
exceeds the breakdown voltage of the Vce on the transistor. This high voltage
spike is now allowed to "escape" through the transistor and is brought back to
nominal voltages. This high voltage spike I think is what is causing the high
voltage output, not the nominal 12V input. The HV spike is also causing the

transistors to get fried as their Vce voltage is being greatly exceeded. So the
transistors that work well apparently are very "robust" and are handling this rapid
breakdown of the Vce and are recovering with no permanent damage to the
transistor. This is why only a few transistors work for this application. So to get a
*nice* spark you your transistor needs to have a high Vce voltage, AND it needs
to be special to not get fried by repeated over voltages.
Fun with Flybacks!
Radio Frequency Plasma Globe

To make a plasma globe you really need two things. A radio frequency (RF) high
voltage power supply and a partially evacuated tube with some type of cool gas
in it. The power supply I use is a flyback transformer taken from an old Mac
computer monitor that was laying outside the chemistry building. The flyback
was old enough that the rectifier "stick" stuck out of the side of the secondary
windings and I was able to remove it with a hack-saw. The circuit is driven by a
2N3773 transistor making the voltage adequate for this application. The power
supply I use is a large lab type (I found it in the trash) with four channels; I am
using the 12VDC output for this project. The globe consists of a 25 Watt clear
light bulb and lamp I bought at Goodwill for like two (2) bucks. The high voltage
output is attached to the AC cord on the lamp and the high voltage return (minus
side) is attached to ground (-DC). It puts out enough voltage so that when I put
my hand close to the bulb the plasma goes to your fingers. With such small
current at this voltage you can even touch the glass with only a tingling sensation
to your fingers (no permanent damage) but don't bet your life on it. Here are
photos of my plasma globe driver and the globe in action. You can also check out
my plasma globe page here.

High Voltage Capacitor Charger

A cool use for flybacks with rectified outputs is charging high voltage capacitors.
Now you can store up a nice high voltage charge on some caps and put them to
use. You could use them in a coil gun or maybe even to shrink some quarters!
High Voltage/Current Power Supply for Tesla Coil

I am trying to see if I can push enough current into this flyback circuit to use as a
tesla coil power supply. I intend to keep pushing a flyback until the coils melt or
it explodes. So I've got myself a VARIAC now and I've wired up 6 2N3773
transistors in parallel with a HUGE heat sink. Hopefully soon I can get a flyback
to explode!
Ignition System for Potato Gun

Need I say more?


Voltage Multiplication

You can double or triple or whatever to your flyback with a voltage multiplier.
The multipliers only work on flybacks with unrectified outputs. I've heard that
multipliers can be found in some televisions but I've never ever found one :<
Once there was an auction for 5 of them on ebay but some bastard outbid me.
Since you'll probably never find one, you can make your own easily if you can
find the parts. Diodes and capacitors that can withstand 20 kV are kind of hard to
come by. Here's the schematic for the voltage multiplier, which will work for any
AC power.

FUENTE VARIABLE

Esta fuente
de voltaje variable de
doble
polaridad permite
disponer
de
dos salidas de voltaje independientes, una positiva y otra negativa con un mximo de amplitud
de -15 voltios y + 15 voltios, con una corriente mxima de 1.5 amperios.
Esta fuente de alimentacin es ideal para alimentar circuitos con doble polaridad como algunos
amplificadores de audio y aplicaciones con amplificadores operacionales, entre otros.

Funcionamiento de la fuente de voltaje variable de doble polaridad


Esta fuente utiliza el regulador variable de voltaje LM317 para la salida de voltaje positivo (de
1.2 a 15 voltios) y el reguladorvariable de voltaje LM337 para la salida de voltaje negativo (de
-1.2 a -15 voltios). Para variar el voltaje de salida se utilizan dos potencimetros. Ver el
diagrama.
Hay que recordar que estos reguladores tienen la limitacin de no poder entregar voltaje igual o
inferior a 1.2 voltios (en el caso de la salida de voltaje positivo) y -1.2 voltios (en el vaso de
la salida de voltaje negativo). Para solventar este problema se pueden colocar, en serie con
la salida de cada regulador, dos diodos rectificadores (por ejemplo el 1N4003), que darn una
cada de voltajede: 0.6V + 0.6V = 1.2V.
Esto causar que la salida final est siempre disminuida en este voltaje, pero para la mayora de
las aplicaciones no es ningn inconveniente.
Los condensadores / capacitores electrolticos: C1, C2, C3, C4 son los filtros que aplanan la onda
de salida del puente de diodos, antes de que entre en cada regulador. Los condensadores C5,
C6, C7 y C8 se utilizan para mejorar la respuesta transitoria.

Muy importante es que cada regulador cuente con un disipador de calor, mientras ms grande
mejor. Si su utilizacin es muy constante se le puede colocar un ventilador para enfriar los
disipadores, pero normalmente esto no es necesario.

Lista de componentes de la fuente


-

2
3
2
4
2
1
1
1
2
1
1

resistencias: R3=R4: 240 ohmios / watt


potencimetros: R1=R2: 5K
capacitores electrolticos: C1=C2: 2200uF / 35 voltios o ms
capacitores electrolticos: C3=C4=C5=C6: 1uF / 35 voltios o ms
capacitores electrolticos: C7=C8: 100uF / 35 voltios o ms
puente de diodos (DB1) de 2 amperios
regulador de voltaje positivo (U1): LM317
regulador de voltaje negativo (U2): LM337
disipadores de calor
interruptor para colocar en el primario del transformador
transformador, (T1) con derivacin central, de 110=220VAC a 30VAC, 2 amperios

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