CNC P

Page Numbering Note.
This PDF package contains the plans for

five machines.
Each of the plans was written to stand
alone, and each has its own table of contents.
The page numbering that is printed on
the bottom of the pages for each set of
plans is consistent with its own table of
contents.
The pages shown in the thumbnails are
numbered
consecutively from 1 to 505.
The thumbnail page numbers for the
plans follow.
24x48 2
25x25 150
13x13 261
10x9 308
18x24 396
CNC Router Plans

Plans for a Rack and Pinion, and Leadscrew Drive
CNC Router Table
David Steele
NOTICE: That which makes CNC machines useful also makes

them dangerous; they move without direct human control.
A CNC table MUST have an easily accessible Emergency Stop
button. The table must be in a safe location where it is
inaccessible to children and unauthorized users; these are not
toys, even a small machine can inflict serious injury.
You, the user of these plans, assume all liability and
responsibility for the construction process, and for the product
you create.
Do not use the plans if these conditions of use are unacceptable
to you.
Copyright 2011 David K. Steele

David Steele is the copyright owner of these plans. In
consideration for payment, David Steele grants a licence to use
the plans for the purpose of building a machine for personal use.
The licence is not assignable.
Table of Contents
Rack and Pinion, and Leadscrew Table
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
This Manual . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Background . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Sequence Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Table Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
X Axis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Y Gantry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Z Carriage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
X Axis Construction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Table Frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Table Legs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Rack Legs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Leadscrew Legs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Pipe Supports Boards . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Table Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Pipe Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Rails Ties Installation . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Sequence Note . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Gantry Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Sequence Note . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Gantry Beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Rack for Y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Rack Brackets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Install Rack Brackets . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Y Pipe Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Install Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Tighten Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Rack Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Sequence Note . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Y Bearing Trucks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Measure Y Trucks . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Gantry End Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Left End, X Pinion, Y Leadscrew . . 24
Right End, X Pinion, Y Leadscrew . 25
Ends, X and Y Rack and Pinion . . . 26
Left End, X and Y Leadscrew . . . . . 27
Right End, X and Y Leadscrew . . . . 28
Stepper Dimensions . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Gantry Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Y Leadscrew Bearing Block . . . . . . 29
Belt Tensioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
X Rack Stepper Mount . . . . . . . . . . 30
X Bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Angle Bearing Support . . . . . . . . . . 32
120 Flat Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Carriage Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Sides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Back Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Top Plate, Y Leadscrew . . . . . . . . .
Top Plate, Y Rack and Pinion . . . . .
Y Leadnut Block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Z Stepper Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Z Bottom Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Attach Sides to Back . . . . . . . . . . . .
Studs in Back Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stud Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Z Side Braces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Braces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Carriage Bolts . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Bearing Trucks . . . . . . . . . . .
Z Leadscrew Bearing . . . . . . . . . . .
Z Leadscrew Bracket . . . . . . . . . . . .
Z Leadscrew Bearing Block . . . . . . .
Sequence Note . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rack and Pinion Top Plate . . . . . . .
Pinion Bearing Block . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pinion Axle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Assembly of Pinion . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Z Rails Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Z Bearing Trucks . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Determine Rail Length . . . . . . . . . . .
Leadnut Travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rail and Bearing Spacing . . . . . . . .
Cut and Drill Pipes . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cross Ties Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tie Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Remove Tie Corners . . . . . . . . . . . .
Hole Placement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Attach Ties to Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Drill Holes in Ties . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Leadnut Cross Tie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Leadnut Support Bar . . . . . . . . . . . .
Attach Leadnut Tie to Rails . . . . . . .
Spindle Mount Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Spindle Cradles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Vertical Flat Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Flat Bar Cross Tie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Router Band Straps . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Router Mount Assembly . . . . . . . . .
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Tension Rods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tension Rod Extensions . . . . . . . . .
Adjust Z Tension Rods . . . . . . . . . .
Sequence Note . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Z Leadscrew, Overview . . . . . . . . . .
Z Leadscrew Installation . . . . . . . . .
Sequence Review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Gantry Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Attach Gantry to Rails . . . . . . . . . . .
Attach End Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Attach X Pinion Components . . . . . .
Attach X Stepper Mount . . . . . . . . .
Install X Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Attach Carriage to Gantry . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Position Carriage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rack and Pinion Y Axis . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Y Pinion Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install 36 Tooth Pulley . . . . . . . . . .
Tension Pinion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Y Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Idler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Design Notes for Pinion . . . . . . . . . .
Leadscrew Y Axis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Bearing Block . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Y Leadscrew . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Y Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Idler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Z Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Sequence Review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Assemble Leadscrew X Axis . . . . . . . . . . . .
Front Leadscrew Bearings . . . . . . . .
Back Leadscrew Bearings . . . . . . . .
Front Bearing Blocks . . . . . . . . . . . .
Anti-Whip Bearing Blocks . . . . . . . .
X End Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
One Stepper One Long Belt . . . . . . . . . . .
Long Belt End Plate . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stepper Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Idler for Long Belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Belt and Stepper . . . . . . . . . .
One Stepper with Two Belts . . . . . . . . . . .
Stepper Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
End Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Belt and Stepper . . . . . . . . . .
Two Slaved Steppers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stepper Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
End Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Belts and Steppers . . . . . . . .
Install All End Plates . . . . . . . . . . . .
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X Leadscrew Sequence Note . . . . . . 95

X Leadnut Brackets . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
Cut X Leadscrew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
Install Leadscrews . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
Install Leadnut Brackets . . . . . . . . . 98
Install X Stepper and Belts . . . . . . . 99
Sequence Review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
Assemble Rack X Axis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Racks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Rack Boards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
Rack Blocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
Install Rack Blocks . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
Install X Racks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
Steppers, Leadscrews and Racks . . . . . . . . 104
Steppers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Micro-Stepping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Leadscrews TPI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
Racks and Pinions . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
Determining Steps Per Inch, Screw 107
Determining Steps Per Inch, Rack . 108
Tuning Leadscrews . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
Drive System Comparisons . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
Material and Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
Bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
Leadscrews . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
Belts and Pulleys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
Racks and Pinions . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
Table Sizing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
Lengthening X Rack . . . . . . . . . . . 115
X Leadscrews . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
Length of Gantry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
Widening X Axis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Determining Length, One Belt . . . . 119
Determining Length, Two Belts . . . 119
Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
Plywood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
Plastic Bearing Blocks . . . . . . . . . . 121
Stepper Mounts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
Suppliers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
Parts Lists . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
X Axis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
Y Axis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
Z Axis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
Parts By Machine . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
Pulleys Belts, Bearings, Racks . . . . 131
Aluminum Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Templates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
0
Introduction
This Manual
This set of plans is intended to be used as a guide
that can be followed step by step, and as a set of
ideas that can be used to build a custom machine.
Those who want to build a machine that is virtually
identical to the prototypes can follow the directions
as they are presented. Those who are building a
custom machine will find practical information that
is based on actual working equipment.
The manual is written for a wooden machine;
however, a version with an aluminum gantry and
carriage has been tested, and the minor
modifications required are addressed on page 132.
Further information regarding components, prices
and performance is also in the last pages of this
manual. Those sections should be reviewed before
ordering any parts.
Not all materials will be the same size for all
builders; this is taken into consideration in the
plans, and directions are given to address the
necessary sequencing. Therefore, before beginning
work, the manual should be previewed.
The individual parts are addressed in their own
sections. Read through each section before
beginning work on each component.
Background
These machines were designed to be inexpensive,
simple to assemble and accurate for the cost. This
was accomplished by using lumber yard materials
with off the shelf drive components.
The machines use standard sizes efficiently. The
gantry is sized for a 36 inch leadscrew or pinion
axle. The X length uses a 4 foot rack and 5 foot
pipes. These give an X travel of 4 feet and Y travel
over 2 feet.
There are always trade-offs when balancing cost
against quality. This machine was designed to
allow flexibility in the choices of components so
builders can customize the table to fit different

budgets and needs.
The machine was kept simple by combining the
functions of the individual pieces. This lowers the
parts count which also simplifies final tuning. The
parts are designed to allow for offsets so absolute
precision during drilling and cutting is not critical.
The components were also designed on a 1/16 or
1/8 inch grid so the dimensions would be easier to
measure.
The accuracy and speed of the machine are largely
determined by the quality and type of drive
components. The Drive System Comparison Chart
on page 112 lists some of the options and their
performance. This section should be reviewed
before deciding on the style of machine, and before
purchasing parts.
Sequence Notes
The X axis is addressed first because the other
axes components have to be in place on the X axis
before they can be completely assembled.
However, it is possible to make, but not assemble,
most of the individual components for all axes
before building the X axis.
Fabricating and partially assembling the parts for
the Y and Z axes beforehand may work well when
shop space is at a premium and the table is
expected to be a long term project.
The width of the X axis has to match the length of
the gantry, and the height of the Z carriage must
match the height of the gantry. Therefore, deciding
on the size of the gantry is a logical starting place
for building a custom sized machine. The Table
Sizing section on page 115 addresses the
relationships between these parts.
Work on the machine can begin with the gantry
beam on page 17. Once its height is determined, the
Z carriage can be built. However, as just
mentioned, the X axis is addressed first in this
manual because the other two axes cannot be
completely assembled without being on the X.
Introduction 5
Tools
The machine was designed to be built using the
tools found in a modest home shop. Of course the
larger the tool inventory, the easier construction
will be; however, a fully equipped wood shop is
unnecessary.
Tools required include:
Power saw for wood
Small hand saw, coping, miter or keyhole etc.
Hack saw
Power drill
Drill bits: A basic 1/16 to inch at 1/64 inch set
Forstner bits, to 1-1/8 inch
1-1/2 inch hole saw
Taps #8-32, #10-24, 1/4-20, and 5/16-18
Screwdrivers: Phillips and flat
Wrenches: Basic 3/8 to 3/4 inch set of box
wrenches
Hex- Allen- wrenches
Small socket wrenches or nut drivers
Combination square
Measuring tape
Vise
Center punch
File
Hammer
Tools that are not required but will be helpful
include:
Jig or band saw
Table saw
Arm saw or chop saw
Drill press
Power sander: belt, disk or orbital
Power metal saw: stationary or hand held
5/16 inch brad point bit. (This bit removes the need
for many pilot holes)
The machine was designed around standard sized
lumber and hardware. This reduces the need for
ripping or planing the stock to size.
The metal components of the wooden version, with
the exception of the pipes and leadscrews, are made
of thin aluminum; all can be cut with a hack saw.
The wood requires very few long cuts; so few that

most could be done at the place of purchase. The
short cross-cuts could then be done at home with
an arm, chop-miter or hand saw. The cuts do not
have to be extremely accurate to produce a
workable product.
On the rack and pinion X axis there is one pair of
4 foot long 2 x 2s that have to be cut to a custom
width of around 1-1/4 inch. A table saw or plane
will do this easily, but a circular saw or even a
hand saw and patience could do the job.
The table bed can be cut to size at the store. All of
the other sheet stock parts such as the rack
supports, gantry end-plates and carriage pieces
could also be ripped to width when purchased.
Therefore, a table saw is not required, but it will
make construction more convenient.
There are a number of holes in the top and
end-plates that need to be fairly accurate; room for
adjustment up to nearly 1/8 inch is designed into
some parts, so extreme accuracy is not always
critical. A drill press will help to keep the holes
straight and on center, especially when using
Forstner bits. However, a hand held power drill
will work well enough; a drill press is not
absolutely necessary.
This machine is not suitable for spare bedroom
construction, but it was designed to only use the
tools found in a modest home shop.
Table Overview
The machine consists of
three axes, the X table, the Y
gantry and the Z carriage. As
shown in the image the X is
the longest axis, the Y moves
horizontally, and the Z
moves up and down.
For reference throughout the
manual, the front is the side
with the router-spindle.
Introduction 6
Front view of the

completed machine.
X Axis
The X axis is simply a table with rails and racks
attached to its sides, or leadscrews to its legs. This
layout permits this axis to easily be changed in
length while requiring no alterations to the rest of
the machine.
The X axis can use racks and pinions or

leadscrews to move the gantry. Racks can be
abutted; therefore, they do not limit the length of
machines the way leadscrews do, since long
leadscrews whip. Racks tend to permit faster
speeds but can be less precise than leadscrews.
The X stepper and pinion assembly is attached to
the gantry. Therefore, the rack and pinion X axis is
mechanically simple.
The leadscrew version of the X axis can use a
variety of screws and stepper configurations. All
versions use two leadscrews with one on each side
of the table. This configuration is stable and frees
the space underneath the table for other systems
from vacuum hold-downs to storage.
Rack and pinion X axis.
Leadscrew X axis.
The X axis is primarily built from 2 x 6 framing

lumber which has an actual dimension of 1-1/2 x
5-1/2 inches. This stock is used for the legs, the
pipe rail supports, and the frame of the table bed.
Four foot long strips of plywood support the racks,
and 2x4s support the field of the table bed. On the
leadscrew version, a 1x4 spans the back and serves
as a stepper mount. The table bed is made of tee
slotted MDF; the tee slots serve well as anchors for
hold down clamps. This can be replaced with
plywood or flat MDF.
Leg braces may be required underneath the table
bed. These are not specifically addressed; there are
many options, from 2x4 diagonals to a shelf or set
of shelves.
Diagonal braces.
Shelf as bracing.
The plans cover three layouts for driving the X

leadscrews. These include one stepper with a single
long belt coupling the steppers pulley to the
leadscrews pulleys. Also included is one stepper
with two belts and pulleys, with each belt coupled
to one leadscrew pulley. Finally there are two
slaved steppers with each stepper dedicated to a
single leadscrew. The advantages and shortcomings
of each are addressed in the X Leadscrew section
on page 86.
Y Gantry
The gantry is made of a 2x6 board or a 6 inch
aluminum channel with a inch plywood or a 3/8
inch aluminum plate on each end. These end plates
support the bearings that ride the X rails as well as
other drive components.
There are multiple versions of the gantry. One uses
a rack and pinion to move the carriage and the
gantry. Another version uses leadscrews for each
axis. A third version uses racks for the X
movement and a leadscrew for the Y motion. It
would also be possible to use a rack for the Y
movement and leadscrews for the X, but this is not
specifically addressed.
The Y axis can use a variety of leadscrews from
Allthread to ballscrews.
Introduction 7
Z Carriage
Wooden components and pipe rails of the Y leadscrew

and X rack version of the gantry. Front view.
The body of the Z carriage is made of inch

plywood or and 3/8 inch aluminum. The carriage
holds the bearings that ride the Y gantry rails as
well as the bearings for the Z rails.
There are two versions of the carriage. One is for
a rack and pinion Y axis, and the other is for a
leadscrew Y axis.
The main difference between these two versions is
the top plate of the carriage; one supports the
stepper and pulleys for the pinion. For the
leadscrew version, the Y stepper is attached to the
end of the gantry.
Back of Y leadscrew gantry showing X stepper

and pinion axle.
Back view of leadscrew carriage on gantry. The gantry in the

image is moved by pinions; their axle spans the end plates.
The gantrys 2x6 for the Y leadscrew version has

a dado removed on one side to give clearance for
the leadscrew. The Y rack version does not need to
have this valley removed. The channel in the
aluminum version is positioned so there is ample
clearance.
The pinions' axle is supported by fixed bearings;
this helps to eliminate backlash. This configuration
also requires fewer components and is easier to
build.
The gantry uses the same method of pipe support
as the X axis. This system uses threaded studs with
nuts and washers that firmly anchor the pipe rails
into place.
Z carriage for rack and

pinion gantry.
Z carriage for
leadscrew gantry.
The Z stepper is mounted on top of the carriage

and is offset from the leadscrew with a belt and
pulleys.
The Z axis uses a leadscrew; the type of screw can
vary. The clearance is tight, so the plans only
address Allthread and Acme screws that fit in 7/8
inch OD bearings. This permits screws up to
inch diameter, if their ends are machined. A
ballscrew version was not built and tested because
quality Acme screws work well, and new small
diameter ballscrew assemblies are expensive.
Again, cost was one of the primary factors that
determined the components of this machine.
Introduction 8
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Construction
X Axis
The basic X axis for both the leadscrew and rack
machines is made of framing lumber and a slab of
MDF. It consists of four 2x6 legs that support a
table bed which is framed with 2x6 band/rim joists,
and uses 2x4s as the field joists. The table is
surfaced with 3/4 inch tee slot MDF.
Build the table frame without its top.

Attach the legs to the table frame.
Attach the 2x6 rail supports to the legs.
Install the table top.
Loosely install pipe-rails.
The rack or leadscrew components are attached

after the gantry is installed, because their location
depends on the placement of the pinions or leadnuts
that are part of the gantry.
Table Frame
The table frame is simply a box made of 2x6s that
hold 2x4s that support the table top.
The lumber is held
together with glue
and 2-1/2 inch
drywall screws or
the equivalent.
X table made of 2 x 6 lumber.
The rails are made of 3/4 inch black iron (gas)

pipe; this has an outside diameter of just over 1
inch. The pipe rails are tied to 2x6 boards that have
1-1/2 inch holes drilled through them for access to
the attachment hardware.
The rack and pinion X axis machine uses a pair of
four foot long racks on the X axis. Four feet is a
standard length; the suppliers usually cut the racks
a little long so they can be dressed for abutting.
This extra length permits the rack version
to have an X travel of just over four feet
with stock components.
The racks are screwed to 4 foot long pieces
of inch plywood that are spaced from the
2x6 rail supports with ripped-towidth 2 x 2s.
The parts can be cut and drilled in
any order, but assembly of the
components is easier in the
following sequence.
Outside dims
The positions of the
60 x 33-7/8 inches
pilot holes are given
in the drawings. These holes are also used to mark
the matching pilot holes in the stock to which the
pieces are attached. This is done by drilling
through the holes and into the matching board with
a smaller bit.
The holes for the screws shafts should be the

diameter of the shafts. The holes for the threads
should be the screws root diameter; this is the
diameter that would be left were the threads
stripped off. Framing lumber is soft so the holes
can be undersized.
Two by four field joist. Make three.
Two by six end boards. Make two.
Construction X Axis 9
Two by six side boards. Make two. Dashed lines show position of 2 x 4s.
The heads of the screws can be countersunk, but

because of the softness of the wood, drilling a
countersink depression may be unnecessary. The
screws will probably pull themselves flush into the
wood when they are tightened into place.
The preceding figures show the dimensions of the
boards. Construction is simply a matter of cutting
the parts to length and screwing and gluing them
together.
Side view of rack table. Front is on left.
The table frame can be built now.

Rack Legs
Table Legs
There are two layouts for the leg sets. One is for
the rack and pinion X axis, and the other is for the
leadscrew X axis. Both versions are made of 2x6
framing lumber.
The legs for the rack and pinion version are simply
cut to length and drilled for the attaching screws.
The machine is designed so the top of the table will

be 32 inches from the floor when 3/4 inch stock is
used for the table top. This places the bottom of the
frames 2x6s at 25-3/4 inches from the floor, as
shown in the leg drawings. The dashed lines show
the position of the 2x6s for the table bed and pipe
supports.
The legs are attached to the frame with 2-1/2 inch
drywall screws. The positions of the pilot holes are
shown in the drawings.
Turn the frame on edge so one side is flat on the
floor while attaching the legs on the other side, then
roll the unit over and attach the other two legs.
Likewise, the frame can be supported on saw
horses while the legs are attached.
Front legs for rack version;

make two.
Back legs for rack version.

The very top screw position is
mirrored on one leg.
The back legs are shorter than the front legs to give
clearance for the rack assembly. The back legs lack
one top screw hole because of the 1-1/2 inch hole
in the rail support. Therefore, one back leg is
mirrored.
Take care to attach the legs so they are square with
the table frame. The legs are flush with the ends of
the table frame.
Make and attach the legs now.
Side of leadscrew table. Front is on left.
Leadscrew Legs
The legs for leadscrew version are notched and
drilled for the leadscrews.
All four legs use the same pattern, but the 7/8 inch
leadscrew hole in two legs is mirrored so the
leadscrew will be positioned away from the rails.
The legs are flush with the ends of the table frame;
they should be square to the frame.
Top of leadscrew leg.

Hole is positioned away
from pipe-rail.
Leg with leadscrew.
Make and attach the legs to the table bed at this

time.
Top of legs for leadscrew versions.

Two are mirrored.
Top of leg is notched and drilled for

leadscrew and leadnut clearance.
Legs for leadscrew table.
Pipe Support Boards

The pipe rails are tied to 2x6 boards that are cut to
length.
Holes are drilled into the top edges and sides of the
boards; these holes accept the hardware that holds
the pipe rails in place.
The boards are screwed to the tops of the legs just
as the table frame is. The location of these boards
is shown with the dashed lines in the leg drawings
in the previous sections.
During attachment to the legs, these 2x6 boards
can be supported on scrap pieces of 2x6 that rest
on the table frame. This is handier than using
clamps. The distance between the top of the table
frame and the bottom of these 2x6 rail supports is
5-1/2 inches, as shown in the leg drawings. This is
the same measure as the width of a 2x6.
Pipe attached to 2 x 6.
The center of the table
is toward the right.
Holes in 2 x 6 for pipe

rail attachment. The
center of table is toward
the right.
The holes in the top edges of the 2x6s are inch;

these will accept 3/8 inch threaded studs. The holes
are oversized to permit adjustment during final
assembly. These inch holes are aligned with the
1-1/2 inch holes in the sides.
The holes in the sides of these two boards are 1-1/2
inches in diameter. The holes are this large to allow
wrench access to the nuts on the threaded studs.
These 2x6s are flush with the top of the rack legs,
but are inch below the top of the leadscrew legs.
The inch holes in these boards are toward the
center of the table.
The 2x6 pipe rail supports can be made and
installed now.
Rail supports made of 2 x 6 lumber. Make two.
Rail support. inch

hole is toward the
inside of the table.
Table Top
Pipe Rails
The top of the table can be virtually any sheet

stock.
The prototype uses 3/4 inch MDF tee slot which is
handy with work clamps. Though there is only 1/4
inch of material in the top of the slot for the clamp
to pull against, the product has performed well.
However, clamping heavier or warped stock
requires the use of multiple clamps to prevent the
load from tearing the MDF slots.
The pipe rails are made of 3/4 inch ID (Inside

Diameter) gas pipe, also called black iron pipe. It
has an outside diameter of just over 1 inch.
Tee slot table top.
The table top is 60 inches by 33-7/8 inches. It can

be cut a fraction narrower to make it easier to fit
between the legs.
Holes with a diameter of 3/8 inch are drilled in the

pipe to match the inch holes that have already
been drilled in the tops of the 2x6s.
Studs with a diameter of 3/8 inch will be tied into
these holes. It is difficult to drill all of the holes in
an exactly straight line, so the holes can be drilled
as large as inch to allow for offsets. Enlarge the
holes only as needed.
Nuts will sandwich the pipe as shown in the
following section. The pipes metal is too thin to
support the threads of the 3/8 inch studs, so nuts
have to be used. Smaller diameter studs do not
offer enough support.
The pipes are 5 feet long. This is half of a standard
10 foot length, which can be cut at the home center.
The top is attached to the table frames rim and

field joists with glue and 1-5/8 inch drywall screws
or similar.
The screws are driven into the slots of the MDF so
there will be no chance of a router bit cutting into
the screw heads. The screws can be roughly a foot
apart around the perimeter and in the field.
The ends of the pipes are likely to be threaded. The

two threaded ends can be positioned at either end of
the table, but placing them at the front of the table
and using pipe caps as stops will be helpful during
construction. The stops will hold the gantry onto
the rails while the carriage, leadscrews and/or
pinions are installed.
This slab helps to hold the machine square.

Therefore, if the table bed is to be sacrificial it is
better that the sacrificial slab be put on top of this
board, rather than using this one sheet as the
replaceable surface.
Threads can be cut for stops in both ends of the

pipes, but with limit switches and steppers, a
runaway gantry is unlikely, and stops at the ends of
the rails are not critical.
The table top can be cut and installed now. Check

for square before gluing the top into place.
Cut the pipes and drill their holes as shown in the

drawing below at this time. Be sure the holes align
with the holes in the 2x6 support boards.
Holes in 3/4 ID gas pipe. Make two.
trying to catch the nut with the stud inside the pipe.
Pipe Rail Ties and Installation
The pipes are tied to the 2x6s with 3-1/2 inch long
studs cut from 3/8-16 threaded rod. Eight studs are
required for the X axis, and six are needed for the
Y axis.
Nuts on the studs
sandwich the pipe and
clamp it into place.
Washers are placed
between the nuts and the
2x6 beam. Large washers
should be used here to
distribute the load. The
nuts will be fastened as
tightly as possible to the
rails and beam, and the
wood will compress.
Stud tying pipe to beam.
After the nut and stud have been checked for a

clean connection, put the nut in the pipe and roll it
to a center hole. A screwdriver or awl in the hole
will stop the nut.
With the pipe flat on a table and the hole facing up,
use the awl to align the nut in the hole.
The center holes may need to be enlarged to as
large as a inch to allow easy access, and for all
of the studs to project from the pipe in the same
direction.
Thread the stud into the nut that is inside the pipe
so the stud is completely through the nut. Put the
second nut on the stud on the outside of the pipe
and lightly tighten it against the pipe. Make sure
not to unscrew the inside nut during this process.
Install all studs.
Two washers are necessary at each nut. Fender

washers are not thick enough to bear the load, so
two washers have to be stacked. One washer has an
outside diameter of 1-1/8 inches to seat well on the
wood, and the smaller washer has an inside
diameter of 3/8 inch to keep the nut from tearing
through the washer.
Put the washers on the studs with the smaller

washers against the nuts. The studs should all be
loose in the pipe.
Washer sizes vary by supplier and their nominal

measures do not match their exact dimensions. It is
easier to purchase the washers with a 3/8 inch bolt
or stud in hand to check their sizes.
It may not be possible to use the larger washers on

the inside hole because the studs do not extend far
enough. This is not a problem.
The larger washer cannot be so big as to overhang

the side of the beam. Oversized washers can
interfere with the bearings on the X axis and the
leadnut on the Y axis. An 1-1/8 inch OD washer
works well as the larger one.
Slide the studs into their holes in the beam. Put the
washers and nuts on the studs where they project
into the 1-1/2 inch holes.
Incrementally tighten the nuts that abut the pipe.

Make sure that the studs do not turn and loosen the
inside nuts. Once it is clear
that everything aligns,
firmly tighten the nuts
against the pipe.
The holes in the ends of the rails are positioned

near the pipe ends so it will be easier to start the
nut on the stud; a finger can fit in the pipe to hold
the nut.
Do not tighten the nuts that

are in the 1-1/2 inch holes
in the beam. These will be
tightened when the gantry is
installed.
Tight nuts may deform
The nuts in the center of the pipe are not too

difficult to start if the threads are clean. Make sure
that a nut starts and turns easily on the stud before
The pipes may slightly problem.

bulge around the inside nut
the pipe. This is not a
as shown in the drawing on the previous page.

The bulges can be filed later if they interfere with
the lower bearings travel. This bulging is not a
problem on the gantry since the bearings only ride
on one side of the rails.
Cut the eight studs and install the pipes now. While
the tools are at hand, the six studs for the gantry
can also be cut. All are 3-1/2 inches long.
Each stud requires 3 nuts and two pairs of
washers. The six studs for the aluminum channel
gantry are 2-1/4 inches long.
Sequence Note
This completes all that can be done to the X axis at
this time.
The X rails cannot be tightened into place until the
gantry is attached to them. The gantry will hold
the rails true as the hardware is tightened.
The racks or leadscrews will be installed after the
gantry is on the X rails.
The X racks alignment depends on the placement
of the pinions on the gantry; therefore, they cannot

be installed at this time. However, some of the X
racks components can be cut and drilled now.
These are addressed in the Final Assembly of Rack
X Axis section on page 100.
The X leadscrews can be installed without the
gantry being in place, and all of the X leadscrew
components can be built now, if desired. These are
covered in the Final Assembly of Leadscrew X
Axis section on page 86.
The gantry section begins on the next page, and
directions for the gantry beam are given
immediately after the introduction. The plans are
sequenced this way so the carriage can be made as
soon as possible.
As previously mentioned, once the size of the
gantry beam with the Y trucks is known, the
carriage can be built.
The carriage is the smallest and most complex axis
on the machine; its construction will probably take
longer than the other axes. Building this axis
before the other axes will keep the other larger axes
from sitting idle and crowding shop space while the
Z carriage is being built.
Gantry Overview
The gantry for all versions consists of three major
components; these are the two end plates and the
gantry beam.
The beam is a 2x6 cut to length with holes drilled
for pipe-stud access as was done on the X axis
2x6 rail supports.
Front view of gantry with X pinion and Y leadscrew.
Back view of gantry with X pinion axle and

Y leadscrew stepper.
Gantry with end-plates, X rack and Y leadscrew version.
The beam for the Y leadscrew version has a trough

dadoed in it to give the leadscrew and leadnut
clearance behind the carriage.
Front view of gantry with rack and pinion X and Y axes.
The end plates are made of inch plywood and

have different hole placements for each system to
accommodate the X pinion bearing, the X leadnut
mount, the X pinion stepper, the Y leadscrew, and
the Y leadscrew stepper.
All of the end plates are cut from the same basic
shape and have identical truck systems.
Notes on the aluminum gantry are on page 132.
Front view of gantry for X and Y leadscrew axes.
Sequence Note
The gantry beam is built first. The other
components of the gantry, including the end-plates,
the X stepper mount, and the X bearing sets can be
built at any time. However they can not be
completely assembled until the gantry is on the X
axis.
The Z carriage can be built once the height of the
gantry and Y bearings is known. Those wishing to
begin work on the carriage before finishing the
gantry can skip ahead to the carriage section once

the height of the gantrys beam has been
determined.
The Y rack for the rack and pinion version of the
gantry requires that its brackets be installed before
the top rail is installed. Thus the rack installation
section precedes the gantry rail section.
The rack section can, of course, be ignored when a
leadscrew is used on the Y gantry.
Gantry Beam 16
Gantry Beam
The height of the gantry determines the height of
the Z axis; therefore, the gantry beam should be
built before further work is done on the gantry or
the carriage.
The aluminum channel version is addressed in the
Aluminum Notes section on page 132.
On the leadscrew version a x 1- inch trough

is dadoed from end to end in
the face of the beam; it has the
same centerline as the wrench
access holes.
This cut-out gives clearance
for a variety of leadnuts; the
dado is unnecessary when a
rack is used on the Y axis.
The beam can be cut and Trough cut in gantry for
drilled at this time.
leadscrew clearance.
Rails on 2 x 6 beam. Front view, Y leadscrew version.
The rails are 3/4 ID gas pipe, which are attached to

the top and bottom edges of the 2x6 with studs cut
from 3/8-16 threaded rod. This is the same
attachment method that is used on the X axis.
The actual dimension of the 2x6 is 1-1/2 x 5-1/2
inches; it is cut to 33-1/4 inches long. This length
fits a 36 inch pinion axle and Y leadscrew.
Half inch holes are drilled into its edges for 3/8
inch studs that support the pipe rails, and 1-1/2
inch holes are drilled through the beam for wrench
access to the studs and nuts.
Pipe rails held to

gantry beam with
studs. Leadscrew
version shown.
Gantry beam dimensions.
Gantry Beam 17
Gantry beam end view. The

dadoed section does not have
to be removed for the rack and
pinion gantry. Front is on
right.
Rack for Y Movement

This section can be ignored when a
leadscrew is used to move the carriage
on the gantry. Skip ahead to the Y Pipe
Rails section on page 20.
The rack is cut and drilled as shown at
the bottom of the page.
Rack on top back of gantry.
It can be purchased as a 2 foot section

which will actually be nearer 25 inches; the
suppliers cut the racks long to permit trimming for
clean abutment.
This extra length can be left on the rack; it will
permit the carriage to travel slightly farther.
As mentioned in the X rack section, the rack can be
cut from a 6 foot section when the X axis uses 4
foot racks.
The rack dimensions do not have to be exactly as
drawn. The rack length will vary as just noted, and
the hole spacing can be different.
It is important that the rack holes are not near the
stud holes in the beam. If too close, the studs and
the brackets will block each other.
The hole spacing of 7-1/2 inches was chosen to
give equal spacing with four attachment screws.
Three equally spaced screws in the 2 foot length

allowed the rack to flex.
Factory drilled racks are pre-drilled to 4 inches;
this short distance provides more support than is
needed with this machine.
The holes in the rack should allow for a small
amount of adjustment around the attaching screws.
A diameter of 1/4 inch usually works well. The
holes can be enlarged if needed.
The holes are centered between the teeth and the
back of the rack.
The rack can be cut and drilled at this time. It is
installed after the brackets and rails are in place.
Holes in rack. The holes are larger than the attaching screws to allow adjustment.
Gantry Beam 18
Rack Brackets
The gantrys rack sits on four sections of 1 x 1/8
inch aluminum angle that are cut to 3/4 inch with
a 7/16 inch vertical leg.
There are directions for the aluminum channel
version on page 132.
One hole in the long leg is countersunk for a small

wood screw that fastens the bracket to the top of
the gantry beam.
These four brackets can be cut, drilled and tapped
at this time. The hole for the racks longer screw
will be drilled later.
Install Rack Brackets

The rack brackets have to be installed below the
top rail before the rail can be attached to the beam.
Therefore, the brackets are installed now.
Rack support bracket with the two holes
that are drilled first.
Place the four brackets on the top back of the

gantry beam so they align with the racks holes
when the rack is centered end to end on the beam.
The brackets should be aligned so the racks holes
are centered width-ways over the brackets.
The back of the gantry beam is the side that is 7/8
inch from the inch stud holes; the pipe rails stud
holes are nearer the front of the beam.
The edge of the long leg of the brackets should be
flush with the back of the gantry beam as shown in
the drawing on the left.
Rack on Gantry. Front is on right.
In the brackets short leg a 9/64 inch hole is drilled

and tapped for a #8-32 x 3/4 inch machine screw.
This screw presses the rack into position against
the pinion.
When the brackets are aligned with the rack holes,

remove the rack, and screw the brackets into the
beam with #4 x 3/4 wood screws. The screw size
is not critical. Pilot holes in the 2x6 may be
necessary for the small screws.
The holes in the brackets for the longer screws
cannot be drilled until the top pipe rail is in place.
The rack will abut the rail and that position will be
determined later.
Install the brackets now. The top rail cannot be
installed until these rack brackets are in place.
Hole placement in rack support bracket.

Left hole will be determined later by the
rack. Four brackets required.
Gantry Beam 19
Y Pipe Rails
Gantry rail dimensions. Made of 3/4 inch ID gas pipe. Make two.
The pipe rails on the gantry, like those on the X

axis, are made of 3/4 inch ID gas pipe. They are
cut to 30-1/2 inches long, and 3/8 inch holes are
drilled into them for the attachment studs. This is
the same process as was described in the X axis
Pipe Rail section.
The two rails can be cut and drilled at this time.
Make sure that the holes in the rails match the
holes in the gantry beam.
Install Rails
The rails are installed onto the beam the same way
the X rails were attached. The directions on page
14 for the X rails apply here. The only difference
is there are rails on both the top and bottom of the
gantry. There are notes for the aluminum version
on page 132.
For the rack and pinion Y axis version, the rack
brackets have to be installed before the top rail is
put in place. See Rack Brackets on previous page.
Loosely install the rails onto the beam now.
other.
The washers on the top and
bottom can slightly overhang the
edge of the beam. But the
washers in the 1-1/2 inch holes
should not protrude beyond the
face of the beam on the
leadscrew version. The leadnut
clearance is close, and the
leadnut can bump into the
washers.
The pipes are

approximately 1/8
inch from the
edge of the 2 x 6.
As on the X axis, there may not be enough room

for the larger washers to be used on the studs in the
1-1/2 inch holes. This is not a problem; the one
smaller washer is usually enough, though it will be
pressed into the wood.
On the Y rack version, the bottom of the top rail
will be close to the short leg of the rack brackets.
The rail may touch the brackets, but it should not
press them into the wood enough to keep the
brackets from sitting flat on the top of the gantry.
If this does happen, the brackets short legs can be
filed to fit, or extra washers can be used to raise
the rail.
Tighten Rails
The rails have to be parallel to each other. This is
accomplished by placing the gantry face down on
a flat surface and using a spacer such as a
yardstick or paint paddle to space the pipes so they
are around 1/8 inch from the edge of the beam. See
the above right drawing.
Tighten the rails into place at this time.

For the Y leadscrew version, skip ahead to the
Sequence Note on page 21.
For the Y rack version, see the following section
for additional information.
This distance will vary because of the orientation

of the studs in the pipes and the holes in the beam.
Rack Installation
The two pipes do not have to be spaced the exact

same distance from the edge of the beam. There is
room for adjustment elsewhere, so the only critical
factor here is that the rails are parallel to each
This section can be ignored for the Y leadscrew

version.
The rack can be installed on the rack and pinion
gantry machine after the rails are tightened into
place.
Gantry Beam 20
Abut the rack against the top rail so its holes align
with the brackets. Use the holes in the rack as
templates to mark their positions on the aluminum
brackets.
Sequence Note
The other parts of the gantry can be
built at this time, but the gantry cannot
be completely assembled until it is on
the X axis. The directions for the gantry
follow the next Y Bearing Trucks
sections.
The carriage can be built once the
height of the rails and bearing trucks is
determined, right image.
Rack abuts pipe rail.
The screws that tie the rack to the beam should be

at least 1-1/2 inches long; they need to firmly tie
the rack into place. #8 x 1-1/2 sheet metal screws
work well since their threads are deep and not
tapered. Tapered wood screws are more likely to
work loose. Drywall screws also work but washers
are required under their heads. A potential problem
is the washers may overhang the teeth in the rack
and interfere with the pinion.
Drill holes in the brackets that are the diameter of
the screws that will tie the rack to the gantry beam.
Drill smaller pilots into the beam through these
new holes in the brackets.
Screw the rail to the gantry. The screws will be
tightened into their final position after the carriage
is installed; do not tighten the screws at this time.
Thread #8-32 x 3/4 inch machine screws into the
threaded holes in the back of the brackets. These
screws will be used to adjust the rack to pinion
connection later.
Building the carriage could be the next

step when shop space is limited or when Height of
carriage.
this will be a long term project.
Therefore, the carriages bearing trucks are
addressed next.
Y Bearing Trucks
These
trucks for the Y
movement are attached to the
top and bottom plates of the Z
carriage.
The height of the Z carriage
depends on the way these Y
bearing trucks ride on the
gantry rails. Therefore, the Y
trucks are covered now.
The trucks are made of 1 x
1/8 inch aluminum angle that
supports size 608 bearings,
this is the size of skate
bearings.
Y bearing trucks.
The Y rack can be loosely installed at this time.
Bearings tied to aluminum angle with

bolts. Two trucks needed.
Y Bearing Trucks 21
The bearings are held to the aluminum angle with

5/16 x 1 inch bolts. The heads of the bolts are
inside the aluminum angle, and nuts are tightened
against the aluminum.
The bearing is installed next; a second nut is then
tightened onto the bolt to hold the bearing into
place.
The angle is cut and drilled as shown below. The
holes are offset so the heads of the bolts will not
interfere with each other.
The countersunk depression can be made by

drilling a shallow hole that is the diameter of the
screw head into the corner of the angle. Take care
not to drill too deeply or the screw head will tear
through the remaining metal.
The bearing trucks have to be a fraction shorter
than the width of the top plate so they can move
freely between the Z side brackets for adjustment.
The top plates width is 6 inches; the trucks length
is 5-15/16 inches.
The heads of the 5/16 inch bolts will extend beyond
the edges of the aluminum angle. This will prevent
the trucks from seating properly on the carriage
plates. Therefore, the bolt heads have to be ground,
sanded, or filed down so they are flush with the
angles edges. See image below.
Y truck angle.
Made of 1 x 1/8 inch aluminum angle.
The holes in the sides are all 7/16 inch from the
outside edges of the aluminum angle.
The two 11/64 inch holes on the corner edge of the
aluminum are for #8-32 x 1-1/4 inch machine
screws that will tie the truck assemblies to the
carriages top and bottom plates.
Attachment screw holes are

countersunk so screws will not
scrape the rails.
These screws cannot scrape against the pipe rail.

Therefore, the holes in the aluminum should be
countersunk or filed down so the screw heads are
recessed into the aluminum.
A belt sander works

well for removing this
material; take care
because the metal will
become hot when power
sanded. Simply rest the
heads of the nuts in the
finished truck on the
sanding belt.
Differently sized nuts or
slight offsets in the
holes will cause the
bearings to not ride the
rails perfectly. Right
image.
Bearings can be slightly off

center (left bearing) but
cannot ride on edge (right
bearing).
The bearings do not have to ride exactly on their

centers. However they cannot ride so close to their
edges that the bearings dig into the pipe.
Change the hole size, nut size, or use washers to
space the bearings so they ride well. This should
only be an issue if a differently sized pipe is used
for the rails.
The two bearing trucks can be cut, drilled and
assembled at this time.
Y Bearing Trucks 22
Measure Y Trucks
The finished trucks are placed on the
gantry rails as shown on the right, and
the distance between the backs of the
aluminum angles is measured.
This distance will vary considerably
from machine to machine due to the
compounding of the slight differences
in each of the components.
Care should be taken to obtain an
accurate measurement. This distance
determines the size of other
components. However, absolute
precision is not critical; there is around
an 1/8 inch of adjustment possible to
correct for mis-measurement and for
wear compensation.
The measure can be rounded to the

nearest 1/16 inch.
The distance on the wooden prototype
is nearly 10 inches as shown in the
drawing. The aluminum version is
near10-1/2 inches. This measure will
be the height of the back, sides, and
bearings of the Z carriage.
Take this measurement now to begin
work on the Z carriage. The carriage
section begins on page 33.
Carriage
measure.
Gantry
All of the gantry components can be fabricated in
the order presented in this manual, but they cannot
be completely assembled until they are placed on
the X axis. Assembly is addressed in the Gantry
Installation section on page 74.
Gantry End Plates

The end plates for all versions of the gantry are
similar; each is cut from the same sized slab, and
the holes for the bearing trucks are the same. The
wooden versions are made of inch plywood, and
the aluminum ones are 3/8 x 6 inch flat bar.
The left end plate for the X rack and pinion gantry
has to be notched to give clearance for the X
stepper. All other end plates are 10-1/4 x 6 inch
rectangles.
There are four full sized drawings at the end of this
manual that can be used as templates for both the
aluminum and wood end plates.
The directions on the following pages are for the

wooden version of the gantry. The aluminum
version is similar, but the attachment holes for the
end plates to the gantry beam are different and are
not shown in the drawings in the following section.
The templates for the aluminum version show their
attachment hole locations.
The Aluminum Notes section on page 132
addresses the differences in the layout. Read that
section before beginning work on the aluminum
gantry.
The pilot holes in the end plates are used to mark
the matching attachment holes in the gantry beam
ends. Only one hole in each end of the wooden
gantry beam should be drilled initially. Attaching
the end plates to the beam with one 1-5/8 inch
drywall screw will permit the end plates to rotate
so the bearings will properly ride the rails. The
remaining holes are then drilled into the end of the
gantry beam through the pilot holes that are in the
end plates. Drywall screws and glue fasten the end
plates to the wooden beam.
Gantry End Plates 23
Left End Plate, X Pinion and Y Leadscrew

This version uses racks and pinions for the X
movement and a leadscrew for the Y movement.
This left end plate has a section removed to give
the stepper clearance. A stepped hole supports the
pinions bearing. Holes are drilled for the
leadscrew and its bearing blocks attachment
screws, and the X stepper brackets attachment
screws. As with all of the end plates, holes are also
drilled for the Y gantry beam attachment and the X
rail bearing assemblies.
The pinion bearing rests in 1-1/8 inch recesses that
surround a 7/8 inch through hole. Use Forstner
bits and drill the 1-1/8 inch recess first. The
bearing is installed from the outside of the gantry
so the pinion will press the bearing into the end
plate.
Gantry end plate for X pinion

and Y leadscrew. X stepper
end.
Installed end plate for X pinion

and Y leadscrew.
Front view of completed gantry with X

pinion and Y leadscrew.
This plate can be cut and drilled now.

There is a template at the end of the manual.
Left end plate for X rack and pinion, and Y leadscrew.
Gantry 24
Right End Plate, X Pinion and Y Leadscrew

The right end plate supports the
stepper for the Y leadscrew, the
leadscrew bearing, and the X
pinion bearing.
The Y belt is tensioned by an
idler that is secured in a pair of
5/16 inch holes that are drilled
Gantry end plate, Y stepper end for X
and smoothed.
pinion and Y leadscrew.
Gantry end plate for X pinion

and Y leadscrew.
The leadscrews bearing hole in

this end is recessed in the same manner as the
pinions bearings. It supports a 7/8 inch OD
bearing for 3/8 inch or smaller leadscrews or it can
be drilled to support a 1-1/8 inch OD bearing for
inch leadscrews.
The shoulder of this hole should not be too thin; it
supports the thrust load of the Y leadscrew.
Details on the steppers dimensions are on page 29,
and there is a template for this plate at the end of
the manual.
Back view of completed gantry for X pinion and Y

leadscrew version.
End plate for X rack and pinion, and Y leadscrew.
Gantry 25
End Plates for X and Y Rack and Pinion

These two end plates are the same as the previous
pair except they lack the holes for the leadscrew
and its stepper and idler.
The plates can be cut and drilled now. There are
templates at the end of this manual.
End plate for rack

on X and Y.
Left end plate for rack and pinion X and Y axes. End with notch for stepper.
Right end plate for X and Y rack and pinion. The Y stepper is on the carriage.
Gantry 26
End plate installed.
Left End Plate for X and Y Leadscrew

Both of the plates for this version are 6 x
10-1/4 inch slabs that are cut from inch
plywood. The X stepper is attached to the
end of the X table rather than to the
gantry, therefore, the end plate can be left
unnotched.
Left end plate for X
The pinion bearings are unnecessary; X

and Y leadscrews.
motion is via the leadnuts, which are
Left end with bearing block
attached to the end plates with angle brackets.
and leadnut bracket.
Holes for the angle brackets mounting screws are drilled
in the end plates along with holes for the Y leadscrews
bearing block.
Both of these pairs of holes are tapped for the attaching
screws. The holes are darkened in the drawing below.
Threading the machine screws into these holes makes
adjustments easier.
This plate can be cut and drilled at this time. There is a
Front view of leadscrew X and Y gantry.
template at the end of the manual.
Left end plate for X and Y leadscrew axes.
Gantry 27
Right End Plate for X and Y Leadscrew

The right end plate supports the
stepper for the Y leadscrew, the idler
and the leadscrews bearing.
The idler tensions the belt, and slides
in a slot made from two 5/16 inch
holes.
Right end plate for X

and Y leadscrews.
The leadscrews bearing is supported

in a stepped hole. The recess is 7/8
inch when a 3/8 inch or smaller leadscrew is used.
This can be 1-1/8 inch for a larger bearing with a
inch leadscrew. The inside diameter is inch or
7/8 inch depending on the size of the bearing. The
shoulder left by the inside hole should not be too
thin; the thrust load of the leadscrew is carried by
the remaining material.
The layout of the steppers holes is addressed in the

following section. There is a template for this plate
at the end of the manual.
Y leadscrew; stepper end.
Back view of gantry with Y leadscrew stepper.
This end plate can be cut and drilled at this time.
Right end plate for X and Y leadscrew axes.
Gantry 28
Stepper Dimensions
The details of the NEMA 23
steppers hole dimensions are
shown here.
The 2-3/8 outside dimension
measure will vary between
steppers, but the center hole and
mounting hole locations are the
same for all.
The mounting bolt holes are in a

2-5/8 inch circle.
It is easier to drill the 1/4 inch
hole and use the stepper itself as
the template. This diagram can
be referred to for the stepper
layout on all three axes.
There are templates for all
stepper mounts in the back of
this manual.
NEMA 23 stepper dims.
Y Leadscrew Bearing Block

The Y leadscrews left bearing is supported by a
block that is machine-screwed to the end plate.
A block is used at this
end, rather than a
recess in the end plate
as is done with the
right end plate, to
permit adjustment.
The 1/4 inch
attachment holes
permit the block to be
moved on the #8
machine screws for
leadscrew alignment.
The block can be
made of 3/8 inch thick
kitchen cutting board
plastic. This material
machines easily and
does not tear, as small
pieces of wood can.
Y leadscrew bearing block

on left end of gantry.
The bearing does not have to be flush with the

surface of the bearing block, which permits the
shoulder to be thicker.
This block is held to
the end plate with #832 x 1-1/4 machine
screws. These are
threaded into the end
plate with their shafts
extending outward.
Bearing block secured
Tightening the screws

to end-plate.
into the end plate
prevents them from freewheeling while the
leadscrew is being aligned. This makes the tuning
process easier.
Bearing block on end plate
for X leadscrew version.
This block can be cut and drilled now.
This block can be drilled for a 7/8

or 1-1/8 inch OD bearing to match
the bearing at the leadscrews right
end. Holes of both sizes are shown
in the dimensioned drawing.
Use Forstner bits; drill the large
recess first. The shoulder left by the Leadscrew
smaller hole supports the thrust bearing block
load of the leadscrew; therefore, this remaining
stock cannot be too thin.
Gantry Components 29
L e a d s cr e w b e a r i n g b l o c k
dimensions. Holes for two sizes of
bearings are shown.
Belt Tensioner/Idler
X Stepper Mount for Rack and Pinion
The idlers are made of skate bearings and inch

PVC electrical conduit couplers. These are grey
plastic.
The stepper for the X rack and pinion axis is

supported by a plate that is made of inch
plywood or 3/8 inch aluminum. This stock should
be firm; the belts tension will cause weaker
material to flex.
Idlers are needed for both

the pinion and leadscrew
versions of the Y axis.
An idler is also used on
the rack and pinion X
axis.
A longer idler is used on
Idler made of bearings
the single long belt and electrical conduit
version of the leadscrew coupler.
X axis. This longer idler
is addressed in the X leadscrew section.
No idler is required for the Z leadscrew belt.
The inch PVC
electrical conduit
coupler is cut near its
center. The inside
center stop is left in
the section that is
used for this idler.
Skate bearings or the
equiva lent a r e
pressed into the
coupler.
Cross section of bearings in

coupler with axle bolt
A coupler, rather than just the bearings, is used to

give a wider surface and larger diameter for the
belt to ride. This system is better for the life of the
belt and is more forgiving of construction offsets.
The tensioners axle is a 5/16 x 1-1/2 inch bolt.
Washers are used as spacers to position the idler on
the axle. The axle is moved in the slot in the end
plate or stepper mount to tension the belt.
These idlers can be made at this time. They will be
installed later.
One is required for the Y axis, and one is needed on
the rack and pinion X axis.
This stepper has to

remain clear of the
gantrys bearing
assembly and the
carriage. Therefore, this
stepper plate is not a
simple rectangle.
To facilitate layout, the
dimensioned drawing is
rotated, and redundant
dimensions are shown.
It is easier to start the
layout process with a 3 x
7 inch piece of stock.
The stepper itself can be
used for the steppers
hole positioning. The
previous Stepper
Dimension section on
page 29 can be referred
to as well.
Back view of gantry showing

stepper and pulleys.
X stepper mount
behind gantry
The darkened holes in the

dimensioned drawing are
all 5/16 inch, the two
overlapping holes are
smoothed to create a slot
which allows the idler to
be adjusted.
A 1-1/8 inch OD bearing
X stepper mount.
is pressed into a recess in
this plate, just as is done with the end plates pinion
bearings. This stepper plates bearing does not
support a significant thrust load so the shoulder left
by the smaller inside hole can be thin. The bearing
should be on the same side of the plate as the larger
pulley so the pulley can help to hold the bearing
into place.
A bearing is necessary in this plate; without it, the

pinion axle flexes under the load of the belts
tension.
The table is designed for a 36 x inch pinion axle.
On the prototype this is a solid steel hardware store
rod.
There is a full sized drawing of this part at the end

of this manual. It can be used as a template.
Printing can distort the scale; check the dimensions
before cutting and drilling.
The X stepper mount can be cut and drilled now.
X stepper mount dimensions. Made of inch plywood.
X Bearing Assembly
The gantry rides on skate bearings or
similar that are tied to the end plates with
5/16 x 2-1/2 inch carriage bolts, and 1 x
1/8 inch aluminum angle and flat bar.
A bent section of 1 x 1/8 aluminum flat
bar holds a bearing below the others. This
bearing is tensioned against the rail by
adjusting the nuts on the carriage bolts.
X truck inside view.
The heads of the bottom carriage bolts are

notched to clear the vertical 1 inch axle
bolts.
The vertical 1 inch bolt heads fit in the
notches that were cut in the bottom edges
of the gantry end plates.
X truck outside view. The

carriage bolt is notched
for the bolt head.
X truck, end view.
Angle Bearing Support
120 Flat Bar
Four sections of 1 x 1/8 inch angle are cut to 1-1/2

inches long and drilled as shown. Two of the
sections mirror the other two.
The 1 x 1/8 inch flat bar is cut, bent and drilled as

shown.
These four angles can be cut and drilled now.
Mirrored
Holes in 1 x 1/8 inch angle. Four
needed; two are mirror images.
Mark the holes before bending the metal, drill the

holes after the metal is bent.
To bend the metal, clamp the short
section in a vise with the jaws aligned
with the bend line. Use a hammer or
pliers to bend the bar to the correct
angle. The side view image can be used
as a template for the angle. The scale in
the drawing may be off, but the angle is
correct.
There is room for variation, and the
way the bearings ride on the rails will
determine the final angle and the
spacing of the bearings.
Angle side
Attach Bearings
A bearing is tightened into each of the angles with
a 5/16 x 1 inch bolt as shown. Two are mirrored.
This bearing assembly can be loosely view.

put together at this time but the gantry
needs to be on the X rails before the final spacing
and tensioning of the bearings is possible.
It may be difficult to position the top bearings so
they ride on the exact center of the rails. As with
the bearings on the other axes, this is not a
problem.
These four angles can be made and loosely
installed now.
Bearing attached to angle.
Two are mirrored.
The bearings and angles are then attached to the

end plates with the carriage bolts. The carriage
bolts heads may have to be notched to clear the
heads of the 1 inch bolts.
Install these bearings now and attach them to the
end plates. Refer to the drawings on the previous
page for the layout.
120 Angle bracket.
Mark holes before bending;
drill after bending.
120 angle bracket.
Carriage Overview
This axis was designed to be simple and solid while
using hardware store materials. Adjustment
systems are built into the unit, and the parts count
is kept low by combining the components
functions.
The body of the Z carriage is a basic carcass built
of inch plywood, or 3/8 and inch aluminum
flat bar. These parts include the back, two sides,
the top, and the bottom.
The top plate for the rack version is more complex
since it supports the stepper and pinion assembly
for the Y motion.
Carriage body
components for the Y
leadscrew version.
Back of carriage for

leadscrew Y axis.
Front of carriage for

leadscrew Y axis.
Wooden components for rack

and pinion Y axis.
Carriage for rack and
pinion Y axis.
The Z rails are inch ID gas pipe. This has an

outside diameter of 0.85 inch, nearly 7/8 inch. The
Z bearings are similar to the Y bearings.
Threaded rod ties span the top and bottom plates
and the sides. These are used to tension the
bearings against the rails.
Aluminum angle and flat bar are used for the rails
cross ties.
The leadscrew can vary in diameter and type; it is
coupled to the stepper with a belt and pulleys. A
3/8 inch diameter 2 start Acme leadscrew was the
preferred size in the prototypes.
Underside of carriage for

rack and pinion Y axis.
The router-spindle is held to

the Z rails with 16 gage pipe
straps; these are attached to
cradles which are made of
aluminum flat bar and wood.
Browse this chapter before
b eginning w o r k , a nd
completely read each section
before making parts.
The leadscrews top bearing is supported by the

top plate, and the bottom bearing is in a block that
is supported by an aluminum angle.
Carriage 33
Router mount on
Z rails.
are only needed on the left side plate of the Y

leadscrew version of the machine. The Y rack
version does not require them. They are tapped to
accept #8-32 screws. Adjusting the leadnut bracket
is easier when these two screws do not freewheel in
these holes.
Sides
The two side plates are made
of inch plywood that is
ripped to 3 inches wide. Their
height is the length that was
determined in the Measure Y
Trucks section on page 23.
See the Aluminum section on
page 133 for the aluminum
version.
The Z bearing trucks, and Z
tension rods are attached to
these panels.
Carriage: Top for

Leadscrew Y Axis
Bottom, Sides and
Back
Except for the two tapped holes, the right side is a

mirror image of the one shown. It can be cut as
drawn and then flipped, unless the surface of the
wood is different on the two sides.
One side can be cut and drilled, and then be used as
a template for the other side.
Cut and drill the two side plates now.
The carriage is designed with inch thick wooden

sides. With this thickness, the
top and bottom plates edges
will align with the sides.
However it does not matter if
the sides are not inch thick.
The top and bottom will
slightly overhang the sides;
this is not a problem.
The unshaded holes in the
dimensioned drawing are 1/4
inch and will accept #8 and
#10 screws. The holes are
oversized to allow for
adjustment.
The small shaded holes near the
edge are pilot holes for the
screws that tie the sides to the
back. These holes will be used
later as templates for the pilots
that are drilled into the edges of
the back plate.
These holes in the sides are then
enlarged and countersunk for the
screws. At this time the holes are
drilled as small pilots.
The darkened 9/64 inch holes
near the middle of the plate are
for the screws that hold the Y
leadnut bracket. Therefore, they
Tension rod and truck

attached to side plate.
Screw holes for the Y

leadnut are circled.
They are only needed in
the left side of the
leadscrew version.
Carriage 34
Left side of Z Carriage with screw holes

for leadnut bracket.
Back Plate
Top Plate, Y Leadscrew Version
The back plate is a 5 inch wide slab of inch

plywood or aluminum; its height is the same as the
sides.
The top plate is cut from

inch plywood or 3/8
inch aluminum. It
supports the top Y
bearing truck, the top Z
leadscrew bearing, and
the Z stepper mounting
hardware.
Carriage top plate for

leadscrew Y axis
The front of this top plate

is cut away so the Z pipe rails will clear as they
move up and down in the carriage. See image
below.
Z Sides and Back.
The two holes in the bottom are drilled and tapped

for #8-32 machine screws. The holes are tapped to
prevent the screws from freewheeling during
assembly. This makes adjustments easier.
Top as positioned with the Z pipe
rails.
Carriage Back. The height is the distance that was measured

between the Y bearings. This is around 10 inches.
The other holes that are in the edges of this plate

will be drilled later.
This back plate can be cut, and the two holes can
be drilled and tapped now.
The top bearing truck is

attached to the bottom of
the top plate.
The top plate supports the

stepper mounting plate.
The part is cut and drilled as drawn on the

following page.
The bearing hole is drilled for a 7/8 inch OD
bearing. A 22 mm skate bearing will also fit well in
this size hole. Its 8 mm bore is close to 5/16 inch
and works well enough for a 5/16-18 Allthread leadscrew.
Carriage 35
The 7/8 inch hole is drilled

approximately 1/4 inch
into the top plate. The
inch hole is then drilled
through the remaining
stock. It will be difficult to
align the 7/8 inch hole if
the inch hole is drilled
first. A Forstner bit is used
The Z leadscrews top
for the larger hole.
bearing is recessed into the
top plate.
The depth of the 7/8 inch

hole can vary. There is
adjustment for the position of the pulley, stepper
and belt, so the top of the bearing does not have to
be flush with the surface of the top plate.
The shoulders of the inch hole will carry the

weight of the router spindle. Therefore, it is
important for the 7/8 inch hole to not be too deep,
or there will not be enough stock below the bearing
to support it.
can be ground off of the carriage bolts, or the holes

can be drilled to 13/64 inch and tapped for 1/4-20
studs which would replace the carriage bolts.
The dashed lines in the dimensioned drawing
indicate where the back plate attaches to the
bottom of this top plate.
The purpose of the holes is written in the drawing.
The top plate is symmetrical on each side of the 3
inch center line.
This top plate can be cut and drilled at this time.
It is not attached to anything yet.
It is easier to begin the layout with a 6 x 4-7/8 inch
piece of stock.
There is a full sized drawing of this plate at the end
of this manual. It can be used as a template.
Printing can distort the scale; check the dimensions
before cutting and drilling.
A larger bearing could be used here but the

clearance would be tight. One was not tested
on the prototypes because a 3/8 inch leadscrew
worked well, and 3/8 x 7/8 inch bearings are a
standard size.
The inch hole can be enlarged to clear a
larger diameter leadscrew, but there has to be
enough stock left to support the edge of the
bearing.
All other holes in the top plate are 1/4 inch
except for the single pilot hole in the lower
right corner. This smaller hole is for a screw
that ties this plate to the side plate. It is drilled
for a 1-5/8 inch drywall screw.
This hole will be used to mark the position of
its matching hole in the top of the side plate.
This screw helps to prevent the one side plate
from flexing when the Z tension rods are
tightened.
The two carriage bolt holes in the aluminum
version can be completely drilled, or partially
enlarged to 5/16 inch from the bottom side.
This larger diameter will accept the square
neck of the carriage bolts. Likewise, the necks
Carriage 36
Top plate for leadscrew Y axis.
Top Plate, Y Rack and Pinion Version

This plate, like the one in the previous section,
supports the top Y bearing truck, the Z leadscrew
bearing and the Z steppers mounting hardware.
This version also supports the Y stepper, the pinion
assembly, and the idler that tensions the Y belt. It
is made of inch plywood or 3/8 inch aluminum.
There is a template for this in the back of the

manual.
There are directions for the alterations required for
the aluminum version in the Aluminum section on
page 134.
The darkest holes are all 1/4 inch. The larger holes
are recesses for bearings and carriage bolt heads.
The 7/8 inch recess for the Z leadscrew bearing
should be drilled deeply enough to keep the bearing
in place, but not so deep as to allow the bearing to
tear through the bottom of this plate. A recess that
is around 1/4 inch deep will work well. The bearing
can stand proud of the surface.
Top of carriage for Y rack and pinion
This top plate is symmetrical along the 3 inch

center line with the exception of the pair of
overlapping 5/16 inch holes that hold the idler near
the stepper.
The size of the smaller through-hole in the recess

for the Z leadscrew will vary depending on the
bearing and leadscrew. This hole is inch in the
drawing.
It is easier to begin layout with a piece of stock that

is 8-1/2 x 6 inches. Most of the dimensions origins
are on the left edge.
Carriage top plate for rack and pinion on Y axis.
Carriage 37
The more material that is left in the hole the better

since it supports the weight of the router spindle.
However, the bearings center cannot scrape
against the remaining stock.
The 7/8 inch recess near the center of the plate is
for the pinions axle bearing. The bearing will
support very little thrust load, and should be flush
with the surface of this top plate. Therefore, the
remaining 5/8 inch holes shoulder does not have to
be as thick as the one for the Z leadscrew bearing.
7-1/8 inches are to be marked on the bottom of the

plate.
The and 5/8 inch holes inside the 7/8 inch
recesses extend completely through the stock.
Drill the larger recesses first; it is difficult to center
the larger recesses when the smaller holes are
drilled beforehand. The 7/8 and 3/4 inch recesses
are drilled with Forstner bits.
This center bearing needs to be flush with the

surface of the plate because the pinions 36 tooth
pulley has to ride near the plate so the belt will
align with the steppers pulley. The shortness of the
steppers shaft prevents its 12 tooth pulley from
being extended very far above the top plate.
The 5/8 inch through hole that is inside the 7/8 inch
bearing recess is large to allow clearance for the
3/8 inch bore of the bearing.
Top plate with stepper, idler, and pulleys.
Pinion bearing in top plate.
The 3/4 inch recesses on both sides of the bearing

recess are for the heads of carriage bolts that tie the
pinions lower bearing block into place. The
carriage bolts can be replaced with standard bolts.
Carriage bolts were chosen because of availability,
and the large head keeps them from pulling through
the wood when tightened. The heads of these two
bolts are underneath the 36 tooth pulley and they
have to be recessed into the top plate to clear the
pulley.
The light area, inside the dashed lines in the
dimensioned drawing, marks where this plate
attaches to the back plate. The lines at 6-5/8 and
Wooden components for rack version.
The two overlapping 5/16 inch holes near the

stepper hole are for the axle of the idler. The edges
of the two holes should be smoothed together so the
idler can be adjusted against the belt in this oval
slot.
Note that the stepper is turned 45. This is to allow
room for the idlers axle-bolt.
The holes for the stepper are for a NEMA 23 face
plate. This has a bolt circle of 2-5/8 inches with a
raised face of 1-1/2 inches in diameter.
Carriage 38
The drawing below is the same as the one shown in

the gantry section; it is a detail of the steppers
dimensions. The 2-3/8 inch width value will vary
between steppers but the hole positions are fixed.
Dims of NEMA 23 stepper holes.
For layout, it is much easier to drill a 1/4 inch hole

for the steppers shaft in the center of the 1-1/2
inch circle on the top plate, and then use the
stepper itself as a template for the bolt holes.
Four #8 or #6 machine screws hold the stepper into
place. The holes should be at least 11/64 inch.
Larger holes can be drilled to compensate for any
misalignment.
After the bolt holes are marked, the 1-1/2 inch hole
can be drilled. It can be larger as long as there is
enough stock for the stepper to be tightly attached
to the plate.
Cut and drill this plate; no hardware is attached to
it at this time. There is a full sized drawing of this
at the end of this manual. It can be used as a
template. Printing can distort the scale; check the
dimensions before cutting and drilling the plate.
Note: In some of the following sections the images
are of the smaller top plate, but they refer to this
longer top plate as well.
when the leadscrew is

installed, and is held in
place with #8-32 x 1-1/4
inch screws.
These screws have to be
installed before the Z
bearings are installed. The
screws heads are on the
inside of the carriage.
The 1/4 inch slots in this Carriage with leadnut
support block.
block are oversized to allow
for adjustment on the #8
screws. They are made by
drilling the three holes and
cutting away the material
near the end, and filing,
grinding or drilling the
material between the two
Leadnut block
with leadnut.
center holes.
The positions of the leadnuts flange holes are not
dimensioned in the drawing; the holes in the flange
should be used as templates for the holes in this
block.
The large hole through which the leadscrew passes
can be tapped for the threads of a ballnuts flange;
this block replaces the ballnuts commercially
made flange. The large tap for the threads costs
about the same as a commercially made flange.
Make this block now. There is a template for this
in the back of this manual. The leadnut can be
attached to it at this time. The nuts flange may
have to be trimmed to clear the gantry. This
trimming will be done later.
Y Leadnut Block for Y Leadscrew Version

A variety of leadscrews and nuts can be used to
move the carriage; these include tee nuts, Delrin
nuts, and ballnuts. This block should be drilled to
fit the chosen leadnut.
This block can be made of inch plywood,
aluminum, or kitchen cutting board plastic. It
should be stiff; thin material will flex. It is attached
Carriage 39
Y Leadnut block. The 5/8 and 3/16 inch holes

for the leadnut will vary with the chosen nut.
Z Stepper Plate
The stepper hole drawing on page 29 gives more

detail about NEMA 23 stepper face dimensions.
This part can be made at any time. It is installed

during the Z leadscrew assembly. This plate is the
same for all machines.
After the holes are marked, the 1-1/2 inch hole can
be drilled. This hole can be larger as long as the
stepper seats well on the plate.
The Z stepper is mounted

on a plate that is moved to
adjust the pulleys
alignment and the belts
tension.
The edges of the four pairs of 5/16 inch holes

should be smoothed where the holes meet. These
elongated holes permit the plate to be moved on the
threaded rods and carriage bolts for the belts
adjustment.
This plate can be made of

a variety of materials.
One of the prototypes is
made of inch plywood
since this was on hand;
this is thicker than needed.
Other materials that have
proved to work well Z stepper on plate with
belt and pulleys.
include 1/4 inch tempered
hardboard, cutting board
plastic, and 16 gage or thicker aluminum. 3/8 inch
aluminum was used in the aluminum version; this
also acted as a heat sink.
The holes can be cleaned with a rat tail file, or the

drill bit can be rocked in the holes. The holes can
appear rough as long as there is room for the studs
and bolts to move freely.
The plate is 4 x 25/8 inches.

Note that the front
of the carriage is on
the left in the
dimensioned
drawing.
The 3/16 inch
darkened holes are
for the #8-32
screws that tie the
Stepper attachment.
stepper to the plate.
These screw hole
positions are to the nearest 1/16 inch. The holes are
oversized to compensate for this rounded value.
It is easier to use the stepper itself as a template for
these holes. Drill a 1/4 inch hole in the center of the
steppers 1-1/2 inch hole and insert the steppers
shaft in the hole. Mark the steppers mounting hole
locations onto the plate.
Z axis stepper plate. The front of

the carriage is on the left.
There is a template for this plate in the back of this

manual. The steppers screw holes in the template
are not to the nearest 1/16 inch as they are above;
they are positioned true and can be drilled to 11/64
inch.
This plate can be cut and drilled at this time.
It can be attached to the stepper now or later.
The steppers wires should exit the stepper toward
the back or side of the carriage.
Carriage 40
Z Bottom Plate
The Z bottom plate is the same for both the
leadscrew and rack versions of the carriage.
Back of carriage.
This part is inch plywood or 3/8 inch aluminum

that is cut to 3-1/2 x 6 inches and is drilled as
shown. All holes can be 1/4 inch; the dashed lines
mark the position of the back plate.
The tension rods have a tendency to freewheel as
they are being tightened. This can be prevented by
drilling the holes positioned at 3/8 inch from the
left edge to 5/32 inch and tapping them for the #10
tension rods. Alternatively, nuts can be tightened
against both sides of the bottom plate.
Carriage bottom plate. The front of the axis is

toward the right.
Another option is to drill the holes to hold tee nuts.

Tee nut sizes vary; the holes should be drilled for
what is available. The tee nuts should be installed
from the bottom side of the plate.
The rods are fixed into place by tightening nuts
against the bottom of the bottom plate. The threads
in the wood or tee nuts will help to keep the rods
from freewheeling.
Adjustment will then be easier since a wrench will
only be needed at the top of the rods.
Cut and drill this bottom plate now. Nothing more
is done to it at this time. There is a template at the
back of the manual.
Carriage 41
Back view of carriage. Bottom

plate holds trucks and tension
rods.
Attach Sides to Back

The two wooden sides are screwed to the back
plate with four screws each. The screws in the two
top holes also hold the braces that tie the top to the
sides. Right image.
These braces are
unnecessary in the
aluminum version.
After the pilots are drilled into the back plate, the
holes in the sides can be enlarged and countersunk
as needed for the screws.
The top two holes hold the braces; they do not need
to be countersunk.
The top, bottom and back

edges of the sides are flush
with the edges of the back
plate.
The sides are used as
templates for the matching
pilot holes that are drilled
into the edges of the back
plate.
Align the edges and drill the pilot holes. The holes
into the back should be the root diameter of the
attaching screws, or 9/64 inch and tapped for the
#8-32 machine screws.
Finish washers can be used in place of

countersinking, or round head screws with flat
washers can be used.
Braces tie top to sides.

Shown for reference; the
braces are not installed at
this time.
Be sure that the sides are installed right-side-up as

compared to the back plate.
The back plate has two holes near its bottom edge.
After the pilots are drilled and the sides holes are
enlarged, spread glue along the matching wood
surfaces and screw the sides to the back.
Only three screws are used per side at this time.
One of the screws that will hold the braces can be
left out. The single screw is used now for clamping
the glue joint. It will be removed and reinstalled
when the braces are installed.
The side with the leadnut

bracket holes is on the left
side of the carriage.
This is placed on this side
to make it easier to adjust
the leadnut later. The
carriage has to be near the
stepper end of the gantry
for the leadnut adjustment.
Were the leadnut bracket on
the other side of the
carriage, the gantry end
Holes for the Y leadnut
plate would block wrench bracket (circled) are in
access.
the left side. These
Note: The Z rails are tensioned against their

bearings by flexing the sides of the carriage
together. Though the wood can be bent a fair
amount for this future adjustment, care should be
taken at this time to square the sides to the back.
The leadnut bracket holes

are irrelevant on the rack
and pinion Y axis version.
They can be put in later but they have to be

installed before the Z bearing truck is installed.
holes are unnecessary in

the Y rack and pinion
version.
The wood sides are held to the back with 1-5/8 inch
drywall screws or similar. The aluminum sides use
#8-32 x 1 inch machine screws.
The two Y leadnut bracket screws can also be

tightened to the side plate now.
These machine screws are #8-32 x 1-1/4 inch.
Their heads are inside the carriage with their
threads projecting outside.
Their holes are circled in the left image.
The sides can be attached to the back at this time.
Carriage 42
The top and bottom plates are used as templates to

mark the positions of the holes in the back plate.
Studs in Back Plate, Overview

The top and bottom plates are attached to the back
plate with 1/4 inch threaded rod studs that are
screwed and glued into the edges of the back plate.
The top studs also support the Z steppers plate.
The holes in the back plates edges should be

centered so the studs will have a better grip in the
wood.
It is unlikely that the top or bottom plates will fit
perfectly over the studs once the studs are glued
into place. Even when the holes are well placed the
studs tend to offset as they are tightened into the
back plate.
The matching holes in the top and bottom plates
can be enlarged to compensate for this
misalignment.
Section view of stepper and

top plate attachment.
These studs counter the load of the tension rods

and may strip out of the wooden back plate if they
are only threaded into the wood; therefore, the
studs are also glued into place. Glue is unnecessary
in the aluminum version, though Loctite is
recommended.
Section view of the top plate tied to back

plate
The glue used for holding the studs will have to

cure before the plates can be tightened into place.
This will delay work depending on the type of glue
used, but other parts can be built during the wait.
Epoxy was used on the prototypes; it required
overnight curing.
Basic 1/4-20 taps can thread around 1-1/4 inch
deep; therefore, the drilled holes in the back plate
should be at least 1-1/4 inch deep to take full
advantage of the tap.
Half inch deep holes work well with the aluminum
back plate.
Bottom plate tied to back plate
Details for the stud installation are next.

Carriage 43
Stud Installation
Make sure the carriage is right side up. For
reference, there are two holes in the bottom center
of the back plates face.
Align the top plate with the back plate. The matchlines are the dashed lines in the dimensioned
drawings for both versions of the top plates.
The bottom aligns with the sides.
Drill 13/64 inch holes into the top and bottom

edges of the back plate where the marks were just
made.
Tap these holes in the back plate for 1/4-20 studs.
The top overhangs the front of the back

plate, and is flush with the sides.
The sides of the top should align with the outsides

of the side plates. If the sides are not exactly
inch thick the alignment will not be perfect. This is
not a problem. Center the top plate so the offsets
are the same on both sides.
Use the top plate as a template for the two holes
that match the top edge of the back plate, and mark
the holes locations onto the back plates top edge.
Do the same for the bottom plate. The front of the
bottom plate is flush with the front of the back
plate. Mark the holes positions in the bottom edge
of the back plate.
Z bottom plate aligns with the

front of the back plate.
Cut two sections of 1/4-20 threaded rod to 3-3/4

inches long and two to 2-1/4 inch long. These
lengths add up to 12 inches. This is the only 1/4
inch rod used in the wooden machine except for the
optional tie-down clamps shown on the website.
The studs for the aluminum back plate are each 3/4
inch shorter. Excess material can be removed after
the machine is completed; the lengths are not
critical.
Spread epoxy glue or similar onto the threads on
one end of each stud. Cover around an inch of the
threads.
Loctite can be used with the aluminum back plate;
otherwise the studs may vibrate free over time.
Tighten the studs into the back plate. Vise Grips or
a wrench on two nuts that are locked against each
other can be used to tighten the studs. Do not strip
the threads with the Vise Grips, and do not over
tighten the studs. The wood may split or its threads
may strip when over-tightened.
The leftover glue is cleaned from the threads, and
the carriage is set aside while the glue cures.
These four studs can be installed at this time.
Carriage 44
The holes in the ends of the braces mirror each

other from end to end.
Z Side Braces
Braces are installed on each side of the wooden top
plate to prevent it from flexing during aggressive
cuts.
These braces are unnecessary on the aluminum
carriage.
The parts and
installation are the same
for the rack and pinion,
and leadscrew versions
of the carriage.
The bottom holes are 5/8 inch from the long ends.
The top holes are 1-1/8 inch from the long ends,
and 1/8 inch from the short top ends.
Cross check that the distances between the holes
match the ones shown.
Drill holes that match the screws diameter. It is
best for the screws to fit snugly in the holes.
Drywall screws work well; 1-5/8 inch screws were
used in the prototypes sides, and 1-1/8 inch screws
were used in the top.
These braces are made

of 1 x 1/8 inch aluminum
flat bar that is cut to 311/16 inches long.
The braces were
designed on a 1/16 inch
grid to make the
dimensions manageable.
The top holes are 3/16 inch from the top edge, and
the bottom holes are 1/4 inch from the bottom edge.
The braces are symmetrical, so two identical copies

can be made without mirroring them.
Side brace tying the

top to the side.
One can be used as a template for the second one.
Start with a piece of 1 inch flat bar that is 3-11/16

inches long.
The angled ends are 45 degrees; measure 1 inch
from each end to position the top edge and the 45
angles.
Use a 45 combo square if available.
The two pieces can be cut from a 6-1/2 inch long

piece of stock as shown below.
Cut and drill two of these braces now.
Side brace made of 1 x 1/8 aluminum flat bar. Two needed.
Two braces cut from 6-1/2 inch length.
Carriage 45
Install Top
Install Braces
Both versions of the top plate are installed the same

way.
The braces are unnecessary with the aluminum

carriage.
These directions are written for one side. Once one
side of the carriage is completed, repeat the steps
for the other side.
The aluminum braces

are installed
immediately after the
wood top plate is
installed so they can
hold the top true while
the wood glue cures.
Slide the top plate over
the studs; enlarge the
two holes in the top
plate as needed.
The top plate should
be square with the
back plate from both
the top and side.
Remove the screw that is in the top hole in the side

of the side plate. This is the screw that was
temporarily installed as a clamping screw for the
glue.
Pilot hole for side screw.
Spread glue along

the mating wood
surfaces and tighten
nuts with washers
on the studs to
secure the top plate
into place. Check for
square while
tightening.
Brace parallel
with top.
Brace flush with top.
The holes in the aluminum may not exactly match

the holes in the side.
Enlarge the holes in the aluminum as needed so the
screws can be tightened into their holes while the
brace remains aligned with the top plate.
Pilot hole above side.
Use the pilot hole in

the top plate as a guide to drill a pilot in the top
of the left side plate. See drawings above.
Enlarge and countersink the pilot hole in the top
plate as needed and drive a 1-5/8 inch drywall
screw, or similar, into the hole and tighten the top
to the side plate. Use a #8-32 x 1 inch screw in a
tapped 9/64 inch hole in the aluminum version.
This screw helps to hold this one side true as the
tension rods are adjusted. It also helps to prevent
the sides from racking under heavy cutting loads.
Install the top plate now.
Align an aluminum side brace with the top holes in

the side plate, and align the top 45 angle of the
aluminum so it is flush or parallel with the top edge
of the top plate. The position will vary due to the
accumulation of minor offsets.
The holes in the brace can be countersunk for the

screws, or finish washers can be used.
Tighten the two side screws into the brace and side.
Use the top holes in the brace to position and drill
the pilot holes into the top plate.
Check that the top plate is square with the back
plate before drilling.
Tighten the screws into the top plate to tie the
brace into place.
Carriage 46
The prototypes use 1-5/8 and 1-1/8 inch drywall

screws. The shorter screws are for the top plate
connection.
Note: Because of the variation in the plywoods
thickness, the brace may not sit flat as it spans the
side and top plate. This is usually not a problem.
The screws will pull the brace into place. If the gap
is larger, washers can be used as shims underneath
the braces screw holes so the brace will sit flat.
Notching the top plate is an option but it will also
require removing some of the material from the
bearing trucks aluminum angle.
The carriage bolts in the top plate

are in line with the studs.
Install both braces at this time.
Carriage Bolts in Top Plate

Two 1/4-20 x 2-1/2 inch carriage bolts are
installed in the top plate; they support the back of
the stepper plate.
These bolts have to be installed before the top
bearing truck can be installed since their heads are
under the trucks aluminum angle.
The bolts can also be flat head or standard bolts
that are countersunk into the top plate. Studs with
tee nuts will work as well.
Carriage bolts and studs align.
For the aluminum top plate, the holes in the top

plate will have to be enlarged to accept the square
necks of the carriage bolts, or the necks can be
ground off. Also, as mentioned in the Top Plate
section, the holes can be drilled to 13/64 and
tapped for 1/4-20 inch studs.
The heads of the carriage bolts cannot protrude too
far from the top plate or they will interfere with the
bearing truck.
The bolts need to be threaded their entire length so
they can be tightened with nuts to the top plate as
shown in the drawings.
Install these two carriage bolts now. Firmly tighten
the nuts with washers against the top plate.
Carriage 47
Stepper and truck attachment.
The bottom truck is also installed, but the bottom

plate is loosely attached to the back plate.
Install Bottom
The bottom plate is installed the same way as the
top is, but it is not tightened or glued into place.
The bottom bearing truck has to swivel underneath
the gantrys bottom rail when the carriage is put on
the gantry, so this plate must remain loose for now.
Both trucks are attached by the same method.
The front edge of the bottom plate should be flush

with the face of the back plate. The plate should be
square as viewed from the bottom. It will need to
hinge as viewed from the side so it can pull the
bearings into the gantry rails.
The shafts extend through the holes beside the

carriage bolt holes in the top plate, and the
similarly placed holes in the bottom plate.
Front of bottom is flush with

the front of the back plate.
Wooden bottom plate is

flush with the sides.
The trucks are tied to the plates with #8-32 x 1-1/4

inch machine screws. The heads of the screws are
recessed in the aluminum angles.
Washers are used with the nuts. There is play at

this junction for adjustment.
The trucks are positioned with their end bearings
toward the open back of the carriage. This allows
more clearance around the tension rods.
The tension rods will be installed after the carriage
is on the gantry; the rods are shown below for
reference.
This plate can be loosely installed at this time; the

attachment holes can be enlarged for the studs if
needed.
Attaching the plate now will permit the carriage to
sit on its back edges, which can make other
carriage work easier.
Truck with tension rods. The

bearings that are on the ends of the
truck are away from the back plate.
Install Bearing Trucks

The top bearing truck can be installed after the
stepper plates supporting carriage bolts are
tightened into place.
The bottom truck is also positioned

so its back bearings are nearer the
trucks ends.
The aluminum side braces should not pinch the top

truck. File down the truck ends if needed. The
trucks should be able to move so they can be
adjusted on the rails.
Truck attached to top plate.
Carriage bolts and side braces
are not shown.
Loosely install the top and bottom trucks. Check

that the screw heads do not scrape the gantry pipe
rails.
Carriage 48
Z Leadscrew Bottom Bearing Support
Z Bottom Bearing Bracket
These parts can be made at any time, but they need

to be in place to determine the Z rail measurement.
This bracket is made of 1 x 1/8 aluminum angle

because this is an easily found size. The bearing
block overhangs the edge of this piece; the block is
solid enough for this to not be a problem.
This bearing support assembly is made of 1 x 1/8

inch aluminum angle and kitchen cutting board
plastic, or similar.
Plastic is used because it will not tear or split as
wood will, and it is easier to work with than thick
metal.
This part is cut and drilled as shown below.
For clarity, the sides and bottom are not shown in

the drawing below.
The holes in the back of the aluminum angle are
oversized to allow for adjustment.
Leadscrew bottom bearing angle bracket.

The 9/64 inch holes are tapped for #8-32
screws.
The Z leadscrew bearing
assembly against the back plate.
The two 9/64 inch holes are tapped for #8-32 x

3/4 inch machine screws.
These screws hold the bearing block into place as
shown in the left section drawing.
The screws are tightly threaded into the aluminum
angle from the inside of the angle. This will make
it easier to adjust the bearing blocks position since
access to the heads of these machine screws will be
obstructed later.
Cut, drill and tap this bracket now. Tightly screw
the two 3/4 inch screws into place. Loctite can be
used here.
Cross section view of the

Z leadscrew bearing support.
An integral bearing support like the one on the top

plate would not work in this location. Moving the
bottom plate to adjust the Y axis bearings would
also alter the bearing adjustment for the Z
leadscrew. Therefore, this separate bearing block
assembly is necessary.
Attach the bracket to the back plate with #8-32 x

1 inch screws and washers as shown on the left.
Tighten the bracket into place so it is centered on
the back plate and so the bottom edge is parallel
with the bottom of the back and bottom plate. Nuts
are threaded onto these screws to lock them into
place. They will be permanently tightened later.
This angle will overhang the back plate by around
1/4 inch.
This bracket may have to be adjusted later when
the leadscrew is installed.
Carriage 49
Z Leadscrew Bearing Block

This bearing block is made of 3/8 inch thick
kitchen cutting board plastic. The material
machines well and is relatively stiff and stable.
The product is sold in the kitchenware section of
department stores and comes in a variety of
thicknesses and colors. In this shop the cheapest
cutting boards have worked as well as the brand
name ones. The thickness of the product is the
important factor. The stock has to be able to
support the bearing without the shoulder tearing
through.
Bearing block dimensions. It is made of 3/8

inch thick stock. The 1/4 inch holes in this
block are oversized to permit alignment.
The 7/8 inch hole is around 1/4 inch deep. The

shoulder that remains in the plastic has to support
the thrust load that the leadscrew places on the
bearing, so the shoulder should not be too thin.
The 5/8 inch through hole in the block can be
smaller, but it should be no larger. A larger hole
will not support the bearing well, and it can snag
on the 5/8 inch hole in the aluminum bracket.
Bearing block for the bottom

of the Z leadscrew. It is
shown upside-down in this
image.
This block is sized for a bearing with an outside

diameter of 7/8 inch. As mentioned previously this
is a standard size for 5/16 and 3/8 inch bore
bearings. This size hole also supports a 608 skate
bearing well enough. The outside diameter of skate
bearings is 22 mm.
A Forstner bit is used to drill the 7/8 inch hole.
This larger recess should be drilled first; alignment
of the holes will be difficult when the smaller hole
is drilled first.
Forstner bits can be mis-sized by the manufacturer;
some are significantly oversized. Tape can be
wrapped around the bearing to hold it securely
should the hole be too large for a tight fit.
Cut and drill this part now. It can be set aside until
the leadscrew is installed.
Sequence Note
At this time the carriage is glued together and has
the Y trucks installed. The steppers plate is made
but not attached to the carriage. The stepper can be
attached to its plate.
The Z rail and bearing assembly and the Z
leadscrew can be installed next for the version that
uses a leadscrew to move the carriage on the
gantry. For this version, the next section of the
manual for the Y pinion is ignored. Skip to page
54.
For machines that use a rack and pinion to move
the carriage on the gantry, proceed to the section
that begins on the next page. The carriage has to be
on the gantry to complete the rack and pinion
assembly, but the components can be made and
loosely installed beforehand.
Carriage 50
Rack and Pinion, Z Top Plate

Overview
The following drawings are of the Y pinion system;
other carriage parts are not shown for clarity.
These components can only be adjusted after the
carriage is on the gantry, and the gantry is on the X
rails. However, it is easier to loosely install these
components while the carriage is off of the gantry.
Top plate with the recesses for the pinion

bearing and the carriage bolts.
These pinion components should be in place before

the Z stepper is installed; the 36 tooth pulley is
underneath the Z steppers plate as shown below.
Pinion components on the top plate.

No other components are shown for clarity.
The top plate assembly with

both Y and Z steppers.
The pinion system consists of the stepper with a 12

tooth pulley. This turns a 36 tooth pulley which is
attached to the pinions axle. The pinion has 15
teeth.
The belt that ties the pulleys together is tensioned
with a shop-made idler.
The pinions axle rotates in two bearings. The top
bearing is pressed into the recess in the top plate
that is directly below the 36 tooth pulley.
The Y pinion components on the

carriages top plate.
The lower bearing is supported by a bearing block

that is held into place with 5/16-18 carriage bolts.
The heads of the carriage bolts are also recessed in
the top plate below the 36 tooth pulley.
Two pairs of 3/8 inch nuts with washers serve as
spacers on the 5/16 inch carriage bolts.
These nuts and washers are between the top plate
and the bearing block; the number of washers will
vary from machine to machine.
Rack and Pinion Carriage 51
The oversized nuts make it easier to tension all of

the pinions axle components together without
having to tighten a series of smaller nuts.
The bearings are positioned so they are held in
place by the pinion and the 36 tooth pulley. One
bearing abuts the pinion and the other abuts the
pulley. Image below.
Pinion Bearing Block

The pinions bottom bearing block is made of
plastic or metal. Material from a 3/8 inch thick
kitchen cutting board works well for this; wood
tends to loosen over time. The stock should be
thick enough for the bearing to rest against a
shoulder in the block. The bearings 7/8 inch hole
cannot extend all of the way through the block.
Y pinion bearing block. It is shown

upside-down in this drawing.
The pinion axle with its bearings. This section is shown
as though viewed through the stepper.
Side view of pinion components.
The 7/8 inch diameter recess for the bearing is

drilled with a Forstner bit as is done for the bearing
recesses in the top plate and Z bottom bearing
block. Around 1/8 inch of shoulder should be left
between the 7/8 and 5/8 inch holes. It is best for the
bearing to be flush with the bottom of the block.
The washers on the carriage bolts may overlap the
bearing.
Y pinion bearing block dims. The bearing

recess is off center; the narrower edge
faces the rack.
Note that the holes in the bearing block are not

centered. The clearance between the gantrys top
rail and this block is close, so the holes are offset
toward one long edge.
This block tensions the pinion against the rack, so
it needs to be sturdy, especially on the side that is
away from the rack.
Pinion in rack
This block can be cut and drilled at this time.

Pinion Axle
The pinions axle is made of a 3/8 inch rod or bolt
that is cut to 3-5/8 inches. There should be no bolt
threads on the shaft when a bolt is cut to length; the
rod should fit tightly in the bearings. It is
worthwhile to have the bearings on hand when
purchasing this axles material. Hardware store
components vary in diameter even though they
have the same nominal dimensions. A loose fit will
contribute to backlash.
Foil tape can be used to shim an undersized axle.
This tape is sold as commercial quality duct
insulation tape.
The axle can also be distorted with a series of
indentations made with a center punch. Loctite can
be used to help firm the connection between the
bearing and the axle after parts are in position.
Install the pinion so its bottom is flush with the end

of the axle. Tighten a set screw enough to hold the
pinion in place. The pinion may have to be repositioned later.
Press the bearing block over the top of the bearing.
Insert two 5/16-18 x 2 inch carriage bolts into the
top plates recesses that are next to the bearing
recess. See page 134 for the aluminum version.
A portion of the carriage bolts heads may have to
be ground down so the bolts will not interfere with
the top bearing. Use the top bearing to check for fit
but do not press the bearing deeply into its recess;
the bearing will have to be slid over the axle later.
Slide a washer, two 3/8 inch nuts and another
washer onto each carriage bolt.
Slide the bearing block with its bearing and axle
onto the carriage bolts.
The bearing block should be oriented with the
bearing near the gantry pipe rail. The thicker
portion of the block should be toward the back of
the top plate. Below image.
Install axle, bearing block, and

carriage bolts with nuts and washers.
Using epoxy glue as a filler is not recommended.

The bearing is unlikely to set-up exactly square to
the axle and it will wobble as the axle turns.
Bearing block with thicker side away from rail.

Bearing is close to rail.
The axle can be cut to 3-5/8 inches long at this

time.
Loosely install the 5/16 inch nuts with washers to

hold the larger nuts and bearing block into place.
Assembly
Press the top bearing over the axle and into its
recess in the top plate.
This can be done with the carriage off of the

gantry, but the carriage has to be on the gantry
before these parts are finally tightened into place.
This is all that can be done with the carriage off of

the gantry.
The bottom bearing is installed on the axle first.

Press the axle into the 7/8 inch OD 3/8 inch bore
bearing. Leave an inch for the pinion extending
beyond the bottom of the bearing.
It is easier to install the Z rails with the carriage off

of the gantry; therefore, the Z rails are covered
next.
Z Rails
The Z rail system is similar to the gantrys rail
system; it also uses 608 bearings tied to aluminum
angle with 1 inch bolts.
The two rails are tied together with aluminum
angle cross ties; the leadnut is attached to one of
the ties.
Construction begins with the Z bearing trucks; the
sizes of the other components are determined by
the way the rails ride in these bearings.
Z Bearing Trucks
Tension rods
positions.
The holes for the #8 machine screws which tie the

trucks to the side plates are positioned to match the
existing holes in the side plates.
As with the Y trucks, the heads of the 5/16-18
bearing axle bolts will have to be filed, ground or
sanded flush with the backs of the angles so they
will rest flat against the side plates.
The Z bearings are similar to the

Y bearings, but they are made
from 3/4 inch angle rather than 1
inch angle. This is done so the
rails will sit closer to the sides of
the carriage, which gives more
clearance for the Z leadnut
assembly.
The construction directions from the Y axis trucks

on page 21 apply to these trucks as well.
After the trucks are completed, they are attached to
the sides of the Z carriage with four #8-32 x 1-1/4
inch machine screws.
The two aluminum angles are cut

to the same height as the Z sides,
and they are drilled as shown. One
angle mirrors the other.
The bearings are offset to allow
clearance for the tension rods.
The top tension rod will be above
the top outside bearings. The
bottom tension rod will be below
the bottom inside bearings.
The tension rods are above

the top bearings and below
the bottom back bearings.
The endmost bearings are on the bottom outside

and top inside.
Z rails with
bearing trucks.
The trucks are attached fairly firmly to the sides so

measurements can be taken for the cross ties. Final
alignment will be done after the carriage is on the
gantry.
Aluminum angle for Z trucks. Two required; They mirror each other.
Carriage 54
Cut, drill, assemble and install these bearing trucks

at this time. Remember, the two units are mirror
images of each other.
The Y leadnut block screws have to be in place on
the left side of the carriage before the left bearing
truck can be installed. The left truck covers one of
these holes. The two screws for the leadnut block
are #8-32 x 1-1/4 inch.
Leadnut Travel
The leadnuts travel distance is restricted by the
bearings on each end of the leadscrew. The travel
is also decreased by the size of the leadnut itself.
See the drawing below.
Z Rails
The Z rails are made of
inch ID (Inside Diameter) gas
pipe; this has an outside
diameter of a little less than
7/8 inch.
The pipes are drilled and
tapped for #8-32 x inch
screws which secure 1 inch
aluminum angle cross ties to
the pipes.
Z rails with cross

ties and router
mount.
Maximum leadnut travel.
On the wood prototypes the distance between the

bearing supports is close to 10 inches.
The length of the leadnut is around an inch.
Therefore, the maximum travel is 9 inches. The
aluminum gantry version is inch longer.
Tie screwed to pipes.
Rails and Bearing Spacing

Determine Rail Length
The length of the rails is defined by the distance the
leadnut can travel, and the space between the top
and bottom truck bearings.
The minimum length of the rails is also based on

the distance between the top and bottom bearings.
This length of pipe is lost; it is needed simply to
span the gap between the bearings.
These two values are usually the same because

they depend on the height of the carriage. However
the derivation is addressed here for those who are
building machines that stray from these plans.
The bearing trucks are the same length as the back

and side plates. On the wood prototype this is
around 10 inches and on the aluminum version it is
near 10-1/2 inches.
Carriage 55
The axles of the top and bottom bearings are inset

inch from the ends of the truck angle, so the
axles and centers of the bearings are 9 inches apart
for the wood and 9-1/2 inches for the aluminum.
Therefore, a minimum of 9 (or 9-1/2) inches of
rail is required to compensate for the distance
between the bearings.
Note: Pipes of 36 inches are usually threaded at

each end. When cut in half for the rails, the
threaded ends can be positioned at the bottom of
the axis. This way the bearings will only ride on
the threads when the axis is fully retracted.
Also note that drilling and tapping the threaded
section can be challenging.
Making the pipes longer will allow more leeway in
construction, and an extra couple of inches will not
affect performance.
Shorter pipes will also work, but they will not take
full advantage of the leadnuts travel.
Image below: The rails can go

no lower without falling off of
the top back bearings.
Cut and Drill Pipes

The pipes are cut to the length that was determined
in the previous sections.
After the pipes are cut, drill one hole in each end of
the two pipe rails. The holes are 9/64 inch in
diameter and are tapped for #8-32 machine screws.
These holes are 5/16 inch from the ends of the
rails. See image on the following page.
The holes in each pipe should be in line with each
other so the screws will project from the pipes in
the same direction.
The rails can go no

higher without falling
off of the bottom front
bearings.
It is easier to drill all of the remaining holes in the

pipes after the end ties have been installed.
Cut the pipes, drill and tap the single hole in each
end at this time.
This means that 9 inches of rail length has to be

added to the desired travel distance of the leadnut.
The cross ties will be made next.
The leadnuts travel is also 9 inches. This gives a

total of 18 inches of minimum rail length.
This will be near 19 inches for the aluminum
version.
This 18 inches, conveniently, is one half of a 36
inch length of pipe, which is frequently an off the
shelf size.
Carriage 56
The drawing below is a guide and should not be

copied without first checking the dimensions as
explained in the following sections.
It is easier to use the components themselves to
mark the hole locations than it is to measure the
distances on the pipes.
Cross Ties Overview

The cross ties are made of 1 x 1/8 inch aluminum
angle and flat bar. Three are made of angle rather
than flat bar because flat bar will flex under the
loads. However one tie is made of flat bar to allow
clearance for the router-spindle.
Cross tie on rails as viewed with the

top and bottom plates removed.
The corners of the angles are removed to allow

clearance for the Z bearings. The fit is close as
shown. Removing the corners from all of the ties
also allows the rail assembly to be completely
removed from the carriage without the need to
remove the bearings as well. This greatly simplifies
the construction process.
As shown below, the ties and rails pass closely to
the top plates projection for the Z bearing and
pulley.
The cross tie passes close to the

top plate and the bearings.
Hole locations in rails drilled to 9/64 and

tapped for #8-32 screws. Hole locations are
approximate and will vary with each
machine.
Some of the top plates stock can be removed if the

parts collide.
This should only be necessary with components
that are sized differently from those specified. The
bearings and rails can also be moved farther from
the back plate to gain more clearance.
Carriage 57
All of the ties are attached to the rails with two

screws in each end. The pairs of screws keep the
rails from racking. A plate could be used instead of
the ties, but wide aluminum stock is usually not a
hardware store item.
The finished ties are shown below, the images are
for reference and should not be cut or drilled yet.
The dimensions will vary; their derivation is
addressed next.
Tie Length
The length of the ties depends on the distance
between the bearings.
This will vary from the prototypes due to the
accumulation of minor offsets. Therefore, the
dimensions have to be determined as follows.
Note: The #8 machine screws that hold the Z
bearing trucks into the carriages sides should be
fairly tight at this time; they can be loosened later
for adjustments.
Top tie with approximate dimensions.
Measure the distance between the bearings. See

image below. This measure on the prototype was
rounded up to 3-1/8 inches. Values can be rounded
up to the nearest 1/16 inch.
Measure both the top and bottom bearings sets, use
the largest value.
The tension rods will pull the components together
later, so absolute precision is unnecessary.
The mid-section tie. The slot is for the

leadnut connection.
Measure the distance between the bearings. The

top plate is not shown for clarity. It should be in
place at this time of construction.
Flat bar tie. It supports the top of

the router mount.
Bottom Tie. The holes near the center

are for the router mount.
The ties will be the length

that was just measured,
less 1/16 inch. This will
give 1/32 inch on each
end of the ties for
clearance around the
bearings. The ties can be
filed later if they rub the
bearings.
It is important for the ties
to be as long as possible.
The heads of the machine
screws should seat tightly
Carriage 58
The machine screws

should be as close as
possible to the edges of
the ties. They should pull
the ties straight toward
the center of the pipe.
against the ties with no, or just a fraction of

overhang on the edges.
The 1 x 1/8 inch angle stock is cut into three cross
ties. The one flat bar tie is cut from 1 x 1/8 flat
stock. See the Aluminum Note on page 122 before
cutting these pieces; it is possible to use other
stock so there will be less material leftover.
Hole Placement
The holes in the ends of the ties must align with the
centers of the rails so the screws will pull the ties
straight into the rails. Also, the heads of the screws
must be pulled flat against the surface of the ties.
The three angle ties and the one flat tie can be cut
to length now. Their length is the distance between
the bearings less 1/16 inch.
Remove Tie Corners

The angle ties corners can be cut off once the ties
are cut to length.
Only the one legs corners are cut; the leg that will
attach to the rails is not cut. See images below.
The cut angle is 45 degrees.
Measure distance between pipe centers.

The distance will vary from the one shown.
Find the distance between the rails centers. Press

the rails into the bearings and measure the center
distance. See above image.
This distance, the 2-3/4 inches in the drawing, is
the distance apart that the centers of the holes in
the ties should be. Figures below.
Do not cut the ties like this.

Do not bevel the surface.
Top cross tie. The circled dimension

is a fraction less than 3/16 inch.
Cut the ties like this, with the

surface edges square.
The 45 angle cuts do not have to be exact. The

metal is cut to allow clearance around the bearings.
As shown in the drawings there is room for
variation. The corners could be notched rather than
cut at an angle.
Cut off the corners of the legs of all three ties at
this time.
Carriage 59
Bottom cross tie.
Transfer this measure to the ties and mark the holes

so their distance from the edges of the tie is equal.
This edge distance shown in the drawings is 3/16
inch. This is a rounded value, it is actually a
fraction less. The 2-3/4 inch measure is the
primary measure; the edge distance will be adjusted
to fit.
Drill holes in the corners of the top and bottom ties
as shown in the bottom right images on the
previous page.
Also drill the two other holes in the face of the
bottom tie. These two holes are equidistant from
the ends of the tie, and should be 1-1/4 inch apart.
The matching holes in the ends of the pipes have
already been drilled and tapped.
Note: Once completed, the rail structure is solid;
however, it can be challenging to work with all of
the loose parts.
To ease construction, it is easier to install the top
and bottom ties first, and to hold them in place with
only one screw in each end. See image in right
column.
The other screws and ties can then be positioned
and attached with the top and bottom ties holding
the assembly together.
Measure and drill the holes in the two ties as just
described.
Attach Ties to Rails

Screw the ties to the pipes with #8-32 x inch
screws. Align the pipes so they are square with the
ties, and tighten the assembly together.
Slide the rails into the bearings and check that they
fit well. A small amount of looseness or tension is
not a problem.
If there is over 1/16 inch of play, enlarge the screw
holes in the ties as needed, and re-tighten and retest for fit.
Once the fit is correct, drill

the remaining holes in the top
and bottom ties, and drill the
matching holes in the rails
while the ties are screwed in
place on the rails. This
process is addressed in the
following section.
The images of the ties in the
Cross Tie Overview section
on page 58 show the
approximate positions of all
of the end holes in the ties.
These remaining holes should
match the final actual position
of the rails and ties, not the
measured dimensions in the
drawings.
With care they can be aligned
by eye. Again, the holes
should be positioned so the
screws will pull toward the
center of the rails.
Top and bottom ties

held in place with two
screws each.
Drill Holes in Ties and Pipes

With the ties attached to the rails, and the rails
square to the ties, drill 9/64 inch holes all of the
way through both the ties and rails. Enlarge the
holes in the ties to 11/64 inch. Take care not to
drill into the rails.
Tap the holes in the rails; the ties are left in place
for this work. The tap will go through the
larger holes in the ties.
Attach the top and bottom ties firmly to the rails at
this time. Tighten all four screws per tie into place.
Carriage 60
Leadnut Cross Tie
Leadnut Support Bar
The leadnut is attached to the axis with a cross tie

and a piece of 1 x 1/8 inch flat bar.
The leadnut is attached to a piece of 1 x 1/8 inch

flat bar; the flat bar is connected to the leadnut
cross tie.
Looking down onto the

l eadnut as sembly. A
machine screw, and a nut
and washer, tie the flat bar
to a slot in the cross tie.
Looking up at the leadnut.

The leadnuts flange is
below the flat bar.
The cross tie is similar to the top and bottom ties

with the addition of a slot in one leg which permits
adjustment of the leadnuts position.
The flat bar can be thicker; 1/8 inch stock was

used since it is a hardware store item, and this
same sized stock is used for other components.
The flat bar is 2-3/8 inches long, and the center of
the leadnut hole is 9/16 inch from one end and 113/16 inches from the other. These two holes are 15/16 inches apart. Image below.
The tie for the leadnut is slotted to allow for

adjustment. The position of the four corner holes
is approximate.
This tie was cut to length when the top and bottom
ties were cut.
The slot can be drilled and filed at this time.
Three 3/16 inch holes for the slot are drilled at the
positions shown in the drawing above. They are
centered end to end. The remaining stock between
the holes is then filed to make the slots walls
smooth.
The position of the tie on the rails will be
determined later. Therefore, do not drill the four
holes for the rail-to-tie screws yet.
Drill and file the slot in the tie at this time.
Leadnut support made

of flat bar.
The holes for the leadnuts flange and the diameter

of the inch hole will vary depending on the
leadnut used.
The hole in the flat bar only has to be large enough
for the leadscrew when the leadnut points down.
The less material removed the stiffer the bar will
be.
Carriage 61
The leadnut can be a tee nut or a specialty antibacklash nut. The holes in the drawings are sized
for a 3/8 inch Delrin nut.
It is easier to drill the holes in the flange of the tee
nut or leadnut, and then use these holes to position
the matching holes in the flat bar.
The leadnut should be installed with its flange
below the flat bar. With this positioning the axis
cannot fall should the machine screws work loose.
The bracket is also below the cross tie for the same
reason. Its single mounting screw could be removed
and the axis would not fall, though backlash would
be considerable.
The drawing below shows another option for the
flat bar.
This second bar has three extra threaded holes that

support machine screws. These screws can be
tightened against the cross tie to adjust the
orientation of the leadnut on the leadscrew.
Nuts are on the three adjusting screws to lock them
into place.
The leadnuts flat bar rocks on a washer that is on
the center screw. This washer is sandwiched
between the cross tie and flat bar; this washer is
only used in the three extra screw system.
In the single screw flat bar, there is no washer
between the tie and flat bar. The tie and flat bar are
tightened directly to each other.
The center screw in both systems is tightened into
the threads in the flat bar; a nut with washer
tightens the flat bar into place in the slot in the tie.
Threading this machine screw into the flat bar
makes adjustment easier since the screw will not
freewheel.
The three screw rocking system is used to
compensate for a variety of offsets.
Leadnut support with holes for

adjustment screws. All darkened
holes are tapped.
The aluminum angle stock used for the cross tie,

and the tee nuts used for leadnuts are not always
square. The rocking system is used in these
situations to adjust the nut so it does not cause
excess drag on the leadscrew.
The Delrin leadnuts tend to be flat and square and
usually do not require the adjusting screws; the
single center screw in the flat bar is sufficient.
Shims made from soft drink cans or similar, are
another option that can be used in place of the
machine screws for adjusting the angle of the
leadnut.
Three adjustment screws with

nuts are used to align the leadnut
on the leadscrew. They press
against the bottom of the cross tie.
The leadnut is held to the bar with #8-32 or #6

screws depending on the size of the leadnut. The
other screws are all #8-32 x inch.
At this time, the leadnuts flange can be drilled for
its mounting screws, and the support bar can be cut
and drilled.
Carriage 62
The leadnut can be tightly screwed to the flat bar,

and the flat bar can be loosely attached to the cross
tie. Make sure that the leadscrew will not chafe on
the flat bar as the leadscrew passes through the
leadnut.
Positioning this flat bar and its cross tie on the rails
is next.
Attach Leadnut Tie to Rails

The leadnuts cross tie will be attached to the rails
with four screws, just as the top and bottom ties
were.
The position of the cross
tie has to be determined
so the pipes will not
derail, and the axis can
take full advantage of the
maximum travel.
Position the tie so it is

between the marks if they
are not at the same place.
Hold the tie in place and
move the rails to check
that the leadnuts position
and rails movement are
correct.
It is usually better to
place extra pipe, if there
is any, above the axis so
the leadnut will be nearer
the router. The shorter the
distance between the
leadnut and the router the
less material there is to
flex.
Place the rails into the

bearings. Only the top
and bottom ties are
attached to the rails. The
bottom tie has two extra
holes in it. See image on
right.
Pipes as high as they can

go without derailing.
Leadnut abuts the top of
the carriage.
Be sure the tie is centered so it will not hit the

bearings. Drill the four holes in the tie and rails and
tap the rails just as was done with the other cross
ties. Attach the leadnuts tie.
Move the rails as far

down as possible before
they derail from the top
bearings.
P la ce the lea dnut
assembly on the rails so
the leadnut touches the
b ot t om lea ds cr ew
bearing bracket. Right Pipes as low as possible
before derailing. Leadnut
image.
Mark the ties position
on the rails.
Move the rails as far up

as possible and repeat the
process with the leadnut
assembly touching the top
plate. Mark the ties
position on the rails.
Figure on right.
The router-spindle mount is installed next. This

operation is easier with the rails removed from the
carriage.
The leadnuts flat bar will have to be detached
from the tie for the rails to be removed.
abuts bottom leadscrew

bearing support.
Carriage 63
Spindle Mount Overview
Neither wood nor plastics are recommended for

this plate; it carries a heavy load and any flex will
contribute to bit chatter.
The router-spindle mount should be constructed

before the Z rails are installed on the carriage. It is
easier to work with the rail assembly when it is
independent of the carriage.
The straps wrap completely around the flat bar and

are tensioned against the router with 1/4 inch bolts
with nuts and washers.
The spindle used with the prototypes is a Makita

RF1101 router. This was chosen because it has
received good reviews and is noted as being one of
the quieter models available.
The band-straps abut the bottom angle tie and the

top flat tie. Placing the bands close to the cross ties
helps to prevent the vertical flat bar from bending.
Figure below.
Other routers will work just as well and can be

attached in a manner similar to the method shown
here. The router should be on hand so the size,
shape and position of the band straps and cradles
can be checked against the tool itself. The depth of
the cradle has to be sized so the routers top does
not press against the rails.
The straps wrap behind the flat bar.

The straps abut the top and bottom
cross ties.
Router mount made of flat bar

and band clamps.
The router mount is made of 1 x 1/8 inch

aluminum flat bar, band strap from plumbing pipe
supports, and crescent shaped cradles that are cut
from wood. Figure above.
These components were chosen because they are
found at home centers. A larger aluminum back
plate could easily be used instead of the 1 x 1/8 flat
bar but this is usually not a hardware store item.
Carriage 64
Dimensions of the router mount assembly. The

straps shown are spaced for a router with a 3-1/2
inch high housing-to-base section.
It is easier to use the flat tie to determine the
locations of the holes in the rails than to use the
dimensions shown.
Spindle Cradles
The cradles are made of 1 inch (nominal) wood
which has an actual thickness of 3/4 inch.
The cradle has to be deep enough to prevent the top

of the router from resting against the rails. The
circled 1/4 inch dimension shown below may have
to be altered when a different router is used.
MDF will also work for the cradles but it has a

tendency to split. It can be glued back together if it
does. The bands and the router itself will usually
press the cradles into shape and prevent further
splitting.
The crescent cuts were made with a 3-1/4 inch hole
saw. They can of course also be cut with a jig saw,
band saw, or coping saw. They can be sanded to fit
tightly against the routers housing.
Cradle dimensions. Multiple measures are given for cross

checking and to give comparative measures so alterations
will be easier.
The ends of the cradles are angled so they will

clear the bearings.
The back edges of the cradles are 2-3/8 inches
long. The flat bars outside edges will be 2-1/4
inches apart. This difference allows the band
straps to pull tightly against both the flat bars and
the cradles. This difference is circled below.
Cradles are made of wood. They prevent

the router from rocking in the band
clamps.
The diameter of the crescent should be as close as

possible to that of the router. However, the
flexibility of the wood will permit a small amount
of variation; the band clamps will pull minor
offsets to shape.
Band strap wraps the cradle and the flat bars.
The cradle extends a fraction beyond the
outside edges of the flat bars.
The holes in the cradle are recessed so

the screw heads do not chafe the router.
The cradles can be roughed-out and then sanded to

fit. Again, the softness of the wood will forgive
minor discrepancies when the cradles are clamped
into place.
The two cradles can be cut and drilled now.
Carriage 65
Vertical Flat Bar
Flat Bar Cross Tie
The straps wrap a pair of vertical 1 x 1/8 inch

aluminum flat bars. These bars are tied to the cross
ties with machine screws.
The flat bar cross tie was cut to length when the
angle ties were cut.
The length of these vertical flat bars is determined

by the section of the router that will be clamped.
It is best for the band clamps to be as far apart as
possible on the router.
These bars are sized for a router that has a 3-1/2
inch high clamping section on its motor housing.
These two flat bars can be cut and drilled at this
time.
Flat bar cross tie. The corner holes

should be aligned with the pipe rails.
The two holes on the center line are drilled for #832 x inch machine screws which tie the vertical
bars to this tie.
The holes in the edges are drilled to match the
pipes, just as was done with the leadnut tie.
The process for positioning the holes follows:
Drill the two holes that are 1-1/4 inch apart in this
tie. Do not drill the four corner holes yet.
Loosely attach the tops of the two vertical flat bars
to this tie with the machine screws and nuts.
Loosely attach the bottom of
the vertical ties to the bottom
angle tie that is already on
the pipe rails. Use #8-32 x
inch machine screws with
nuts.
Vertical flat bars.
Note: These four screws

may hit the Z leadscrew
bottom bearing mount. The
screws can be installed with
their heads on the back of
the axis to give clearance, or
the threads can be filed later
if needed.
Carriage 66
Cross tie and vertical

flat bars attached
to the pipes.
Tighten the four machine screws enough for the top

flat bar tie to hold position. These screws will have
to be loosened later to install the straps; therefore,
they should not be permanently tightened at this
time. Put the pipe rails in the carriage and check
that the flat bar tie will clear the bottom bearings.
Drill 9/64 inch holes through the corners of the
cross tie and into the pipe rails.
Enlarge the holes in the tie to 11/64 inch and tap
the matching holes in the rails. This is the same
process as was done with the leadnut tie.
Use #8-32 x inch machine screws to attach the
tie to the rails. These four screws do not have to be
removed later and can be tightened into place now.
Drill and attach this tie at this time.
Router Band Straps

These two straps are cut from pipe hanger strap.
This material is around
1/16 inch thick and 3/4 inch
wide. It is found in the
plumbing section of home
centers where it is pre-bent
for differently sized pipes.
It has holes, bends and
twists in it. The holes can
be ignored and the twists
can be pounded out.
Router support straps bent
to shape. A 1/4 x 1-1/2
Two feet of strap is needed; inch bolt clamps them

one long hanger strap can around the router.
supply enough material for
both pieces.
This strap is not the thin material that is sold in
rolls and sometimes called plumbers tape.
That material is too thin to hold a full sized router

well.
Other types of strap will work including band
clamps, and tie down strap.
The band clamps can be opened and bent around
the vertical bars. A problem with band clamps is
the slots that serve as threads can strip when firmly
tightened.
The tie down strap is used in home construction
and is sometimes called mobile home tie down
strap or hurricane strap, and is available in varying
widths and lengths. It is stiff and challenging to
bend.
The strap for the Makita router is cut to 12 inches
and bent at the lines shown in the dimensioned
drawing at the bottom of the page.
It is easier to drill the holes before bending the
material.
The material is clamped in a vise with the jaws on
the bend line, and the strap is bent with a hammer.
The bends near the center of the strap can be
compared to the edges
of the cradles for the
angle.
The bends at the ends
are near 90 degrees.
This angle can be
determined by eye; the
tensioning bolts will The sharp angles are bent
pull the bends to first; then the curves are
formed.
shape.
The curves in the straps are partially formed by
holding the strap in a vise and bending it with a
hammer or pliers. The final bending can be done
later when the straps are installed on the axis. The
router itself can be used as the template.
Bend lines and holes in the router mounting straps. Two straps are needed.
Carriage 67
A section of threaded rod can be used to span the

tension bolt holes to pull the ends together. Once
the ends are close together, the strap can be held
into place with pliers while the tension bolt and its
nut and washers are installed.
The tension bolts should be threaded their entire
length to allow a longer range of adjustment.
Carriage bolts may be the only fully threaded
option available; they work well.
The router band straps can be made at this time.
The final rounded bends will be done after
assembly, which is covered next.
Router Mount Assembly

The cradles, vertical bars, cross tie and straps have
been made and are ready to be put together. The
cross tie is already attached to the pipe rails.
Loosen the screws that hold
the vertical bars to the bottom
angle tie. Remove the top
screws that attach the vertical
bars to the flat cross tie.
The screws can be flat or round head. Washers can

be used should the screw heads pull too deeply into
the cradles.
Insert long #8 screws through the cradles, the
vertical flat bars and the straps.
Enlarge or re-drill any of the holes as needed so the
screws can pass through the components. The drill
bit can be driven through the entire stack of parts
while one screw is in place.
Put washers and nuts on the screws as they extend
through the backs of the straps.
After all four screws are
loosely installed and the
components are aligned,
tighten the assembly
together. Also tighten
the vertical bars to the
cross ties.
Place the rails into the Z
bearings and check for
Completed router mount.
clearance around the
bearings and the Z
leadscrew bottom bearing support.
Adjust, file or grind the ties and screws as
necessary so the rails move without interference.
Slide the router mounting

straps over the vertical bars.
Re-install the two screws that
hold the vertical bars to the
flat tie. They are not
permanently tightened yet.
The router straps can be bent to their final shape at

this time. This can be done with the rails removed
from the carriage while using the router body as the
form.
Note: The screws that tie the Remove top screws so

cradles to the straps and bands can be slid over
vertical bars will ultimately be vertical bars.
around 5/8 inch long. However
it is easier to use longer screws and tighten them to
pull the components together.
It is difficult to press all of the parts into place
while installing the nuts on the tails of shorter
screws.
The longer screws can be cut or filed to length once
they are installed.
Carriage 68
Tension Rods
On the wood prototypes the total is12 inches. The

extra inch makes it easier to assemble the parts.
The tension rods are #10 threaded rods that are cut
to length. Their purpose is to pull the bearings
against the rails.
The tension rods will be adjusted over the life of

the machine to compensate for wear and the
flattening of the rails.
Two pairs of rods are

used. One set spans the
top and bottom plates.
They tension the Y
bearings against
the
gantry rails by pulling
the bottom plate upward.
Right image.
The tension for the Y rods is adjusted when the

carriage is on the gantry; they will be installed
later.
The rods can be cut to length at this time.
Installation instructions for the Z rods follow the
next Extension Bracket section.
The other pair of rods

spans the front of the
carriage and tensions the
Z bearings against their
rails by pulling the sides The tension rods on the
back of the carriage pull the
together.
top and bottom plate
A pair of extension
brackets can be used
with the top front
tension rod to allow
more clearance for the
leadnut cross tie.
They may not be
necessary on all
machines. They are
addressed in the next
section.
together.
Tension Rod Extension Brackets

These brackets are not mandatory but they allow
more clearance between the leadnuts cross tie and
the tension rod. This permits a little more upward
travel, and grants easier access to the leadnut bars
adjustment nut.
The brackets are cut from
a section of 1 x 1/8 inch
flat bar and are drilled as
shown.
The length of the Z

front rods is the outside The front tension rods pull the Z
width of the side plates bearings into the rails by pulling
(6 inches) plus one the sides together.
inch for the nuts and
washers that will be on the ends of the rods. Any
extra length of the rods can be cut off after the
table is completely assembled. It is difficult to start
the nuts on the rods if the rods are initially cut to
their final length.
The length of the Y rods on the back of the carriage
is the distance from the top of the top plate to the
bottom of the bottom plate, plus 1 inch.
They are installed with

machine screws in the Optional bracket for the top
tension rods hole in the Z tension rod. Make two.
top of the side plates. The
tension rod is held in the second hole in the bracket.
Top front tension rod in brackets.
These two brackets can be made and attached to

the top of the carriage at this time.
Carriage 69
Adjust Z Tension Rods and Bearings
Sequence Note
The Y rods cannot be installed until the carriage is

on the gantry.
The front Z rods should be installed and adjusted
before the Z leadscrew is installed.
The Z rails and bearings have to be aligned before

the Z leadscrew can be installed.
Slide the Z rail assembly into its bearings and

check for smooth travel.
Adjust the bearings as needed by loosening their #8
mounting screws and moving the bearings on the
side plates. The rails and bearings should be
parallel to the back plate.
Insert the two Z tension rods into their holes in the
side plates or brackets, and thread nuts with
washers onto each end.
Tighten the nuts against the side plates to pull the
bearings into the rails.
The bearings are tight enough when they can barely
be kept from turning by gripping them with fingers.
There is a range of tension between too tight where
the bearings will be overloaded, and too loose
where the rails will not ride securely. It is usually
better to err to being slightly tight.
Over time the bearings will press flat tracks into
the rails. The tension rods can be adjusted to
compensate for this. The flattening process will
slow as the tracks widen and give the bearings a
larger surface to ride.
The rails should move freely inside the bearings
and fall under their own weight. However they do
not have to move with absolutely no drag.
This is mentioned because many DIY forums speak
of the rails moving extremely easily and coasting
forever. This is unnecessary, and from experience
here, the rails are too loose when they move that
easily. The looseness contributes to chatter.
Adjust the Z rails, bearings and Z tension rods
now.
One or both of the Z tension rods may have to be

removed to adjust the Z leadscrew. This is not a
problem. The rods were previously installed to
check that the rails were aligned with the bearings.
When re-installing the tension rods, the bearing to
rail tension is again checked by gripping the
bearings with fingers.
Z Leadscrew, Overview
The Z leadscrew can be installed after the rails are
aligned in the bearings.
The leadscrew is supported by two bearings, one is
in the top plate and the other is in the bearing block
at the bottom of the
carriage.
As discussed in the
System Comparisons
section on page 111, a
variety of leadscrews
will wor k. T he
prot ot yp es used
Allthread and Acme rod
for the Z. The process is
the same for both types.
3/8-10 2 start Acme
leadscrews have worked
well.
A hubbed or hub-less
pulley will work with the
leadscrew. However it is
Leadscrew components
in carriage.
much easier to access
the set screws with a
hubbed pulley. The belt blocks the set screws on a
hub-less pulley.
A hubbed pulley can be positioned so the hub abuts
the bearing. In this position the pulleys flanges
will not rub against the bearing or top plate.
Carriage 70
It is possible to use a leadscrew that does not have

smoothly machined ends. However set-screws do
not lock well against the threads of the leadscrew.
A flat should be filed on the leadscrew for the setscrews to seat against.
A nut can be tightened against the top of the pulley
to prevent the thrust load from loosening the
pulley. This is especially helpful for a pulley that is
not seated on a smoothly machined surface.
Standard nuts for multi-start leadscrews are
difficult to find. It is possible to use a standard
threaded die over the Acme leadscrew to cut new
threads. The leadnut cannot travel over the newly
threaded surface, so either the leadnut should be on
the leadscrew before the ends are re-threaded, or
only one end of the leadscrew should be rethreaded.
End clamps are available for multi-start
leadscrews; these can be used instead of nuts.
A small hose with a hose clamp will also work as
an end clamp. A washer is placed between the hose
and the bearing to keep the hose from compressing
against the bearings seal and causing drag.
The nuts and or clamps on each end of the
leadscrews tighten it into the bearings. The nuts
should be tight enough to remove the end to end
movement but not so tight as to overload the
bearings. The bearings will be noisy and not turn
smoothly when they are overloaded. It is okay to
slightly over tighten the nuts against the bearings
and to then back off the tension to find the best
setting.
Double nuts can be used on each end of the
leadscrew to lock the parts into place. Locking
nuts can also be used as well as Loctite with
standard nuts. Tapping a set-screw into the side of
a nut is another option, when the leadscrews
length is limited.
Optional double nuts on bottom of leadscrew.
The tension can be adjusted at both the top and the

bottom of the leadscrew.
It is usually easier to tension the nuts at the bottom
since the pulley is attached to the top.
Both of the bearings are on the outside of the
carriage so they can be inserted into their seats
after the leadscrew is in place. This can make
assembly easier.
The rails and the leadscrew have to be aligned. The
bottom bearing block is adjustable for this purpose;
the top bearing is fixed into place and cannot be
moved. This helps to lessen the variables that have
to be adjusted.
Z Leadscrew Installation Sequence

The sequence for installing the leadscrew follows.
Details are addressed in the next section.
Cut leadscrew to length.
Install top bearing on leadscrew.
Install 12 tooth pulley on leadscrew.
Insert leadscrew through carriage top plate.
Thread leadnut onto leadscrew below the leadnut
support cross tie.
Extend leadscrew through bottom bearing bracket.
Install bottom bearing block and bearing.
Install bottom nut(s)
Align and tighten leadscrew, leadnut and bottom
bearing block.
Carriage 71
Z Leadscrew Installation
The Z leadscrew can be installed with the carriage
either on or off of the gantry. Final adjustments
may be necessary after all axes are assembled.
At this time the Z rails and the bottom bearing
blocks angle bracket should be in place. The Z
rails should move smoothly before the leadscrew
is installed.
bit size to the desired bore. Should there not be

enough stock left for the set screw(s) in the hub, a
new hole for a set screw can be drilled and tapped
through the toothed section of the pulley, as is done
with a hub-less pulley.
The threads of the leadscrew should be filed to
match the set-screws in the pulley so the set-screws
seat firmly against the leadscrew. The pulley will
work loose when its set-screws are tightened
against the unfiled leadscrew threads.
Cut the leadscrew to length.

This will be the total height of
the Z carriage plus the length
required for the end nuts and
the pulley. On the wood
prototypes this distance is 131/4 inches. A 12 inch
leadscrew would barely fit but
it can not be completely
inserted into the pulley; there
would be no room for a nut on
top of the pulley.
Tighten the top nut against the pulley. The nut is

optional but will help to hold the pulley into place
when the leadscrew is not machined smooth.
The leadscrew can be longer

than needed. The extra material
can project above the pulley or
it can extend out of the bottom.
The routers collet is likely to
extend below the rails far
enough that some extra L e a d s c r e w w i t h
leadscrew length will not bearing, pulley and nut
installed.
interfere with the work.
Insert the leadscrew through the aluminum bottom

bearing block angle bracket.
Insert the leadscrew through the bearing hole in the

carriages top plate.
Thread the leadscrew into the leadnut. The leadnut
should be attached to its supporting flat bar.
The leadnut has to be below the leadnuts cross tie
that is already attached to the Z rails. Do not attach
the flat bar to the cross tie yet.
Press the bottom bearing into the plastic bearing

block and slide these two parts onto the leadscrew.
The bearing is positioned toward the bottom end of
the leadscrew.
Thread or machine the ends of the leadscrew if

desired. This is not mandatory; the leadscrew can
be held into place with commercial clamps or
tubing with hose clamps or nuts, depending on the
type of threaded rod that is used.
Install the top bearing onto the leadscrew. The
bearing is simply slid onto the leadscrew when the
screw is not machined to fit the bearing.
Install the 12 tooth XL pulley; its hub should point
downward so it will rest on the bearings bore.
A 12 tooth pulley with a large enough bore may not
be available. An aluminum pulley can be drilled to
a larger bore size. Incrementally increase the drill
Bearing is toward the bottom of the

leadscrew with the block above it. The
rails are not shown.
Install a nut on the end of the leadscrew. Finger

tighten it enough to remove end to end play in the
leadscrew. The leadscrews bottom bearing block
should be able to slide on its aluminum angle
bracket.
Loosely attach the leadnuts support bar to its
cross tie.
Carriage 72
Twist the leadscrew to move the leadnut to its

highest possible position.
Tighten the leadnuts bar to the cross tie with their
nut and machine screw connection.
Turn the leadscrew to move the leadnut and rails to
their lowest possible position.
Tighten the bottom bearing block into place with
its two machine screws and nuts.
The leadscrew should now be aligned and move
with a minimum of drag.
Tighten the nut(s) on the bottom of the leadscrew
to remove any play between the bearings.
All of the hardware will be permanently tightened
into place after the table is completely assembled.
The Z stepper will be installed after the carriage is
on the gantry. Its wires will be in the way if the
stepper is attached before then.
If there is excess drag, loosen the components one
at a time to find its cause.
The angle of the leadnut on the leadscrew is the
usual problem.
The leadnuts angle can be altered on the leadscrew
by using shims between the cross tie and the
leadnuts flat bar. The rocking version of the flat
bar was also designed to address this.
Should parts require further alignment, the

leadscrew and rail bearings are adjustable, and
each can be moved to match the alignment of the
other.
Work incrementally to find problems, address them
one at a time. They usually become obvious as a
component is being tightened into place, so check
for excess loading while tightening parts together.
Sequence Review
At this time the following parts are installed on the
Z carriage.
Y bearings
Z bearings
Z rails
Spindle mount
Leadscrew with leadnut, pulley and bearings
Front Z tension rods
The back vertical Y tension rods have been cut to
length but are not in place.
The Z stepper plate is made but not attached to the
carriage. This will be attached after the carriage is
on the Y gantry.
The carriage will be attached to the gantry after the
gantry is installed on the X axis.
Gantry installation follows.
The bottom bearings angle bracket may have to be

moved for the bearing to be square with the
leadscrew. The screws that tie the aluminum
bracket to the back plate can be loosened for
adjustment.
Once parts are aligned, nuts with washers are
tightened onto the screw ends where they project
through the back plate. These nuts lock the
machine screws into place.
Carriage 73
Gantry Installation
Before Installing Gantry
The gantry can be installed on the X rails once its
components have been built. The X table has to be
assembled before the gantry can be completed.
The following has been done, or should be done at
this time, before further work is begun on the
gantry.
The gantry rails are installed and tightened.
Y leadnut in its
support block.
Y leadscrew
bearing block.
The rails are loosely installed on the X axis.

Caps can be installed on the front ends of the X
rails to prevent the gantry from falling off of the
rails during tuning. A few wraps with tape will also
work, as will a locked on Vise-Grip.
Attach Gantry to Rails
Rack and pinion gantry on X rails.

End plates are held on by a single screw.
The end plates are cut and drilled and loosely

attached to the gantry beam. The tops of the end
plates and beam are flush with each other, and the
match lines on the end plates are aligned with the
gantry beam.
The X bearing components are loosely attached to
the end plates.
The X stepper mount and its idler are made for the
rack and pinion X axis.
Lift the gantry beam with its loosely attached end

plates onto the rails. The X bearings should rest on
the rails.
Tighten the single screw that holds each wood end
plate to the gantry beam so the end plates are held
tightly to the gantry beam.
Tighten the X bearings on the end plates onto the X
rails. The nuts should be positioned so the top
bearings are centered on
the rails. Washers can
be used as spacers.
Pull the bearings on the
120 angles against the
rails with the nuts on
the carriage bolts. Nuts
and washers sandwich
the 120 angle to keep it
from rocking.
Position bearings on X rails.
Idler
X Pinion stepper
mount.
The rack is installed on the gantry beam for the

rack and pinion Y axis.
The leadscrew bearing block, belt idler, and
leadnut support block are made for the Y leadscrew
axis.
These 120 angled

bearing should be pulled tightly against the rails.
Pinch the bearings with fingers as the gantry is
moved to check for tightness. It should be difficult
to prevent the bearings from turning when held.
They can slide on the rail when grasped very
firmly.
It is usually better to err to being too tight than too
loose. Extreme tightness causes premature bearing
wear, and looseness permits bit chatter.
Gantry Installation 74
The bearings will wear flats into the rails and will
have to be readjusted over time. The flats will tend
to stabilize as they become wider.
Move the gantry from end to end on the X axis. It
should move smoothly; its movement will position
the X pipe rails on their 2 x 6 support beams.
A little resistance in the travel
may be felt as the 120 bearings
pass by the studs in the rails.
This is caused by the nut inside
the pipe pulling the pipe out of
round. This slight bulge can be
removed by sliding a file over the
high spot.
File bulge as
needed.
Incrementally tighten one X pipe rail to its beam by

tightening the nuts that are in the 1-1/2 inch holes
in the beams.
Check the gantrys movement during the
tightening.
After one rail is in place, tighten the other rail to its
beam while moving the gantry to check for
alignment. Tightening the second rail will bring
attention to any misalignment, and the first rail
may have to be loosened and re-tightened to
remove any lack of parallel between the rails.
Spread glue along the mating surfaces between the

wood beam and end plate. Swing the end plate
back into place and install all of the attachment
screws. The attachment screws are 1-5/8 inch
drywall screws. 1/4-20 studs and #8-32 screws are
used with the aluminum version.
Repeat the process for the other side. Make sure
the gantry rides well on the rails before gluing the
second end plate into place. The top X and outside
X bearings should all ride on the X rails when the
120 bearings are loose. The 120 bearings are to
resist uplift, they generally should not be required
to pull the other bearings into position. However
they can compensate for a little misalignment.
The end plates may not be exactly parallel or
aligned with each other due to the placement of the
X bearings. This is not a problem. What is
important is that the gantry moves smoothly on the
X rails.
Attach X Pinion Components
This section is ignored for the leadscrew X axis;
skip to Attach Carriage to Gantry on page 78.
After the end plates are firmly attached to the
gantry beam, and the gantry is on the X rails, the X
pinion components can be installed.
Attach End Plates

After the X rails are firmly tightened to their
beams, the gantry end plates are permanently
attached to the gantry beam.
Vertically twist the gantry beam as needed so it is
square with the X table.
Drill pilot holes through the existing holes in the
end plates into the gantry beam for the attaching
screws. For the aluminum version the holes are
13/64 inch for the 1/4-20 studs and 9/64 inch for
the #8-32 screws.
Remove the single attachment screw from one end
plate and swivel the end plate away from the gantry
beam. The beam will rest on the X rail and the end
plate will be hanging off of the X rail by its X
bearings.
X pinion gantry on X axis rails.
Drill and tap the pinions for #8-32 set-screws. The

screws should be around 90 apart. The pilot holes
are 9/64 inch.
Slide a 36 tooth XL pulley onto the pinion axle.
This axle is a x 36 inch steel rod.
The back of the pulley should be around 2-3/4
inches from the end of the axle. This value will
vary with each machine. The back of the pulley is
the side without the hub, if it has a hub.

This pulley does not have to be flanged since it is
positioned vertically, but flanges do prevent the
belt from ever derailing, even with a worn belt.
if needed to align the ends of the pinions with the

axle. Or the axle can be cut. This should only be
necessary when a custom sized machine is being
made. The axle extending from the ends of the
pinions will prevent the X rack from aligning with
the pinions.
Components on pinion axle.
Put a washer on the axle behind the pulley. The

washer will help to hold the bearing into place in
the wooden stepper mount. The washer cannot
chafe against the bearings seal. A flattened lock
washer or a sliver of inch copper plumbing pipe
can be used for this spacer.
Slide a 1-1/8 x inch bearing against the washerspacer.
Press the wooden stepper mount over the bearing.
Put a 75 tooth x 3/8 inch XL belt on the long end
of the axle.
Pass the axle through the un-notched end plates
bearing hole from the inside of the gantry, and then
put the end with the just attached parts through the
notched end plates bearing hole.
Pinion and bearing

on end plate.
The pinions, or the spacers behind the pinions,

have to press against the end plate bearings.
Otherwise the axle may travel from end to end.
This can cause drag on the rack support or cause
the belt to derail.
The pinions set screws can be tightened against
the axle, but one or both of the pinions will have to
be loosened later to square the gantry with the rack.
After the axle is in place, the stepper mount can be
attached to the end plate.
Attach X Stepper Mount to End Plate

The stepper mount is attached to the end plate with
two 1/4 x 2-1/2 inch carriage bolts. The bolts are
inserted through the 5/16 inch holes in the end plate
and stepper mount.
T hes e ho les a r e
adjustments.
X pinion pulley assembly.
Put a bearing on each end of the axle and slide a

pinion against each bearing. The pinions should
press the bearings into the recesses in the end
plates. Center the axle so it is spaced evenly in
each pinion. The axle may not completely fill the
bore of each pinion. The axle should not protrude
from the ends of the pinions. Use washers/spacers
Washers and three 5/16

inch nuts are used as
spacers on each of the
1/4 inch carriage bolts X stepper mount on the
to position the stepper
gantry end plate.
mount away from the
end plate. The stepper mount has to clear the X
rail. It will drag on the rail if it is too close to the
end plate.
X stepper plate back section view. The

stepper and idler are not drawn to show
the carriage bolts. The 5/16 inch nuts are
spacers.
X stepper plate. Top view.
Attach the stepper mount to the end plate at this

time. The 36 tooth pulley and its bearing can be
moved if necessary.
There should be clearance between the top of the
120 X bearing bracket and the mount. Rotate the
Install X Stepper, Belt and Idler

Because of the thickness of the stepper mount, the
12 tooth pulley will probably have to be attached to
the stepper before the stepper is installed. The
inch plywood will block access to the pulleys set
screws. It is better for this pulley to be hubbed so
there will be more length to its bore.
Hold the stepper in its hole and align its 12 tooth
pulley with the 36 tooth pulley. Remove the stepper
and tighten the 12 tooth pulley to the steppers
shaft.
Attach the stepper to the mount with four #8-32 x
1 inch machine screws; it does not matter which
way the threads point, though it may not be
possible to fit the nuts on the stepper side due to
the size of the steppers body.
At this time, the idler and belt can be installed to
check for fit. However, it will be easier to install
the racks without the belt attached to the stepper,
so the axle can freewheel.
Side view of X stepper plate.

The X rail bearings are not shown.
mount upward away from the bracket when

tightening the carriage bolts.
Tighten the carriage bolts to secure the mount now.
Abut the 36 tooth pulley against the bearings
washer/spacer and tighten the pulleys set screws.
Wrap the 75 tooth XL belt around the two pulleys

and install the idler in its slot. The top right image
shows the belts path.
The idlers bolt can point
in either direction; do
whatever is easier. Use
washers to position the
idler on the belt. Tension
the idler against the belt
and tighten its axle bolt
Idler attached to
and nut.
stepper mount.
The clearance between the belt and the 120 X
bearing bracket is close. Trim the top of the
bearing bracket if necessary.
Once it is clear that everything fits well, the idler
can be loosened and the belt can be removed; this
will permit the axle to freewheel.
The pinion portion of the X axis, which can be
done now, is complete. It will be necessary to
rotate the pinions to square the gantry after the
racks are installed.
Attach Carriage to Gantry

After the gantry is on the X axis, the carriage can
be installed on the gantry.
This section is for both the Y pinion and Y
leadscrew versions of the carriage. Specific
directions for each version follow this section.
The carriage will ride on the bearings. The Y rack

version will probably turn the Y pinion as the
carriage is moved. The Y leadscrew version will
move freely.
The bearings may be loose even with the carriage
bottom plate firmly attached to the back plate; this
is not a problem.
Note for
Y Rack and Pinion
Before installing the
carriage, the rack
should be as close as
possible to the Y pipe
rail with its top corner
abutting the rail.
Rack abuts pipe.
The carriage for both versions should have the top

and bottom Y bearings, the Z bearings, Z rails and
the Z leadscrew in place. The pinion version also
has the pinion with its bearings and bearing block
installed.
Loosen or remove the
carriages bottom plate
so the bottom bearings
will clear the bottom
gantry rail.
Tension rods in back of carriage.
Install the Y tension rods through the holes in the

carriages top and bottom plates and tighten them
enough for the bearing trucks to hold position on
the top and bottom plates.
As described in the bottom plate section, the
tension rods can be threaded into the bottom plate,
or into tee nuts that are in the bottom plate. The
tension rods extra length should project from the
top plate rather than from below the bottom plate.
Place the carriages top

Y bearings on the
gantrys top rail and
swing the carriage so
the bottom bearings
slide underneath and
onto the bottom rail.
For the Y pinion version, skip the next section and

continue on the next page at Y Pinion Adjustment.
Position Carriage (Leadscrew Version)
Tighten the bottom

plates attachment nuts Carriage ready to be installed
on their studs to pull on gantry with bottom plate
loosened.
the bottom Y bearings
into the Y rail.
The back of the carriage needs to be around 5/8

inch away from the face of the gantry beam to give
clearance for the leadscrew and leadnut. This
distance will vary and the leadnuts flanges can be
trimmed to fit later.
Pull the carriage away from the front of the gantry
beam as far as it can move.
Attach Carriage
78
Square the carriage with the bed of the X table.

Tighten the trucks to the top and bottom plates
with the nuts on their #8 attachment screws.
Adjust the tension rods to tighten the bearings
against the Y rails. This is the same process as was
done for the Z axis tension rods.
Check that the carriage moves smoothly on the
rails. Adjust the trucks and tension rods as needed.
The Y leadscrew carriage is now ready for the Y
bearing block installation. This begins on the
bottom of page 81.
Y Pinion Adjustment
Align Pinion
The entire carriage should be loose enough on the
bearing trucks that it can be moved to adjust the
clearance between the pinion and the rack.
tight, it will be easier to adjust the pinion on the

axle rather than to adjust the distance between the
bearings.
The washer or spacer between the pinion and
bearing can be a flattened lock washer or a ring cut
from 1/4 inch copper pipe couplers. These fit well
over 3/8 inch shafts; they have a small OD so they
will not chafe the bearing seal.
The positions of the bearings were designed so the
36 tooth pulley will keep the axle from falling
down, and the pinion will prevent the axle from
climbing up. Therefore, the pinion, or a spacer
between the pinion and the bearing, must abut the
bottom bearing.
Check that the pinions teeth are inline with the
racks teeth and tighten the 5/16 inch nuts. The
pinion does not have to fully engage the rack; it can
be slightly above or below the racks teeth.
However the teeth should be parallel to each other.
The vertical positioning of the pinion should now
be correct.
Install 36 Tooth Pulley (Pinion Version)
Adjustment of rack and pinion tension.
The pinions bearing block is also loose and will

allow movement.
The pinion is aligned with the rack.
With the carriage on the rails, vertically align the

pinion with the rack. Use washers as needed
between the bearing block and the top plate and/or
use spacers between the bottom bearing and the
pinion. Do whatever is easier. If the bearings are
Y Pinion
This pulley should sit as close as possible to the

top plate so it will align with the steppers pulley.
The steppers pulley is unable to extend very high
because of the shortness of the steppers shaft.
The 36 tooth pulley will have to be held a fraction
of an inch above the bearing so it will not chafe on
the bearing or the top plate. A spacer made of a
flattened lock washer or a 1/4 inch copper pipe
coupler as described for the pinion spacing can be
used here. A slice is cut from the coupler and
placed on the 3/8 inch axle.
One of the steppers support screws is covered by
the 36 tooth pulley. This screw hole should be
countersunk and the screw should be placed in its
hole before the pulley is installed.
Check to make sure that the nut of the screw can be
turned at the stepper. The clearance around some
steppers mounting holes is close, and a #8 nut
79
cannot be turned to tighten a stationary screw.

It may be necessary to use a #6 screw with its
smaller nut in this location.
Adjust the bottom trucks so the carriage is square

with the table top, and tighten the bottom trucks
into place.
Adjust the tension rods to tighten the bearings
against the Y rails. This is the same process as was
done for the Z axis tension rods.
Install Y Stepper (Pinion Version)
One stepper screw points down to clear

the 36 tooth pulley.
Install the single stepper screw and the 36 tooth

pulley with its shimming washer at this time.
Press the pinion axle components together so there
is no end to end play in the axle and tighten the set
screws on the 36 tooth pulley.
The pinion axle assembly should now be firmly in
place.
Tension Pinion into Rack

The carriage can be moved on the Y bearing trucks
to press the pinion into the rack. Also the rack
itself can be moved by adjusting the machine
screws in the rack support brackets. Refer to the
pictures in the previous Align Pinion section.
Press against the back of the carriages top plate
to push the pinion into the rack. Tighten the
bearing trucks #8 attachment screws to hold the
trucks into place.
The stepper is held into place with four #8 machine

screws. Three can be positioned with their threads
pointing up. As stated previously, the screw under
the 36 tooth pulley will have to be countersunk into
the top plate so it will not interfere with the pulley,
and it may need to be a #6 size so its nut can be
tightened.
The thickness of the top plate does not permit the
steppers 12 tooth pulley to sit near the stepper.
Therefore, this smaller pulley should have a hub.
The extra length of the hub allows the pulley to
extend above the top plate while the pulley is
firmly attached to the steppers shaft.
The top plate will probably block access to the set
screws in the steppers pulley, so it will be
necessary to install the pulley before attaching the
Hold the stepper into place while moving the pulley
into alignment with the 36 tooth pulley, and then
remove the stepper so the set screws can be
tightened.
Once the steppers pulley is in place, the 50 tooth
belt is wrapped around both pulleys and the stepper
is installed.
The pulleys flanges prevent the belt from being
installed after the stepper is fixed into place.
It will be necessary to place the stepper on the
screw that is under the 36 tooth pulley and rotate
the entire stepper to give enough slack for the belt
to be installed.
The stepper is then set into place and the remaining
screws are installed and tightened.
Push against back of top plate to press

the pinion into the rack.
Y Pinion
80
The belt will still be loose; it will be tightened with

the idler.
Install the stepper with its 12 tooth pulley and belt.
Install Idler (Pinion Version)

The idler is installed with a bolt and single nut.
Washers are placed between the top plate and the
idlers bearings to position the idler on the belt.
This idlers construction directions are on page 30.
Loctite on their threads after the rack is adjusted.

Securely tighten the long screws that tie the rack to
the gantry beam.
This completes the installation of the Y pinion
system. Stepper tuning directions are on page 104.
The Z stepper can now be installed and adjusted.
See page 85 for directions.
Design Notes for the Pinion Assembly

The stepper and bearings are positioned so the
pinion will be pulled into the rack as the Y belt is
tightened.
A shorter top plate was made with an offset
stepper, but tensioning the belt pulled the pinion
out of square with the rack.
The idler is held in place with

a 5/16 x 1-1/2 inch bolt.
Washers space the idler from
the top plate.
Different pinion bearing placements also caused the

pinion to offset or loosen as the steppers belt was
tightened.
The stepper is turned at 45 so there will be room
for the idler-tensioner. Aligning the stepper square
with the top plate required the top plate to be
longer.
It is easier to tension the belt with the idler than it
would be to have the stepper move on its own plate
as is done with the Z axis.
Install idler.
The idlers axle bolt can point up or down,

washers are needed on each side of the slot in the
top plate, otherwise the bolts head or nut will pull
into the slot and make adjustment difficult.
The idler can be pressed against the belt and
tightened into place at this time. Tightening the
idler can press the pinion into the rack with more
force.
Check for tightness between the rack and pinion.
The adjustment screws in the rack brackets are
used for further fine adjustment. They are turned to
press the rack into the pinion. Use non-hardening
Y Pinion
A thinner wooden top plate flexes under the load of

the belts tension.
Install Y Bearing Block (Y Leadscrew Version)

The bearing block is held to the end plate with two
#8 x 1-1/4 machine screws and their nuts with
washers.
The screws are driven into the threaded holes in the
end plate. They are close to the wood gantry beam
and it may be necessary to shave a fraction off of
the edges of the beams trough for these two screws
to be driven into their holes.
81
Install the screws and loosely affix the bearing

block to the end of the gantry. See images below.
The bearing is not pressed into the bearing block at
this time and the bearing block is loose.
15 tooth pulley on leadscrew

with optional nut if the
leadscrew is long enough.
The leadscrew is passed through the gantrys Y

stepper end plate, and passed behind the carriage.
Bearing block attached

to end plate.
The leadnut, which is already in its support block,

is screwed onto the leadscrew on the left side of the
carriage.
The flange of the leadnut may have to face away
from the carriage as shown in the drawing below;
larger leadnuts may not fit behind the carriage.
However, larger leadnuts will bump the end plate
before the carriage hits the X rail support.
Therefore, trimming the flange so the nut can fit
behind the carriage can allow a fraction more Y
travel.
Leadscrew bearing block

on end plate.
Leadscrew Installation
The Y leadscrew can be installed after the carriage
moves well on the gantry.
The System Comparison section on page 111
addresses some of the leadscrew options. A 3/8 -10
two start Acme rod worked well on the prototype.
A bearing is pressed onto the end of the leadscrew
and a washer and 15 tooth pulley are installed on
the very end of the leadscrew.
Fifteen tooth XL pulleys are used on both the
leadscrew and stepper; they are available in a
variety of bore sizes to match differently sized
leadscrews.
If the leadscrew is long enough, a nut can be put on
the leadscrew after the pulley. This will help with
the thrust load that will be carried by the pulley.
Y Leadscrew
Leadnut with leadscrew behind carriage.
The leadscrew is then passed through the bearing

block on the other end plate.
Check at this time that the leadnut and its bracket
will clear the gantry. A variety of leadscrews and
leadnuts were tried with the prototypes including a
5/8 inch ballscrew with its square ballnut, and a
inch Acme Delrin anti-backlash leadnut, as well as
smaller leadscrews. All versions fit, but some
flanges had to be trimmed for clearance.
The Delrin nuts and leadnut block can be trimmed
by power sanding. The ballnut had to be rotated so
82
its bearing return tube would clear the wooden

gantry. On the aluminum channel gantry, the 5/8
inch ballnut fit behind the carriage.
Loosely attach the leadnut support block to the side

of the carriage with #8 nuts and washers. Larger
washers will be required underneath the #8 washers
to cover the slots.
Note: Should there not be enough room for the

leadnut and its block, even after trimming the
leadnut block, the carriage can be moved farther
from the gantry by enlarging the holes for the
trucks #8 machine screws. The carriage can then
be pulled away from the gantry to give more
clearance behind it.
Turn the leadscrew to pull the carriage to the Y

stepper end of the gantry.
The carriage will have to be removed to do this, but

this process is easier than routing a deeper trough
and reworking the hardware that pulls the pipe rails
into the gantry beam.
Tighten the nuts that hold the leadnut support block

to the carriage. This will probably have to be
repeated, so do not firmly tighten the nuts, but they
should hold the leadnut block into position.
On the prototypes there was room enough for all

mentioned leadnuts, however the clearance was
close for the larger ones, and slight variations in
construction could cause interference problems.
Turn the leadscrew to move the carriage to the far

end of the gantry. A drill can be used to turn the
leadscrew; do not turn it rapidly or the leadscrew
may whip.
After the leadnut and its support block are trimmed

to fit, re-install the leadscrew and leadnut, and pass
the leadscrew through the bearing block.
With the carriage as close as possible to the

bearing block end of the gantry, tighten the nuts
that hold the bearing block into place. These also
should not be permanently tightened at this time.
By eye, align the leadscrew so it appears to be

parallel with the gantry and pipe rails. This is a
rough adjustment; there is no need to take a lot of
time with this step.
Press a bearing onto the leadscrew and into the

bearing block.
Tighten the nut or clamp that is on the end of the

leadscrew to remove any end to end movement in
the leadscrew.
Put a nut or clamp on the end of the leadscrew. The

nut should be barely tight enough to hold the
bearing block into position, but not so tight as to
prevent the bearing block from easily moving.
The blocks position will have to be determined
before the hardware is permanently tightened into
place.
The preliminary alignment is now complete.

Further adjustment is done after the stepper is
installed. The use of the stepper to turn the
leadscrew makes the alignment process much
easier.
Install Y Stepper and Belt
The Y leadscrew stepper is fixed into position on
the end plate with four #8-32 x 1 inch machine
screws.
Its belt is tensioned by an idler rather than by
moving the stepper on a separate plate; this
simplifies construction and tuning.
The belt is a 110 XL x 3/8 inch wide; it has 55
teeth.
Bearing block installed with leadscrew.
Y Leadscrew
83
The flanges on the pulleys will prevent the belt

from being installed after both 15 tooth pulleys are
fixed into place. Therefore, the belt is installed as
the stepper is attached to the end plate.
End plate with belt, stepper and idler.

Belt and pulleys on Y leadscrew
axis. X bearings and rails not
shown.
The wires from the stepper must point away from

the gantry. The Z carriages tension rods pass
closely to the stepper and they will chafe the
steppers wires otherwise.
The thickness of the end plate does not permit the
steppers 15 tooth pulley to sit near the stepper.
Therefore, this pulley should have a hub. The extra
length of the hub allows the pulley to extend
beyond the end plate while the pulley is firmly
attached to the steppers shaft.
Install Idler
The idler is installed with a bolt and single nut.
Washers are placed between the end plate and the
idlers bearings to position the idler on the belt.
This idlers construction directions are on page 30.
The end plate will probably block access to the set

screws in the steppers pulley, so it will be
necessary to install the pulley before attaching the
Hold the stepper into place while moving the pulley
into alignment with the leadscrew pulley, and then
remove the stepper so the pulleys set screws can
be tightened.
Once the steppers pulley is in place, the 55 tooth
belt is wrapped around both pulleys and the stepper
is installed. The #8 screws can be permanently
tightened.
The belt will be loose; it is tightened with the idler,
which is done next.
Y Leadscrew
Idler attached to end plate.
The idlers axle bolt can point either way. Washers

are needed on each side of the slot in the end plate
to prevent the bolts head or nut from pulling into
the slot and making adjustment difficult.
The idler can be pressed against the belt and
tightened into place at this time.
Tuning of the stepper is addressed on page 104.
This is done after all axes are complete.
84
Install Z Stepper
After the carriage is on the gantry, the Z stepper
can be installed and adjusted.
The height of the stepper is set by moving the nuts

and washers which sandwich the stepper plate.
The Z stepper is attached to its plate with #8
machine screws. The steppers wires should exit
the stepper toward the back of the carriage.
The 30 tooth belt is wrapped around the Z
leadscrew pulley and the steppers pulley as the
stepper plate is slid over the studs and carriage
bolts. The flanges on the pulleys prevent the belt
from being installed after the stepper plate is on the
bolts.
Stepper on top of carriage. Z

rails and gantry are not shown
for clarity.
The stepper is coupled to the Z leadscrew with 12

tooth XL pulleys and a 30 tooth x 3/8 inch wide
XL belt.
The stepper can be installed and adjusted at this

time.
The tuning of the steppers is addressed on page
104. It is done after all axes are completed.
Sequence Review
At this time the carriage is assembled and on the
gantry.
The gantry is assembled and on the X table.
The Y and Z steppers are attached to their axes and
are ready for final tuning.
Stepper with pulleys
and belt.
The belts tension is adjusted by sliding the stepper

mount on the studs and carriage bolts.
The X tables rails are tightened into place, and the

gantry rides smoothly on the X rails.
The X drive systems can now be installed.
The X leadscrew systems begin on the following
page.
The X rack and pinion section begins on page 100.
Z stepper mounting components.
Z Stepper
85
The dual slaved stepper method was the least

satisfactory. The speeds did not increase and it was
annoying to realign the gantry after one stepper
stalled.
Final Assembly of Leadscrew X Axis

Introduction
The X axis can be driven with a pair of leadscrews
instead of racks and pinions. Leadscrews speeds
are slower than those of racks but the prototypes
were still able to rapid at 200 ipm with -10-5
start, 2 turn per inch Acme rods. The speeds for
other options are listed in the Systems Comparison
chart on page 111.
Three methods of coupling the leadscrews to the
stepper(s) are included in these plans.
One system uses a single long belt which drives
both leadscrews with one stepper.
Leadscrews driven by a single long belt.
Another method uses two belts from one stepper

with each belt driving one leadscrew.
Mach software permits axis slaving and can

automatically re-true the axis by backing it off of
the limit switches. The fact that this feature is
included in the software indicates that this is a
common problem with slaved axes. This slaved
system would be more satisfactory with servos and
encoders since position loss could immediately
trigger the table to stop. With steppers a missed
step on one of the slaved steppers will not be
noticed by the electronics or software.
Another annoyance with the slaved system is the
inability to move the axis by hand without using
the jog function. In this shop it is convenient to
disable an axis and manually set the router to
position. This is often easier than re-figuring
offsets or re-zeroing the axes in the software. Since
it is virtually impossible to hand turn two steppers
the exact same distance at the same time, the
manual positioning was impractical, and as a result
set-ups took longer.
The other two methods that used a single stepper
with one or two belts worked well.
The single long belt served well with the 3 foot
wide gantry, since the belt did not have to be
extremely long.
Leadscrews driven by two belts and one stepper.
The third method slaves two steppers together with

each stepper driving one leadscrew. This is done
through the software, and requires an extra drive
and stepper.
Leadscrews driven by slaved steppers.
The dual belts also functioned well; they could be

used with tables that have a wider gantry so two
shorter belts, rather than one very long and
overpriced belt, could be used.
Two shorter belts plus the additional stepper pulley
tend to be less expensive than the one long belt.
A potential, but easily
remedied problem with
dual belts is it can be
difficult to tension both
belts by moving the single
stepper. This can
X Leadscrews 86
Idler near leadscrew

pulley.
be resolved by placing an extra idler near either of

the leadscrew pulleys. A slight offset of the belt
makes a substantial difference in the belts tension.
Front Bearing Blocks

The front bearing blocks, like the other bearing
blocks on this machine, are made of 3/8 inch
kitchen cutting board plastic.
They are drilled as shown.
Front Leadscrew Bearing Supports

The leadscrews extend
through the holes in the tops
of the legs and are supported
by bearing blocks at the
front of the table. Right
image.
The large holes are drilled

with Forstner bits. The larger
diameter recess is drilled first
and the smaller hole is drilled
through the remaining stock.
The leadscrews are also

supported by anti-whip
Leadscrew bearing
bearing blocks that are on supported in block.
the backs of all four legs.
Image below right.
The leadscrews are tensioned
by nuts on the front of the
table as shown in the top
image.
Bearing block behind
leg.
These blocks support the

thrust load of the leadscrews, X leadscrew bearing
therefore, the smaller block. Two needed; one
diameter shoulders should is mirrored.
not be too thin. The bearing
does not have to be flush with the face of the block,
so the shoulders can be thicker.
The 1/4 inch hole in the block is for the first
attachment screw. The hole is oversized to allow
for adjustment. Once the leadscrew and leadnut are
aligned, a second attachment screw is driven
through the 1/8 inch hole to fix the blocks
position. Drywall screws of 1-5/8 inch with
washers or similar are used here.
Two of these blocks are required, one is a mirror
image of the one shown.
Back Leadscrew Bearings

The back ends of the leadscrews are held into place
with the pulleys. Bottom image.
The leadscrew bearings at the back of the table are
supported by recesses in
the 1 x 4 end plate.
The recesses in the back
1 x 4 end plate do not
permit the bearings to be
moved for alignment. All
adjustments are done with
the front bearing blocks.
Bearing recessed in 1 x 4
with pulley on leadscrew.
These blocks are

sized for 1-1/8 inch
OD bearings. This
is a common size
that has a inch
bore. These are
used with inch
Acme rod; the rod
does not have to be
machined to fit in
these bearings.
X leadscrew bearing block; 3/8

inch thick.
These two blocks can be made at this time. One is

a mirror of the other.
X Leadscrews 87
Anti-Whip Bearing Blocks
X End Plate
These blocks are a homemade version of the

commercial End Fixity C system which uses two
bearings at each end of the
lea dscr ew to lessen
whipping. They can make
a substantial difference and
are usually worth the time
to install when small
dia met er or l ong
leadscrews are used.
The stepper or steppers, and the leadscrew bearings

are all supported by a 1 x 4 end plate that spans the
tables two back legs.
Recesses that serve as bearing supports are drilled
in both ends of the 1 x 4. These two recesses and
the pilot holes for attaching the 1 x 4 to the table
are the same for all three versions of the leadscrew
machine.
Anti-whip bearing block.
The blocks are attached in

Four required.
the notched section of the
legs as shown on the previous page, and are held
into place with drywall screws or similar. They are
fixed into position after the leadscrew alignment is
complete.
The blocks are symmetrical on a diagonal so all
four blocks can use the same pattern. Mirroring is
not necessary.
1 x 4 end plate on back of machine.
The image below shows the 1 x 4 attached to one

leg and rail support. The pilots are for drywall or
decking screws which tie the plate to the table.
Anti whip bearing block; 3/8 inch thick.
The blocks are rotated so the narrower edges face

up and away from the table. They are 1-3/8 inch
wide and fit in a 1-1/2 inch recess, which leaves
room for adjustment.
The construction directions for these are the same
as for the blocks in the previous section.
Make these now, four are required.
End of 1 x 4 X end plate showing the

locations of the leg, rail support,
bearing and pilots.
The bearings are supported in the 1-1/8 inch

recesses and rest against the 7/8 inch stops. These
are bored with Forstner bits the same way as the
bearing blocks are drilled.
The 1 x 4 is 36-7/8 inches long, it can be cut to
length and the pilots and bearing recesses can be
drilled at this time. It is installed after the stepper
plate carriage bolts are installed. Their placement
varies for each belt system; these options are
covered next.
X Leadscrews 88
One Stepper with a Long Belt

The one belt system is the simplest design with the
fewest components. One 15 tooth XL pulley is used
on the stepper and on each leadscrew, and they are
coupled with a single long belt. The belt is 82.8 x
3/8 inches and has 414 teeth.
Three holes are for 1/4 x 3 inch carriage bolts, and

the upper left hole is for a 5/16 x 3 inch carriage
bolt which serves as the idlers axle.
This end plate can be cut and drilled at this time.
Leadscrews driven by a single 414 tooth belt.
This single belt method works well with narrower

machines, but long belts are costly as compared to
a pair of shorter belts.
Long belts are not available in many different
lengths, therefore, a custom width machine should
be sized around the available belts. Using a pair of
shorter belts instead of one long belt can permit
more width options.
Also longer belts will rebound more than shorter
belts; this can contribute to backlash and chatter,
especially during heavier cutting.
Long Belt End Plate

The end plate is a 1 x 4 cut to 36-7/8 inches long.
The bearing holes are drilled as described in the
previous X End Plate section.
The holes for the stepper plate and idler are shown
in the image below and in the detail drawing.
Detail for stepper mount holes

in 1 x 4 for single long belt.
Stepper Plate
This single belt is tensioned by rotating the stepper
plate which swings around a 1/4 x 3 inch carriage
bolt.
Two other 1/4 x 3 inch carriage bolts also hold the
plate into position. The three carriage bolts are
firmly tightened to the end plate with nuts and
washers.
A pair of nuts and washers on each bolt sandwich
the stepper plate and are moved along the carriage
bolts to align the belt and stepper.
The plate can be made of a variety of materials
including 1/4 inch tempered hardboard, plywood,
cutting board, 16 gauge or thicker aluminum, or
Lexan or similar.
X axis end plate for one stepper with one long belt. The pilot and bearing holes in the ends mirror each other.
X Leadscrews 89
The holes for the stepper in the plate can be marked

by using the stepper as the template, as shown on
page 29. There is a template for this plate at the end
of the manual.
Idler made of entire PVC coupler.
Though it is counter-intuitive, an hour glass shaped

idler will cause the flat belt to climb out of the
valley, A slight bulge in the center of the idler will
help the belt to remain centered on the idler. These
PVC couplers tend to be larger in the center than at
the ends. This works to the idlers advantage.
The idler can be made and installed now.
Stepper plate for single long belt.
Radii are from the center of the darkened hole.
The 11.63 degree angle shown at the top of the

plate does not have to be exact. The cut can be
made with a miter saw that is set around 11 or 12
degrees. This can be easier than drawing the
diagonal between the two sides and then trying to
follow the line by hand.
Installing the Belt and Stepper

This is printed at this place in the plans because it
is part of the single belt system. However, the end
plate and leadscrews have to be in place before the
belt and stepper are installed. These sections begin
on page 95. Skip ahead, install those components
and then return to here.
The belt is wrapped around the mounting hardware
and the idler as shown in the drawings below.
Idler for the Long Belt

A fixed idler routes the belt around the steppers
pulley. This idler can be slightly offset to fit belts of
different lengths or tables of different widths.
The idler is similar to the tensioners used on the
other axes except this one uses an uncut inch
PVC electrical conduit coupler. Bearings are
pressed into each end.
The axle is a 5/16 x 3 inch carriage bolt which is
firmly attached to the 1 x 4 with a single nut and
washer. Two nuts are locked against each other to
hold the idler on the bolt.
This method is used rather than stacked bearings
because it is inexpensive and gives a larger
diameter than the skate bearings used by
themselves. This larger diameter keeps the belt from
bending as sharply and helps extend the belts life.
X Leadscrews 90
Belt path around idler and drive

pulley.
Stepper for single long belt.
The pulley is attached to the stepper, and the

stepper is then slid onto the carriage bolts as the
belt is wrapped around the steppers pulley. The
stepper is then tightened into position while the
slack in the belt is removed by rotating the stepper
and its plate.
One Stepper with Two Belts

The two belt system uses one belt for each
leadscrew. Two pulleys are on the single stepper.
The pulleys are all XL 15 teeth, and the belts are 39
x 3/8 inches and have 195 teeth.
Stepper Plate for Two Belts

The two belts are tensioned by moving the stepper
plate which slides on 1/4 x 3 inch carriage bolts.
The three carriage bolts are firmly tightened to the
end plate with nuts and washers.
bolts to align the belts and pulleys.
Stepper on stepper plate.

Leadscrews driven by two belts and one stepper. Two
pulleys are on the stepper.
This system requires that two pulleys be attached to

the steppers shaft. A hub-less pulley positioned
close to the stepper, and a hubbed pulley on the end
of the shaft work well.

including 1/8 inch tempered hardboard, 16 gauge or
thicker aluminum, or Lexan or similar. The plate
has to be thin to permit belt clearance on the inmost stepper pulley.
The holes for the stepper in the plate can be marked
by using the stepper as the template, as shown on
page 29. There is a template for this plate at the end
of the manual.
Two pulleys on stepper.
For steppers with short shafts a separate axle for

the pulleys can be made by drilling a 1/4 inch bore
in the end of a 5/16 inch bolt.
Holes drilled through the sides of the bolt will
permit the set screws from one of the pulleys to
tighten the pulley and shaft extension to the stepper.
Pulleys with a 5/16 bore are used with this
extension shaft.
X Leadscrews 91
Stepper plate for single stepper with two belts.

The top corners are rounded for appearance.
before the belts and stepper are installed. These

sections begin on page 95. Skip ahead, install those
components and then return to here.
Double Belt End Plate

The bearing holes are drilled as described in the
previous X End Plate section.
The holes for the stepper plate and idler are shown
in the drawing below and at the bottom of the page.
The pulleys are attached to the stepper and the

stepper is attached to the stepper plate.
Each of the belts wraps its pulley; the belts are
routed around the carriage bolts as shown in the
drawing below.
Belts go around the carriage

bolts.
The pulley on one of the leadscrews is spaced away

from the leadscrew bearing so it will be aligned
with the outmost stepper pulley.
Detail of stepper mount holes in 1 x 4

for two-belt drive.
Three 1/4 inch holes are drilled in the 1 x 4 for the

carriage bolts that support the stepper plate.
The end plate can be cut and drilled now.
Installing the Belts and Stepper

is part of the double belt system. However, the end
plate and leadscrews have to be in place
A section of inch copper pipe works well as a

spacer between the pulley and the leadscrew
bearing.
The belts are tensioned by moving the stepper plate
downward. Each belt should be tight to prevent the
teeth from skipping. An extra idler can be added
as shown in the introductory section.
The belts, stepper and pulleys are installed after the
leadscrews are in place.
X end plate for one stepper with two belts.
X Leadscrews 92
Two Slaved Steppers

The two stepper system is the most straightforward
mechanically, but it requires an extra drive and
stepper as well as software that is capable of
slaving the steppers.
Leadscrew driven by its own stepper.

Leadscrews driven by two steppers.
This system can be handy for wide tables that

include positioning feedback systems such as is
found on servos with encoders.
Steppers will occasionally lose position and the
slaved axes can introduce problems that outweigh
their advantages.
One 15 tooth XL pulley is used on each stepper
and leadscrew; they are coupled with 55 tooth XL
belts; they are 3/8 inch wide.
The belts are tensioned by moving the stepper
plates.
The softwares documentation should be consulted
for this system. The steppers have to work in
concert with each other.
Mach will use the values for the slower axis as the
setting for both steppers.

bolts to align the belt and pulleys.
including 1/4 inch tempered hardboard, plywood,
cutting board, 16 gauge or thicker aluminum, or
Lexan or similar.
The holes for the stepper in the plate can be
marked by using the stepper as the template, as
shown on page 29. There are templates for these
plates at the end of the manual.
The two plates can be made at this time. One
mirrors the other.
Stepper Plates for the Slaved Steppers

The two belts are each tensioned by moving the
stepper plates which rotate on 1/4 x 3 inch carriage
bolts.
The three carriage bolts are firmly tightened to the
end plate with nuts and washers.
Stepper plate for use with two steppers. Two plates are
required; one is a mirror of the one shown.
X Leadscrews 93
before the steppers are installed. These sections

begin on page 95. Skip ahead, install those
components and then return to here.
End Plate for Two Steppers

The bearing holes are drilled, as described in the
previous End Plate section.
The holes for the stepper plates are shown in the
drawing below and at the bottom of this page.
Each of the steppers with its pulley is attached to

its plate. The belt is wrapped around the leadscrew
pulley and then around the stepper pulley as the
stepper plate is slid onto the carriage bolts.
The nuts are adjusted on the carriage bolts to align
the belt and pulleys, and the stepper plates are
rotated to tighten the belts. The nuts are then
Detail for stepper mount holes in 1 x 4 for two steppers.

Other end is mirrored.
Three 1/4 inch holes are drilled in the 1 x 4 for the

carriage bolts that support the stepper plate.
The darkened area around the two left 1/4 inch
holes is a recess drilled from the back of the board.
The heads of the carriage bolts are pulled into the
recesses so they will not interfere with the 2 x 6
pipe rail support boards.
Each leadscrew driven by one stepper.
The end plate can be cut and drilled now.
Installing the Belts and Steppers
Belt path with dual steppers.

is part of the dual stepper system. However, the
end plate and leadscrews have to be in place
X axis end plate for two steppers. The ends mirror each other. The pilot and bearing hole locations are shown on the left and
the holes for the stepper plates carriage bolts are shown on the right.
X Leadscrews 94
Installation of X End Plate (All X Leadscrew

Versions)
This 1 x 4 end plate can be attached to the table
after the holes for the carriage bolts and leadscrew
bearings are drilled into it. The carriage bolts for
the slaved stepper mounts have to be in place
before this board can be attached to the axis.
Leadnut Angle Brackets

The two X leadnuts
are held to the gantry
end plates with 1 x 1/8
inch aluminum angles
that are cut to 4-1/2
inches long.
Bracket on end of gantry.
Each of the carriage bolts for the stepper plates is

tightened into the board with a washer between the
nut and the face of the board. This connection
should be so tight that the washer compresses the
wood.
This 1 x 4 is then glued and screwed to the back
end of the table with 1-5/8 inch drywall or decking
screws or similar.
The pilot holes in the ends of the board can be used
as guides for drilling the matching pilot holes in the
2 x 6 rail supports and legs.
The ends of the board are
flush with both the
outside and the top of the
legs. The top of the 1 x 4
will be inch above the
top of the 2 x 6 rail
support.
Leadnut angle bracket on end plate. The front of the

gantry is toward the right.
Holes are drilled in the top of one

leg of the angle to match the
attaching screws in the end plate.
These holes are drilled oversized
to allow for adjustment; they can
be enlarged if necessary.
The 1 x 4 has to be firmly Leg and 1 x 4 are aligned.

in place before the
leadscrews can be installed.
The leadscrews have to be installed before the
stepper(s) and belt(s) can be attached to this end
plate.
This 1 x 4 can be installed at this time.
X Leadscrew Sequence Note

The leadscrews have to be aligned with the travel
of the gantry. Therefore, the X leadnuts are
addressed next, since they will position the
leadscrews.
Holes are drilled in the bottom of

the other leg of the aluminum
angle for the flange of the
leadnut.
The arrows in the drawing on the
right point to the holes for the
machine screws that tie the
leadnut to the angle.
Angle brackets for

X leadnuts.
The position of these holes will

vary with the different types of leadnuts. They will
also vary due to the way the gantry rides as
compared to the leadscrew. Therefore, these two
holes are not drilled until the gantry, leadscrew and
leadnut are in place.
X Leadscrews 95
The holes in the leadnuts flange are drilled before

the leadnut is threaded onto the leadscrew. These
holes are then used to mark the position of the
matching holes in the aluminum angle bracket.
Leadnut on angle
bracket.
The 5/8 inch diameter section of the aluminum

angle bracket that is removed for the leadnut is
open on the edge rather than being a closed hole.
This permits the angle bracket to be placed into
position without removing the leadscrew.
Leadnut leg of bracket.

Small hole locations are
approximate and will be
drilled later.
Leadnut bracket, holes for

end plate screws.
The leadnut abuts the angle bracket rather than

projecting through it. Therefore, the hole only has
to clear the leadscrew. The 5/8 inch diameter hole
allows adjustment around a inch diameter
leadscrew.
The two aluminum angles are cut and drilled as
shown. The locations of the small holes for the
leadnuts flanges are dimensioned for reference but
they will vary with each machine; they will be
drilled later.
The 5/8 inch hole can be drilled, and the holes
edge can be removed at this time. The two holes in
the top of the other leg can also be drilled.
Make these two angle brackets. One bracket is a
mirror image of the other.
Leadnut angle as
X Leadscrews 96
Mirrored angle
bracket.
Cut X Leadscrews
Leadnut Note
The leadscrews can be installed after the bearing

blocks are made and the 1 x 4 X end plate is
installed.
The anti-backlash Delrin nuts can initially be

extremely stiff; so stiff that the machines
performance severely suffers.
The leadscrews are cut to length. They should be

the length of the table with the 1 x 4 end plate (603/4 inches) plus the thickness of the bearing block
(~3/8 inch), plus the nuts or end clamps (~1-1/4
inches), and the pulley (~1 inch). (Total ~63-3/8
inches.)
The leadscrews on the prototypes were cut to 65
inches.
The leadnut can be broken-in by removing its

spring and collar before installing the leadnut on
the leadscrew, and then turning the leadscrew to
move the leadnut from end to end.
The leadscrews could also be cut to fit after they

are in place if their ends are not going to be
machined.
This can be done by using a drill to turn the

leadscrew while the leadscrew is supported by the
holes in the tops of the legs. It will take a number
of end to end trips for the leadnuts drag to lessen.
The movement of the leadnut will also pull debris
from the leadscrews threads; this dirt should be
removed.
One of the leadscrews for the dual belt one

stepper system will need to be cut longer to allow
its pulley to be positioned away from the 1 x 4 so
it will align with the second pulley on the stepper.
After the leadnut can easily be turned by hand,

remove it from the leadscrew, re-install the spring
and collar, and put the leadnut back on the
leadscrew.
Install Leadscrews
The following directions are for one leadscrew;
both are installed the same way.
Slide an anti-whip
bearing block with its
bearing onto one end of
the leadscrew. The block
should be toward the end
of the leadscrew.
Slide the leadscrew
through a front or back
leg from the inside of the
table, that is, from the
notched side of the leg.
After the leadnut is on the leadscrew, slide the

second anti-whip block and bearing on the
leadscrews other end. Pass this end of the
leadscrew through the hole in the remaining leg.
Press a bearing into the 1
x 4 and over the end of
the leadscrew.
Install and tighten the
pulley into place. The
hub of the pulley can be
oriented toward the
bearing.
Leadscrew through leg

and bearing block.
Thread a leadnut onto the leadscrew. The flange of

the leadnut should be oriented toward the front of
the table and the mounting holes should already be
drilled in the flange.
Pulley and bearing at

1x4.
With a hub-less pulley a

washer will need to be placed between the pulley
and the bearing to prevent the pulley from rubbing
against the bearing. A flattened lock washer or a
section of inch copper plumbing pipe can be
used as the spacer on a inch leadscrew.
The pulleys set-screws may not seat well into the
leadscrews threads. Flats for the set-screws can be
X Leadscrews 97
filed into the leadscrews after the gantry is squared.

The pulleys final position will not be set until then.
Therefore, the set screws in the pulleys should not
be aggressively tightened into the leadscrews at this
time; but they should be tight enough to hold
position.
Slide a bearing block and
bearing over the front end of
the leadscrew. Check to use
the correctly oriented
bearing block, since the two
are mirrored. The block
should align with the leg; the
recess for the bearing will be
toward the outside of the
machine.
These directions are for one angle bracket. Both

are installed the same way; they should be done one
at a time. The first one will have to be removed for
the second one to be aligned. The first one will then
be re-installed.
Move the gantry to the back of the table.
Loosely attach the angle bracket to the end of the
gantry. It should be oriented with the leadnut leg
toward the back of the table.
Bearing block on end

of leadscrew.
Thread nuts or a clamp onto the front end of the

leadscrew. A section of hose with a hose clamp will
work for this clamp. Place a washer between the
hose and the bearing to prevent the hose from
pressing into the bearings seal.
Use the nuts or clamp to tension the leadscrew in
its bearings. There should be just enough tension to
barely hold the bearing block into position, but the
block should move easily. It is not a problem if the
leadscrew falls to the bottom of the hole in the leg
with the slightest twist or bump. Do not spend a lot
of time trying to adjust this tension; close is good
enough for now.
The leadscrews will receive their final tensioning
when the steppers are activated.
Move the leadnut to the back end of the leadscrew.
At this time the leadscrew should be in place and
should turn easily. The anti-whip bearings should
be rotated so they do not bind the leadscrew and
are out of the way; they will be attached to the legs
later after the steppers are activated.
Install both leadscrews.
Install Leadnut Angle Brackets
The brackets are held to the end plates with #8 x 1

inch machine screws which are threaded into the
end plates. The threads of the screws project
outward.
Nuts and washers pull the brackets against the end
plates.
Leadnut bracket on end plate.
The 5/8 inch hole in the bracket should be

positioned so it surrounds but clears the leadscrew.
Any and all of the holes in the bracket can be
altered to make the parts align.
Tighten the bracket to the end plate; this is not yet
a permanent connection, but it should be tight
enough to hold the bracket to position.
With the leadscrew parallel to the X pipe rail, abut
the leadnut to the angle bracket. Mark the position
of the leadnuts flange holes onto the leadnut
bracket.
Remove the bracket from the end plate, and drill
the flange connection holes in the bracket. They
can be drilled oversized for later adjustment.
X Leadscrews 98
Reattach the angle bracket to the end plate, and tie

the leadnut to the bracket with machine screws and
nuts with washers. All connections should be firm
enough to hold position.
Turn the leadscrew to move the gantry to the front
end of the table.
Tighten the front bearing block into place with a
single screw in the 1/4 inch hole. Use a washer
with the screw to prevent the hole from centering
on the screws head.
The leadscrew is now aligned with the movement
of the gantry. Fine tuning will be done after the
stepper is attached.
Remove the nuts that hold the leadnut bracket to
the end plate and swing the bracket out of the way
of the machine screws so the gantry can move
without hitting the leadnut bracket. It may be
necessary to back the machine screws out of the
end plate to give the bracket enough clearance.
Repeat this process to align the other leadscrew
and leadnut.
Once both sides are completed, use the single
leadscrew to move the gantry to the back of the
table. Also turn the other leadscrew to move its
leadnut to the back of the table.
Reattach the loose leadnut bracket to the end plate.
Each end of the gantry can now be moved by
turning a leadscrew.
Square the gantry with the X axis. This is done by
measuring from the end of the table and turning the
leadscrews so both ends of the gantry are the same
distance from the table ends. This will be a rough
alignment which can be fine tuned after the
machine is running. The belt(s) should not be
installed until the gantry is roughly square.
Install X Stepper and Belts
The directions for installing the belts, and steppers
with their plates and mounting hardware for all of
the leadscrew versions are covered in the previous
leadscrew sections. The stepper for one long belt

is on page 90, dual belts is page 92 and dual
steppers is on page 94.
Refer to these pages and install the stepper and belt
assembly.
The process of installing the belt(s) will probably
pull the gantry slightly out of square; this is not a
problem. This is why the pulleys were not
permanently tightened to the leadscrews.
The set screws on the pulleys can be loosened and
the leadscrews can be turned independently of the
pulleys. Once the gantry is square, the pulleys can
be permanently tightened into place. It may be
necessary to remove the pulleys to file flats into the
leadscrews threads. The mark left by the end of
the set screw will indicate where the flat should be
made.
The end plate connection holes in the leadnut angle
bracket may have enough play that the final
squaring of the gantry can be done by moving the
angle bracket rather than by turning a leadscrew.
The final adjustment of the axis is done after the
steppers are powered and can be jogged with the
software.
Sequence Review
At this time the two outside bearing blocks are
attached to the tables legs with only one screw
each.
The anti-whip bearing blocks are not attached to
the leg tops, but are hanging on the leadscrews.
The leadnuts are attached to the end plates.
The leadscrews are in place and have been
tensioned only enough to hold position.
After all axes are assembled, the steppers can be
activated and fine tuning can begin. This is
addressed on page 104.
The next section is for the X rack and pinion. It can
be skipped when the X axis uses leadscrews.
X Leadscrews 99
X Rack Supports, Introduction
For custom tables that have more travel than the

available length of the rack, it will be necessary to
trim and abut the shorter sections of rack so the
pinion will travel smoothly over the junction.
The racks cannot be installed on the X axis until the

gantry is in place. However, some of the work to
these components can be done before the gantry is
on the rails.
The racks are cut long by the supplier to permit end

dressing for abutment. This inch or so of extra
material can be left on the racks; it will extend
beyond the ends of the 48 inch long rack boards.
Final Assembly of Rack X Axis
On the prototypes the extra material was placed so

it projected toward the back of the table; this was
done to remove a potential snag, and for
appearance.
Holes for #8-32 screws are drilled through the
racks. The holes can be drilled smaller and tapped
but the racks metal is hard and thick. It is
challenging to tap the holes without breaking the
small tap. Drilling 11/64 inch holes and using nuts
with the machine screws is easier.
The rack support boards are made of inch

plywood, and can be drilled to match the holes in
the racks.
The holes in the rack are

drilled near the middle of
the side between the teeth
and the back. They should
be far enough from the
teeth that the screw heads
do not overhang the teeth
and interfere with the
pinions. Use the screws Position the screws so
themselves to check this their heads do not overlap
positioning before marking the racks teeth.
and drilling the holes.
The rack-blocks are made of 2 x 2 and can be cut to

length, but cannot be ripped to width.
The holes on the prototype are 7-1/2 inches apart.

This gives even spacing with adequate support.
Directions for these components follow.
Evenly spaced holes that were farther apart (around

11 inches) allowed the rack to flex. Holes that were
closer together did not seem to increase stability.
Racks
The loads on the rack on this machine do not

approach the racks ratings, so the holes do not
have to be 4 inches apart as they are in the factory
drilled units.
Rack support
system. End view.
Rack and pinion with

gantry in place.
Before work on the gantry begins, the pair of racks

can be cut to length, if they need to be, and the
holes can be drilled into them.
The racks are cut to length if needed. When a rack

is also used on the Y axis, a 6 foot section of rack
can be purchased and cut to the 4 and 2 foot
lengths; this saves a few dollars.
The racks can be cut and drilled now. The

dimensions are on the next page.
X Racks 100
Hole placement in racks. Holes are 3/16 inch from back of rack.
Rack-Boards
The rack support boards are made of inch ply or
equivalent that is ripped to 4-3/4 inches wide.
See the figure below.
They are 48 inches long, so they can be cut from the
end of a piece of plywood with no further cuts
necessary.
The woods grain direction does not matter as long
as the machine screws that tie the racks to these two
boards will not tear out.
The holes are then marked through the racks holes

and drilled. A board for each rack is required.
The holes in the bottom edge of the board are in line
with the top holes, but are 3/4 inch from the
boards bottom edge. These holes are pilot holes for
1-5/8 inch drywall screws or similar.
The screws should have washers on them so they
will not dig into the wood when tightened.
The bottom holes may need to be enlarged later so
the rack can be repositioned against the pinion.
The racks can be used as templates for the holes that

are drilled in the top edge of these boards.
These two boards can be cut and drilled before or

after the gantry is in place.
The rack is placed with the corner of its back flush

with the top edge of the board; the racks teeth face
the bottom edge of the board. See the image on the
preceding page.
The racks can also be attached to the boards at

either time. They are attached with 8-32 x 1-1/4 inch
machine screws and nuts with washers.
Rack support board made of inch plywood. Two are needed.
Rack Blocks
The rack blocks cannot be ripped to width until the
gantry is in place and measurements can be taken
from the pinions.
The blocks are 48 inches long and 1-1/2 inches wide,
which is the width of framing lumber. Therefore,
these pieces can be ripped from lumber or made of
a length of 2 x 2; this has an actual dimension of 11/2 x 1-1/2 inch.
The wood is ripped or planed to the proper width

after the gantry is on the X table.
Note that the holes in the rack block do not match
those in the rack board; this is so their mounting
screws will not interfere with each other.
The rack is wider than it needs to be for the applied
loads, so the pinion does not have to make full
contact with the rack width-ways. It of course has to
sit firmly in the rack to prevent backlash.
X Racks 101
It is important for the pinion to clear and not scrape

against the rack-board. The rack also has to be
firmly pressed into the pinions teeth.
The width of the rack blocks
is determined by placing a
straight-edge or plumb-level
vertically against the end of
the pinion and measuring the
distance between the straightedge and the 2 x 6 rail
support.
On the prototype this measure is just over 1-1/8

inches. The value was rounded up to 1-3/16 inches
so the pinion would not rub on the rack-board. The
rack block is ripped to this width.
This distance will not always be the same for the
entire length, or for both sides of the table. Measures
should be taken from various locations for each of
the two blocks; use the wider measures.
Width of rack block.
These two blocks can be cut to length before the

gantry is on the table, but they cannot be ripped to
width and installed until the gantry is on the X axis.
Rack block dimensions.
Placement of rack assembly. The front of the table is on the left.
Install Rack Blocks on X Axis

The rack assembly is installed after the gantry is on
the X rails.
The rack blocks should be cut to width as described
in the previous section.
Attach the rack-blocks to the table with their tops
flush with the tops of the 2 x 6 rail supports.
The end to end positioning is 8-1/2 inches from the
front of the table and 3-1/2 inches from the back of
the table as shown above.
Screw and glue the rack blocks to the table with 21/2 inch decking screws or similar. The screw heads
must be countersunk into the rack blocks.
These blocks are permanently attached to the table.

The adjustment for the rack to pinion tension is
between these rack blocks and the plywood rack
boards.
Install X Racks
Roll the gantry to the front of the table and rest a
rack, with its 4-3/4 inch rack board attached, on the
pinion. The other end of the rack assembly will rest
on the top of the back leg.
Loosely attach the rack-board to the rack-block with
one screw. The screw is driven in the hole that is in
the very end of the rack-board. A pilot hole for this
X Racks 102
screw can be drilled into the rack-block if necessary;

the block may split without pre-drilling.
Move the gantry to the other end of the axis. Be
careful not to drag the pinion over the racks teeth.
Slightly lift the rack assembly to give the pinion
clearance while moving the gantry to the back of the
X axis.
Firmly press the rack into the pinion, this should be
a tight mesh. Tightly screw the end of the rack-board
into the rack-block. Again, a pilot hole may be
needed here.
Move the gantry along the axis and press the rack
into the pinion while tightening the remaining rack
board screws into the rack block.
The gantry will have to be moved slowly so the
pinion can turn as it moves along the rack.
After one side is tightened, repeat the process on the
other side of the axis. The pinion on the side that
was first installed can be loosened on its axle so the
pinion can freewheel. This will make it easier to
move the gantry on the axis while installing the
second rack assembly.
After both racks are installed, the X belt and idler
can be tightened into place; see page 77.
The gantry may not sit square when at rest on the X
axis. The slightest offset with the bearings or endplates will cause the gantry to be pulled out of true.
This is not a problem.
The gantry is made square with the X axis by using
a framing square and/or measuring the distance from
the end of the X axis to the gantry.
The pinions are tightened on their axles to hold the
gantry square. Make sure to securely tighten the
pinions into place, they can ruin a job should they
work loose while the table is working.
There should be no backlash between the rack and
pinion once the rack boards and pinions are
tightened into place. It may be necessary to readjust
the rack after a few runs. The elasticity of the wood
should compensate for some of the potential play.
This junction should be checked occasionally for
backlash. Lash can be felt and heard as a clicking

rattle when the gantry is pushed by hand back and
forth on the X axis. Simply loosening one or more
rack-board screws and pressing the rack into the
pinion will readjust the fit.
The holes in the rack-board will have to be enlarged
to permit this adjustment.
Rack Board Tensioners

The rack boards and racks
can be pulled down and into
the pinions with brackets
made of aluminum flat bar
and threaded studs. These
pieces are optional, but they
do make rack tension
adjustment easier.
Three units are used on each
side; one is attached to the
center of the rack block and
rack board and the others are
attached near the ends.
The tensioners consist of a
piece of aluminum flat bar Tensioner pulling rack
board down.
that is cut and drilled as
shown.
This is screwed into the
bottom or the rack block
with a wood or drywall
screw.
The outside end is attached
to the rack board with a 2
inch stud that is cut from 10- Rack tensioner cut
24 threaded rod. The rod is from 1 or 3/4 inch flat
threaded into the edge of the bar.
rack board.
A 5/32 inch pilot hole is drilled into the edge of the
board and the stud is threaded into it. There is no
need to tap the hole first. Glue on the threads of the
stud will permanently secure it into the wood. A nut
pulls the board downward.
These can be installed and used to adjust the rack to
pinion tension.
The X axis and rack assembly are now complete.
Information regarding stepper set up follows.
X Racks 103
Steps per Unit

Steppers, Leadscrews, and Racks
The steppers are commanded to move the machine
by the drives, which receive signals from the
computers software.
The signals sent by the software must match the
actual movement of the machine, otherwise the
scale of the cut will be incorrect.
The software is configured to send a specific
number of step signals per unit of machine
movement. This Steps per Unit value is entered
into the softwares set-up dialogue boxes.
Derivation of these values is given in this chapter
along with background information of the
components.
The softwares documentation will probably also
address this. It is likely that the description there
and the presentation here will proceed differently,
but the final values will be the same.
These machines were designed to allow flexibility
in the choice of leadscrews and racks and pinions;
therefore, many Step-per-Unit values are possible.
These values depend on the properties of the
steppers, micro-stepping, leadscrews, gearing and
the racks and pinions.
This chapter describes the properties of each of
these components.
Steppers
The steppers from Xylotex and HobbyCNC move
1.8 per step; therefore, they must receive 200
steps for one revolution.
There are 360 in a circle or one revolution.
360 divided by 1.8 per step = 200 steps per
revolution.
The steppers top speed is usually well below 1000

rpm, and 400 to 600 rpm is a more realistic value
with the small steppers used in these tables.
The force that steppers can deliver rapidly
diminishes as their speed increases. Therefore, the
machines should be designed to require the steppers
to turn in the low 100s of revolutions per minute.
However the steppers power is still limited at slow
speeds, so the machine cannot be designed to move
the table a long way with low rpms.
Experience here has found that the small steppers
and drives from HobbyCNC and Xylotex give good
power up to 400 rpm with table movement below
1-1/8 inch per stepper revolution.
Micro-Stepping
Micro-stepping is a process done by the drives and
software that sends multiple step signals to the
stepper for each one of the 200 native steps.
Most of the smaller drives offer micro-stepping
values of 2, 4, 8 or more; others offer 10 microsteps.
Micro-stepping is used to make the stepper turn
more smoothly, and to help reduce resonance.
Micro-stepping is also frequently used to enhance
resolution. That is, to permit the machine to move
a smaller amount per step signal than the native
200 steps would permit.
Micro-stepping can significantly reduce the
delivered power of the stepper, so it is not always
a good way to improve resolution.
There are many myths about the value of microstepping; therefore, it is best to follow the
documentation supplied by the drive manufacturer.
Steppers 104
In this shop, micro-stepping is set to 8 for Xylotex,

10 for Geckos, and 2, 4 or 8 with HobbyCNC.
Different values work better with different
machines.
It is important to note that older slow computers
cannot send the multiple steps fast enough for the
machine to perform well, so using a larger number
of micro-steps can cause computer problems.
However, most computers that can handle
Windows XP are fast enough for any of the microstepping values.
Examples:
Micro-stepping of 2 will cause the stepper to step
400 times per revolution instead of the native 200.
Two steps are sent to the stepper for every one of
the 200 native steps. 2 x 200 = 400.
Similarly, micro-stepping of 8 will require that the
software send 200 x 8 = 1600 steps per every
revolution of the stepper.
Just to keep it confusing; micro-stepping is
sometimes defined as a fraction rather than as a
whole number. Thus, a micro-stepping value of
usually means that 2 step signals are sent for every
native step. In this manual the number is always
referred to as a whole number.
This is mentioned because some documentation
will refer to micro-stepping as a fraction.
Leadscrews, Turns and Threads per Inch

Leadscrews and threaded rods have a given number
of threads and turns per inch. These values
measure different aspects of the leadscrew.
On inexpensive single start threaded rod, as is
found in hardware stores, the turns per inch and
threads per inch are the same value.
A 1/4-20 rod has 20 threads per inch, so it has to
turn 20 times to move a nut one inch.
Other sizes of hardware store threaded rod include
1/4-20, 5/16-18, 3/8-16, and -13. The first
number is the diameter of the rod in inches, and the

second number is the number of threads per inch.
Again, with these cheap rods the number of threads
per inch and turns per inch are the same. This also
is true for general purpose Acme rod. Precision
Acme rod is available in multiple starts as well as
single start.
The term single start refers to the number of
continuous threads that are cut in the rod. A single
start rod has one thread that winds down the entire
length of the rod. The rods turns per inch and
threads per inch are the same value.
A two start rod has two parallel threads cut into
the rod. Rods are available with a variety of
numbers of starts.
To envision the starts, it may help to think of a
barber pole or candy cane. The pole or cane can
have a red stripe and blue stripe, (or two starts).
They are different stripes but they both spiral down
the pole together.
On leadscrews, the number of threads per inch,
divided by the number of starts, is the number of
turns per inch.
Note that TPI can be used to mean Turns Per Inch
and Threads Per Inch; this causes confusion. Take
care when ordering leadscrews.
Examples:
A 2 start rod with 10 threads per inch will turn 5
times to move the nut an inch. 102=5
It has 10 threads per inch and 5 turns per inch.
A 4 start rod with 8 threads per inch will turn 2
times to move the nut one inch. 84=2
It has 8 threads per inch, but only 2 turns per inch.
If the 2 turn per inch rod only had one start or
thread, and thus was also a 2 thread per inch rod,
most of the rod would be bare with one very coarse
thread winding down its length. A nut would have
very little material to grab.
Steppers 105
A multi-start rod gives more threads for the nut to

grab, but it is able to move the nut with fewer turns
of the rod.
Multi-start leadscrews work well with steppers,
because they allow the nut to move farther with
each turn of the stepper. Remember, steppers do
not perform well at high rpm, so they can not turn
a fine threaded rod rapidly enough to move the
axis quickly.
Examples:
A 1/4-20 threaded rod will only move the table 25
inches per minute when turned at 500 rpm.
500 rotations per minute 20 turns per inch = 25
inches per minute. This is okay for a hobby
machine, but it is slow.
A leadscrew that has 2 turns per inch will move the
table at 250 ipm when turned at 500 rpm.
500 2 = 250.
However, the smaller steppers usually cannot drive
the table that quickly due to the inefficiency of the
leadscrew, but they still outperform the leadscrews
that have a higher number of turns per inch.
There is more information about the speeds of
different leadscrews in the chart on page 111.
Cutting speeds above 60 ipm will help prevent the
bit from burning the wood, and speeds of 100 ipm
approach all that a small trim router can do.
Faster speeds require the depth of cut to be reduced
to keep from overloading the router, or the small
steppers, or the inexpensive CNC machine itself.
The hardware store rods cannot move the machine
very fast; multi-start leadscrews will give better
speeds. The catch is the multi-start rods are not
hardware store items and they are not cheap.
Therefore, the budget has to be considered when
making the leadscrew choices. Speed costs.
Racks and Pinions

Racks and pinions tend to have the opposite
problem of leadscrews. While leadscrews will
move the axes too little and too slowly, pinions will
move the axes too far and too quickly.
A 1 inch pitch diameter pinion will move the axis
1 multiplied by or 3.14 inches with each rotation
of the pinion. Compare this to the 1/20 to inch
moved per rotation with the leadscrews.
The small steppers lack the power to move the
larger machines this far and fast with direct 1 to 1
drive. Therefore, gearing has to be used, which
adds cost and complexity to the system.
Another disadvantage of this large travel per pinion
rotation is the lack of resolution. With a 1 to 1 gear
ratio between the pinion and stepper, there would
be 200 steps per 3.14 inches of axis travel.
3.14 inches/rotation 200 steps/rotation = 0.016
inch of axis movement per step.
This can be improved with micro-stepping, but as
mentioned previously, this is not always the best
way to improve resolution. So again, gearing is
required for the axis movement to be in concert
with the capabilities of the steppers.
Experience here has found that axis movement on
these machines is best kept around or below 1 inch
per stepper rotation. With 3 to 1 gearing, where the
stepper turns 3 times for every one turn of the
pinion, the axis will move just over one inch with
the 1 inch diameter pinion. Thus, a 3 to 1 ratio is
used on these pinion machines.
Racks and pinions allow the machine to be quite
fast. At 1.05 inches of travel per stepper rotation
the table will move over 500 ipm with the stepper
turning at 500 rpm. Again, the smaller steppers do
not have the power to move the machine this fast.
The chart on page 111 gives the speeds that the
Xylotex system achieved.
Steppers 106
These speeds sound appealing but they can cause

problems.
Jogging the machine this rapidly can make set-ups
annoying, since the table moves so far and fast
with each tap of the jog key.
It is necessary to toggle out of continuous jog and
into incremental jog to move the table a small
amount without re-setting the jog speed. This takes
time and is easy to forget. What was supposed to
be a small jog can turn into yet another bit breaker
or surface gouger.
Another factor is the table moves so abruptly that
it vibrates itself apart. Set-screws slip, parts
loosen, and the steppers miss steps as they whip the
machine from one direction to the other.
Just because a table can move rapidly does not
mean that it is the best way to run it.
Tables in this shop are kept around 100 ipm. This
is a good speed for routing, and it is not rough on
the machine itself.
This abruptness of motion can be alleviated by
lowering the acceleration of the axis. This is done
in the software. In Mach the acceleration
adjustment is with the speed adjustment. The slider
can be moved to alter the way the machine
behaves.
Some software requires that this value be entered

as the resolution rather than the Steps per Unit.
The resolution is simply the reciprocal of the Steps
per Unit; that is, one divided by the Steps per Unit.
Most steppers require 200 steps per one revolution.
The micro-stepping value will be determined by the
drive. Use the value recommended by the drive
supplier.
The turns per inch of the leadscrew is the thread
count divided by the number of starts, as was
previously addressed.
Here are two examples that represent extremes.
A standard stepper with 16 step micro-stepping
and a 20 turn per inch leadscrew.
200 steps per rotation x 16 micro-steps x 20 turns
per inch = 64000 steps per inch.
This is the value that is entered into the softwares
Steps per Unit box.
The resolution is 1/64000 = 0.0000156 inch per
step.
Every step signal sent to the drives will move the
machine 0.0000156 inch. This of course is far
smaller than the machine can be expected to move.
The backlash value will be larger.
A leadscrew example at the other extreme.
Determining Steps per Inch (Leadscrew)

As already mentioned, the software has to know
how far the machine moves with each step signal
that is sent to the drives.
With direct drive leadscrews the math is
straightforward. The factors needed to determine
the Steps Per Inch include:
Steps per revolution of the stepper.
The micro-stepping value.
The turns per inch of the leadscrew.
These values are multiplied together to give the
Steps per Unit value that is entered into the
softwares dialogue box.
A standard stepper with no micro-stepping and a 2

turn per inch leadscrew.
200 steps per inch x 1 micro-step per step x 2
turns per inch = 400 steps per inch.
Resolution is 1/400 = 0.0025 inch per step.
The machine will move 0.0025 inch per step. This
value is in line with the backlash values of
inexpensive leadnuts.
From these examples it becomes evident that most
any micro-stepping value and leadscrew will give
a resolution that is as good as the machine can
physically hold.
Steppers 107
The stepper turns 3 times for every 1 turn of the

pinion.
In the For What It Is Worth department:

Five turns per inch is a common size for
leadscrews and ballscrews.
This size works well with 200 step per revolution
steppers.
200 steps per revolution x 5 turns per inch = 1000
steps per inch. The resolution is 1/1000 or 0.001
inch per step. This is with no micro-stepping.
This value of 1/1000 inch is a realistic backlash
value to expect from a moderately priced CNC
table.
The speed of this machine with the stepper turning
at 500 rpm will be (500 rpm 5 turns per inch =)
100 inches per minute, which as previously
mentioned, is a good speed for a homemade
machine.
In summary, the steps per inch of a direct drive
leadscrew machine is the number of steps per
rotation of the stepper, multiplied by the microstepping as a whole number, multiplied by the
number of turns per inch of the leadscrew.
Determining Steps per Inch ( Rack and Pinion)

The step per inch value for racks and pinions is a
little more complex than for direct drive
leadscrews, but the basic ideas are the same.
The necessary values include:
Steps per rotation of the stepper.
Micro-stepping as a whole number.
Gear ratio between the stepper and the pinion.
Inches the pinion moves per one pinion rotation.
The first two values are straightforward and are
just like the stepper and micro-stepping values used
with the leadscrews.
The gear ratio is the number of teeth in the large
pulley divided by the number of teeth in the
steppers pulley. On these machines the pulleys are
36 and 12 teeth for a ratio of 3 to 1.
The inches the pinion moves in the rack per one

pinion rotation is found by multiplying the pinions
pitch diameter, which is given in the suppliers
specifications, by pi, or 3.1416.
The pinions used in the prototypes have a pitch
diameter of 1 inch and 3/4 inch.
Note: Use a calculator and do not round the values.
The software can handle multiple places behind the
decimal, and rounded values can alter the
machines accuracy.
Values are rounded in this section for simplicity.
The 1 inch pinion will move 1 x = 3.14 inches
per pinion rotation.
The 3/4 inch pinion will move 0.75 x = 2.36
inches per rotation.
For the pinion to turn once, the stepper will have to
receive the number of steps it needs to turn once,
multiplied by the gear ratio as a whole number.
With a 200 step stepper, and 8 micro-stepping
(which is what Xylotex recommends) and a 3 to 1
gear ratio, the stepper will have to receive (200 x 8
x 3 = 4800) steps from the drive and computer to
turn the pinion one time.
This value will then have to be divided by the
number of inches the pinion turns in one rotation to
give a value that is per inch rather than per 3.14
inches, for example.
200 x 8 x 3 / 3.14159 = 1527.887454 is the
number of steps per inch for the 1 inch pinion with
8 micro-stepping.
For the 3/4 inch pinion the value is:
200 x 8 x 3 / 2.35619449 = 2037.18327
These values are to be entered into the Steps per
Unit field in the software.
Steppers 108
Again their reciprocals are the resolution.

For the 1 inch pinion the value is
1/1527.887 steps per inch =
0.0006545 inch per step.
incrementally with one component at a time to find

the causes of drag and binding.
Each axis is tuned one at a time. Tuning is a trial
and error procedure and is best achieved by
working incrementally and in a sequence.
For the 3/4 inch diameter pinion:

1/2037.18327 steps per inch =
0.000490874 inch per step.
As with the leadscrew machines, these values are
better than the machines can physically hold.
The steps in the sequence include:
In summary the steps per inch of the axis is:
Align the leadscrew with the movement of the axis.

Align the leadnut with the leadscrew.
Tension the leadscrew.
Permanently secure the components.
Steps per rotation of the stepper, multiplied by

micro-stepping as a whole number, multiplied by
the gear ratio as a whole number, all divided by the
inches the pinion moves in one rotation.
The sequence begins with aligning the leadscrew by

using the leadnut to transfer the position of the
fixed end of the leadscrew to the bearing block end
of the leadscrew.
Final Tuning, Leadscrews
This has already been done in the initial alignment

and it may not be necessary to repeat the process.
The final tuning process is straightforward; it

repeats the steps already undertaken for the initial
alignment, but the steppers are used to speed the
work.
Turning the leadscrew with the stepper makes this

process faster and easier.
The leadscrew axes should all be assembled, and

the steppers should be configured and working.
X Axis Note:
The leadscrews are first adjusted independently of
each other.
With the single belt system it will be necessary for
both leadscrews to turn, though only one is tuned at
a time. The leadnut bracket on the side not being
tuned can be loosened so it will move with the
gantry, but will not introduce drag due to
misalignment.
On the other two belt systems, the leadnut bracket
can be swung away from the gantry end plate so
the gantry can move freely while the one leadscrew
is still.
After initial leadscrew alignment, both leadnuts are
attached to the gantry and both sides are tuned
together. Again, it is important to work
The leadscrew alignment procedure follows:

Align the leadscrew by eye so it appears to be in
line with the rails.
Move the axis to the stepper end and temporarily
tighten the leadnut into place.
Turn the leadscrew to move the axis to the far end
of the axis. The leadnut will support the leadscrew
and pull it into position.
Temporarily tighten the leadscrews bearing block
into place. The leadscrew is now roughly in line
with the travel of the axis.
The leadnut is then firmly secured into place at the
axis to bracket connection, and at the bracket to
leadnut connection. This is done with the leadnut at
the stepper end of the axis, since this end of the
leadscrew is not adjustable.
The axis is jogged from end to end at slow speeds
while checking for points where drag is most
pronounced. The excess resistance will cause the
stepper to stall.
Steppers 109
Sometimes the causes of misalignment are

challenging to find. In these situations starting the
process from the beginning and jogging the axis
while incrementally tightening the components will
usually remove the problems.
Occasionally the final tightening of a screw will
introduce drag. This indicates that there is a slight
misalignment at that specific place.
This usually happens with leadnuts that are not
made from Delrin. Metal nuts are less forgiving in
alignment. Using shims made from aluminum cans
or similar, to offset a nut or its bracket, can resolve
the problem.
The adjustments can be made between the leadnut
and its bracket, and between the bracket and the
axis.
Again, a minor offset can cause problems; the
solution can be as simple as loosening and retightening the component, or it may require
enlarging and realigning the attachment holes, or
using shims to achieve the proper alignment.
After it is clear that the leadscrew is in line with the
axis, the end bearing block is permanently secured
into place; on the X axis this is done with a drywall
screw in the second hole in the bearing block. On
the other axes this is done by tightening the bearing
blocks #8 nuts on the machine screws.
The anti-whip bearing blocks on the X axis are
secured into place. Drywall screws with washers
can be used here.
The leadscrew is tensioned with the nuts or a clamp
at its end.
The leadscrew should be tight enough to not move
end to end, it cannot be tightened too firmly or the
bearings will be overloaded.
The X leadscrew axis gantry should be checked
for square. It can be brought to square by
loosening the drive belt and turning a pulley.
Each tooth on the pulley will be 1/15 of the
distance the axis moves per full leadscrew rotation.
On a 5 turn per inch leadscrew, this is 1/15 x 0.2
inch = 0.0133 inch per pulley tooth. The pulley can

be turned in its loosened belt.
For finer adjustment the connection between the
leadnut bracket and the end plate can be adjusted,
or the pulleys set screws can be loosened and the
leadscrew can be turned.
The steppers speed is increased while testing for
unrestricted movement.
At some point the maximum speed for the axis will
be reached. The stepper will be unable to
dependably move the axis at that speed without
stalling. The speed is backed down and all of the
components are checked for secure attachment.
This process is used to align all of the leadscrews.
Each leadscrew will behave differently and the
settings in the software may be different for each
axis even when identical leadscrews, nuts and
steppers are used.
Drive System Comparisons

The chart on page 112 lists some of the real world
results of the machines in these plans. As is
expected, speed costs.
Belts are the most efficient option, but they
rebound with rapid movement. They wear over
time and their tension has to be checked regularly.
Long belts stretch and are not suitable for very
long axes and aggressive cutting. Long belts are
also somewhat costly. Therefore, this table does
not use belts; they are mentioned for comparison.
Racks are fast but the rack to pinion mesh has to
be maintained. Racks are useful for very long axes;
the racks can be abutted to one another for infinite
length. Their backlash tends to be worse than
leadscrews.
Racks are faster than leadscrews, but the necessary
gearing adds complexity. On this machine the cost
of parts is similar for both options, though high
quality leadscrews will boost the price.
Steppers 110
Ballscrews are fast but expensive. The cheapest

ones have backlash in the 0.003 inch range. Their
6 foot maximum length limits table travel to around
5 feet. Longer screws are available but costly.
Unlike Acme and Allthread, ballscrews are not of
a diameter that can be securely slid into a standard
bearing; therefore, their ends have to be machined
to fit. Threads also have to be cut into their ends so
they can be tensioned into their support bearings.
This extra machining adds significantly to the cost
of ballscrews when a metal lathe is not at hand.
It is possible to cobble a bearing and tensioning
system, but it is unlikely to take full advantage of
the ballscrews potential. Using ballscrews on a
wooden hardware store machine may not be the
best use of resources.
Multi-start precision Acme threaded rod with antibacklash nuts are fairly fast and have respectable
backlash values. The Delrin anti-backlash nuts can
add drag, but this can diminish over time.
These nuts will flex under severe loading, and
permit chatter, so they are not suitable for heavy
work. However, they work well on tables made
with hardware store materials. As with ballscrews,
Acme rods over 6 feet long are not always sold by
retail suppliers, and they are expensive.
Standard Acme threaded rods are cheaper than
multi-start Acme rods. They are easier to use
because standard Acme nuts are available for
mounting. The speeds are fair, but slower than
those of multi-start Acme rods.
Standard Acme nuts can be used as leadnuts, but
on larger diameter rod the backlash approaches
0.006 inches. Delrin anti-backlash nuts are
available for standard Acme rods. They are more
forgiving to align than metal leadnuts.
Standard hardware store Allthread threaded rod is
the cheapest threaded rod available. It is simple to
use since a variety of nuts are available including
tee nuts and rod couplers. The backlash values of
rod couplers as leadnuts are surprisingly good.
As with standard Acme rod, the availability of
standard sized nuts makes Allthread leadscrew
installation and tensioning easy and inexpensive.
Allthread is the slowest leadscrew, both because of

its rough surface and because of its high thread
count.
Anti-backlash nuts are available for the smaller
diameter Allthread rod. Half inch diameter rods
surface is so rough that Delrin anti-backlash nuts
do not work well with it.
Over-driving Allthread was attempted here in an
effort to achieve faster cutting speeds. The rods are
inefficient and the results were disappointing.
There seems to be no easy way to get better
performance out of a cheap rod.
These products were tested with a Xylotex 420
oz.in. stepper and drive package. A damper was on
the stepper to improve performance by reducing its
resonance.
Comparison Table
The values listed in this table are primarily for a
single leadscrew, rack, or belt axis with 2 feet of
travel.
These speeds were on a Y gantry axis; X speeds
are similar when using two racks, belts or
leadscrews, but doubling the number of
components adds to the cost and slightly slows the
movement.
The listing is primarily in order by speed of rapids
with the fastest at the top of the chart. Cutting
speeds were slower. Every option that could rapid
over 100 ipm could also cut at 100 ipm.
All systems use a pulley on the stepper, with
another on the pinion axle, or leadscrew. The
coupling pulley and belt prices are similar with all
systems in this chart.
The coupling systems without a 1 to 1 ratio are
slightly more expensive due to the one larger
pulley. All support bearings were homemade and of
comparable price, whether for pinions or
leadscrews.
System Comparisons 111
N ote: Prices vary considerably between suppliers, prices are listed for general comparison.
D istance
(inch) per one
stepper turn
R apid Speed
Inches per
Minute
G ear R atio:
Stepper turns to
screw or pinion
turns
Max
Stepper
rpm
Price for 2 ft
of travel
3ft screw
2 ft rack
500+
4 to 1
444
$25 Belt
$15 Pulley
Belt drive
L x 3/4"
1.125 inch
R ack
1" pinion
1.05
485 (on X dual

racks and pinions)
3 to 1
461
$15 rack,
$13 pinion
$28
Minimal backlash, fewer components

than belt drive, not as fast as belt.
R ack
0.75" pinion
0.79
350
3 to 1
440
$15 rack,
$13 pinion
$28
Minimal backlash, slower than larger

pinion but still fast. E asier to install
with smaller bearings, inexpensive for
speed.
5/8" Ballscrew
5 tpi
C heapest
Ballscrew
Available
0.2
180
1 to 1
900
$46 leadscrew,
$24 ballnut
(not preloaded)
$70+
0.002 backlash, noisy, fast, requires

large bearing mounts and machining
of screw ends.
Most expensive but gives good speed
and cutting forces.
5/8" Ballscrew
5 tpi
0.32
250
1 to 1.6
O verdrive
781
$46 leadscrew,
$24 ballnut
$70
0.002 backlash
faster rapid, cutting force similar.
-10-5-2 A cm e
two turns per
inch
0.5
200 ipm
D umpster nut
1 to 1
400
$28 screw
$25 nut
$53
N ut must break-in. G ood backlash.

Easy to align. O ne of the faster
choices.
3/8-10-2 start
precision A cm e
0.2
126
D umpster nut
1 to 1
$28, screw,
$15 nut
$43
0.002 backlash, small bearing

mounts, machining of screw ends not
mandatory. Simpler and less
expensive than ballscrew,
cutting speed above 100 ipm .
3/8-10-2 start
precision A cm e
0.225
126
D umpster nut
1 to 1.125
O verdrive
494
$28, screw,
$15 nut
$43
N o noticeable difference with

minimum overdrive.
3/8-10-2 start
precision A cm e
0.32
146
D umpster nut
1 to 1.6
O verdrive
456
$28, screw,
$15 nut
$43
Little faster, forces still okay.
1/2-10 A cm e
standard
0.1
78
S tandard A cm e
nut
1 to 1
780
$7 screw,
$2 nut
$9
Acme nut loose, worse backlash of all

listed options, 0.006+ backlash. R ods
straight, solid, cheap. (Enco)
1/2-10 A cm e
standard
0.1
45 Dumpster nut
up to 80 after nut
wore in.
1 to 1
450 to
800
$7 screw,
$15 nut
$22
Minimal backlash but initially VERY

stiff nut. Not very high cutting forces
because of drag from nut. Improved
significantly with use.
3/8-12 A cm e
standard
0.0833
53 Acme nut
1 to 1
636
$13 screw,
$2 nut
$15
.004 backlash rods arrived very bent,

bad whipping.
3/8 -16 Allthread
0.0625
60 Allthread nut
1 to 1
960
$2.75 screw,
$0.25 nut
$3
0.004 backlash not bad for cost, can

choose straight rod at store.
5/16-14 A cm e
standard
0.071
55 Acme nut
1 to 1
770
$25 screw,
$2 nut
$27
Easy to install, performance is only

fair, but a little faster than allthread.
5/16-18
Allthread
0.0555
45 Allthread nut
1 to 1
810
$2.50 screw,
$0.50 nut
$3
C heap simple but slow, backlash

comparable to 3/8" and 5/16"
standard acm e, better than 1/2" acm e
nut. Sm all diameter allows direct
coupling to stepper.
630
System Comparisons 112
T otal
N otes
$40
Bounce, but minimal backlash,

fast, quiet, extra idlers and tension
system required.
Material and Design Considerations

These machines were designed around hardware
store and lumber yard materials to keep prices low
and construction simple.
Wood and Aluminum
As shown in the chart, there is a large range in the
rigidity of the materials that are frequently used for
homemade machines. The values in the chart are
from a variety of sources including manufacturers,
and building codes.
Interestingly, and against common wisdom, the
chart indicates that MDF is one of the poorest
choices in terms of rigidity, though it is smooth and
stable.
It is also notable that, in terms of bending, a good
pine 2 x 4 or joist can perform as well as a piece of
oak or maple.
Simple tests conducted in this shop are consistent
with the chart.
Solid wood is stiffer than MDF, hardboard and
plastics.
Solid wood along the grain is stiffer than plywood,
but across the grain it is more flexible than
plywood.
Different types of plywood performed similarly.
Pine core sheathing ply was just as stiff, or even
stiffer, than poplar or spruce-pine-fir core
plywood.
The number of ply layers did not make an
appreciable difference in rigidity for the same
thickness of plywood.
Material
Low D ensity Polyethylene
Young's Modulus (E)

in lbf/in (psi)
30,000
H D PE
200,000
MD F
530,000
T empered Hardboard
588,000
O ak
800,000 - 1,600,000
Sheathing Plywood
1,000,000 - 1,900,000
Spruce-Pine-Fir
1,000,000 - 1,900,000
Yellow Poplar
1,200,000 - 1,500,000
Birch
1,200,000 - 1,900,000
Southern Yellow Pine
1,200,000 - 1,900,000
H ard Maple
1,300,000 - 1,900,000
Aluminum Alloy
10,000,000
W rought Iron and Steel
30,000,000
The Modulus of Elasticity of steel is three times

that of aluminum, and aluminums is 5 to 12 times
that of wood. These values are determined across
a given area, which of course means that a thick
board can be as stiff as a thin piece of metal.
Aluminum flat bar and angle of 3/4 and 1 x 1/8
inch are used in all of the machines for bearing
trucks, braces and cross ties. These sizes are
hardware store items that are usually locally
available.
The raw materials dimensions of this machines
gantry and carriage were sized to be the same as
stock sizes of aluminum flat bar; therefore,
substitution is straightforward.
Multi-ply plywood, cabinet ply, did have a better

surface and was more consistent in its quality, but
it was no stiffer.
The aluminum version has been prototyped, and it

is stiffer than the wooden models. It can handle
more aggressive cuts before chatter becomes a
problem. The aluminum adds around $200 to the
price.
This indicates that well chosen sheathing ply and

framing lumber can work as well as any other
wood, and the prices are lower.
Notes regarding the alterations necessary for the

aluminum version are on page 132.
Materials and Design 113
Rails
The rails on which the X and Y bearings ride are
3/4 inch Inside Diameter gas pipe. This is
inexpensive and easily found. It is not as hard as
other choices, and tracks will be pressed into the
pipes surface by the bearings. These tracks will
stabilize once they widen.
It may be necessary to readjust the bearings
tension after the first hours of use. Simple
adjustment systems are built into the machine.
Drill rod can be used in place of the gas pipe. It
would be tapped rather than drilled for the stud
connections. It is smoother and harder than gas
pipe, but it is not available in longer sections and is
not found at home centers.
Round pipe rather than square tubing is used
because a round surface is more forgiving of
bearing misalignment as well as of installation
offsets. Also the surfaces of standard steel tubing
are frequently scuffed and dinged from handling.
The rail to beam connection system has been
redesigned in this machine as compared to the other
machines shown on the website. The other rails rest
in cradles made of small metal channels.
Channels of the proper size are not easily available
internationally, and they add cost; therefore, they
were eliminated on this machine.
Simply tightening large studs into the rails and
beams has proved to be as stable as the channel
method. This system does not require tapping the
pipe rail, and it is more forgiving of hole
misalignment since the stud can swivel in its
mount.
Bearings
Standard sized bearings were chosen for all
applications so they would be easy to find from a
variety of online suppliers including vxb.com and
skatebearings.com.
Skate bearings, size 608 bearings, are used to ride
the rails on all axes. The bearings are 8 x 22 mm
which is close enough to 5/16 x 7/8 inch to be used

with 5/16 inch leadscrews and homemade 7/8 inch
bearing blocks. These bearings are often locally
available from sports shops and department stores.
Skate bearings are available in a range of quality.
Anything that has an ABEC rating has worked
well. Bearings without any rating can be of low
quality; their cases can be too thin to ride the rails
without fatiguing and failing.
There are no thrust bearings used in these
machines. The machines thrust loads and cutting
forces are within the standard bearings ratings.
Leadscrews
There are many options for the leadscrews, they
can range from 5/16 inch threaded rod to inch
multi-start precision Acme rod. A ballscrew was
also tested on the prototypes, but its price was hard
to justify on a wood and gas pipe machine.
The sizes preferred here on the prototypes were 3/8
inch two start on the Z and Y axes and inch on
the X axis. The inch had minimal whipping
problems for the longer axis.
The chart in the previous section lists performance
and cost information for a variety of leadscrews.
The Acme and Allthread leadscrews can fit inside
standard bearings without machining. This
simplifies construction since a metal lathe is
unnecessary.
The machines X and Y axes are sized to use both
7/8 and 1-1/8 inch OD bearings which are
available with bores that will fit these leadscrews.
Note that some multi-start Acme leadscrews of a
given diameter may not fit inside bearings of the
same named size. This can usually be remedied
with a little hand filing of the leadscrew; the screw
can also be turned with a drill while sanding or
filing the threads. Do not use a powerful drill for
this sanding; fingers can be caught and wrapped
around the rod should the drill fail to stall.
Materials and Design 114
Belts and Pulleys

The leadscrews and pinion axles on all axes are
coupled to the steppers with XL belts and pulleys.
Heavier L pulleys are not available with bores
small enough for the NEMA 23 steppers, and
MXL belts are not rated for the low-speed forces
that the steppers can deliver.
Fifteen tooth pulleys are used because they are
available in a variety of bore sizes. This allows
differently sized leadscrews to be used while using
the same belt lengths and gear ratios in all versions.
Fifteen tooth pulleys also permit over six belt teeth
to be in contact with the pulleys at all times, so
ratcheting and tooth stripping are less likely.
Twelve tooth pulleys are used on the Z axis to save
space; the leadscrew is small enough that a large
bore is unnecessary. Twelve teeth is the minimum
recommended tooth count by the manufacturers,
though 10 tooth pulleys are available.
A belt and pulley coupling was chosen because it
is more forgiving in its alignment than many direct
drive systems. It also has less backlash than lower
priced spider coupling systems.
The cost of the short belts and small pulleys is on
par with low cost spider couplers, and the cost is
significantly less than precision direct drive
couplings.
A belt and pulley system also offsets the stepper
from the leadscrew and rails. This permits more
clearance for different leadscrew and leadnut
configurations.
Racks and Pinions
be kept to a lower ratio. This permitted the use of

smaller pulleys which are less expensive and allow
a more compact machine.
Pinions can ratchet on the racks and lose position.
This is addressed on this table by positioning the X
racks above the pinions so the uplift from
aggressive cuts presses the pinions firmly into the
racks.
The steppers will stall and other parts will flex
before the pinions skip teeth. However, it is
important to check the rack to pinion junction for
backlash, and to occasionally readjust the fit.
Table Sizing
The machine is dimensioned to efficiently use 5
foot pipes and 4 foot racks on the X axis, and 3
foot rods and a 2 foot rack on the Y axis.
The lengths of the X and Y axes can easily be
altered.
The length of the X axis can be changed without
making any modifications to the other axes.
Altering the Y axis will require reworking the
width of the X axis.
The most straightforward way to change the size of
the machine is to add, or subtract, the difference
between the prototypes size and the desired size, to
the dimensions given in these plans.
The relationships between the sizes of the
machines components are given in the following
sections. This can be tedious to read. Again the
simplest way to alter the dimensions is to add or
subtract the desired size difference to all
components given measures.
Lengthening X Rack and Pinion
A draw-back with rack and pinion drive is the

pinion will travel too far with each rotation to be
directly driven by the stepper. The resolution
suffers and the stepper lacks the power to move the
table quickly. Therefore, gearing is necessary. The
smallest available pinions were chosen so the
gearing between the stepper and the pinion would
Lengthening the rack version of the X axis is

straightforward. Racks can be abutted to each
other for extended lengths.
The ends of the racks will need to be trimmed for
Table Sizing 115
the teeth to match when they are abutted. A section

of rack can be pressed into the matching ends teeth
to align the teeths spacing as the racks are
tightened into position.
Acme rod leadscrews are commonly sold in six foot

lengths. Using the entire length with no waste will
give around 58 inches of axis travel. A inch
diameter leadscrew works well for this length.
The total pipe rail length will need to be the length

of the gantry end plates, 10-1/4 inches, plus the
length of the racks.
To determine the rail and table length, the

leadscrews length lost to the other table
components has to be determined.
The rails in the plans are around 11 inches, rather

than 101/4 inches, longer than the racks because
5 feet was a round number for the table length, and
the racks are cut about an inch longer than their
named dimension.
This extra rack length is added by the supplier so
the racks can be dressed for abutment.
The lengths of leadscrew that are lost to the

structure of the table are shown in the images.
These include:
The only distance of rack that is lost to other

components of the table is the short distance at
each end that the pinion cannot pass beyond
without the risk of derailing. For example, a 48
inch long rack will safely give 47-3/4 inches of
maximum travel.
To take full advantage of the racks potential
travel, the rack will have to be offset toward the
back of the table, just as is done on the prototype in
these plans.
It is easier to use the gantrys actual movement as
the guide for the rack placement than to bother
with the math.
Move the gantry to the very end of the table and
rest the end of the rack on the pinion. This will
align the maximum rail travel with the maximum
rack and pinion travel.
In summary, the table and X rails need to be 10-1/4
inches longer than the desired cutting length, and
the rack needs to be around 1/4 inch longer than
the desired cutting length. Other than the rack
supports, no other alterations are required.
X Leadscrews
The table in the plans was dimensioned for 48 inch
racks and 60 inch rails. Slightly lengthening the
machine will take full advantage of 72 inch
leadscrews.
1 inch . . . . . .two Acme nuts

3/8 inch . . . . bearing block
3/4 inch . . . .1 x 4 end plate
7/8 inch. . . . .15 tooth XL pulley
3 inches . . . . Total length lost.
Front end of X axis.
Pulley end of X
axis.
An additional half inch can be included in this

lost distance for a nut on the outside of the
pulley. This extra nut can make tuning easier.
Loosening the pulleys set screws will allow the
pulley to freewheel while the nut still holds the
pulley onto the leadscrew.
A extra inch must be added to the lost 3 inches for
the two belt one stepper X axis. The extra length
is required for one of the pulleys to align with the
second pulley on the stepper.
This total value, 3 to 4-1/2 inches, is subtracted
from the length of the stock leadscrew, 72 inches,
to give the length of the X rails and their 2 x 6
beams as well as the table bed.
72 - 3 = 69 inches. This is the maximum length of
the table and rails with a 6 foot leadscrew. This is
the table length, not the maximum X travel.
The travel of the gantry on the X rails is limited by
the length of the gantrys end plates and the
Table Sizing 116
distance between the X bearings. The end plates

are 10-1/4 inches long. To determine the maximum
travel, this end plate length is subtracted from the
length of the pipe rails and table.
69 inches minus 10-1/4 inches = 58-3/4 inches of
travel.
The length of the gantrys 2 x 6 beam is the length

of the pinion axle or leadscrew, less the combined
width of the end plates and the distance required by
the pinion or bearings and pulley.
The difference between the total X leadscrew

length and the cutting length is between 13-1/4
inches and 14-3/4 inches. Fifteen inches is a safe
round number to use.
The router bit will be nearly in line with the front
bearings of the end plates. Therefore, the cutting
area on the table bed will be from the very front
end of the table bed to 10-1/4 inches from the
back end of the table bed.
The X leadnuts and table leg tops are already
sized and positioned to take advantage of the
maximum leadscrew travel. These dimensions do
not have to be altered.
Relationships between gantry dimensions.
The combined distance is 1-3/8 inch at each end for

a total of 2-3/4 inches. Images below.
Other alterations of the X axis length will involve

the same dimensions; these are the 3 or more inches
for the pulley, bearings and nuts, and the 10-1/4
inches for the length of the gantry end plates.
Example:
A 48 inch leadscrew would require a table of 45
inches (48 minus 3 inches = 45 inches). And the
travel would be 45 inches minus 10-1/4 inches =
34-3/4 inches. Again, the table will have to be an
inch shorter when the leadscrews are driven by two
belts with one stepper.
Length of Y Gantry
The gantry on the prototype was designed to use a
36 inch solid rod as the axle for the X pinions, and
a 36 inch threaded rod for the Y leadscrew.
Note: This width uses the leadscrew to its absolute
fullest. Extra length on each end of the leadscrew
is required when additional locking nuts are used.
Leadscrew
projecting from
gantry end plate.
Pulley and endplate dimensions.
Pinion against
end plate.
The prototypes gantry beam is cut to 33-1/4

inches, which is 36 inches less 2-3/4 inches.
The gantry end plates are 1-1/4
inches from the inside face of the
X rail supports. Therefore, the
maximum space available for the
carriage to ride is the length of
the gantry beam (33-1/4 inches)
minus these two 1-1/4 inch
spaces lost to the rail supports.
The 33-1/4 inches for the gantry Distance lost to X
rail support. The
beam, minus 2-1/2 inches for
gantry is toward
the right.
Table Sizing 117
both rail supports = 30-3/4 inches of distance

available for the carriage to travel.
The width of cut is this total possible travel
distance, less the width of the carriage.
The carriages body is 6 inches wide and the
tension rods project around 1/8 inch from each side
of the carriage. This total distance of 6-1/4 inches
is subtracted from the maximum available travel
distance to yield the total cutting width of the Y
axis.
The 30-3/4 inches of maximum space to travel,
minus 6-1/4 inches lost to the width of the carriage
= 24-1/2 inches total axis cutting width.
This 24-1/2 inches also works well with a 24 inch
rack, especially since they are cut long by the
manufacturer for end dressing, and the actual
length is nearer 25 inches.
Therefore, a 24 inch rack and a 36 inch leadscrew
both give the prototypes a little over 24 inches of Y
cutting width.
The dimensions of 2-3/4 inches for the end plates
and pinions or pulley and bearing block, plus 2-1/2
inches for the X rail supports, plus the 6-1/4 inches
for the carriage, add to 11-1/2 inches. Therefore, as
a general guide, the Y leadscrew needs to be 1 foot
longer than the desired cutting width.
These values of course can be used to start with
different givens.
For example a 36 inch gantry beam would require
a pinion axle of ( 36 + 2-3/4 ) = 38-3/4 inches.
It would have a cutting width of (36 minus 6-1/4
for the carriage, minus 2-1/2 for the X supports =
36 less 8-3/4) = 27-1/4 inches cutting width.
Again, these dimensions only allow 7/8 inch of
leadscrew to extend from the ends of the gantry.
Wider bearings, pulleys or additional end nuts will
require more leadscrew length.
Note: The pinion axle has a inch diameter and it

is driven by the stepper at one end. Therefore, there
will be slight flexing along the length of the axle.
This has not been a problem on the prototypes,
though a inch rather than a 3/8 inch axle was
chosen to reduce the twisting.
Axles on commercial tables frequently are 3/4 inch
in diameter. When using these plans as a base for
a markedly wider or more powerful machine it is
important to consider the twisting of the pinion
axle.
The Y rack length is simply the desired cutting
width plus 1/4 inch so the pinion will not fall off
the ends of the rack.
The Y rail length is the Y travel distance (not
cutting distance) less 1/4 inch to give ample
clearance between the bottom Y rail and X rails.
Note: The rail length can be shorter than the total
available travel distance because the centers of the
Y bearings are inch from the ends of the
carriage; therefore, they can slightly overhang the
ends of the rails without derailing.
Widening the gantrys cutting width can be done
simply by adding the desired additional length to
the existing dimensions of the gantry components.
This distance will also have to be added to the
width of the X axis.
See the image at the bottom of the following page.
Widening the X Axis

The X axiss width has to match the gantrys
width.
The most straightforward way to do this is to alter
the prototypes X width dimensions by the same
amount as the Y dimensions were altered.
However, a potential problem exists with the length
of the X belts for the X leadscrew machine,
especially for the one long belt version.
Table Sizing 118
Long belts are not available in the variety of

lengths that shorter belts are. Therefore, finding a
belt to fit a specific width of the machine can be a
problem.
This is a reason that a dual belt option is presented
in these plans.
Sdp-si.com has a pulley calculator that is useful for
determining the length of belts required for
differently sized pulleys and center distances.
The URL is https://sdp-si.com/Cd/default.htm.
Be sure to click the XL belt size; their default size
is MXL. This machine uses 15 tooth XL pulleys on
the X and Y leadscrews.
Determining Length of One Long Belt

One way to find the length of the belt is to add the
desired additional table width to the existing
leadscrew center distance, which is 35-5/8 inches,
and use the sdp-si pulley calculator to determine
the belt length. Then add 42 teeth or 8.4 inches to
this value. The 8.4 inches is the additional amount
of belt required to wrap around the idler and
stepper pulley.
Another way to determine the length of the belt is
to double the additional width of the new table as

compared to the prototype, and add that length to
the prototypes belt. For example, a 5 inch wider
table will require a 10 inch longer belt. The
prototypes belt is 82.8 inches long.
The position of the idler can be moved to allow for
differently sized belts. It will not be possible to
always adjust the belts tension by rotating the
stepper plate. The hole for the idler should be
drilled after its position is determined with the belt
in place.
Determining Length of Two Short Belts

The easiest way to determine the new belts length
is to add the additional width of the table to each
original belts length. The prototypes pair of belts
are 39 inches long with 195 teeth.
A table that is 5 inches wider will require two belts
that are each 5 inches longer.
The stepper does not have to be mounted on the 1
x 4 end plate. When belts with the exact required
length cannot be found, the stepper can be attached
to a plate that extends below the 1 x 4 in order to
achieve the proper tension.
Back view of X leadscrew table.
Table Sizing 119
Materials, Plywood
One sheet of inch plywood will supply more
than enough sheet stock for the machine. The
table bed can be made of inch ply rather than
tee slot MDF, and the other parts can be cut
from the remainder.
All of the plywood parts for the Y and Z axes
can be cut from a 24 inch square piece of
plywood.
These small 2 ft. square pieces of plywood are
often available at home-centers; they are
overpriced but handy when a small section is
needed.
Note that the Z top will be either 5(4-7/8) or 81/2 inches long; these parts are shown
overlapping in the drawings.
Pieces cut from sheet of plywood.
The dimensions for the gantry and carriage are

based on stock sizes of aluminum flat bar, so
widths of 3, 5 and 6 inches are used frequently.
Therefore, the inch plywood can be ripped
into strips of these widths and then cut to
length.
Notes for the aluminum version are on page
132.
Rack pieces cut across plywood.
These drawings are rough dimensions, they

should not be used as cutting guides other than
for the 3, 5 and 6 inch widths. The 10 inch
height of the Z carriage components will vary,
and these pieces should not be cut until
measurements are taken from the actual gantry
as described in these plans.
All of the aluminum used for the wooden
versions is 1/8 inch thick. Angle of 3/4 and 1
inch is used as well as 1 inch flat bar. Other
sizes could be used but are not specified in the
plans because they usually are not hardware
store items.
Y and Z pieces cut from 24 inch square piece of plywood.
Materials 120
Plastic Bearing Blocks

Kitchen cutting board plastic is
used for the bearing blocks. The
material should be close to 3/8
inch thick so the bearings will be
able to rest on a 1/8 inch
shoulder in the plastic.
Wood could be used for the
blocks but it has a tendency to
loosen or split when cut into
these small sizes. Aluminum
could be used too of course, but
metal of the required thickness
can be challenging to machine for
the home-shop builder.
The image on the right shows

that all bearing blocks can be cut
from a 5 x 5 inch piece of
material. Only a piece that is 11/2 x 4 inches is required when
the X axis does not use
leadscrews.
The Y rack and Y leadscrew
blocks are shown on top of each
other since only one or the other
will be needed.
Bearing blocks made from cutting

board plastic.
Stepper Mounting Plates

The plates for the steppers can be made
of a variety of materials including 1/4
inch tempered hardboard, Lexan, and
1/4 inch kitchen cutting board; 1/8 inch
or 16 gauge aluminum can be used also.
Plastic or tempered hardboard that is
1/8 inch thick can be used but the
material may flex or crack where the
holes are near the edges. A cheap
source for a small piece of 1/8 inch
thick hardboard or plastic is a Dollar
Store clip board.
The plate for the single stepper two
belt system must be thin to allow belt
clearance. One pulley has to be as close
as possible to the stepper.
Stepper mounting plates.
It is easier to tighten the steppers pulleys onto the

steppers when these plates are thin, 1/4 inch or
less; thicker material can block the pulleys setscrews.
The image shows the three X leadscrew stepper
plate options with the Z plate.
The X rack stepper mounting plate is not shown
because it needs to be stiff; it is made of inch

plywood.
The Y stepper mounts are not shown because they
are integrated into the gantry end plate or the
carriage top plate.
The Z plate can be made of inch plywood,
though it is more difficult to attach its pulley when
the plate is this thick.
Materials 121
The first section of each of the lists gives the parts

that are common to all versions. The remainder of
each list gives the materials for each version.
Suppliers
Suppliers for the Acme leadscrews include
mcmaster.com, use-enco.com and mscdirect.com.
Mcmaster.com also sells ballscrews, and racks and
pinions.
Allthread threaded rods are available from home
centers. Long sections are used for hanging
conduit, and they may be found in the electrical
section of the store rather than the bolts and
hardware section.
Each leadscrew requires a leadnut. Hardware store
tee nuts can also be used as leadnuts on Allthread.
These work reasonably well, though their backlash
will be worse by a few thousandths of an inch.
Dumpstercnc.com sells a variety of anti-backlash
nuts made of Delrin. These have proved to work
well, and his prices are generally better than those
of the leadscrew suppliers.
The bearings can be from a variety of sources;
vxb.com and skatebearings.com have served well.
Their prices and options are wider than many other
suppliers. Vxb.com also sells on Ebay.
The skate bearings can frequently be purchased in
large lots at prices well below the per piece cost. It
can sometimes be cheaper to buy a lot of 50 or
even 100 than to pay for the 32 individual bearings
used on the tables. These bearings may also be
available locally in sports shops and Wallmart.
Bearings with any ABEC rating have worked well.
Sdp-si.com and econobelt.com have proved to be
good suppliers for the pulleys and belts. Econobelt
tends to be a little less expensive, but their selection
is smaller.
Parts Lists
The parts are shown in multiple lists. The first
three lists are by axis and include the materials for
all of the different options.
The fourth list gives the total materials for each of

the three versions of the machines. It does not give
a parts-use or break-down. This list makes it clear
that the majority of the parts are nuts and bolts.
Purchasing these materials in bulk can be
significantly less costly than buying per piece. Note
that mcmaster.com and mscdirect.com sell nuts and
bolts, and these components could easily be added
to a pulley, rack and pinion or leadscrew order.
Another option can be farm supply stores. These
frequently sell hardware in bulk or by weight, so
mixing and matching different lengths or diameters
does not unduly increase the price per piece.
The prototypes use round head zinc plated screws
since they are locally available. The screws can be
any type of head, though washers will be used with
many of the screws, so flat heads will not be the
best choice in all locations.
It would be possible to buy only inch and 1-1/4
inch #8 screws, and to cut off the tails when
needed. In most applications the extra length would
only be a snag or appearance issue.
Aluminum Note
The total of 1 inch aluminum angle required for the
Leadscrew X and Y version is over 36 inches. A
section of the 3/4 inch aluminum angle can be used
as a Z cross tie so a 36 inch length of 1 inch
aluminum angle will be enough for the machine.
There will probably be more than enough 3/4 inch
angle since it is usually sold in 24 or 36 inch
lengths, and only around 20 inches are needed.
There is a little over 36 inches of flat bar required
for all of the machines, but the stock is frequently
sold in 36 inch lengths. A leg can be cut off of
some remaining 3/4 inch angle to make up the
difference. This odd piece could be used on the
router mount.
Materials 122
The fifth list is of the pulleys, belts and bearings

required for each version. Its introduction gives
more details.
Leadscrews are not in these lists because there are
so many options. As mentioned, speed will cost; the
comparison chart shown previously lists the
performance and approximate cost of some of the
choices. The prices vary considerably between

suppliers; it is worth shopping around.
Again the prototypes worked well with 3/8 inch
two start for the Y and Z axes, and inch
diameter on the X axis. The total price difference
between multi-start and standard 1/2 inch Acme is
large, since two screws are required.
Materials 123
T he narrow columns on the left are for quantities or notes such as H ave or Buy etc. T he dimensions in these lists are rounded to make purchasing
easier. T hey are not the final dimensions, and these lists should not be used as cut-sheets.
LIST 1 X Axis:
Parts on X T able
Used For
Count
T otal
Plywood, in.
T able bed and rack boards
See Images Page 120
MD F, 3/4 in. T ee-Slot
T able bed
60 x 33-7/8
2 x 6 Fram ing Lumber, Actual 1.5" x 5.5"
R ail supports
T able sides
Legs
T able ends
2@ 60 in. rail supports

2@ 57 in. table sides
4@ ~43 in. legs
2@ 33-7/8 in. table ends
1@ 10ft.
1@ 10ft.
2@ 8ft.
68 in.
2 x 4 Fram ing Lumber, Actual 1.5" x 3.5"
T able bed joists
3@ 30-7/8
1@ 8 ft.
3/4 in. ID G as Pipe, Actual 1.03 in. O D
R ails
2@ 60 in.
1 @ 10 ft.
~30
D rywall Screws 1-5/8
T ie deck to frame
~30
Attach 2 x 6 stock together
56
56
3/8-16 T hreaded Rod
T ie pipe to supports
8 @ 3-1/2 in. each
28 in.
3/8-16 Nuts
8@ 3 each
24
3/8 ID washers
8@ 2 each
16
1-1/8 O D W ashers
8@ 2 each
16
W ood G lue
G lue all wooden parts
~Small bottle
Loctite T hread Locker, N on-H ardening
Secure screw threads
~ Small tube
X Axis: X R ack Version

Plywood, in.
R ack supports
2@ 48 x 4-3/4
See Images
Lumber 2 x 2, Actual 1.5" x 1.5"
R ack support spacing
2@ 48
1@ 8 ft.
R acks
Steel 20 P ressure Angle

Spur G ear Rack
20 Pitch, 1/2" W idth & H eight
2@ 4 ft. Length
m cm aster.com
# 5174T 11
2@ 4 ft.
1 or 3/4 x 1/8 in. Al. Flat Bar
T ension Rack Board
6 @ 1.5 in.
9 in.
#10 -24 T hreaded Rod
T ension Rack Board
6 @ 2 in.
12 in.
#10-24 N uts
T ension R ack Board
#10 W ashers
T ension R ack Board
#8-32 x 1-1/4 Machine Screws
T ie rack to board
14
14
#8-32 Nuts
T ie rack to board
14
14
#8 W ashers
T ie rack to board
T ie rack board to block
14
14
28
T ie rack board to block
14
14
T ie rack block to beam
10
10
1 x 4 Lumber, Actual 0.75" x 3.5"
X leadscrew stepper support
1@ 37 in.
37 in.
1/4 or 1/8 in. H ardboard, Plastic etc.
X leadscrew stepper plate(s)
1 or 2 @ ~3.5 x 4.5
See Images
5/16-18 x 3 in. C arriage bolt
Idler axle
1@ 3 in.
5/16 N uts
Idler axle
5/16 W asher
Idler axle
1/4-20 x 3 in. C arriage Bolts
T ie stepper plate to 1 x 4
3 for single stepper

6 for dual steppers
3 or 6
1/4-20 N uts
1/4 in. ID W ashers

18 for dual steppers
9 or 18
#8-32 x 3/4 in. Machine Screws
T ie stepper to plate
4 single stepper
8 dual steppers
4 or 8
#8-32 N uts
4 single stepper
8 dual steppers
4 or 8
#8 W ashers
4 single stepper
8 dual steppers
12 bearing blocks
16 or 20
Plastic Kitchen C utting Board 3/8 in.
Bearing blocks
2@ 1-1/2 x 2
4@ 1-3/8 x 1-3/8
See Images
in. PVC Electrical C onduit C oupler
Idler for single long belt
T ie bearing blocks to legs
12
12
X Axis: X Leadscrew Version
T ie bearing blocks to legs
Materials 124

18 for dual steppers
9 or 18
LIST 2 Y Axis: Parts on Gantry
Used For
Count
Total
Plywood, in.
Gantry end plates
2@ 6 x 10-1/4
See Images
2 x 6 Framing Lumber, Actual 1.5" x 5.5"
Y Gantry beam
33-1/4 inches
34 in.
1 x 1 x 1/8 in. Aluminum Angle
X Bearing trucks
4@ 1-1/2
6 in.
1 x 1/8 in. Aluminum Flat Bar
X Bearing trucks 120 angle
4@ 3-1/8
12-1/2 in.
3/4 in. ID Gas Pipe, Actual 1.03 in.OD
Rails
2 @ 30-1/2
61 in.
3/8-16 Threaded Rod
Tie pipe to beam
6 @ 3-1/2 in. each
21 in.
3/8-16 Nuts
Tie pipe to beam
6@ 3 each
18
3/8 ID Washers
Tie pipe to beam
6@ 2 each
12
1/4-20 Threaded Rod
Tie aluminum gantry to ends
4 @ 1-1/2 in. each
6 in.
1/4-20 Nuts
1/4 in. Washers
1-1/8 OD Washers
Tie pipe to beam
6@ 2 each
12
5/16 x 2-1/2 Carriage Bolts
Tie X bearing to end plate
4@ 2 each
5/16 x 1 Bolts
Tie bearings to X trucks
4@ 2 each
5/16 Nuts
X Bearing trucks
4@ 11
44
5/16 Washers
X Bearing trucks
4@~6
24
Drywall Screws 1-5/8
Tie end plates to gantry
#8-32 x 1 in Screws
#8 Washers
Plywood, inch
X Rack stepper mount
3 x 7 in.
See Images
Metal Rod x 36 in.
X Pinion axle
1@ 36 in
Pinions for X Movement
Steel 20 Pressure Angle

mcmaster.com
Spur Gear 20 P, 20 Teeth, 1" # 5172T12
Pitch Dia, 1/2" Bore
#8-32 Set Screws
Tie pinion to axle
2@ 2 each
in. PVC Electrical Conduit Coupler
Idler for X rack and pinion
in. ID x 5/8 in. OD Washer
Space pulley from bearing
See note on page 126
--
5/16 x 1-1/2 Bolt
Idler Axle
5/16 Nuts
Idler Axle
Spacers X stepper plate
1
6
5/16 Washers
Idler Axle
~3
~3
1/4-20 x 2-1/2 Carriage Bolt
Tie X stepper plate to end
1/4-20 Nuts
1/4 Washers
# 8-32 x 1 Machine Screws
Tie stepper to plate
# 8-32 Nuts
# 8 Washers
Y Axis: X Rack Version
Materials 125
LIST 2 (Continued) Y Axis:

X Leadscrew Version
X Leadnut brackets
2@ 4.5 in.
9 in.
#8-32 x 1 Machine Screws
Tie leadnut bracket to end
2@ 2each
#8-32 Nuts
2@ 2each
#8 W ashers
2@ 2each
Rack for Y Movement

Spur Gear Rack 20 Pitch,
1/2" W idth & Height
2' Length
mcmaster.com
# 5174T1
Rack bracket
4@ 3/4in.
3 in.
#8 x 1-1/2 Sheet Metal Screw
Tie rack to gantry
#4 x 3/4 W ood Screw
Tie rack bracket to beam
#8-32 x 3/4 Machine Screw
Rack tension screw
Plastic Kitchen Cutting Board 3/8in.
Bearing block
1-1/2 x 2 x 3/8
See Images
in. PVC Electrical Conduit Coupler
Idler
5/16 x 1-1/2 Bolt
Idler axle
5/16 Nut
Idler axle
5/16 W ashers
Idler axle
~3
~3
# 8-32 x 1-1/4 Machine Screws
Tie Y bearing block to end
# 8-32 x 1 Machine Screws
Tie Y stepper to end plate
# 8-32 Nuts
Tie block and stepper to end 6
# 8 W ashers
Tie block and stepper to end 6
Y Rack Version
Y Leadscrew Version
Washer-Spacer Note:
The pinion axles and leadscrews can require washers to space the pulleys or clamps away from the bearings.
The spacers cannot have a large outside diameter or they will chafe on the seal or edge of the bearings.
Therefore, standard washers often will not work at this location, and finding inexpensive washers of the proper
size can be challenging.
Spacers can be made from standard spring or tooth type lock washers that are flattened; use a hammer to bend
the teeth, or pliers to twist the spring type washers. Either external or internal teeth lock washers will work.
Another option is to cut sections from inch copper plumbing pipe for the spacers on the inch rods.
Sections cut from 1/4 inch copper couplers can be used with the 3/8 inch axles. The copper spacers work well
when a distance that is more or less than a lock washers thickness is needed.
Materials 126
LIST 3 Z Axis: Parts on Carriage
Used For
Count
Total
Plywood in.
Sides, top, bottom, back
Y Bearing trucks
Z Cross ties
Z leadscrew bearing bracket
2@ 6 trucks
3@ 3-1/8 cross ties
1-1/2 leadscrew bearing
23 in.
1 x 1/8 in. Aluminum Flat Bar
Router mount vertical

Z Cross tie
Z Leadnut support
Braces
Tension rod brackets
2@ 5-1/4 vertical
3-1/8 cross tie
2-3/8 leadnut
6-1/2 braces
1 tension rod
24 in.
3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8 in. Aluminum Angle
Z Bearing trucks
2@ ~10
~20
in. ID Gas Pipe, Actual 0.85 in. OD
Z Rails
2@ ~18
~36 in.
5/16-18 x 1 Bolts
Y and Z Bearing trucks
4 trucks @ 4 each
16
5/16 Nuts
Y and Z Bearing trucks
4 trucks @ 8 each
32
1/4-20 Threaded Rod
Tie top to back

Tie bottom to back
2@ 3-3/4
2@ 2-1/4
12 in.
1/4-20 x 2-1/2 Carriage Bolts
Tie stepper plate to top
1/4-20 x 1-1/2 Bolts Full Thread
Router band clamp
1/4-20 Nuts
Back to top
Bottom to top
Stepper plate to top
Stepper plate adjust
Router band clamp
2
2
2
8
2
16
1/4 W ashers
Top to back
Bottom to back
Stepper plate to top
Stepper plate adjust
Router band clamp
2
2
2
8
2
16
#10-24 Threaded Rod
Y Tension rods
Z Tension rods
2@ 13 inches
2@ 7 inches
40 in.
#10-24 Nuts
Tension rods
10
10
#10 W ashers
Tension rods
10
10
Z and Y bearing truck ties
4@ 2
Tie stepper to mount

Router mount
Z Bearing block
4
4
2
2
12
#8-32 x 3/4 Machine Screws
Z Bearing block
#8-32 x Machine Screws
Cross ties to rails

Z Leadnut bar
Router mount
16
4
4
24
#8-32 Nuts
Z Leadnut bar
Router mount
Stepper to plate
Z Bearing block
4
8
4
2
8
4
30
Materials 127
See Images
#8 W ashers
Z Leadnut bar
Router mount
Stepper to mount
Z Bearing block
Screws on carriage sides
2
8
4
2
8
6
12
42
Tie Z leadnut to bar
#6-32 Nuts
#6 W ashers
Plastic Kitchen Cutting Board 3/8 in.
Z Bearing block
1-1/2 x 1-3/8
Tie sides to back and top
Tie braces to top plate
Pipe Hanger Strap 16 Gauge x 3/4 in.
Router mount
1@ > 24 in. hanger strap
Pinion for Y Movement

Attached to Carriage Top

Spur Gr. 20 Pitch, 15 Teeth,
.75" Pitch Dia, 3/8" Bore
mcmaster.com
# 5172T11
#8-32 Set Screws
Tie pinion to axle
3/8 x 3-3/4 Inch Rod
Pinion axle, cut from bolt
3/8-16 Nuts
Bearing block spacers
3/8 in. ID x in. OD W ashers
Space pulley from bearing
See note on page 126
--
Plastic Kitchen Cutting Board 3/8 in.
Bearing block
2-1/2 x 1-3/8 x 3/8
See Image
5/16 x 2 Carriage Bolts
Bearing block support
5/16 x 1-1/2 Bolt
Idler axle
5/16 Nuts
Idler axle, bearing block
5/16 W ashers
Idler axle, bearing spacers
~10
~10
Tie Y stepper to top plate
#8-32 Nuts
#8 W ashers
#6-32 X 1 Machine Screw
#6-32 Nut
in PVC Electrical Conduit Coupler
Y Rack and pinion idler

attaches to top of carriage
Tie leadnut block to carriage
Tie leadnut to block
#8-32 Nuts
Tie leadnut to block & side
#8-32 W ashers
Tie leadnut to block & side
See Image
Z Axis: Y Rack Version
Z Axis: Y Leadscrew Version
Materials 128
This lists the materials by the version of machine. The versions are in the columns.
Quantities in the far right X Dual Stepper column are added to the Leadscrew X column.
LIST 4 Parts By Machine
Rack X
Rack Y
Rack X
Leadscrew Y
Leadscrew X
Leadscrew Y
X Dual
Stepper
s
2x6
3@ 10', 2@ 8'
3@ 10', 2@ 8'
3@ 10', 2@ 8'
2x4
8'
8'
8'
2x2
8'
8'
--
1x4
--
--
37"
Plywood in.
24" x 24", 10" x 48"
24" x 24", 10" x 48"
24" x 24"
MDF Tee Slot, 3/4 in.
60 x 33-7/8
60 x 33-7/8
60 x 33-7/8
3/4 in ID Gas Pipe
2@ 5', 2@ 3'
2@ 5', 2@ 3'
2@ 5', 2@ 3'
in. ID Gas Pipe
~36"
~36"
~36"
1 x 1 x 1/8 Aluminum Angle
32"
29"
38"
1 x 1/8 Aluminum Flat Bar
45.5"
45.5"
36.5"
3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8 Aluminum Angle
~21"
~21"
~21"
x 36 in. Solid Metal Rod
--
3/8 x 3-5/8 Rod (Cut from Bolt)
--
--
3/8-16 Threaded Rod
49"
49"
49"
3/8-16 Nuts
46
42
42
3/8 ID W ashers
28
28
28
1-1/8 OD W ashers
28
28
28
5/16-18 x 3 Carriage Bolt
--
--
1 w / One Belt
5/16-18 x 2 Carriage Bolts
--
--
5/16-18 x 1-1/2 Inch Bolts
--
5/16-18 x 1 Bolts
24
24
24
5/16-18 Nuts
86
84
79
5/16 W ashers
37
30
25
1/4-20 Threaded Rod
12"(+6" Al. Gantry)
12" (+6")
12"(+6")
1/4-20 x 3 Carriage Bolts
--
--
1/4-20 x 1-1/2 Bolts Full Thread
1/4-20 Nuts
18 (+4 Al. Gantry)
18 (+4)
25 (+4)
+9
1/4 W ashers
22 (+4)
22 (+4)
25 (+4)
+9
#10 Threaded Rod
52"
52"
40"
#10 Nuts
16
16
10
#10 W ashers
16
16
10
22
26
20 (+4)
22 (+4)
16 (+4)
24
24
24
#8-32 Nuts
52
58
38
+4
#8 W ashers
78 (+4)
84 (+4)
62 (+4)
+4
Materials 129
+3
+4
LIST 4 (Continued)
Parts By Machine
Rack X
Rack Y
Rack X
Leadscrew Y
Leadscrew X
Leadscrew Y
--
--
#6-32 Nuts
#6 Washers
2-1/2 Drywall Screws
66
66
56
61
61
59
#8 x 1-1/2 Sheet Metal Screw
--
--
#4 x 3/4 Wood Screw
--
--
in PVC Electrical Conduit

Coupler
1 + 1 w/ Long Belt
Pipe Hanger Strap > 24 x 3/4 in.
x 5/8 Washer, See note p. 126
--
3/8 x Washers See note p. 126
--
--
Plastic Kitchen Cutting Board 3/8" Y & Z Blocks
Y & Z Blocks
X, Y & Z Blocks
Plastic Kitchen Cutting Board 1/4" ~ Z Stepper Plate
~ Z Stepper Plate
X & ~ Z Stepper
Plate
1/8 in. Thick Plastic or Hardboard
~ Z Stepper Plate
~ Z Stepper Plate
~ Z Stepper Plate,
X Stepper Plate for
1Stepper w/ 2 Belts
1in. Pitch Diameter Pinions
--
3/4 in Pitch Diameter Pinion
--
--
#8-32 Set Screws for Pinions
--
Racks
4' + 4' +2'

or 4' + 6'
4' + 4'
--
X Leadscrews
--
--
2@ " x ~64" u
Y Leadscrew
--
3/8" x 36"+ u
3/8" x 36"+ u
Z Leadscrew
3/8" x 12"+ u
3/8" x 12"+ u
3/8" x 12"+ u
Wood Glue
Epoxy Glue
Loctite T hread-Locker N on Hardening
608 22 x 8 mm Bearings
32
32
30, 32 w/ Long Belt
R6 7/8 x 3/8 Bearings
4u
4u
4u
R8 1-1/8 x Bearings
3u
3u
8u
Dual
Steppers
+1 Plate
u Leadscrews and Bearings. These sizes will vary and the leadscrews must match the bearings. The diameters
listed are the ones preferred on the prototypes, but other sizes will work. The lengths will also vary, the ones
given are minimums and they will not work on all machines. Order extra, or measure the actual machine before
ordering.
Materials 130
Pulleys, Belts, Bearings, Racks and Pinions

All pulleys are size XL for 3/8 inch wide belts, and are
double flanged with hub, unless noted otherwise.
Pulleys can be solid steel, aluminum, or plastic with an
aluminum insert. Bores of solid aluminum pulleys can be
drilled to a slightly larger size.
Belts can be of any material and tension member, though
fiberglass can fail sooner with heavy use. Some suppliers
only sell fiberglass; it has been used here with no problems.
However, when severely overloaded the fiberglass threads
have torn.
The bearings are sized to match the leadscrews. The less
expensive bearings have worked as well as more costly
ones; the loads on these machines are small. These too can
often be found at farm supply stores, but the prices tend to
be higher since the bearings are rated for farm implements.
LIST 5
Pulley on Stepper
The racks and pinions are all steel 20 Pressure Angle Spur
Gear with 20 Pitch. Racks and pinions with 14.5 Pressure
Angle will work too with these light loads. The racks on the
prototypes are from mcmaster.com.
The sizes and part numbers follow:
X Pinions. Two required. Will need to tap for set screws.
20 Teeth, 1" Pitch Dia, 1/2" Bore
mcmaster.com # 5172T12
Y Pinion. One required. Will need to tap for set screws.
15 Teeth, .75" Pitch Dia, 3/8" Bore
X Racks. Two required.
1/2" Width & Height 4 ft. Length
Y Rack. One required.
1/2" Width & Height 2ft. Length
Driven Pulley
Belts
Bearings
X Axis:
Parts on X Table
X Leadscrews
1 Long Belt, 1 Stepper
1@ 15 teeth
1/4 inch bore
2@ 15 teeth
bore to match leadscrews
1@ 414 teeth
82.8 inches
8 to match leadscrews
1-1/8 x on prototype
2 @ 608 bearings for idler
X Leadscrews
2 Belts, 1 Stepper
2 @ 15 teeth
1/4 inch bore
One pulley should be hubless. See pg. 91
2@ 15 teeth
2@ 195 teeth
39 inches
X Leadscrews
2 Belts, 2 Steppers
2 @ 15 teeth
1/4 inch bore
2@ 15 teeth
2@ 55 teeth
11 inches
Rack and Pinion
Stepper is on Y gantry
Y Axis:
Parts on Y Gantry
X Rack and Pinion
1@ 12 teeth
1/4 inch bore
1 @ 36 teeth
inch bore for X pinion axle
can be without flanges
1@ 75 teeth
15 inches
3 @ 1-1/8 x for pinion axle

12@ 608 for X Trucks
Y Leadscrew
1@ 15 teeth
1/4 inch bore
1 @ 15 teeth
bore to match leadscrew
1 @ 55 teeth
11 inches
2 to match Y leadscrew
7/8 x 3/8 used on prototype
Y Rack and Pinion
Stepper is on Z Carriage
Z Axis:
Parts on Z Carriage
Y Rack and Pinion
1@ 12 teeth
1/4 inch bore
1@ 36 teeth
3/8 bore for Y pinion
1 @ 50 teeth
10 inches
2 @ 7/8 x 3/8 Y pinion axle

Z Leadscrew
This Z row applies to
all machines.
1@ 12 teeth
1/4 inch bore
1 @ 12 teeth -bore to match

Z leadscrew, Small bore can
be drilled to fit larger
leadscrew.
1 @ 30 teeth
6 inches
2 to match Z leadscrew
7/8 x 3/8 used on prototype
8 @ 608 for Y Trucks
8 @ 608 for Z Trucks
Materials 131
Aluminum Version Notes

The aluminum that is used in place of the plywood
and lumber for the metal gantry and carriage
follows. It was purchased from onlinemetals.com
and was around $200. It is much less expensive to
purchase lengths to the nearest foot rather than to
have it cut to specified lengths.
6061-T6 ALUMINUM RECTANGLE BAR
1/2 X 5" ALUM FLAT 6061-T6, One Ft. Length
For carriage back.
6061-T6 STRUCTURAL (AM STD) CHANNEL
6 X .437 X 2.157 ALUM CHAN 6061-T6
Three Ft. Length, For gantry beam.
3/8 X 3" ALUM FLAT 6061-T6, Three Ft. Length
For sides of carriage, X rack stepper mount, Z
stepper mount, Y leadscrew support block.
3/8 X 6" ALUM FLAT 6061-T6, Three Ft. Length
For ends of gantry, and top and bottom carriage
plates.
Angled shims are also required to offset the angle

of the channels legs. The six shims can be made of
wood, plastic or metal.
The angle is 9.5 and the shims are 3/4 inch
square.
A 3/8 inch hole is drilled in the middle of each shim
for the stud.
A piece of 1/4 x 3/4 inch wood can be ripped at a
9 to 10 angle to serve as the stock for the shims.
Another option is
to cut and drill a
3/4 x 1/8 inch
piece of aluminum
angle as shown.
The radius of the
Shim made from aluminum angle.
channels legs will
interfere with the shim. The shims edges can be
filed or sanded as required to fit the radius.
The gantry rack is installed similarly to the wooden
version. However, the hole for the small wood
screw in the rack brackets is unnecessary in the
aluminum channel beam version. This short screw
is not used.
The rails on the channel are spaced 1 inch rather

than 7/8 inch from the back edge of the beam.
This permits the
carriage to clear the
front legs of the
channel. The
channels legs are
longer than the width
of the 2 x 6.
The pipes are
attached to the
channel the same way
as is done with the
wooden 2 x 6.
However, the
threaded 3/8-16 studs
are 2-1/4 inches long.
The hole for the small screw is

unnecessary.
The 3/16 inch hole near the brackets end is drilled

when the rack is installed, just as is done with the
wood version.
It may be necessary to move the pipe rail to drill,
tap and install the racks machine screws.
Therefore, do not permanently attach the pipe to
the aluminum beam until after the rack is installed.
Pipe attached to channel with
stud, nuts, washers and shim.
The carriage height measure can still be taken with

the top pipe slightly loose, since the aluminum will
not compress the way the wood will.
Aluminum Notes 132
It may be necessary to use two washers underneath

the pipe for the rack brackets to fit under the pipe.
The tops of the rack brackets can be filed down if
needed.
The rack brackets will be
installed with the rack;
they do not need to be
installed beforehand as
they are with the wooden
version.
Make sure the brackets fit
under the pipe before
tightening the pipe into
place.
bottom in the threaded hole; this helps to guarantee

a tight fit. A nut with washer is then put on each
stud to tighten the end plates into position. The
initial attachment is done with the #8 machine
screws.
The attachment holes in the end plates can be
drilled oversized to allow for adjustment between
the end plates and the channel beam.
The rack is attached to the

aluminum beam with
machine screws. The holes
in the beam are tapped.
The long screws that attach the rack to the beam

are #8-32 x 1-1/4. The beam is tapped for them,
the pilot hole size is 9/64 inch.
The 5/16 inch holes for the X bearing carriage

bolts will have to be partially enlarged for the
necks of the carriage bolts, or the necks can be
ground off of the carriage bolts.
The carriage side plates are made of 3/8 x 3 inch
aluminum flat bar.
The aluminum end plates are used as templates to

mark the position of the attaching screws and studs
on the gantry beam. The end plates are made of 3/8
x 6 inch flat bar.
Ends are attached to channel with 1/4-20 studs

and #8 machine screws with washers.
Holes are drilled and threaded in the ends of the

gantry channel that align with the holes in the end
plate. One pair of holes is drilled to 13/64 inch and
tapped for 1/4-20 x 1-1/2 inch studs. The other
pair is drilled to 9/64 inch and tapped for #8-32 x
1 inch screws.
It is easier to use studs than bolts at this location
because the studs can be tightened until they
Aluminum Notes 133
The side plate will be approximately

inch longer; one of the top pilot holes in
the back edge is not needed.
The sides do not need the lower top hole that is at

1-1/2 inches. Three #8-32 x 1 inch screws are
enough to attach the sides to the back plate. Holes
are drilled at 9/64 inch and tapped for #8-32 for
the attachment of the sides to the back.
The back plate is made of x 5 inch aluminum
flat bar.
Using the Templates
The carriage will be

approximately inch taller
with the 6 inch aluminum
channel than it would be with
the 5-1/2 inch board.
The aluminum version does not
need the braces that attach the
top to the sides.
Carriage bolts can also be used, but either the

necks of the carriage bolts will have to be ground
down, or the holes in the top plate will have to be
partially enlarged to accept the necks. The metal
will not compress around the carriage bolts necks
the way wood will.
The templates should be checked for correct sizing.

The printing process can alter the image size. The
mis-sizing is usually so minor that the differences
can be offset by marking on another side of the
lines.
Braces are not
needed.
The holes for the carriage bolts in the aluminum

top plate for rack and pinion version can be tapped,
and studs can be used in place of the carriage bolts.
This may be easier than drilling the recesses for the
carriage bolts heads.
The holes in the stock can also be enlarged to

compensate for offsets.
Paper rather than cardstock templates have been
easier to use since the center punch leaves a
sharper indentation through the paper.
The templates can be cut-out and taped or glued to
the top of the stock.
Two sided tape works well; glue tends to clog
sandpaper.
Cutting or folding two edges of the template so one
corner can be aligned with a true corner of the
stock works well.
Mark all of the holes with a center punch through
the template before cutting or drilling. Otherwise,
if the template is torn during drilling, the
dimensions will be lost.
The two 5/16 inch carriage bolt holes can be tapped

rather than recessed, and studs replace the carriage
bolts.
The 1/4 inch carriage bolts that tie the Z stepper

plate to the top plate on both the rack and
leadscrew versions of the machine can be replaced
with 1/4-20 studs; the holes in the top plate will
have to be drilled to 13/64 inch and tapped to
accept them.
Drill the smaller holes first. The hole saw and

Forstner bits will probably grab and tear the
templates.
The 1-1/2 inch holes in the stepper mounts can be
larger as long as there is enough stock left for the
steppers to seat well against the mounts.
Referring back to the images in the gantry end
plate sections can make the Y end plate templates
easier to use.
Aluminum Notes 134
List of Templates
Left Gantry End Plate for 2x6 Wood Gantry Beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
Right Gantry End Plate for 2x6 Wood Gantry Beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
Left Gantry End Plate for Aluminum Channel Gantry Beam . . . . . . . 138
Right Gantry End Plate for Aluminum Channel Gantry Beam . . . . . . 139
Carriage Top Plate for Rack and Pinion Y Gantry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
Gantry Stepper Mount for X Rack and Pinion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
Carriage Top Plate for Y Gantry Leadscrew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
Z Stepper Mount . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
Y Leadnut Block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
Z Bottom Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
Stepper Plate, X Dual Steppers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
Stepper Plate, X Two Short Belts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146
Stepper Plate, X One Long Belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
Templates 135
Templates 141
Templates 142
Templates 143
Templates 144
Templates 145
Templates 146
Templates 147
CNC Router Plans

Plans for a 25 x 25 Inch Leadscrew Drive
CNC Router Table
by
David Steele
NOTICE: That which makes CNC machines useful also makes them
dangerous; they move without direct human control.
A CNC table MUST have an easily accessible Emergency Stop button. The
table must be in a safe location where it is inaccessible to children and
unauthorized users; these are not toys, even a small machine can inflict
serious injury. You, the user of these plans, assume all liability and
responsibility for the construction process, and the product you create.
Do not use the plans if these conditions of use are unacceptable to you.
David Steele is the copyright owner of these plans. In consideration for
payment, David Steele grants a licence to use the plans for the purpose of
building a machine for personal use.
Table of Contents
1 Introduction and Materials

11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
110
111
112
113
114
115
116
117
118
119
120
121
122
Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Machine Axes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
X Axis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Y Gantry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Z Carriage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Tools and Materials Overview . . . . . . . 7
Tool List, Required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Sizes of Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Basic Machine, Cut 1x4 . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Table Bed Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Machine and Table Bed, Cut 2x4 . . . . 14
Stand, Cut 1x4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Wood Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Hardware Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Cut Pipe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Kitchen Cutting Board . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Leadscrews and Leadnuts . . . . . . . . . . 18
Upgrading . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Suppliers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Leadscrew Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
2 Stand and Bed

21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
Router Stand Overview . . . . . . . . . . . .

Stand Construction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Table Bed Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Table Bed Frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Wood Note . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Table Bed 1x4 Slats . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Table Bed Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Attach Bed to Stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
22
22
26
27
27
28
29
29
3 X Axis Frame and Rails

31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
X Axis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
X Axis Pipe Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
X Threaded Studs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Studs in Pipes . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rail Supports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1x4 Cross Members . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Bearing Recesses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stepper and Idler Holes . . . . . . . . . . . .
31
31
32
32
33
34
34
35
36
310
311
312
313
1x4 for Closed Front Machine . . . . . .

1x4s for Open Front Machine . . . . . . .
Machine Legs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
X Axis Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
37
37
38
38
4 Y Gantry
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
410
411
412
413
414
415
416
417
418
419
420
Y Gantry Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Y Pipe Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Y Threaded Studs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Studs in Pipes . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Gantry Beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Y Rails on 2x6 Beam . . . . . . . .
End Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Right (Stepper) End Plate . . . . . . . . . .
Left End Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Attach End Plates to Gantry . . . . . . . .
X Bearings Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Wooden Outriggers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fabrication of Outrigger Blocks . . . . .
Metal Outriggers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Carriage Bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Bottom Bearings . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Gantry on X Axis . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Leadnut Carriage Bolts . . . . . .
Gantry Review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Note for Solid Sheet Table Bed . . . . .
41
41
41
42
42
42
43
44
46
47
47
48
49
50
50
51
52
53
53
54
5 X Leadscrews
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
510
511
512
513
514
515
516
517
X Leadscrew Components Overview . .

X Bearing Flanges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
X Leadnuts Overview . . . . . . . . . . . .
Leadnut Options . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Hole Alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Holes in Leadnut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Bracket Trim Note . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Aluminum Brackets . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Attach Leadnuts to Brackets . . . . . . . .
Install Leadscrew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Mark and Drill Bracket . . . . . . . . . . . .
Align Leadscrew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Pulleys and Clamps . . . . . . . . .
X Belt Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Idler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Move Gantry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
55
55
56
56
57
57
58
58
59
59
60
60
61
63
63
64
65
518
519
520
521
522
523
Install Belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tighten Stepper and Belt . . . . . . . . . .
Square Gantry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Adjust Gantry Front Bearings . . . . . . .
Bearing Tensioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
65
66
66
66
67
67
6 Z Carriage Body
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
610
611
612
613
Z Carriage Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Y Bearing Trucks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Measure Distance Between Trucks . . .
Y Leadnut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Side Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Back Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Top Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Bottom Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Bottom Truck . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Top Truck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Y Tension Rods . . . . . . . . . . . .
Z Bearing Flange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
68
68
69
69
70
71
71
73
74
75
76
77
78
7 Y Leadscrew
71
72
73
74
75
Leadscrew to Stepper Coupler . . . . . .

Y Bearing Flange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Y Leadnut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Y Leadscrew . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Y Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
78
79
79
79
80
8 Z Axis
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
Install Z Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Z Bearing Trucks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Attach Z Trucks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Z Leadscrew Overview . . . . . . . . . . . .
Leadnut and Bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Z Leadscrew Assembly . . . . . .
Spindle Plate and Rails Overview . . . .
82
83
83
84
84
85
86
88
89
810
811
812
813
814
815
816
817
818
819
Spindle Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Porter Cable 7301 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Spindle Plate Stud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Band Clamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Z Pipe Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Attach Pipes to Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cross Tie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Install Z Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tension Rods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Align Z Rails and Trucks . . . . . . . . . .
Attach Bracket, Align Flanges . . . . . .
Tighten Z Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
86
87
87
88
89
89
90
91
91
92
93
93
9 Software Settings
91
92
93
94
95
96
97
98
99
910
911
912
Software Settings, Introduction . . . . . . 95

Steps per Revolution, Stepper . . . . . . . 95
Micro-Stepping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
Leadscrews . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Starts, and Turns per Inch . . . . . . . . . 96
Determining Steps per Unit . . . . . . . . . 96
Resolution . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Axis Names . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
Switch X and Y Axis Names . . . . . . . 97
Speed (Velocity) and Acceleration . . . . 98
Tuning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
Wrap Up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
10 Templates
X 1x4 Bearing Recesses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
X 1x4 Stepper Mount . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
X 1x4 Front Horizontal and Legs . . . . . . . .
Y End Plate Right . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Y End Plate Left . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Z Side Plate Left . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Z Side Plate Right . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Z Top Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Z Bottom Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Bearing Flanges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
101
102
103
104
105
106
107
108
109
110
The plans also include directions for optional 1/8 x

1 inch aluminum flat bar bearing support
components, but the wooden ones are simple and
serve well.
11 Overview
This machine is designed to be simple and
inexpensive. It uses materials efficiently, and can
use a variety of leadscrews.
The stepper supports and a number of the bearing

supports are incorporated directly into the
structural components of the machine. This gives
a simpler system that is easier to align.
The X and Y axes use

standard length 3 foot
leadscrews. There is
no waste, and they
give a 25 x 25 inch
cutting area.
The basic machine does not have a base and can sit
directly on top of the stock.
The leadscrews can

range from hardware
store threaded rods,
O pen front machine on
to precision Acme
table bed and stand.
r ods wit h a ntibacklash leadnuts.
Therefore, it is possible to initially build a low cost
machine, and to later upgrade.
Plans for a bed and

stand that are
made of 1x4 and
2x4 wood are
included in this
manual.
Basic machine without the

table bed and stand.
The bed permits

the front of the machine to
be open, which allows
easier access to the router.
Directions for the this
open front version are
included.
All of the wooden components are cross-cut from

standard off the shelf sizes of wood. The pieces are
then drilled and assembled.
The cuts can be made with a chop, miter or arm
saw. A table saw is neither necessary nor missed
for the construction of this machine.
The stand is made of 1x4

and permits the machine
to be swung down for
more compact storage.
There is no plywood or MDF in the machine. The

only sheet stock is plastic kitchen cutting board,
which is readily available, inexpensive, and it is
easily cut and drilled.
Machine tilted for storage.
12 Machine Axes
The machine has three axes, X, Y and Z. The axes
are named in a manner that is logical
for construction.
Bearing flanges made of plastic cutting board .
The letter designations

can be different, and
it may be preferred to
switch the axis names
when setting up the
software.
The rails are all made of 1/2 inch inside diameter

gas pipe. The pipes are supported, but no thread
tapping is required for their installation. The
mounting system is solid, and straightforward.
The rail bearing systems use size 608 bearings,
which are also sold as skate bearings. Their
supports do not have to be bent or tapped.
This is addressed in
Axis Names, section 9-8.
5
O rientation of axes.
The Z axis is a carriage that

supports the routerspindle, which
moves up and down.
A 1x4 spans the front of the closed front version.

This closed front option does not require the table
bed for structural support.
Z and Y axes.
The Y axis is a
gantry beam that
carries the Z carriage; Y movement is from side
to side on the machine.
C losed front machine.
The X axis is the frame that carries the gantry from

end to end on the machine.
Two 1x4 legs replace the horizontal 1x4 in the

open front version. This option requires the table
bed to hold the machine square.
13 X Axis
The X axis consists of a
frame which is made of
2x4 and 1x4 wood. The
woods actual
dimensions are 1-1/2 x
3-1/2 inches and 3/4 x
3-1/2 inches.
The closed front machine

can be attached to a table
bed or it can stand
alone. The machine
can be removed from
the table bed to carve
patterns in any sized
stock including floors.
X axis is made of 1x4 ends

and 2x4 rail supports.
The open front version

allows easier access to
the table bed and
router-spindle. This is
handy for setting up
jobs and changing
router bits.
X stepper on back 1x4.
The 1x4s support the X stepper and leadscrews.

The 2x4s support the pipe-rails.
C losed front machine

standing alone.
C losed front machine on

table bed.
The different 1x4 parts

for the two versions,
when not glued into
place, can be switched O pen front m achine on table
bed.
fairly easily. Therefore,
options can remain
open, should the need to cut very large stock arise
once the open front version is completed.
The X axis uses dual leadscrews that are driven by

a single stepper with a long belt.
This configuration permits a lean and sturdy
machine that uses a minimum of material to
produce a quality product.
These plans also
address a variation of
the X axis that has an
open front with a table
bed.
O pen front machine.
The open front machine is easier to use, and is the

version pictured throughout this manual.
O pen front with table bed.
The differences between the X axis of the open and

closed front versions are minor; the parts that are
different are darkened in the next drawings.
The Z spindle assembly is made of a section of 1x2

wood; 1x2's actual dimensions are 3/4 x 1-1/2
inches.
14 Y Gantry
The Y gantry is made of 2x6 and 1x6 wood. These
boards have actual dimensions of 1-1/2 x 5-1/2
inches and 3/4 x 5-1/2 inches.
This wood supports the Z pipe-rails and the routerspindle, which is held into place with a bolt and
band strap.
2x6 beam;1x6 end plates.
The 2x6 supports the Y pipe-rails, and the 1x6s are

the end plates that support the Y leadscrew and
stepper.
Z pipes
on 1x2.
G antry with rails, stepper and leadscrew.
The end plates also support the bearings that ride

the X rails.
The Y leadscrew is supported with a bearing at
each end.
The stepper does not carry any of the thrust loads.
This is better on the stepper and reduces backlash.
16 Tools and Materials Overview

The machine was designed to use stock sizes of
wood and metal, so a minimum of materials, tools
and work would be required for construction.
All wooden components are made from off the
shelf sizes of lumber that are found at home
centers. These boards sizes include 1x2, 1x4, 1x6,
2x4 and 2x6.
15 Z Carriage
The Z carriage is made of 1x4
wood that is cut to length and
drilled.
The carriage holds the Z
bearings that support the
router spindle assembly. The
carriage also holds the Y
bearings, which ride on the Y
gantry.
Z carriage with
router.
A version of the machine that used only 1x2 and

1x4 was built and tested, but it was not as sturdy
as desired. Therefore, the larger stock was used
where it helped to stiffen the machine.
Z carriage is
made of 1x4.
G antry made of 1x2 and 1x4 was too flexible.
There is no sheet stock, such as plywood, used.

Therefore, a table saw is unnecessary. This was
one of the primary design considerations.
Y trucks on top and
bottom plates.
Z bearing trucks
on side plates.
A basic power saw will help with the machines

construction, since it will speed work. Also, it tends
to give cleaner cuts than a hand saw.
The rails are all made of 1/2 inch inside diameter

black iron pipe. This is also called gas pipe; it is
painted black, not galvanized.
The pipes can usually be cut to length at the place
of purchase, but they can also be cut with the
hacksaw.
A chop, miter or arm saw will serve well. The

stand and part of the X bearings require a miter
cut; all other cuts are square cut. These angled cuts
can be made with a hand saw when a miter saw is
unavailable.
A vise helps to hold parts during cutting, but it is

not mandatory.
A hand held circular saw will also work, but these

tools can be hard to hold square.
The pipes as well as the other materials have holes

and/or recesses drilled into them.
The bearing flanges are made of kitchen cutting

board plastic. This material can be cut to size with
the power saw or a hacksaw. It cuts easily, but a
power saw may melt the edges. This is usually only
a cosmetic problem, which can be cleaned with a
knife, sandpaper, or a flame (lighter, candle, or
blow torch).
A drill press is the easiest to use.

However, most any power drill will work,
from an inexpensive corded unit, to a topend rechargeable or corded tool.
The recesses are most easily
drilled with Forstner bits, but
paddle (spade) bits work well
enough.
Inexpensive Forstner bits,
such as those sold by Harbor
Freight, will be fine.
This cutting board plastic can be replaced with

other materials, such as tempered hardboard,
quality plywood or aluminum. Unlike these other
materials, this plastic can be purchased in small
pieces from the housewares section of department
stores. This is the easiest and most economical
route, since only a few square inches are needed.
Forstner
Bit
Paddle
bit
A 1-1/2 inch hole saw will

speed construction; this can be an inexpensive
interchangeable ring-saw. The holes can be cut
from both sides of the boards, so a deeply bladed
saw is unnecessary.
Directions are given for using smaller Forstner or
paddle bits instead of a larger hole saw.
Threaded rods are used for a number of the

components, and they have to be cut to length. This
can be done with a hand hacksaw. The rods
diameters are 5/16 inch and #10 (~3/16 inch), so
they can be cut quickly by hand. A file is used to
clean the cut threads.
The twist drills can be a basic set that is sized in

1/64 inch, which includes bits from 1/16 to 1/2
inch.
The dimensions in these plans use these sizes rather
than number or decimal sizes, since 1/64 inch drill
bit sets are common in home shops.
Some of the rods are threaded into the wooden

components, but the holes in the wood do not have
to be tapped beforehand. There is no need for taps
and dies in this machine. This was another design
consideration.
Holes of 11/32 to 3/8 inch will be drilled in the gas

pipe, so these bit sizes need to be able to drill steel.
Aluminum angle that is 1/8 x 3/4 inch is used for

a few components. This metal is soft and can be
cut with the hacksaw. This is the only aluminum
used in the machine. Again, using the single
commonly found size of aluminum stock was by
design.
Brad point drill bits can speed the wood work,

since they can stay on center without a punch
mark, but they are not mandatory.
Parts are tied together with wood screws, round

head machine screws, and bolts with nuts.
square has an adjustable blade.

An inexpensive unit will work well enough, but it
does need 1/16 inch marks.
Drywall and decking screws work well for holding

the wooden components together.
These are driven with a Phillips screwdriver. A
cordless screwdriver or drill speeds this process,
but is not required.
C ombination S quare
The machine screws are all #8 and #10, and will be

either flat or Phillips depending on the supplier.
The nuts are usually 11/32 and 3/8 inch.
17 Tool list, Required

Hacksaw
Bolts and studs of 5/16 and 1/4 inch are used. The
nuts usually require 1/2 and 7/16 inch wrenches.
Wood saw
Drill
Open end wrenches

for the 11/32, 3/8
and 1/2 inch nuts
O pen end wrench
are necessary.
However, adjustable
wrenches, or even a pair of pliers will work. The
pliers are not recommended for this, but they will
do the job, though poorly.
Drill bits: 1/16 to 1/2 inch

Forstner or paddle bits: 5/8, 3/4, 7/8, 1, 1-1/8
(1-1/8 bit only for 1/2 inch leadscrews)
Screwdrivers: Phillips and flat
Socket wrench: 1/2 inch
Open wrenches: 11/32, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2 inch
Adjustable wrench: (for nuts on leadscrews)
Allen wrenches: (for pulleys, couplers, clamps)
These nuts are most easily driven with nut

drivers when access is open. A small
socket set with a screwdriver style handle
will serve well. A 1/2 inch socket is
required for the X rail attachment, since
the nuts on the 5/16 inch studs are in
recesses.
Allen wrenches will be required with the
pulleys, leadscrew couplers and collars.
Rat tail file or Dremel: (to clean slotted holes)

File
Measuring tape or rule
Center punch
Scribe or pencil
Square
N ut
driver
Tools that are helpful, but not required.
The plans were designed on a 1/16 and 1/8 inch

grid in an effort to keep the dimensions
manageable. The holes were also positioned on the
same line, when possible, to further facilitate
layout.
Power miter saw or arm saw

Power hacksaw
Power screwdriver
Drill press
1-1/2 inch hole saw
Brad point drill bits
Nut drivers
Power sander: disk, belt or orbital
Grinding wheel
Vise
The measuring tools can be those for carpenters

rather than machinists. A standard retractable
measuring tape and a combination square will
serve well.
The combo square is favored because dimensions
can easily be transferred and repeated, since the
9
18 Sizes of Materials
Wood
Named Size
USA
Actual*
Inch
Actual**
M illimeter
1x2
3/4 x 1-1/2
19 x 38
1x4
3/4 x 3-1/2
19 x 89
1x6
3/4 x 5-1/2
19 x 140
2x4
1-1/2 x 3-1/2
38 x 89
2x6
1-1/2 x 5-1/2
38 x 140
Aluminum
Angle
1/8 x 3/4
1/8 x 3/4
3.1 x 19
Aluminum
Flat Bar
(Optional)
1/8 x 1
1/8 x 1
3.3 x 25.6
Steel Pipe
1/2 ID
(Inside
D iameter)
0.6 ID
0.85 OD
~7/8 inch
15.3 ID
1/4
0.26
6.7
3/8 (Preferred) 0.38
9.7
#8
0.162
~11/64
4.1 ~4
#10
0.186
~3/16
4.7 ~5
(Black - Gas
Pipe)
Plastic Cutting
Board
Bolts &
Screws
21.6 OD
1/4
1/4
6.35 ~6
5/16
5/16
7.94 ~8
*Actual Inch is the size that the board is supposed to be. However, woods variation due to moisture etc. can
be as much as 1/4 inch, and 1/16 to 1/8 inch variation is common.
Metal will also vary, but not to this extreme.
**Actual Millimeter is the measurement taken from actual stock, the dimensions are rounded. These values
are not necessarily the metric dimension that the stock is called by the supplier.
10
19 Materials
The chart on the right is a
materials list of the home center
components for the basic machine
as shown below.
Home Center Parts: Basic Machine

Notes
Quantity
Material
21"
Wood
117"
14"
64"
32"
43"
12" or 15"
Aluminum
See 414 & 814
164" (10' + 5') Black Pipe
Basic Machine
A detailed list is on the following

page, and materials lists for the
bed and stand, and the non-home
center items follow.
Also included are images showing
the cut patterns, so the stock can
be used efficiently.
1. 5/16-18 C arriage Bolts:

A total of 13 are needed. All can be 3 inches.
T he four bolts for the X leadnuts can be 2-1/2
inches.
T he eight bolts for the aluminum outriggers can
be 2-1/2 inches.
T hese eight bolts for the wooden ou triggers
have to be 3 inches.
T he bolt for the X idler can be 2-1/2 inches with
a shortened coupler-idler.
2. 5/16" W ashers.
T he 5/16" x 9/16" w ashers can be made from
5/16" lock washers. Bend the ends so they are
flat. 3/8" lock washers can also be used.
3. Hose and C lam ps.

T he hose and clamps can be used as leadscrew
to stepper c ouplings, and as collar clamps.
T hese can be replaced with commercially made
couplers and clamps. T he commercial ones are
much easier to align, but cost more.
H ose is difficult to use with leadscrews that are
over 5/16 inch in diameter.
Angle 1/8 x 3/4"

Flat Bar 1/8 x 1" (Optional)
" ID See 116
28
12
Drywall Screws
Decking Screws
1-5/8"
2-1/2 to 3"
42"
48"
Threaded rod
#10
5/16-18
4+ See Note 1 Carriage Bolts

9+
20
2
Bolts
1
1
7
3
Notes (From Hom e Center Parts Lists)
Nominal (Named) Size

1x2
1x4
1x6
2x4
2x6
Machine
Screws
#10 #10 x 2-1/2"

#10 x 3"
#8-32 #8 x 3/4"
#8 x 1"
#8 x 1-1/2"
#8 x 1-3/4"
#8 x 2"
1
Tee Nut
2
Nuts
118
1
23 for Screws
10 for Rods
33
59
5/16" 5/16-18 x 1"

5/16-18 x 1-1/2"
1/4" 1/4-20 x 1"
1/4-20 x 1-1/2"
6
2
12
3
2
4 See Note 2
3
69
5/16-18 x 2-1/2"
5/16-18 x 3"
Washers
#10 Match 2-1/2" Screw

3/8"
5/16"
1/4"
#10
Note: The threads of the
threaded rods and the machine
screws may be different.
#8
5/16"
5/16" ID ~9/16" OD
1/4"
#10 Also Use with #8 Screws
1/4" ID 2@ 1-1/4"
3" See Note 3 Hose
To Match Hose
4 See Note 3 Hose Clamps
12 inches
Plumbing Strap 3/4" Wide Hanger Tape
1
3/4" CPVC Plumbing (Yellow)
Coupler
or " PVC Electrical (Grey)
1 Bottle
Yellow Glue
Wood Glue
1 Tube
Non Hardening Thread-Locker
Loctite
1 Pack
Epoxy Glue
See Sec. 1 17 Cutting Board
Plastic Kitchen Cutting Board
11
The following table shows where the materials are used. The parts are listed with the axis they are attached to, not
the axis with which they function.
Home Center Parts: Basic Machine Details
Notes Material
Wood
Aluminum
Nominal (Named)
Size
Quantity
Rounded Up
X Axis
Y Gantry
Z Carriage
4@ 3" Outriggers
1@ 8.75" Z Plate
1x2
21"
1x4
117"
2@ 38.25" or
1@ 38.25" &
2@ 11.25"
2@ 6.25" Top & Bot.

2@ ~9.25" Sides
2@ 4.75" Back
1x6
14"
2@ 7"
2x4
64"
2@ 32"
2x6
32"
1@ 32"
Angle
1/8 x 3/4"
43"
2@ 4.5" X Leadnut
2@ ~9.25" Y Trucks
2@ 6.25" Z Trucks
1@ ~2.75" Cross Tie
12" or 15"
4@ 2.75" Outrigger
1@ ~2.75" Cross Tie
2@ 32"
2@ 18"
Flat 1/8 x 1" (Optional)

Black Pipe
ID See Sec. 116
Drywall Screws
1-5/8"
28
4 Brng. Flanges 8 Tie 1x4s
16 Hold Carriage
Decking Screws
2-1/2 to 3"
12
8 Y End Plates
4 Z Top & Bot. Plates
Threaded Rod
#10
42"
2@ 1-7/8" Bot. Front

X Bearing Axles
2@ ~12" Y Tension
2@ ~7" Z Tension
5/16"
48"
6@ 4.25" Rails 6@ 3.25" Rail Ties
Carriage Bolts
Bolts & Screws

5/16-18
1/4-20
#10-32 or 24
#8-32
All #8 and #10
Machine Screws
are Round Head
Tee Nut
164" (10' + 5') 2@ 32"
1@ 2.5" Leadnut
5/16 x 2-1/2"
4+ See Note 1 1 Idler or 3"
4 X Leadnut Angle
8 Al. Outrigger or 3"
5/16 x 3"
9 See Note 1 1 Idler
8 Wood Outrigger
5/16 x 1"
20
4 Outrigger Axles
8 Y Trucks Axles
8 Z Trucks
5/16 x 1-1/2"
2 Bottom X Axles
1/4 x 1"
1 Router Mount
1/4 x 1-1/2"
1 Router Clamp
#10 x 2-1/2"
4 X Stepper
1 Y Stepper Mount
2 Z Rail Ties
#10 x 3"
3 Y Stepper Mount
#8 x 3/4"
4 X Leadnuts
2 Cross Tie
#8 x 1"
2 Z Leadnut
#8 x 1-1/2"
12
2 Y Bearing Flange
2 Z Bearing Flange
2 Y Bottom Truck
4 Z Trucks
2 Y Leadnut
#8 x 1-3/4"
1 Z Stepper Mount
2 Y Top Truck
#8 x 2"
2 Z Stepper Mount
1 Y Stepper Mount
#10
1 Match Screw -
12
Notes Material
Nominal Size
Nuts
3/8"
5/16"
1/4"
#10
Washers
Quantity
2
X Axis
Y Gantry
Z Carriage
2 Spacers X Bearing
16 Z Trucks
18 X Rails
24 X Bearing Bolts
1 Z Leadnut Bracket
2 Bottom Studs
3 X Idler
+8 Al Outrigger 8 (Optional) 12 X Leadnut Brackets
Al. Outriggers 16 Y Trucks
18 Y Rails
Total 118
110
1 Router Clamp
23 for Screws 12 X Stepper

10 for Rod
11 Y Stepper
4 Y Tension Rods
2 Bottom X Bearings 4 Z Tension Rods
#8
33
5/16"
59
12 Pipe Mounts 20 X Bearings

~2 Idler
12 X Leadnut Mount
12 Pipe Mounts
5/16" ID ~9/16" OD
2 Bearing Flange
4 X Leadnuts
2 Flange, 9 Stepper
4 Z &Y Lnut, 2 Tie
10 Z &Y Trucks
1 Leadnut Bracket
4 Note 2
4 X Wood Outriggers
1/4"
3 Router Mount
#10
Also Use with #8
Screws
69
12 X Stepper
4 X Leadnuts
4 Flanges
11 Y Stepper
2 Y Bearing Flange
2 Bottom X Bearings
2 Y Leadnut
8 Z&Y Tension
2 Z Bearing Flange
8 Z Stepper
4 Decking screws
8 Z&Y Trucks
2 Z Leadnut
1/4" ID
3"
1-1/4" Coupler
1-1/4" Coupler
Hose Clamps
To Match Hose
Plumbing Strap
3/4" Wide
12"
Router Mount
1 X Idler
Hose (See
p. 64)
Coupler
3/4" CPVC Plumbing

or PVC Electrical
Wood Glue
1
Small Bottle
Loctite Thread Locker Non Hardening
1 Tube
Epoxy Glue
1 Pack
Cutting Board
1 Small
Often Called Carpenters or Yellow Glue

Prefer Loctite Green Apply After Assembly
Plastic Kitchen Cutting Board 3/8"
See Section 117
110 Basic Machine, Cut 1x4

The 1x4 parts of the Basic Machine can be cut from 1x4x96 inch boards, as shown below.
For the open front machine, scrap from the Stand can be used for the one X front leg, and the second 1x4 shown
below will be unnecessary.
T he 1x4 parts for the basic machine cut from 1x4x96" boards. T he Z sides may be longer; measure the Y trucks first. See Section 63.
13
111 Table Bed Materials

The table bed is made of 1x4 and 2x4 boards; the lengths and parts are in the list below.
Table Bed
Notes
Material
Size
Total
Pieces
Wood
1x4
3@ 8' 9@ 32" Slats
2x4
200"
~17'
3@ 32.25"
2@ 32" Side
4@ 9.75" Legs
Drywall1-5/8"
Decking Screws
72
14 X 1x4s
58 Top
2-1/2"
to 3"
36
12 2x4 Frame
24 2x4 Legs
Bed with 2x4 legs.
The bed of the table is made of three 1x4x96

boards that are cut to 32 inches each.
O pen front machine on bed.
112 Machine and Table Bed, Cut 2x4

Three 2x4x96" boards will provide enough stock for the Machine and Table Bed when three 32 inch lengths
can be cut from one 8 ft. board.
This assumes that the boards are of good quality for their entire length, which may be unlikely.
Four 2x4 boards will allow the blemishes to be avoided.
(There are no 2x4s in the stand.)
T he 2x4 parts for the machine and table bed can be cut from three 8 ft. boards. See note about board length. Section 25.
14
113 Stand, Cut 1x4

The stand is made of 1x4 boards that are cut to length, and glued and screwed together.
Its parts list is on the right, and the cuts from four 1x4x96 boards are shown below.
Stand
Notes
Stand, and Machine with T able Bed on Stand.
Material
Size
Total
Wood
1x4
4@ 8'
Drywall Screws
1-e"
Wood Screws
" For Hinges

and Casters
Bolts
x 3"
Nuts
"
Washers
"
Hinges
~3"
Casters
2"
C ut layout for stand 1x4s S ee Section 22.
15
44
12 Hinges
16 Casters
114 Wood Notes

The minimum wood required for the entire open
front machine, including the base and stand
follows. The values are rounded up to the nearest
foot.
The range of elasticity within a species of wood is

almost as wide as the variability between species.
Therefore, a good southern yellow pine stud can be
as stiff as a piece of oak, not necessarily stronger,
but stiffer, since hardwoods tend to be strong but
flexible.
3@ 2x4x8'
8@ 1x4x8'
2' of 1x2
3' of 2x6
2' of 1x6
115 Hardware Notes

There are a total of 144 1-5/8 inch drywall screws
required for the machine, table and stand. Coarse
thread screws hold well in the soft wood.
Framing lumber will work well, but it is important

for the boards to be clear and straight. It may be
necessary to purchase an extra board or two, so
knots and blemishes can be cut around.
The total of 2-1/2 to 3 inch decking screws is 48.

These vary in length between stores.
Eight foot boards are shown in these plans because

they can fit in many cars when the passenger seat
is folded down.
This machine was designed to be small shop
friendly, no stationary tools or trucks required.
These screws are used to hold two 2x4s together.

Therefore, the tips of 3 inch screws may protrude
from the backs of the boards, and their ends will
have to be ground.
Other wood can be used.
Buying most of the hardware in bulk is

recommended, even when there will be extra, since
the per piece price is high.
The following information is based on

manufacturers documentation as well as tests done
in this shop.
Some of the online leadscrew suppliers also sell

hardware at prices that are below those of home
centers.
Solid wood is stiffer than plywood with the grain,

and more flexible across the grain.
Different types of plywood are similar in
stiffness, whether birch, poplar or pine core.
The number of plies increases stability, but not
necessarily the stiffness. Therefore, a well chosen
piece of pine sheathing ply can be as stiff as a
piece of poplar or birch core cabinet plywood.
MDF is not as stiff as plywood. It is dense and
stable, but not stiff.
16
116 Cut Pipe

The pipe rails on which the bearings ride are all
made of 1/2 inch ID (inside diameter) gas pipe. It
is also called black iron pipe. Its outside diameter
is around 7/8 inch and its actual inside diameter is
larger than the named 1/2 inch.
and ten foot length of pipe can be cut as shown

below. The threads are left on the pipes only to
reduce the number of cuts.
The 33 inch threaded sections can be placed on the
X axis; the threads can be on the X stepper end of
the machine. They will overhang the 1x4 end
board.
Be sure to take the extra length into account when
measuring the stud holes.
Note: The bottom pipe on the Y axis cannot be cut
long.
It is usually found in the plumbing section of home

centers and can be purchased in a variety of
lengths.
The home centers will often make a few cuts when
the pipe is purchased.
Four sections are 32 inches long; however, a five
Pipe cut long to allow for threaded ends.
117 Kitchen Cutting Board

The Bearing Flanges and Z Leadnut Bracket are made of
plastic kitchen cutting board. This material is easy to work,
and will not tear-out or split, unlike small pieces of wood.
The cutting boards are available in a variety of thicknesses;
1/4 inch will work well for the bearing flanges, but a 1/4 inch
plastic Z leadnut bracket will flex under heavier cutting loads.
A 3/8 inch thick cutting board will serve better when used for
the Z bracket and bearing flanges.
As shown on the right, one small cutting board will supply
enough material for all of the parts.
The bearings will protrude from the face of the flanges. This
is not a problem; the side loads are minimal, and the thrust
loads are carried by the back of the flange.
The bearings do not have to fit tightly in the flanges. The
bearings can be wrapped with tape to tighten the fit should the
recesses in the flanges be too large in diameter.
17
Parts in 3/8 inch plastic cutting board.
Note that all threaded rod and leadscrews on this

machine can be standard right hand thread. There
is no need for left hand thread. The machine will
not work when left hand and right hand thread are
combined on the dual leadscrew axis.
118 Bearings
The bearings that ride the rails are 608 bearings,
which are also sold as skate bearings. The outside
diameter is 22mm and the bore is 8mm.
These two dimensions are close enough to 7/8 and
5/16 inch that tools and bolts of these Imperial
dimensions can be used with these skate bearings.
The least expensive leadscrews are All Thread.

Rods of 5/16 and 3/8 inch diameter will give
reasonable accuracy at a low price.
Half inch All Thread has a rough surface, and is
not recommended for use as a leadscrew.
These bearings are often available at sports shops

in packets of 8 or 16 because they are used with
roller blades.
All Thread is not efficient because of its thread

profile and rough surface. This inefficiency wastes
the steppers power, so speeds and cutting forces
are lower.
The quality of these bearings spans a range of

ABEC ratings. The experience here has been that
any ABEC rating will suffice. However, 608
bearings with no ABEC rating may be too flimsy
and can fail with extended use.
Another disadvantage with All Thread is its high

thread count.
Standard 5/16 and 3/8 inch threaded rods have 18
and 16 threads per inch respectively.
This means the stepper has to rotate 18 (or 16)
times to move the axis one inch.
Bearings that are 7/8 x 5/16 inch will also work,

but they usually are higher priced than the more
common skate bearings.
The machine uses standard bearings for the
leadscrew supports. Thrust bearings are not used
because they tend to be harder to find and are more
expensive. The thrust loads on the bearings are low
enough that standard bearings will serve well.
Steppers deliver the most torque at slower speeds.

The top speed of steppers is usually around 1000
rpm, but higher torque can only be expected up to
around 500 rpm.
When the stepper is turning at 500 rpm with an 18
turn per inch leadscrew, the axis will only move at
500/18 = 28 inches per minute. This is slow for a
CNC machine; it will work, but jobs take a long
time to complete.
The popular leadscrew sizes are 5/16 inch, 3/8 inch

and 1/2 inch. The outside diameter of bearings
with these sized bores are usually 7/8 inch for the
smaller two sizes and 1-1/8 inch for the 1/2 inch
bore.
These sizes of bearings may be locally available
from automotive and farm supply stores, though
the prices can be high.
The bearings are available online from vxb.com
and skatebearings.com. These companies have
delivered good products at a fair price.
This slow speed can also cause the router bits to

burn or melt the stock that is being routed. This
can be addressed by slowing the router bits speed
with a simple speed control or with a variable
speed router, but again, the slowness of the job can
be annoying.
Acme rods thread profile is designed to carry
loads more efficiently, and precision Acme has a
smoother surface. These factors permit Acme rod
to move the axes more quickly than All Thread.
119 Leadscrews and Leadnuts

Also see Section 94
The leadscrews can range in quality from hardware
store threaded rod, All Thread, to precision Acme
rod. The price for a 36 inch leadscrew can range
from $3 to over $50.
Acme rod is available in a variety of thread counts

and materials. Since this CNC machine is not
18
designed to run all day everyday, the material

choice can usually be based on price.
Anti-backlash leadnuts will give accuracy closer to

0.001 inch, and are used with Acme leadscrews.
These leadnuts generally cost $15 to $30 each.
The fewer the turns per inch of the leadscrew, the

faster the axes can move.
Multi-start Acme screws with 2 turns per inch are
available. With a 2 turn per inch leadscrew and a
500 rpm stepper, the axis could supposedly move
at 500/2= 250 inches per minute.
This speed is unlikely to be achieved with this
machine. However, rapids approaching 200 ipm
are possible.
120 Upgrading
Some builders will want to build a better quality
machine from the onset. Others will want to get
something running as quickly and cheaply as
possible, with the intention of upgrading later when
time, budget and need warrant.
Another common turn-count of leadscrews is 5

turns per inch, which will give rapids in excess of
100 ipm.
The simplest low cost version uses 5/16 inch

threaded rods and tee nuts for the leadscrews and
leadnuts.
A 3/8 inch diameter 10 thread per inch, 2 start, 5

turn per inch leadscrew is sold by mcmaster.com,
and dumpstercnc.com sells couplers, clamps and
leadnuts for this size.
This size works well on all axes of this machine.
The leadscrews supporting bearings will be skate

bearings like the ones that ride the rails.
There are a total of 7 leadscrew bearings, so the
machines total of skate bearings will be 37. These
can be purchased in bulk for less than $1 each.
Half inch Acme leadscrews will also fit, but the

clearance is tight on the Y axis, and very tight on
the Z. One prototype uses 1/2 inch 2 turn per inch
Acme on the X axis with 3/8 inch 5 turn per inch
on the Y and Z axes. This configuration works
well, but a variety of options will serve just as well.
The X axis uses a pair of leadscrews, which of

course means that upgrades on this axis will be
twice the cost of upgrades on the Y axis.
It is possible to achieve significantly better cutting
speeds by upgrading only the Y axis. This is
especially true when the cuts are made with parallel
passes.
An advantage of larger diameter leadscrews is they

are more resistant to whipping. On this machine,
with the 25 x 25 inch cutting area, leadscrew
whipping is not a serious problem, so 3/8 Acme
can serve as well as 1/2 inch.
The upgraded and faster Y gantry axis would be

used to run each parallel pass. The slower X axis
would be used to move the gantry the small
increment at the end of each pass. Since the Y is
moving far more than the X, the slower X axis will
not significantly lower the speed of the run.
Again, shopping by price and availability of

matching parts will give a good machine.
Note that purchasing a 6 ft. leadscrew and cutting
it into two 3 foot pieces may save some money.
The upgraded Y axis can also improve

performance on runs that are not parallel passes.
The pattern to be cut would be placed on the table
so its longer dimension is in line with the Y gantry.
Again, since there is more motion in the faster Y
direction than in the X, the speed of the run will
increase.
The leadnuts also range in price and quality.

Hardware store tee nuts can be used with All
Thread. Their precision will be in the 0.003 to
0.007 inch range.
Tee nuts are more challenging to align than antibacklash leadnuts, but they can serve well, and the
price is low at around $1 each.
On most jobs the Z axis moves a shorter distance

19
than the other two axes. Therefore, this axis also

can use a slower and cheaper leadscrew without
greatly slowing the overall run.
A section of hose with a hose clamp can also be

used on the ends of the leadscrews instead of the
collar clamps or nuts. This can save the cost of a
set of collar clamps when multi-start Acme
leadscrews are used, and inexpensive multi-start
nuts are unavailable.
The X pulleys can be aluminum, or plastic with

aluminum inserts.
When buying with the intention of upgrading to
larger leadscrews, aluminum pulleys should be
purchased. Their bores can be drilled to the desired
larger size.
Nuts for most single start threaded rods are

inexpensive, and are easier to use than the hose and
clamp system.
It may be necessary to drill and tap setscrew holes

through the toothed section of the re-drilled pulley
since the walls of the drilled-out hub may be too
thin to support the original setscrews.
The rails can be replaced with better quality pipe

or rod. Drill rod can be used; since it is solid, it
will have to be tapped for the studs to be tied to it.
Commercially made linear bearings can be used in
place of the rails. The price of these bearings varies
considerably; but even the less expensive ones have
tolerances that surpass the black pipe rail system.
However, using them on a wooden machine is
unlikely to markedly improve precision since the
wood will still flex.
Hose and clamps can be used for the leadscrew to

stepper couplings. These serve well, but can be
challenging to align.
121 Suppliers
Mcmaster.com, use-enco.com and mscdirect.com sell precision leadscrews, leadnuts and collar clamps in a
variety of sizes
Sdp-si.com and econobelt.com sell belts and pulleys.
Dumpstercnc.com sells collar clamps, anti-backlash leadnuts and stepper couplers to match a number of
mcmaster.coms leadscrews.
Vxb.com and skatebearings.com sell bearings.
Price ranges are wide; it can pay to shop around.
20
The leadscrews and their components have to

exactly match on each axis.
Before ordering leadscrews, make sure the
matching leadnuts, couplers and clamps are
available.
It is recommended to start with dumpstercncs
parts, match with mcmasters leadscrews, and use
sdp-si for the belt and pulleys.
122 Leadscrew Parts

The next table lists the components that will
probably have to be ordered.
The collar clamps can be replaced with lock nuts,
a pair of standard nuts, or a section of hose with a
hose clamp.
All components can be the same size, or each axis
can use differently sized leadscrews.
Leadscrew Worksheet
Z Axis
Quantity
Diameter
or Bore
Acme or
All Thread
Threads
per Inch
Thread
Starts
Turns
per Inch
Leadscrew
~12 Inches
Leadnut
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
(1)
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Diameter
or Bore
Acme or
All Thread
Threads
per Inch
Thread
Starts
Turns
per Inch
Collar Clamp
Lock Nuts
Stepper Coupler
Sam e as Above
Bearings
Sam e as Above
Y Axis
Quantity
Leadscrew
36 Inches
Leadnut
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
(1)
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Collar Clamp
Lock Nuts
Stepper Coupler
Sam e as Above
Bearings
Sam e as Above
Quantity
Diameter
or Bore
Acme or
All Thread
Threads
per Inch
Thread
Starts
Turns
per Inch
X Axis
Leadscrew
36 Inches
Leadnut
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
(2)
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Sam e as Above
Collar Clamps
Lock Nuts
Bearings
Sam e as Above
XL Pulleys
Sam e as Above
XL Pulley
1/4"
XL Belt
Bearings (608)
1
30
All pulleys: 15 Teeth, Flanged, For 3/8" Belt

Can be Aluminum, or Plastic with Aluminum Hub
Single Side, Closed End, 3/8" Wide, 414 Teeth (Grooves)

22 x 8mm 2 X Idler
12 X Rails 8 Y Rails
8 Z Rails
The sdp-si part number for the belt is: A 6R3-414037

A 15 tooth XL 1/4" bore, plastic with aluminum insert, pulley is: A 6Z 3-15DF03708
The bores of the other two XL 15 tooth (groove) pulleys must match the leadscrews. Larger bore pulleys are
only available in aluminum.
21
21 Router Stand Overview

This section of the plans can be ignored by those
who do not want to build this table stand.
The router machine, with its table bed, can be
mounted on a stand. The stand permits the machine
to be pivoted down and rolled away for storage.
T he stand is made from 1x4s that are cut to length.

In the above image the stand is shaded and the table
bed fram e is white.
The back legs, 9 and 10, are hinged to the bottom

of the stand, and swing outward so the table bed
can pivot downward as shown below.
O pen front m achine on table

bed and stand with casters.
Machine swivelled down

for storage.
Neither the stand nor the bed are required for the
basic router machine. However, the stand and bed
are handy, and building them first makes further
construction easier, especially when a dedicated
work surface is unavailable.
T he back legs can

hinge outward.
Note: The steppers do not have enough power to

pull the gantry or carriage up a steep incline. If
they did, the machine could operate with the bed at
an angle; this would permit the machine to have a
smaller footprint. Unfortunately, the load is too
high for the machine to perform well when angled,
and the machine has to be fairly level to achieve
good cutting forces and speeds.
T he tables bed can

then drop.
22 Stand Construction
The 1x4s are cut to length as shown in the drawing
at the bottom of the next page.
The parts can be cut from any length of board.
Eight foot boards are shown because they will fit
inside many cars when the passenger seat-back is
lowered, and the length is an easily found size.
The stand is made entirely of 1x4s that are cut to

length and screwed together. These boards actual
dimensions are 3/4 x 3-1/2 inches.
The original ends of the lumber as purchased are

not always cut clean or square. Therefore, it is
often worthwhile to trim a fraction off one end of
the boards before measuring and cutting the first
part. There is enough extra stock for this to be
done on all four 8 foot (96 inch) boards for the
stand.
The table bed pivots on two 1/2 x 3 inch bolts that

attach it to the front legs, numbered 7 and 8 in the
following drawing.
22
The following information refers to the image

below and the one at the bottom of this page.
The parts are held together with glue and 1-5/8

inch drywall screws.
Parts 1 and 2 are 24 inches long.

Parts 3 and 4 are 18 inches.
Parts 5 and 6 are 18 inches, and are cut at 45
degrees on each end.
Parts 11, 12 and 13 are 36-7/8 inches long.
Holes for the screws have to be drilled in some of

the boards.
Pilot holes may also be required in the boards that
will receive the threads of the screws.
The 3/16 inch screw holes that are drilled in the
pieces can be used as templates for the pilot holes
in the matching parts.
Hold the parts together in the proper position and
drill through the 3/16 inch hole into the second
board with the smaller drill bit.
The smaller pilot hole can be drilled with a 1/8 inch
drill bit.
All screw heads are countersunk; the softness of
the wood will probably permit the screws to pull
themselves into the wood, so drilling a countersink
depression may be unnecessary.
C omponent 1x4s of stand.
Note in the drawing at page bottom that part 6 will

only fit on the second board when part 6's diagonal
is cut near part 5's diagonal. These shared diagonal
edges can be made with one 45 degree cut.
Likewise, trim washers can be used with the

screws. These dress-up the appearance and help to
prevent the wood from splitting as the screw heads
tighten into place.
All screw holes positions are straightforward, and
they can be drilled by eye rather than by exactly
following the dimensions that are shown on the
following page.
The 13 pieces can be cut to length at this time. It

will make construction easier to mark the board
number on each piece as it is cut.
8 foot 1x4s for stand.
23
The ends of parts 11

and 12 are drilled as
shown on the right.
It will then match the

other side of the stand.
Screw and glue the bottom
boards, 1 and 2, to the
bottom of the 7-8-11-12
assembly. The ends of
parts 1 and 2 are flush
with the edges of boards 7,
8 and 12.
The pivot bolt holes

are drilled in the tops
of legs 7 and 8 as
shown below.
The two bolts for the
pivots are 1/2 x 3
inch.
H oles for screw are drilled in each

end of boards 11 and 12.
Assemble these boards

now; check for square
before tightening the
screws.
The sides and

ends of part 12
are flush with the
ends and sides of
legs 7 and 8.
Cross members
11 and 12 are
around 11 inches apart.
This dimension is not
critical, but part 11
should be parallel to
part 12.
Legs 7 and 8, and cross
members 11 and 12, can
be glued and screwed
together now.
Check for square before
tightening the screws
into place.
Attach 1 and 2 to
the bottom .
Parts 3 and 4 serve as

strong-backs to prevent
parts 1 and 2 from
flexing. They are abutted
to legs 7 and 8, and are
screwed into place with
the three bottom screws.
H ole for pivot bolts in top of

legs 7 and 8.
Parts 1 and 2 can be used

as templates for the
Attach 3 and 4 to 1 and 2.
matching pilot holes if
pilots are needed.
Glue can be applied to all matching surfaces.
Parts 3 and 4 can be installed now.
Parts 11 and 12 are 11
inches apart.
The bottom boards, 1 and 2, can be drilled using

the layout that is shown at the bottom of the page,
and one board can be flipped so it is mirrored.
Stand components.
H oles in bottom boards 1 and 2.
24
H ole placement in diagonals.
The diagonals, parts 5 and 6, are

cut and drilled as shown above.
The part is drilled symmetrically,
so the one pattern can serve for
both pieces.
These diagonal supports are
attached to the sides as shown.
They are aligned so their 45 edges
are flush with the legs and bottom
boards.
Holes are drilled in the

bottom of both back legs
for the screws that
attach to part 13. Right
image.
The darkened hole may
block a hinge hole.
The screws that attach
the hinges can replace
this bottom screw by
using 1-5/8 inch screws.
Install diagonals
5 and 6.
Screw hole locations in the

bottom of the back legs. Leg
10 is a mirror of this.
Check that the bottom and legs are square, and

glue and screw the diagonals into place.
The hinges can be a variety of styles. The ones on

the prototype were low cost door hinges.
The back legs of the stand, parts 9 and 10, are

hinged to the bottom boards, parts 1 and 2.
The hinges are

screwed to bottom
boards 1 and 2 as
shown.
The back legs are
Hinge attached to board 1.
then rested on the
faces of the hinges that are
tied to the bottom boards.
The backs of the hinges are
then pivoted to be flush with
the leg boards, and are
screwed into place as shown.
The legs screw heads may be H inge attached to leg.
on the wrong side of the
hinges in regard to the hinges countersunk holes.
In this application this is not a problem. Finish
washers or round head screws can be used to
improve the appearance if desired.
Back legs are hinged.

Back legs screwed to part
13
The back legs, 9 and 10, are tied together with

cross member 13.
25
Other hinges and

orientations can be used.
The hinges can be
positioned so they are
completely underneath
the ends of the back legs
as shown.
underneath
Again, the method H inge entirely
the leg.
previously described
took advantage of
inexpensive locally available hinges, but there are
many options.
23 Table Bed Overview

The table bed uses 2x4s for the frame and 1x4s
for the surface. The 1x4s are spaced apart so
hold-down clamps can be tied into the slots
between the boards.
Hinges are not required. The legs could rest on the

ends of nails or screws that protrude up through
boards 1 and 2. The nails would keep the legs from
falling off of the bottom boards while still
permitting the legs to be moved when the
machines table bed is lowered.
Completed table bed made of 1x4s

screwed to a 2x4 fram e.
The surface can also be made of sheet stock such

as plywood or tee slot MDF.
The table top in these plans is built of 1x4s so
there would be no need to carry and cut sheet
stock. Also, it is a bother to have to buy an entire
sheet for this one small piece.
The back leg

length may need to
be altered so the
table bed will be
level. If too short,
shims can be
Shim on top of leg.
placed on the top
end of each leg, or
shims can be placed on the matching surfaces
underneath the table bed frame. This will be done
after the table bed is made.
During the Z axis construction, a 1x4 slat will be

removed to permit the spindle plate to be lifted up
through the table bed and into the carriage.
Casters can be attached to boards 1 and 2 at this

time. They are not mandatory, but they do make
moving the table for storage much easier.
The prototypes use 2 inch casters from home
centers.
T he table bed with one missing slat.
All four casters can swivel, which will permit

easier maneuvering into tight places. Or two
casters can be fixed and the other two can swivel.
A sheet stock table bed will block this. The gantry

will have to be partially removed from the X rails
to permit the spindle plate installation. This is not
a big problem, but it is less convenient.
The two fixed casters make it easier to steer the

unit without it wandering in the wrong direction.
There are other advantages to the 1x4 surface.
Assemble the stand before moving on to the next

steps.
Chips fall through the slots to the floor; this keeps

the slots from clogging and making it difficult to
slide the hold-down clamps.
26
The open slots also permit small parts, such as bits

during bit changes, to fall through; the parts do not
become lost underneath the overhangs of standard
tee slots.
The image at the bottom of the page shows the

frames parts as they are cut from 8 foot 2x4s.
25 Wood Note The 32 inches divide evenly into
the 96 inch (8 foot) 2x4s. However, this leaves no
room for the kerf removed by the saw blade, or for
the squaring of the ends of the boards, which may
be necessary.
The individual boards can be replaced when

damaged from continued use. There is no need to
replace an entire sheet of wood.
The two sides of the X axis are also 32 inches long.

These are the rail support 2x4s shown in Section
35.
24 Table Bed Frame

The table bed frame is made of 2x4s that are cut to
length and screwed and glued together. The screws
are 2-1/2 to 3 inch decking screws or similar.
Three 2x4x96 inch boards can supply enough 2x4

material for the entire machine when three 32 inch
lengths can be cut from one 8 foot board. Some
sawmills cut stock long enough for nominal 8 foot
boards to work. Otherwise, four boards will be
necessary. Four boards will also be required when
using pre-cut (93 inch) studs.
The frames outside dimensions are 35-1/4 x 32

inches, and the lengths of the 2x4s are 32-1/4 and
32 inches.
Note also, the length of pre-cut wall studs varies

regionally. They are sometimes of better quality
than regular 2x4 lumber, but their lengths are not
exactly 8 feet. They are sometimes referred to as 8
foot studs, but they are often shorter than 8 feet.
O utside dimensions of table bed.
35-1/4 x 32 inches.
The 2x4s for the table frame can be cut to length

now.
T he frame is made of 32-1/4 inch and

32 inch 2x4s.
8 foot 2x4s for frame of table bed. See Section 112.
27
H ole positions on 2x4 table bed frame side boards.

3/16 inch holes are drilled in both ends and in the middle.
Cutting these slats from boards

that are exactly 96 inches long
will cause the slats to be
slightly less than 32 inches
long, since some board length
is lost to the kerf or width of
the saw blade.
Holes for the pivot bolts are drilled in the two 32

inch side boards. The holes are 1/2 inch in diameter
and are centered top to bottom. They are 6 inches
from the end of the board. Image above.
Holes for the screws are also drilled in these two
side boards. These screw holes are positioned so
their screws will not obstruct other screws that will
be attached later.
Because these 1x4s only serve

as a bed, and do not determine
the dimensions of other
components, they can be a
fraction short.
They only have to be long
enough to be screwed to the
2x4 table bed frame.
Pilot holes for the decking screws may need to be

drilled in the ends of the 32-1/4 inch front, back
and middle 2x4s. This will depend on the hardness
of the wood. Use the side boards as templates and
drill through their 3/16 inch holes to position the
pilots in the ends of the 32-1/4 inch 2x4s.
Mark the 96 inch boards at 32

and 64 inches and cut on the
marks.
The pilot drill bit should be the root diameter of the

screws. This is the diameter of the shaft without
the threads. A 1/8 inch bit will work well with
many decking screws.
The resulting three pieces per

board will be close enough to
32 inches to work well.
The frame should be flat and square. The shop

floor can be used as a flat assembly surface when
a large level work area is unavailable.
Drill the screw holes in the

slats. The seven field boards
have holes in their ends
and middle. The two
side boards also have
holes in their outside
edge.
It is recommended to have the 1x4 table bed slats,

covered in the next section, ready to attach to the
frame before assembling the frames 2x4s. The
slats will help to hold the frame square as the glue
cures.
The placement of all of

these holes is not critical
and drilling can be done
by eye.
26 Table Bed 1x4 Slats

There are nine 32 inch 1x4s used for the slotted
table bed. These can be cut with no waste from
three 8 foot boards.
28
H oles in the two

outside slats.
H oles in ends of 1x4 slats.
Finally, center the remaining slats between the

installed slats. A slat that is near the center can be
left off at this time. This will make Z axis
construction easier.
When the boards are flat and of good quality, a

single screw in the middle of the boards can replace
the two middle screws.
The screws in the middle of the slats should be
countersunk so they will be less likely to be hit by
wayward router bits.
1x4 lumber is seldom exactly 3-1/2 inches wide,

and the offsets can accumulate; this is why the
preceding sequence is mentioned.
The screws used here are 1-5/8 inch drywall

screws or similar. Their pilot holes are 3/16 inch.
Again, these slat dimensions are not critical. As

long as the table bed is flat and square, and the
hold-downs can slide in the slots between the slats,
the table bed will work well.
Cut and drill these nine 1x4 slats now.
The 2x4 frame and 1x4 slats can be assembled at

this time.
27 Table Bed Assembly

Cut, drill, and then screw and glue the 2x4
components together. Be sure that the pivot bolt
holes are on the same end of the frame; also make
sure the frame is flat and square.
28 Attach Bed to Stand

The bed is attached to the stand with two 1/2 x 3
inch bolts with nuts.
Washers next to the bolt head and nut, and between
the bed and stand legs will follow good practice,
but are unnecessary.
The wear at these junctions is negligible, so
washers will serve more for appearance than
function.
Install the two outside slats, parts 1 and 9 as shown

on the following page, with glue and screws
immediately after assembling the 2x4 frame. Their
edges align with the sides and ends of the 2x4
frame.
These two slats will help to hold the frame square,
and gluing them will not create a problem later.
They will be out of reach of the router bits and will
not need to be replaced.
Locking nuts or Loctite should be used on the

bolts threads to keep the nuts from vibrating off.
Installation is straightforward. Align the holes in
the frame with the ones in the legs and install the
bolts and nuts, and washers if desired.
Swing the table bed up to horizontal and place the
hinged legs underneath the 2x4 frame.
The other slats can be attached with screws only;

this will permit easy removal and replacement.
The image on the next page shows the positioning
of the slats. The dimensions are rounded to the
nearest 1/16 inch.
Check that the table is level. Different hinge types

and orientations will require different lengths for
the back legs. The legs can be cut down, or shims
can be placed on the bottom of the 2x4 frame to
level the table bed.
The left dimensions are from the frame edge to the

slats edges, and the right dimensions are from the
frame edge to the slats centers. Either set of
dimensions can be used.
It may be easier to install the center board, slat 5,
so it is centered between slats 1 and 9.
Then center slats 3 and 7 between slat 5 and the
outside slats.
The bed does not have to be perfectly level for the

router to perform properly. If the table appears
level, it is usually level enough.
29
Stop screw behind back leg.
To prevent the back legs from vibrating out of

position and allowing the table to fall, a pair of
nails or screws should be driven into the bottom of
the table frame behind where it rests on the legs.
Above image.
Bed on stand.
Assemble the bed and stand. Once this is finished,

work can begin on the router machine.
The table bed with these screws can be lifted over

the legs, and the legs can be swung out of the way
when the machine is pivoted down for storage.
Slat placement on frame. D imensions are rounded to 1/16 inch.
30
31 X Axis
32 X Axis Pipe Rails
The X axis is the frame of the CNC machine on

which the other axes are mounted.
It consists of two 2x4s that support the pipe rails,
and 1x4 ends that support the stepper and
leadscrews.
Construction can begin with the pipe rails.
The machine can be

built with only the 1x4
and 2x4 horizontal
members, or it can
stand on legs, as the
images show.
The front of the
machine consists of
either a horizontal 1x4
that supports the
leadscrews, or two 1x4
legs that also support
the leadscrews.
Both versions of the
ma c hine ca n b e
attached to the table
bed and stand.
The version with the
two 1x4 legs, the open
front version, requires
the table bed to hold
the machine square.
These pipes are tied to 2x4 rail supports with

threaded studs that are cut from 5/16-18 threaded
rod.
The pipes are cut and drilled first; they will be used
to position the holes in the 2x4s.
X axis with no legs.
T he X pipes are held to the 2x4s

with nuts on 5/16 inch studs.
The two pipe rails for the X axis are 1/2 inch inside
diameter gas pipe that is cut to 32 inches long.
X axis with short legs.
Three 11/32 inch holes are

drilled in each pipe for the
studs attachment.
The dimensions are at the
bottom of the page.
X axis with legs on bed.
The holes are larger than the

5/16 inch studs to allow for
offsets in drilling. The holes
can be as large as 3/8 inch
if needed. They cannot be so
large as to allow the nuts to
offset in the holes or to pull
through the pipe.
O pen front X axis on bed.
T hreaded stud tying

pipe to 2x4.
Pipes are ID black iron pipe. O utside diameter is around 7/8 inch. Section 116 shows a cut layout for all pipes.
31
Use a center punch to mark the holes positions.

Sighting down the pipe from one end can help in
making sure the holes are all in a straight line.
34 Install Studs in Pipes
Drill pilot holes at the punch marks; the pilots can

be 1/8 inch.
The studs are held into the pipes with

a nut on each side of the pipe.
Installing the pipes inside nuts is not
as tedious as it may first seem.
Step up in drill sizes to the final 11/32 diameter.

1/4 inch usually works well as the intermediate
drill size. Using multiple smaller steps to the final
drill size can give cleaner and better aligned work.
Make sure that the nuts start easily

on the ends of the studs.
Put a punch, awl, pencil or similar in
the pipes center hole and roll a 5/16
inch nut down the inside of the pipe
until it stops against the punch.
The pipes can be cut and drilled now.

The Y and Z pipes are similar to the X pipes and
can also be cut and drilled now, while the tools are
at hand.
The dimensions for the Y pipes are in Section 42.
The Z are in Section 812. Section 116 shows a
cut layout for all pipes.
Lay the pipe down, with the nut in it,

and with the pipes holes facing up.
Use the punch to align the nut with the hole.

Insert the stud through the hole and thread it into
the nut.
Initially, press the nut down against the bottom of
the pipe while turning the stud into it. Then use the
stud to pull the nut against the hole and continue
tightening.
33 X Threaded Studs
The threaded studs that tie the pipe
rails to the 2x4s are cut from 5/1618 threaded rod. Six at 4-1/4 inches
are required for the X axis.
The stud can be turned onto the nut far enough for
the stud to touch the far side of the pipe. This will
help ensure that the nut does not fall off of the stud
while work is being done elsewhere.
Their cut ends are filed or sanded so

the nuts will start easily.
Put another nut on the stud and loosely abut the nut
against the outside of the pipe. The studs should be
able to move in the holes.
It is helpful to thread the nuts onto

the rods before cutting, and to then
remove the nuts once the studs are
cut to length. This will help to clean
the threads that were damaged during
cutting.
Repeat this for all six studs.

The studs should all project from the pipes in a
line. Remove any wayward studs, enlarge the hole
in the pipe as needed, and reinstall the stud.
It is important for the nuts to start

easily on the ends of the studs.
The six threaded studs can be cut to
length and filed now.
Stud in pipe.
Stud dims.
Make six.
32
35 Rail Supports
The 2x4s are first cut to length. Then the pipes

with their studs are used to check the position of
the holes in the 2x4s.
The two pipes are

supported by 2x4s that are
cut to 32 inches long.
The pipes and 2x4s are the same length, so their

ends can be abutted to check that the studs align
with the marks for the holes.
Holes are drilled through

the 2x4s for the studs that
tie the pipes to these
boards.
As shown in the images, the
bottom nuts are recessed in
3/4 inch depressions in the
2x4s. This prevents the
nuts from snagging the
stock, and it permits the
basic machine to sit directly
on top of the stock.
The holes through the 2x4s
are 7/16 inch to allow room
for offsets with the pipe
studs or hole locations.
These holes in the 2x4s can
be enlarged further if
needed.
It is important for the studs and the holes in the

2x4s to match.
Should the drill bit be too short to span the 2x4, it
will be necessary to drill the holes from both the
top and the bottom of the 2x4.
H oles in X 2x4s. O utside

of axis is toward the
right.
Drill the 3/4 inch recesses in the bottom of the 2x4s

before drilling the 7/16 inch holes. It will be
difficult to hold the paddle or Forstner bit true if
trying to center it in the 7/16 inch hole.
As with the holes in the pipes, drill pilot holes and
enlarge the holes incrementally.
The two 2x4s can be cut to length and drilled now.
Bottom nuts recessed in

2x4.
T he 7/16 inch holes in the X 2x4s are 3/8 inch from the outside edge, and 4 inches from the ends.
33
36 Install Rails
Attach the pipes to the 2x4s at this time.
Place a washer on each stud and insert the studs

into the holes in the 2x4. The holes in the 2x4 can
be enlarged if needed.
37 1x4 Cross Members

The stepper and leadscrews are held in place with
a 1x4 cross member that is on the back of the axis.
Insert the studs into holes in the 2x4.
It can be easier to install the studs when the board

and pipe are resting sideways as shown above.
Stepper attached to back of machine.
The front of the axis can

either be supported by a
similar cross member, or
with two 1x4 legs that
are attached to the table
bed. Right images.
Press the rail and studs completely into the 2x4.

Put a washer and nut on the
bottom end of the stud where it
projects into the recess in the
2x4. The nuts that abut the
pipes can be adjusted so the stud
will not project beyond the
bottom of the 2x4.
T he lea dscr ews

bearings are supported
in recesses in the back
1x4. Images below.
The edge of the pipe is in line

with the edge of the board as
shown on the right.
Incrementally tighten the nuts
that abut the pipe. Continue to
check that the stud does not
project too far from the bottom
of the 2x4.
H orizontal front 1x4
1x4 front legs.
Pipe aligns with

side of 2x4
Securely tighten the nuts that abut the pipe. The

pipe may bulge from the pressure. Lower right
image.
R ecess in 1x4, with leg

and 2x4 rail support.
Bearing in its recess.
These recesses are used in place of separate

bearing flanges. This reduces the parts count,
construction time, and eliminates another point of
adjustment. However, it is important for these
recesses to be properly spaced; their locations
determine the positions of the leadscrews, and
affect the belts tension.
This is not a problem; the surface

can be filed smooth if it interferes
with the travel of the bearings.
This can be addressed after the
gantry is installed.
The nuts in the bottom of the
2x4s can be left loose for now. Bulge in side of pipe.
They will be tightened when the gantry is installed.
34
Cut this back 1x4 board to length, 38-1/4 inches, at this time. Section 110 shows how to cut the board with
a minimum of waste.
The dimensions are shown below.
D imensions for the back 1x4.
38 Bearing Recesses
The following images show the layout for the

bearing holes and for the screws pilot holes that tie
this back 1x4 to the 2x4 pipe supports and legs.
There are templates at the end of the manual.
The seats for the bearings are

drilled with Forstner or paddle
bits. Forstner bits tend to give
cleaner work.
The bearing holes show the recess diameter for

both sizes of bearings. The OD will be either 7/8 or
1-1/8 inch.
The sizes of the recesses depend

on the size of the bearings, which
depend on the size of the
leadscrews.
Leadscrews with diameters of C ross section of
5/16 and 3/8 inch fit in bearings bearing in 1x4
with an outside diameter of 7/8
inch. Half inch leadscrews require 1-1/8 OD
bearings.
The bearings recesses should be drilled first. It is
difficult to align the holes when the 5/8 inch
through holes are drilled beforehand.
Pilot and bearing recess placement on

ends of 1x4.
T he ends mirror each other.
The recesses are drilled so the bearings will be

more or less flush with the outside of the 1x4. This
is not critical, but the leadscrews pulleys can
chafe against the 1x4 when the bearings recesses
are too deep.
The through hole is drilled after the recess is
drilled. It can be 5/8 inch diameter for all bearings;
however, the 1-1/8 inch bearings seals may rub on
the shoulder of the through hole. The through hole
can be 7/8 inch for the 1-1/8 OD bearings, or the
shoulders of the 5/8 inch hole can be sanded or
trimmed if needed.
End dims detail of back 1x4.
35
The bearing placement is important. Check that the

hole centers are 36-1/2 inches apart, as shown on
the drawing at the top of the previous page. This
36-1/2 inch measure takes priority over the 7/8
inch distance that the holes are from the ends of the
1x4.
There is a template at the end of the manual that

will simplify the hole positioning, and negates the
need to study the following dimensioned images.
The two drawings
approach the hole
placement differently.
One bases the hole
locations on radii from
the pivot hole. The
other measures from a
base line.
These holes and recesses can be drilled in the ends

of the 1x4 now.
Assembly and bearing installation will be done
later.
Slots and holes for stepper and

idler.
39 Stepper and Idler Holes

The back cross member also supports the X
stepper and idler.
H oles for stepper and idler in back 1x4

based on radii from the pivot hole.
X stepper with idler and belt.
X stepper and idler attached to 1x4.

Positions of holes for stepper and idler in the 1x4
based on the line at 18 inches from the 1x4's end.
The steppers mounting screws are tied to slots that

are drilled into this 1x4.
To keep the dimensions manageable, the values

have been fixed to the nearest 1/16 inch, and will
work as drawn.
The stepper is turned in these slots to adjust the

belts tension.
The vertical line that extends through the darkened

pivot hole is 18 inches from the end of the 1x4, and
serves as the base line from which other
dimensions are drawn.
The dimensioned images, right column, show the

placement of the steppers mounting holes, and are
shown for reference.
36
The 7/32 inch holes are oversized for the #10

mounting screws. These holes can be enlarged if
necessary. Washers on the #10 screws will prevent
the nuts from falling into the slots.
The closed front 1x4 is similar to the back 1x4

except it does not have bearing recesses, only
through holes for the leadscrews, and of course, it
lacks the stepper and idler holes. The templates for
the back 1x4 can be used for this boards ends. The
bearing recesses are replaced with 7/8 inch holes.
The holes for the #10 mounting screws are on arcs

whose center is the darkened 3/16 inch pivot hole.
These holes are large to permit adjustment for

construction offsets.
Templates are at the end of the manual.
Drilling the 7/32 inch slot-holes is most easily done

by drilling the two holes at the ends of the slots,
and then drilling the center hole that is between
these two end holes.
This front 1x4 can be cut and drilled now. It will

be attached to the axis later. Again, it is important
for the holes centers to be 36-1/2 inches apart.
Once the holes have been drilled, the drill bit can
be wobbled in the slots to smooth the holes
together.
311
A Dremel, rat-tail file or similar can also be used

to clean the edges of the slots.
1x4s for Open Front Machine
The slots edges do not have to be clean to serve

their purpose, but it is important for the #10
screws to move freely along the length of each slot.
The horizontal 1x4

is replaced with
two vertical 1x4s
in the open front
machine.
Drill and smooth these holes now. The template at

the end of the manual simplifies this layout
process.
These are screwed

to the table bed to hold the
machine square.
The stepper and idler will be installed later.
Construction of these two legs is

straightforward. The parts are
cut to length and drilled.
Front 1x4 legs are darkened.
310 1x4 for Closed Front Machine
The pilot holes are positioned to

prevent their screws from
interfering with other screws on
the machine.
The front end of the

leadscrews can be
supported either by a
horizontal 1x4 or
two 1x4 legs.
1x4 leg.
Front 1x4 is darkened.
Front 1x4 without the stepper and idler holes.
37
The two boards mirror each other. They can be

drilled the same, and then one board can be flipped
for the other side of the
machine.
Their length was also chosen to make assembly

easier; the X axis can rest on 2x4 scraps to
properly position the axis.
Shorter legs can
be used. Their
basic construction
is the same as
these 9-3/4 inch
legs.
Recesses are not drilled

in these legs; bearing
flanges will hold the
bearings.
The 7/8 inch holes are
drilled oversized to
permit adjustment of the
leadscrews positions.
These two legs can be
cut and drilled now.
They will be installed
later.
There are templates at
the end of the manual.
The shorter legs

could be cut and
installed later
after their need
and size is made
clear with the use
of the machine.
These legs are
simply cut to
length and drilled.
1x4 leg dim s
2x4 leg dimensions.
The screws pilot

holes are positioned so they will not interfere
with other screws on the machine.
312 Machine Legs

The X axis can sit directly
on the stock, or it can
be supported by legs.
The legs can be tied to
the table bed, or rest
on the stock or another
2x4 legs are darkened.
work surface.
These four legs can be cut and drilled now. The

Materials section shows how to cut the boards with
a minimum of waste. Section 112.
These legs are unnecessary

for the basic machine, and
this section can
be skipped when the table
bed or legs are not used.
The pipe rails are attached to their 2x4 supports.
313 X Axis Assembly

The following steps have been completed:
The back 1x4 is cut, and drilled for the idler,
stepper, bearings, and screws pilot holes.
The front horizontal 1x4 is cut and drilled, or the
two front 1x4 legs are cut and drilled.
These four legs are cut from

2x4 boards.
They are 9-3/4 inches long.
This length permits the Z
travel to be 6+ inches.
The four 2x4 legs are cut and drilled.

Assembly is next. It is straightforward.
2x4 side legs.
38
Rest the rail support 2x4s on the table bed or work

surface with the pipes toward the outside edges of
the 2x4s.
Their hole placement is the same as the top two

holes in the 9-3/4 inch legs.
Align the 2x4s with the

back 1x4 as shown on the
right, and screw and glue
the boards into place.
The rail support 2x4s are
1-1/2 inches from the ends
of the 1x4. Their inside
edges are 3 inches from the
outside of the 1x4. Right
image.
X axis with short legs.
The X axis is attached to the table bed with the 93/4 inch 2x4 legs.
Placem ent of 2x4 rail

support on 1x4. Pipes
are toward the outside of
the machine.
The axis is spaced above the table bed by resting

the 2x4 pipe supports on scrap pieces of 2x4 or
1x4.
This will raise the components 3-1/2 inches above
the surface of the table bed.
The legs are then attached to the table bed and the
2x4 rail supports.
Glue and 1-5/8 inch drywall screws or similar can

be used to tie these boards together.
Check that the boards are square before tightening
the screws into place.
Attach the side 2x4s to the back 1x4 now.
Basic X axis.
The process is the same for the optional front 1x4.

It can be glued and screwed into place at this time.
2x4 blocks supporting the axis while the legs

are installed. O pen front axis shown.
The components are tied together with glue and 21/2 to 3 inch decking screws.
The tips of the longer screws may slightly protrude
through the wood. The exposed points are sharp
and should be filed, ground or sanded.
Short legs can be cut to a desired length.

The tops of all of the legs
have to be 1-1/2 inches
below the top of the 1x4 to
give the leadnut clearance.
It may be necessary to drill pilot holes through the

existing leg holes and into the boards that will
receive the screws threads. A 1/8 inch bit works
well for most decking screws.
Short legs can be installed

now, or after the machine is
completed.
The bottoms of the legs are flush with the bottom

and ends of the table beds 2x4 frame.
Leg 1-1/2 inch below top

of 2x4.
39
The tops of the legs are

1-1/2 inches below the
top of the rail support
2x4s, and flush with the
ends of these 2x4s.
Right image.
This 1-1/2 inch top
measure should be the
default position when the
axis is resting on the 2x4
blocks.
Check that the legs are
square before tightening
the screws.
The 1x4s are attached

with 1-5/8 inch drywall
screws.
The top screw, with the
arrow in the right
image, must be counter
sunk so it will not
interfere with the
bearing flange.
T he top of the leg is 1-1/2
inch below the top of the 1x4
and 2x4.
These components of
the X axis can be
assembled at this time.
The X axis and table
bed are now at the
stage of construction
that is shown in the
lower images.
The front 1x4 legs of the open front machine are

installed after the 2x4 legs are attached.
The 1x4s are positioned so their outside edges are
flush with the 2x4 legs.
T ransparent view . 1x4 aligns

with the edges as shown.
The gantry has to be

built before further work can be done to the X axis.
The 1x4's top is flush with the top of the 2x4 rail
support, and the bottom of the 1x4 is flush with the
bottom of the table frame.
C losed front X axis on bed.
1x4 leg on machine
O pen front X axis on bed.
40
The pipes are cut to 32 inches, and 11/32 inch

holes are drilled in them for the threaded studs.
41 Y Gantry Overview
The process for drilling the pipes and installing the

studs is the same as was done for the X pipe rails.
See Section 32, and Section 116.
The two Y pipe rails can be cut and drilled now.
C om pleted gantry.
The gantry is made of 2x6 and 1x6 boards. The

2x6 supports 1/2 inch ID pipe rails and 1x6 end
plates. The end plates support the Y leadscrew,
stepper, X leadnuts, and the bearings that ride the
X rails.
43 Y Threaded Studs
The threaded studs that tie
the pipe rails to the 2x6 are
cut from 5/16-18 threaded
rod. Six at 3-1/4 inches are
required for the Y axis.
It is helpful to thread the
nuts onto the rods before
cutting, and to then remove
the nuts once the studs are
cut to length. This will help
to clean the threads that
were damaged during
cutting.
W ooden com ponents of gantry.
The Y axis construction sequence is similar to the

X axis. The pipe rails are cut and drilled, and then
attached to the 2x6 gantry beam.
The end plates are fabricated and installed.
The X bearings are then attached, and the gantry is
placed on the X axis.
It is important for the nuts

to start easily on the ends
of the studs. File, grind, or
sand the ends as needed.
42 Y Pipe Rails
C ross section of gantry 2x6.
The six threaded studs can

be cut to length and filed now.
There are two Y rails; they are made of 1/2 inch ID

gas pipe, and are attached to the 2x6 gantry beam
with threaded studs.
H oles in Y pipes. See Section 116.
G antry beam dimensions, front view.
41
44 Install Studs in Pipes
the four 7/8 inch holes are offset 5/16 inch from the
center lines of the original 1-1/2 inch holes.
This is the same process as was done for the X

axis. Directions are in Section 34.
Drill 1/8 inch pilot holes all of the way through the
beam at the center of each 7/8 inch hole.
These pilot holes will help to prevent the paddle or
Forstner bits from wandering into their neighboring
holes.
The studs can be tied to the pipes at this time.
Drilling the 7/8 inch holes halfway through from

both sides of the 2x6 can also lessen the extent of
the bit drift.
45 Gantry Beam
The 32 inch gantry beam is
cut to length and drilled.
Its dimensions are shown at
the bottom of the previous
page and in the cross section
on the right.
The gantrys 2x6 beam can be cut and drilled at

this time. Before drilling, make sure the 7/16 inch
stud holes align with the studs in the pipes.
46 Install Y Rails on 2x6 Beam

The 7/16 inch stud holes are
drilled oversized to allow for
offsets and adjustments.
These holes are 5/8 inch
from the back of the gantry.
The back is the side that will
be away from the carriage,
and will face the X stepper.
This is the same process as was done for the X

axis. Directions are in Section 36.
H ole placement in 2x6.
The 1-1/2 inch holes permit wrench access to the

nuts on the studs, and can be sized differently.
However, much
larger holes will
weaken the
beam, and
smaller holes
will hamper
wrench access.
A set of 7/8 inch
holes can be
drilled with a
paddle or
Forstner bit
when a hole saw
is unavailable.
The centers of
Pipe rails on gantry.
T he pipes are 3/16 inch from the back edge of the 2x6.
The back faces of the pipes are 3/16 inch from the
back edge of the 2x6 as shown above.
The pipes can be positioned by laying the gantry,
with the loose pipes, on its back.
Place shims between the work surface and the
pipes to hold the pipes into place. Then tighten the
nuts in the 1-1/2 inch holes.
Four 7/8 inch holes can replace the one

1-1/2 inch hole. T he centers are offset
5/16 inch from the center of the 1-1 /2
inch hole.
42
The 1/8 x 3/4 inch

aluminum angle that will
be used in this machine
can be rested on old CDs
to serve as the spacershim. Right image.
A CD will be slightly thin,
but it is close enough.
The right image shows the
2x6 beam between the
carriage and the tension
rods.
These clearances are
close, but can be adjusted
by moving the Y bearings
on the carriage top and
bottom plates.
Therefore, the positioning
of the pipes on the 2x6
should be close to the 3/16
inch, but there is some
room for variation.
U sing 1/8 x 3/4

aluminum angle and 1/16
inch scrap as a spacer.
Left end plate on X rail.
T ight clearance
around 2x6.
The pipes should be parallel to each other and the

beam.
All of the nuts are securely tightened into place at
this time. The washers will likely be pulled into the
beam by the tension of the nuts and studs.
Fine tuning can be done after the machine is
running. However, the pipes should be as close as
possible to their final position at this time.
The dimensions of the carriage are based on the
pipes location.
R ight end plate.
The end plates can be mirrored so the stepper is on

the left end of the gantry.
The recesses for the stepper bearing and the
stepper tee nut will have to be drilled from the
other side of the plate for the stepper to be on the
left side of the gantry. Otherwise, the end plates
can simply be moved from end to end of the gantry
with their outside becoming their inside. This may
be easier than trying to mirror the dimensions, or
working from the back of the templates.
Install the pipe rails and firmly tighten them into

place now.
47 End Plates
The end plates of the gantry are made of 1x6 wood.
This stock has an actual dimension of 3/4 x 5-1/2
inches.
Both end plates support the X bearings and X
leadnut assemblies.
The left end plate holds the Y leadscrews bearing
flange. The right end plate supports the Y stepper
and a leadscrew bearing.
The Z carriages Y leadnut will also have to

change sides when the stepper is on the left end.
This is also a straightforward switch. The sides of
the carriage can simply be swapped.
43
This deeper bearing recess will permit the use of 3

inch screws.
48 Right (Stepper) End Plate
The shoulder of the bearing recess that remains in

the 1x6 can be 1/8 inch deep as shown on the
bottom left.
This plate is cut to

length and drilled
for the stepper,
leadscrew bearing,
X bearing bolts,
and X leadnut
bracket bolts.
This will leave enough stock to support the thrust

load that the leadscrew will place on the bearing.
Front view of end plate
components.
The other recess is drilled on the inside of the plate.

It is for a tee nut that will hold one of the steppers
mounting screws.
There are two

recesses drilled in this end plate.
One is from the outside,
the stepper side; it holds
the Y lea ds c r ew
bearing.
This is the same
bearing support method
that is used with the X
stepper-end leadscrew
bearings in the 1x4.
This hole will be blocked by the 2x6 beam, so it

cannot use a regular nut the
way the other three screws
can.
This tee nut should not have
tines. When a tine-less nut is
unavailable, the tines can be
broken off of a tined nut.
Stepper end plate with

recess for leadscrew bearing.
The remaining stumps should

be filed smooth so the nut
can move freely in its recess.
The bearing can be deeply recessed in the 1x6 end

plate as shown below.
T ee nut in recess. T his

is shown for reference;
the stepper will be
installed later.
Bearing in deep recess.
The stepper shaft, or the leadscrew to stepper

coupler, may be long, which will require the
stepper to be far away from the bearing.
Back view cross section of tee nut. T he front m ounting screw is

not shown for clarity.
This movement permits the stepper to be aligned

with the leadscrew. The tee nut could be replaced
with a standard nut and washer, but catching the
nut with the threads of the steppers mounting
screw is difficult.
This length will require the mounting screws to be

longer, and long machine screws can be difficult to
find.
44
To allow for this potential offset, a smaller bearing

axle is used on the front
of each end plate. This
permits the bearing to be
adjusted so the gantry
will ride true.
There are two holes

drilled in the bottom
edge of the end
plates. These will
receive the threads
of the rail bearings
axles.
A brad point drill bit

facilitates the drilling of
the 5/16 inch holes, since
it maintains position
better, and does not
require a center punch
mark for initial positioning.
Bearing axle holes in the

bottom edge of the end plate.
The back hole is for
a 5/16-18 bolt, and
the smaller front hole is for a #10 threaded rod.
The gantry will be skewed when these holes in the

bottom edge of the end plates are not perfectly
aligned.
Adjustable bearing on
bottom .
The end plate can be cut and drilled now. There is

a template for this.
R ight end plate. It supports the stepper.
45
49 Left End Plate

This end plate is simpler than the one on the
stepper end since it has no recesses; the leadscrew
hole is a through-hole.
This end plate can be cut and drilled now.
Left gantry 1x6, showing bearing axle

holes in bottom .
There is a template at the end of the manual.

Left end-plate with bearing flange.
Left end plate. It supports the Y bearing block. T he front is toward the right.
46
These screws will have to be removed later when

glue is applied to the joint, so the screws can be 15/8 inch drywall screws for now.
410 Attach End Plates to Gantry

The end plates can be attached to the gantry beam
at this time.
It is also possible to attach them after the X
bearings are installed. However, it is easier to keep
track of the components orientation when the end
plates are in place.
Temporarily attach the left end plate at this time.
The right end plate, the one that supports the

stepper, can be permanently glued and screwed to
the gantry at this time.
T his is where building is now.

O nly the stepper end plate is glued into place.
Use a screw with a nut and

washer to tie a #10 tee nut into
its recess before attaching the
end plate. Right image.
411 X Bearings Overview

The X bearing are
608 bearings which
are tied to the end
plates with 5/16-18
bolts and #10
threaded rod.
The end plate to gantry

H old tee nut in place.
connection should be firm; use
decking screws rather than the
shorter drywall screws.
The shorter screws do not hold well in the end
grain of the 2x6.
It may be necessary to drill pilot holes into the end
of the 2x6. Use the existing holes in the end plate
as a template. A 1/8 inch bit works with most
decking screws.
Check the alignment
with the match lines at
1 inch from the back
and 4-1/2 inches from
the front of the end
plate.
Make sure the Y pipes
are toward the back of
the gantry and end
plate.
The bottom front

bearing on each end
plate is attached with
a #10 stud that is cut
from threaded rod.
A 5/16 inch nut is
used as a spacer to
position the bearing
on the #10 rod. Right
image.
X bearings on rails.
Front bearing attachment.
As mentioned, this smaller bearing axle permits the

bearing to be adjusted so the gantry can be made
square with the X rails.
G antry 2x6 is 1 inch from back.

Pipes are toward back.
Screw and glue the end plate into place.
The X leadnuts are also used to align the gantry.

However, using the leadnuts to address
misalignment that is beyond 1/8 inch will load the
leadnuts and cause drag on the leadscrews.
This extra drag slows the axis speeds, and
accelerates leadnut wear.
The left end plate is not permanently attached at

this time. It may have to be slightly rotated for its
top X rail bearings to align with the rails.
Attach the left end plate with only two screws.
47
The back bottom bearing is attached to the 1x6

with a 5/16-18 x 1-1/2 inch bolt. A 3/8 inch nut is
used as a spacer to position the bearing.
A 5/16 inch nut can be used when the axle bolt is
fully threaded. However, the threads of many 5/16
x 1-1/2 inch bolts do not extend far enough for the
nut to clamp the bearing against the bolt head.
The clamping force between the 3/8 inch nut and
the bearing is supplied by tightening the bolt into
the 1x6.
Metal outrigger with left front bearings.
Both versions work well. The wooden version is

simpler to make since it does not require the
bending of metal to a specific angle.
The metal version can support higher tensioning
loads on the bearings.
412 Wooden Outriggers

These four wooden bearing
supports are made of 1x2s
that are cut to 30 at one
end.
Back view of left end plate bearings.
The bearings that ride the top of the pipe rail are
held in place with 5/16-18 x 2-1/2 or 3 inch
carriage bolts. See images at the top of the page.
Oversized (3/8 inch)

through-holes are drilled
for the carriage bolts that
support these outriggers.
The length of the carriage bolt is determined by the

material that is used for the outrigger bearings
support.
Three inch bolts can be used with either wood or
metal outrigger supports, but 2-1/2 inch bolts are
too short for the wooden versions.
The bearings are tied to the

blocks with 5/16-18 x 1
C ross section of wood
inch bolts that are threaded
bearing support.
into 17/64 inch holes.
These holes are drilled at an angle in the bottom of
the blocks. See above right image.
The bearings that ride at an angle on the side of the

rails are attached with either metal or wood
supports.
The wooden versions are made from 1x2 furring
strips. This stock has an actual dimension of 3/4 x
1-1/2 inches.
The metal versions are made of 1/8 x 1 inch
aluminum flat bar.
Dimensions are on the next page.
48
The bottom 17/64 inch hole is perpendicular to the

30 bottom edge, and it can extend out the front of
the block through the face of the bottom 3/8 inch
hole.
The angles throw-off ones orientation, and it can
be challenging to align the bottom hole by eye,
though it is 90 from the bottom.
Also, the drill bit will have a tendency to wander
because of the woods grain.
Back bottom view of wood bearing

support.
Front view.
D rill toward the bottom of the lower 3/8 inch hole.
Punch a deep indentation in the bottom of the block

at the 3/16 inch position, and drill a 1/8 inch pilot
hole with the drill bit aimed at the bottom front of
the 3/8 inch hole. See previous image.
413 Fabrication of Outrigger Blocks

The blocks are cut to length from the 1x2 stock.
One 30 cut can saw two angled ends at the same
time as shown below.
The hole can then be enlarged to 17/64 inch with

the larger bit.
The 5/16-18 x 1 inch bolt, with a
bearing and washer, is tightened into
the 17/64 inch hole.
Do not over tighten; the wooden
threads may strip.
Blocks angles can be sawn with one cut.
It can be easier to measure the 3 inch length of one

block and cut the angle. Then measure the 3 inch
length from the angled end of the remaining stock
and square cut its other end.
The washer cannot rub against the

bearings seal.
A flattened 5/16 inch lock washer
works well here; a standard flat
washer may be too large in diameter.
The 2-9/16 measure on the shorter side will give an

angle that is close enough to 30 when a miter saw
is unavailable.
These bottom cut angles do not have to be exactly
30 to work.
Bolt in Block
Use pliers to align the cut ends of a

5/16 or 3/8 inch lock washer. The bent lock washer
does not have to be perfectly flat to work.
The 3/8 inch holes are then drilled in the blocks.

Start with small holes and incrementally step up
the drill sizes when using twist drills. The wood
splits easily with aggressive drilling.
A 3/8 inch Forstner or brad point bit works well
for these holes, and these bits do not require
incremental steps.
Glue can be applied to the bolts threads, but it is

better to do this after the alignment is certain. It
may be necessary to reposition this bearing when
the bearings are aligned with the rails.
These four outrigger bearing supports can be cut,
drilled and assembled now. They are all the same.
49
The holes are drilled after the metal is bent.

Otherwise, the stock will bend at the holes rather
than at the bend line.
414 Metal Outriggers

The metal outriggers are
similar to the wooden
ones, but the stock gives
a leaner appearance, and
they are able to be
tensioned more
tightly than the
wooden versions.
The wooden ones
may split when
overloaded. The
metal ones just
bend.
Clamp the short end of the metal in a vise at the

bend line, and use pliers or a hammer to bend the
angle.
The image in the left column can be used as a
guide for the bend angle. The angle is correct
though the print scaling may be
inexact.
After the angle is bent, the metal can
be drilled. All holes are 3/8 inch.
They are oversized to allow for
Aluminum outrigger bearings on left

end.
The bearing is held to the outrigger

with a 5/16-18 x 1 inch bolt and two
nuts, as shown on the right.
The overloading happens during machine tuning,

not during machine operation.
These four aluminum outriggers can

be cut, drilled and assembled now.
Bearing on
aluminum.
415 Install Carriage Bolts
O utrigger, perspective
view.
The carriage bolts are

now attached to the end
plates. Washers are
placed between the nuts
and the 1x6.
Alum inum outrigger.
The metal outriggers are made of

1/8 x 1 inch aluminum flat bar that
is cut to 2-3/4 inches and bent to
120, and then drilled as shown.
A
bearing
is
sandwiched between
two nuts on the bottom
bolt.
These were sized so a one foot

section of flat bar would supply
enough stock for all four
outriggers.
C arriage bolts and top of rail X

bearing on end plate.
The bottom nuts and bolt can be firmly but not

completely tightened into place at this time.
They will be completely tightened after the
horizontal bottom bearings axle bolts and studs
are threaded into the wood.
First cut the metal to length. Then

center punch the hole locations and
scribe the bend line.
These carriage bolts will help to prevent the wood

from splitting as the bottom hardware is installed.
The carriage bolts are then tightened to further
Bend angle.
50
clamp the bottom axles into place.
A 608 bearing is placed on the stud, and is held in

place with a #10 washer and nut.
The nut is only finger tightened at this time.
The top bolt holds the outrigger in place, and

should be tightened to the 1x6 after the outrigger is
on it.
The stud cannot extend far past the #10 nut or it

will rub against the 2x4 X axis rail support.
It is easier to install the outrigger on the carriage

bolts when the top bolt is free to move, so it can
align with the outriggers top hole.
The back bearing is attached similarly, but a 5/16

inch bolt is used since the bearing will not be
adjusted.
The eight carriage bolts and the four top of rail X

bearings can be installed now. The carriage bolts
are 2-1/2 inches for the aluminum outriggers or 3
inches for the wooden ones.
Place a bearing and

3/8 inch nut on a 5/16
x 1-1/2 inch bolt, and
thread the bolt into the
back bottom hole.
Twist the bolt in
firmly, but do not risk
stripping the wood by
over tightening.
416 Install Bottom Bearings

As stated in the X Bearings Overview, the bottom
bearings are held into place with 5/16-18 x 1-1/2
bolts, and #10 x 1-7/8 inch studs, which are cut
from threaded rod.
After the bottom bearings are in place, the bottom

carriage bolts can be tightened securely.
This will clamp the threads of the bottom bolts and
studs into the wood.
These two studs are cut to length and their end

threads are filed clean.
The ends of the studs need to be smooth so they
will easily thread into the wood. Otherwise the
wood will tear and the studs will not hold well.
Check the tension of the 5/16 inch bottom bearing

bolts against their bearings; tighten if necessary.
Two #10 nuts are tightened against each

other near the end of each of the studs,
as shown on the right.
A nut driver or wrench is used on the
top nut to twist the studs into the front
bottom holes in the 1x6 end plates.
Between 3/4 and 1 inch of the stud
should extend from the wood.
The #10 nuts are then removed.
A 5/16 inch nut is put
on the stud and
abutted to the 1x6;
this serves as a spacer
to align the bearing
with the pipe rail.
Washers can be
stacked to serve the
same purpose.
Bottom back bearing

on left 1x6
The bearings on the #10 studs are left alone for

now. These bearings will be adjusted when the
gantry is on the X rails.
Install these four
bottom bearings with
their bolt and stud
axles at this time.
Stud
The nuts that tension

the bearings that ride
the top of the rails can
also be tightened into
place now.
Bottom front bearing on left 1x6.
51
T ighten nuts for top of rail

bearings.
The gantry should now move smoothly from end to

end of the X axis, but it will still be able to twist
out of square with the X axis.
417 Install Gantry on X Axis

The gantry is now ready to be put on the X axis
rails.
Support the gantry by placing two 2x4s on edge, or

similar blocking, underneath the bottom Y pipe.
Image below. The blocks are to keep the gantry
from falling to the table. The gantry can drop a
little; the blocking does not have to abut the bottom
rail.
Place the gantry on the X rails.
Place the gantry on the rails with the long legs of

the end plates pointing away from the X stepper
end of the X axis.
Move the gantry to the back of the X axis. There
may be a lot of play between the bearings and rails.
The back bearings are fixed into place, so they are
used to position the X rails on the 2x4s.
G antry supported on blocks while

end plate is tilted and glued.
Remove the two screws that hold the left (Y

bearing flange) end plate to the 2x6. Swing the end
plate outward, above image, and spread glue
between the end plate and the 2x6.
Press the X rails against the back bearings.
The end plates bearings can remain resting on the

rail for this.
Swing the end plate back against the 2x6 and align
the 1x6 with the 2x6. Remove the 2x4 blocks if
they hold the gantry too high, and screw the 1x6
and 2x6 together with 2-1/2 or 3 inch decking
screws.
Drill 1/8 inch pilots for the decking screws if
needed.
Press pipes toward back bearings.
Tighten the X rail studs that are in the 2x4s on the

back of each side of the machine. Use a socket
wrench on the nuts that are on the bottom of the
2x4 supports.
The gantry should now travel on the X pipes with

all four top bearings riding the rails.
Tighten the Y stepper sides X rail front stud so the

rail is parallel with the X 2x4 rail support.
The gantry will still rack sideways since the front

bottom bearings are not adjusted.
These bearings will be aligned after the X leadnuts
are in place.
Move the gantry to the front of the machine.

Tighten both X rails remaining studs with the rails
pressed against the gantrys bearings.
52
The X leadnuts will hold the gantry square and

make this adjustment easier.
Install the outriggers and check that the bearings

ride well on the rails. The final bearing tensioning
will be addressed later.
Install the outriggers, with their bearings, on the

carriage bolts.
418 Install Leadnut Carriage Bolts
Abut the bearing

against the pipe rail
and align the
outrigger so it is
perpendicular to the
table, (parallel to the
end plate) by moving
the top nut.
See right image.
Install and finger
tighten the top outside
nut and washer against
the top of the
outrigger.
The bottom carriage
bolts nut is used to
firmly press the
outrigger bearing into
the pipe rails. This
will be done for all
bearings after the X
leadnuts are in place.
The bearings do not
have to ride exactly on
their centers on the
rails, but their edges
cannot dig into the
rails.
Use washers as
spacers where needed.
The four 5/16 x 2-1/2

inch carriage bolts,
two in each end plate,
that support the X
leadnut bracket, can be
installed now.
Only install one nut
and washer on each
carriage bolt. Tighten
the carriage bolts into
place.
Adjust nut so outrigger is

parallel to the end plate.
X leadnut bracket carriage bolts

in stepper end plate.
No other hardware is
put on the carriage
bolts at this time.
The right image shows
the future layout.
N uts positioning outrigger.
419 Gantry Review

C arriage bolts supporting
leadnut angle.
The gantrys Y rails are

aligned and tightened into place.
The gantry is on the X rails, and the X rails are

The X bearings are aligned so they ride the rails,
but they have not all been permanently tightened.
The outriggers are in place and are aligned, but are
not permanently tightened.
Potential problem areas.
The bottom front bearings are attached, but have

not been set against the rail.
The back outriggers bearings can be initially

tensioned against the X rails at this time.
The X leadscrew assembly can now be installed;

this is addressed next.
The front outriggers will be set later when the front

bottom bearings are aligned.
53
T his is where construction is at this time.
420 Note for Solid Sheet Table Bed
Z rails are in place.
This note can be ignored for tables that use slats

for the table bed.
This is not a serious problem, but a solid table bed

will alter the construction sequence.
The Z carriage construction is sequenced in a way

that requires the Z rails to be lifted up through the
missing table bed slat.
With a solid table bed, the X leadscrew assembly

can be installed and checked for fit, but the X
leadnuts will have to be loosened for the gantry to
be lifted when the Z rails are installed.
A solid table bed will not permit this.
Therefore, there is no need to final-adjust the X

leadscrew assembly, as described in the following
pages, until the carriage is completely assembled
and installed.
With a solid table bed, the gantry will need to be

lifted for the Z rails to be installed.
Or the Z stepper will have to be installed after the
54
Half inch leadscrews

will require 1-1/8 inch
bearings.
51 X Leadscrew Components Overview

The ends of the two X leadscrews are supported
by bearings.
The back bearings are recessed in the 1x4 that
spans the back of the machine.
The front bearings are supported by bearing
flanges that are tied to the front 1x4
legs or the 1x4 horizontal board.
The 7/8 inch bearing

will use the 5/8 inch
through-hole in the
bearing flange, and
the 1-1/8 inch bearing
will use the 7/8 inch
through-hole. See
dimensioned drawing.
R ight leadscrew in bearing

flange.
The recesses should

leave around 1/8 inch
of stock in the flange
to support the
bearings thrust load.
Right image.
X leadscrew on Y stepper side of machine.
R ight bearing flange.
The X leadnuts are attached to aluminum angles

that are tied to the gantry end plates with 5/16 x
2-1/2 inch carriage
bolts.
The bearings will

T he left flange is mirrored.
protrude from the face
of the flanges. The shallow recess is sufficient to
hold the bearings into place.
The leadnut and its

aluminum bracket
have to be on the
leadscrew before
the leadscrew can
be installed.
The larger recess is drilled first. It is difficult to

position the larger recess with the through-hole
already drilled.
There are two attachment holes in the flanges. One
is oversized to permit rough adjustment, and the
other is smaller for the final positioning.
The bearing
flanges also need
Leadnut assem bly.
to be fabricated
and installed
before leadscrew installation.
The flanges are designed so they can be attached

with 1-5/8 inch drywall screws without the ends of
the screws protruding into space where they would
have to be ground down.
52 X Bearing Flanges
The X bearing flanges are made of 1/4 or 3/8 inch
thick kitchen cutting board plastic.
There is more about working with this product in
Section 16, and Section 1 17.
X bearing flange dimensions.
O ne is mirrored. Leave 1/8 inch shoulder in
recess.
The bearing flanges are sized for either 7/8 or 11/8 inch OD bearings.
55
The two flanges can be cut and drilled at this time;

remember that one is mirrored. There are templates
at the end of the manual.
The aluminum angles have to be

drilled to match the shape of the
leadnuts, and to align with the
carriage bolts.
Note that the bearing

flange will partially cover
one of the screws that ties
the 1x4 to the 2x4. Right
image.
The machine permits a variety of

leadscrew choices, and it is not
possible to use the same dimensions
for all options. Therefore, the
dimensions will have to be
determined individually.
This screw must be

countersunk so it does not
interfere with the bearing
flange.
This is a multi-step process.
The leadnut is drilled so it can be

screwed to the aluminum bracket.
The aluminum bracket is cut to length, and
drilled to match the leadnut.
The leadnut, with the aluminum bracket, is
threaded onto the leadscrew.
The leadscrew is installed, and the aluminum
bracket is matched to the carriage bolts.
The bracket is removed and drilled at the match
marks.
The leadnut bracket components are assembled
and aligned.
C ountersink screw.
The two flanges can

each be attached to the
front of the X axis with
a 1-5/8 inch drywall
screw and a #10
washer. Tighten the
screw enough to hold
the flange in position.
Attach the two bearing
flanges, with one screw
each, at this time.
X leadnut
bracket.
Bearing flange attached with

one screw.
54 Leadnut Options
53 X Leadnuts Overview
A variety of leadnut
options are possible.
The leadnuts are

attached to
sections of 1/8 x
3/4 inch
aluminum angle.
Hardware store tee nuts

can be used as leadnuts.
Tined (pronged) or round
nuts will work.
These angle
brackets are held
to the gantry end
plates with 5/16
x 2-1/2 inch
carriage bolts.
Front view of
tee nut
attached to
angle.
Back view of
tee nut
attached to
angle.
T ined tee nut

on angle.
Washers on the screws hold the tee nuts in place.

The tee nuts do not have to be drilled.
End view of leadnut and bracket

tied to the end of the gantry.
56
Regular hex nuts, both hardware store and Acme,

can also be attached to the brackets with machine
screws and washers; however, it can be difficult to
properly align the parts during final tuning.
56 Holes in Leadnut
There is not a lot of room for the screw holes in the
flanges of the leadnuts. Therefore, these holes
should be drilled before the matching holes are
drilled in the aluminum angle bracket.
Larger flanged anti-backlash nuts are drilled for the

attachment screws.
The leadnuts may have to be trimmed to clear the
X 2x4 rail supports. Image below.
T rimmed and drilled

leadnut.
T rimmed leadnut.
It will be easier to tune the machine when the

machine screws are fixed into the leadnut, rather
than being loose enough to freewheel.
T rimmed leadnut on angle.
A 9/64 inch hole

will permit a #8 x
3/4 inch screw to
be threaded into it.
The plastic is soft
enough to not
require tapping
beforehand.
55 Hole Alignment
The screw holes in the aluminum bracket and
leadnut should be in line with the center of the
leadscrew and leadnut. Images below.
Machine screws threaded into

leadnut.
The machine screws

do not have to be extremely tight in the leadnut,
just tight enough to not freewheel when the nuts are
attached.
H oles in leadnut
are in line with
the center.
This is mentioned because there is a risk of

splitting the plastic when trying to force-fit a
machine screw into a too small hole.
Screw holes in line with

center of leadscrew.
This layout will help to pull the leadnut flush

against the aluminum without the leadnut skewing.
Misaligned leadnuts cause considerable drag on the
leadscrew.
The #8 x 3/4 inch screws are threaded into the

holes after the holes locations are marked on the
aluminum brackets. Plastic leadnuts can be
trimmed with a hack saw.
The screw attachment holes in the aluminum can

be larger than the screws. This will permit minor
adjustments.
Before drilling or trimming, make sure that

matching holes can be drilled in the aluminum
brackets.
These holes can be 3/16 inch; #8 machine screws

work well with the flanged leadnuts.
Read the next section before drilling the leadnuts.
57
This notch should allow clearance around the

leadscrew, and it should be small enough to leave
adequate stock for leadnut attachment.
57 Bracket Trim Note

The aluminum bracket will have to be
removed from the leadscrew during the
construction process.
The diameter of the

leadscrew plus 1/8 inch is
usually a good diameter for
the bottom notch.
The bottom corner of the bracket will

block easy removal with larger
leadscrews, and trimming the bottom
corner of the bracket will give more
clearance.
The hole for the notch is

drilled first, and then the
remaining stock is cut away
with a hack saw.
Right image.
A trimmed corner will require the

leadnuts mounting screws to be offset
from vertical.
Notches rather than holes are used so the

components can more easily be disassembled
during the construction process. Closed holes
would require the leadscrew to be removed between
steps.
The bottom nut and

washer on the leadnut
have to clear the other
leg of the angle.
Before trimming the
aluminums corner,
make sure there is
room for the washer
a nd nut in the
remaining space.
The hole for the

leadnuts notch
should be centered 3/4
inch from the bottom
of the aluminum
angle. Right image.
Leadnut on trimmed bracket.
This will leave 1/8

inch clearance above
the machines legs.
The legs are 7/8 inch
from the leadscrews
center as shown on
the next page.
The leadnuts can be drilled and trimmed at this

time.
58 Aluminum Brackets
Two aluminum angle brackets
are required; one is mirrored.
Right image.
The leadnut hole is

1/2 inch from the
corner edge of the
aluminum angle, as
shown above.
The locations of the brackets

top notches are not identical
due to the accumulation of
offsets on each side of the
machine.
The two brackets are 4-1/2
inches long. A notch is drilled
and cut near the bottom of one
leg for the leadnut and
leadscrew.
Sequence for trimming

notches.
Angle bracket notched

for inch leadnut.
This will leave 1/8 inch clearance between the X

2x4 rail support and this bracket, as shown on the
next page.
Leadnut angle
brackets are
mirrored.
58
59 Attach Leadnuts to Brackets

The leadnuts can be attached to the
brackets at this time.
The screws are #8 x 3/4 inch. They
should be tightened enough to hold
position, but the leadnuts will have
to be removed later.
Leadnut on
bracket.
510 Install Leadscrew
T he leadscrews center is 5/8 inch

from the rail support and 7/8 inch
above the leg.
This process is done on one side of the machine at

a time.
Make sure that the leadscrew support bearings fit
over the leadscrews. Some leadscrews are snug in
the bearings, and the ends of the leadscrews have to
be filed to fit.
Check for fit, and file the ends as needed.
Remove the bearings after checking for fit.
End view of gantry showing

the X bearings and trimmed
leadnut angle.
Thread the leadnut and its bracket onto the

leadscrew. Start the leadscrew from the
aluminum side of the leadnut assembly. Position
the leadnut around 6 inches from the
leadscrew end.
T rimmed bracket around

leadscrew. T his is shown
for reference. T he leadnut
would be attached. Arrows
indicate 1/8" clearance.
The angle brackets can be cut to length now.

The bottom notch and the two screw holes can also
be drilled in the aluminum brackets at this time.
They have to match the existing holes in the
leadnuts.
X leadnut with angle threaded onto back end of X leadscrew.
Insert the leadscrew into the front bearing hole in

the machine, image below, and then move it back
through the back bearing hole.
The bottom of the brackets can be trimmed if the

leadnut placement permits.
Remember that the aluminum brackets mirror each
other.
Installing X leadscrew.
59
Place the bearings on each end of the leadscrew.
The leadnut should be removed from the bracket

before the bracket is cut and drilled.
The brackets dimensions will be similar to the
ones shown here, but there will be some variation.
The oversized 3/8 inch diameter notches allow for
adjustments.
Leadscrew in front bearing.
Drill and notch this bracket at this time.

The other sides bracket will be notched later.
Leadscrew in back bearing.
Adjust the front bearing flange so the leadscrew

appears to be parallel with the X rail. This can be
done by eye. Tighten the bearing flanges drywall
screw so the leadscrew will not drop.
512 Align Leadscrew

After the aluminum bracket is drilled and notched,
firmly reattach it to the leadnut.
511 Mark and Drill Bracket

Move the gantry to the back of the machine and
align the leadnut bracket with the two carriage
bolts.
Mark the position of the carriage bolts on the
aluminum bracket.
End view of X leadnut assem bly.

X bearings are not shown for clarity.
A nut with washer is placed on each side of the

bracket, on each carriage bolt. Above image.
Align bracket with carriage bolts and
mark the positions on the bracket.
Align the bracket with the carriage bolts, and

clamp it into place with the nuts on the carriage
bolts.
D rill and notch the

aluminum bracket.
D im ensions vary.
The nuts are moved to position the bracket so the

leadnut does not bind on the leadscrew.
Remove the aluminum bracket from the leadnut.

The leadnut can be left on the leadscrew on the
machine, or the leadnut and bracket can be
removed from the leadscrew. Do whatever is
easier.
Turn the leadscrew by hand to check for excess

tension as the bracket is tightened into place.
Work incrementally so misalignment can be
addressed as soon as increased drag is noticed.
This is not the final alignment, but it needs to be
60
fairly close. The leadnut will be used next to

position the front bearing flange.
This is detached so the other leadscrew can be

adjusted without skewing the gantry. This bracket
will be reattached after the belt is installed.
Loosen the drywall screw that supports the front

bearing flange. The leadscrew may sag but it will
be supported by the leadnut.
This leadnut bracket and leadscrew alignment

process is repeated for the other side of the
machine.
Turn the leadscrew to move the gantry to the front

of the X axis.
The leadnut is being used to transfer the
leadscrews back alignment to the front of the
machine.
The leadnut bracket on the second side of the

machine does not have to be disconnected from the
carriage bolts after the leadscrews front bearing is
aligned.
Both leadnuts and their brackets should be
assembled and aligned before continuing. The first
leadnut bracket is left loose.
513 Install Pulleys and Clamps

Install the pulley on
the back of the
leadscrew.
Flats should be filed
in the leadscrews to
match the pulleys
setscrews.
G antry at front of X axis.
The leadscrew is not yet clamped into its bearings,

but it can still be used to move the axis by hand or
with a small power drill.
W it h s maller
Pulley on X leadscrew.
diameter leadscrews,
it is better for the
toothed section of the pulley to be close to the
bearing, with the pulleys hub toward the end of the
leadscrew.
This will help to keep the leadscrew from flexing as
the belt is tensioned.
When using a drill, do not turn the leadscrew too

rapidly or it will whip since it is not fully
supported.
With the gantry at the front of the machine, tighten
the front bearing flange into place with the one
drywall screw and washer.
This flexing is not a problem with 1/2 inch

leadscrews, and the pulley can be oriented with its
hub against the bearing.
The bearing flanges second screw will be installed

after both leadscrew assemblies are permanently
aligned.
Use a washer, if needed, between the pulley and the

bearing to prevent the pulley from rubbing on the
bearing.
A flattened lock washer will work when a washer
with the proper outside diameter is unavailable.
After the bearing flange is in place, the aluminum

leadnut bracket is loosened from its carriage bolts.
It is left hanging on the leadnut.
61
The end of the leadscrew should be nearly flush

with the end of the pulley. This will leave the
remainder of the leadscrew on the axis front.
Collar clamps are also available for regular

threaded rods, but are more costly than hex nuts.
The nuts or clamps are finger
tightened against the
leadscrew support
bearing.
A knob can be placed on the front end of the

leadscrew if there is room. This will make it easier
to move the axis by hand.
There only has to be

enough tension to prevent
the leadscrew from
moving from end to end in
the bearings.
Overloading the bearings
will shorten their life.
The leadscrew is tensioned with nuts or collar

clamps that are threaded onto the leadscrews front
ends.
Two nuts are tightened against
each other so they will not
work loose. These can be
used with threaded rod
or standard Acme rod.
Right image.
Regular hex nuts for
precision Acme threads are
difficult to find, so collar
clamps are used instead.
C ollar clamp tensioning the

leadscrew.
The tension can be increased until the bearings

become noisy or the drag increases.
Then the nut or clamp is slightly loosened.
Again, this tension can usually be done with
fingers; a wrench is unnecessary except when
locking the two nuts against each other.
A pair of nuts abutting
the bearing.
The X leadscrews pulleys and tensioning nuts or

clamps can be installed and adjusted now.
62
Note that these two couplers are not the same

named size, though their inside diameter will fit the
outside of a 608 skate bearing.
514 X Belt Overview

The two X leadscrews are driven by one stepper
and a long belt.
The bearings fit easily in the yellow plumbing

fitting, and do not have to be pressed into place;
they simply slide in.
An idler routes the belt around the steppers pulley.

The belt is tensioned by rotating the stepper in its
mounting holes.
The bearings fit tightly in the grey electrical fitting

and have to the pressed into position. Carlon brand
has fit well, other brands have been too tight and
have split in cold weather.
The images below show the options.
X belt installed.
The bearings loose fit in the plumbing fitting

requires the bearings to be spaced with nuts and
washers as shown below.
515 Idler
The idler is made of 608 skate bearings and a
plumbing or electrical conduit coupler.
A 5/16-18 x 2-1/2 or 3 inch carriage bolt is the
idlers axle.
The idler is fixed in place to the back 1x4; the
belts tension is adjusted by rotating the stepper.
A plastic coupler is used with the bearings because
the larger diameter reduces the wear on the belt,
and the longer coupler is more forgiving of belt
wander.
U ncut C PVC coupler with bearings spaced.
The tight fit of the bearings in the electrical fitting

eliminates the need to space the bearings with nuts
or washers. The coupler holds the bearings in
place. Image below.
A set of stacked larger bearings would serve the

same purpose, but the cost would be higher, and
this coupler system uses skate bearings which are
used elsewhere on the machine.
Two types of couplers work well.
One is a 1/2 inch electrical
PVC conduit coupler; these
are grey and are found in
the electrical section of
home centers.
Electrical coupler cross section.

Plastic electrical or
plum bing coupler.
It may be necessary to shorten the idler so it clears

the face of the stepper.
This was not necessary with any of the prototypes,
but the fit was close enough that it appeared that it
The other type is a 3/4 inch plumbing CPVC

coupler. These are yellow-beige, not white, and are
found in the plumbing section.
63
might be necessary when measures were not

exactly as shown in these plans.
tightened to the 1x4 with the nut and washer.
The plastic coupler for

the idler can be
trimmed to fit. Right
image.
The outside end of the carriage bolt will require

two nuts tightened against each other, or a locknut, to hold the idler. A single nut will loosen and
allow the idler to wander.
The plumbing fitting will

require both ends to be
trimmed so the bearings abut
the couplers center stop.
Image below.
The tension of the nuts against the bearings is only

finger tight at most. There can be a fraction of end
to end play for the idler on the carriage bolt. The
idler should turn easily.
The idler can be made and installed now.
T op view of stepper
with short idler.
516 Install Stepper

The stepper is tied to the 1x4 with four #10 x 2-1/2
inch screws.
Nuts with washers sandwich both the stepper and
the 1x4. Image below.
C ross section of trimmed C PVC coupler.
Only one end has to be trimmed with the electrical

coupler since the bearings will hold position, and
do not need to abut the center stop.
The bearings are pressed into the electrical coupler
by tightening a nut onto the carriage bolt axle as
shown below.
X stepper cross section.

T wo screws and idler not shown for clarity.
The pulley is put on the stepper; it is not tightened

into place.
All four screws with nuts and washers are attached
to the stepper; the nuts that abut the stepper are left
loose.
The second set of nuts and washers that will be on
the stepper side of the 1x4 are threaded onto the
screws.
U se 5/16 axle bolt as a clamp to pull bearings into

coupler.
The screws are inserted into the 1x4, and nuts with
washers are loosely attached to the ends of the
screws.
After the bearings are inside the coupler, the

coupler is removed, and the carriage bolt is
64
around the steppers pulley with its teeth in the

pulleys teeth.
All of the nuts will be tightened after the belt is on

the pulleys.
Loosely install the stepper with its pulley now.
517 Move Gantry

The gantry is moved to the back of the X axis, but
the one leadnut bracket is still not attached to the
gantry.
Stepper with belt.
The belt is then wrapped around the idler and the

leadscrew pulleys as shown, above right.
The leadscrew pulleys may turn as the belt is
wrapped around the pulleys. This may move the
gantry out of alignment.
Position the loose

X leadnut bracket
in its carriage bolts,
but leave the nuts
on the carriage
bolts loose.
Turn both
leadscrews at the
same time to move
the gantry to the
back of the X axis.
Installed belt.
G antry at back of X axis.
The leadscrews are turned individually to align the

gantry with the X axis, and to align the loose X
leadnut bracket with its carriage bolts.
Only one leadscrew is moving the gantry; the

leadscrew with the loose bracket is turned to move
the leadnut and bracket.
The idler can be

removed when the
belt is too tight to
permit the
leadscrews to turn
individually.
Align the gantrys back bearings with the ends of

the X pipes.
The gantry should be square with the X axis.
Turn the loose leadnuts leadscrew so its bracket is
in place around its carriage bolts, but leave the
carriage bolts nuts loose.
Once the belt is

routed correctly
and the gantry is
square, the loose
leadnut bracket is
tightened on the
carriage bolts.
518 Install Belt

The belt is slid
between the
steppers pulley and
the 1x4 from the
left side,
underneath the
idler. Right image.
The belt is wrapped
Belt path around pulley and

idler. Stepper n ot shown for
clarity.
Align X bracket with carriage bolts.
Install the belt, align the gantry and loose X

leadnut bracket, and tighten the leadnut bracket at
this time.
Slide belt between pulley and 1x4
from left side of stepper.
65
This was not necessary with any of the

prototypes, but offsets do accumulate, and this
would be the easiest fix.
519 Tighten Stepper and Belt

The steppers position is now set.
The #10 nuts on the steppers screws are adjusted
to align the steppers pulley with the leadscrew
pulleys.
The four nuts that sandwich the stepper are
tightened permanently.
The stepper and belt can be tightened into place at

this time.
The nuts that sandwich the 1x4 are abutted to the

1x4 to hold the steppers pulley in line with the belt
and leadscrew pulleys.
Note
Machines that use a solid surface for the table bed
in place of the 1x4 slats will have to partially
remove the gantry to assemble the Z carriage. In
this case, the squaring of the gantry and the bearing
tensioning should be done after the carriage is
completed.
Skip ahead to the Z Carriage in Section 61.
520 Square Gantry
The stepper pulleys setscrews are tightened.

The stepper, with its mounting screws, is rotated to
tighten the belt. The screws are slid in the slots in
the 1x4.
For machines with the 1x4 table bed.

Check the gantry for square. It should be correct at
this time, but offsets happen. Minor alignment can
be made by moving the leadnut brackets on their
carriage bolts.
R otate stepper to tighten belt. Belt cannot slap idler.
The belt should be tight enough to not slap into

itself as it passes over the top of the idler.
Adjustments can also be made by moving the entire

leadscrew by readjusting its collar clamp and
pulley. Be sure that the pulleys set screws still
press against flats in the leadscrew.
The belt does not have to be extremely tight; too

much tension will cause premature wear.
Check that the belt is in line with all three pulleys.
Adjust the stepper or its pulley as necessary.
The pulleys setscrews, and X leadnut bracket nuts

are securely tightened once the gantry is square.
Should there not be enough travel in the slots to

tighten the belt, the idler can be moved.
521 Adjust Gantry Front Bearings
Enlarge the idlers

hole in the 1x4.
The X bearings on the

bottom front of the
gantry can be pressed
against the rails after
the gantry is square and
the X leadnuts are
Use larger washers

with the carriage
bolt so the carriage
bolts head and nut
will not pull into
the enlarged hole.
Press bearing against rail

and tighten the #10 nut.
Enlarge idlers axle hole and

move idler away from stepper.
66
Check that the front outrigger bearings are not

putting any pressure on the X pipe rail.
Or the final tuning can be done for all axes after

the machine is entirely completed.
With fingers, pinch the bottom bearing against the

pipe rail. Tighten the #10 nut.
There is no marked advantage to doing it all at

once, or as each axis is completed.
Do this for both bottom front X bearings now.
522 Bearing Tensioning

Tighten the bottom outrigger nuts to pull the
There is a fairly large range of acceptable tension
for the bearings.
Generally, the tension is correct when it is difficult
to keep the bearings from turning by pinching them
with fingers as the axis is moved.
Back view of machine at this point of construction.
Over time, tighter bearings will press flat tracks

into the pipe rails; this is not a problem. This
indicates that the bearings are not permitting
excessive chatter.
The tracks in the pipe rails can be filed or sanded
smooth should ridges develop in them.
Tighten the outrigger bearings against the X rails
at this time.
523 Review
Machine ready for carriage installation.
The X leadscrews, pulleys, belt and X stepper are

now installed.
Construction on the carriage can now begin.
The gantry is now square and its X bearings are

tight on the X rails.
The gantry moves on the rails by turning the
stepper.
The X stepper can be powered and the axis can be
fine tuned at this time.
The Software Settings are addressed in Section 9.
67
61 Z Carriage Overview
These trucks consist of skate bearings that are

bolted to aluminum angle.
The Z carriage travels from

end to end on the gantry. It
also supports the spindle
assembly, which moves up
and down.
Fabrication is
straightforward.
The aluminum angle
is cut to length and
drilled.
The body of the Z carriage

is made of 1x4 wood.
The bearings are attached to the aluminum angle

with 5/16-18 x 1 inch bolts.
The axle bolts heads are on the inside of the angle.
A nut clamps the bolt to the angle, and a second
nut clamps the bearing in place.
The bearing trucks are skate

bearings bolted to 1/8 x 3/4
inch aluminum angle.
The Z axis pipe rails are
1/2 inch gas pipe, like all
other rails on this machine.
T op Y bearing truck on carriage.
The bolt heads are filed so they

will ride flat on the Z top and
bottom plates.
This material can be removed
with a file or grinder. A belt
sander also makes short work
of this, but the metal will
become very hot as it is being
sanded.
Z carriage with router.
File bolt heads.
The 5/16 inch holes are offset in the aluminum

angle so the bolt heads will not interfere
with each other.
1x4 components of carriage.
The two holes

that are on the
corner of the
C ompleted Y truck showing
aluminum
countersunk holes.
angle, and are
1-3/4 inches from each end, are countersunk for
screw heads and nuts that attach the trucks to the
top and bottom plates. Image above and below.
D determines
carriage height.
The height of the Z carriage must match the

distance between the Y bearing trucks on the
gantrys rails. Therefore, the Y trucks are made
first.
The nuts would

scrape the pipe rail
without being in the
recesses.
62 Y Bearing Trucks
The Y trucks are the bearing
assemblies that ride on the gantry
rails.
They are attached to the top and
bottom plates of the carriage. Right
image.
A countersink bit or
a 3/8 inch drill bit
can be used for
these recesses.
N ut in recess in angle.
Y trucks on
carriage.
68
Place the bearing trucks on the gantry rails and

measure the distance as shown.
These depressions cannot be too deep or the nuts

and screw heads will pull
through the aluminum.
The bearings do not have to be
exactly centered on the rails.
However, their edges should not
dig into the rails.
64 Y Leadnut
The dimensions of the Y leadnut determine the
location of the connecting holes in the side plate.
Therefore, the Y leadnut is cut and drilled at this
time.
Bearing alignment.
Left is okay, right is
not.
Use washers as spacers where

needed. This will only be necessary with different
sized components, or when the holes in the
aluminum are not drilled as shown.
Y leadnut on side plate.
As with the other axes, the leadnut can be a tee nut

or commercially made leadnut. The options are the
same as described for the X axis
leadnut in Section 54.
Y bearing truck dimensions.
These trucks can be cut, drilled, and assembled at

this time. The two units are identical.
The leadnut is attached to the

side of the carriage with two
machine screws.
63 Measure Distance Between Trucks
Slightly undersized holes are

drilled in the leadnuts
flange so the connecting
screws will not freewheel.
This makes adjustments
much easier.
The trucks are placed on the gantry

rails, and an outside to outside
measure is taken as shown.
This measure will determine the
dimensions of the sides of the
carriage.
The prototypes measures were
around 9-1/4 inches. This will vary
between machines because of the
differences in the wood, the
hardware, and the accumulation of
C arriage with leadscrew.
H oles in flange.
Screws in flange.
Holes of 9/64 inch

diameter work well with #8
machine screws. The screws
will cut their own threads as
they are tightened into the
plastic leadnut.
Measure from
truck to truck.
The center of the leadnut will

be 1/2 inch from the back
edge of the side plate. A
large leadnut will need to
have part of the flange
This measure needs to be accurate, but there is

some room for minor adjustments. A measure to
the nearest sixteenth inch will work.
69
Leadnut aligned with

holes in side plate.
trimmed so it does not overhang the back of the

side plate and drag against the gantry beam.
screws.
These holes are positioned to
match the screws in the leadnut,
and are drilled oversized for
adjustment.
Drill the holes in the leadnuts flange and trim the

flange at this time. The screws can be installed
later when the leadnut is attached during the
leadscrew installation.
65 Side Plates
The holes can also be notches to

allow more adjustment movement
as is shown in the image on the
right. The holes can be quite large.
The sides of the carriage are 1x4s that are cut to

length and drilled.
This woods actual dimensions are 3/4 x 3-1/2
inches.
Washers can be used with the

attaching screws to prevent the
nuts from pulling into the
oversized holes.
The sides height will be the dimension (~9-1/4

inches) that was previously measured with the
trucks on the gantry rails.
Holes of 5/16 inch usually give

enough adjustment clearance.
Leadnut screw
holes are aligned.
N otched holes.
Holes for the Z bearing trucks, their tension rods,

the Y leadnut, and the screw attachment to the back
plates are drilled in the side plates.
Side plates supporting Z

bearings and tension rods.
Side plates of Z carriage.
The leadnut is attached to the side plate in a

manner that is similar to the way the X leadnuts
were attached to the aluminum brackets.
A notch is cut in the
back edge of both of the
side plates.
Holes are also drilled
through the left plate for
the leadnuts attachment
D imensions of left side plate. T here is a template.
Sequence for notch.
70
The notch in the left plate has to be small enough

so the leadnuts flange will abut the side plate
without pulling through.
66 Back Plates
The notch in the right side plate can be large,

since its only purpose is to give the leadscrew
clearance.
The back consists of

two sections of 1x4
wood that are cut to 43/4 inches long.
They are attached to the
sides with glue and 15/8 inch drywall screws
or similar.
The holes in the side
Back of carriage.
plates can be used as
templates for pilot holes
in the back plates; a 1/8 inch bit works with many
drywall screws.
The back plates are installed with their edges flush
with the top, bottom and back of the side plates.
D imensions of back 1x4s.
These two pieces can be cut and attached to the

sides now.
67 Top Plate
D imensions of right side plate. T emplate at end of

manual.
The top plate is a section of

1x4 wood that is cut to 6-1/4
inches and drilled.
The notches for the leadnut and leadscrew are

positioned midway on each side plate. The center
position will be half of the sides total height.
It is notched for the

steppers shaft, and drilled
for the Y bearings and
tension rods.
The two side plates can be cut and drilled at this

time. The leadnut will be attached later when the
leadscrew is installed.
It also is drilled through its

width for two decking
screws, which prevent the
wood from splitting under
71
Stepper on carriage.
the load of the tension rods. Image below.
C ross section of top plate showing grain orientation and

2-1/2 or 3 inch decking screw.
T op front of top plate.
Washers are used with these screws to help prevent

the tension rods from tearing out of the top and
bottom plates.
The tension
rods holes are
near the edge
of the plates,
and the wood
alone may not
W ashers prevent tension rod tear-out.
support the
load.
The Z stepper is held to

the top plate with three
#8 machine screws.
T op plate on carriage.
The nuts for the front

screws are accessible from
the face of the carriage.
The back nut is partially
covered by the back plate
and has to be recessed into
the top plate.
A 3/8 inch diameter recess
is drilled 1/4 inch deep in
the bottom of the top plate
for this nut. Right image.
Back of top plate showing pilot holes for

decking screws in edge.
The grain of the top and bottom plates should be

aligned so the center of the tree from which they
were cut would be toward the 2x6 gantry.
C ross section of nut

recess.
The arcs in the previous cross section drawing

show the grains orientation for the top plate.
The tension rods will pull these plates toward the
gantry, and this positioning will be less likely to
split. The long screws add additional support.
The #8 nut is
inserted into the
recess before the
plate is attached to
the back and sides.
A tee nut will work
here, but this size
may be difficult to
find.
These screws are 2-5/8 to 3 inch decking screws as

are used elsewhere on this machine.
A screw with a nut and washer can be used to hold

the nut into the recess during assembly.
Bottom of top plate.
H old nut in place.

Back view of top plate.
72
shear off the back edge.

The notch does not have to be clean to serve its
purpose.
The 1-1/2 inch notch for the steppers shaft is

drilled with the same hole saw that was used to
drill the holes in the gantry.
This notch is large to permit easy access to the
leadscrew coupler. The notch can be a different
size or shape.
Like the holes in the 2x6, it can be made with a set
of smaller holes.
The top plate is glued and screwed to the back and

side plates with 1-5/8 inch drywall screws.
It is also possible
to cut slots and
shear away the
excess stock as
shown on the
right.
Make two cuts;
then use a chisel to
Make sure the sides are square with the back and
top before gluing.
The match marks between these pieces are shown

in the dimensioned drawings.
The top plate can be cut, drilled, and installed at

this time. Also install the two long decking screws
in the back edge. Remember to install the nut in the
recess before gluing. There is a template for this at
the end of the manual.
Stepper notch. C ut and sheared.
T op plate dimensions.
68 Bottom Plate
The bottom plate is similar to the top plate.
It holds the Z bearing flange rather than the
stepper.
The holes for the bearing flange are oversized to
allow for adjustments.
The bottom plate can be cut, drilled, and installed
at this time.
The long decking screws can also be driven into the
back edge of the bottom plate now. Dimensions are
on the next page, and there is a template at the
back of the manual.
Bottom plate.
Back of bottom plate showing

pilot holes in edge.
73
Bottom plate on carriage.
D imensions of bottom plate.
69 Install Bottom Truck
The bearings are positioned with the outermost pair

toward the back edge of the bottom plate. This will
give clearance for the tension rods.
The bottom truck is installed next.

It is held in place with
two #8-32 x 1-1/2 inch
screws. The screws
heads are in the
countersunk depressions
in the aluminum. Nuts
and washers tighten the
unit into place.
The two 1/4 inch holes in
Y trucks in carriage.
the bottom plate allow the
attachment screws to move so the truck can be
aligned on the rail.
Screws and nuts attaching truck.
Attachment screws in trucks.
The bottom truck assembly can be attached to the

bottom plate now. The nuts should not be tightened
at this time.
C ross section of bottom truck attachment.
74
The carriage is lifted

onto the gantry so
the bottom truck
rides the bottom rail.
610 Install Top Truck

The carriages layout makes it impossible to install
the top truck the same way the bottom truck is
installed. The top rail blocks the screws from being
retracted enough to install the unit.
The top truck is then

placed on the top rail
and slid into place
underneath the top
plate.
Press bottom bearings up onto
gantry rail.
N uts recessed into trucks alum inum .
This is addressed by inserting the screws through

the top plate with the nuts abutting the aluminum
angle.
A second nut with a washer, which is near the head
of the screw, is used to tension the truck into place.
Slide truck under top plate.
The #8 x 1-3/4 screws, with a nut and washer near

the head of each screw, are inserted into the top
plates 1/4 inch holes.
Nuts are rested
on the top of the
rail in line with
the holes in the
aluminum angle.
The screws are
then threaded
into the nuts.
Slide top truck into place and install

nuts.
Screws and nuts for top truck.
The screws should only be threaded far enough into

the nuts to hold well. The screws cannot scrape the
rails.
The nuts near the heads of the screws are then
tightened to secure the truck.
There may be some play between the bearings and
the rails. This is not a problem. The tension rods
can remove a surprising amount of looseness.
When the bearings are too loose to be adjusted with
the tension rods, shims can be placed between the
bearing trucks and the top and bottom plates.
C ross section of top truck attachment.
75
Spacers cut from beverage cans or CDs will work.

The spacing should be the same at both the top and
the bottom so the leadscrew will align with the
notches in the carriages sides.
Nuts with washers are tightened against the top and

bottom plates to pull the bearings against the rails.
The bearings should be tight enough against the
rails that it is difficult to prevent them from turning
when they are held between fingers as the carriage
is moved
The carriage is pressed as

close as possible to the
gantry.
The trucks bearing bolts
will probably prevent the
back of the carriage from
rubbing against the face
of the gantrys 2x6.
Adjust the carriage so it is
close to, but clears, the
gantry.
Bearing axles touch
The machine screws and
back of carriage.
their nuts, which tie the
trucks to the top and
bottom plates, can be tightened enough to hold the
trucks into place at this time.
T ension rods installed.
This hardware will be permanently tightened later.
611 Install Y Tension Rods

The Y tension rods are #10
threaded rods that are cut
to length. The two rods
span the back of the
carriage and pull the
N uts and washers on top of tension rods.
Their length is the distance

from the outside of the top
to the bottom plus 1 inch.
The prototypes were 103/4 plus 1 inch. A pair of
stock length 12 inch rods
were used. The extra
material projects from the
top, and does not get in the way.
N uts and washers on tension rods.
76
The bearings will press flats into the rails over

time. This is not a problem; any ridges that develop
in the flats can be filed smooth.
The flange is held into place with # 8 x 1-1/2 inch

screws which are threaded into the plastic.
The threads do not
have to be tapped; the
material is soft enough
for the machine screws
to make their own
threads in the 9/64
inch pilot holes.
The flats will form quickly, but will stabilize with

time.
The tension between the bearings and the rails
should be checked occasionally, and the tension
rods can be readjusted.
Incrementally tighten the tension rods while
checking that the carriage moves smoothly on the
rails.
Tighten the bearing trucks to the top and bottom
plates with their #8 attachment screws and nuts
while adjusting the tension rods.
Z bearing flange.
This flange is made the

same way as the ones
for the ends of the X
leadscrews were made.
This flange can
be made and
loosely installed
at this time.
Its bearing will
be installed later.
The carriage should ride smoothly, but it will not

coast a long way when pushed.
Any play will contribute to chatter. Therefore, it is
better to err toward a tight system with some drag,
than to a loose system that moves exceptionally
smoothly.
Back of Z bearing flange with

#8 x 1-1/2 inch screws.
There is a
template at the
end of the
manual.
Adjust the carriages Y bearings and tension rods

at this time.
612 Z Bearing Flange

This bearing flange
supports the bottom
of the Z leadscrew.
It is made of cutting
board plastic and is
sized to hold either a
7/8 or 1-1/8 inch OD
bearing.
Z stepper and leadscrew in carriage.
Z bearing flange on
bottom plate.
A 1-1/8 inch bearing,

for a 1/2 inch lead-screw, only gives 1/16 inch of
clearance for adjustment.
A 7/8 inch bearing permits more leeway.
Z bearing flange dims.
77
This system works well with smaller leadscrews

including 1/4 and 5/16 inch diameters.
The hose system works
fair with 3/8 inch
leadscrews,
and is difficult
to fit and align
with 1/2 inch
H ose with hose clamp coupler
leadscrews.
on stepper.
613 Review
At this time the gantry is on the X rails and the
carriage is on the gantry.
The carriages Y bearings are adjusted so the
movement is firm but smooth.
The problem with larger screws

is an offset may develop as the
hose clamps are tightened. It is
challenging to keep the stepper
shaft and a large leadscrew
aligned.
H ose clam p
This lack of alignment will
coupler.
increase drag, which will cause
the stepper to stall easily, and
the axis will not be able to move rapidly.
C arriage on gantry.
The leadscrew and stepper shaft should abut each

other with the hose coupling. This will lessen the
twisting of the hose and reduce backlash.
The upside to the hose clamp system is its price
and availability.
The commercially made couplers are easy to use;
they make the stepper to leadscrew alignment a
non-issue, and they are available in a variety of
sizes.
These can often be purchased from the leadnut or
leadscrew supplier. The couplers are machined for
specific screw threads and are not interchangeable,
unlike the homemade hose clamps.
Back view of machine with carriage installed.
The next step is the installation of the Y leadscrew

assembly, which includes the Y bearing flange,
leadnut, leadscrew, and stepper.
71 Leadscrew to Stepper Coupler

The leadscrew is attached to the stepper with either
a homemade coupling, or a commercially produced
unit.
The homemade system consists
of a 1-1/4 inch piece of 1/4
inch ID fuel line, or similar
hose, which is clamped to the
leadscrew and stepper with
hose clamps.
C om mercially
made couplers.
C oupler with leadscrew and stepper.
These commercially made coupling clamps are

preferred, but when cost is a factor, the hose
system can serve well.
H ose and clam p

coupler.
78
72 Y Bearing Flange
73 Install Y Leadnut
The Y bearing flange

is similar to the other
flanges that have
already been made.
The leadnut was trimmed and drilled before the

carriage sides were made; it can now be loosely
installed.
Washers can be used as needed to prevent the nuts
from pulling into the holes or notches that were
drilled for the leadnuts attachment screws.
Bearing flange on end plate.
It is constructed from
1/4 or 3/8 inch thick
kitchen cutting board plastic, and is sized to hold
either a 7/8 or 1-1/8 inch OD bearing.
N uts with washers on

outside of carriage.
Y bearing flange
Y leadnut in carriage.
D imensions of Y bearing flange.
74 Install Y Leadscrew
The flange is held to
the left end plate with
two #8-32 x 1-1/2
inch screws. These
screws are threaded
into the 9/64 inch
holes in the end plate.
Press the Y leadscrews stepper end bearing into

the end plate.
The 3/8 inch holes in

the bearing flange are
oversized to permit
adjustment of the
leadscrews position.
Thread the leadscrew

through the leadnut in
the carriage, and pass
it through the bearing
at the stepper end of
the gantry.
Install the Y leadscrew

from the left end of the
gantry as shown
below.
The bearing flange

can be cut, drilled,
and loosely installed
at this time.
The bearing will be
pressed into this
flange later.
Bearing in recess at stepper end

of gantry.
C ross section of bearing flange in

end plate.
Install Y leadscrew from left side.
79
Install the leadscrewto-stepper coupler on

the end of the
leadscrew as shown
below.
gantry end. Hold it in place by barely tightening the

nuts on the bearing flanges mounting screws.
Do not permanently tighten the nuts; this is a rough
adjustment.
Tighten the leadnut into place in the carriage. It is
to be tight enough to hold position.
The leadnut will be permanently tightened into
place later.
Z carriage with Y leadscrew
installed
Loosen the nuts that hold the bearing flange.

Turn the leadscrew to move the carriage to the left
end of the gantry, and tighten the bearing flange
into place.
Do not tighten the
screws permanently;
this may not be the
final setting for the
bearing flange.
C arriage near bearing flange.
The leadscrew is
now roughly aligned, and the Y stepper can be
installed.
Y stepper coupler on leadscrew.
The leadnut will be

used to transfer the
positioning of the
fixed stepper bearing
to the adjustable
Move carriage to right end of
gantry.
flanges bearing. This
is the same process as
was done with the X leadscrews.
75 Install Y Stepper
The Y stepper is held to the end of the gantry in a
manner similar to
the way the X
stepper is held in
place.
The Y steppers
mounting screws
are adjusted in
oversized holes,
rather than in
slots as were used
with the X axis.
Turn the leadscrew to move the carriage to the

stepper end of the gantry.
Install the bearing in the
left bearing flange on
the gantry.
Thread a nut or collar
clamp onto the end of
the leadscrew and
loosely abut it to the
bearing.
Center the leadscrew in
the hole in the left 1x6
Y stepper on end plate.
Three #10 x 3
inch screws with
nuts tie the
stepper to the end
plates throughholes.
Left end of gantry with
leadscrew in place.
One #10 x 2-1/2

80
C ross section of stepper with

leadscrew assem bly.
inch screw is used with the tee nut connection.
coupler; the coupler is tightened to the stepper.

The coupler should abut the leadscrew bearing.
For clarity, the Y leadscrew and X rail

components are not shown in the following
images.
The #10 x 2-1/2 inch screw is threaded into the tee

nut.
The three #10 x 3 inch screws receive another nut
and washer on their ends on the inside of the 1x6
end plate.
The nuts are all incrementally tightened into place
to secure the stepper in line with the leadscrew.
Inside view of Y stepper

attached to end plate.
The commercial couplers make this job simple.

Homemade couplers will require trial and error for
the parts to align.
T op outside view of Y
stepper on end plate.
The stepper can now be powered for the final Y

axis tuning, or the tuning can be done when the
machine is completed.
Front cross section of stepper on end plate.
Stepper end of completed gantry.
Back cross section of stepper attached to end plate.

T ee nut connection is shown.
The #10 screws are loosely attached to the stepper

Nuts with washers are threaded onto the screws,
and the screws are inserted into the mounting holes
in the end plate.
The steppers shaft is inserted into the leadscrew
T he machine is now at this stage of construction.
The Y stepper and leadscrew components are now

in place, and work can begin on the Z axis.
81
81 Install Z Stepper
The Z stepper is held to the top plate with three #8
machine screws. The front screws are 2 inches long
and the back screw is 1-3/4 inches.
The nuts of the front two screws are accessible
from the front of the carriage. The back nut was
embedded in the bottom of the top plate before the
top plate was glued to the carriage body.
Front cross section of stepper

on top plate.
Front view of stepper on

carriage.
Back view of Z stepper on

carriage.
The mounting system is

similar to the method
used on the other two
axes.
The screws are attached
to the stepper with nuts
and washers.
A pair of nuts and
washers on the front
screws sandwich the top
plate.
Stepper, with leadscrew

coupler, on top plate.
Back cross section showing recessed nut.
The back screw is threaded into the embedded nut,

and a nut and washer are tightened against the top
plate.
The leadscrew is aligned by moving the bearing
flange at the bottom of the axis.
Note The stepper can be installed with the

leadscrew after the Z bearings are in place.
However, it is easier to access the steppers
hardware without the Z bearings in the way.
The stepper can be moved downward after the

leadscrew is installed to tension the Z bearing into
the bearing flange. This is easier than trying to
access the lock nuts, which will be behind the
spindle plate.
The stepper can be installed now; it should be as

far from the top plate as the screws allow. It will
be tightened into its final position after the Z rails
are installed. At this time, all of the nuts should be
tight enough for the stepper to remain in place.
82
82 Z Bearing Trucks
These two truck assemblies can be built at this

time. Remember that one is mirrored.
These assemblies are long versions of the Y trucks.

However, unlike the Y trucks, the Z trucks are
mirrored to give clearance for the Z tension rods.
The heads of the bolts will have to be filed after

they are assembled, just as was
done with the Y trucks.
Z bearing truck angle dimensions.

O ne is a mirror image of the other.
83 Attach Z Trucks
Four #8-32 x 1-1/2 inch screws tie the two trucks
into place. Finger tighten the trucks into the
carriage at this time.
Z tension rods shown for reference.

T hey will be installed later.
Z truck attachment to side plate.
Attachment screw holes in

trucks must match sides.
Z bearings are
mirrored.
The 1/8 x 3/4 inch aluminum angle is cut to the

same length as the carriage sides. This was 9-1/4
inches on the prototypes.
Check that the holes on the corner of the aluminum,
at 1-1/2 inches from each end, match the locations
of the holes that are already drilled in the carriage
sides.
These holes accept the #8 x 1-1/2 inch attachment
screws.
The holes in the 1x4 sides of the carriage can be
enlarged should the final alignment be off.
T he carriage is at this stage now.
83
The center of the leadscrew is 9/16 inch from the

back plate. This will leave clearance for most
leadnuts when the flange is trimmed.
84 Z Leadscrew Overview
The Z leadscrew assembly includes
the stepper coupler, leadnut
bracket, collar clamp and bearing.
Parts are similar to those used on
the other axes.
The leadscrew can range from
hardware store threaded rod to
precision Acme. The leadnut can
range from a tee nut to an antibacklash precision leadnut.
Leadnut on bracket.
As with the other axes, the

leadnuts mounting screws are
threaded into holes in the
flange.
A 9/64 inch hole works well
with #8 screws.
The screws length will
depend on the thickness of the
cutting board and the
leadnuts flange. Screws of 1
inch will fit most options.
The leadnut is supported by a

bracket that is made from kitchen
cutting board plastic.
There is no bearing at the top of the
leadscrew. The load of the spindle
is carried by the bearing at the
bottom of the axis.
A pair of nuts, a collar clamp, or
lock nut, abuts the bearing to prevent
the leadscrew from being pulled
downward .
Z leadscrew
assem bly.
Back view of
trimmed leadnut on
bracket.
Z leadnut bracket.
The locations of the leadnut

mounting screw holes can
vary, but they should be in
line with the center of the
leadnut and leadscrew.
Right image.
T wo nuts
replace clamp.
The holes can be sized

differently than shown, but
the 1-5/16 inch center
distance between the holes
is fixed.
85 Leadnut and Bracket

The leadnut system is similar to the one used on the
other axes.
Screw holes align with

center of leadscrew.
The leadnut is drilled and trimmed as needed to fit

in the carriage, and a bracket is drilled to match the
leadnut.
Leadnut bracket
with holes for
three mounting
screws.
Z leadnut bracket dimensions.
The leadnut and leadnut bracket can be drilled,

trimmed and screwed together now.
C enter of leadscrew is 9/16 inch from carriage back.
84
The assembly is then

lifted and the coupler is
slid over the stepper
shaft. Right image.
86 Install Z Leadscrew Assembly

The leadscrew is cut to
fit. Its length is the
distance from the bottom
plate to the end of the
stepper shaft. T he
prototypes are around 101/4 inches long.
The coupler is tightened

to the leadscrew and
stepper.
The collar clamp or nut
is abutted to the bearing
which is in the bearing
flange.
The leadscrew can be a

little long, but it should
not extend very far from
the bottom of the bottom
plate. The extra length
may scrape on the stock
that is being routed.
The nuts are locked into

place against the
bearing.
Leadscrew attached to
stepper.
The bearing flange should be loose enough to be

able to slide on the bottom plate.
Leadscrew length.
The leadnut with its

bracket, the stepper
coupler, bearing and collar clamp or
locking nut(s) are put on the leadscrew, as
shown on the right.
Later, the bearing flange will be moved to align the

leadscrew with the travel of the Z axis.
The stepper can be lowered later to firmly press the
bearing into the flange.
The leadscrew is inserted into the bearing

flange. Bottom image.
Lowering the stepper and

leadscrew assembly is the
easiest way to press the
bearing into its flange when a
locking nut, or nuts, are used
above the Z bearing on the
leadscrew. Right image.
T wo nuts on
leadscrew.
The spindle plate will block wrench access to these

nuts.
When a collar clamp is used above the bearing, an
Allen wrench can access the clamps screws
through the 5/8 inch hole in the spindle plate. In
this setup the stepper may not have to be lowered.
Install the leadscrew assembly now.
Install leadscrew in bottom bearing

flange.
85
unavailable. The stock can also be removed with a

router.
87 Spindle Plate and Rails Overview
The 17/64 inch hole in the top of

the 1x2 holds the threaded stud that
ties the leadnut bracket to this
plate.
The spindle plate is made of 1x2

wood, which has actual dimensions
of 3/4 x 1-1/2 inches.
A 5/16 x 2-1/2 inch threaded stud,
which is glued into the top of the
1x2, is tied to the leadnut bracket.
Black pipe rails are clamped to the
sides of the 1x2 with machine
screws.
This 17/64 inch hole can intersect the

cross hole or slot. The open end will
permit the tailings, which result from
installing the stud, to be removed.
This can help to prevent the plate
from splitting as the stud is threaded
into place.
Z spindle
plate.
An aluminum tie holds

the tops of the 1/2 inch
ID pipe-rails apart.
Stud in 1x2.
The 5/8 inch hole is a port for a hex (Allen) wrench

to access the collar clamp on the leadscrew.
The router-spindle is
held in place with
band(s) made from
plumbing hanger strap.
A band clamp can be
used here as well,
though it is harder to
bend to shape.
88 Spindle Plate
The plate is made of a 1x2 that is cut
to length and drilled.
Two #10 machine screws will pass
through this plate and tie the rails
into place.
The passages for the screws can be
either slots or holes.
H oles centered
in side.
The slots make the pipe attachment

much easier, but holes can be used.
Drilling the holes and then removing
the face material with a hand saw
may be easier than trying to cut the
slots when an arm or table saw are
Spindle plate dimensions.
The hole and recess at the bottom of the spindle

plate are for a 1/4-20 x 1 inch bolt with a washer
which attaches the base of the router to the plate.
The 3/4 inch recess is 3/8 inch deep.
Plate with
slots.
86
A Porter Cable 7301 is used with the prototypes

due to its ease of installation. The DeWalt trim
router has the same base and can be installed the
same way.
810 Spindle Plate Stud

This stud is cut from 5/16-18
threaded rod; it holds the leadnut
bracket in place.
Other routers can be used; the connection system

will have to be customized for them.
The stud is threaded into the 17/64

inch hole in the top of the spindle
plate.
The Porter Cable and DeWalt routers are mounted

with one band under the switch, and with a 1/4 inch
bolt in the existing hole in the routers base.
Other systems could use two bands.
The hole in the wood does not have

to be pre-tapped; the stud will cut its
own threads as it is installed.
The threads on the cut ends of the

stud should be filed clean so nuts
will start easily without binding.
89 Porter Cable 7301

This applies to the DeWalt
D26670 trim router also.
Stud
dimensions.
This stud supports the weight of the router;

therefore, it is also glued into place.
The base of the router can be

rotated so it will align with the
spindle plate.
Otherwise the cord or switch
will abut the spindle plate
and prevent access to the 1/4
inch threaded hole in the
routers base.
Epoxy glue has proved to work well. Its slow cure

time permits the stud to easily be threaded into
place. Also, its slipperiness helps to prevent the
wood from tearing or splitting when the hole is not
pre-tapped.
The glue is spread on the threads before the stud is
twisted into the 1x2.
The excess glue should be removed immediately
and the exposed threads should be cleaned.
R emove screws and
rotate base.
Remove the four screws from
the base as shown.
Rotate the base so the cord and switch point in the
desired direction, and the 1/4 inch bolt hole in the
routers base faces the spindle plate.
The stud is driven into the hole with

locking pliers (Vise-Grips) or a
wrench.
Care has to be taken not to damage
the threads with the pliers.
Do not pull downward on the base or the armature

will be pulled from the brushes.
Should this happen, the top can be removed to
access the brush assembly.
This can be resolved by locking two

nuts against each other on the stud as
shown. The stud can then be twisted
into place with a wrench on the top
nut.
The router will be installed after the axis is

completed. It will be in the way if installed
beforehand.
Tailings and excess glue will be

pressed out of the 17/64 inch hole
where it intersects the cross slot/hole.
87
N uts locked
together on
stud.
The band is cut to length and

placed so its bottom edge is
3-5/8 inches from the bottom
of the 1x2.
This waste should be removed before it hardens

and blocks the cross hole.
Around 1 inch of the stud should project from the
top of the spindle plate. This will leave room for
the leadnut bracket, a washer, and nut on the shaft.
A screw or tack can be

driven through the band and
into the back of the 1x2 to
hold the band in place.
This stud can be cut and installed now.
The screw or tack may

interfere with the Z bearing
flange, and the screw or tack
should be removed once the
rails hold the band in place.
811 Band Clamp

This band clamp is sized and
positioned for a Porter Cable
7301 and a DeWalt D26670
trim router.
Placement of band on
plate.
The band is clamped around

the router with a 1/4-20 x 11/2 inch bolt with washers and
a locking nut. The holes in the
strapping may have to be
enlarged for the 1/4 inch bolt.
The band has to be installed

before the rails are attached to
the spindle plate. Therefore, it
is best to have the
spindle/router on hand when a
different router is used.
Otherwise, the rails will have to Pipe rails with band.
be loosened for later installation or alterations of
the band(s).
The clamping bolt can be

positioned in different
locations.
The bolt can bump into the
front of the machine that
uses a 1x4 cross member
instead of legs. This will
shorten the total X travel by
an inch. Rotating the bolt to
the side as shown resolves
this.
Two bands can be used to

hold a different router, as
shown.
This band is made of
plumbers hanger tape.
This is soft metal strap
that bends easily and can
be shaped with pliers and
fingers.
T op view of band.
Bolt on side of band.
The band can be cut, drilled, bent and

temporarily screwed to the spindle plate at this
time.
R outer held with two

bands.
Band dimensions.
88
The holes should be just large enough for the heads

of the #10 machine screws to clear.
812 Z Pipe Rails
A 23/64 inch hole was used with the screws that

were available for the prototypes; 3/8 inch holes
were very close to the bearings track.
The Z rails are made of 1/2 inch ID black iron

pipe.
They are cut and drilled as shown, and are held to
the 1x2 spindle plate with #10 x 2-1/2 inch
machine screws and nuts.
The holes for the shafts of the #10 screws can be

3/16 inch, or larger, if needed due to drilling
offsets.
The minimum length of the rails is the distance of

the leadnuts travel, ~8 inches, plus the distance
between the top and bottom Z bearings, ~7 inches.
This is around 15 inches, but the easiest route is to
cut the rails long to 18 inches as shown in Section
116. This will leave ample room for the top cross
tie, and the extra rail length will not be a problem.
T op cross section view of pipe attachment.
The 11/64 inch holes for the tie at the very top of
the pipes are not drilled at this time.
Punch- mark the locations for the #10 screw holes
before drilling. Make sure that the holes align with
the slots or holes in the 1x2 spindle plate.
The 3/16 inch holes can be drilled completely
through both walls of the pipe, and then be used as
pilots for the 23/64 inch holes.
Cut and drill the two pipes for the #10 machine
screws now.
813 Attach Pipes to Plate

The two #10 machine screws are inserted through
one pipe and passed through the spindle plate, if it
has holes instead of slots.
H oles in1/2 inch ID
pipe rails.
Front view of rail

assem bly.
The slotted spindle plate can be left alone for now,

which is easier.
The holes in the pipes for the heads of the #10

machine screws cannot be drilled too large or the Z
bearings will fall into them.
Place a #10 nut inside of the second pipe and

position it over the 3/16 inch hole by using a punch
or awl to reach through the 23/64 inch hole.
89
is not the permanent tightening, but the band clamp

should be in place at this time.
814 Cross Tie

The cross tie prevents the pressure of the bearings
from pressing the rails together when the spindle is
lowered. This adds rigidity and lessens chatter.
T hread screw into nut. Shown

without 1x2 spindle plate.
Angle aluminum of 1/8 x 3/4 inch is used for this

tie because this size of stock is required elsewhere
on the machine.
Flat bar will work too.
Start nut on screw. Shown with

1x2 spindle plate.
When the X trucks use 1/8 x 1 inch aluminum flat

bar for the outrigger bearings, there may be a piece
of aluminum left over that can be used for this tie.
A flat piece is simpler since it only has to be cut to
length to clear the Z bearings.
C ross section of
spindle plate and
pipes.
With both pipes horizontal, as shown above, catch

the nut with the end of the screw.
A screwdriver will be required when the spindle
plate is also on the #10 screw. Thread the screw
into the nut.
Repeat the process for the second screw.
Angle cross tie at top of rails.
Slide the slotted spindle plate over

the screws, and tighten the screws
and nuts enough to barely hold the
1x2 in place. Do not permanently
tighten the screws at this time.
The cross tie barely clears the Z bearings, and its

dimensions may have to be altered from those
shown.
When the Z rails are longer than the minimum
required, the fit is not as critical, since the tie will
not pass near the bearings once it is installed.
Place a scrap piece of 1x2 between

the rails at the top where the cross
tie will be installed. Right image.
The following images show the layout.

The aluminum is cut so it clears the bearings and
nuts on the bearings axles.
Lay the rail assembly on a flat

surface so the rails are parallel, and
tighten the #10 screws to hold the
scrap 1x2 in place.
This scrap holds the rails parallel
while work is done to the cross tie.
Scrap
between
rails.
Attach the rails to the 1x2 spindle

plate and tighten the #10 screws at this time. This
T op view of cross tie attachment to rails.
90
The Z rail and spindle plate

assembly is lifted up through the
table bed and into the
bearings.
Once the tie is cut and drilled, it is placed on the

pipe rails. The holes in the tie are used to position
the matching holes in the tops of the pipes.
To install the Z rails

with a solid table
bed, the gantry can
be partially removed
from the front of the
table or lifted from
the X rails. This will
require loosening the
X leadnut brackets
and outr igger
bearings.
H ole placement in cross tie.
Installing Z rails up through table

bed.
Lift the Z rails into the Z bearings.

The 1x4 bed slat can be loosely replaced; it will be
screwed in after the carriage is completed.
D imensions of cross tie.
Holes of 11/64 inch are drilled for the two #8 x 3/4

inch screws that connect the cross tie to the rails.
The bottom end of the Z rail assembly can rest on

the table bed for now.
The tie can be cut, drilled and installed at this time.

The 1x2 scrap is removed after the ties screws
have been tightened.
816 Tension Rods
The #10 screws that tie the pipes to the spindle

plate can be permanently tightened when the tie is
in place.
The two Z tension rods are shorter versions of the

Y rods.
They are also cut
from #10 threaded
rod.
815 Install Z Rails

Their length is the
outside distance of
the carriage side
plates plus 1/2 inch
for the nuts and
washers.
The prototypes
tension rods are: 61/4 inches plus 1/2
inch to give a total
length of 6-3/4
inches.
The Z leadscrew is
turned to move the
Z leadnut as high as
possib le. T he
leadnut bracket will
abut the stepper
coupling. R ight
image.
Move leadnut to top.
91
Shows tension rods placement.

T hey are ins talled after the Z
pipes are in place.
This carriage width measure should be taken after

the Z rails are in place. The Z rails may cause the
carriage sides to be pressed outward beyond the
original 6-1/4 inch width.
This is the starting point for the Z rail alignment.

Misalignment problems at this point have to be
addressed before further work can be done.
Should the rails be too loose in the bearings for the

tension rods to remove the slack, shims can be
placed between the bearing trucks and the carriage
sides, as was described for the Y axis in Sec. 610.
The hole in the leadnut bracket, and the holes in the

side plates for the Z trucks #8 attachment screws
can be enlarged to allow more adjustment room, if
necessary.
Install the two tension rods with their nuts and

washers now; they will be adjusted as the rails are
aligned. The rods holes in the side plates can be
enlarged should extra clearance be required.
Once the stud fits well in the leadnut bracket, align

the bearing trucks so they are parallel with the
front edges of the carriage side plates.
817 Align Z Rails and Trucks
The leadnut bracket is left at the top of the axis

during the following tensioning process.
The stepper should be attached to the top plate

tightly enough for it to hold position.
It can be lowered later to press the bottom Z
bearing and flange against the bottom plate.
Continue to check that the stud will fit well in the

leadnut bracket, and move the Z rails up and down
while incrementally tightening the nuts on the
tension rods.
Tighten the tension rods enough to prevent the rails

from rattling in the bearings, but leave them loose
enough for the trucks to slide on the carriage sides.
Move the Z rail
assembly to the top
of the axis so the
5/16 inch stud slides
into the leadnut
bracket as shown.
Right image.
Move rails up and down while
adjusting the tension rods.
The nut will not be

put on the 5/16 inch
stud until later.
The tensioning procedure is the same as was done

with the Y axis tension rods in Section 611.
Adjust the position

of the bearing trucks
Stud in bracket.
on the side plates so
the 5/16 inch stud is
centered in the leadnut brackets hole.
Align the rails and tension the bearings now.
92
818 Attach Bracket and Align Bearing Flange

Attach the leadnut bracket to the Z axis by
tightening the nut and washer onto the 5/16 inch
stud.
The nut is put on the stud with the leadnut bracket
at the top of the axis as shown.
Bottom back view. Z rails not shown.
T ighten nuts on bearing flange screws.
The leadscrew and rails should now be parallel

with each other, and the axis should travel without
binding.
819 Tighten Z Stepper

Z 1x2 plate attached to leadnut bracket.
The Z bearing should be firmly pressed into the

bottom bearing flange.
The weight of the axis is carried here, and any
looseness will contribute to chatter.
Turn the stepper and leadscrew, and check for

excess drag between the leadscrew and leadnut.
Proper alignment may require shims between the
leadnut and the bracket, or between the bracket and
the spindle plate.
The clamping screws of a collar clamp can be

reached with an Allen wrench through the 5/8 inch
hole in the spindle plate.
A rough alignment can be done now, and the axis

can be fine tuned later when the stepper is
powered.
The leadscrew is turned along

with the stepper while the
collar clamp is prevented
from turning.
The leadscrew is
rotated to press the
clamp against the
bearing.
As was done with the other axes, the alignment of

the leadnut and leadscrew at the stepper end of the
axis will be transferred to the far end of the axis.
Turn the leadscrew to move the axis as low as it
will go. The rails will be stopped by the table top,
or the leadnut will be stopped by the leadscrew
clamp.
The clamps screws

are then tightened
with the Allen wrench.
Tighten the nuts on the bearing flanges screws that

project from underneath the bottom plate as shown
in the next image.
This adjustment process is

not possible when nuts are
used in place of the collar
clamp, since the spindle
plate blocks wrench
Spindle near bottom of travel.
access.
93
The bearing is pressed into the flange by moving

the stepper downward with its #8 mounting screws
and nuts.
Move the stepper downward as necessary and lock
it into place by tightening all of the nuts on the #8
machine screws.
The stepper can now be permanently tightened to
the carriage top plate.
The router can now be installed. The mounting
system is described in Section 811.
The machines steppers can now be powered, and
the axes can be fine tuned.
The process is the same for all axes.
R aised spindle.
C ompleted machine.
94
HobbyCNC and Xylotex steppers are 200 steps per

revolution at this writing, and this is unlikely to
change since 200 is a common value.
91 Software Settings, Introduction

The settings in the software have to match the
components of the machine.
93 Micro-Stepping
Values include the Steps per Unit of the axis, the

Speed or Velocity, and the Acceleration.
The steppers 200 steps can be divided into smaller

steps, micro-steps, by the drives and software. This
micro-stepping is used to give smoother stepper
operation.
The factors that determine the Steps per Unit

include the steps per revolution of the stepper, the
micro-stepping that is set on the drive, and the
Micro-stepping may also be used to increase

resolution, to give more steps per inch, and thus
supposedly better accuracy.
This practice is not recommended by some drive
suppliers, and their documentation should be
followed.
The steppers documentation will give the number

of steps per revolution; it is usually 200.
The micro-stepping value is set on the drives, and
will be recommended by the drive supplier.
Micro-stepping values can range from 2 to 16 or

more, and are often set by altering jumpers on the
drive boards.
The leadscrews turns per inch is given by the

supplier, or the value can easily be derived.
It is better to initially use the values recommended

by the drive suppliers. The values can be changed
later if there are problems with noisy or uneven
stepper operation.
The alterations are a trial and error process.
92 Steps per Revolution, Stepper

A stepper is designed to move one step with each
step signal that is sent by the drive.
The number of steps required for the steppers
shaft to turn one complete revolution is usually
200.
The steppers manufacturer will express this as a
steps per revolution value, 200, or as the number
of degrees turned per step, 1.8
The micro-stepping values will be expressed as

fractions or as whole numbers; e.g. 1/8 microstepping can also be expressed as 8 micro-steps.
For each of the 200 native steps, 8 micro-steps are
sent to the stepper; each native step is divided into
eighths.
This 1.8 degrees is derived by dividing the number

of degrees in one revolution, 360, by the number of
steps required to turn one revolution, 200.
360/200 = 1.8
With a 200 step per revolution stepper, the number

of steps per revolution with 8 micro-stepping
would be 200 multiplied by 8 = 1600 steps per
revolution.
Likewise, the 200 steps per revolution can be

derived by dividing 360 per revolution by 1.8 per
step.
360/1.8 = 200
This value will be used to determine the number of

Steps per Unit the axis will move.
This previous information is mentioned for

background, and will probably not have to be
calculated.
95
The turns per inch is determined by dividing the

threads per inch by the number of separate threads
or starts.
94 Leadscrews
See also Section 119.
All of these values are usually given by the

supplier, and they will not have to be calculated.
The Steps per Unit value that is entered into the

softwares motor configuration setup also depends
on the turns per inch of the leadscrews.
An advantage with a multi-start leadscrew is it can

move an axis faster without having to turn as
rapidly. This reduces leadscrew whipping, and
permits a slower stepper to move the axis faster.
This value is the same as the thread count for

standard hardware store single start threaded rod.
The name of this rod includes the diameter and
thread count per inch, such as 5/16-18 or 3/8-16.
A variety of leadscrews are available. It is

recommended to check that the properly sized
leadnut is available when choosing the leadscrew.
See also Section 119.
An 18 thread per inch rod will have to turn 18

times to move the axis one inch.
Acme rod is available in a variety of threads per
inch, starts, and turns per inch.
96 Determining Steps per Unit (Inch)

motor setup dialogue box is the native resolution of
the stepper, multiplied by the micro-stepping value
as a whole number, multiplied by the turns per inch
of the leadscrew.
95 Starts and Turns per Inch

A basic threaded rod has one start, single start,
which means one thread winds down the rod. Its
turns per inch and threads per inch are the same.
A two start rod has two separate parallel threads
that wind down the rod.
A multicolor barber pole or candy cane are
examples of multi-start threads. The red thread and
blue thread wind down the shaft together, but they
are separate threads.
From the previous examples.

200 steps per revolution stepper
8 micro-stepping
5 turns per inch leadscrew.
A 2 start leadscrew can have 10 threads per inch,

for example, but will only have to turn 5 times to
move the axis one inch. It is a 5 turn per inch
leadscrew.

motor setup box for each axis.
200 x 8 x 5 = 8000 Steps per Inch
97 Resolution
Resolution is the distance the machine moves with
each step. It is simply the reciprocal of the Steps
per Unit.
From the previous example:
The reciprocal of 8000 is 1/8000
5 T urns per Inch - 2 Start
1 8000 steps per inch = 0.000125 inch per step
T hreads per Inch and T urns per Inch.
96
The smallest amount the axis with this leadscrew

and micro-stepping can be commanded to move is
0.125 thousandths of an inch.
The complete CNC process is easier when all

elements, the CAD, CAM, controller and machine
are all are oriented the same way. Otherwise, it is
challenging to continually rotate the mental map of
the process between steps.
A leadscrew with more turns per inch would give

a smaller resolution.
For example the 5/16-18 threaded rod would give
200 x 8 x 18 = 28800 steps per inch
and a resolution of 0.000034722 inch per step.
The default layout for most CAD software has the

X axis oriented as right-left (east-west)), Y northsouth, and Z up and down, and with the origin,
0,0,0, at the lower left hand corner.
This tiny value per step is smaller than the machine

is capable of physically holding since it is made of
inexpensive components.
Resolution less than 1 thousandth of an inch is
unlikely to improve the performance of the
machine.
The CAM software can use the same orientation.

However, this can and frequently does vary for
both the CAD and CAM processes.
A leadscrew with 2 turns per inch with the previous

stepper, and no micro-stepping will give:
The Z axis is usually the up and down axis with up

motion being positive and down being negative.
The zero point, the Z origin, can be anywhere. It
can be set as the table bed, the bottom of the stock,
the bottom of the cut, or the top of the stock,
among anything else.
This can be altered with each run to fit the g-code
and the stock.
200 x 1 x 2 = 400 steps per inch, and a resolution

of 2.5 thousandths of an inch. 1/400 = 0.0025
This value is still in the range of the machines
expected tolerance, so this configuration could be
used without limiting the machines accuracy.
There is a wide range of options for the leadscrew
and micro-stepping values.
These can be altered to give the best performance
and will vary with the software, each axis, stepper,
and computer.
99 Switch X and Y Axis Names

It may be preferable to exchange the X and Y axes
on this machine, since the two axes are the same
length.
Note that some software uses Resolution rather

than Steps per Unit in its motor setup; again both
are derived the same way, one is simply the
reciprocal of the other.
On longer
machines it can
be practical to
make the X axis
the longer axis
since signs,
among other
projects, tend to
be wider-longer
than they are
high.
98 Axis Names
As mentioned, the axes in these plans are named in
a way that is logical for construction, but they can
be renamed when the software is set up.
There are no hard and fast rules; the axes can be
named in a way that makes the machine the most
intuitive to use, and this will vary among builders.
Machine axes as described in these

plans.
This requires the work to be aligned with the long

axis of the table, which means the longer side of
the table is the front in terms of the CAD work.
97
It is dangerously easy to jog the axes in the wrong

direction when the keyboard and monitor are not
aligned with the motion of the machine.
On this 25 x 25 inch machine, the X and Y are the

same length, so there is no advantage in having the
X axis as the table bed axis.
Again, do what is the most intuitive. The machine

should match the body and minds autopilot.
Also, the carriage-on-gantry axis is often capable

of moving faster than the entire gantry, since the
carriage is lighter and only uses one leadscrew.
Orienting work so it is parallel with the gantry
generally permits a faster overall job.
The controlling software can easily be reconfigured

should the initial setup be awkward.
910 Speed (Velocity) and Acceleration
An obvious factor is, the open front of this machine

is the easiest way to access the router and table
bed. So it is logical for the open front of this
machine to also be the front of the machine in
terms of the CAD-CAM layout.
These two values also have to be set in the

softwares motor setup.
Velocity is how fast the axis moves in inches or
mm per minute or second. The units that are used
depend on the software.
The velocity is analogous to a highways speed
limit. The axis will never exceed the set speed.
This layout assigns the X left-right motion to the

carriage moving on the gantry, and the Y motion
becomes the entire gantry moving to and from the
belted stepper.
This is switched from the way the machine was
described and built, but it can make further
operation more intuitive.
Acceleration is the rate at which the axis achieves

the set velocity. High acceleration is analogous to
a sports car, while low acceleration is a truck.
They both achieve the speed limit, but at different
rates.
Extremely slow acceleration will command the axis
to slowly ramp up to speed, while high acceleration
will cause the table to snap around, perhaps
violently.
With the smaller steppers, the axis will usually
stall before aggressive acceleration will cause
damage to the machine. However, there is little to
be gained with high acceleration on this machine.
Keeping the slider at the lower middle of the scale
has served well.
Axes as described in some software.
Another reason to exchange the axes is mills, and

thus their controlling software, tend to orient the X
motion as the left to right motion as one looks
straight at the spindle.
So again, when reading the Mach manual for
example, the axes of the machine will not be
rotated 90 degrees from the descriptions.
The velocity is initially set low, and it is increased

incrementally, and by trial and error during the
final tuning.
Another consideration is simply the location of the

machines computer monitor. It is much easier to
operate the machine when the monitor is oriented
with the machines axes.
This way the machine will move in the same
direction as the images on the computer monitor
move.
The axis can be expected to move at a speed that is

approximately the rotations per minute of the
stepper, around 500 rpm, divided by the turns per
inch of the leadscrew.
For example: A 5 turn per inch leadscrew will give
an axis speed of around 100 inches per minute
98
(500 rpm 5 tpi = 100 ipm)

Expressed as inches per second this is
100 ipm 60 seconds per minute = 1.67 ips.
The leadscrew is continually turned by the stepper

to move the axis from end to end.
The stepper is likely to stall somewhere in transit.
When it stalls near the bearing flange end of the
axis, the problem is usually with the placement of
the bearing and flange.
The flange is loosened and allowed to float as the
leadnut is jogged close to the flange. The flange is
then secured.
During machine tuning it is better to set the speed

well below half the expected final speed.
Steppers deliver the most torque at lower speeds.
When tuning the machine this higher power, but
low speed, is useful for pushing the axis through
rough spots while the axis is being aligned. With
the velocity set too high, the axis will frequently
stall, and it will be difficult to find each problem
area.
A slightly misaligned leadnut can cause significant

drag.
Loosen the leadnut on its bracket and jog the axis.
The axis should move well but with considerable
backlash.
Incrementally tighten the leadnuts connecting
screws and nuts, while testing movement by
jogging the axis.
The velocity can be incrementally increased as

problems are addressed.
The final velocity is set by backing off of the speed
at which the axis stalls.
It is better to not push the upper limits of the
velocity in the settings. A stalled stepper will ruin
a job.
An axis may move well until the final tightening of

the leadnuts screws.
A shim, from a piece of paper to a section of
beverage container, placed between the leadnut and
its bracket can be used to align the leadnut.
911 Tuning
The threads of hardware store tee nuts are not

always perpendicular to their flanges, so rotating
the tee nut can often reduce excess drag.
Plastic anti-backlash leadnuts are easier to align.
Sometimes simply loosening and then re-tightening
components can resolve the problem.
The final alignment of the axes is a trial and error

process that consists of repeating the steps that
have already been taken with each axis.
The two primary steps are:
Align the leadscrews with the movement of the
axis. This is set by moving the leadscrews
bearing flanges.
Align the leadnut on the leadscrew. This may
require placing shims between the leadnut and its
bracket, or the bracket and its attachment point.
The dual leadscrew axis is the most challenging to

adjust. One aluminum leadnut bracket can remain
loose in its carriage bolts while the other side is
tuned.
The time required for the final tuning can range

from a few minutes to hours. The job should be
approached systematically to reduce the time.
Again, it is important to work incrementally while

continually testing for drag by jogging the axis.
This is a trial and error process which is easier

when the steppers are powered and can be jogged.
A slightly misaligned stepper can also cause drag

on the Y and Z axes.
When all else fails, loosen everything including the
stepper, the bearing flange, and the leadnut.
99
Then re-tighten the parts by starting with the

stepper, then the flange and leadnut. Jog the axis to
test for drag as each component is tightened.
inserted into the holes, and dowels are inserted into

the springs.
A clip, made of thin metal from beverage cans,
holds the routers wire to the top of the Z axis rails
with one of the cross tie screws.
All parts, including the Y and Z bearing truck

mounting screws, should be tightened during the
tuning process. The X leadscrew flange mounting
screws should be installed, and all flanges should
be secured.
The Z steppers wire is tied with a clip to the top of

the carriage.
Non hardening thread-locker such as Loctite Green

can be applied to the hardwares threads to
prevent vibrations from loosening the parts.
912 Wrap Up
The outrigger bearings on the X rails may bind as
they pass over the stud to pipe connection. The
pipe can bulge where the nut was tightened inside
the pipe.
W ires supported with springs and dowels.
The wires from the steppers should not be allowed

to flex where they enter the steppers.
This bulge can be filed down

by sliding a file along the rail. A
slight bulge can cause a
noticeable hang-up in the
movement of the gantry.
The clips can also be used to tie the wires to the

sides of the end plates. The wires should be
oriented so they do not continually flex at the same
point. Repeated flexing will cause metal fatigue,
and the wires will break.
File bulge.
This is unlikely to be a problem

on the gantrys rails and Z axis since their bearings
do not pass near the stud connection points of their
pipe rails.
Twist ties, zip ties or tape can be used to secure the

wires to the dowel-masts.
At this point of construction, with the machine

virtually finished, it is easy to forgo the wire
attachment. However, a snagged wire can ruin a
stepper or drive; it is not just the wires that are at
risk.
A single speed router can be controlled with a low

cost auxiliary speed control that the router is
plugged into.
This is handier and safer than a variable speed
router, since it is not necessary to reach the router
to change the speed while the machine is running.
There are many ways to secure the wires; the Wire

Protection page of the website shows a number of
options.
On this smaller machine, a short mast with a spring
base is one of the simplest methods of wire
support.
Limit switches are addressed on the websites limit

switch page at Solsylva.com.
The machine is ready to use once its axes move
well and the wires are secure.
Holes can be drilled in the top edges of the end

plates to support the springs. The springs are
100
X 1x4 Bearing Recesses
The centers of the bearing recess holes (darkened) must be 36-1/2 inches apart on the 1x4.
The optional front horizontal 1x4 uses the same layout, but the recesses are replaced with
7/8 inch through-holes.
The 1x4 is 38-1/4 inches long.
101
X Stepper Mounting Holes
The pivot hole is 18 inches from the end of the 1x4 board.
The darkened holes match the holes in the stepper. The slotted holes can be enlarged to allow
the stepper to pivot.
The R1-7/8 value is a rounded dimension. The arc as drawn is the actual dimension.
102
1x4 Front Legs

These templates for the front 1x4 legs are shortened to fit on this page. Cut the wooden blanks to length and
align each end of the templates with each end of the blanks.
Y End Plate, Stepper End

The end plates are made of 1x6 wood; its actual dimensions are 3/4 x 5-1/2 inches.
The end plates are cut to length and drilled.
Drill the bearings recess before drilling its through-hole. Leave at least 1/8 inch of stock for the bearing to abut.
The pilot hole in the tee nuts hole is drilled through the stock to serve as a center hole in the back, to mark the
position for drilling the recess. The recess is around 1/8 inch deep.
The template can be folded on the bottom edge to align the two bottom edge holes for the bottom X bearings.
These two bottom holes are centered in the 1x6; they are 3/8 inch from the edges.
104
Y End Plate, Bearing Flange End

The end plates are made of 1x6 wood; its actual dimensions are 3/4 x 5-1/2 inches.
The end plates are cut to length and drilled.
The template can be folded on the bottom edge to align the two bottom edge holes for the bottom X bearings.
These two bottom holes are centered in the 1x6; they are 3/8 inch from the edges.
105
Z Left Side, Y Leadnut Side

This is cut from 1x4 which has actual dimensions
of 3/4 x 3-1/2 inches.
The height of this side depends on the distance
between the Y bearings on the gantry rails.
See Section 6-3.
The 9-1/4 inch dimension shown will vary on
each machine.
The notch on the edge and the darkened holes
must match the leadnut.
106
Z Right Side, Near Y Stepper

This is cut from 1x4 which has actual
dimensions of 3/4 x 3-1/2 inches.
The height of this side depends on the distance
between the Y bearings on the gantry rails.
See Section 6-3.
The 9-1/4 inch dimension shown will vary on
each machine.
107
Z Top Plate
These Z top and bottom plates are made of 1x4.

The match marks for the back and sides are shaded.
These templates can be folded on the edge to mark the position of the pilot holes for the decking
screws which are driven into the edges of the 1x4s. The holes for these screws are also shaded.
These screws are centered on the edges.
108
Z Bottom Plate
109
Bearing Flanges and Z Leadnut Bracket

The bearing flanges can all be cut from 1/4 or 3/8 inch thick plastic kitchen cutting board.
The Z leadnut bracket will perform better if made of 3/8 inch thick stock.
Z axis bearing flange.

Section 612.
X bearing flange, left end.
Section 52.
X bearing flange, right end.

Section 52.
Y bearing flange.
Section 72.
Z leadnut bracket.
Section 85.
110
Parts cut from small cutting board.
111
CNC Router Plans

Plans for a 13 x 13 Inch
Fixed Gantry Machine
By
David Steele
A CNC table MUST have an easily accessible Emergency Stop button.
The table must be in a safe location where it is inaccessible to children
and unauthorized users; these are not toys, even a small machine can
inflict serious injury. You, the user of these plans, assume all liability
and responsibility for the construction process, and the product you
create.
Do not use these plans if these conditions of use are unacceptable to you.
payment, David Steele grants a licence to use the plans for the purpose
of building a machine for personal use.
Table of Contents
Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Cut Lumber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Drill X Chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Assemble X Chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Bushings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
X Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Install Bushings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Install Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
X Leadnut Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Install X Leadscrew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Gantry Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Gantry Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Gantry Sides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Install Y Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Z Carriage Overview
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Z Carriage Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Z Carriage Back . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Install Screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Install Z Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Y Leadnut Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Install Y Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Template for Z Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Z Stepper Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Spindle Support . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Tension Rods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Cross Tie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Install Z Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Contents Continued
Install Z Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Z Leadnut Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Spindle Supports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Wire Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Axis Names . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Switch X and Y Axis Names . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Software Settings, Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Steps per Revolution, Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Micro-Stepping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Leadscrews . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Starts and Turns per Inch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Determining Steps per Unit (Inch) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Resolution . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Speed (Velocity) and Acceleration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Porter Cable 7301 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Leadscrew to Stepper Coupler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
pushed to its potential. The advantage of a trim

router over a Dremel is it permits the use of a
larger inventory of bits, and longer running times.
Overview
This machine has a cutting area of 13 x 13 x 5
inches, and was designed to be as inexpensive and
easy to build as possible.
The prototypes of this machine used the

HobbyCNC stepper and drive system. The rapids
were faster than could be achieved with the same
steppers and leadscrews on the other tables, since
this machine is so small and light.
The small size permits the use of bushings that ride

on unsupported rails. This system is simple and
requires fewer tools. There are no aluminum parts,
and no metal to bend or tap. All framing
components are made of standard sized lumber cut
to length; therefore, a table-saw is unnecessary.
This machine uses a moving table rather than a

moving gantry; this configuration is frequently
used on small tables because of its simplicity. The
drawback is the entire machine has to be twice as
long as the size of the cutting area, since the
moving table has to travel from end to end under
the gantry.
This machine can be built in hours, not days, and

the only power tools used to build one of the
prototypes were a chop saw and a hand held drill.
On this machine, the table overhangs the X chassis

at the extremes of its movement. With this layout
the machine takes up less storage space, though
clearance does have to be provided when the
machine is in use.
This machine is constructed of standard sized
lumber. The main components are made of a 2x4
and a 1x4 that are cut to length. The table bed is a
15 x 15 inch piece of 3/4 inch stock; this can be
MDF, plywood or plastic.
A prototype that used a low cost 11 x 14 x 1/4 inch
cutting board for the moving table was also made
to demonstrate possible modifications.
C ompleted machine.
Except for the electrical components, the

prototypes were made solely from materials that
were purchased from the local Lowes home center
for less than $150. For further savings, it is
possible to build a lighter duty version of this table
with copper plumbing pipe and fittings, rather than
steel rod and bronze bushings.
The quality of the work, when cutting MDF and
fine grained stock, is comparable to the work
produced by the other Solsylva tables, when they
use All Thread leadscrews. However, this machine
cannot handle heavier loads as well, since it uses
small unsupported rails. Hardwood has to be cut
with a larger number of shallow passes, rather than
a few aggressive ones.
Variation with cutting board table and

gas pipe gantry supports.
All of the axes of the machine are simple, and

easily lend themselves to variations in materials
and form. These plans address the simplest version,
This machine is solid enough to use a trim router,

though the machine will flex before the router is
5
The spindle/router is tied to another section of 1x4

at the bottom.
Drywall screws tie the leadnut blocks to the 1x4
plate.
which uses only wood for the frame, but plastic or

metal could be substituted.
The drawings below show the layout of the wood
for each of the three axes. There is a larger image
on the last page of this manual.
The other components of the table include inch

rods for the rails. The prototypes used cold rolled,
hot rolled and plated steel. They all worked well.
The table is sized to use exactly three 3 foot
sections of inch rod, which are cut to length for
each axis with no waste.
Bushings ride the rails and are held into place with
inch EMT one hole strap.
The rails are secured with screws and plumbing
hanger strap.
The leadscrews are 1/4-20 threaded rod, and the
leadnuts are tee nuts. Threaded rods are also used
to tie the Z axis together, and to partially support
the spindle/router.
W ooden components with rails.
The X axis chassis is made

of two 2x4 side rails
that are held between
1x4 and 2x4 end
plates. These parts are
screwed together with
decking screws.
The plans are sequenced in the order the table is

constructed. Each axis is assembled and operated
with its stepper before the following axis is built.
Therefore, it is recommended to have the steppers
on hand and ready for use.
X C hassis
The gantry assembly is made of 1x4s with

a 2x4 base. One cross member
is directly below the leadscrew;
this adds rigidity, and helps to
deflect dust.
The other cross tie is a 2x4 that
passes under the X chassis.
This 2x4 adds significant
stability to the system.
Y G antry
Everything is tied together
with 1-5/8 inch drywall screws.
The Z axis is
made of sections
of 1x4, with a
section of 2x4
that supports the
Y leadnut.
The stepper is
supported with a
ripped section of
1x4 at the top of
the axis.
This sequencing is not mandatory; the table is

small enough that it can be rolled over for tuning
and final adjustments, but it is much easier to tune
the X axis during construction so the completed
table can be left upright.
Cut Lumber
The machine is dimensioned so only one 2x4x8ft.
and one 1x4x8ft. are used for the main body.
The table can be built primarily from one inch
nominal (3/4 inch actual) stock, but the 2x4s used
for the sides of the X chassis, and for the bottom of
the Y gantry do add rigidity.
The gantry has to be mounted to solid stock to
maintain stability.
Z Front
The next images show the dimensions of each

board. The cumulative measurements starting from
the left are given as well. These assume a blade
width or kerf of 1/8 inch.
Z Back
D imensions of parts from 1x4. T he stocks actual dimensions are 3/4 x 3-1/2 inches.
D imensions of parts cut from 2x4. T he stocks actual dimensions are 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 inches.
The boards need to be as straight as possible. The

type of wood is not too important. The very soft
white wood will work, but it does tear easily.
By starting from the left, and marking the

cumulative measurements on the board, the pieces
can all be marked and then cut without having to
keep repeating the measure-one and cut-one cycle.
The 2x4x8' can also be a 2x4x93 which is a

standard precut stud in some regions. These studs
can sometimes be straighter and less expensive
than a standard 2x4x8'.
The actual dimensions of a 2x4 are 1-1/2 x 3-1/2
inches; a 1x4 is 3/4 x 3-1/2 inches.
It does not matter if the saw blade is slightly wider

or narrower than 1/8 inch; however, for ease of
construction, it is important for the cuts to be
square.
These cross cuts can be sawn for free, or for a
modest fee, at many lumber yards if a chop, miter
or arm saw is unavailable in the home shop.
Note that MDF flexes more than grained boards; it

has a clean smooth surface, but when ripped to
narrow widths it is more flexible than lumber.
Of course a hand saw will work too, but it is

challenging to saw clean square cuts by hand.
MDF is not recommended as a replacement for the

2x4 and 1x4 in this table when the dimensions and
layout in these plans are used. To maintain stability
different bracing would be necessary.
The photos show a SPF (spruce pine fir) 2x4, and

a pressure treated southern yellow pine 1x4.
The treated wood was used only because the
lumber yards selection of SPF 1x4 was of poor
quality at the time.
Measure and cut the two boards at this time.
Drill X Chassis
Work on the X axis can begin once the lumber is
cut to length.
Mark and drill the holes as shown in the drawings
on the following page.
It is easier to mark the hole positions before the
corners of the end plates are removed. The top
Lumber cut to length.
Front 1x4 of X axis
Back 2x4 of X axis
corners of the end plates do not have to be cut; they

were cut on one of the prototypes for appearance,
and to allow more clearance for C-clamps that hold
the stock to the table.
The holes for the NEMA 23 steppers mounting

screws are in a bolt circle that is 2-5/8 inches in
diameter.
This circle is shown in the dimensioned drawing for
reference. However, this yields somewhat awkward
dimensions for the stepper holes. It is easier to drill
the 1/4 inch pilot hole for the steppers shaft, and
to place the stepper into the hole, and then use the
stepper body itself to mark the hole positions.
There is still a inch of clearance between the

table and the X end plates with the corners in
place, so there is room for small clamps without
the corners being clipped.
Base made of 2x4 and 1x4.
The curved patterns cut into the gantry sides and

the bottom of the end plates, as shown on the cover
page, were cut for appearance only.
These were freehanded with a jig saw and
bandsaw. One sides pattern was cut, and its scrap
was used as a template for its matching side.
U se stepper to mark holes in 1x4.
Align the steppers holes with the vertical line at 81/4 inch, and the horizontal line at 1-1/8 inch, and
mark the holes locations. Remove the stepper and
drill the holes.
Drilling the other leadscrew hole in the 2x4 end

plate to a larger size will allow the leadscrew to
whip, and cause an annoying rattle as the screw
turns.
The stepper is turned 45 degrees so two opposite

holes can be screwed to the end plate.
This will hold the stepper true, and will prevent the
coupler between the leadscrew and stepper from
flexing as the leadscrew turns.
The 1-1/2 inch hole can be drilled or cut after the

steppers mounting holes have been drilled.
This large hole gives clearance around the
steppers shaft for hose clamps that tie the
leadscrew to the stepper.
The top hole of the stepper extends beyond the top

edge of the end plate board. The moving table
passes over the stepper, so the stepper cannot be
installed any higher.
The hole can

either be drilled
with a hole saw,
or cut and
chiseled as
shown. The hole
does not have to
be clean to serve
its purpose.
The stepper can be rotated to an angle other than

45 degrees so the mounting holes are in a different
position. To keep things simple, and to allow the 11/2 inch hole to be coarsely removed, as shown in
the right column, the 45 degree positioning was
used.
H ole for stepper can be cut and

chiseled rather than drilled.
The holes near the ends of the end plates are drilled
to 3/32 inch, and serve as pilot holes for the screws
that tie the 2x4 sides to the end plates.
The holes for the steppers mounting screws are

drilled oversized to 1/4 inch.
All 1/4 inch holes are shaded in the dimensioned
drawings on the previous page.
The oversized holes allow for alignment of the
leadscrew and stepper since the other end of the
leadscrew cannot be adjusted.
These holes will be used as guides to drill the pilot

holes in the ends of the 2x4 side pieces.
They are then enlarged and countersunk for the 21/2 inch decking screws that tie the end plates to
the sides.
H oles in top of back 2x4, back view.
H oles in top of front 1x4
Four 3/32 inch holes are drilled into the top edges
of the each of the end plates; these accept 1 inch
drywall screws that tie the rails into place. See
drawings on the bottom of the previous page.
The pilot holes in the top edge of the back 2x4 end
plate should be closest to the inside of the table.
(Circled in photo.)
The metal rails will overlap the end plates by 3/4
inch, and the clamps will not cover the rails if the
2x4 end plate is installed backwards.
Drill all of the holes in the end plates now.
The ends of the end plates are flush with the sides
of the side 2x4s.
The 2x4 sides do not have any holes drilled into

them at this time. They are simply lumber cut to
length.
It is important for the cuts to be square since their
ends hold the machine square. They were cut when
the 2x4 was sawn into sections.
Use the pilot holes in the faces of the end plates to

position the pilot holes in the ends of the side 2x4s;
use a 3/32 inch bit. Trying to drive the screws into
the ends of the 2x4s without pilot holes will pull
the side boards out of alignment; drilling these
pilots is worth the effort.
Enlarge and countersink the holes in the end plate
for the decking screws shafts and heads; check to
be sure there is clearance for a 2x4 underneath the
side 2x4s before driving the screws into position.
Finish washers under the heads, or another type of
screw can be used for this connection.
Complete work on one end of the table at a time to
prevent mismatching the pilots from their
corresponding holes.
2x4 sides of X chassis; two required.
Assemble X Chassis
The X axis is held together with 2-1/2 inch long
decking screws or the equivalent. Glue is not
mandatory, but it does help to hold parts together
over time.
Work on a flat surface to help ensure that the table
will be level.
Drill and enlarge the holes, and screw the parts

together now.
Rest the side boards on pieces of 2x4 while drilling

and screwing the sides to the end plates. Photo
below.
Bushings
The bushings are inch ID (Inside Diameter) and
11/16 inch OD by 1-1/8 inch long; these were used
because they were what Lowes sold.
A 2x4 for the gantry will be tied underneath these

two side boards later, so this bottom clearance is
important.
Different lengths will also work. The 1-1/8

bushings were cut in half to check the
performance of the table with shorter
bushings.
Sides temporarily supported with 2x4s.

N ote position of circled pilot holes for rail tie-down straps.
10
Bushing cut in half. Short

bushings are easier to align but
allow more play.
The shorter bushings allowed more play but were

easier to align.
The two Y axis rods are 18 inches each, which are

made by cutting a 36 inch rod in half.
Mcmaster.com sells a variety of sizes at prices

below those of Lowes, but this requires mail order.
They also sell matching rails of higher quality.
These sizes, 12, 18, and 24 inches, are also

common sizes for higher quality metal, and chrome
plated rods, so they can easily be upgraded.
It is the opinion here that unsupported rails with
bronze bushings on a wooden machine do not
justify the cost of higher quality rails. But there are
always exceptions where the cost may be
warranted.
Bushings with an OD
of 5/8 inch can also
be used, but they will
not fit tightly into the
inch EMT straps,
which are used to
support them.
Right photo.
The rails that were locally available included cold

rolled steel, hot rolled steel, and plated steel.
Bushing held in EMT strap
The cold rolled steel was the closest to 0.5 inch in

diameter over its entire length, but it still varied,
undersized, by as much as 0.004 inch.
This is addressed by sliding the bushings into

inch copper pipe couplers, photo below.
The hot rolled steel varied undersized and oversized

by 0.005 from the nominal 0.5 inch, so it had to be
filed and sanded for the bushings to ride smoothly.
This was done by turning the rod with a drill while
sanding it with fine grit paper.
The plated rail was consistently undersized by
0.004 inch. This consistent but undersized diameter
made the plated rail the easiest to adjust so the
bushings would ride with a minimum of drag;
however, there was more play in the system.
5/8 inch bushing fits in copper coupler
The couplers center stop notches are removed with

a file. Lowes inventory was limited so both sizes
of bushings were purchased to give the eleven
bushings necessary for this table.
A chrome plated rail was tested, and its diameter

was within 0.001 of the 0.5 inch diameter. It was
undoubtedly a better product, which had better
accuracy and less drag, but it was far more costly.
Four bushings are used for the X axis, three for the
Y, and four for the Z.
It is important to note that the bushings inside

diameter is near 0.504 inch, so even the best rail
and bushing system will still have some play.
Rails
The rails are inch steel rod. Different types of
rod were used in the prototypes, and they all
performed similarly.
Another option, which worked well enough for

experimenting, used inch copper pipe as the
rails, with inch copper couplings as the
bushings.
The rods are most easily found in 3 foot lengths. A

total of three 3 foot rods are needed.
The two rails for the X axis are cut to 24 inches,
and the 12 inch remainders are used for the Z axis.
The couplers center stop notches were removed

with a rat-tail file.
11
There was more

play in the
system, but when
used with a
Dremel, the
quality of work
was fair.
X Table
The table for the X axis is made of MDF, plywood
or plastic.
It can also be a cutting board when sawing this
slab is a problem. Photo below.
The copper rails

are soft and
C opper coupling as bushing on
flexible, and can
copper water pipe.
only carry a light
load. Therefore, grained wood or deep cuts
yielded worse results.
The photo below shows an example of the copper
railed machines work.
The piece was cut in one pass with a vee bit in a
Dremel. The work is four inches wide. The play
and flex allowed chatter, which caused the ridges in
the vee cut.
C utting board used as table.
This board is cut to 15 x 15 inches, which leaves

clearance for clamps between the gantry sides, and
gives a one inch perimeter around the 13 x 13
cutting area.
The size of the board can be different than drawn.
However, it is important for the holes for the EMT
clamps to be spaced so the rails will align with the
rail-clamp holes that were drilled into the tops of
the end plates.
The bushings are held into place with single hole
inch EMT straps. Photo below.
C ut in M D F with copper bushings and rails. T he chatter marks
are most obvious where circled.
The copper pipe and fitting system worked well

enough to be used as an introductory tool or
teaching aid, and the cost was minimal.
Cut the rails to length now. There are two each at
24, 18 and 12 inches.
The 12 inch rods are the remainder from the 24
inch rods when 36 inch stock is used.
File or sand as needed, so the bushings ride
smoothly over the entire length of the rods.
Bushing held to table with EMT strap

and machine screw.
12
The distance between the center of the straps hole,

and the center of the bushing is around 7/8 inch.
The large hole in the strap allows for adjustment.
The holes are drilled to 9/64 inch; they will hold 832 x 1-1/4 inch flat head machine screws.
The holes in the table board will have to be altered

when straps with a measure that is different from
the 7/8 inch are used.
To address this difference, place the rails with
bushings and straps on the table, and use the 6 inch
block, which was cut for the Z axis, as a spacer.
Right photo.
Mark where the EMT strap holes align with the
table and drill the holes.
6 inch wood block used as positioning spacer.
T ee nuts are near the edges of the board.
T able Bed Slab
13
The machine screws are tightly threaded into these

small holes. This will make it much easier to adjust
the bushings, since the machine screws will not
freewheel as their nuts are tightened against the
EMT straps.
Install Bushings
Loosely attach the EMT straps with bushings to
the table with nuts and washers. Slide the 24 inch
rails through the bushings so the bushings are
oriented toward each other, as shown below.
The four 5/16 inch holes are optional; they hold

1/4-20 tee nuts that are part of a simple clamping
system, which is shown on the web site on the
Hold Downs page.
Holes for tee nuts can be drilled anywhere on the
table that does not interfere with the bushings or
rails.
It is likely that it will be convenient to install more
tee nuts once the table is in use. Tee nuts can be
seen in the previous and right photo.
The two 9/64 holes that are 5 inches from the end
of the table board are for drywall screws that will
tie the leadnut block to the table.
Position rails with wood block and combo square.
Position one rod so it is 4 inches from the side of

the table. A combination square makes this easy.
The 9/64 inch holes have to be deeply countersunk

into the top of the table so the router bits will not
hit the heads of the screws when the table is in use.
Photo below.
Adjust both ends of the rod so it is parallel with the

edge of the table, and tighten its EMT clamps to
the table.
The rod should slide smoothly through the
tightened bushings.
If it drags, check that the bushings are in line. The
slightest offset will cause binding.
The bushings can be adjusted while leaving the
nuts tight, by twisting the EMT strap and bushing
with pliers.
Use the 6 inch long 1x4 block that was cut
previously; abut it to the installed rail as shown in
the photo, and press the remaining rail against it.
Do this for both ends of the rod, and tighten its
bushings into place.
Both rods should slide smoothly through their
bushings at this time.
X table top with screws in deeply countersunk holes.
Cut and drill this board now.

Drive four 8-32 x 1-1/4 inch flat head machine
screws into the four 9/64 inch holes that are 3-3/8
inches from the edges of the board.
14
Cut and trim the strap now, and insert 1 inch

drywall screws with #8 or #10 washers into the
straps end holes.
Insert the screws with straps and washers into the
pilot holes that were drilled in the top of the end
plates, as shown in the photo on the left and below.
Install Rails on X Chassis

The rods are held onto the X chassis with screws,
washers and plumbing strap. Image below.
Flip the table

board, with the
rails and bushings
installed, so it is
right side up.
Turn it so its holes
for the leadnut
block are away
R ail tightened into place. R ails
from the stepper
are flush with edge of 1x4.
end of the X
chassis, and put the
ends of the rails under the straps.
Screws with washers and strap that hold rail.
The strap is cut into sections that are around 1-1/2

inches long.
The strap is cut between every third hole; the holes
are usually inch apart.
It does not matter whether the end holes are large
or small. The corners can be snipped to knock off
the sharp edges.
The rails should be flush with the front of the 1x4

end plate; they will only extend half way over the
top edge of the back 2x4 end plate.
Center one rail under its clamp and incrementally
tighten the clamps screws into place. Alternate
between screws while tightening to prevent one
screw from pressing the rail sideways.
The material is soft and cuts easily; an old pair of

scissors will work when metal shears are
unavailable.
Measure the distance the rail is from the side of the

table, photo below, and transfer this measurement
to the back end of the same rail, and tighten the
second clamp into place.
Again, it is important to tighten incrementally while
taking turns between the two screws.
Plumbing strap cut with shears or scissors.
Eight of these strap pieces are needed, that is four

for the X and four for the Y axes; the Z rails are
held into place differently.
Measure rails distance from edge of table.
15
Tighten the other rails two strap-clamps into place

taking care to not offset the rail.
Once the clamps are in place, the table should
move smoothly from end to end of the X chassis.
Unfortunately, this may not be the case.
First, use the 6 inch long 1x4 block to check that
the rails are parallel. Adjust the rails under the
clamps as needed, and again try to slide the table
from end to end.
A shim between a bushing and the table board

may be required.
If the movement is still stiff, flip the entire table

and chassis upside down, and rest the top of the
table on the work surface. Photo below.
Each bushing should be tightened into place when

the table is at the end of its travel, and the bushing
is next to an end plate. This will align the bushing
with a firmly positioned part of the rail.
With the table board stationary, slide the chassis

from end to end.
Loosen one bushing to check if it makes a
difference. If not, work around to each bushing to
find the problem.
The binding can be removed by working from

bushing to bushing; usually it is only one bushing
that causes the problem.
Sometimes simply loosening and re-tightening one
or all of the bushings will remove the extra drag.
When the table slides smoothly on the rails, the
leadscrew assembly can be installed.
Install the table onto the X chassis and adjust it so
it moves without drag at this time.
Leadnut Assembly
The leadscrew system consists of a 1/4-20 x 24-1/2
inch long threaded rod with a tee nut that serves as
the leadnut.
Slide the chassis on the table; loosen each bushing to find the
one that binds.
N ote that the holes (circled) for the leadnut block are toward the
back of the table.
Potential problems include the table board not

being perfectly flat. This can be remedied by
placing a piece of thin metal or plastic (drink
can or milk jug, etc.) underneath one of the
bushings to shim it into line. Above right photo.
Another problem may be that the rails are not
straight.
Turn the bent rail(s) so the bend is bowed toward
the table top.
With this orientation, the distance between the rails
will not be affected by the bowing.
Leadnut block is attached to the bottom of the

table.
16
The leadnut is attached to a section of 2x4 that is

screwed to the bottom of the moving table.
Two 8-32 x 2 inch machine screws are driven

through the two 9/64 inch holes in the block. These
holes are small so the screws will not freewheel.
The 4 inch long section of 2x4 that supports the

leadnut was cut earlier.
It is now cut parallel with the grain to 2-1/4 inches
high. This is to allow clearance for the gantrys
2x4 cross brace. This brace will be installed later.
The tee nut that serves

as the leadnut can be
tined (pronged) or tineless.
Should smooth flanged
tee nuts be unavailable,
the tines can be bent or
broken so the tee nut
will lie flat against the
block.
The position of the hole in this leadnut block is

determined by aligning the 2x4 block against the
end of the X axis where the leadscrew will pass
through the end plate. Image below.
T ines on tee nut bent flat

or removed.
File any rough edges off of the tee nut. The nut has
to slide smoothly over the surface of the 2x4 for
adjustment.
Mark position of leadscrew on block.
This is marked,
and the line is
extended to the
center of the
block where the
holes are drilled.
Right image.
T ee nut held into place with screws and washers.

Photo is for reference; the tee nut cannot be
installed at this time.
Washers of varying sizes from #8 to 1/4 inch, and

nuts on the machine screws, clamp the tee nut into
place.
A large washer can be placed over the entire tee nut
to help hold it. This washer is optional, but can
make adjustment easier when the tee nut is not
centered between the two machine screws.
H oles in block are in line

with leadscrew mark.
D imensions on the left side of the drawing for the vertical

placement of the holes are approximate.
T ee nut projecting through

optional large washer.
17
The inch hole in the wooden block allows the

position of the tee nut to be adjusted.
The tee nut can be oriented with its shaft pointing
into or out of the block.
Note: The stepper can be run and tuned with no

load before being attached to the leadscrew.
Adjusting the settings in the controlling software
can be tedious, and any extra load on the stepper
will alter performance.
Cut and drill this block at this time.

Drive the machine screws into it, and bend or
remove the tee nuts tines. The leadscrew has to be
installed before the tee nut can be installed and
adjusted.
The following is done with the table upside down.

The leadscrew is passed through the hole for the
stepper in the end plate, and the tee nut is threaded
onto it.
The leadscrew is then passed through the 2x4
leadnut support block with the blocks machine
screws pointing toward the tee nut, as shown in the
image in the left column.
Two 1/4-20 nuts are threaded onto the leadscrew,
then two washers.
The leadscrew is passed through the X axis 2x4
end plate, and two more washers and nuts are
installed. These nuts are circled in the image below.
Leadnut clamped into place.
Install X Leadscrew
The leadscrew is supported by the 1/4 inch hole in
the back 2x4 end plate, and by the stepper.
It is attached to the stepper with a 1 inch section of
1/4 inch ID automotive fuel line or similar. Hose
clamps tighten the hose onto the threaded rod and
stepper shaft. Image below.
T he nuts and washers that sandwich the X end plate are
circled.
A line that marks the position of the holes for the leadnut
blocks support screws on the table top is circled below the
block.
The nuts and washers will be abutted to the end of

the axis to help reduce the backlash that results
from the stretching of the hose.
These nuts are adjusted later; leave them loose for
now.
H ose with hose clamps on stepper. See page 44 for

other options.
18
Install the hose onto the stepper shaft so the shaft

is half way into the hose.
Clamp the hose into place with a hose clamp.
Put the other clamp on the hose but leave it loose.
Mark the holes in the 15 x 15 inch moving table

that are for the leadnut support blocks mounting
screws. See photo in right column on page 18.
Position the leadnut block over the holes in the
moving table so the leadscrew passes through the
center of the inch hole in the block.
Attach the stepper to the end plate with three 8-32

x 1-1/4 inch machine screws. Use washers with the
nuts.
Take care to center the stepper in its hole.
Slide the entire machine to the edge of the work

surface so the mounting holes in the moving table
can be reached with a drill, photo below, and drill
3/32 inch pilot holes into the 2x4 block up through
the moving tables existing pilot holes.
Note. The leadnut block is mounted at the far end

of the moving table to help reduce any loading that
may result from the stepper being slightly out of
alignment.
However, any offset can contribute to binding of
the leadnut. Binding will increase drag and reduce
the tables speed.
After the stepper is installed, insert the leadscrew
into the hose, and clamp it into place. The
leadscrew and steppers shaft should touch. The
hose clamps should be near each other to help
prevent the hose from twisting between them.
W ith the table hanging over side of the workbench, drill pilot holes into the leadnuts 2x4 block
through the existing holes in the table.
Drive 1-5/8 inch drywall screws into the holes to

tighten the block into place.
Turn the tee nut on the leadscrew so the tee nut
abuts the wooden block.
Stepper m ounted to X chassis, viewed from bottom of table.
Incrementally tighten the tee nut into place with

nuts and washers on the wooden blocks machine
screws.
The leadscrew will now turn when the stepper is

turned.
The leadscrew should not wobble; adjust the hose
and clamp to remove any offset.
This can be challenging when the stepper has a flat
for a set-screw on its shaft.
Turn the stepper and leadscrew while tightening the

nuts to assure the tee nut is positioned in line with
the leadscrew.
A slight wobble will usually not be a problem, but

the vibrations caused by being out of balance can
telegraph through to the work.
Turn on the stepper, and with the table remaining

upside down on the workbench, jog the axis. The X
table will remain stationary and the chassis will
move.
19
Adjusting the tee nut so the table jogs without

stalling can be challenging.
Frequently the motion will be fine until the tee nut
is tightened into its final position. The last twist of
the nuts can offset the tee nut and cause binding.
Gantry Overview
The gantry is made of three
sections of 1x4 and one piece
of 2x4.
The parts are tied together
with decking and drywall
screws.
This adjustment is a trial and error process.

Check that the tee nut is not being held out of true
by the sides of the inch hole in the 2x4 block, or
by the machine screws.
Binding can also be caused by the 2x4 block not
being perfectly in line with the direction of travel.
The rails are attached to the G antry made of 1x4 with

a 2x4 base.
edges of the two upright 1x4s
using the same screw and strap method that was
used to tie the X rails to the chassis.
Simply loosening and re-tightening the nuts can

sometimes solve an unseen offset.
Occasionally it is necessary to flip the tee nut over
so it points in the opposite direction.
Tee nuts heads are not always square with their
threads, so rotating the tee nut may help with
alignment.
In this shop some leadscrews and nuts have been
tuned on the first try, and others have taken a half
hour even though there was no obvious reason for
the problem.
Work incrementally, and keep the stepper speeds
below 30 ipm while adjusting the components. The
stepper speed can be increased when the table
moves smoothly.
The nuts that
sandwich the end
plate can be
tightened after
the leadnut has
been secured.
The washers
should abut the
end plate, but
should not cause T ighten the nuts against each other.
U se a backer wrench to keep from
any drag on
loading up the leadscrew.
the leadscrew.
Use a second backing wrench, photo above, while
tightening the nuts into place to keep from placing
a load on the leadscrew.
Work on the gantry can begin once the X axis is
aligned and moves well.
G antry attached to X axis. Arrows show 3 bushings.
The leadscrew and stepper system are similar to the

X axiss system, but the stepper is held to the
gantry with long machine screws to allow easier
access to the coupler.
This method also eliminates the need to remove a
large section of wood from the supporting 1x4.
The gantrys inside measure is 16-1/2 inches,
which allows clearance around the table for clamps
or larger stock. This distance uses 18 inch rails that
are made by cutting a standard 36 inch rod in half.
The gantry can be built quickly, the tuning is done
after the Z carriage is installed.
20
Align the 2x4 so it is 5-1/4

inches from the X 2x4 end,
and use the holes that were
just drilled in this 2x4 as
guides to drill matching 3/32
inch pilot holes into the
bottom of the X chassis
sides.
Gantry Bottom
This 2x4 cross brace serves to anchor the sides of
the gantry, and it adds significant rigidity to the
system.
Pilot holes are drilled into this 2x4, and it is
attached to the bottom of the X chassis with 2-1/2
inch decking screws.
Position of gantry on X chassis, X stepper would be on left.
Countersink the holes for the heads of the 2-1/2

inch decking screws, and screw the 2x4 into place.
The X axis can now be turned upright.
Gantry Sides
The sides of the gantry
are made of the 1x4s
that were cut to 19
inches.
They are tied together
at the base with the 2x4
in the previous section.
2x4 cross brace screwed to bottom of X chassis.
This board is positioned so its back is 5-1/4 inches

from the back end of the X chassis. See drawing on
right and above photo.
This placement will position the router-spindle near
the center of the table so the full 13 inches of travel
can be utilized.
A 1x4 x 16-1/2 inches

G antry 1x4s
ties the tops together.
Right image. This cross
member is directly under the leadscrew. It deflects
dust, and counters the leadscrew loads that are
placed on the sides of the machine.
Drill the 11/64 inch pilots into the 2x4 at this time.
Image below. The holes are placed so they will not
interfere with the screws that will later tie the sides
of the gantry to the machine.
G antry 2x4
21
Holes are drilled into the sides of the 1x4s, as

shown in the drawings below, and the pieces are
screwed together with 1-5/8 inch drywall screws.
The three stepper mounting holes are the three

nearest the inch hole.
The holes in the narrow face of both of the boards
are 3/32 inch; these are for the rails support
clamps.
The pilot holes are used as guides for their

matching holes in the parts to which the
components are attached.
The inch leadscrew hole may tear through the

edge of the board, this is not a problem. Clean the
torn edges with a knife and sandpaper.
All holes in the sides of the boards, with the

exception of the leadscrew holes, are 3/16 inch.
All holes, except the three that hold the steppers
mounting screws, are countersunk for the heads of
the drywall screws.
The dashed lines across the width of the boards

mark the location of the horizontal cross member,
which is 7-1/8 inch from the tops of the side
boards.
H oles for rail clamps in

both sides of gantry.
G antry, leadscrew side.
22
G antry, stepper side.
The top rail only uses one bushing because an

extra bushing does not significantly increase
stability, and its use makes alignment more
difficult.
Use a square to check that the sides are square with

the X chassis and table top. Be sure the leadscrew
and rail support holes face the center of the X axis.
Rest the blade of the combination square on the

table bed, as shown below, and use the squares
body to support the bottom rail. The rail is centered
between the two clamp screw holes in the 1x4.
Install the clamp on this side.
Square gantry with X axis. Screw the parts together with

1-5/8 inch drywall screws.
Note. The stepper side of the gantry, the side with

the inch leadnut hole, can be on either side of the
X axis.
In the drawings and photos of the prototypes, it is
on the left side as viewed from the front of the
table.
The position of the final working place of the table
may determine which side is more convenient for
the stepper to be located.
Factors to consider include the run of the wires to
the drives, and the vulnerability of the stepper from
being bumped by shop traffic.
U se com bo square to m ake rail

parallel to the table bed. Bushings must be on rails.
Mark, drill and assemble these parts now.
With the square left at the same setting, use it to

align the rails other end, and tighten it into place.
Install Y Rails
Tighten the screws incrementally to prevent the rail

from being pulled out of alignment.
The rails are tied to the uprights the same way as

the X rails were mounted.
The top rail is put into its clamps, but is left loose.
It will be secured after the Z carriage is attached to
the bushings.
Bushings are slid onto the rails before they are tied
to the 1x4s. There are two bushings on the bottom
rail and one on the top.
Once the rails are installed, work can begin on the

Z carriage.
23
The photos below are for reference only. They

show the completed unit, but it has to be on the
rails before it can be assembled.
Z Carriage Overview
The Z carriage is simply the 6 inch 1x4 slab, which
was cut earlier, with bushings and leadnuts tied to
both sides.
The bushings are attached with EMT straps as was
done on the X table.
Drywall screws fasten the leadnut blocks into
place. The leadnut system is the same as the one
used on the X axis.
The front of the Z axis carries the rails for the Z
movement. The rails slide in the four bushings that
are tied into place with the inch EMT strap.
Front of Z axis.
Back of Z axis, with adjustable

pivot screws.
The bushings are tightened against the heads and

ends of screws, rather than resting directly on the
1x4.
These screws act as pivots, which make aligning
the bushings and rails much easier.
The pivot screws for the top front bushings can be
seen projecting out of the back of the Z axis in the
above image. These two screws can be turned to
adjust the bushings distance from the 1x4 plate.
C ompleted Z axis.
24
Z Carriage Front
The front of the Z axis 1x4 plate is drilled as
shown below.
Most of the holes pass completely through the
board. However, for clarity, they are only drawn on
the side to which they relate. Therefore, the holes
are laid out and drilled from both the front and
back of this board.
Z front with screws. T hese will be

installed later. D FB = D rilled from Back.
The 3/16 inch holes are darkly shaded in the left

drawing, and are for drywall screws that hold the
Y leadnut block.
These holes are
countersunk on the
front of this plate.
See photos.
The 3/32 inch holes
are unshaded, and
are pilots for short
wood screws.
These holes do not
need to go all of the
way through the
plate.
Front side of Z plate. C SF = C ountersink on Front

C SB = Countersink on Back.
All of the darkly and lightly shaded holes are

drilled completely through the plate.
Z front with bushings. T he

bushings are shown for
reference; they are not installed at
this time.
To keep from losing

position, it is easier
to drill all of the
holes on this side first, and then countersink them
before drilling the holes from the back side. (Next
section)
The 9/64 inch holes will receive flat head 8-32 x 11/4 inch machine screws; the two adjustment
screws can be round head.
The four 9/64 inch holes that are 1-1/8 inch from
the edges of the plate, are countersunk on the back
of this plate. The tails of their screws extend
through the face of the plate to hold the EMT
straps. See photos in right column.
Drill and countersink these holes now. The four

9/64 inch holes that are 1-1/8 inch from the edges
are countersunk on the back.
25
Z Carriage Back
The process for drilling the back is the same as the
front.
Z back with screws.
Z back with bushings.

Bushings cannot be installed at
this time.
Install Screws
The screws are driven into the plate as shown in
the photos in the previous sections.
The seven screws that hold the EMT straps are 832 x 1-1/4 inch flat head machine screws.
These screws are driven into the countersunk holes
so their heads are flush with the plate.
Their tails extend through the other side of the
plate.
They are threaded tightly into the 9/64 inch holes
so they will not freewheel as their bushings are
adjusted. Nuts and washers hold the EMT straps
onto the tails.
Back of Z plate
The 9/64 inch holes are shaded, and will have flat
head 8-32 screws tightened into them. They have to
be countersunk on the front side of the plate.
All of the
bushings rest
on pivots.
Right image.
The 3/32 inch holes are for small wood screws as

are used on the bottom front of the plate.
Small wood
screws serve as
the pivots for the
three back
bushings and
the two front
bottom bushings.
Drill and countersink the holes now.
26
Z back top pivot screw. T his is

shown for reference; the bushing
has to be on the rail when it is
installed.
These wood screws are driven so their heads extend

1/16 to 1/8 inch from the plate.
Press EMT straps onto the bushings so the

bushings will slide easily when the straps are
oriented as shown in the previous photo.
They should all be set to the same height. These

screws were the ones that came in the blister pack
with the angle brackets that will support the Z
cross tie.
Any small screws
will work whether
round or flat
head.
The two front top
bushings use 832 x 1-1/4 inch
machine screws
for the pivots.
Right photo.
Slide the top rails bushing to a far end of the

gantry so it is out of the way.
Attach the bottom two bushings to the Z plate with
nuts and washers. Check that the Z plate is plumb
with the gantry.
This can be done by eyeing the gap between the Z
plate and the gantrys 1x4 sides.
Absolute plumb is not critical, the Z axis vertical
travel can be adjusted later with the front bushings.
Incrementally tighten the nuts against the EMT
strap while sliding the axis back and forth on the
bottom rail.
It should slide smoothly when the nuts are
Z front top adjustment screw abuts

back of bushing.
These screws can

be flat or round head. The screws are driven
through the plate so their tails press against the
bottom of the bushings.
The rails that slide through these front bushings
will bind if out of alignment, and these machine
screws permit fine tuning.
The slightest offset will cause binding; the

bushings can be rocked on the pivot screws heads
to achieve alignment. It may be necessary to use a
pair of pliers to twist the bushings into a position
where they will ride well.
Drive the wood screws and machine screws into the

plate at this time.
The drywall screws for the leadnut block, as well
as the bushings and EMT straps, will be installed
later.
Install Z Plate
The Z plate is ready
to be attached to the
bushings that are
already on the rails.
Slide the bushings
from end to end on
the rails. It may be
necessary to rotate
them to a position
that offers the
smoothest motion.
Back view of Z attached to rails.
EM T straps on bushings.
Front view.
27
Occasionally a strap will have to be slightly bent to

allow alignment.
It may be necessary to alter the height of the pivot
screw(s) or to place washer(s) between the Z plate
and the EMT strap to achieve smooth action.
Y Leadnut Assembly
The leadnut system on this axis is the same as is
used on the X axis. A block cut from a 2x4
supports a tee nut and clamping screws.
Working incrementally will show where the

misalignment exists.
A 3 inch long
section of 2x4 has
already been cut.
Cut this block
parallel with the
grain to 1-3/4
inches wide.
After the bottom two bushings are in place and

move well, the top bushing and rail are tightened
into place.
Note. To make alignment easier, only one bushing
is used on the top. A fourth bushing here does not
add enough stability to justify the difficulty that
aligning it entails.
Mark and drill the

holes as shown in
the drawing
below.
The top bushing is used to align the top rail.

Slide the Z plate to one end of the rails, and tighten
the top bushing into place while the rail is centered
between the two rail strap screws.
Drive two 8-32 x

Leadnut support block cut from
2 inch machine
2x4. Z plate is attached on the right
screws through
side.
the 9/64 inch
holes so their threads protrude through the block.
Above photo.
The rail does not have to be exactly centered

between the drywall screws, but it is important that
there is adjustment room for later fine tuning.
Tighten the rail into place at this end.
After the bushing and rail are tightened into place,
slide the Z plate to the other end of the gantry, and
tighten the other end of the rail into position.
The top rail should now be parallel with the bottom
rail.
Make sure the rails are straight. If bent, rotate
them so the bends run parallel to each other as was
done on the X axis.
Slide the Z plate from end to end and work out any
misalignment by adjusting both the top rails
support screws and the top bushings support nut.
This is an incremental process that may require
multiple end to end trips and adjustments to
achieve smooth action.
The leadnut components, next section, can be
installed when the axis rides with a minimum of
drag.
Y leadnut support block.

Z plate will be attached on the right.
28
Cut a 1/4-20 threaded rod to 20 inches long and

slide it through one of the leadscrew holes in the
sides of the gantry.
Use one of the Z plates drywall screw holes as a

guide, and drill a 3/32 inch hole into the block
while holding it in this position. Photo below.
Insert it through the block with the block positioned

as shown in the photo below.
Then slide the threaded rod through the hole in the
other side of the gantry.
D rilling pilot hole into block

through hole in Z plate.
Tighten a 1-5/8 inch drywall screw into the block

to hold it to the Z plate.
Check that the block is properly aligned, and drill
the second pilot hole. Tighten a drywall screw into
the hole.
Block with rod centered in hole.
Once the block is secure, remove the threaded rod

from the block, and screw a tee nut onto the rod.
The tee nut is on the side of the block with the
machine screws threads.
Position the block so the leadscrew is centered in

the blocks inch hole when the leadscrew is
centered in the gantrys inch hole.
The block should be centered width-ways on the
back of the Z plate. Photo below.
Slide the rod

through the block
and twist two nuts
and washers onto
it. Right photo.
Insert the rod
through the 1/4
inch hole in the
side of the gantry
and install two
more washers and
nuts. The nuts are
left loose at this
time.
N uts and washers
sandwich the 1x4.
The stepper has to

be installed before
the leadnut can be adjusted. This is the next step.
Block is centered on 1x4.
29
The end nuts are threaded onto the screws so they

are flush with the ends of the screws.
Y Stepper Installation
The nuts on the other side of the 1x4 are tightened

against the 1x4. Then the nuts abutting the
steppers face are tightened against the stepper.
Before the stepper is installed, a 1/4 inch ID hose

is attached to its shaft.
The hose is 1 inch long and is held into place with
hose clamps, as was done for the X axis.
The leadscrew is inserted in the hose coupler and

clamped into place.
Slide the hose onto the stepper so inch remains

open, and clamp it to the shaft.
Place the second clamp on the hose, but leave it
loose.
The leadnut can now be adjusted into position. This

is the same trial and error process that was done
with the X axis.
The stepper is held to the side of the gantry with

three 10-32 or 10-24 x 2-1/2 inch machine screws.
These screws should be as large as can fit through
the holes in the stepper since they carry the torque
load.
Thread nuts and

washers onto the
machine screws to
hold the tee nut.
Activate the
stepper and jog
the axis while
incrementally
tightening the nuts
to hold the leadnut
in place.
When the axis
T ee nut fastened to block.
moves smoothly,
tighten the nuts on
the end of the leadscrew that sandwich the
gantry, as was done with the X axis.
Y stepper attached to gantry with

2-1/2 inch screws.
Around an inch of threaded rod will extend from

the side of the gantry.
This can be cut off, or a knob for moving the axis
by hand, can be attached to it.
The knob can be a 1/4 inch bore volume knob
from Radioshack, for example, or it can be a
homemade version similar to the hold down knobs
shown on the web site.
N uts are on very ends of screws.
The screws are inserted through the stepper, as

shown above, and nuts are threaded onto the
screws so they loosely abut the face of the stepper.
The knob has to be balanced, or it will cause the

axis to rattle.
A second nut is threaded onto each screw along

with a washer.
The three screws are then inserted through the three
holes in the side of the gantry, and nuts with
washers are attached to the ends.
Work on the Z axis can begin when the Y axis

rides smoothly.
30
Mark the
distance between
the rails centers
on a scrap piece
of 1x4 or other
material, right
photo, and drill
inch holes at
these marks.
Image below.
Template for Z Rails

The Z axis rails are held into place with tension
rods, and wooden blocks, which are at the top and
bottom of the axis. Photo below.
This block will

be used to
position the
shallow
depressions in
the top stepper
plate and bottom
spindle support.
Mark center of bushings with rails on

scrap 1x4.
These are
covered next.
T emplate.
D rill holes in block at marks.
Z Stepper Plate
The stepper for the
Z axis is supported
by a
5-1/2 inch long
section of 1x4 that
is ripped to 2-3/8
inches wide.
Z rails, blocks and tension rods.
Recesses in the blocks support the rails. These

recesses have to be the same distance apart to hold
the rails parallel.
Stepper on plate.
This equal spacing is accomplished with a simple

template.
Loosely attach the bushings in their EMT straps to
the face of the Z plate, and slide the 12 inch rails
into them.
Move the EMT straps so they are centered in their
range of adjustment on their machine screws.
Stepper plate, bottom view.
The remaining piece is around 1 inch wide, and is

used for the bottom of the Z axis.
This piece was cut to length when the 1x4 was
originally cut.
It is ripped to width now; the cut does not have to
be clean.
Tighten the EMT straps, with the bushings and

rails, into place. The nuts only have to be tight
enough to hold position, this placement is
temporary.
31
Bottom view of Z stepper plate.
Z stepper plate. T he 1/2 inch recesses for the rails are shaded
and are 3 inches apart. T his will vary; use a template.
A Forstner
bit will drill a
cleaner hole. If one is
unavailable, take care to
only drill a shallow
depression with a standard
inch twist drill bit.
Holes are drilled as shown in the drawing above.

The four darkly shaded holes are 3/16 inch and are
for the machine screws that support the stepper.
The shaded inch holes are drilled to around 1/16
inch deep. These recesses support the ends of the Z
rails and should be drilled to the same depth.
Mark and drill the holes

and recesses at this time.
The distance between the recesses that is shown as

3 inches in the drawing will vary. The template is
used to transfer the actual distance in place of the
3 inches.
A cheap Forstner bit, like

the one on the right, will
be better than a twist
drill.
Spindle Support
The bottom of the Z axis is made of the wood that
remained from ripping the stepper plate from the
1x4. This block will be around 1 inch wide
depending on the blade that was used to cut it.
Variation is not a problem.
Take care to position the template so the recesses

will be equidistant from the sides. The measures in
the above image can be drawn onto the wood, and
then, by looking through the holes in the template,
the offsets can be centered by eye.
Spindle support block (Porter C able version) used at the

bottom of the Z axis.
The template is used to position the two rail

recesses so they will be the same distance apart as
the recesses in the stepper plate.
U se tem plate to position rail recesses in

stepper and spindle supports.
The recesses should be as close to the back edge of

this wood block as possible.
The holes for the threaded rod ties have to be in
line with the recesses so tightening the rods will not
twist the assembly.
It is important for the recesses to be the same

distance apart on the top and bottom plates, and to
be in line with the leadscrew hole and the 1/4 inch
threaded rod holes.
32
There are two versions of this block. One is for a

Porter Cable 7301 trim router, and the other is for
a Dremel.
The only difference is the holes in the center of the
block.
All three holes can be drilled in a single block.
altered from what is

shown in these plans.
The rods are attached
to the bottom wooden
block with nuts and
washers.
Make this part now.
The nuts are

tightened enough to
compress the wood.
The nuts on the end
of the rods are flush
with the rods ends.
Spindle support block.

T he 3 inch distance between the recesses will vary; use the template.
T he block above is for the Porter Cable trim router.
The angle brackets

are oriented as shown
below and are
clamped into place
between nuts and
lock washers.
The angle brackets
bottom legs are 3-1/2
inches from the
end of the
threaded rod
when the Porter
Cable trim
router is used,
and 2-1/2 inches
when a Dremel
is used.
Spindle support block for D rem el
Tension Rods
Z axis, rails and tension rods.
The top and bottom of the Z axis are tied together

with two tension rods that are made of 1/4-20
threaded rod cut to 14-1/2 inches long.
These threaded rod tensioners also support two 1
inch angle brackets that hold a cross tie. The cross
tie holds the router-spindle upright.
Cut the threaded

rods to length,
tightly attach
them to the
bottom block
and adjust the
angle brackets
into position.
The angle brackets are held into place on the rods

with nuts and lock washers. Right photo.
The angle brackets will vary based on the supplier.
It may be necessary to enlarge their holes for the
threaded rod to fit.
Their size will also alter the positioning of the top
of the router-spindle. Therefore, the bottom
attachment of the spindles may need to be slightly
Angles on threaded rod.

D imension is for Porter C able 7301
It is easier to tighten the brackets into place when

the cross tie is installed. This is addressed next.
33
Cross Tie
Install Z Rails
The cross tie is made of a paint paddle or similarly

sized piece of wood, metal or plastic. Its primary
purpose is to hold the router or Dremel upright. It
also prevents the threaded rods from twisting as
they are being tightened into place.
The axis is now ready for assembly. The bushings

have been loosely attached to the Z plate, the
threaded rods are tied to the bottom spindle plate,
and the cross tie is installed.
Slide the 12 inch long rails into the bushings, and
set them into the depressions in the bottom spindle
plate.
Slide the top stepper plate onto the two threaded
rods and align the rails into the depressions in this
plate.
This part is simply a paint paddle cut to 5-1/2

inches long with four 3/16 inch holes drilled in it.
The cross tie is attached to the angle brackets with
8-32 x inch machine screws with nuts and
washers, as shown in the photos. Tightening this
cross tie into position before adjusting the nuts that
tie the top stepper plate to the assembly will keep
the threaded rods from freewheeling. This will
make adjustment much easier. Otherwise, even
with the bottom nuts tightly sandwiching the
bottom block, the rods may work loose.
Tighten the assembly together with nuts and

washers on the top ends of the threaded rods.
Only tighten the nuts enough to hold the rails in the
depressions. Final tightening will be done later
before the stepper is installed.
The rail assembly should now easily slide in the
bushings while the bushings are still loose.
Turn the two top bushing adjustment-pivot screws
so they project the same distance from the front of
the Z plate as the bottom two pivot screws.
C ross tie made of paint paddle.
Cut and drill this piece now. Tightly attach it to the

angle brackets, and tighten the angle brackets into
place on the threaded rods.
Adjust top bushing.
This will be a starting

place for further
adjustments.
Tighten the bushings
for one rail into place
while sliding the axis
up and down.
C ross tie.
34
This should be straightforward, and the rails

should slide easily.
Adjust the bushings as needed for smooth action on
this one side.
Install Z Stepper
The Z stepper is installed the same way as the Y
stepper was, except four rather than three machine
screws are used.
Tighten the other bottom bushing into place while

moving the axis.
Tightening this third bushing may introduce too
much drag. The Z axis should be able to fall to the
bottom of its travel under its own weight.
Possible causes of drag include the entire axis
being slightly twisted, the rails being slightly bent
or out of parallel, and the bushings being twisted
out of line with the motion of the rails.
The entire Z axis can be twisted by grabbing the
top and bottom wooden blocks and wrenching them
into alignment. This aggressive action may be
necessary to slightly bend or pull the bushings and
their EMT straps into line.
Z stepper tied to top of axis,

and hose clamps on leadscrew
The final top bushing can be tightened when the

axis moves well with the first three bushings
The top bushings may have to be moved toward or
away from the Z back plate to allow proper axis
motion.
This adjustment is done by turning the pivot screws
on which the top bushings rest.
Install a 1 inch long piece of hose with clamps on

the steppers shaft.
Insert the #10 x 2-1/2 inch screws through the
steppers mounting holes, and thread on the nuts
and washers.
Put the machine screws through the four holes in
the top plate, twist on the four nuts so they are
flush with the screw ends, and then tighten the
remaining nuts against the board and stepper.
The nuts can be adjusted so the stepper is in line
with the axis.
When the axis moves well, the nuts on the top of

the tension rods are slowly tightened into place
while checking for increased drag in the axis
movement.
As with the other axes, it may be necessary to
incrementally work in circles from one bushing to
another to tune-out the cause of any drag.
Sometimes turning a rail a quarter of a turn, or
simply loosening and re-tightening a tension rod
can resolve the problem.
The leadscrew is connected to the stepper after the

leadnut is assembled and attached.
Z Leadnut Assembly
The leadnut assembly is similar to the ones on the
other axes. A tee nut is clamped to a block of wood
with machine screws and nuts and washers.
Again, a solution that works well is to rather

aggressively twist and turn the entire assembly in
the bushings while taking care not to apply so
much force as to damage the rails or EMT straps.
The wood block was cut to length when the lumber

was initially sawn. The 2-1/4 inch section is now
cut parallel with the grain to 3/4 inch wide.
The axis is tuned well enough when the axis falls

under its own weight.
35
Drill a pilot hole through an existing hole in the

leadnut block into the Z plate. Photo below.
Attach the block to the plate with a drywall screw
and washer. The wood may split if countersinking
is attempted.
Z leadnut support block with hardware.
D rill pilot holes for drywall screws with block centered

between screw heads in face of Z plate.
Z leadnut support block.
A finish washer looks

better, but a flat
washer will work well
enough.
Holes are drilled as shown in the above drawing.

Two round head 8-32 x 1-1/4 inch machine screws
are threaded through the block, and a tee nut,
which has had its tines bent or removed, is loosely
attached in place with nuts and washers.
Check that the block

is properly spaced;
drill the other pilot
hole and install the
second screw.
The leadscrew is then threaded through the leadnut

assembly.
The leadscrew is the 11-1/2 inch section of
threaded rod that was left over from cutting the X
leadscrew from the 36 inch rod.
The axis is now held

in place by the
leadscrew. Tighten
the leadnut into place
as the leadscrew is
turned.
The leadscrew is attached to the stepper with the

hose connector, and the clamps are tightened.
The leadscrew and nut assembly now hang from
the stepper.
The stepper can be

activated at this time
to help with the
alignment of the
leadnut, and to test
the movement of the
axis.
Move the Z axis so the leadnut assembly is

between the heads of the drywall screws that hold
the Y leadnut block to the Z plate. See photos.
Position the leadnut block on the Z plate so it is
centered between the rails.
Z axis completed.
36
plumb with the

table. Therefore, its
length may have
to be changed from
that in the drawing.
Spindle Supports
The trim router and/or Dremel are held in place
with a band clamp that is made from plumbing
strap.
This strap is attached to the paint paddle cross tie
with two flat head #6 or 8-32 x inch machine
screws with washers under their heads.
The flat head rather than round head screws are
needed to allow the router to better seat in the
strap. The washers keep the screws from tearing
through the strap.
The correct length

can be found by
installing the
Dremel in the 3/4
inch hole before
cutting the wood to
length, and then
aligning the Dremel
with the axis, and
R outer attached to axis.
Spacer washers (circled) are
marking and cutting
between the router and wood
the wood where it
spindle support.
extends beyond the
back of the bottom block.
Band made of plumbing strap.

D rem el bottom support m ade of paint paddle
The strap for the Porter Cable trim router is 9-1/2

inches long; for the Dremel it is 7 inches.
The Dremels threaded cap will have to be trimmed

to fit onto this bracket. Part of the rim can be filed
or sanded.
A quarter inch bolt and nut with washers tighten

the band around the tool.
A 1/4-20 x 1 inch bolt is used with the Porter
Cable, and a 1/4-20 x 1-1/2 inch bolt is used with
the Dremel.
The paint paddle

bracket is held into
place on the bottom
spindle plate with
two 8-32 x 1-1/4 inch
machine screws
The bottom of the Porter Cable 7301 is held into

place with a 1/4-20 x 1-1/2 inch bolt that threads
into the existing factory made hole in the base of
the router.
The router base will have to be rotated so the cord
and switch are properly located. This is explained
on page 43.
Washers may need to be installed between the
router and the wooden axis base to hold the router
vertical to the work table bed. Above right photo.
The bottom of the Dremel is held into place with a
section of paint paddle that is cut and drilled as
shown in the drawing.
This piece should be sized to hold the Dremel
D rem el bottom bracket.
37
D rem el attachment.
When only a Dremel will be used on this machine,

this bottom bracket can be glued into place;
otherwise, over time it will work loose from
vibrations.
Note: The Porter Cable 7301 trim router was
chosen because it is easy to mount, and can be
purchased without any attachments.
W rap m etal around screwdriver.
The router or Dremel can be installed at this time.
Wire Protection
The wires need to be kept out of harms way. The
drives and steppers can be damaged when
connections are cut or shorted. Therefore, it is
important to route the wires so they are secure and
protected.
H ole can be made with a paper punch.
The router-spindle wire can be tied to the top of the

threaded rod, photo in left column, and the
steppers cable can be tied to the end of the gantry,
as shown below.
The wires for the Z stepper and router should be

anchored in a manner that permits them to flex
without fatiguing.
The table is small so the wires do not need to be
attached to cable-chains or other guides. They can
simply be attached to the axes with cable clips.
Stepper wire clamped to

top of gantry side.
The steppers on the X and Y axes are fixed, so

their wires are less prone to being damaged.
However, a dropped tool or board can pull the
wires from the drives or steppers, so these wires
should be anchored as well.
Spindle wire clamped to top

of threaded rod.
The mechanical portion of the table is now

complete. Hold-down clamps can be made as
shown on the website, or the stock can be held to
the table with C-clamps.
Small cable clips can be made of thin metal cut

from drink cans or similar.
The metal is crimped around a shaft to form a
hollow for the wire. It is then trimmed and hole
punched. The clips are held into place with hexwasher-head sheet metal screws or similar.
The steppers will have to be tuned; information

follows.
38
This requires the work to be aligned with the long

axis of the table, which means the longer side of
the table is the front in terms of the CAD work.
Axis Names
The axes in these plans are named in a way that is
logical for construction, but they can be renamed
when the software is set-up.
On this 13 x 13 inch machine, the X and Y are the

same length, so there is no advantage in having the
X axis as the table bed axis.
There are no hard and fast rules; the axes can be

named in a way that makes the machine the most
intuitive to use, and this will vary among builders.
The axes names on mills, and thus their controlling

software, tend to orient the X motion as the left to
right movement as one looks straight at the spindle.
Therefore, exchanging the X and Y axis names on
this machine will be consistent when reading the
Mach manual, for example.
The complete CNC process is easier when all

elements, the CAD, CAM, controller and machine
are all are oriented the same way. Otherwise, it is
challenging to continually rotate the mental map of
the process between steps.
The default layout for most CAD software has the
X axis oriented as right-left (east-west), Y northsouth, and Z up and down, and with the origin,
0,0,0, at the lower left hand corner.
Another consideration is simply the location of the

machines computer monitor. It is much easier to
operate the machine when the monitor is oriented
with the machines axes, since the machine will
move in the same direction as the images on the
computer monitor move.
The CAM software can use the same orientation.

However, this can and frequently does vary for
both the CAD and CAM processes.
It is dangerously easy to jog the axes in the wrong

direction when the keyboard and monitor are not
aligned with the motion of the machine.
Again, do what is the most intuitive. The machine
should match the body and minds autopilot.
The Z axis is usually the up and down axis with up

motion being positive and down being negative.
The zero point, the Z origin, can be anywhere. It
can be set as the table bed, the bottom of the stock,
the bottom of the cut, or the top of the stock,
among anything else.
This can be altered with each run to fit the g-code
and the stock.
The controlling software can easily be reconfigured

should the initial set-up be awkward.
Software Settings, Introduction

The settings in the software have to match the
components of the machine.
Switch X and Y Axis Names
Values include the Steps per Unit of the axis, the

Speed or Velocity, and the Acceleration.
It may be preferable to exchange the X and Y axes

names on this machine, since the two axes are the
same length.
The factors that determine the Steps per Unit

include the steps per revolution of the stepper, the
micro-stepping that is set on the drive, and the
On longer machines it can be practical to make the

X axis the longer axis since signs, among other
projects, tend to be wider-longer than they are high.
The steppers documentation will give the number

of steps per revolution; it is usually 200.
39
The micro-stepping value is set on the drives, and

will be recommended by the drive supplier.
This practice is not recommended by some drive

suppliers, and their documentation should be
followed.
The leadscrews turns per inch is given by the

supplier, or the value can easily be derived. On this
machine 1/4-20 All Thread rod is usually used. It
has 20 threads and turns per inch as its name
indicates.
Micro-stepping values can range from 2 to 16 or

more, and are often set by altering jumpers on the
drive boards.
It is better to initially use the values recommended
by the drive suppliers. The values can be changed
later if there are problems with noisy or uneven
stepper operation.
The alterations are a trial and error process.
Steps per Revolution, Stepper

A stepper is designed to move one step with each
step signal that is sent by the drive.
The number of steps required for the steppers
shaft to turn one complete revolution is usually
200.
The steppers manufacturer will express this as a
steps per revolution value, 200, or as the number of
degrees turned per step, 1.8
The micro-stepping values will be expressed as

fractions or as whole numbers; e.g. 1/8 microstepping can also be expressed as 8 micro-steps.
For each of the 200 native steps, 8 micro-steps are
sent to the stepper; each native step is divided into
eighths.
This 1.8 degrees is derived by dividing the number

of degrees in one revolution, 360, by the number of
steps required to turn one revolution, 200.
360/200 = 1.8
With a 200 step per revolution stepper, the number

of steps per revolution with 8 micro-stepping
would be 200 multiplied by 8 = 1600 steps per
revolution.
Likewise, the 200 steps per revolution can be

derived by dividing 360 per revolution by 1.8 per
step. 360/1.8 = 200
This value will be used to determine the number of

Steps per Unit the axis will move.
This previous information is mentioned for

background, and will probably not have to be
calculated.
Leadscrews
HobbyCNC and Xylotex steppers are 200 steps per

revolution at this writing, and this is unlikely to
change since 200 is a common value.

softwares motor configuration setup also depends
on the turns per inch of the leadscrews.
This value is the same as the thread count for
standard hardware store single start threaded rod.
The name of this rod includes the diameter and
thread count per inch, such as 1/4-20 or 5/16-18.
A 20 thread per inch rod will have to turn 20 times
to move the axis one inch.
Micro-Stepping
The steppers 200 steps can be divided into smaller
steps, micro-steps, by the drives and software. This
micro-stepping is used to give smoother stepper
operation.
Acme rod is available in a variety of threads per

inch, starts, and turns per inch.
Micro-stepping may also be used to increase

resolution, to give more steps per inch, and thus
supposedly better accuracy.
40
Starts and Turns per Inch
Determining Steps per Unit (Inch)
A basic threaded rod has one start, single start,

which means one thread winds down the rod. Its
turns per inch and threads per inch are the same.

motor setup dialogue box is the native resolution of
the stepper, multiplied by the micro-stepping value
as a whole number, multiplied by the turns per inch
of the leadscrew.
A two start rod has two separate parallel threads

that wind down the rod.
A multicolor barber pole or candy cane are
examples of multi-start threads. The red thread and
blue thread wind down the shaft together, but they
are separate threads.
From the previous examples.

200 steps per revolution stepper
8 micro-stepping
20 turns per inch leadscrew.
A 2 start leadscrew can have 10 threads per inch,

for example, but will only have to turn 5 times to
move the axis one inch. It is a 5 turn per inch
leadscrew.
200 x 8 x 20 = 32000 Steps per Inch

motor setup box for each axis.
Resolution
Resolution is the distance the machine moves with
each step. It is simply the reciprocal of the Steps
per Unit.
From the previous example:
The reciprocal of 32000 is 1/32000
5 T urns per Inch - 2 Start

T hreads per Inch and T urns per Inch.
The turns per inch is determined by dividing the

threads per inch by the number of separate threads
or starts.
1 32000 steps per inch = 0.00003125 inch per

step
All of these values are usually given by the

supplier, and they will not have to be calculated.
This is the smallest distance the axis with this

leadscrew and micro-stepping can be commanded
to move.
An advantage with a multi-start leadscrew is it can

move an axis faster without having to turn as
rapidly. This reduces leadscrew whipping, and
permits a slower stepper to move the axis faster.
This tiny value per step is smaller than the machine

is capable of physically holding since it is made of
inexpensive components.
Resolution less than 1 thousandth of an inch is
unlikely to improve the performance of this
machine.
A variety of leadscrews are available. It is

important to check that the properly sized leadnut
is available when choosing the leadscrew.
Again, this machine as described in these plans
uses 1/4-20 All Thread but builders report good
results with 3/8 inch Acme with anti-backlash
leadnuts.
A leadscrew with 2 turns per inch with the previous

stepper, and no micro-stepping will give:
200 x 1 x 2 = 400 steps per inch, and a resolution
of 2.5 thousandths of an inch. 1/400 = 0.0025
41
This value is still in the range of the machines

expected tolerance, so this configuration could be
used without limiting the machines accuracy.
The axis can be expected to move at a speed that is

the rotations per minute of the stepper, around 500
rpm, divided by the turns per inch of the leadscrew.
Note that on this smaller machine the steppers are
capable of turning significantly faster than 500 rpm
since the loads are light.
There is a wide range of options for the leadscrew

and micro-stepping values.
These can be altered to give the best performance
and will vary with the software, drive, each axis,
stepper, and computer.
For example: A 5 turn per inch leadscrew will give

an axis speed of around 100 inches per minute
(500 rpm 5 tpi = 100 ipm)
Expressed as inches per second this is
100 ipm 60 seconds per minute = 1.67 ips.
Note that some software uses Resolution rather

than Steps per Unit in its motor setup; again both
are derived the same way, one is simply the
reciprocal of the other.
The controlling software such as Mach may use an

inch per second rather than an inch per minute
value, so speeds of less than 60 ipm will be in
values less than one.
30 ipm will be 0.5 ips, for example.
Speed (Velocity) and Acceleration

These two values also have to be set in the
softwares motor setup.
Velocity is how fast the axis moves in inches or
mm per minute or second. The units that are used
depend on the software.
The velocity is analogous to a highways speed
limit. The axis will never exceed the set speed.
With the HobbyCNC 200 oz. in. stepper and drive

package, an initial value of 0.4 inches per second
has proven to be a good starting point.
This gives a speed of 24 ipm; once the table is
tuned this value can be increased. The same initial
value worked well for the Xylotex 269 oz.in.
system.
Acceleration is the rate at which the axis achieves

the set velocity. High acceleration is analogous to
a sports car, while low acceleration is a truck.
They both achieve the speed limit, but at different
rates.
During machine tuning it is better to set the speed

well below half the expected final speed.
Steppers deliver the most torque at lower speeds as
shown in the generic graph below.
Extremely slow acceleration will command the axis

to slowly ramp up to speed, while high acceleration
will cause the table to snap around, perhaps
violently.
With the smaller steppers, the axis will usually
stall before aggressive acceleration will cause
damage to the machine. However, there is little to
be gained with high acceleration on this machine.
Keeping the softwares acceleration slider at the
lower middle of the scale has served well.
Stepper torque decreases with speed.
When tuning the machine this higher power, but

low speed, is useful for pushing the axis through
rough spots while the axis is being aligned. With
The speed or velocity is initially set low, and it is

increased incrementally, and by trial and error
during the final tuning.
42
the velocity set too high, the axis will frequently

stall, and it will be difficult to find each problem
area.
The velocity can be incrementally increased as
problems are addressed.
The final velocity is set by backing off of the speed
at which the axis stalls.
and switch point in the desired direction, and the

1/4 inch bolt hole in the routers base faces the
spindle plate. Reinstall and tighten the four screws.
Do not pull downward on the base, or the armature
will be pulled from the brushes.
Should this happen, the top can be removed to
access the brush assembly.
It is better to not push the upper limits of the

velocity in the settings. A stalled stepper will ruin
a job.
Leadscrew to Stepper Coupler

A prototype of this table uses the HobbyCNC 200
oz.in. system and is able to rapid at 60 inches per
minute (ipm). The 305 oz.in. system performs
similarly on this machine. The larger steppers
perform better than the 200s on the other machines
in the Solsylva plans.
The leadscrews can be attached to the steppers

with either homemade couplings, or commercially
produced units.
The homemade system consists
of a 1 inch piece of 1/4 inch ID
fuel line, or similar hose,
which is clamped to the
leadscrew and stepper with
hose clamps.
Experiment with the speed and acceleration to find

what best suits the machine. Values can be
different for each axis. It is a trial and error
process.
H ose and clam p

coupler.
This system works well

with smaller
leadscrews
including 1/4
and 5/16 inch
H ose with hose clamp coupler
diameters.
on stepper.
The hose
system works
fair with 3/8 inch leadscrews, bit is difficult to fit
and align with larger leadscrews.
Once everything is well adjusted and moves

smoothly, Loctite Green thread-locker can be
applied to the nuts on the machine screws to
prevent parts from vibrating free. Loctite Green is
preferred because it can be applied after assembly
and permits later alterations without the need of
heat.
The base of the router can be

rotated so it will align with the
spindle plate.
Otherwise the cord or switch
will abut the spindle plate and
prevent access to the 1/4 inch
threaded hole in the routers
base.
The problem with larger screws

is an offset may develop as the
hose clamps are tightened. It is
challenging to keep the stepper
shaft and a large leadscrew
aligned.
H ose clam p
This lack of alignment will
coupler.
increase drag, which will cause
the stepper to stall easily, and
the axis will not be able to move rapidly.
Remove the four screws from

the base as shown.
Rotate the base so the cord
The leadscrew and stepper shaft should abut each

other with the hose coupling. This will lessen the
twisting of the hose and reduce backlash.
Porter Cable 7301
R emove screws and

rotate base.
43
The upside to the hose clamp system is its price

and availability, since the parts are from hardware
stores.
The commercially made couplers are easy to use;
they make the stepper to leadscrew alignment a
non-issue, and they are available in a variety of
sizes.
These can often be purchased from the leadnut or
leadscrew supplier. The couplers are machined for
specific screw threads and are not interchangeable,
unlike the homemade hose clamps.
C om mercially
made couplers.
C oupler with leadscrew and stepper.
These commercially made coupling clamps are

better, but when cost is a factor, the hose system
can serve well.
Front view of completed table.
Back view
44
Materials
Notes
Material
1x4 x 8 ft.
Quantity
1
2x4 x 8 ft.
Frame
15 x 15 x 3/4" board
Table: Can be plywood, M D F, or cutting
Bronze bushings inch ID by 5/8 inch or

11/16 inch OD by 1-1/8 long
11
4 for X
3 for Y
4 for Z
" Copper Couplers if 5/8" OD

Bushings are used
One per
Bushing
" steel rod

9 ft. total
Can be cold rolled, hot rolled or plated
3 @ 3'
Where/ How Used

Frame
board plastic of different thickness.
Slides for all axes
Bushings slide into copper coupler

so they fit tightly in EMT clamp.
2 @ 24" for X
2 @ 18" for Y
2 @ 12" for Z
" EMT (Electrical Metallic Tubing)

Single Hole Electrical Conduit Strap-Clamp
11
Support bushings
#8-32 x " Round Head Machine Screws
Spindle tie, wood to metal angle
#8-32 x " Flat Head Machine Screws
Spindle tie-plumbing strap to wood
#8-32 x 1-1/4" Flat Head Machine Screws
11
One for each EMT bushing mount
#8-32 x 1-1/4" Round Head Machine Screws
3 X stepper mount
2 Top Z bushing adjust
2 Z leadnut
2 Z Dremel tie
#8-32 x 2" Round Head Machine Screws
2 X leadnut
2 Y leadnut
#8-32 Nuts
26
11 for bushing mounts

3 for X stepper
2 for X leadnut
2 for Y leadnut
2 for Z leadnut
2 for Z spindle tie wood to angle
2 for Z spindle strap to wood
2 for Z Dremel tie
#8 or #10 Washers
62
2 X leadnut
2 Y leadnut
2 Z leadnut
16 X and Y rail ties
4 Spindle strap
4 Cross tie
11 One per bushing mount
6 Y stepper mount
8 Z stepper mount
3 X stepper mount
4 Dremel mount
#10 Finish washers
Z leadnut support
45
Notes
Material
Quantity
Where/ How Used
#10-24 or 32 x 2-1/2 inch machine screws
4 for Z stepper mount

3 for Y stepper mount
#10-24 or 32 Nuts for above Machine Screws
21
9 for Y Stepper mount

12 for Z Stepper mount
1/4-20 Threaded Rod
8'
(3 @ 36")
24.5" X leadscrew
20" Y leadscrew
11.5" Z lead screw
2 @ 14" Z ties
4 @ 3" Hold downs
1/4-20 Nuts
20
4 X leadscrew
4 Y leadscrew
10 Z threaded rod ties
1 Spindle mount
1 Cable tie
1/4-20 Tee Nuts
3 One for each leadnut

4 Hold downs
1/4-20 x 1" Bolt
Spindle (Porter Cable) mount strap
1/4-20 x 1-1/2" Bolt
1 Spindle mount (Porter Cable)

1 Spindle mount strap (Dremel)
1/4" Washers
32
4 X leadscrew
4 Y leadscrew
6 Z threaded rod ties
4 Spindle mount
8 Tie downs on table under knobs
6 Leadnut clamps
(may be unnecessary)
1/4" Lock Washers
Spindle mount cross tie brackets
One Inch Metal Right Angle Brackets
Cross tie spindle supports
Screws from Package of

One Inch Metal Right Angle Brackets
3 for Y Pivot point for bushings

2 for Z Pivot point for bushings
1" Drywall Screws
16
Rail supports X and Y axis
1-/5/8" Drywall Screws
22
4
4
4
4
2
2
2
2-1/2" Decking Screws
4 X back to sides
4 X sides to Y bottom brace
#6 x " Sheet Metal Screws
Cable ties
#4 Hose Clamps
Stepper to leadscrew connection
1/4" ID Automobile Fuel Line or Hose
3"
Stepper to leadscrew connection
Hanger Strap (Plumbers Tape) 3/4" Wide
2'
12 inches for rail support ties

~10 inches for router mount
Thin Aluminum
4 sq. in.
X front to sides
Y sides to X sides
Y bottom brace to Y sides
Y sides to Y top brace
X leadnut
Y leadnut
Z leadnut
Cable ties (metal from drink can)
Paint Paddle
Cross tie and Dremel support
Wood Glue
1 Bottle
Used on wood - wood connections
Non Hardening Thread Locker

(Loctite - Green)
1 Tube
Used on all hardware
CNC Router Plans

Plans for a 10 x 9 Inch
Fixed Gantry Machine
David Steele
A CNC table MUST have an easily accessible Emergency Stop button.
The table must be in a safe location where it is inaccessible to children
and unauthorized users; these are not toys, even a small machine can
inflict serious injury. You, the user of these plans, assume all liability
and responsibility for the construction process, and the product you
create.
Do not use these plans if these conditions of use are unacceptable to you.
payment, David Steele grants a licence to use the plans for the purpose
of building a machine for personal use.
Contents
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Y Table Frame Axis
Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Y Rails Support . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Y Table Frame and Bed . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Y Front End Board . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Y Table Bed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Y Front, End Template . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
X Gantry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Y Stepper End Board . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Z Carriage and Z Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Y Stepper Template . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Z Carriage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Y Stepper End Template
Z Rail Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Y Table Bed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Materials
. . . . . . . . . . . 27
Y Table Legs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Y Leadnut Support Block . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Materials, Simple List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Materials, Detailed List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
X Gantry Axis
Purchasing Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
X Gantry End Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Machine Screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
X Gantry Stepper End Template . . . . . . 33
Flat Head Machine Screws . . . . . . . . . . 12
X Gantry Leadscrew End Template . . . . 34
#10 Washers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
X Gantry Beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
5/16-18 Tee Nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Knobs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Z Carriage Axis
Threaded Rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Z Carriage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Drywall Screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Z Sides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
1/2 Inch Black Iron Pipe . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Z Stepper Side Template . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Wood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Z Leadscrew Side Template . . . . . . . . . 38
Wood Cut List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Z Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Threaded Rod and Pipe Cut List . . . . . . 16
Z Top Template . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Aluminum Angle
Z Back . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Bearing Truck Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Z Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Band Strap Anchor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Z Bottom Template . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Z Stepper Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Z Stepper Plate Templates . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Cut and Drill Wood
Z Router Mount . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Using the Templates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Z Router Mount Template . . . . . . . . . . 46
Contents Continued
Assemble Parts
Z Carriage Axis
Y Table Frame Axis
Z Carriage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Assemble Y Axis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Attach Z Sides To Z Back . . . . . . . . . . 66
Y Rail Support . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Install Z Trucks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Attach Y Rail Supports . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Install Z Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Install Y Stepper End Board . . . . . . . . . 50
Assemble Z Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
Install Y Front End Plate . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Install Z Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
Assemble Y Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Install X Trucks and Z Bottom . . . . . . . 71
Install Y Compression Rod . . . . . . . . . . 54
Install Carriage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
Install Y Leadnut Block . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Steppers, Leadscrews and Router
Install Y Leadscrew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
Install Y Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Adjust Y Leadnut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
Install Leadscrews and Steppers . . . . . . 75

Z Leadscrew and Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . 75
X Leadscrew and Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . 76
X Gantry Axis
Install Router . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
X Gantry Beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
Square Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Attach X Beam to Ends . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
Trim Table Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
Attach X Gantry to Y Frame
Stepper Setup and Performance . . . . . . 82
. . . . . . . . 65
Steps per Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82

Speed and Torque
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Acme Upgrade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
Introduction
Plans and Building Sequence
This machine was made to meet the need in

this shop for a small, simple and inexpensive
machine that could test g-codes for aluminum
prototypes.
These plans are sequenced in the order of the

building process.
First is an overview of the three axes and their
components.
This is followed by both a simple and a
detailed materials list.
Next are directions with templates for cutting
and drilling the home center stock.
The directions for assembling the components
of each axis follow.
Next are directions for the final assembly of
the axes into a completed machine.
The cost of the 10x9 was kept low, and the

construction time was reduced, by using off
the shelf stock with little waste.
The rails are conduit or pipe, the leadscrews
can be threaded rod, the leadnuts can be tee
nuts, and the bearings are 608 bearings, which
are sold as skate bearings.
The fixed gantry design is solid and simple.
The machines rigidity is maintained by
keeping the machine small, by using solid
wood rather than MDF, and by tensioning all
bearings against their rails.
When the table is to be upgraded from All

Thread to Acme rod, the Acme Upgrade page
at the end of the manual should be reviewed
before buying materials. The threaded rod,
bearing, clamp, hose and tee nut counts will
change with the upgrade.
The machine is designed to only require a few

tools to build, and its construction is
sequenced to be straightforward.
Read, or at least browse, through the plans

before beginning work. There are hundreds of
captioned photos that describe the building
process. Looking over these ahead of time will
add clarity.
A dedicated work space with quality tools will
help to make this an enjoyable project.
Good Luck!
Overview
The machine consists of three axes.
These are the Y table frame and bed, the X gantry,
and the Z carriage and rails.
The machine is made of 1x4 and 1x6 boards that are
cut to length, drilled and assembled.
Completed machine.
Table Frame and Bed

The frame is made of standard sized 1x4 stock, and
the top of the table bed is cut from a 1x6.
The rails are 1/2 inch ID (Inside Diameter) black
iron pipe, galvanized pipe, or rigid electrical
conduit. The pipes are held in place with EMT
clamps or metal plumbers tape.
The wooden components are held together with 15/8 inch drywall screws and glue.
Y table frame and bed.
The stepper is attached to the table frame with 3

inch long machine screws.
The Y leadscrew spans the front and back 1x4
plates, and is supported near the stepper by a pair of
608 bearings, which are also sold as skate bearings.
Y table frame.
Y Table Bed
The Y table bed is a section of 1x6 that is glued and
screwed to two pieces of 1x4.
The 1x4s hold the bearing trucks that ride the Y
pipe rails.
The trucks are made of 608 bearings that are
attached to aluminum angle.
The angle is 1/8 x 3/4 x 3/4 inch, and is sold in
home centers.
The angle, like the pipe rails, can be cut by hand
with a hacksaw.
Y table bed.
A compression rod, middle image, presses the

bearings into the rails by pushing the 1x4 legs apart.
The Y leadnut assembly consists of a tee nut that is
connected to a wood block that is machine screwed
to the Y top.
Oversized connection holes in the components
permit adjustments for proper leadscrew to leadnut
alignment.
Y compression rod spans the legs.
Bottom of Y bed showing tee nut.
X Gantry
The gantry beam is made of two 1x6 boards that
are screwed and glued together.
Its pipe rail system is the same as the Y table
frames with 1/2 inch pipe that is held with EMT
clamps.
The vertical end plates are also made of 1x6
boards. They support the beam, the stepper, and
the leadscrew.
The X gantry assembly is screwed and glued to
the Y table frame.
Gantry beam with pipe rails.
X gantry beam, end plates, leadscrew and stepper.
Gantry ends.
Carriage and Z Rails

The carriage is made of 1x4 and 1x6, and the Z rail assembly is made
of sections of 1x4 and black iron pipe.
Z Carriage
The Z carriage supports the X and Z bearing trucks.
The bearing trucks are the same as the Y trucks, except the aluminum
angles lengths are different.
The X bearings are on the back of the carriage, and they ride the
gantry rails. The X bearings are tightened against the rails by a tension
rod that spans the carriages top and bottom plates. Middle image
below.
The Z bearings are in the front of the carriage, and they support the Z
rail assembly.
The sides of the carriage are pulled against the trucks and rails with a
pair of tension rods that extend through the two sides.
The X leadnut is attached to the side of the carriage, and the Z leadnut
is attached to the top of the carriage.
The leadnut system on these axes is the same as the one used on the Y
axis. Machine screws with washers hold tee nuts to the wooden
components.
Stepper side of carriage.
Carriage back.
Z carriage and rails.
Leadnut side of carriage.
Z Rail Assembly
The Z rail assembly holds the Z stepper and the trim router.
The wooden components are cut from 1x4 stock, and the pipe rails, like all
the other rails, are 1/2 inch ID (Inside Diameter) black iron pipe or similar.
The assembly is held together with threaded tension rods that pass through
the pipe rails and clamp the wooden blocks into place.
Z rails with stepper.
Router attached to rails.
Z pipe rails, back.
The stepper is held to the rail top plate with 3 inch long machine screws. Bearings near the stepper
mount hold the leadscrew into place.
The router is tied to the bottom block with a 1/4-20 x 2 inch bolt that threads into the routers base.
The threaded hole for this bolt is already machined into the DeWalt and Porter-Cable trim routers for
their factory made attachments.
The websites Spindle page gives directions on rotating the trim routers base so it can be attached
to the Z axis bottom block.
The body of the router is tied to the rails with a strap that is made of a band clamp or metal plumbing
tape. An aluminum angle anchor prevents the routers strap from pulling through the rails.
Materials, Simple List

Notes
Quantity
Size
Part
Might Buy
15
5/16-18
Nuts
5/16-18
Tee Nuts
5/16
Washers
53 inches
5/16-18
Threaded Rod
13
1/4-20
Nuts
20
1/4
Washers
1/4-20 x 3/4
Bolt
1/4-20 x 1
Bolt
1/4-20 x 2
Bolt
36 inches
1/4-20
Threaded Rod
109
#10-24
Nuts
126
#10
Washers
#10-24 x 3/4
Round Head Machine Screw
22
#10-24 x 1
#10-24 x 1-1/4
12
#10-24 x 1-1/2
Flat Head Machine Screw
13
#10-24 x 3
See notes
27 inches
#10-24
Threaded Rod
1 @ 36 inches
72
1-5/8
Drywall Screw
1 pound box
12
#8
Finish Washers Optional
36 inches
1/8 x 3/4 x 3/4
Aluminum Angle
94 inches
1/2 inch ID
Black Iron Pipe
4 inches
1/4 inch ID
Fuel Line
#4
Hose Clamp
4 inch diameter
Band Clamp
1/2 inch
EMT Two Hole Clamps
Small Bottle
Carpenters Wood Glue
12 feet
1x4
Wood Board
2 @ 8 feet
7 feet
1x6
Wood Board
1 @ 8 feet
Tube
Loctite Green Thread Locker
30
608 (22x8mm)
Skate Bearings
2 @ 36 inches.
See notes
10 foot length
See note below
Note: One roll of plumbing hanger tape can replace the 1/2 inch EMT clamps and band clamp.
Materials, Detailed List

Notes
Quantity
Size
Part
Might Buy
15
5/16-18
Nuts
3 per leadscrew (9)

4 Y compression rod
2 for optional knobs
5
5/16-18
Tee Nuts
3 for leadnuts
2 for optional knobs
2
5/16
Washers
2 Y compression rod
53 inches
5/16-18
Threaded Rod
6 inches Y compression rod

7 inches Z leadscrew
2 @ 20 inches for X and Y leadscrews (40)
13
1/4-20
Nuts
6 Z rails
1 Cable clamp on Z rail
4 Router cradle
1 Router band anchor
1 Router band strap
20
1/4
Washers
4 Z rails
2 Z cable clamp
2 on each leadnut support screw (6)
2 Y leadnut block
1 Router mount on 2 inch bolt
2 Router cradle
2 Router band strap
1 Router aluminum angle anchor
8
2 @ 36 inches.
1/4-20 x 3/4
Bolt for Anchor Angle
1/4-20 x 1
Bolt for Router Band Strap
1/4-20 x 2
Bolt for Router Mount
36 inches
1/4-20
Threaded Rod
2 @ 17-1/4 Z rails
(34.5)
1.5 cradle
109
#10-24
Nuts
2/ truck bearing, 24 bearings
(48)
2/ truck for flat head screws
(12)
2/ Z tension rod
(6)
2/ X tension rod
(2)
2/ leadnut
(6)
2 for Y leadnut block
(2)
3/ stepper mounting screw, 11 screws (33)

126
#10
Washers
2/ truck bearing
(48)
2/ truck mount, on flat head screws (12)

2/ leadnut
(6)
2 Y leadnut block
(2)
2/ Z tension rod
(6)
2 X tension rod
(2)
2/ EMT clamp
(16)
2/ stepper screw, 11 screws (22)

Y rail support boards. Can be finish washers (8)
X gantry beam. Can be finish washers
2
#10-24 x 3/4
(4)
2 Required for Z bottom truck bearings

All other bearing axles can be 3/4 or 1 inch
22
#10-24 x 1
8 X trucks
8 Y trucks
6 Z trucks
9
See notes
#10-24 x 1-1/4
2 per leadnut (6)

12
#10-24 x 1-1/2
Flat Head Machine Screw
2 per each truck (12)

13
#10-24 x 3
See notes
3 Y stepper mount
4 X stepper mount
4 Z stepper mount
2 Y leadnut block
27 inches
#10-24
Threaded Rod
1 @ 36 inches
10-1/2 X tension rod

2 @ 5-1/2 Z truck tension rods (11)
5-1/2 Z bottom tension rod
72
1-5/8
Drywall Screw
8 Y rail support tops

16 Y rail support ends
8 Attach X gantry to Y frame
8 Y Tie EMT clamps to Y rail supports
4 Y table bed to table legs
6 Tie X gantry beam to X ends
4 Tie Gantry beam together
8 Tie EMT clamps to gantry
4 Tie Z sides to Z back
2 Tie Z sides to Z bottom
4 Tie Z top to carriage body
12
#8
Finish Washers Optional
Use with screws that tie rail supports together

36 inches
1/8 x 3/4 x 3/4
Aluminum Angle
2@ 4-1/8 X trucks (8-1/4)

2@ 5-1/2 Y trucks
(11)
2@ 7-1/2 Z trucks
(15)
1@ ~1-3/4 Z router band anchor

10
1 pound box
~94 inches
1/2 inch ID
Black Iron Pipe
10 foot length
4@ 15-7/8 for X and Y pipe rails

2@15 for Z rails
~4 inches
1/4 inch ID
Fuel Line
Tie leadscrews to steppers, 3 @ ~1-1/4 inch each

6
#4
Hose Clamp
Tie stepper to leadscrew. 2 per leadscrew

1
4 inch diameter
Band Clamp
See note below
Ties trim router to Z rails

8
1/2 inch
EMT Clamps
2 per X and Y pipe rail. Tie rails to boards

1
Small Bottle
Carpenters Wood Glue
Glue wooden components together

12 feet
1x4
Wood Board. See wood section
2 @ 8 feet
7 feet
1x6
Wood Board
1 @ 8 feet
Tube
Loctite Green, Thread Locker
Use to lock nuts into place

30
608 (22x8mm)
Skate Bearings
2 per leadscrew (6)

4 for each truck (24)
Note: One roll of plumbing hanger tape

can replace the 1/2 inch EMT clamps and
the 4 inch band clamp.
For the routers mounting strap, the
hanger tape is easier to use than a four
inch band clamp. Near right image.
See page 77 before purchasing a band
clamp.
Router band clamp

made of plumbing
hanger tape.
11
1/2 inch EMT clamps and

plumbing tape.
This information addresses alternatives to the

sizes and dimensions listed, and gives reasons
for the sizes that are used.
Using the smaller diameter #8 screws to hold

the leadnuts will require smaller 9/64 inch
holes where the screws are threaded into the
wood for the leadnut supports. The holes in
the plans are sized for #10 and are listed as
5/32 inch.
Machine Screws
Flat Head Machine Screws
The #10-24 thread size is used everywhere to

keep the parts inventory simple. Also, a lot of
nuts are required, and buying one size in bulk
can lower the overall cost.
These are used to hold the aluminum bearing

truck angles to the wood.
Purchasing Notes
Screws of 1-1/2 inches are barely long enough.

1-3/4 inch flat head screws may be hard to find
locally, and on the Z axis the longer screws
will protrude from the sides of the carriage and
may be a nuisance.
All #10 screws can be replaced with #8, but

#10 is much better for the bearing axles.
The bearing axles are listed as #10-24 x 1 inch.
This length will work well with all of the
bearings except for the bottom front Z
bearings.
These two bearings are close to the router
and require a 3/4
inch axle.
A 1 inch axle will
scrape the router.
All of the bearing
axles can be 3/4
inch long.
However, the
thickness of the
bearings,
Bottom Z bearings are
washers, and nuts
close to the router body.
will vary, and a
3/4 inch long
screw may be a little short to easily use. A
bearing washer can be left out if needed.
Flat head #10-24 x 1-1/2 may be locally

unavailable; #10-32 will work, but of course
will require #10-32 nuts.
#10 Washers
The total of 126 is listed, but they are sold in
boxes of 100. Not all listed washers are
needed. One per tension rod and one per truck
bearing can be removed.
The washers are necessary with the nuts for
the flat head screws that support the aluminum
truck angles, and washers are very helpful with
the stepper mounts.
Using finish washers with the drywall screws
on the X gantry and Y rail supports will give a
cleaner appearance, and further lessen the #10
washer count by 12 pieces.
The #10-24 x 3 inch screws used to hold the

steppers and Y leadnut block can also be #8.
#10 will flex less, but the heads of #10 may not
fit in the space around the holes in some of the
steppers. The #10 head may have to be filed
down to fit in the stepper.
12
The directions with a g-code for the

homemade knobs are on the websites Hold
Downs page.
5/16-18 Tee Nuts

Tee nuts are used as leadnuts, and can be used
with the optional leadscrew knobs.
Threaded Rod
Tined or pronged tee
nuts will work instead
of the flat flanged
ones shown in the
construction photos.
The tines will have to
be bent or removed
from the tined nuts so
the washers can seat
properly against the
tee nuts.
Three tee nuts are
required as leadnuts.
Two others can be
inserted into optional
homemade knobs that
are attached to the
ends of the X and Y
leadscrews.
The #10-24 rod is strong enough for the Zs 51/2 inch, and the Xs 10-1/2 inch tension rods,
but 1/4 inch rod can be used in its place,
though the holes in the wood will be tight.
The #10 rod will not work inside the Z rails
where 1/4 inch rod is specified in these plans.
The tension here is quite high and the smaller
rod may twist or strip threads.
Bent and removed

tines on tee nut.
5/16-18 rod can be used in place of the 1/4-20

rod inside the Z rails.
5/16-18 is used for the leadscrews because it is
easily found, fits well in skate bearings, and
does not whip in the lengths used on this
machine.
Knob on gantry
leadscrew.
5/16-18 threaded rod is used for the Y

compression rod because it is large enough to
take the load without buckling.
Knobs
5/16-18 rod can not easily be used in place of

the #10 rod because the clearances are tight.
An old volume knob

or similar can be
attached to the top of
the Z stepper to
permit easier hand
jogging. These knobs
can be used with the
other two steppers
also. This would
negate the need for
the homemade knobs
Knob on Z stepper.
on the leadscrews.
The large diameter of the homemade knobs
makes them easier to use than most volume
knobs.
The 5/16-18 rod can be as short as 18 inches

for the Y and X leadscrews, 5-1/4 inches for
the Y compression rod, and 5-1/2 inches for
the Z leadscrew. These minimum lengths will
permit a 4 foot threaded rod to provide all of
the 5/16-18 stock. Note that the 18 inch long
leadscrews will not be long enough to support
the optional knobs.
The rod is usually available from home centers
in 3 foot rather than 4 foot lengths, so two 3
foot rods will probably have to be purchased.
13
The pipe size is called 1/2 inch. Its inside

diameter is a little more than 1/2 inch and its
outside diameter is around 7/8 inch.
Drywall Screws
1-5/8 inch coarse
thread is a
compromise length.
1-5/8
inch
The plumbing pipe is sold in sections of

varying length from a few inches to 10 or more
feet.
The machine requires at least 92 inches.
Usually the best value at home centers is to
buy a 10 foot section, and to cut the pieces to
length.
drywall
One inch screws will screws and #8 finish

work with the EMT washers.
clamps.
The screws that are driven into the end grain
of the boards (table frame and gantry ends),
and the screws that hold the table bed to the
legs, can be over 2 inches long.
The stores often will cut the pipe for free or

for a small fee. It also can be cut with a
hacksaw.
1-5/8 inch screws protrude through two 3/4

inch boards (rail supports) but 1-1/4 inch
screws are too short for the rail supports.
However, the preferred length of 1-1/2 inches
may be unavailable locally.
The X and Y wooden rail supports are 16

inches long. The pipe should be cut a fraction
shorter than 16 inches so the pipe will not
keep the end plates from abutting the rail
support boards.
A one pound box of coarse thread 1-5/8 inch

drywall screws will work well enough for all of
the wood screws in this machine. There will be
many screws left over from the pound box.
The length listed in these plans is 15-7/8

inches. The pipe can be as short as 15-1/2
inches, but longer pipe will give more stock
for the EMT clamps to grasp.
The pipe will probably be threaded at each
end. The threads can be cut off, which is
preferred, but the threaded section can be left
on the pipe. The clamps will cover most of the
threaded portion of the pipe, so the threads
will only be hit by the bearings at the extreme
of the axis travel.
1/2 Inch Black Iron Pipe

The pipe is sold as gas pipe, black pipe, iron
pipe or any combination of those terms.
It is painted black, and is sold in the plumbing
section of home centers.
The Z axis carriage is capable of more travel

than the height of the gantry permits. With
longer rails, the full travel could approach a
foot before the pipes flex too much while
cutting soft stock. However, to reduce chatter,
it is better for the router to work as close as
possible to the Z bearings.
Rigid electrical conduit is very similar and can

also be used, as can galvanized plumbing pipe.
The quality and prices of these options will
vary; it is worthwhile to comparison shop.
Note that the black paint and the galvanization
of the different types of pipes will all wear
with use. This has not been an issue. A little
sanding or filing can remove minor pits and
scratches.
On this machine the travel from carriage

bottom to the table top is around 4 inches.
14
However, 15-7/8 inch Z pipes will require

threaded rods that are nearly 18 inches long.
This would require an entire 3 foot length of
rod, which will not leave enough stock for the
router cradle.
Pipes of 14 inches will barely permit this

travel.
The four inch travel distance was chosen so
the router could extend low enough to trim the
edge of the table top while raising high enough
to cut 1-1/2 inch stock. The travel also makes
it easier to change router bits while stock is
attached to the table bed.
The router cradle requires 1-1/2 inches of 1/4

inch rod. A full-thread bolt can be used for the
cradle in place of the section of threaded rod,
but full-thread bolts can be hard to find locally.
Therefore, these plans state 15 inches for the
Z pipes, so a single 3 foot rod can be used for
all 1/4 inch threaded rod stock.
It is not a problem for the Z pipes to be longer,

and it is possible for all pipes to be the same
length of 15-7/8 inches.
Wood
The machine was designed to use standard 1x4 and 1x6 boards. The boards actual dimensions are
3/4 x 3-1/2 inches, and 3/4 x 5-1/2 inches.
The 1x4 components require 12 feet of stock. As shown below, the pieces can be cut from two 6 foot
long boards. Two standard length 1x4 by 8 foot boards will serve well. The extra stock will permit
the boards blemishes to be avoided.
The 1x6 components require 81 inches, less than 7 feet, of stock. Again, a standard sized 1x6 by 8
foot board will serve well.
Both total lengths shown below (72 and 81 inches) allow 1/8 inch kerf between pieces. The kerf is
the wood that is removed, turned into sawdust, by the saw blade.
Cuts in 1x4 stock. The wood is 3-1/2 inches wide and 3/4 inch thick.
Cuts in 1x6 stock. The wood is 5-1/2 inches wide and 3/4 inch thick.
15
1x4 Parts
Actual Size 3/4 x 3-1/2 Inches
Length
Parts Listed by Length
17-1/2
Y Axis Stepper End
16
Y Axis Front End
16
Y Axis Rail Support 1 of 4
16
16
16
Z Axis Side 1 of 2
Z Axis Side 2 of 2
5-1/2
Y Table Leg 1 of 2
5-1/2
Y Table Leg 2 of 2
3-5/8
Z Carriage Bottom
3-1/2
Z Carriage Back
3-3/8
Z Stepper Support
3 See
Z Router-Rail Support
& Y Leadnut Block
Note
Below
Wood Cut List

The table on the left is a check list for cutting
the stock.
It can ease construction to mark the length of
the stock on the pieces as they are cut. Some
parts are close to the same length, but the
slight differences do matter.
Boards cut to length. Note the 3 inch section of

1x4 is ripped into two pieces.
Threaded Rod and Pipe Lengths
1x6 Parts Actual Size 3/4 x 5-1/2 Inches

17
X Gantry End 1 of 2
17
X Gantry End 2 of 2
16
X Gantry Beam 1 of 2
16
X Gantry Beam 2 of 2
Y Table Bed
4-3/4
Z Carriage Top
5/16-18 Threaded Rod

X Leadscrew
Y Leadscrew
Y Compression Rod
Z Leadscrew
1/4-20 Threaded Rod
Z Pipe Tension Rods
Router Cradle
#10-24 Threaded Rod
Z Side Tension
X Tension
NOTE:
Cut to 3 inches long. Then make one rip cut that
leaves two pieces. One piece is 1-1/2 inches and the
other is 1-7/8 inches. The lost 1/8 inch is the kerf.
(1-1/2 in. + 1-7/8 in. + 1/8 in. = 3-1/2 in.)
20 inches
20 inches
6 inches
7 inches
2 at 17-1/4 inches
1-1/2 inch
3 at 5-1/2 inches
10-1/2 inches
1/2 inch ID Pipe
A rip cut is a cut that is parallel to, rather than

across, the woods grain.
16
X Rails
2 pieces at 15-7/8 inches each
Y Rails
2 pieces at 15-7/8 inches each
Z Rails
2 pieces at 15 inches each
Bearing Truck Assembly

The bearing truck assemblies
are similar for all axes.
They are made of 1/8 x 3/4 x 3/4 inch
aluminum angle that is cut and drilled
to the dimensions shown here.
Two of each size are required.
The stock is cut to length with a hacksaw. A vise helps

considerably, but the cutting can be done by holding the metal
on the edge of a work surface as shown.
The aluminum angles are cut to length.
17
Cut the aluminum with a hacksaw.
The holes that are 1/4 inch from

the corners are scribed, punchmarked, and drilled.
It is easier to work on the inside
of the angle so it can be laid flat
on the work surface for drilling.
Far right middle image.
Set the combo square at 1/4 inch,
and scribe the 1/4 inch marks
from the edges and ends. Right
images.
Scribe1/4 inch from the edge.
Scribe1/4 inch from the end.
Use a punch to mark where the scribed lines cross, then drill pilot holes. A 7/64 or 1/8 inch bit can
be used to drill pilot holes. The pilots will help to keep the 3/16 inch bit from wandering. Images
below.
Next, scribe the marks

for the holes that are 3/4
inch from the ends of the
pieces. Left image below.
To make punching and
drilling these corner
holes easier, file or sand
flats on the corner of the
aluminum at the 3/4 inch
marks. Far right image
below.
Punch at the marks

intersection.
Drill the holes; drill a small pilot hole first.
A belt sander can be

used instead of a file.
Next page.
Mark the positions of the holes

that are 3/4 inch from the ends.
18
File a flat on the edge at the 3/4 inch mark.
A file will work, but the roller end of a belt sander makes quick
work of creating the flat sections.
Punch-mark the holes locations at the scribed marks. Lower left
image.
Drill the holes. Use a small pilot bit for the first holes, then enlarge
the holes to 3/16 inch.
Countersink the edge holes so the head of a #10 flat head screw
does not protrude beyond the corner of the aluminum. Right image,
A belt sander quickly flattens the
page bottom.
corner edge.
Punch on the filed flat section.
Drill the hole at the 3/4 inch mark.
Countersink the hole for the flat

head screw.
The screw head will

scrape the pipe rail
if the head stands
proud of the corner.
The countersink or
depression can be
made with a larger
drill bit, a
countersink bit, a
hand file, a grinder,
or a power sander.
Make a depression for the screw-head on

the corner of the aluminum.
Machine screws head should not

extend above the angles corner edge.
The countersunk recess does not have to be pretty to serve its purpose.
Be careful not to drill too deeply when using a drill bit, rather than a countersink bit, to make this
recess.
If the larger drill bit does tear completely through the aluminum, use a washer with the
machine screw, and enlarge the recessed area to fit the washer. It should not be necessary to re-make
a new part.
19
Install #10 x 3/4 or 1 inch machine screws in

the holes that were drilled in the legs of the
aluminum angle.
Machine screws of 3/4 inch will usually work
for all axes on this machine.
Adjust the bearings on the #10 axle screws

so the angle clears the pipe. Red arrow.
Install machine screws, nuts, washers and

bearings. The lower outside screws on the
Z trucks must be 3/4 inch. Arrows indicate
the 3/4 inch screws positions.
The Z trucks have to use 3/4 inch screws on

the bottom bearings that will be near the
router. Arrows in above image. Longer screws
will hit the router.
Make all of the truck assemblies.
Band Strap Anchor

Tighten the screws into place with nuts.
Then install a washer, a bearing, another
washer, and a nut.
The total length of aluminum angle required

for the trucks is 34-1/4 inches. When a 36 inch
section of stock is used, the remaining piece
can be used as the routers band anchor.
Adjust the bearings so they hold the angle

away from the pipe rail. Above right image.
A 1/4 inch hole is drilled in the center of this

remnant.
There should be at least 1/16 inch of clearance

between the pipe and the corner of the
aluminum angle.
A piece of 1/8 x 3/4

aluminum angle
between 3/4 and 2
inches long will
work for this
component.
All six of the truck assemblies can be made at

one time.
Band strap anchor.
20
Using the Templates

The templates are scaled to print at the correct size.
However, different printers will scale differently.
To address this inconsistency, each template is framed in a
box that includes a dimension value in both inches and
centimeters. This dimension is at the bottom or side of the
templates; the dimensions are circled in red in the right and
lower images.
When the framing box is not a square, a second dimension
is also given in the framing box as shown in the image
below.
Note that the entire framing box may not appear

when the image is viewed on a computer screen. It
should be visible when printed, or when the image is
enlarged on the screen.
The dimension of the framing box can be measured
after the template is printed. The printers scaling
can then be altered to properly size the template.
This will be a trial and error process, and will vary
with each printer and
computer.
The templates should be
correctly scaled when the
framing box is properly
scaled.
The templates can be cutout and taped, glued,
stapled etc. to the top of
their boards.
An awl, punch or nail can
be used to mark the
position of the holes.
Right image.
21
Punch marks into wood

through the template.
Y Rail Support
The rails are supported by four 1x4 x 16 inch boards. The two top boards
require the holes that are shown here. The other two boards are not drilled
at this time.
There is no template for these two pieces; using a template is more trouble
than it is worth.
The holes are positioned the same at each end of the two boards.
The holes are 1 inch from the edges, and 1-1/2 inches from the ends.
Using a combo square set at 1 inch and then at 1-1/2 inches speeds
the marking process.
Y rail on support boards.
Y Front End Board
Y front end board.
This board supports the two sets of Y rail supports, and the Y
leadscrew.
The four holes on each end of this board are pilot holes for the
screws that tie this board to the rail support boards.
These holes should be the diameter of the attaching screws. 3/16
inch holes are used with the drywall screws on the prototypes. The
3/16 inch hole is larger than the screw, and it leaves a little
adjustment room once the screw is started
in the matching board.
22
The hole in the center section of the board is for the leadscrew, and it should be sized to allow the
leadscrew to turn freely without rattling in the hole. The leadscrew will clean and enlarge the hole with
use; therefore, it is not necessary to drill this hole oversized.
The center leadscrew hole does not have a
template. Its center is 8 inches from the ends
and 1/2 inch from the top edge of the board.
Right image.
It is the diameter of the leadscrew, which is
5/16 inch in the prototypes.
The holes in the ends of the boards are the

same but mirrored.
The template can be flipped after it is used
for the left end of the board. Images below.
The Y fronts leadscrew hole is 8 inches from the ends.
The punched holes in the template can then be used as guides for the holes in the right end.
Template with text side up.
Template flipped for right end of board.
23
Y Front, End Template
24
Y Stepper End
The back end of the table frame holds the Y stepper and
the rail supports. It also supports the gantry ends, so it is
longer than the front end of the table frame.
There are two templates for this board. One is for the
stepper in the center section of the board, and the other
template is for the screw holes on the ends of the boards.
Y stepper end plate.
The 7/8 inch recess is for a bearing. The hole is drilled around 1/4 inch deep. The 5/8 inch hole is a
through hole that leaves a shoulder for the bearing to abut.
The shallow 7/8
inch recess should
be drilled first,
then the 5/8 inch
hole is drilled.
Right images.
It is hard to center
the larger recess
when the smaller
hole is drilled first.
Drill 7/8 inch recess first.
25
Drill the 5/8 inch through-hole last.
Y Stepper Template
The 2-5/8 inch bolt circle is shown for reference. This is the dimension for a NEMA 23 steppers bolt
holes.
The holes for the steppers attaching bolts are shown as 1/4 inch. These holes should be larger than
the bolts or machine screws that hold the stepper, so the position of the stepper can be adjusted.
Washers on the machine screws cover the oversized holes.
The center of the 7/8 inch bearing recess and the 5/8 inch through hole is 8-3/4 inches from the boards
ends, and 1/2 inch from the boards top edge.
26
Y Stepper End Template

This template is for the screw holes that hold the Y rail support boards, and it is for the screw holes
that support the gantrys vertical end boards.
The dashed line shows the position of the gantry end boards.
As with the front board template, this template is used for one end of the board and then flipped. The
punched holes are used to mark the other ends holes.
27
Y Table Bed
The table bed is made of a 1x6 that is cut to 9 inches long.
The stock is 5-1/2 inches wide and 3/4 inch thick.
The hole locations are straightforward, and a template is
unnecessary.
The surface of this board will be planed with a router bit when the
machine is completed. This will ensure that the surface is level and
true with the rest of the machine.
Y table bed.
The surfacing may remove a lot of stock, so the screws should be deeply recessed or countersunk.
A drill bit that is the diameter of the heads of the screws can be used to recess the holes after the
through holes are drilled. The recesses should be at least 1/4 inch deep. This can be done with a 3/8
inch drill bit.
The two 5/32 inch holes should fit tightly around the machine screws that are in these holes. It will be
much easier to adjust components when these two machine screws do not freewheel. The 5/32 inch
diameter is for #10 machine screws. The holes can be 9/64 inch for #8 screws.
28
Measure, mark and drill the holes.

Setting the combo square to 1-1/8 inch, and
then to 1-7/8 inch speeds the layout.
Punch-mark the layout lines intersections,
and drill the holes.
All of the holes have to be recessed around
1/4 inch deep.
Measure and mark the positions of the holes.
The holes are deeply recessed.
Drill the holes. The small holes near the

center (arrows) should fit tightly around their
machine screws.
After the holes are drilled and recessed,

measure and draw a line on the bottom of
this table bed that is 1-1/2 inches from the
outside edge. The line can be on either
edge. Right image.
This marks the outside of one of the legs,
and will be used for alignment later.
The legs are made next.
Draw a line that is 1-1/2 inches from the outside edge of the
board.
29
Y Table Legs
The two Y Table Legs are
made of 1x4 stock that is cut
to 5-1/2 inches long.
The stock is 3/4 inch thick
and 3-1/2 inches wide.
These two legs are simple and
do not need a template.
The 1/4 inch holes are
adjustment; they hold the Y
bearing truck assembly.
The 3/8 inch hole is large to
permit easy installation of the
threaded rod ( Y compression
rod) that it supports.
Legs on table bed.
Measure and mark the hole locations.
Two of these pieces are

needed.
Measure, mark, and
drill the holes in the
two 1x4 boards.
Drill the holes.
The two legs with their holes drilled.
30
Y Leadnut Support Block

The Y leadnut is supported by a wooden block that is attached to
the bottom of the Y table bed.
This block of wood is cut from the 3 inch section of 1x4 that is
ripped into two pieces. This block is the larger of the two pieces
at 1-7/8 x 3 inches.
The two 3/8 inch holes in this block can be drilled before the
table assembly begins. These two holes are oversized to permit
adjustment.
Leadnut support block.
The holes for the leadnut and its supporting

screws will be drilled later. These other holes
will be marked during table assembly. These are
the holes that are shown as ~7/8 inch from the
top of the block in the right image.
Drilling 7/64 or 1/8 inch pilot holes first will help

to keep the 3/8 inch holes on course.
The pilot holes can be drilled from both the top
and the bottom of the block. The holes will meet
in the center of the block.
The 3/8 inch holes can be drilled
after the pilot holes are drilled.
The 3/8 inch holes, like the
pilots, can be drilled from both
the top and bottom edges of the
block. The final drilled holes
should be straight and clean.
After the 3/8 inch holes are

drilled, mark lines on the
centerline of the holes on the
side of the block. Far right
image.
These lines will be used later to
align the block on the bottom
of the table bed.
Drill pilot holes and then drill

the 3/8 inch holes entirely
through the block.
31
Mark the center of the 3/8 inch holes

on the side of the block.
X Gantry End Plates

The ends of the gantry
are 1x6 boards that are
The stock is 3/4 inch
thick and 5-1/2 inches
wide.
The stepper is attached
to the right gantry end.
As with the Y stepper
end board, a leadscrew
bearing is recessed into
this board.
The holes in the lower
right image are for the
screws that attach the
gantry end to the Y rail
supports. The placement
of these bottom holes is
straightforward, and a
template is not needed.
X Gantry end plates.
Gantry ends with holes drilled.
32
X Gantry, Stepper End Plate Template

The template also shows the position of the gantry beam and its pipe rails.
For clarity, the recess and holes that should be drilled are colored pink and red.
This templates frame box is 7-1/2 inches square.
33
X Gantry Leadscrew End Template

This template is a mirror of the stepper end, with the exception of the stepper bolt holes and bearing.
The leadscrew hole on this end plate should align with the bearing recess and hole on the other end
plate.
The leadscrew hole, shown as 5/16 inch, should be the same diameter as the leadscrew.
For clarity, the holes that should be drilled are red.
34
Gantry Beam
The gantry beam is 1x6 stock that is cut to 16 inches long. The stock
is 3/4 inch thick and 5-1/2 inches wide. Two of these boards are
screwed and glued together.
The four pilot holes are only drilled in one of the two gantry boards.
The holes are positioned the same at each end. Their placement is
simple and a template is unnecessary.
The holes are 1 inch from the edge, and 2 inches from the ends of
the board.
X pipe rails on gantry beam.
Mark the holes on one board and drill them with a 3/16 inch bit.
Mark holes.
Drill 3/16 inch diameter holes.
35
Z Carriage
The carriages sides, bottom, and back are made of 1x4, and the top is cut from a 1x6.
Z Sides
The two Z sides are made of 1x4 that is
cut to 9 inches long. The woods actual
dimensions are 3/4 x 3-1/2 inches.
The parts are mirror images of each
other with the exception of the holes for
the leadnut, its attachment screws, and
leadscrew.
Leadnut side.
36
Stepper side of carriage.
Z Top
The top is cut from 1x6 stock. The woods actual dimensions are 3/4 x
5-1/2 inches.
The top overhangs the sides, which allows a range of bearing adjustment
against the Z rails. This adjustment permits the use of pipe rails other
than the ones specified in these plans. It also is forgiving of offsets that
accumulate during construction.
The positions of the sides and back are shown on the template on the
following page.
The 5/32 inch holes beside the 1/2 inch leadscrew hole are for the #10
Z top on sides.
machine screws that attach the leadnut to the carriage top.
These two holes should be small enough to fit tightly around the machine
screws. These holes can be 9/64 inch for #8 machine screws.
The screws should not freewheel in the holes. This will make later leadnut adjustments much easier.
This top plate is oriented so the woods grain runs front to back. Tension rods will pull this top plate
and the bottom plate together. Were the woods grain oriented sideways, the boards would be likely
to split as the tension rod was tightened.
39
Z Top Template
40
Z Back
The Z back is simply a section
of 1x4 that is cut to 3-1/2
inches long. It is a square
block that is 3/4 inch thick.
No pilot holes are drilled in it
until the carriage is assembled.
There is no template for this
part.
Carriage back.
Z Bottom
The bottom is a piece of 1x4 that is
cut to 3-5/8 inches long. Three 1/4
inch holes are drilled as shown.
Like the top plate, this piece of wood
is oriented so its grain runs from front
to back. This grain orientation helps to
prevent the wood from splitting as the
tension rod is tightened.
The template on the following page shows the position of the sides
in relation to this bottom plate.
Z bottom plate.
41
Z Bottom Template
42
Z Stepper Plate
The stepper plate is a piece of 1x4 that is cut to 3-3/8 inches long.
It is oriented so the woods grain runs front to back. This
orientation helps to prevent the wood from splitting. This piece is
supported near its front edge by the pipe rails, and the load could
split the block were the grain oriented sideways.
A recess for the leadscrew bearing is drilled in the top of this plate.
The 7/8 inch diameter recess is around 1/4 inch deep.
The 5/8 inch diameter through hole is drilled after the 7/8 inch
recess is drilled. Otherwise, it will be difficult to position the bit for
the 7/8 inch hole.
Recesses that support the pipe rails are drilled into the bottom side
of this stepper plate.
These recesses can be 1/8 inch deep or deeper. Enough material
should be left in the bottom of the hole for the wood to be firmly
clamped onto the rails with the tension rods.
Z stepper plate.
The recesses can be different depths to accommodate pipe rails that

are slightly different lengths.
Small pilot holes of ~1/8 inch should be drilled at the location of the 5/16 inch holes before the 5/16
inch holes and 7/8 inch recesses are drilled.
The 7/8 inch recesses for the pipe ends are drilled after the pilot holes, then the 5/16 inch through holes
are drilled. Again, this sequence makes it easier to position the larger recesses.
The recesses for the pipe ends can be sized slightly differently for pipes other than those specified
in these plans. The sides of the Z carriage can
be flexed somewhat, so the bearings can
accommodate different rails.
43
Z Stepper Plate, Top Template
The template for the bottom is on the next page.

The 2-5/8 inch bolt circle is shown for reference.
The steppers attachment holes are 1/4 inch to permit adjustment.
The 7/8 inch bearing recess is around 1/4 inch deep. This section of the stepper plate carries the weight
of the router, so the wood should not be too thin at this location.
Small pilot holes of ~1/8 inch should be drilled at the location of the 5/16 inch holes before the 5/16
inch holes and the bottom 7/8 inch recesses are drilled. Drilling the pilot holes will make positioning
of the 7/8 inch drill bit much easier.
44
Z Stepper Plate, Bottom
45
Z Router Mount
This piece of wood is
the remainder from the
3 inch block that was
ripped for the Y leadnut
block.
It is 3 x 1-1/2 inches.
The Z router mount
is drilled to accept the
pipe rails and the
tension rods.
It is also drilled through the center
of its side to accept the bolt that ties the router to the axis.
Z router mount.
Like the Z stepper plates 7/8 inch recesses, this router mounts recesses can be different depths to
accept pipe rails of slightly different lengths. Again, it is important not to drill too deeply; enough
wood should be left to support the rails when the tension rods are tightened.
46
Assemble Y Axis
Y Rail Support
The pipe rails are

supported by four 1x4 by
16 inch boards.
The top two boards are
drilled as shown in the
above drawing.
Once drilled, each of the
top boards is glued and
screwed to one of the
bottom 1x4 by 16 inch
boards.
Table bed frame with 1x4 rail supports installed.
Half inch EMT conduit clamps hold the pipes into place. Right image.
Pipe clamped to two 1x4
boards.
The boards are offset 1/2 inch to cradle the pipe.
Glue is spread on the 1x4 boards, and the boards are pressed together.
The 1/2 inch offset is
measured, and the boards
are screwed together with
1-5/8 inch drywall screws.
Number 8 finish washers,
or flat washers, can be
used with the drywall
screws to prevent them
from protruding through
the backs of the boards.
Offset is 1/2 inch
Spread glue
47
Measure offset
Tighten screws
After the two pairs of boards are screwed together, the EMT
clamps are aligned and installed with the pipe rails.
The sides of the clamps are flush with the ends of the boards.
The arches of the clamps are aligned with the edge of the
boards. Right image.
Metal plumbing tape can be used in place of the clamps. It is
soft and bends easily.
Align an EMT clamp with the edge of the board, and mark the
position of the clamps hole. Right image.
A half inch EMT clamp is aligned with
Drill a pilot hole for a 1-5/8 inch drywall screw with a 7/64
inch bit. Left image below.
the edge of the board. (Red arrow) Mark

the clamps hole with a punch.
The pilot holes are necessary because the

screws are near the edges of the boards.
The wood could split were the screws
driven without pilots.
Tighten the clamp into place with a drywall
screw and washer. Right image.
Drill a 7/64 inch pilot hole for Screw the EMT clamp onto
the EMT clamps mounting the boards. Use a washer
screw.
with the drywall screw.
48
Install two clamps on the two pairs

of boards.
Place the 15-7/8 inch length of 1/2
inch pipe on the edge of the 1x4s,
and bend the clamps around the pipe.
Middle right image.
Install clamps on both ends of the rail support boards.
Install pipe into EMT clamps.
Drill a 7/64 inch pilot hole for a drywall screw through the
clamps hole. Direct the drill so the bit does not hit the first
drywall screw. Left image below.
Stop drilling if the bit hits the clamps other drywall screw.
Trying to go around the screw may break the bit.
Bend clamp around pipe.
The spruce-pine-fir 1x4 is

soft enough to allow the
second drywall screw to find
its way around the first
screw.
When harder wood is used
the hole should be re-drilled
at an angle if the bit hits the
first screw.
Tighten the screws into
place.
Repeat for both rail support
assemblies.
Drill a 7/64 inch pilot hole Pipe clamped onto rail support boards.
through the EMT clamps hole.
Attach the clamp with a drywall
screw and washer.
49
Attach Rail Supports to End Plates

The back and front end plates need to be cut and drilled before assembly begins. Refer to pages 22-27.
Install Back End Plate

The rail supports are raised to the correct height of
1-1/2 inches from the work surface by resting them
on top of extra 1x4 or 1x6 boards.
The gantry end and beam pieces can be used for this
blocking.
Place rail supports on extra boards.
50
Glue is spread on the

end of one of the rail
support assemblies.
Right image.
Apply glue on one end
at a time, just before
screwing the parts
together.
Glue is worth the
trouble; it significantly
stiffens the joints,
which reduces chatter.
Spread glue on end of the

boards.
Align rail support boards with stepper end board.

Bearing recess faces out (Arrow 1). Use an extra
board as a spacer to align edges (Arrow 2).
Tighten screws.
The ends are screwed to the rail supports with four 1-5/8 inch
drywall screws at each junction. Above and middle right images.
The back stepper end board is attached first. This is the longer 171/2 inch end plate that has the holes for the stepper and bearing.
The steppers bearing recess should face outward. Right top image,
arrow 1.
An extra piece of 1x4 or 1x6 is used as a temporary spacer to offset
the rail support assembly from the end of the Y axis end plate.
Arrow 2 in top right image.
Attach other rail support.
Tighten the four 1-5/8 inch drywall screws when the rail support is aligned with the end plate.
Washers are not needed with these screws.
Pilot holes into the ends of the rail supports are not needed unless harder wood is used.
Repeat this process for the second rail support. Right image above.
Install Front End Plate

The front Y end plate is installed the same way,
except the rail supports are flush with the ends of the
Y end plate. Arrow in right image.
Check for square and level after all of the parts are
screwed together. The table assembly should lie flat
on a level surface without rocking.
Screws can be loosened while the glue is still Align the end of the front board with the side of
uncured to adjust for square. The wood is soft the rail support board. The parts are flush at the
arrow.
51
enough that racking the components by twisting them can pull the parts into alignment.
If needed, clamp or block the table bed assembly to
a square level surface while the glue cures.
The floor can be the level surface, and bricks can be
used as weights or blocking to hold the unit in place
as the glue sets.
The Y moving table bed can be assembled and
installed after this Y table frame is completed; this is
addressed next.
Front view of completed Y table frame.
Assemble Y Table
The table bed and legs have
to be cut and drilled before
assembly begins. This is
covered on pages 28-30.
Assembled Y table.
The legs have no front or

back, so they can be installed
with either side facing
outward.
Align a leg with the line that was
Align a leg with the line that was drawn on the bottom of the drawn on the bottom of the top board.
table bed. Note hole positions. The large 3/8 inch hole is Arrow points to 3/8 inch hole.
farthest away from the table top. Above right image.
Make sure the outside edge of the leg is well aligned with the
line that was drawn. The leg should be parallel to the edge of
the table top board.
Drill 7/64 inch pilot holes into the top edge of the leg through
the existing holes in the top of the table.
Glue and screw this one leg into place. Use 1-5/8 inch or longer
drywall screws.
Drill pilot holes into the edge of the

leg. Use the existing holes in the table
top as guides.
52
The other leg is installed after the trucks have been

attached to the legs.
Attach the 5-1/2 inch long truck assemblies to the legs
with #10 x 1-1/2 inch flat head machine screws. Use
a washer with each nut.
Finger tighten the nuts.
The screws may barely protrude through the back of
the leg. Deepen the countersink depression in the
aluminum if a screw does not extend far enough to
attach a nut with a washer. Longer screws can be
used.
Attach the 5-1/2 inch trucks to the legs. Use flat
head #10 x 1-1/2 inch machine screws.
Place the table bed with its one attached leg inside the
table frame.
The table bed should be placed so the leadnut block
holes are near the back stepper end plate.
Arrows in right image.
Align the trucks with the rails.
Position the loose leg and truck assembly underneath
the table, and align its bearings on the rail. Right
image.
Firmly press the bearings against the rails, and insert a
punch or awl through the top plates existing hole to Align table bed bearings on rails. Mark leg for
mark the position of the loose legs screw hole. Right screw. Arrows show bed orientation with leadnut
block holes near stepper end board.
image.
It is important for the
bearings to be very tight
against the rails. It is best for
the leg to be square against
the table top.
Remove the loose leg and
drill a pilot hole at the mark
that was just made.
Spread glue on the edge.
Right image.
Drill a pilot hole in leg.
53
Spread glue on the legs edge.
Place the leg back under the table bed, and screw it into place with a 1-5/8 inch drywall screw.
Press the leg and its bearings tightly against the pipe rail, and drill a second pilot hole.
Drive in the second screw.
Drive in 1-5/8 inch drywall screw.
Drill second pilot hole and install screw.
Install Y Compression Rod

The compression rod is a 6 inch long section of 5/16-18
threaded rod.
Compression rod with four nuts and two
washers.
This larger diameter rod is used here, instead of the smaller

rods used on the other axes, because the smaller rods will
bend when subjected to the compression load applied in
this axis configuration.
Flip the entire assembly upside-down so it rests on the top
of the moving table bed.
Slide the compression rod through the 3/8 inch hole in one
leg.
Install a washer, four nuts, and another washer. Then slide
the rod into the other legs 3/8 inch hole.
Install 5/16-18 compression rod.
Tighten the outer nuts against their washers to press the

legs and their bearings into the rails. Right image.
Tighten the nuts against the legs to press

the bearings into the rails.
54
Individual bearings can be moved so they firmly ride the

rails. Right image.
The bearings should be pressed against the rails so

tightly that it is difficult to prevent the bearings from
turning when they are pinched with fingers while the
table is moved on the rails.
The travel may not be smooth because of the rough
surface of the rails. This is not a problem. The bearings
will wear flat tracks in the pipes. The pipes can also be
filed or sanded if needed. This will be done after the Individual bearings can be moved to firmly
ride the rails, if needed.
machine has been operated for a few test runs.
Turn the table back upright and test the movement of

the table bed. It should move with no play from end to
end on the rails.
It is not a problem if there is more tension against the
bearings at one end of the Y travel than there is at the
other.
It is important for the table to move without rattling on
the rails due to the bearings being too loose. Make Flip the table frame back upright and test for
tight movement.
further adjustments with the tension rod if needed.
Again, it is okay for there to be a little coarseness in the
travel because of the imperfect surface of the pipes. This
will work-out with use.
When the table moves smoothly, flip it over again and
tighten the second set of compression rod nuts against
the nuts that were tightened against the washers. These
second nuts will lock the compression rod into position.
Right image.
Tighten the inside nuts against the outside

nuts to lock the nuts into place.
55
Tighten the trucks flat head machine screws into place. Lower left image.
The flat head machine screws may turn as their nuts are tightened. Slide a small screwdriver into the
side of the screw heads slot to stop the screw from freewheeling. Right image below.
Tighten the nuts on the trucks flat head machine

screws.
A small screwdriver can be used to prevent the

machine screw from freewheeling.
Install Y Leadnut Block

This block has to be cut and partially drilled, as shown on page 31, before the following is begun.
On the bottom of the table bed, mark

the center lines of the leadnut block
screw holes that go through the table
bed. Extend the lines to the back edge
of the table bed. Right image.
Draw lines from the leadnut block screw holes to the edge of
the table bed.
56
Align the marks on the leadnut block with

the ones on the table bed, and abut the
block against the stepper end of the axis.
Draw a circle on the block around the
perimeter of the end plates bearing hole.
Right image.
Drill a half inch hole that is centered in
the circle that was just drawn on the
block. Image below left.
Center the leadnut over the hole that was
just drilled.
Drill 5/32 inch diameter holes 1/8 inch
from each side of the leadnut. Center
image below.
These holes will hold the leadnut support
screws. There should be room to adjust Align the marks on the table bed and block, and mark the
the position of the leadnut between the position of the end plates bearing hole onto the block.
screws.
Drive two #10 by 1-1/4 inch machine screws through the holes in the block. The heads of these screws
are on the side of the block that was originally marked for the 1/2 inch hole. The threads will face the
front of the table, away from the stepper end. This will give ample wrench access to the nuts, which
will make adjusting the leadnut easier.
Drill a 1/2 inch hole in the circle that Drill two 5/32 inch holes 1/8 inch
was drawn on the block.
from the leadnut.
57
Drive #10 x 1-1/4 inch machine

screws through the block.
Center the leadnut between the ends of the machine

screws.
Put a 1/4 inch washer, a #10 washer, and a nut on
each screw. Right image.
Finger tighten the nuts to hold the leadnut in place.
Place washers and nuts on the screws.
Drive three inch long machine screws through the

table tops leadnut block holes. Left image below.
Drive the screws so their heads are deeply recessed into the table top.
Drive three inch screws into the table top.
Put the leadnut block on the screws. Put washers

and nuts on the screws.
Flip the table over and put the leadnut block with its leadnut on the 3 inch screws.
Put a 1/4 inch washer, a #10 washer, and a nut on both of the 3 inch long screws. Right image.
58
Install Leadscrew
Install the 5/16 inch threaded rod leadscrew in the
machine.
Start from the front of the machine.
The rod should be at least 18 inches long. A length of
at least 19-1/2 inches will permit the rod to extend
from the front of the machine far enough for a knob to
be attached to it.
A knob can make moving the axis for set-ups easier,
but a knob is not required.
A drill can be used to quickly drive the rod through the
end plate and the leadnut. Right image.
Install two nuts and a bearing on the leadscrew after it
passes through the leadnut. Left image below.
The nuts will be used to hold the bearing in place.
Install the leadscrew. A drill can speed the
process.
Pass the leadscrew through the back end plate, and

insert a bearing into the recess. Put a nut on the
leadscrew. The leadscrew extends 1/2 inch beyond the nut. Right image below.
After the leadscrew is installed, the nuts that hold the tee nut in place can be loosened so the tee nut
can freewheel as the leadscrew is turned. The tee nut will be tightened into position later.
Place a bearing and nut on the leadscrew.
Put two nuts and a bearing on the leadscrew.
59
Install Y Stepper
Cut a piece of 1/4 inch inside diameter
fuel line to ~1-1/4 inch long. This can
be cut with a knife or hacksaw.
Two #4 hose clamps are used to
tighten the fuel line to the leadscrew
and stepper.
Cut fuel line.
Size # 4 hose clamps.
Slide the hose onto the steppers shaft and loosely install the
two hose clamps.
Insert three 3 inch long machine screws through the steppers
mounting holes.
Finger tighten a nut against the stepper on each screw. Install
another nut and then a washer on each screw.
Hose and clamps on stepper.
Insert the machine screws into the holes in the machines end
plate.
Thread the leadscrew into the fuel line.
Abut the end of the stepper shaft against the end of the
leadscrew inside the fuel line.
Install a washer and nut on the ends of the steppers 3 inch
machine screws so the end plate is sandwiched between two
washers and nuts. Bottom image.
Adjust the nuts on the 3 inch screws so the stepper is in line
with the leadscrew, and is squarely aligned with the end of the
machine.
Machine screws on stepper.
Tighten all of the nuts so they are finger tight. There is no

need for a wrench yet.
Attach the stepper to the drive, and activate the stepper. This
requires having the computer and software set up. This
information is covered by the software supplier, such as
Mach3, and the drive and stepper supplier such as Xylotex or
HobbyCNC.
See pages 82 and 83 of these plans for more information.
Nuts and washers sandwich the end.
60
Jog the stepper and check that the leadscrew and stepper are
in line.
Tighten the hose clamps on the fuel line. The hose clamps
should be as close together as possible while one clamps the
leadscrew and the other clamps the steppers shaft. The hose
will twist between the clamps when the clamps are far apart.
The twisting will permit chatter and backlash.
Jog the stepper in both directions, and incrementally tighten
all of the nuts on the 3 inch machine screws.
The nut between the bearing and the fuel line should press
the bearing into its recess. Do not load-up the stepper by
pulling the stepper hard against the end plate by over
tightening the end nuts on the machine screws.
Tighten hose clamps.
The nuts should hold the stepper so it is straight in line with

the leadscrew. Minor offsets can cause excess drag and
stalling.
This is a trial and error process. Sometimes the last
tightening of a nut will pull things out of alignment enough
to cause the stepper to stall. Keep working in circles around
the nuts until the stepper can move through a range of
speeds without stalling.
Around 25 inches per minute has proved to be a reasonable
starting speed for the initial stepper alignment. As parts are
tightened, the speed can be increased to at least 30 inches
per minute. The prototypes were able to achieve over 40 ipm
with the HobbyCNC 200 oz.in. system.
Tighten all of the nuts on the screws.
After the axis moves without the stepper stalling, adjust the
nuts that press the inside leadscrew bearing against the end
plate. Firmly finger tighten the nut against the bearing so the
bearing presses against the end plate. Then tighten the
second nut against the first nut to lock the nuts and bearing
into place. Right image.
The two bearings on the leadscrew carry the thrust load that
would otherwise be carried by the stepper. The steppers
internal bearings are not always designed to carry these
loads. Excess thrust loads on the stepper can contribute to
backlash, and/or premature stepper failure.
Tighten the two nuts against the bearing.
61
Adjust Y Leadnut
After the stepper can move the leadscrew through a range of speeds, the machine is flipped over so
the leadnut can be accessed.
Rest the ends of the machine on extra blocks of wood so the table can be jogged while the machine
is upside down.
The leadnut has to be in line with the leadscrew. This alignment is done by moving both the leadnut
and the leadnut block. The block is tightened to the table top first, then the leadnut is tightened against
the block. This is an incremental process.
Finger tighten all nuts and jog the machine.
Tighten the block into place.
Tighten the leadnut into place.
Working incrementally, while

checking for excess drag by
jogging the stepper, will align
the axis. Again, it is a trial and
error process that is done by
tightening each nut a small
amount at a time.
Note that the heads of the tee
nuts are not always square with
the tee nuts threads. Rotating
the tee nut on the leadscrew can
often resolve excess drag.
Completed Y table frame and bed.
62
Gantry Beam
The boards for the beam have to be cut and drilled as shown on page 35 before the following work
is started.
Spread glue on the boards, and glue and screw the boards together. The boards are offset from each
other by 1/2 inch, like the Y table frame boards.
Spread glue.
Drive screws.
The screws are 1-5/8 inch drywall screws. Finish

washers or flat washers with the drywall screws
will keep the screws from protruding through the
back of the gantry.
The rails are installed the same way as the Y

table frames pipe rails were installed, as shown
on page 48.
Install a rail.
Both rails installed.
Attach Beam to Ends

These two end boards have to be cut and drilled as shown in the
template section, page 32.
The gantry beam is glued and screwed between these two end plates.
The beam is angled to give clearance for the stepper hardware. Right
image.
Match marks for the gantry beam alignment are drawn at the top,
and at 6 inches from the top edge of the gantry ends.
63
Gantry screwed together. The

beam is angled.
The top mark is 2-1/8 inches from the front of the

gantry end, and the bottom mark is 1-1/4 inches from
the back edge of the gantry end. Right image.
Draw the marks on the insides of both gantry ends.
Spread glue on an end of the gantry beam, align the
beam with the match marks, and drive 1-5/8 inch
drywall screws into the end of the beam through the
holes in the gantry end.
The four screws that tie the gantry beam together can
be toward either the front or the back of the machine.
It is important for the pipes on the beam to be oriented
as shown, with the top pipe rail toward the back of the
gantry beam.
The first end is easier to align when the gantry beam is
stood on its end, and the gantry end is placed on top of
Match marks for the gantry beam on the stepper
the beams end. Bottom middle image.
end. This view is from the inside of the gantry.
The second gantry end is installed with the gantry The leadscrew end is mirrored.
placed on the ends edges on a flat surface. This will
position the ends so they are aligned with each other. Bottom right image.
Draw the match marks.
Glue end.
Match marks are mirrored from each other.
Drive screws in one end.
Glue and screw the second end.
64
Attach Gantry to Y Table Frame

There are two holes drilled in each gantry end for the screws
that tie the gantry to the Y frames rail supports.
There are also two screw holes at each end of the Y table
frames stepper end plate.
The gantry may have to be adjusted for square later, so the
gantry is not glued into place yet.
This squaring will be done by offsetting one end of the gantry
from the Y stepper board. Hopefully this will not be
necessary, but offsets do accumulate.
Gantry on table frame.
Place the X gantry on the Y table frame so the gantry ends

abut the Y axis stepper end board.
Drill pilot holes into the gantry end boards through the
existing holes in the stepper end board. Right image.
Screw the end to the gantry. Third right image.
Should adjustments have to be made, these screws will be in
the same position, but with shims between the gantry ends and Drill pilot holes through the holes in the
Y stepper board.
the Y frames back stepper board.
At this time, only the front screw is driven through each

gantry end into the Y rail supports. Bottom images.
If it is necessary to realign the gantry later, it will be easier to
reposition only one screw per side, rather than removing two
screws and re-drilling two sets of pilot holes.
Drill one pilot hole per side, and screw the gantry end plates
to the Y rails supports. Images below.
Drive 1-5/8 inch drywall screws.
Drill only the front pilot hole in the side. Drive one screw into the Y rail support.
65
Z Carriage
Cut and drill the parts as shown in the templates section on page 36.
Wooden carriage components made of 1x4 and 1x6 boards.
Attach Sides to Back

Install two #10 x 1-1/4 screws into the two 5/32
inch holes that are on each side of the 1/2 inch
leadnut hole. This can be done later, but it is easier
to do now while there is easy access to the inside of
this part.
The screw threads should point outward as shown
in the images below.
Install 1-1/4 screws in small holes.
Screws are
tight in holes.
66
Attach the two side pieces to the back.

The back is 3-1/2 x 3-1/2 inches. The
woods grain of the back is oriented
width-ways as shown in the images.
The process is the same as was done
with the other 1-5/8 inch drywall screw
connections.
Align the parts. The top and back edges
are flush. Far right image.
Use the existing holes in the sides as
guides for 7/64 inch pilot holes.
Glue and screw the parts together.
Glue and screw the sides to The back and top edges of the
the back.
pieces are aligned.
Install Trucks
Install the trucks on the inside of the carriage. The holes for the
trucks mounting screws are 1-1/8 inch from the front edge of the
carriage sides.
The trucks are held in place with 1-1/2 inch flat head #10 machine
screws. Use washers with the nuts on the outside of the carriage.
Install Top
Draw the match
marks for the
carriage sides on
the bottom of
the carriage top
plate. Either
side of the plate
can be the
bottom.
Install trucks with #10 x 1-1/2

flat head machine screws.
Bottom front axles are 3/4 inch.
The back of
the carriage is
1-7/8 inch from
the front edge of
the top.
The sides are 1/4 inch from the tops edges. See the above and
right images.
67
Draw the match marks for the

carriage body.
Drive #10 x 1-1/4 inch machine screws into the 5/32 inch holes in the top plate.
Drawing below.
The heads of the screws are on the bottom side of the plate. The bottom is the
side on which the match marks were drawn.
Drive in the screws

for the leadnut.
Holes for #10 x 1-1/4 machine screws.
Align the carriage body with the top

plates match marks. Near right
image.
Drill pilot holes through the existing
holes in the top plate into the top
edge of the back plate. Far right
image.
Spread glue on only the top edge of
the back of the carriage. Lower left Align sides and back to match
marks.
image.
Drill pilot holes into back only.
Do not glue the tops of the sides.

The sides need to be able to be
flexed to tighten the bearings
against the Z rails.
Drive 1-5/8 inch drywall screws into
the two holes.
Do not drill or drive screws into the
tops of the sides at this time.
Spread glue on top of
back only.
68
Screw top to back.
Assemble Z Rails
The Z router mount and Z stepper plate need to be cut and
drilled before assembly begins. Directions are in the template
section, pages 43-46.
Insert the 1/4-20 x 17-1/4 inch threaded rods into the Z router
mount.
For ease of construction, these rods should be at least 1-3/4
inches longer than the Z pipe rails.
Nuts with washers are used on the bottom of this part.
The ends of the threaded rods are flush with the bottom of the
nuts. Above image.
Attach threaded rod to the Z router

mount. Nuts and rod ends are flush.
Nuts can also be used on the inside of this piece, but they are
not required. Tightly sandwiching this Z router mount between
the two sets of nuts will make later adjustments easier because
the threaded rods will not freewheel in their holes.
The inside nuts do not require washers. They will seat
themselves in the wood, which will help to hold them in place.
After this Z router mount is on the threaded rods, the pipe rails
can be slid over the rods.
Optional nuts on the inside ease
The Z stepper plate is then attached to the rods with nuts and further adjustments.
washers.
Different lengths of pipe and different depths of recesses can be addressed by using large washers as
shims. Left image below.
The Z stepper plate should be square with the rails. Center image below. Firmly tighten the nuts on
the rods.
Place pipes on threaded rods.

Washers can be used as
spacers.
The Z stepper plate should be square

with the pipe rails.
69
Z rails clamped between

the Z stepper plate and the
Z router mount.
Install Z Rails
The Z rails are installed into the carriage.
Place one rail in the bearings with the other rail resting
on the edges of the other set of bearings. Note the
orientation of the Z stepper plate. It overhangs the
carriage top.
Twist the rail assembly so it slides past the top-outside
bearings and rides on both sets of bearings. It may be
necessary to flex the carriage sides, or to remove the
two outside bearings to snap the rails into place.
Slide rails into carriage.
Rails installed.
The Z tension rods are now installed.

The rods are #10 threaded rod cut to 5-1/2 inches long.
These rods should be long enough to protrude from the sides of the
carriage with just enough stock to support a nut and washer at each end.
The rods can be cut down later if they protrude too far and restrict
carriage movement by bumping into the gantry ends.
The back tension rod is inserted through the 1/4 inch holes that are 1-5/8
inches from the back of the carriage side. Right image.
The front tension rod goes in the holes that are at the very top front
corners of the carriage sides. Left image below.
The Z rails and trucks have to be aligned before the tension rods are
tightened.
Install back tension rod.
Align the leadscrew hole in the Z stepper plate with the leadscrew hole
in the top of the carriage. Middle image below. Tighten the trucks and top tension rod so the rails
remain aligned as they move. Final adjustment is done later.
Install front top tension rod.
Align holes in carriage top

and Z stepper plate.
70
Tighten trucks and top tension rod.
Install X Bearing Trucks and Z Bottom

Install the X trucks onto the carriage top and bottom plate.
The trucks are the shortest ones made for this machine.
Like the bearing trucks on the other axes, they are held in place with
flat head #10 x 1-1/2 inch machine screws.
Washers are used with the nuts.
Draw a match mark on the inside of each carriage side.

The marks are 3/4 inch from the back edge of the carriage and next
to the two bottom back holes. Left photo below.
These marks give a rough guide for the alignment of the bottom
plate against the carriage sides.
Attach the Y trucks to the
carriage top and bottom plate.
Sides overlap the bottom by 3/4 inch.
Loosely install the bottom plate tension rod in

the 1/4 inch holes in the bottom back of the
carriage sides. Far right image.
Draw match marks at 3/4 Install the bottom plate
inch for bottom plate.
tension rod.
This rod is the same as the Z bearings tension

rods. It is cut from #10 threaded rod and is around 5-1/2 inches
long.
This rod adds stability to the bottom of the carriage by clamping the
sides to the bottom plate. Wood screws alone are insufficient.
This tension rod will be firmly tightened after the carriage is riding
on the rails.
Install the bottom plate so it aligns with the match marks. The 1/4
inch hole near the back edge of the bottom plate is positioned away
from the carriage. The bottom plate can be against the tension rod.
The plate will be adjusted later. Tighten the tension rod enough to
hold the bottom plate between the carriage sides.
Install bottom plate.
71
Install Carriage
Move the table bed to the front of the machine. Otherwise, it will get
in the way of the Z rails while parts are assembled. The table beds
leadscrew can be turned by hand to move the bed.
If using a drill to turn the leadscrew, disconnect the stepper from the
drive. The stepper will act as a generator, and could damage the
drive.
Move the table bed to the front
For the machine to work properly, the Z rails need to be of the machine.
perpendicular to the table bed, and the gantry leadscrew has to clear
the carriage as the leadscrew spans the two gantry end plates.
This is accomplished in a number of steps. The order of the steps is not critical. It is likely that it will
be necessary to work in circles while incrementally adjusting the parts.
Hang the carriage on the gantry pipes by the carriages top

bearings. If needed, swing the carriages bottom plate down to
clear the bottom gantry rail.
Lift the bottom plates bearings against the bottom gantry rail.
The bottom plate tension rod should be tight enough to hold the
bottom plate in place.
Align the bottom plate so it is square with the gantry ends.
Lower left image. It does not have to be exactly true, but if it is
off too far, it may be difficult to align the bearings and X
tension rod.
Hang carriage on gantry.
The back of the carriage is initially

spaced 1/8 inch from the gantry
beam. Far right image.
This spacing is not critical.
It is important for the carriage to
not drag on the gantry, and later,
for the leadscrew to move freely.
This spacing is done by moving the
top bearing truck on the top plate.
Tighten the top trucks flat head
screws nuts to hold the truck into
place.
Right image.
Square Z bottom plate with Space carriage 1/8 inch from gantry,
the gantry ends.
and tighten the nuts on the screws.
72
The carriage can be aligned with the gantry ends by aligning the
two Z bearing truck attachment nuts with the end of the gantry.
Right image.
The nuts should be spaced the same distance from the edge of the
gantry end plate.
Adjust the X bearing trucks, and/or the carriage bottom plate to
align the carriage. The bottom plate does not have to align with the
match marks that were drawn at 3/4 inch inside the carriage sides.
Temporarily install the leadscrew. Insert a bearing into the gantry
recess to support the leadscrew. Right, second image.
Hopefully the holes in the carriage will allow the leadscrew to pass
from gantry end to gantry end. However, this may not be possible.
Due to the softness of the wood, and other offsets, the leadnut hole
in the carriage may not be aligned well enough for the leadscrew
to properly fit.
Align carriage with gantry.
There are a number of ways to resolve this misalignment.

One is to enlarge the hole for the leadnut. But this may require
moving the leadnut support screws, so re-drilling is not the first
choice. But it is not a problem if this turns out to be the necessary
solution.
The carriage can be raised by moving the bearings on the top truck
on their #10 axles. Not all bearings have to be moved, and
adjusting the ones that are easily accessible from the back of the
carriage may suffice. Lower left image.
Install leadscrew with bearing.
Should more lift be needed, spacers can be placed between the trucks aluminum angle and the
carriage top plate. Washers, sheet metal, or pieces cut from an old CD can be used as spacing shims.
Lower middle and right images.
Adjust bearings on axles.
Washers as shims.
73
Piece of CD used as shim.
Once the carriage can travel without dragging on the leadscrew, the
X tension rod can be installed.
The tension rod is made from #10 threaded rod that is cut to 10-1/2
inches long. It passes through the holes in the back of the top plate
and bottom plate.
It may have to be removed for further carriage alignment, so there
is no need to tend to its final positioning at this time.
The tension rod is tightened enough to check that the carriage can
still move without dragging on the leadscrew while the bearings are
aligned on the rails.
The top plate is not completely secured
into place, so do not tighten the
tension rod too tightly.
After the alignment is good, drill a
pilot hole into each side of the bottom
plate. Drill through the existing 3/16
inch hole in the bottom of each
carriage side. Right image.
The holes do not have to be centered in
the sides of the bottom plate.
Drill pilot for bottom plate.
Install tension rod.
Drive screws into bottom plate.
Drive 1-5/8 inch drywall screws

through the carriage sides and into the
sides of the bottom plate.
Check that the Z rails are vertical and
still move well in their bearings. Adjust
the Z trucks and tighten both Z bearing
truck tension rods.
The top can be glued and screwed into
place now.
Open joint and glue.
Drill pilot holes into the top of the
sides of the carriage through the
existing 3/16 inch holes in the top plate.
With the X tension rod loose, press down on the back of the top so
its front edge pulls away from the carriage sides. Squeeze glue into
the void. Above image.
Drive 1-5/8 inch drywall screws through the top and into the sides.
Above right image. Use longer screws if the 1-5/8 inch screws do
not hold the top securely. There will be substantial loads here.
The X tension rod is tightened into place. The rod is tightened so the
bearings ride firmly on the rails.
Screw top to carriage sides.
Tighten X tension rod.
Check that the carriage and Z rails move well, and tighten all hardware into place.
74
Install Leadscrews and Steppers

The steppers and leadscrew assemblies for
the X and Z axes can be installed after the
carriage and Z axis move smoothly and
firmly.
The steppers, leadnuts and leadscrews are
installed the same way as was done on the
Y table bed axis, except four, rather than
Steppers with hose, clamps and machine screws.
three, 3 inch long machine screws with
nuts and washers tie the steppers to their supporting boards. Hose and hose clamps attach the stepper
shafts to the leadscrews. Above image.
The leadscrews are supported by
bearings that are in recesses in the X
gantry end and Z stepper plate.
Each axis leadscrew is installed
before its stepper is put in place.
Z Leadscrew and Stepper
Insert the Z leadscrew through the
leadscrew hole in the stepper plate.
The leadscrew is 5/16-18 x 7 inch
threaded rod.
From underneath the stepper plate,
install a bearing, two nuts and the Leadscrew with bearing, nuts Leadscrew with nuts and bearing
supporting the stepper plate.
leadnut onto the leadscrew. Upper left and leadnut.
image.
Insert the bottom end of the leadscrew
through the leadscrew hole in the
carriage top plate.
Press a bearing into the stepper plates
top recess, and thread a nut onto the
leadscrew. The leadscrew extends
past the nut inch. Near right image.
The stepper, and its hose, clamps and
machine screws, are loosely mounted
to the stepper plate.
Top bearing with nut.
75
Stepper on plate.
Hose with hose clamps. The hose abuts

the nut that is against the bearing.
The bottom Z bearing is

supported by two nuts that are
tightened against each other.
The bottom Z leadscrew bearing is

abutted to the bottom of the Z stepper plate, and held in place with
the two nuts. Middle image above.
This bearing, instead of the stepper, should carry the weight of the
axis.
Z Stepper mounted on axis.
Nuts with washers are threaded on the screws that are next to the
leadnut on the carriage top plate. Right image.
A 1/4 inch and #10 washer is used with each nut.
The stepper is powered on, and jogged as the hardware is
incrementally tightened into place.
The leadnut is held in place
The steppers speed should initially be set low as parts are first aligned with nuts and washers on the
and tightened. The speed is increased as alignment is improved.
machine screws.
X Leadscrew and Stepper

The installation process is
the same for the X axis.
The leadnut, nuts and
bearings are installed on
the leadscrew as it is
passed through the gantry
and carriage.
The stepper is installed
and then activated for the
final adjustments.
X leadnut on carriage side.
76
X Stepper on gantry end.
Install Router
The router is tied to the Z rails bottom block with a 1/4-20 x 2 inch
bolt and washer. The 2 inch bolt threads into the router bases
existing tapped hole.
A band clamp or strap ties the middle section of the router to the
pipe rails.
For clarity, the Z rails were removed from the machine in the
following photos. However, the router installation is done with all
axes assembled.
Router on carriage.
The band clamp or section of metal plumbing

hanger tape is bent to fit between the pipe
rails. Right images.
The band clamp is for 4 inch duct. The clamp
should not have thread-slots completely
around its band, or it will break at the slots
when bent.
Four inch band clamp.
A 12 inch section of plumbing hanger tape

can be used in place of a band clamp. The
metal plumbing tape is softer and much easier
to bend into shape.
A 1/4-20 x 1 inch bolt, with washers and a
nut, is used to close the plumbing tape around
the router. Near right image.
Plumbing tape with Aluminum angle band anchor.

bolt, nut and washers.
A 1-1/2 inch long section of 1/8 x 3/4 inch

aluminum angle prevents the band strap
from pulling through the rails. Red arrow in above right image.
A 1/4-20 x 3/4 inch bolt with a nut
and washer passes through the
aluminum angle anchor. The nut
and washer will be between the
strap, and will prevent the angle
from twisting sideways between
the rails.
Parts of band anchor.
77
Band anchor.
The images on the right show the

orientation of the aluminum angle
anchor in the band clamp.
Pliers are used to bend the band clamp
to shape. It is then slid between the rails.
The clamp is twisted into position, and
the aluminum anchor is slid in the
clamps bent section between the pipe
rails. Lower images.
Slide band clamp between pipes.
Position of angle in band clamp.
Twist band clamp into place.
Angle held in place by

band or strap.
Insert angle in band clamp.
Plumbing tape is easier to bend than the band clamp, and it does
not have to be pre-bent before installing it between the rails.
Tensioning the plumbing tape against the angle anchor will bend
it into shape.
The router is installed after the band clamp or plumbing tape
and angle anchor are in place.
Attach the router to the wooden block with a 1/4-20 x 2 inch
bolt. A washer is under the bolts head.
Tighten the bolt so the routers base is against the wood, but do
not completely tighten the bolt.
A cradle that stabilizes the router, and spaces it from the rails,
is made from a 1-1/2 inch section of 1/4-20 threaded rod.
A pair of nuts loosely sandwich washers at each end of the
threaded rod. Right image.
The washers are not tightly clamped into place, but are allowed
to rest at an angle so they will cradle the routers body. Images
on next page.
78
Attach router to base.
Router cradle.
The cradles washers are angled

outward around the router.
Cradle rests in housing

junction.
Tighten base and band.
The cradle sits on top of the band clamp. The washers in the cradle
rest in the junction between the routers cap and body. Above
middle image. The routers plastic is the thickest at this location.
The band clamp is positioned so it supports the cradle. The 2 inch
bottom bolt is tightened, and then the band clamp is tightened.
The router should be perpendicular to the table bed. Washers can be
used to offset the router from the base. Washers can be used as
shims to space the router from the cradle.
Since the Z travel is not very far; generally, if the router appears to
be perpendicular, it is true enough for most work.
Plumbing hanger tape clamp.
The routers cable can be attached to the top of a tension rod that is
inside a Z rail.
A cable clip can be
made of plastic or
thin aluminum, such
as a beverage can.
Right images.
Bend metal around a shaft.
The cable clamp is

held on the rod
with a second nut
and pair of washers.
Trim and drill.
Clamp between nuts and washers.
79
Square Table
The table bed is routed on two edges, and checked for square.
When not square, the gantry is loosened from the table bed frame
and shimmed to repair the offset.
The steppers do not have to be powered for this process. The
leadscrews are turned one at a time, so a power drill can be used
to turn the leadscrews.
Using a drill may be more convenient than turning on the
computer, drives and steppers.
Trim table edge.
Install a bit in the router, and align the bit and table bed by moving
the carriage and table bed so the bit abuts the tables edge.
Move the table bed so the bit is not touching the bed, and turn on
the router. With the drill or stepper, move the bed so the router
trims the tables edge.
Repeat this process for the front of the table. The gantrys
leadscrew will be turned this time.
Drill used to move axis.
Check the table bed for square by aligning a square along the
two trimmed edges. Lower left image.
When the trimmed corner is not square, the gantry to Y table frame
screws in one end of the gantry are removed, and a shim is placed
between the gantry and the Y stepper end plate.
The screws are then reinstalled. Lower middle image.
Trimming front edge.
The shim can be a piece(s) of paperboard or similar. The shim can be trimmed for appearance when
the squaring process is completed.
The front edge of the Y bed is the surface that will be altered by moving the gantry. Put the shim in
the end of the gantry that will offset the router in the direction that corrects the existing offset.
Check for square.
Insert shim.
80
Drive in all screws.
This is a trial and error process that may require repeating of the trim and shim procedure.
Once the trimmed corner is square, the gantry can be permanently glued and screwed into place. The
joints are opened just enough to allow glue to be squeezed into them, then all of the gantry end screws
are installed and tightened.
Trim Table Top
The table beds other edges and top can be trimmed once the gantry is permanently attached.
The two remaining edges can be trimmed the same way the first two were routed.
The tables edges can be used to square the stock that will be cut with this machine. Therefore, it is
worthwhile to true all of the sides at this time.
A g-code for planing the table top is available on the website. It is
linked on the Site Map page.
The code is for a 1/4 inch flat end bit, either end-mill or router bit.
The code only cuts in the X and Y direction. The Z axis does not
move except for initial and final clearance moves.
Activate the drives and jog the router around the table top while
watching to see which section of the table top is the lowest as
compared to the end of the bit.
Router at origin.
The bit is lowered so it rests on the lowest section of the table top.
The Z axis is zeroed.
The router bit is jogged to clear the table top, and moved to the
front left hand corner of the table.
The origin, point zero, zero, zero, for this g-code is the outside
edge of the table top. Top image.
The cut area is larger than the table top, so the bit may cut air on
the first few passes. The pattern is a rectangle that decreases in size
as it approaches the center of the top.
Surfacing top.
The bit removes over half its width per pass. This width of cut with
a shallow depth can usually be cut at the fastest speed the steppers
can deliver. The g-code is for 40 ipm.
This can be changed by editing the g-code or by changing the
feed-rate override.
The machine should be checked for loose hardware. Thread locker
is applied to hardware once it is clear that parts are properly
aligned and working well.
Top planed.
81
The leadscrews on this machine are 5/16-18

threaded rods, which have 18 threads per inch
(tpi), as their name indicates. Therefore, the
threaded rod, and thus the stepper, have to turn
18 times to move the axis 1 inch.
Stepper Setup and Performance

A note regarding the axis names and
orientation:
The X, Y, and Z axes were named in a way
that was consistent with Mach software. The
names are also consistent with the default
orientation of some CAD software. However,
these axis letter assignments can be altered. Set
them in a way that is intuitive for the work
environment.
In this example with 1/8 micro-stepping, the

stepper requires 1600 steps to turn one
revolution, and the leadscrew has to turn 18
times to move the axis one inch, so the stepper
has to receive 1600 x 18 = 28800 steps to
move the axis one inch.
This is the value that is entered into the Steps
per Unit box in Mach.
Steps per Unit

The reciprocal of this value is the resolution of
the table. This is the smallest distance the table
can be commanded to move, which is 1/28800
or 0.000034722 inch.
The settings for the stepper will vary

depending on the drives, steppers and software
used. The documentation from the suppliers
should be followed. The information here is an
overview of some of the basics as they relate to
this machine.
Though the software can send, and the stepper

can respond to commands of this resolution,
the table cannot engrave the head of a pin
because the actual accuracy and tolerances of
the leadscrew and leadnut are worse than the
software can deliver.
Mach2 or 3 is the recommended software;

before the steppers can be run, the software
has to be configured.
The values for Steps per Unit for Mach are
derived as follows:
These Step per Unit values are derived the

same way for the HobbyCNC drives. The
prototypes use step micro-stepping.
The steppers from HobbyCNC and Xylotex,

like most steppers, move 1.8 degrees per step,
which is 200 steps per revolution. This step
increment can be made smaller with microstepping, which is set with jumpers on the
drives.
The stepper receives 200 x 2 steps per

revolution, and the 18 tpi leadscrew gives a
Steps per Inch value of 7200, (200 x 2 x 18)
and resolution of 0.00013889 inch. Again, this
resolution is better than the tables accuracy or
tolerance.
For the drives used in this shop, Xylotex

recommends 1/8 micro-stepping, which means
there are 8 steps for every one of the 200 steps
the stepper makes per revolution. Therefore,
the software has to send 200 x 8 steps = 1600
steps per stepper revolution.
82
As addressed previously, the faster a stepper

turns, the lower its torque. Therefore, it is
necessary to adjust the initial settings for the
steppers speeds to a low value, so the steppers
will have enough power to turn against the
heavier loads of a poorly aligned machine.
Speed and Torque

Steppers deliver their highest torque at low
speeds. As shown in the generic graph below,
the torque rapidly diminishes as the speed
increases. Therefore, it can be difficult for a
stepper to move an axis rapidly.
The steppers speeds can be increased after the

axes are aligned and running smoothly.
Steppers can be damaged when they are
powered while stalled; therefore, it is better to
not push them to their stalling point any more
than necessary.
The speed of the axis is frequently specified in
units per second rather than per minute; so
speeds of less than 60 ipm will be in values less
than one.
30 ipm will be 0.5 ips, for example.
Stepper torque decreases with speed.
With a 18 tpi leadscrew the stepper will have

to turn at 900 rpm to give an axis speed of 50
inches per minute. (18 x 50 = 900) This is fast
for a stepper, and its torque will be far below
its stated output.
With the HobbyCNC 200 oz.in. stepper and

drive package, an initial value of 0.4 inches per
second has proven to be a good starting point.
This gives a speed of 24 ipm (0.4 x 60). Once
the machine is tuned this value can be
increased. The same initial value worked well
for the Xylotex 269 oz.in. system.
Many steppers, when driven with small drives,

cannot output enough force to move the table
at higher speeds, even though they can turn
rapidly with no load.
The acceleration values in Mach can be in the

middle of the range. High acceleration rates
can cause the steppers to stall with direction
changes.
Extremely low accelerations cause the
steppers motion to be sluggish.
A prototype of this table uses the HobbyCNC

200 oz.in. system, and is able to rapid over 40
inches per minute (ipm). The 305 oz.in. system
performs similarly on this machine. The larger
steppers perform better than the 200s on the
larger machines. If the steppers are to be
recycled into other machines, it is highly
recommended to purchase ones with torque
over 250 oz.in.
Experiment with the speed and acceleration to

find what best suits the machine. Values can be
significantly different for each axis. It is a trial
and error process.
83
Acme Upgrade
The machine can be upgraded to use Acme
rod. This will approximately double the price
of the components, but the quality and speed
of the work will improve.
The machine is sized so a standard 3 foot
leadscrew can be cut in half to give two 18
inch leadscrews. These leadscrews will be long
enough to span the X and Y axes end plates,
but will not be long enough to support knobs.
Instead, the knobs can be attached to the
steppers.
C ollar clamp (A rrow 1), and leadscrew to

stepper coupler (Arrow 2).
The hose system can be used, but it is

challenging to match the larger leadscrew to
the 1/4 inch stepper shaft.
Upgrading the Z axis is also possible, but the

performance improvement for most work is
not as substantial as the upgrades on the other
two axes.
These larger diameter leadscrews will not flex

as much as the 5/16 inch threaded rods, so
they do not need the 5/16 inch diameter hole
on the axis end that is opposite the stepper.
Image below. This hole can be enlarged to
permit more clearance for the leadnut when it
abuts the gantry end. (Arrow 1).
Two leadscrew sizes that have served well are

3/8-10 two start, which gives five turns per
inch, and 3/8-8 four start, which gives two
turns per inch. Of course, other thread counts
will also work.
These leadscrews are 3/8 inch diameter and
will require 3/8 inside diameter bearings.
3/8 ID by 7/8 OD (Outside Diameter) bearings
are a standard size and are available from
vxb.com and skatebearings.com among other
suppliers.
The tee nut leadnut will have to be upgraded

to one that is sized to fit the Acme leadscrew.
Its flange can be notched to fit between the
existing machine screws that support the
leadnut. Arrow 2 below.
These bearings will fit in the same recesses

that were drilled for the skate bearings. Two
bearings are required for each leadscrew.
Collar, shaft, or thread clamps (same product,
different names) are used, instead of a pair of
nuts, to clamp the inside bearing in place.
Arrow 1 in the above right image.
A leadscrew to stepper coupler replaces the
hose and #4 clamps that attach the leadscrew
to the steppers shaft. Arrow 2, top image.
Leadnuts, clamps and couplers from
dumpstercnc.com have served well.
Larger hole in gantry end (Arrow 1) permits more

clearance for the leadnut. T he leadnut can be notched
to fit between the attachment screws. (Arrow 2)
84
Plans for an 18 x 24 Inch

V Bearing CNC Machine
David Steele
NOTICE: That which makes CNC machines useful also makes

them dangerous; they move without direct human control.
A CNC table MUST have an easily accessible Emergency Stop

button. The table must be in a safe location where it is inaccessible
to children and unauthorized users. These are not toys, even a small
machine can inflict serious injury. You, the user of these plans, assume all liability and responsibility for the construction process,
and the product you create.
Do not use these plans if these conditions of use are unacceptable
to you.
David Steele is the copyright owner of these plans. In consideration
for payment, David Steele grants a licence to use the plans for the
purpose of building a machine for personal use.
Contents
Overviews............................................... 5
Introduction.....................................................5
Machine Overview ..........................................6
X Axis Overview..............................................7
Y Gantry Axis Overview..................................8
Carriage Overview.........................................10
Z Axis Overview............................................11
Front and Back Views....................................12
Aluminum Angle, Overview..........................36

Drill Aluminum for Legs...............................36
Drill Aluminum for Rack...............................37
Attach Racks and Rails to Angle....................38
Standoff Screw for Rail..................................38
Review, Rack and Rail ...................................39
Bed and Legs......................................... 39

X Axis Legs....................................................39
Table Bed.......................................................40
Measure Width..............................................41
Install 2x3 Frame............................................41
Gantry................................................... 13
Gantry Construction .....................................13
Gantry End-Plates.........................................13
Leadscrew Stepper End-Plate........................14
Template, Leadscrew Stepper End-Plate.......15
Pinion Stepper End-Plate..............................16
Template, Pinion Stepper End-Plate.............17
Cut End-PlatesLeadscrew Stepper End.......18
Cut End-PlatesPinion Stepper End..............18
Mark and Drill Holes.....................................19
Gantry Beam .................................................22
Limit Switch Holes........................................22
Gantry Rails...................................................23
Beam Studs....................................................25
Review, Gantry Assembly...............................27
Pinions.................................................. 44
Pinion Axle Components, Overview..............44
Pinion Set Screws...........................................45
Pinion Axle.....................................................45
Pinion Axle Construction...............................46
Adjust Bearings and Pinions..........................48
Square Gantry to Table Bed...........................49
Square Gantry to Rails...................................50
Carriage................................................ 51
Carriage Overview.........................................51
Carriage Plate Construction...........................52
Carriage Template..........................................53
Drill Carriage Plate........................................54
Install Carriage V Bearings............................54
Install Carriage on Gantry.............................55
Bearings................................................ 27
Bearings Overview.........................................27
Bushing Fabrication.......................................28
Axle Bolts Overview.......................................29
X Bearing Bolts..............................................29
Carriage Plate Bolts........................................30
Bolt Pin..........................................................31
Epoxy Glue Option........................................31
Bearing Construction Review........................32
Install X Bearings...........................................33
Y Leadnut.............................................. 56
Y Leadnut Bracket.........................................56
Bracket Construction, Carriage Leg...............57
Construction, Leadnut and Angle Bracket.....58
Drill Leadnut.................................................58
Drill Angle Bracket's Leadscrew Hole...........58
Check Alignment...........................................58
Drill Bracket's Leadnut Screw Holes.............59
Install Leadnut and Bracket...........................59
Adjusting Offsets............................................59
Racks and Rails...................................... 34

X Rack and Rail Overview.............................34
Cut and Drill Racks........................................34
Cut and Drill Steel Rails................................35
Y Leadscrew........................................... 60
Leadscrew Bearing Flange.............................60
Leadscrew Installation....................................61
Align Leadnut and Leadscrew.......................62
Limit Switches....................................... 84
Limit Switches Overview...............................84
Sequence Note................................................85
Z Limit Switch, Wire and Tube Mounting....85
Z Limit Switch Operation ............................86
Limit Switch Stop..........................................86
Z Switch.........................................................87
Switch Placement...........................................87
Z Switch Installation......................................88
Secure Tubing to Gantry................................88
Gantry Limits.................................................89
Cable Cover....................................................90
Limit Switch Wires........................................91
Table Bed Limits............................................92
Z Axis.................................................... 64
Z Axis Overview............................................64
Steel Rails.......................................................64
Z Body...........................................................65
Holes for Steel Rail........................................65
Holes for Trim Router Mount........................65
Eye Bolts........................................................66
Attach Rails....................................................66
Z Top Plate....................................................67
Heat Sink.......................................................68
X Axis Stops........................................... 93
Router Mount........................................ 69
Router Mount Construction..........................69
Fenders and Dust Guards....................... 94

Overview........................................................94
Dust Guard Construction..............................95
Fender Carving...............................................96
Z Leadnut.............................................. 71
Z Leadnut Overview......................................71
Z Leadnut Angle Bracket...............................71
Z Leadnut......................................................72
Install Leadnut...............................................72
Adjust Z Axis V Bearings...............................73
Knobs.................................................... 97
Step Per Inch Values............................... 98
Leadscrew.......................................................98
Rack and Pinion.............................................98
Acceleration....................................................98
Speed, Velocity...............................................99
Axis Names....................................................99
Install Z ................................................ 74
Install Z Stepper.............................................74
Align Z Axis...................................................75
X and Y Steppers.................................... 76
Install Gantry Leadscrew Stepper..................76
Install Pinion Axis Stepper.............................76
Notes..................................................... 99
Pulley Notes...................................................99
Leadscrew and Leadnut Notes.......................99
Rail Notes.....................................................100
Scaling Notes...............................................100
Stepper and Drive Notes..............................101
Wrap Up.......................................................101
Supplier Notes..............................................102
Wire Protection..................................... 78
Cable Clamps.................................................78
Z Cable Guide...............................................78
Secure Stepper Cables....................................80
Router Cord Support.....................................81
Tee Slots................................................ 83
Tee Slots Construction...................................83
Materials Lists..................................... 103

Condensed Materials List............................108
Introduction
This machine is made of stock sizes of aluminum, steel
and wood, which are cut to length and drilled. This
simplifies construction and reduces the cost. The axes
can be lengthened for a larger cutting area.
The axes are supported by V bearings that ride steel
rails. V bearings give stable travel.
The gantry is driven with pinions on racks, and the carriage and Z axis are driven with leadscrews. Racks and
pinions are fast, and leadscrews are simple.
NEMA 23 steppers move each axis. This is a standard
size that is available in many stepper and drive packages.
The machine is designed to use a trim router. The power
is compatible with stepper and drive packages.
Simple tensioning and adjustment systems tighten the
belts, V bearings and pinions to minimize backlash and
chatter. A solid and tight machine performs well.
There are notes regarding components and scaling at

the end of the manual. The Materials List also includes
information that can help with the construction and
purchasing process.
Though the machine and plans are straightforward, it is
important to preview the plans before beginning construction or ordering components.
An organized work area with well maintained tools will
help to make the project enjoyable.
Good luck!
Machine Overview
The machine consists of three
axes.
These are the X table bed axis,
the Y gantry, and the Z axis,
which supports the trim router.
The axis names (X, Y and
Z) can be changed when the
software is configured.
Front view of the X table bed.
Front view of the Y gantry with the carriage.
The machine disassembled for storage.

The machine can be disassembled by moving the axes beyond their limits.
The separate components can then be stored as a more compact package.
Z axis with router.
X Axis Overview
The X table bed axis consists of a

inch plywood base with its supporting wooden 2x3 frame.
Rectangular aluminum tubing legs
hold the aluminum angle rail supports.
The racks and rails are tied to the

aluminum angles with machine
screws.
Optional tee slots made from 1x4
lumber are attached to the top of
the plywood base.
X table bed axis.
Stock sized 2x3 framing lumber is screwed and glued

to the bottom of the plywood base to add rigidity.
The legs are 4 inch sections of 2 x 3 x inch
rectangular aluminum
tubing. Right image.
Rectangular wooden
plugs (painted black in
the far right image) are
pressed into the ends
of the 2 x 3 inch tubing legs. The plugs add
rigidity.
2 x 3 x inch aluminum angle supports the rack

and rails.
The X axis' rails are x inch steel flat bar.
Threaded rods with nuts on top, and tee nuts on the

bottom, tie the aluminum angles, the legs and the
wooden base together.
Y Gantry Axis Overview

The gantry is made of 4 inch aluminum channel that is supported
by end-plates that are made of x
6 inch aluminum flat bar.
The end-plates support the X and
Y steppers, the pinions' axle, and
the V bearings that ride on the X
table bed's rails.
Front view of the Y gantry with the carriage.
Back view of the gantry.
Pinion stepper end.
Leadscrew stepper end.
A 12 tooth pulley on the stepper drives a 36 tooth

pinion axle pulley.
A pair of 1 inch bearings, which are on an offset
bushing, tension the belt.
Both the stepper and the leadscrew have 15 tooth

pulleys.
The belt is tensioned by moving the stepper in its
oversized mounting holes.
A inch OD bearing rides the top of the X rail. A

shop built offset bushing in the bearing's bore allows tension adjustment against the rail.
V bearings ride the bottom of the

X rails.
A fender and dust guard cover the top bearing and

pinion The wooden fender is cut with the CNC
machine.
inch OD bearings support the

pinions' axle. (Arrow)
Steel x x inch angle rails

for the V bearings are attached to
the top and bottom of the gantry
beam. Right image.
All V bearings have shop made
offset bushings in their bores.
Top bearing, far right image.
These permit the V bearings to
be tightly tensioned against their
rails. The offset bushings also permit axis alignment.
The pinions are pulled into the

racks by the V bearings.
Carriage Overview
The carriage is x 6 inch aluminum flat bar. This plate supports the Y and Z leadnut brackets and V bearings.
Front view of the carriage plate.
Back view of the carriage on the gantry.
The Z leadnut is attached to the front of the plate

as shown above. The front of the plate also supports
the four V bearings that carry the spindle assembly.
An optional limit switch bracket, the white box on
the left in the above image, can be attached to the
plate.
The Y leadnut's angle bracket is attached to the
back of this plate, as shown in the right image.
A #8-32 x 1 inch screw supports the Z limit
switch's wire, which is protected in tubing.
Two other long screws on the carriage serve as
stops to trigger the Y limit switches, which are on
the ends of the gantry. Image below.
Back of carriage, shown detached from the gantry.
Y limit switches at gantry ends.
10
Z Axis Overview
The body of the Z axis is a 2 x 1 x inch aluminum
channel that is cut to 1 foot long. The face of this
channel is painted blue on the prototype shown
here.
A x 2 inch square aluminum plate cut from flat
bar is attached to the top of the channel with eye
bolts. Two leadscrew bearings sandwich this plate.
The top bearing abuts the stepper to leadscrew coupler, and the bottom bearing is held in place with a
collar clamp.
The stepper is supported by long machine screws
that serve as standoffs. An optional x 2 x 4 inch
piece of flat bar is a heat sink for the stepper.
The rails for the V bearings are x inch steel
angles that are machine screwed to the sides of the
aluminum channel.
The spindle-router is attached to the channel with
a band clamp made of plumbing hanger tape. A
-20 bolt attaches the router's base to the bottom
of the aluminum channel.
An optional plastic stop to trigger the Z limit
switch is attached to the lower edge of the channel.
Back and front view of the Z axis.
Stepper mounted to Z axis.
Back view of stepper mount on channel.
11
Front and Back Views
12
Gantry Construction
A 24 inch long gantry beam supporting a 6

inch wide carriage will give a carriage travel
and cutting width of 18 inches.
The gantry beam can be lengthened. The longer the gantry beam the more it will flex, which
will contribute to chatter.
A 4 inch channel gantry beam as long as 36
inches has served well with a trim router on
other DIY machines built here.
The gantry assembly is built first because it

is easier to align the X table bed rails to the
gantry's bearings than it is to cut the gantry
beam to match the position of the X rails.
Gantry End-Plates
The gantry end-plates are made of x 6 inch 6061T6511 extruded aluminum flat bar.
A 26 inch long section of x 6 inch aluminum flat
bar will supply enough stock for the gantry ends
and the Z carriage plate. Image below.
26
Due to custom cutting fees, buying a 3 foot section

of flat bar may be the better value.
The end-plates are nearly mirror images of each
other. The differences are the holes for the pinion
belt tensioner and the leadscrew bearing attachment.
Gantry end-plate, pinion stepper end.
The end-plates were designed on a 1/16 inch grid to

keep the measurements manageable. This created
some odd angles, but these angles can be cut to the
rounded dimensions of 40 and 50 degrees that are
shown on the templates.
When using a miter saw to cut the end-plates, the
saw can be set to 40 degrees for most cuts. The simplest way to avoid confusion is to tape the template
to the stock and set the miter saw so it aligns with
the cut. The directions sequence the cuts so they can
be cut on a saw that does not swivel to 50 degrees.
The edge cuts do not have to be pretty to give a
workable product. However, it is important for the
holes to be well aligned with each other. Therefore,
care should be taken when the holes are marked
with a center punch.
Gantry end-plate, leadscrew stepper end.
13
14
3-3/16
4-3/8
5-5/16
6-1/4
3-1/2
2-11/16
1/8
8-3/4
5-5/8
6-1/16
2-1/2
1-15/16
9/64
13/16
5/16
1-5/8
Tap #8-32
ar
5/16
1-13/16
9/64
Tap #8-32
2-5/16
This Image Is Not To Scale
Leadscrew Stepper End-Plate
B
at
~ 50 o
9/64
Tap #8-32
5/8
7/8
Recess on
Back Side
13/16
n
w
1/4
ig
is
e
6
2-7/8
15/16
5/8
7/8 Leadscrew
Bearing Recess on
This Side
Al
Th
g
Ed
ith
2-1/8
2-13/16
O1-5/8
2-1/2
3/16
-1
6
Fl
6-1/2
1-3/16
1/4
4-3/8
~6
1
3/
I
h
nc
7-5/16
1/4
~ 40 o
2-7/8
5/16
2-1/8

This image is scaled to fit on a sheet of paper.
It is not the actual size and cannot be used as a full scale
template. The full scale template is on the next page.
This page can be printed and used with the template as a reference for the dimensions that do
not fit on the template's sheet of paper.
5/16
1-5/8
This Edge Is Cut First 40
3-3/16
5/16
1-13/16
8-3/4
9/64
Tap #8-32
9/64
Tap #8-32
5/8
7/8
Pinion Bearing
Recess on
Back Side
3-1/2
13/16
1/4
2-7/8
2-1/8
2-13/16
1/4
40
7-5/16
15
1-15/16
9/64
Tap #8-32
13/16
2-1/2
2-5/16
5-5/8
15/16
1-3/16
O1-5/8
15/16
2-1/2
1/4
4-3/8
3/16
5/8
7/8
Leadscrew Bearing
Recess on
This Side
2-1/8
Template, Leadscrew Stepper End-Plate

When printing this page from Adobe Acrobat, in the Page Scaling dialogue
box, choose None.
Shrinking to fit or scaling to fit may alter this image's print size.
Different printers will give different results, and it may be
necessary to adjust the printer's scaling if the None setting
does not work. This template is for printing on US standard
8.5 x 11 paper.
Be sure to cross check the printed page's actual
dimensions with the dimensions that are printed
ar
B
t
on this template.
a
Fl
The template should be correctly scaled
ch
In
when the 83/4 inches (222.25 mm)
6
by 75/16 inches (185.74 mm) are
ith
w
16
correct on the printed page.
3/ dge
1
E
~6 his
T
n
il g
A
16
2-1/8
5/16
ig
Al
5/16
1-5/8
~6
ge
is
/1
6
-1
3
6
Ba
2-1/2
5-5/8
6-1/16
8-3/4
9/64
Tap #8-32
3/16
5/16
1-13/16
2-5/16
9/64
Tap #8-32
5/8
9/64
Tap #8-32
Pinion Stepper End-Plate

This Image Is Not To Scale
1-15/16
r
la
t
ch
In
wi
th
Ed
Th
9/64
Tap #8-32
13/16

This image is scaled to fit on a sheet of paper.
It is not the actual size and is not a template.
It can be printed and used with the template as a
reference for the dimensions that do not fit on the
template's sheet of paper.
2-7/8
1/8
~ 50 o
1/4
~ 40o
1-3/16
2-1/8
2-13/16
1-9/16
1-5/8
2-7/8
9/64
Tap #8-32
5/8
7/8
Pinion Bearing
Recess on
Back Side
13/16
1/4
15/16
2-1/2
1/4
4-3/8
3-3/16
7-5/16
6-1/2
6-1/4
5-5/16
4-3/8
3-1/2
3/16
3-1/2
Align This Edge With The Cut End
9/64
Tap #8-32
5/16
1-15/16
1-5/8
2-1/8
5/16
ig
Al
13/16
9/64
Tap #8-32
2-1/2
5-5/8
5/8
8-3/4
1-13/16
2-5/16
6
I
9/64
Tap #8-32
9/64
Tap #8-32
Th
i
17
5/16
7/8
Pinion Bearing
Recess on
Back Side
9/64
Tap #8-32
5/8
13/16
1/4
2-7/8
3/16
2-1/8
2-13/16
1-9/16
1-5/8
15/16
2-1/2
3-3/16
7-5/16
1/4
1-3/16
40o
1/4
3/16
nc
h
ar
at
B
Fl
16
Template, Pinion Stepper

End-Plate
When printing this page from Adobe
Acrobat, in the Page Scaling dialogue box,
choose None.
Shrinking to fit or scaling to fit may alter this
image's print size. Different printers will give
different results, and it may be necessary to adjust the
printer's scaling if the None setting does not work.
This template is for printing on US standard 8.5 x 11 paper.
Be sure to cross check the printed page's actual dimensions with
the dimensions that are printed on this template. The template should
be correctly scaled when the 83/4 inches (222.25 mm) by 75/16 inches
(185.74 mm) are correct on the printed page.
dg
e
ith
~6
13
/
Cut End-PlatesLeadscrew Stepper End

Print the templates and check that they are scaled
correctly.
Cut out the templates, and tape the Leadscrew
Stepper Template to the x 6 inch aluminum flat
bar.
To save labor and stock, align the template so the
long bottom cuts of both end-plates will be on the
same line. See image below.
End-plates' bottoms share a common cut.

The flat bar will have to be flipped for the Pinion
Stepper Template to align with the long cut. This
second template will be taped to the flat bar after
the first aluminum end-plate is cut.
Cut aluminum to match template.
The first cut on the Leadscrew Stepper Template

is the long diagonal 40 degree cut at the bottom of
the end-plate, as shown in the top right photo.
Cutting is a noisy messy process. Wear eye and ear

protection, and cut steadily to keep the aluminum
chips from clogging the blade's teeth.
The aluminum's other edges can be cut with a miter

saw set to 40 or 0 degrees. Rotate the plate and abut
either the ends or the sides to the fence so the cuts
align with the blade. The blade will have to be swiveled to 40 degrees on each side of 0 degrees.
Cut off all of the corners so the aluminum matches

the template.
Rough edges can be dressed by filing or sanding
after the holes are drilled.
Cut End-PlatesPinion Stepper End

Align and tape the pinion stepper end-plate's template onto the aluminum flat bar.
The bottom edge of the template can be aligned
with the long diagonal cut that was previously
made on the aluminum flat bar.
The square end can be cut first, as shown in the
photo on the right.
Cut the end square.
18
Rotate the plate and cut the corner.
Cut the remaining edges.
The stock is next rotated so the just cut square end

abuts the fence, and the aluminum is cut at 40 degrees as shown above.
Finish trimming the other corners of the plate.

Check the templates for alignment, and securely
re-attach them to the flat bar if necessary.
Mark and Drill Holes

Use a center punch to mark all of the hole centers.
Right image.
Punch through the template and make the marks
deep so the drill bits will not wander.
After the holes are punch-marked, drill a inch pilot hole completely through the aluminum on each
plate at the pinion bearing's mark. Image below.
Center punch all of the holes.
This drilling is sequenced in this way because

it is easier to position the inch Forstner bit
in the inch pilot hole than it would be in
the inch through hole.
Drill pinion bearing's pilot.
19
After the pinion bearings' inch pilot holes are

drilled, flip each end-plate over so its template is
underneath the end-plate. Right image.
Drill the inch bearing recess where the pilot hole
pierced the back of each end-plate. Use a inch
Forstner bit. Right Image.
The stock should be securely clamped for drilling.
The bearing recesses should be drilled as deeply
as possible while still leaving enough stock for the
bearings to press against.
Leave around 1/16 inch of stock for the bearings to
abut. This is done by eye.
Take care; the edge of the Forstner bit may cut
deeper than the rest of the bit, and it can cut
through the stock unexpectedly. See the note at the
right bottom of this page.
Flip plate and drill pinion bearing recess.
Drill the 5/8 inch through holes in the recesses after

the recesses are drilled.
The bearings should fit tightly in the recesses. They
can be wrapped with tape or similar to remove any
looseness. The bearings will be installed later.
The recess for the leadscrew's inch bearing should
also be drilled before its inch through hole is
drilled. This inch recess is on the template side
of the end-plate.
Bearing recess.
The other holes can be drilled through the template

from the template side. Leaving the template
attached will make it easier to match the drill bits
to the hole diameters.
Bearing in recess.
Note: If the inch bit accidently drills all

of the way through the stock, screws can be
tapped into the aluminum to serve as stops for
the bearings, as shown below.
The holes are inch unless marked otherwise.

Drilling inch pilot holes at the punch marks
before drilling the larger holes helps to keep the
holes centered.
Many of the inch holes are for #8 and #10
screws. The oversized holes for the small hardware allow clearance for construction offsets
and adjustments.
20
The 1 inch holes in the end-plates are for the

NEMA 23 steppers' 1 inch raised faces. The holes
are oversized to allow for adjustment.
A variety of inexpensive hole saws can be used for
these holes. Image below.
Saws with a named size of 1 inches are often

slightly larger than their stated size, and can work
well.
The teeth in the saw may clog with aluminum.

The saw is backed out of the work frequently to
keep the teeth clean, and to remove clogs as they
happen. Forcing through with dirty saw teeth will
make the clogs worse. It may take a few minutes to
cut these holes.
Jetting compressed air at the saw teeth while cutting can help clear the chips.
Hole saws.
Drilling stepper hole with a hole saw.
The 9/64 inch holes are tapped to #8-32 to make later

construction easier, but these holes can be drilled
larger and not tapped. Nuts will be required with

the machine screws if the holes are not tapped.
Tap 9/64 inch holes with #8-32 tap.
#8-32 tap with tee handle.
The edges of the plates can be cleaned by filing or

sanding. A belt sander makes quick work of the
process. Right image.
The gantry end-plates can be cut, drilled and sanded at this time. These two plates will need to be
fabricated before other work can be done on the
gantry.
There is no need to attach any hardware to the endplates at this time. The components would get in
the way.
Belt sanding the plate's edges.
21
Gantry Beam
The gantry beam is made of 2 feet of 4 x 1.647 x
0.247 inch 6061 T6 aluminum channel.
This 2 foot length was chosen to keep costs low by
eliminating custom cut fees and waste. The 2 foot
length also permits a standard 3 foot leadscrew to
be cut into two pieces for the Y and Z axes.
The gantry beam is cut to length and drilled for the
rails and the end-plate attachment.
A carbide tipped blade on a radial arm or miter saw
can be used to true the ends of the stock should the
factory cuts not be square. Above right image.
The ends can also be squared by filing or sanding.
Channel ends squared with a saw.
Only a fraction is shaved off to leave as much length

as possible, and to keep the blade from chattering.
Limit Switch Holes
As shown on the right, the housings for the gantry limit switches are close to the end-plates. Their
mounting holes would be difficult to drill and tap
with the end-plates installed.
Two holes are drilled at each end of the gantry. One
is inch for the wire, and the other is 9/64 inch and
tapped for a #8-32 screw. Bottom photo.
These four holes for the limit switches can be drilled
and tapped at this time. It is easier to work from the
back of the beam.
Limit switches are optional, but recommended.
Limit switch screw is close to end-plate.
Top Corner of Beam

1
1-1/4 1/4
9/64
#8-32
1/4
5/16
Limit switch holes in gantry beam.
Limit switch holes in end of gantry.
22
Gantry Rails
The gantry beam supports the rails for the carriage's
V bearings. Right image.
The rails are sections of x x inch steel angle.
The angle used for the rails needs to be
straight and smooth with no dented edges.
Stock ordered online has arrived damaged.
The x inch steel angle may be available

locally from home centers where its quality
can be checked before purchasing.
A standard 3 foot length can be cut into a
~2 foot and 1 foot section with one piece
for the gantry and the other for the Z.
Two 3 foot pieces will supply all of the
required steel angle.
Top steel rail on beam.
The values in the dimensioned drawing below are rounded because the rails are not exactly 24 inches long.
These two steel rails are cut slightly short so they will clear the gantry end-plates.
~ 24
1/2
3/4
5-5/8
O11/64
/
5-5/8
12
Hole placement dimensions in steel x x inch angle rail. Two pieces required.
These steel rails should be cut with a hacksaw; they

would damage the carbide blades that can be used
to cut the aluminum.
The locations of the holes in the rails are marked
with a punch.
The holes should be positioned so the heads of the
#8-32 x inch machine screws, which attach the
rails to the beam, will be as close as possible to the
vertical leg of the steel angle.
The fit is close and there is no room for washers
under the heads of the screws.
The holes in the steel angle rails are drilled to 11/64
inch. Right image.
Drill holes in angle.
23
After the steel rails are cut and drilled, their holes
are used as guides for marking and drilling the
matching holes in the gantry beam. Right image.
The faces of the steel angles are spaced 7/16 inch
from the edge of the beam's legs. Their orientation
is shown in the right photos.
A combination square helps with this 7/16 inch spacing. Top image
The holes in the beam can be drilled through the
existing holes in the steel rails. Bottom image.
The rail can be attached to the beam with a single
screw once the first rail hole in the beam is drilled.
This will help to position the rail for further drilling.
The holes in the beam are also 11/64 inch and can be
enlarged for alignment later if needed.
Angle rail holes used to mark holes in beam.
It is easier to drill the rail holes in the beam before

further work is done to the beam, but it is easier
to permanently attach the top steel rail after the
beam's studs for the end-plates have been installed.
The bottom rail can be installed now or later. Use
washers with the nuts. The screws may slightly bend
because of the taper of the aluminum's legs.
The top and bottom steel rails, and the aluminum
channel can be cut and drilled at this time.
Vertical leg is 7/16 inch from channel leg edge.
Steel rail used as guide for drilling 11/64 inch holes in beam.
24
Beam Studs
The end-plates are held to the beam with #10-24 studs that are tapped into the ends of the beam.
Studs in gantry end.
End-plate attached to beam.
The drawing on the right shows the positions of the

holes in the channel beam and end-plates.
The beam is aligned so it covers the center hole in
the end-plate. See arrow in drawing.
The position of this center hole is punch marked

onto the end of the beam as shown in the photo
below.
It is easier to align the beam and end-plate when
the parts are resting upside down on the work surface. The tops of the beam and the end-plates are
flush.
Note that the inch pinion bearing recesses are on

the channel beam side, the inside, of the end-plates.
Beam position on end-plates.
The studs are cut from #10-24 threaded rod.

Course thread (24 rather than 32) is used
because it generally holds better in aluminum, and #10-24 threaded rod is more easily
found.
Studs, unlike screws, can be tightened until
they bottom-out in the holes and are then
less likely to strip threads.
Punch mark center stud hole through gantry end.
25
A inch pilot hole is drilled approximately inch

deep into the end of the beam where the center
mark was punched. Near right image.
The hole is then enlarged to 5/32 inch and tapped for

#10-24 threads. Far right image.
A #10-24 x ~4 inch threaded rod is screwed into
the tapped hole until it can be tightened no farther
without shearing or stripping.
Each stud will be ~1 inch long. It is easier to
install a longer section and to then cut off the
remainder, than it is to initially cut short studs.
The remainder is used for the other two holes.
Drill a 5/32 center hole in beam and tap to #10-24.
Two nuts can be tightened together and then be

used to tighten the stud into the beam, as shown in
the right image. Tightening the nuts together, and
loosening them later, requires a wrench on each nut.
The two nut tightening system is less likely to
damage the studs' threads than using Vise Grips
to turn the studs.
Two nuts tightened against each other.
The nuts are removed from the tightened stud, and

the end-plate is installed with a nut and washer on
this stud.
The end-plate and beam are again aligned as shown

in the beam position drawing on the previous page,
and the stud's nut is tightened to hold the endplate in place.
The excess stud is cut off with a hacksaw. Lower
middle image. The leftover section is used for the
other two holes.
Cut off excess stud with hacksaw.
The other two holes are drilled and tapped. This can
be done with the end-plate on the beam. Bottom
image.
The studs are tightened into place; nuts with washers are installed and the excess stud is cut.
The process is repeated for the other end of the
beam.
The six nuts can all be tightened enough to hold

position, but they are not permanently tightened at
this time. Acorn or cap nuts can be used here if
desired, except a cap nut will not fit on the bottom
stud on the pinion pulley end. It will chafe the belt.
Drill and tap holes with end-plate in place.
26
Review, Gantry Assembly

The gantry beam's steel rails can be tightly installed
at this time.
An end-plate may need to be removed later for installing the pinion axle, so the end-plates do not
need to be tightly attached to the beam at this time.
The gantry at the current stage of construction is
shown on the right.
Gantry with rails and end-plates installed.
The next step is the bearing construction. The position of the X bearings has to be determined before the X axis
can be built. All of the bearings will be assembled while the tools are at hand.
Bearings Overview
Three types of bearings are used on the machine.
These are inch bore V bearings, 7/8 x inch R6
bearings for the leadscrews and X axis rails, and
1 x inch R8 bearings that are used for belt
tensioners.
The gantry is supported by x inch bearings, as
well as V bearings. Right image.
The tensioner for the pinions' belt is made of two
1 x inch bearings. Bottom right image.
The Y and Z axes ride on V bearing. Image below.
All of the bearings are adjusted by rotating their
axles and bushings, which gives nearly inch of
adjustment.
This range of adjustment can be used for axis alignment as well as for bearing tension.
X bearings on gantry end-plate.
Bearings on carriage plate for Y and Z axes.
Pinion belt tensioner is two 1" OD bearings.
27
The bearing adjustment system includes shop built

offset bushings that are installed in the bearings'
and inch bores. Right images.
The axles for the bearings are -20 bolts.
Pins are drilled into the axle bolts to keep the bolts
from freewheeling inside the bushings. Images below.
Offset bushing in V bearing's inch bore.
V bearing clamped on pinned axle bolt.
Bushing Fabrication
Wood dowels or aluminum rods are used for the
bushing stock. Both work well once the machine is
adjusted. However, wood bushings used with the X
bearings may split during bearing adjustment.
1 x inch idler bearings with offset bushing.
The wooden dowel or aluminum rod is pressed into

the bearing before drilling. Since the wood and
aluminum are softer than the bearing, the bearing's bore will help to prevent the bit from tearing
through the side of the bushing stock.
The bushing stock is cut long so it can be clamped
for drilling. Right image.
inch dowel clamped for drilling.
28
A drill press with a vise simplifies this task, image

below, but Vise Grips and a hand held drill will
work.
Drilling bushing in drill press.

Small pilot holes should be drilled before the bushing's holes are enlarged to inch.
Cut bearing from bushing stock after drilling.
Use a punch to mark the offset hole before drilling

the pilot hole. This punch mark can be done by eye.
The dowel or rod is cut flush with the bearing after
the inch hole has been drilled. Top right image.
Axle Bolts Overview
The axles are -20 bolts.
The six bolts for the X axis bearings are 1 inches
long.
The eight bolts for the bearings on the carriage
plate are 1 inches long. These need a long threaded section.
Unthreaded shaft extending beyond X bearings.
There is another 1 inch bolt that supports the

pinion's belt tensioner. This bearing assembly uses
a inch rather than a inch bushing, as shown in
the middle of the previous page.
X Bearing Bolts
The six bolts for the X bearings can be standard
-20 x 1 inch bolts.
The unthreaded section of the bolt shaft may extend beyond the bearing's bore, as shown in both
photos on the right. This is not a problem since nuts
are not directly abutted against the X bearings.
OD bearing on 1 inch bolt.
29
Carriage Plate Bolts
A nut is abutted against each of the eight V bearings that are mounted to the carriage plate, right
image, so these axle bolts have to have a longer
threaded section.
Full thread -20 x 1 inch bolts work well, but
they may not be locally available.
This can be resolved by using a die to cut threads

farther along a standard bolt's shaft as shown below.
Carriage's bearings are between bolt head and nut.
Die used to extend threads on shaft of top bolt.
-20 die with handle.
Longer bolt threads permit nut to abut bearing.

Another option is to use -20 threaded rod, which
can be cut to fit after assembly. Image below.
Cutting threads in bolt.
Threaded rod used as axle.
30
Bolt Pin
The bolt has to be prevented from freewheeling inside its offset bushing, otherwise adjustment of the
bearing tension would be difficult.
A hole is drilled through the axle bolt for a pin that
is cut from a nail or stiff wire. The pin is pressed
into the bore of the bushing when the axle nuts are
tightened.
The drilled hole should match the pin. Choose the
pin stock, then choose the matching drill bit. The
pin can fit loosely.
Small nails serve well. They can be cut with side
cutter pliers, bottom image, or with a hacksaw.
The pins need to be a fraction over inch long so
they scrape into the wall of the bushing without
completely sliding into the hole in the bolt.
The pin has to be far enough from the bolt's head
for a washer to be put on the bolt. The washer
should be put on the bolt before the pin is permanently installed.
Pin inserted into inch axle bolt.
Epoxy Glue Option

Another option is to use epoxy glue instead of a pin
on the eight carriage V bearings. These bearings are
clamped against the bolt head with a nut.
The glue in combination with the nut usually holds
well enough.
The six X bearings are not clamped between nuts,
and epoxy is more likely to break free with these
bearings.
The epoxy has to cure before the bearings are installed on the carriage plate, and care has to be taken to not get glue in the bearings' seals.
Clean excess epoxy immediately after tightening
the nuts and washers in place. Turn the bearings
a while later to break any unwanted residual glue
bonds before they cure.
Cutting nail with side cutters.
31
Bearing Construction Review

There are eight V bearings on the carriage plate.
Their bores are inch, and wood works well
enough for their offset bushings.
These eight axle bolts are 1 inches long and need
to be nearly fully threaded.
These eight bushings can be glued rather than
pinned.
At this time each carriage bearing can be tightened
onto its bolt with a nut. A washer is on each side
of the bearing. The nut can be tightened to its final
setting.
Carriage V bearing assembly. Eight needed.
The pins are dragged into the bore with the tightening of the nuts.
There is also one 1 inch bolt for the belt tensioner.
This bolt does not have to be fully threaded.
Two 1 inch OD by inch ID bearings are
mounted on one axle bolt. Bushing construction is
the same as for the other bearings, but the dowel is
inch in diameter, and there are two bearings on
one bushing.
1 inch tensioner bearings. One set needed.
A washer is used between the bolt's head and the

bearing.
The bolt and pin can be pressed into the bushing by
tightening a nut with a washer against the bearing.
This nut will need to be removed when the idler is
installed on the end-plate.
There are six 1 inch bolts for the X bearings. Two
of these bolts are for x inch bearings, right image. The other four bolts are for V bearings. Bottom
image.
X axis x inch bearings. Two needed.
These bearings do not have nuts abutting them.

There is a washer between the bolt head and bearing.
Aluminum bushings work better with the X bearings, wood may split during the bearing adjustment.
The bolts and pins for the X bearings can be pulled
into the bushings when the bearings are installed
on the end-plates. This is addressed next.
The fifteen bearing assemblies can be made at this
time.
X axis V bearings. Four needed
32
Install X Bearings
Now that the spacing of the gantry's bearings is

fixed, the X table bed can be built. The distance
between these X bearings determines the placement of the X rails. The rails' position determines
the location of the pinions, so the pinions will be
installed later.
The bearings are held in the end-plates with nuts

and washers.
The V bearings are installed in the bottom holes in
the plates as shown in the photos.
The inch bearings are above the front V bearings.
The pinions will serve as the top bearings on the
back of the gantry. The opposing V bearings will
pull the pinions into the racks.
The inch top bearings use two washers between
the bearing and the end-plate. Right image.
The V bearings on the X have a single washer between the bearing and the end-plate. Right image.
Lock washers under the axle nuts are helpful but
not mandatory.
The bearings can be installed in the end-plates now.
The pins are pulled into the bushings as the nuts are
tightened against the end-plate washers.
The nuts will be loosened later when the bearings
are adjusted on the X rails.
Washers with bearings.
Bearings on gantry end-plate.
33
X Rack and Rail Overview

Each of the two racks is mounted between a x
inch steel flat bar rail and a 2 x 3 x inch 6063 T52
aluminum angle. #8-32 x 1 inch machine screws
tie the components together. Right images.
The racks are 24 inches long, and the steel rails and
aluminum angles are 30 inches long. Therefore, one
screw at the end of each rail serves as a standoff to
secure the rail. Bottom photo.
Matching holes have to be drilled in the racks, rails
and angles. For the machine to perform well, these
holes need to be accurately aligned.
Rack and rail tied to aluminum angle, inside view.
The racks are drilled first. Their holes are used as

guides to position the holes in the steel rails and the
aluminum angles.
Cut and Drill Racks.
Two 24 inch sections of rack are used. These can
be purchased pre-cut to length, or they can be cut
from longer stock.
The pre-cut sections may arrive from the supplier
slightly longer than 24 inches, which is not a problem. The extra length can be left on the stock. Likewise, a 50 inch section could be cut into two 25
inch pieces, for example.
Rail on rack and angle, back outside view.
The racks are punch marked and drilled as shown

in the dimensioned drawing below. Pilot holes are
drilled before the 11/64 inch holes are drilled.
The spacing between the holes can vary from that
shown. Five relatively evenly spaced screws will
support each rack.
It is important for the heads and nuts of the screws
to not interfere with the bearings or pinions, so the
3/16 inch hole center distance from the bottom of
the rack, as shown in the drawing, needs to be true.
The holes in the racks can be punched-marked and
Machine screw as a standoff. Front outside view.

24
3/16
1/2
5-3/4
11/64 12
5-3/4
Drill holes in rack.
34
1/2
Cut and Drill Steel Rails.

The x inch steel flat bar rails are cut to 30 inches and drilled to match the racks.
One hole is drilled in each steel rail at inch from
the end, as shown in the drawing below.
30
3/8
3/8
3/4
3/4
O11/64
1/2
Drill holes in ends of flat bar.
Holes in ends of steel rails.

Another hole is drilled in the other end of each rail
at inch from the end. This second hole is for the
standoff screw as shown on the bottom of the previous page.
The holes need to be well aligned. Use a punch to
mark their centers, and drill to 11/64 inch. Pilot holes
are helpful.
Rack is screwed to flat bar rail.
The rack is attached to the rail with a machine

screw in the hole that is inch from the end. Upper middle image.
Each rail is aligned with its rack, and drilled through
the previously drilled holes in the rack.
This alignment can be done by eye if care is taken.
A combination square set to the offset can be helpful.
Rail extends 1/16 inch above rack's teeth.
The rack is not centered on the rail. The rail extends

above the rack's teeth 1/16 inch so the top X bearing will not ride on the rack's teeth. Lower middle
image.
Vise Grips in addition to the machine screw can be
used to hold the parts in alignment while the rail is
drilled. Bottom right image.
The two steel rails can be cut and drilled at this
time. Use tape or marker to match the rails with
their racks so their positioning will not be confused
later.
Align parts, drill through holes in rack into rail.
35
Aluminum Angle, Overview
The racks and rails are supported by 2 x 3 x inch

aluminum angles that are cut to 30 inches long.
Holes that match the holes in the rails and racks are
drilled in the 3 inch legs of the angles by using the
racks and rails as guides.
Holes are also drilled in the 2 inch legs of the aluminum angles for the hardware that ties these angles to the table bed.
Aluminum angles supporting the racks and rails.
The two 2 x 3 aluminum angles mirror each other.

Drill Aluminum for Legs
It may be easier to drill the holes, which are

1 inch from the edge, from the bottom of
the aluminum angle. Otherwise, the vertical 3
inch leg may get in the way of the drill chuck.
These holes are inch from the leg's outside
edge, as shown in the drawing.
The holes in the 2 inch legs are drilled first.
These holes are for 1/4 inch studs that are cut from
1/4-20 threaded rod. These holes are drilled to 9/32
inch or larger to allow room for construction offsets.
The holes in the ends are mirrored from each

other. The drawing below only shows the holes
in one end and in the middle.
The placement of these holes is not as critical as the

holes for the racks, though they do need to align
with the 2 x 3 tubing legs. These holes will need to
be located differently when 2x4 wood is used for
the legs.
Middle and end holes drilled in 2 inch leg of 2 x 3 aluminum angle.

30
5/8
2
1-3/8
1/2
1/2
O9/32
3
15
Holes in 2 inch leg of aluminum angle. Left end (not shown) is mirrored from the right end shown above.
36
The holes' positions are measured, punch marked

and drilled as shown in the drawing on the previous page.
The holes in each end are mirrored from the other
end.
The 2 inch legs of these two angles are drilled the
same.
The aluminum can be cut to 30 inches, and the 2

inch legs of the angle can be drilled at this time.
Drill Aluminum for Rack
Drilling the 2 x 3 angle from the bottom.
The holes for the racks and rails can be drilled after
the holes in the 2 inch legs are drilled.
30
A single hole is first drilled in the 3 inch leg of

each angle. The location of the hole is shown in the
drawing on the right.
1/2
3/16
O11/64
The rack is then screwed to the aluminum angle

through this hole, and the rack is used to position
the remaining holes. This is similar to the process
used to position the holes in the steel rails.
It is important that the two aluminum rails mirror each other. Therefore, the hole in one of the 2
x 3 angles will be at the opposite end from the one
shown on the right.
The rack should be checked for positioning before
other holes are drilled in the aluminum angle.
The bottom of the rack's teeth should be a fraction

above the edge of the aluminum angle. This will
prevent the pinion from riding on the aluminum,
bottom image, while parts are being aligned later.
Drill hole for rack in end of aluminum angle.

Important: The al. angles mirror each other.
The rack is on the same side of the 3 inch leg as the

2 inch leg. Image on next page.
Mark the racks, rails and angles with tape or

similar so their matching holes will not be confused.
Check that pinion clears the edge of the angle.
37
Spacers of ~2 inch can be used to position the

rack on the aluminum angle. These can be cut from
scrap wood. Right image.
Though optional, the spacers can make alignment

easier. The spacers can be used now for positioning the drill holes, and later for the assembly of the
racks and rails.
The holes are drilled through the existing holes in
the racks and into the aluminum. Middle right image. The rack is held in place with the single machine screw and Vise Grips or similar.
Spacer used to position rack on aluminum angle.

The rack is on the leg side of the angle.
Attach Racks and Rails to Angle
The racks and rails are attached to the aluminum

angle with #8-32 x 1 inch screws after the holes
have been drilled. The screw heads are on the steel
rail side, the nuts are on the aluminum side.
The tails of the screws will need to be cut off. One
inch screws are barely too short for the nuts to
thoroughly grip the threads. Washers are not used
with these screws because of tight clearances.
Standoff Screw for Rail
The end hole for the rail's standoff screw is drilled

after the components are attached to the aluminum
angle. The rail's hole is used as a guide. Image below.
Drill holes in aluminum through the holes in the

rack.
A machine screw is installed with nuts that sandwich the rail and the aluminum angle to support
the rail. Bottom right images.
Rack and rail assemblies with standoff screws. The

rail assemblies mirror each other. The above image
is looking at the front of the rails.
Drill hole in aluminum using steel rail as a guide.
38
Review, Rack and Rail

At this time the racks and rails are well aligned and
tightly secured to the 2 x 3 aluminum angle.
The tails of the machine screws that tie the racks
and rails together are cut off flush with the nuts.
Holes are drilled in the angles' 2 inch legs for table
bed attachment.
These leg holes can be used as guides for marking
the matching holes in the legs and table bed.
The legs are made next.
Completed rail assembly. Back view.
X Axis Legs
The aluminum angles are supported by 2 x 3 x
inch 6063 T52 rectangular aluminum tubing that
is cut in 4 inch sections. There are 6 legs, which
require a total of 2 feet of tubing.
Wooden plugs are cut and driven into the ends of
the tubes to add rigidity. The thin walled aluminum
will flex otherwise. Thicker walled 2 x 3 inch aluminum can be used. The plugs are still helpful.
Wood can also be used for these legs, and 2x3 or
2x4 stock will work. However, the stock will not
be flush with the aluminum angle since 2x stock is
only 1 inches wide.
Cut tube into six 4 inch sections.
Larger wooden stock can be cut or planed to 2 x 3

inches to replace the aluminum tube. This was done
on a prototype and it worked well, but it requires a
plane or a stationary saw to size the pieces consistently.
The 24 inch section of aluminum tube is cut into six
4 inch pieces. This can be done with a carbide blade
in a miter saw as was done with the gantry ends.
Middle image.
The cut edges are filed or sanded clean.
Wooden blocks are cut to match the inside of the
tube. Right image. The blocks should be cut to fit
tightly.
Cut blocking for tube.
39
A variety of stock can be used. inch thick solid

wood works well since it is less likely to delaminate,
unlike MDF or plywood, but MDF and ply have
served well enough.
The previously drilled leg attachment holes in the 2
x 3 angle were positioned so their studs will clear
inch thick stock in these legs.
The edges of the wooden blocks can be beveled by
cutting, sanding, or rasping so the blocks will more
easily fit into the ends of the tube.
Drive blocks in with mallet or hammer and board.
The blocks are driven into the tube with a mallet,

or a hammer with a board to protect the wood. Top
images.
The legs are drilled to match the holes in the base
of the 2 x 3 aluminum angles.
The ends of the legs are flush with the ends of the
angles. The middle legs are centered on the 2 x 3
aluminum. The long edges of all legs align with the
2 x 3 angle.
The holes can be drilled oversized to make alignment easier. Holes of inch work well. The holes
are through the top and bottom of each leg.
Mark and drill holes in legs
These six legs can be cut, blocked and drilled at this

time.
Table Bed
The table bed is made of inch plywood with 2x3
bracing screwed and glued to its bottom. The 2x3
helps stiffen the machine.
Plywood is stiffer than MDF. Cabinet rather than
sheathing ply is recommended, but a well chosen
section of sheathing ply can be just as solid. Sheathing ply is coarser and has fewer layers than cabinet
plywood.
Completed X bed with 1x4 tee slots. The 2x3 base

boards are painted black in the above image.
thickness of the V bearings' washers, and the condition of the 2 x 3 aluminum angle and the 6 inch
flat bar. Therefore, it is better to take a real world
measurement of the positions of the components
than to use the designed values.
Optional tee slots can be attached to the top of the

plywood, These will be addressed after the machine
is assembled.
The table bed is cut to size. However, there are
variables that will affect the width of the machine.
These include the length of the gantry beam, the
Taking a measurement is the next step.
40
Measure Width
Place the gantry on top of the rails so the V bearings are centered on the rails.
The bearings will ultimately ride underneath the
rails, but this on top position works for now.
Measure the distance from outside leg to outside
leg as shown below.
With a 24 inch gantry, this dimension will be
around 25 inches. The final tightening of components can alter this dimension, so it is recommended to round up this number, to 26 in this case.
Right image.
Round the width upward, to 26 in. for example.
The plywood base is cut to this width.
The length of the plywood base is the same as the 2

x 3 inch aluminum angle, 30 inches.
Cut the plywood to 26 x 30 inches. Take care to
make the cuts square.
Measure outside leg width.

Install 2x3 Frame
Position the 2 x 3 angles on the plywood so they are

at the actual, not rounded, distance that was measured previously. A fraction of plywood reveal can
be left outside both angles.
Mark the leg attachment holes that were drilled in

the angles onto the plywood. Image below.
This is done now so the 2x3 wood base attachment
screws will not accidently be installed where the leg
stud holes need to be.
Cut two 2x3 pieces to width of plywood. (26 in.)

Align these pieces underneath the plywood so they
are flush with the plywood. Image below.
Mark leg hole positions on plywood.
Measure distance between 2x3 boards.
Cut two 2x3 boards (2x4 boards will also work)

to 26 inches to match the width of the plywood.
Above right image.
Measure the distance between these two boards

and cut two other pieces to fit along the sides of
the table.
41
1. Screw and glue these four pieces onto the bottom

of the plywood. 1 inch drywall screws work well.
Countersink the screws.
Work on a flat surface to help ensure that the table
bed is flat and level.
2. Drill pilot holes through the plywood and 2x3

frame at the stud hole locations that were previously marked on the plywood.
3. Flip the table bed upside down and drill inch

recesses for the tee nuts into the 2x3 frame at the
pilot holes. The recesses can be ~ inch deep.
4. Enlarge the pilot holes to 5/16 inch for the studs.
5. Cut -20 threaded rod into ten 5 inch sections,

and thread a tee nut onto each stud.
6. With a wrench or nut driver, tighten a nut with a

washer against the plywood to pull the tee nut into
its recess.
Install the ten tee nuts.
42
This is the easiest time to sand and varnish or paint the legs, table
bed and frame. Parts will be attached to the plywood base next.
Thread the studs into the tee nuts and install the
legs and rails. Washers are used with the top nuts.
Cap nuts look nice but are not required.
For reference: The racks extend to the back of the

machine; they end ~6 inches from the front of the
machine.
The pinion assembly will be done from the back of

the table bed where the ends of the racks are more
accessible.
Align one rail with the plywood edge. Leave a

slight reveal to match the positioning that was determined earlier.
The pinions have to be put on the gantry before the

gantry can be attached to the rails.
The pinion assembly is addressed next.
Tighten this one rail assembly into place. This can

be either rail.
The other rail assembly is put on its legs and studs,
but its nuts are left loose at this time.
The above image is of the back of the table bed.
43
Pinion Axle Components, Overview

The gantry is moved by pinions on racks. The pinions are on a inch diameter steel axle. Each end
of the axle is supported by a x inch bearing.
The bearings are in recesses in the gantry endplates. Top two images.
A spacer is placed between each pinion and its
bearing. Upper middle image. These spacers lock
the bearings and axle into place, which prevents the
axle from wandering from end to end.
Pinion on rack.
This pinion-spacer-bearing layout removes the

need for collar clamps on the pinion axle.
The spacer has to be small enough in diameter to
clear the X rail, which passes close to the axle near
the bearing. Stacked washers would be too large for
this purpose.
Plumbing compression sleeves for inch OD faucet risers work well for this spacer, as do copper
couplers for inch ID pipe. Lower middle image.
Pinion with spacer and bearing.
These components can be cut, filed or sanded to the

necessary length.
A flattened lock washer also works well as a spacer
when additional spacing is needed. This will depend on how deeply the bearing is recessed in the
end-plate.
The stepper drives the axle via a belt and two pulleys. A 3 to 1 ratio is achieved with a 12 tooth pulley on the stepper, and a 36 tooth pulley on the pinion axle. The pulleys are on the outside of the gantry
end-plates. Images below.
inch coupler and inch compression sleeve.
Pulley end of pinion axle with sleeve.
Pinion pulleys and belt.
44
Pinion Set Screws

Set screws have to be installed in the pinions.
#10-32 x inch screws serve well, but other sizes
will work.
Longer set screws will protrude from the pinion
and hit the aluminum angle that supports the rack.
A little of the top of a inch long set screw can be
filed off so there will be no interference. It is important to leave enough of the hex socket for the Allen
wrench to grab.
Set screw is away from the pinion's teeth.
The set screws should be installed near the pinion's

end, away from the pinion's teeth, so they will not
hit the rack as the pinion turns.
The position of the set screw is punch marked onto
the pinion and a inch pilot hole is drilled. The
hole is enlarged for the tap. A 5/32 inch hole works
with a #10 tap, and a 9/64 inch hole works with a #8
tap.
Set screws can be installed in the pinions at this
time.
Drill and tap pinion for set screw.
Pinion Axle
The pinion axle is a inch diameter steel rod that
is cut to at least 26 inches long. It has to be long
enough to fit through both end-plates and to support the pulley, which is on the outside of the endplates.
The rod can be longer to support a knob on either or
both ends of the gantry. The rod can be cut shorter
once the machine is assembled.
Cut inch steel rod to length.
Steel is preferred for this axle; an aluminum rod

will bend and twist more.
The rod should be straight. Buying locally rather
than online permits a pre-purchase quality check.
The ends of the rods may have to be filed or sanded
for the bearings and pinions to fit. A belt sander
removes excess stock quickly. Take care; it is easy
to remove too much metal so the rod rattles in the
bearings, or so the pinion is off-center.
The axle can be cut to length and filed so the pinions and bearings can be slid over each end.
Sand or file ends of rod so bearings fit.
45
Pinion Axle Construction

It is easier to determine the size of the pinion spacer
before the axle is installed. This requires the gantry
to be on the X rails, which is addressed now.
Rotate the V bearings so they are in their lowest
position on their bushings, and tighten them firmly
against the end-plates.
Place the gantry on the rails by sliding the rails between the inch top bearings and the bottom V
bearings. Top image.
Gantry with X rails between bearings.
The X rail assembly that was left loose is moved on

the plywood so the V bearings are centered on the
rails.
It is helpful to hold the gantry in place with a
piece of scrap wood wedged under the end-plate
as shown on the right. The pinions are not in place,
and the gantry will fall without this blocking. This
blocking firmly presses the back V bearing into the
rail so the spacing for the pinion can be measured.
Slide a bearing and a pinion onto a inch bolt, a
scrap of dowel or similar. Third image. Using a short
bolt is easier than trying to work with the long tight
fitting axle. The bolt is not required to make this
measurement, but it helps to hold the parts in line.
Use scrap block to lift V bearings into rails.
The pinions' set screws can be removed and set

aside. They would get in the way.
Press the bearing into its recess, align the pinion
with the rack, and measure the distance between
the pinion and the bearing bore. Last image.
Slide pinion and bearing onto a bolt.
In the example shown here, the ~5/16 inch distance

can be filled with a plumbing compression sleeve
and a flattened lock washer, top image next page.
As mentioned previously, a inch copper coupler
can be used for this spacing. It would have to be cut,
sanded or filed to length.
Determine this measure for both pinions, and assemble their spacers. It may take a few attempts to
achieve the correct length of spacer.
Measure length needed for spacer.
46
Slide the properly spaced parts onto each end of the

axle rod. Top image.
Remove the gantry from the X rails, and install the
axle in the gantry. Second image.
If the bearings are very tight on the axle, remove
one of the end-plates to install the axle. This is easier than sliding the tight bearings back and forth
on the axle.
Pinion, sleeve, washer and bearing on axle.
The bearings should fit tightly in their recesses.

They can be wrapped with tape or similar to fill
any voids. Foil HVAC tape works well for this, but
masking or plastic electrical tape will do. Glue is
not recommended; it can cure with the bearing out
of alignment. Loctite can be applied after the machine is completely assembled.
Axle and pinions installed in gantry.
The axle needs to extend ~1 inch beyond the pinion

stepper end-plate for the pulley.
The pinion stepper end-plate is the one without a
recess for the leadscrew bearing. Third image.
The clearance between the pulley and the V bearing's axle nut is close. Image below. The flanges of
some pulleys will scrape against the nut.
Pinion pulley end of gantry.
Close clearance between pulley flange and nut.

The flange can be filed or sanded to fit. A belt sander makes short work of this. Right image. Take care;
the stock from plastic pulleys can be removed very
quickly.
The pulley can be installed now. It is spaced ~1/16
inch from the end-plate. It may have to be aligned
differently when the belt is installed later. It will be
used as a knob during the next steps.
It may be necessary to sand down pulley flange.
47
Adjust Bearings and Pinions

Once the axle is in the gantry, the gantry is reinstalled onto the X axis rails.
In the next steps:
The V bearings will be firmly pressed into and centered on their rails.
The pinions will be tensioned against their racks.
The gantry beam will be squared with the table bed
and the X rails.
Back view of gantry on X rails.
At present, one X rail is firmly attached to the plywood table bed. The other rail is in place but can be
moved.
The pinions' set screws are still set aside. The pinions should be centered on their racks. Right image.
The pinions' bearings are fixed and cannot be adjusted, so adjustments will begin with the V bearings that are underneath the pinions.
Start on the side of the machine with the rail that is
already tightened to the table bed.
Use a wrench to turn the V bearing axle so the

pinion is firmly against its rack. Third image. Use
a second wrench to tighten the axle's nut so the V
bearing will hold its position.
The pinions are aligned on their racks.
The pinion should be able to roll on the rack without much resistance.
Do the same for the V bearing on the loose rail

side of the machine. As the pinion's V bearing is
tightened, move the loose X rail so the pinion's V
bearing is centered on the rail. Bottom right photo.
Align the back aluminum legs and the 2 x 3 aluminum angle so they are flush with the back of the
plywood table bed. Image below.
Tighten the back of the rail onto the table bed with
the -20 nut that is closest to the rail end.
Adjusting the V bearings.
Tighten the back most leg nut.
Rail centered in V bearing.
48
Move the gantry to the front of the table and align

the rails. Take care; the pinions are not fixed on the
axle, so they may wander.
Tighten the remaining leg nuts on the X rail angle.
Top image.
Loosen the #10 stud-nuts on both of the gantry
end-plates enough for the end-plates to be able to
move independently of the gantry beam. Second
photo.
Tighten legs with gantry at front of table.
Adjust the end-plates' front top and V bearings so

they firmly ride their rails. Third photo.
This adjustment should not significantly alter the
pinions' tension on the racks. Forcing the front of
the end-plates too far up or down will change the
pinion tension.
Square Gantry to Table Bed
Use a square to align the beam vertically with the

bed. Bottom image. This is done from the front of
the gantry; the pinion axle would be in the way on
the back of the gantry.
Loosen gantry studs' #10 nuts.
Tighten the beam's #10 stud-nuts to secure the

vertically aligned gantry beam.
If there is not enough play between the studs
and the end-plate holes for the beam to be
squared, the front bearings can be slightly readjusted.
If there still is not enough adjustment space
with the front bearings, the stud holes in the
end-plates can be enlarged. This will require
disassembling the gantry.
Adjust front bearings.
It is possible to use shims with the Z axis' V

bearings to make the Z axis vertical, but it is
better to true the gantry beam.
If the ends of the gantry beam are out of
square enough to prevent the V bearings from
riding well on the rails, shims can be placed
between the end-plates and the gantry beam
for alignment. Thin metal cut from aluminum
drink cans works well as shim stock.
Use square to align gantry beam with table bed.
49
Square Gantry to Rails
Move the gantry to the back of the table.

Install the set screw in the pinion that is at the end
opposite from the axle pulley.
Align the pinion with the rack and tighten its set
screw. Top image. The pinion should abut or nearly
abut its spacer.
Align the gantry so it is parallel with the back of
the table bed. The positions of the pinions on the
racks can serve as a guide; they should be aligned
the same on each rack. A straight edge can be used
to align the pinion with the base and legs. Middle
image.
Tighten pinion's set screw.
The pulley can be used to turn the one pinion so it

pulls one end of the gantry into alignment with the
other. Bottom image. The axle will freewheel in the
loose pinion near the pulley.
The second pinion's set screw is installed and tightened when the gantry is aligned.
The gantry should now smoothly move on the rails
with drag only from the pinions' pressure in the
racks.
Using a straight edge to align pinions.
The V bearings will need to be adjusted as the rails

wear. Uneven sections of rail will be smoothed by
the movement of the bearings over time. The rails
can be sanded or filed to remove minor bumps.
The axis may have stiff movement in some areas of
the travel. This is often because of slight misalignment of the rack and rail. With use, the bearings
will press tracks into the rails to compensate for the
misalignment.
The bearings should be tight enough to not rattle
on the rails, but not so tight as to cause drag.
Using the pulley as a knob to turn a pinion.
The bearings are too loose if they can be kept from

turning by pinching them with fingers. Just a little
tighter than this has served well.
The gantry may still be slightly out of square

after these initial adjustments.
Test cuts can be run once the machine is operating.
The pinions can again be adjusted to bring the
gantry into square. Loosening one pinion and
hand turning the pulley to turn the other pinion
works well for further adjustment.
A quick bearing tension check can be done by grabbing the gantry and rocking it forward and backward. There should be no play or clicking sounds as
the bearings and pinions are pulled to and from the
rails and racks.
The stepper could be installed now, but the wires
would be in the way, so the carriage is built next.
50
Carriage Overview
The carriage travels on the gantry, and supports the

Z components.
Its body is a 7 inch long section of x 6 inch aluminum flat bar.
Attached to this are the V bearings for both the

horizontal Y motion and the vertical Z movement.
The Y leadnut is attached to the back of the carriage plate and the Z leadnut is attached to the
front. Images below.
Front of carriage on gantry.
Back of carriage, removed from gantry.
Carriage on gantry with Z axis.
51
Carriage Plate Construction

The x 6 inch flat bar is cut to length and drilled.
The remaining piece from the aluminum that was
used for the end-plates is cross cut so its ends are
square. Right image.
The template is taped onto the stock, and the holes
are punch marked.
The small holes are for optional limit switch components. They are all 9/64 inch, and tapped to #8-32.
Two other holes for the Z limit switch are needed,
but their positions are determined after the machine is operating. They can be drilled with the machine assembled.
Cut flat bar to 7 inches.

Z bearings are on the front and Y bearings are on
the back. All of these holes are inch.
The image below is not to scale.
The holes' purposes are printed on the image below.

The V bearings are designated with their axis letter.
6
1-1/8
2-7/16
3/8
1/2
2-7/16
Z
7/8
Z Leadnut
On Front
1
2-1/2
2-13/16
Y Limit
Probe
9/64
Tap #8-32
1-1/8
Y Limit Probe
3/8
1/2
1-1/8
Z Limit Wire
Support
1/2
Y Leadnut
On Back
1-3/8
This drawing is not to scale.

A full scale template is on the
following page.
O1/4
Z
5/8
1/2
52
5/8
2-13/16
Carriage Template
The metal can be cut, punch-marked and drilled

at this time. Drill pilot holes before drilling the
inch holes.
Check the 6 x 7 inch dimensions of the printed
template before using.
The stock is x 6 inch aluminum flat bar that is

cut to 7 inches.
The large holes are all inch. The small holes are
for limit switch components; they are 9/64 inch and
tapped to #8-32.
6
1-1/8
2-7/16
3/8
1/2
2-7/16
3/8
1/2
7/8
1
2-1/2
1-1/8
9/64
Tap #8-32
2-13/16
1-1/8
1/2
O1/4
1-3/8
2-13/16
1
5/8
1/2
5/8
53
Drill Carriage Plate
The template is taped to the metal, and the holes

are punch marked. Image below.
Pilot holes are drilled at the punch marks. The holes
are then drilled to their final size. Right photos.
Drill pilot holes
Punch mark hole centers in aluminum.
Drill holes.
Install Carriage V Bearings

The V bearings with their axles and offset bushings
have already been assembled. Right image. There
are eight bearings, four each for the Y and Z axes.
The Y bearings are closest to the plate's corners and
are installed on the back.
The bearings are installed with washers sandwiching the aluminum plate as shown in the bottom image.
Carriage V bearing assembly.
The bearings are close to each other, and an extra

washer is installed as a spacer with the Z bearings.
See arrow in bottom image.
The extra washers prevent the bolt threads from
scraping the neighboring bearings.
These extra washers also space the Z axis away from
the carriage, which gives more clearance for the
leadnut.
Lock washers can also be used under the nuts, if
there is room. The fit is close. Image on next page.
All eight bearings can be attached to the carriage.
Extra washer between plate and nut on Z bearing.
54
Install Carriage on Gantry

The back Y bearings are rotated so they are as far
apart as possible. The carriage is hung from the top
gantry rail by the top V bearings.
The optional Z limit switch's wire and tube are
attached to a screw in the carriage plate. The
carriage will have to be removed from the gantry later if the wire and tube are not attached
to the screw now. See page 85.
The bottom bearings may have to be loosened to
clear the bottom rail.
Optional lock washer.
Once the Vs of all of the Y bearings straddle the

gantry rails, the bearings' axle bolts are turned to
tension the bearings against the rails.
The carriage is abutted to a gantry end-plate to
check for alignment. Image below. The gap between
the carriage and the end-plate should be parallel.
Bearings on carriage plate.
Carriage to end-plate gap should be even.
The top bearings are rotated to align the carriage.

The bottom bearings are then adjusted to remove
the play between the bearings and the rails. The
carriage should travel smoothly along the gantry.
Two wrenches are used to tighten the bearing's axle
into place. One wrench on the axle bolt's head prevents the axle from turning, while the other wrench
is used to tighten the nut. Bottom right image.
The carriage is installed and aligned at this time,
and the bearings' tension is adjusted so the carriage
moves well.
Two wrenches used to tighten axles.
55
Y Leadnut Bracket
The Y leadnut is supported by a 1 x 1 x inch section of aluminum angle that is cut to 1 inches
long. Right image.
Two holes are drilled and tapped in one leg of the
angle bracket for #8-32 x inch machine screws,
images below, which tie the bracket to the carriage
plate.
Leadnut on angle bracket on back of carriage.
#8-32 x inch screws threaded into angle.

These screws fit in the inch holes in right edge
of the carriage plate. Right image. The oversized
holes permit adjustments. Nuts with washers tie
the screws to the plate.
The other leg of the aluminum angle bracket is
drilled for the leadnut's support screws, and for the
Y leadscrew. Images below.
Nuts on leadnut bracket screws, front view.
Leadnut attached to angle.

The flange of the leadnut is drilled and tapped for
#8-32 x inch screws, which tie the leadnut to the
angle bracket.
The oversized holes in the aluminum angle bracket
permit adjustment. Threading the machine screws
into the leadnut makes adjustments easier than
working with freewheeling screws.
Leadnut with screws tapped into flange.
56
Bracket Construction, Carriage Leg

The x 1 inch aluminum angle is cut to 1 inches
long. The two threaded holes can be drilled first as
shown on the photo and drawing on the right.
To ensure proper alignment, the bracket is held
behind the carriage while match marks are scribed
through the holes in the plate. Images below.
The edge of the angle bracket's leg is flush with the
edge of the carriage plate, as shown in the image at
the top of the previous page.
Carriage leg of Y leadnut angle bracket.
1/2
3/16
O9/64
Tap #8-32
1-3/4
Place bracket behind carriage plate.
3/16
1
Dimensions of carriage leg of Y leadnut bracket.
The actual hole locations should be close to the designed dimensions shown in the above drawing.
Threading the screws into these two holes

in the bracket will make adjustments much
easier.
Mark hole locations.
Were the screws allowed to freewheel in

larger holes, it would be necessary to position a screwdriver behind the carriage plate
while parts were being aligned.
Once the holes are marked, they are punched,

drilled and tapped.
The #8-32 x inch screws will be installed later.
57
Construction, Leadnut and Angle Bracket
O9/64
Tap
#8-32
The holes in the leadnut leg of the bracket have to

match the screws that are installed in the leadnut;
therefore, the leadnut is drilled and tapped before
the matching screw holes in the bracket are drilled.
1/8
1
1-1/4
Drill Leadnut
1/8
Tapped holes in leadnut flange.
The two 9/64 inch holes in the leadnut are drilled as

shown in the top drawing. They are then tapped for
#8-32 x inch screws. The screws are not installed
yet.
5/16
3/8
Drill Angle Bracket's Leadscrew Hole
The inch hole in the aluminum angle is punch

marked and drilled as shown in the drawing on the
right. Only the inch hole is drilled at this time.
7/8
1-3/4
1/2
A pilot hole is drilled, and the drill size is incrementally stepped up to inch when twist drills are
used instead of a Forstner bit. This helps to keep the
hole centered.
1/4
3/8
Holes in leadnut leg of angle.
This inch hole can be drilled now.

Check Alignment
Before further work is done, the position of the

leadnut bracket's leadscrew hole is checked with
the machine. Adjustments can more easily be addressed now should parts be out of alignment.
The inch machine
screws are tightened
into the angle as
shown on the near
right, and the angle is
attached to the carriage plate as shown
on the far right.
Leadnut bracket attached to carriage.
The alignment of the

bracket is viewed by
looking through the
leadscrew holes in the end-plates. Bottom right
image.
The holes should all remain in alignment as the carriage is moved from end to end on the gantry. Offset adjustment is addressed on the next page.
The bracket is removed from the carriage when the
alignment is correct.
View of aligned leadnut angle bracket.
58
Adjusting Offsets
Shims can be installed between the angle bracket

and the carriage plate.
A vertical offset can be addressed by moving

the angle bracket up and down on the carriage
plate.
Washers can be added or removed between the V

bearings' axle nuts and the carriage plate.
The holes in the carriage plate can be enlarged

for further adjustment.
The rails can also be moved by enlarging the machine screw holes in the gantry beam and the steel
rails.
The V bearings can be rotated on their offset

bushings to move the entire carriage plate up
and down.
These remedies were not necessary on the prototypes that used the dimensions in these plans. But
offsets happen.
A horizontal offset can be altered by elongating

the inch hole in the angle bracket.
Drill Bracket's Leadnut Screw Holes
The leadnut's leadscrew hole is centered over the

inch hole in the bracket. The positions of the
flange's screw holes are then scribed onto the aluminum angle bracket. Right image.
The holes' locations are punch-marked, and pilot
holes are drilled. The holes are then drilled larger
to inch.
The oversized inch holes permit adjustment of
the leadnut.
Mark hole positions on angle bracket.
Install Leadnut and Bracket
The inch screws are threaded into the leadnut,

and the leadnut is loosely attached to the bracket
with nuts and washers. Image below.
Leadnut on bracket.
Leadnut with bracket attached to carriage.
The bracket and leadnut assembly is then loosely attached to the carriage. Right image above.
59
Leadscrew Bearing Flange

Both ends of the Y leadscrew are supported with
bearings. The bearing on the stepper end is recessed
in the end-plate and cannot be adjusted.
The bearing at the other end of the leadscrew is
supported in a shop made flange, which permits the
leadscrew to be aligned with the movement of the
carriage. Right image.
Bearing flange with bearing and collar clamp.
The flange can be made from a variety of materials.

Stock ranging in thickness between 3/16 and 3/8 inch
works well.
Kitchen cutting board plastic works well, and is less
costly than Delrin, though it does not cut and drill
as cleanly.
Hardboard flange, and flange with bearing.
Aluminum and tempered hardboard have also

served well. The flange shown on the right is made
of 3/16 inch tempered hardboard.
9/16
9/16
5/16
Plywood and solid wood may tear, since the flange

is small and thin.
1-1/4
2-1/2
A inch recess is drilled for the bearing. The bottom of the bearing recess should be around inch
thick. This will prevent the flange from tearing
through and off-setting in the hole in the end-plate
should the leadscrew not be centered in the endplate hole.
1-7/8
5/8
7/8
Recess
5/16
1/4
1-1/8
The recess's walls only have to be deep enough to

hold the bearing in place. The radial loads on the
bearing should be minimal.
Y bearing flange dimensions.
The flange is held in place with #8-32 x inch

screws, bottom image. These can be threaded into
the end-plate. Nuts and washers hold the flange in
place.
The flange can be cut, drilled and loosely installed
at this time.
#8-32 x inch flange screws in end-plate.
60
Leadscrew Installation
The machine was sized to use a 36 inch leadscrew
that is cut into two pieces with no remainder. One
section is for the Y axis and the other is for the Z.
The lengths are 27 and 8 inches. The longer
piece extends beyond the end-plates enough to
support a knob. The knob can be installed on either
end of the gantry.
Leadscrew with bearing, flange and collar clamp.
The 27 inch leadscrew is passed through either

end-plate and threaded through the leadnut. It is
then twisted to feed through the leadnut and to
pass through the other end-plate.
The bearing is installed in its flange, and a collar
clamp is threaded onto the leadscrew. Top image.
The bearing at the stepper end of the leadscrew is
pressed into its recess. Second image.
The pulley resists the thrust load and will be pulled
into the bearing. A spacer is installed between the
pulley and the bearing to prevent them from scraping.
Stepper end bearing in recess.
A standard flat washer will not work because of its

size. Like the pulley, it would scrape the bearing.
A sliver of the inch copper coupler described in
the pinion axle section can be used here as a spacer.
Another option is a finned lock washer that has
been flattened. The fins are twisted with pliers, or
tapped with a hammer so they are flat. Near right
image. The washer is abutted against the bearing.
Far right image.
Flattened lock washer as spacer against bearing.
The pulley is then installed with its hub away from

the end-plate. Bottom image. The pulley's set screw
is tightened.
The belt needs to be as close to the end-plate
as possible for the stepper's pulley to fit. The
stepper may have a short shaft.
The leadscrew, bearings and pulley can be installed
at this time. The collar clamp and bearing flange are
not tightened into place yet.
Install 15 tooth XL pulley.
61
Align Leadnut and Leadscrew
The leadscrew and leadnut are adjusted together.

The numbered photos show the process.
The leadscrew is centered by eye, and the bearing
flange is tightened enough to hold the leadscrew
in position.
The leadnut and its bracket are tightened into place

while the carriage is at the pulley end.
The flange is loosened so the leadscrew is supported
by the leadnut.
The leadscrew is turned to move the carriage to

the flange end. This aligns the leadscrew with the
carriage. The flange is tightened to secure the leadscrew. The leadscrew is now parallel with the carriage's travel.
1. The leadscrew is centered in its hole in the bearing flange end-plate by eye.
2. The flange is tightened just enough to hold the

leadscrew in place.
3. The leadnut bracket is secured.
4. The leadnut is tightened into place.
5. The bearing flange is loosened.
62
6. The carriage is moved to the flange end by turning the leadscrew, and the flange is secured.
7. The collar clamp is firmly abutted against the

bearing, and its set screw is tightened.
The carriage is moved from end to end by turning

the leadscrew.
ened individually while the axis is moved to find

the problem area.
The leadscrew can be turned by using the pulley as

a knob.
The angle bracket may not be square with the carriage, which can cause the leadnut to bind on the
leadscrew.
Any resistance should be removed by further aligning the leadnut and leadscrew.
Shims made from beverage can stock can be used

to align the parts. The shims can be placed between
the leadnut and the bracket, or the bracket and the
carriage plate. This is seldom necessary with plastic
leadnuts; they tend to be more forgiving than metal
ones.
At this point, simply loosening and retightening the

leadnut and its bracket can remove most remaining
misalignment and drag.
Should problems persist, each component is loos-
The machine is now at this stage of construction.
63
Z Axis Overview
The body of the Z axis is a 12 inch section of 2 x 1
x inch 6063 T52 aluminum channel, which supports x x inch steel angle rails.
A x 2 inch section of 6061-T6511 aluminum
flat bar is tied to the top of the channel with eye
bolts. This flat bar supports the leadscrew's bearings and the stepper's #10-24 x 2 inch standoff
screws.
Another section of 2 inch flat bar serves as an
optional heat sink for the stepper.
Front and back of Z axis.

Back of Z axis.
Steel Rails
The Z rails use the same x x inch steel angle

as the gantry rails. The two rails are cut to 12 inches
long and are drilled for the machine screws that tie
the rails to the aluminum channel.
The rails are made first so their attachment holes

can be used as templates for the matching holes in
the aluminum channel.
The two steel rails can be cut and drilled now. The
dimensions are in the image below.
The procedure for making these is the same as the

gantry rails.
Side view of top of Z axis.
12
1/2
1/2
5-1/2
O11/64
/
Hole placement in steel rails.
64
1/2
Z Body
The 2 inch aluminum channel for the Z axis is
inch thick with 1 inch legs. It is an even 1 foot long,
which avoids custom cut fees, and removes the need
to cut the section to length.
The top end of the channel needs to be square. It
can be trimmed with a saw the same way the ends
of the gantry beam were trued.
Holes for Steel Rail
The steel rails are placed on the channel's 1 inch
legs with the rails' legs pointing toward the 2 inch
face of the channel. Top image. The rails are set
back inch from the face, and inch from the
back of the channel's legs.
Rails on channel, top view.
The tops of the steel rails should not extend beyond

the top edge of the channel; otherwise, they would
interfere with the seating of the top plate.
The holes in the steel rails are used as guides to drill
the matching holes in the aluminum channel. A
combination square can help with the alignment.
Right image.
The rail holes can be drilled in the aluminum now.
Their diameter is 11/64 inch.
Back of rail is inch from back of channel leg.
Holes for Trim Router Mount

This attachment system is for DeWalt and Porter
Cable trim routers. Both of these units have a -20
threaded hole in the base that can be used to tie the
router to the aluminum channel.
5/16
5/16
O11/64
The mid section of the trim router is supported by

bands made from plumbing hanger strap.
Directions for the mount are addressed later. However, the mounting holes can be drilled in the channel now while the tools are at hand.
There are three holes as shown in the photo and

drawing. These holes can be drilled at this time.
1/4
1/2
1
Router mounting holes in channel.
65
Eye Bolts
The top plate is held in place with #10 or similar

eye bolts, which are tied in place with the same #832 x inch screws that support the tops of the rails.
The threaded shafts of the eye bolts need to be at
least inch long. The ones shown here are much
longer than needed, but were the shortest available.
The loops in the bolts can be bent with pliers to fit
better. Lower right image.
The ends of the eye bolts' loops abut the back of the
channel's face. Image below. This prevents the loops
from pulling open when the top plate is tightened
into place.
Eye bolts on channel.
End of eye bolt's loop toward front of channel.
Eye bolt loop bent to fit.
Attach Rails
Screws holding rails and eye bolts to channel. Center screws point outward. Top screws hold eye bolts.
The rails are attached to the aluminum channel
with #8-32 machine screws. The bottom and middle screws are inch long. The top screws are
inch long.
The leadnut clearance will be close around the center rail screws, so these screws are installed with the
head on the inside of the channel. Arrow in image
above.
The top screws also tie #10 eye bolts to the inside of
the channel as shown. The top screws are not completely tightened until the top plate is installed.
The rails can be attached now. They are inch from

the back of the channel. The screw holes in the aluminum or steel can be enlarged for alignment.
66
Z Top Plate
The top plate is a section of x 2 inch flat bar

that is cut to 2 inches long.
Holes are drilled in this piece for the machine
screws that tie the stepper to the axis, and for the
eye bolts that tie this plate to the channel.
Two leadscrew bearings sandwich this plate. A recess is drilled for one of the bearings.
Top plate tied to channel with eye bolts.
This recess only needs to be deep enough to keep

the bearing from wandering as the leadscrew turns;
less than inch deep will work.
The bearings and this top plate carry the plunge
forces and the weight of the router, so the base of
the bearing recess should not be too thin.
This top plate is installed with the recess facing
downward. Having the bottom bearing in the recess will give a fraction more Z travel.
The small holes in the plate are all inch. They
can be enlarged as needed for proper fit. The eye
bolt holes may not align with the available eye bolts.
The top plate is aligned so it is square with the
channel. It overhangs the front of the channel by
inch as shown in the photo on the next page.
Z top plate, bottom view.
The dimensioned template, bottom right drawing,

can be used for punch marking the holes on the
aluminum. Check the printed dimensions before
using.
2-1/2
1-7/8
5/16
5/16
5/16
Top plate information continues on next page.
7/8
Recess
5/8
2-1/2
1/2
1/2
1
1/4
5/16
5/16
5/16
1-1/4
Z top plate full scale template.

There is a copy on page 110.
Top plate held with nuts and washers on eye bolts.
67
1-1/4
This section of aluminum for this

top plate could also be cut from
leftover stock from the end-plates.
The dimensions of the metal stock
are not critical, but the hole placement does need to be accurate.
The bearings take the loads off of

the stepper, which removes lash
and can prolong the stepper's life.
Steppers' internal bearings are often not intended for significant

thrust loads.
Top plate overhangs channel inch.
The top plate can be cut, drilled and installed now.
For appearance, the threaded ends of the eye bolts

can be cut off near their attachment nuts.
The screws and nuts can be tightened, but they may

need to be adjusted during the leadscrew alignment.
Heat Sink
This heat sink helps to reduce stepper heating,

which can permit longer run times and more
aggressive settings on the drives.
It can be much larger than shown here.
The optional heat sink is a ~4 inch section of x

2 inch flat bar that is drilled for the stepper's attachment screw holes and for the stepper's raised
face.
The stock used for this can also be leftover aluminum from the 6 inch flat bar. The size and shape of
this heat sink can vary widely.
The easiest way to make this is to drill a inch
hole in the center of the aluminum plate, insert
the stepper's shaft in the hole and use the stepper's
holes to mark the holes in the aluminum.
The hole saw that was used for the gantry endplates' stepper mount holes can be used for the
large hole. The four smaller holes can be inch in
diameter.
The heat sink will be installed when the stepper is
attached to the axis.
Aluminum heat sink drilled to fit stepper's face.
68
Router Mount Construction

The trim router is held in place with a - 20 x
inch bolt in the base, and with a shop made band in
the mid-section.
The band is made of plumbing hanger strap that is
bent to fit the router.
The strap is cut into two 6 inch sections. These will
be cut shorter later; the extra length at this time
keeps options open for later alignment.
Plumbing hanger strap.
The strap is bent in a flattened spiral with its holes

aligned. A #8-32 x inch flat head machine screw
with a washer is inserted through the holes as
shown in the near right photo.
The strap is then pressed flat with pliers. Far right
image.
The screw is tightened into a nut that is inside the
aluminum channel.
The clearance will be close between these screws
and the leadnut, so the screws cannot extend very
far past the nuts. Image below.
Strap bent with screw in holes.
Straps' screws do not extend past nuts.

The strap is oriented as shown below.
The strap is then bent back over the screw head as
shown on the right.
Straps bent back toward outside of channel.
The process is repeated for the second strap.
The bending of the straps over the heads of the

screws removes the need for a crescent shaped
cradle between the router and the channel. It
stabilizes the router so it cannot shift sideways
on the channel.
The spiral wrapping of the strap on the screw
is done to prevent the soft strap from bending
too sharply and tearing around the washers
and screws.
Screw tightened with nut into hole in channel.
69
The router's base can be turned so the switch or cord is not in the way for mounting.
The four screws in the base of the router are removed and the base is rotated.
Take care; pulling downward on the loosened base will pull the commutator from the
brushes. The router's top cap can be removed for brush access should this happen.
The router is attached to the channel with a -20 x

inch bolt . Right image. A lock or flat washer is
used with the bolt. The bolt may bottom in the hole
before it tightens against the channel; shorten the
bolt if needed.
The straps are then bent around the router.
A -20 x 1 inch bolt is installed through holes in
the strap to pull the strap around the router. It is
recommended to offset the junction between the
straps from the switch so the bolt does not block
the switch. Bottom right image.
The strap is cut and its edges are trimmed so they
are covered by the washers that are on the tensioning bolt. Any exposed edges would be sharp.
-20 x inch bolt with lock washer.
The base of the router may not sit flat against the
plate, which will permit some rocking of the router
during aggressive cuts.
Shims made of beverage can or similar can be placed
between the router base and the channel to fill the
voids. Image below. The shims should be trimmed
flush with the bottom of the channel.
The straps are installed at this time so the nuts can
be checked for leadnut clearance; leadnut assembly
is addressed next. The router can be installed later.
Shim being installed between router and channel.
Bolt and nut with washers tighten band strap.
70
Z Leadnut Overview
The Z leadnut is supported by an angle bracket that
is made of 1 x 1 x inch aluminum angle.
Machine screws are threaded into both legs of the
angle bracket. Image below. One pair of screws ties
the bracket to the carriage plate. Right image.
The other pair of screws secures the leadnut. Middle right image.
The screws are threaded into the bracket so they
will not freewheel as the leadnut and bracket are
aligned and secured. Clearances are tight; accessing
freewheeling screw heads would be challenging.
Leadnut and bracket on carriage.
Leadnut bracket with #8-32 x inch screws.
Leadnut attached to bracket.
Z Leadnut Angle Bracket

This angle bracket, like the Y leadnut bracket, is made of 1 x 1 x
inch aluminum angle. This one is
1-5/8
13/16
9/64
#8-32
1/2
9/16
7/16
1/4
1-1/8
Bottom leg of Z bracket.
Holes are drilled and tapped for

#8-32 x inch machine screws.
The holes for the screws are 9/64
inch. The hole for the leadscrew is
inch in diameter.
The trimmed corners, as shown on
the left, are cut to clear the nuts and
screw heads that are on the inside
of the Z channel.
(Continued on next page.)
71
1/4
1-1/8
1/4
1/4
1
9/64
#8-32
1-5/8
Back leg of Z bracket.
The amount of trimming will vary and can be done

as needed when the Z channel is installed.
the threaded holes. The back screws are installed

first; the screws in the bottom leg block their access.
Sanding or cutting off a inch of the corners is a

good initial amount of trimming.
This angle bracket can be cut and drilled at this

time.
#8-32 x inch machine screws are tightened into

Z Leadnut
The clearance for the Z leadnut is close, and the
leadnut has to be trimmed to clear the Z channel
and to align with the leadscrew.
A section of the leadnut's flange is trimmed to fit
closely to the back of the angle bracket.
The opposite side of the flange is trimmed to give
clearance between the leadnut and the Z channel.
Notches are drilled and cut in the flange for the
machine screws. These notches permit the leadnut
to be moved for alignment with the leadscrew's
travel.
Z leadnut trimmed and notched.
The flange can be cut with a fine tooth saw, such as

a hacksaw. The plastic can also be shaped by sanding or filing. Coarse grit paper on a power sander
removes stock quickly.
edges of the flange and then cutting off the excess

stock. They could also be made by nibbling with a
scroll saw or fine toothed band saw.
The leadnut can be trimmed to fit at this time. The
angle bracket can be used as a guide.
The notches are made by drilling holes close to the

Install Leadnut
The leadnut is loosely attached to the angle bracket
with nuts and washers, and the bracket assembly is
attached to the carriage plate with nuts and washers. Images below and on right.
Front view of leadnut on carriage plate.
Top view of leadnut on carriage plate.
72
Adjust Z Axis V Bearings

The V bearings that carry the Z channel can be
adjusted before the stepper and leadscrew are installed. The adjustments are easier without these
other parts in the way. Further adjustments may be
necessary later.
The V bearings are rotated so the Z channel's rails
will fit in the bearings. The channel is installed and
the bearings are tightened enough to support the
channel without rattling.
The clearances between the leadnut assembly and
the router mount and rail hardware are checked as
the Z channel is installed. Right image.
Check clearance between hardware and leadnut.
The leadnut and its bracket are trimmed as needed.

The bottom V bearings' axles are the hardest to access with a wrench, so these are adjusted first.
and the axis is checked for square with the table

bed. Image below.
The bottom bearings' axles are turned so the rails

are held firmly. The bottom bearings are tightened
into place.
The top bearings are adjusted and tightened so the

axis is parallel with the square. Arrows in image.
The bearing tensioning process is the same as was
done with the gantry.
A square is aligned with the edge of the Z channel
Z axis made parallel with square by adjusting V bearings.
73
Install Z Stepper
The Z channel assembly can be removed from the
carriage for the next steps.
The Z stepper is held in place with four #10-24 x
2 inch machine screws. Nuts with washers hold
the optional heat sink against the stepper. These top
nuts and washers abut the stepper when no heat
sink is used.
Another set of nuts and washers sandwich the 21/2
x 21/2 inch Z top plate, and are used to align and
secure the stepper.
An extra pair of nuts and washers can be installed
on one of the front machine screws to hold a clamp
for the trim router's power cord. Top image.
Nuts and washers for cable tie on one front screw.
The stepper is oriented so its cable will project away

from the trim router, and toward the back of the
machine. There is more information in the Wire
Protection section, page 78.
The stepper coupler and its leadscrew are attached
to the stepper. The coupler is spaced ~ inch away
from the stepper's face.
A bearing is slid on the leadscrew to abut the leadscrew to leadnut coupler.
A spacer, e.g. a flattened finned washer, may be
needed between the bearing and the leadscrew
coupler. The coupler should not scrape against the
bearing. Middle image.
Washer between coupler and bearing.
Nuts with washers are threaded onto the #10 machine screws to abut the top of the Z top plate.
This assembly is attached to the Z top plate. Nuts
with washers are attached to the ends of the #10
screws on the bottom of the Z top plate. The nuts
are not tightened yet.
The leadscrew's second bearing is slid up the leadscrew and pressed into the recess in the top plate.
The collar clamp is abutted against the bearing.
The clearance is close between the rails' top screws,
which hold the eye bolts, and the collar clamp.
Bottom image. These two screws may have to be
trimmed.
The rails' top screws are close to the collar clamp.
74
Align Z Axis
The Z channel with its stepper is installed on the
carriage. The leadscrew is turned by hand to thread
the leadscrew into the leadnut.
A knob on the stepper makes this easier. A knob
can also be useful later when setting up CNC jobs.
A generic electronics control knob works well. See
the Knobs section on page 97.
Rough alignment is checked by turning the leadscrew to move the axis up and down.
The nuts that secure the heat sink are tightened.
The nuts that sandwich the top plate are incrementally tightened while checking for alignment of the
stepper and leadscrew. Top image.
Incrementally adjust and tighten nuts.
To align the components, it may be necessary to

loosen and retighten the eye bolts' nuts that secure
the top plate.
The steppers' internal bearings should not carry
any of the axis' weight. The leadnut coupler can be
loosened and retightened to remove any thrust load
that adjustments may have applied to the stepper.
The leadnut is tightened on its bracket, and the
bracket is tightened against the carriage. Middle
and bottom images.
Tighten leadnut's attachment nuts.
This entire process is done incrementally while

checking for drag caused by misalignment.
By design there is room for adjustment between
many components. Parts can be methodically loosened and retightened to find problem areas.
Many times simply loosening a component, moving the axis, and then retightening the component
can remove excess resistance and drag.
Again, achieving proper alignment is an incremental process that may require a number of attempts.
Tighten bracket's attachment nuts.
75
Install Gantry Leadscrew Stepper

The stepper's pulley is tightened to the stepper before the stepper is installed because access to the
pulley's set screw may be blocked by the gantry
end-plate.
The stepper is held in place while its 15 tooth XL
pulley is aligned with the leadscrew pulley. Right
image.
The pulley is then secured to the stepper with its
set screw.
The inch wide 40 tooth XL belt will not fit over
the flanges of the pulleys after the stepper is in
place, so the belt is installed as the stepper is installed. Second image on right.
Stepper pulley is aligned with leadscrew pulley.
The stepper is pulled toward the back of the axis

to tension the belt as the stepper's #8-32 x inch
machine screws are tightened. Image below.
The stepper and belt are installed at the same time.
Nuts tightened while 40 tooth belt is tensioned.

Install Pinion Axis Stepper
The stepper pulley has 12 teeth and the pinion axle
pulley has 36 teeth. The inch wide XL belt has
65 teeth.
The pulleys are aligned with each other as the leadscrew pulleys were.
These pulleys are spaced away from the end-plate
to prevent the bottom gantry stud and nut from
chafing the belt. Arrow in right image.
The pulleys are tightened on their shafts.
The stepper's #8-32 machine screws are loosely installed to tie the stepper to the end-plate.
Belt must clear bottom gantry stud and nut.
76
Three screws are #8-32 x inch. One machine

screw can be 1 inch long to support a cable mast.
Arrow in right image.
Two washers are put on the tensioner bearings' axle
bolt. Image below. These serve as spacers to align
the tensioner with the belt. Proper alignment may
require a different number of washers.
#8-32 x 1 inch screw to be used with cable mast.
Washers as spacers on axle bolt.

The tensioner assembly is loosely installed in the
end-plate. A nut and washer are put on the tensioner's axle on the inside of the gantry end-plate.
The stepper's machine screws are tightened with
the belt moderately tensioned. Middle right image.
The tensioner bearings are then turned to tighten
the belt to its final tension. Bottom right image.
The tensioner is tightened into place with its nut
that is on the inside of the end-plate. Image below.
Tighten stepper's hardware.
Tensioner bearings tightened with nut.
Tension belt by turning tensioner assembly.
77
Wire Protection
The wires need to be secured so they will not be

damaged as the machine runs.
Cable Clamps
Cable clamps made from thin metal or plastic can

be screwed to the steppers. These clamps will remove the stress on the wires where they exit the
steppers.
Cable clamp screwed to stepper.
Some steppers have threaded holes on their ends

that can be used to hold a screws for the clamps.
Top right image.
Clamps can be made from beverage can stock. The
thin metal is cut into strips and bent around a shaft
that is the same diameter as the cable. Right image.
Holes are punched in the legs of the clip. Third
image.
Strip of aluminum bent around a shaft.
Z Cable Guide
A strip of plastic cut from vinyl siding nailing strip

or drywall corner bead makes a simple guide for the
Z stepper's cable. Photos below and on the following page.
A 27 x inch strip is cut from the plastic stock as
shown in the images below.
One end of the plastic is attached to the stepper or
to the top of the Z axis.
The other end is screwed to the middle top of the
gantry beam. The stepper's cable is loosely zip tied
to the plastic.
Hole punched in thin aluminum clamp.
Drywall corner bead trimmed to ~ inch wide.
Cable guide made from strip of plastic.
78
A screw with washer fastens the plastic strip to the

top of the stepper, the heat sink or the top plate.
Right image.
The other end of the strip is screwed onto the middle of the top of the gantry beam. Images below.
A 9/64 inch hole is drilled and tapped for a #8-32
screw.
Wing nut on #8 screw in center of gantry.
Clamp and strip attached to stepper.
A wing nut on the screw eases Z removal for storage.
The stepper's cable is routed behind the pinion

stepper and bundled with the other cables into the
flexible conduit. This is addressed next.
The plastic strip is slightly angled away from the

gantry so it will not snag on the carriage's bearings.
Back view of stepper cable zip tied to plastic guide.
79
Secure Stepper Cables

The stepper cables are bundled together in a 24
inch section of inch corrugated conduit, which is
also called split convoluted tubing or looming.
The conduit is often sold in auto parts stores and in
home entertainment departments.
The cables in their conduit are supported by a clamp
that is mounted at an angle to direct the cables away
from the gantry and rack. Top image.
A commercially made Kwik Klip adjustable and
open-able clamp works well here. Middle image.
The opening option permits the Z cable to be removed from the gantry, which may be handy for
storage.
Stepper cables clamped to end-plate.
The foot of the clamp is drilled or notched for the

#8-32 x 1 inch machine screws that tie the clamp to
the gantry end. Middle image.
The clamp is positioned underneath the pinion
stepper, and its hole locations are marked onto the
gantry end-plate. Bottom right image.
9/64 inch holes are drilled and tapped for the #8-32
x 1 inch machine screws, and the screws are tightened into their threaded holes.
The screws are bent so they will angle the clamp
and conduit away from the X rack. Image below.
Holes or notches in foot of clamp.
#8-32 x 1 inch screws bent down and back.
Clamp's position is marked on gantry end-plate.
80
Nuts and washers sandwich and secure the clamp.

Image below.
The steppers' cables are bundled in the conduit and
secured in the clamp. A second open-able clamp

can be mounted to the center leg to anchor the
other end of the conduit. Right image below.
Clamp tightened between nuts and washers.
Conduit fastened to leg with second clamp.
Router Cord Support

The trim router's cord is supported by a mast, which
is a 6 inch section of dowel or rod that is slid into a
spring. It could be a piece of leftover -20 rod from
the legs' studs, or a pencil, pen, etc.
The spring is bent to fit around the pinion stepper's
longer mounting screw, and is clamped in place
Wire is wrapped around the base of the mast and
spiraled above the pinion axis pulleys to project the
router's power cord away from the gantry. Right
images.
A section of corrugated split conduit holds the
router's cord to the dowel. Far right image.
The spiral wire and split conduit allow the router's
cord to easily be disconnected from the machine.
Mast made of dowel and spring.
81
A cable clamp ties the cord to a stepper screw. The

clamp is sandwiched between two nuts with washers. Right image.
This clamp is made as shown in the Cable Clamp
section, page 78, but it has a slot rather than a hole
so it can be slid between the washers on the stepper
screw.
The cord is adjusted so the mast is leaning when
the router is at its extreme position as shown below.
The mast will spring back to vertical and hold the
cord above the table as the carriage moves.
Cable clamp on stepper screw.
Mast is nearly aligned with the cord when the router is farthest from the mast.
82
Tee Slots Construction

The tee slots cover only the cutting area of the machine so they can be surfaced by the trim router.
The boards are standard 1x4 stock, which has an
actual dimension of x 3 inches. Five pieces at
24 inches each fit well on the bed. Right image.
The boards are set back ~1 inches from the front
of the plywood table and ~4 inches from the back
of the table. The router's extreme positions are used
to determine this placement. The cross table extremes are used to position the two outside 1x4s.
Tee slots made of 1x4 boards.
The remaining boards are equally spaced between

the two outside boards. The router is used to widen
the gaps to fit the tie downs. Second image.
The two narrow boards on the outside edges are
inch high since they cannot be reached by the
router bit. The main bed can be resurfaced a number of times before large stock would be held high
by these edge boards.
Router bit used to widen slots.
Outside boards ~ inch below other boards.

The boards are rabbeted on their bottom edges
with the machine or a saw before they are screwed
to the table bed.
Tee slots cut to fit tie down foot.
The rabbets are ~ inch wide and ~ inch deep.

They are sized to fit the foot of the tie down clamps.
Lower middle images.
The 1 inch drywall screws that tie these boards
to the plywood are deeply countersunk so they will
not be hit during resurfacing. Last image. There are
five screws per board with pairs at each end, and
one in the middle.
The boards are not glued to the plywood base to
simplify replacement.
Screws are deeply recessed.
83
Limit Switches Overview

Limit switches are an important safety feature, even
on small machines. The limits can trigger a stop for
all movement, including the spindle. This can help
to keep small problems small.
The five limit switches are all secured in CNC cut
housings that are made from inch thick plastic.
Right images.
A plastic kitchen cutting board works well enough
for this stock.
Straight lever switch in housing.
The g-codes for the housings are linked on the web

site's Site Map page.
The housings allow each of the switches to be
mounted to the machine with a single #8 screw. The
screw slots in the housings permit the switches to
be aligned.
The housings are designed to hold miniature snap
switches that are 0.78 inch long and 0.25 inch
thick. This is a common size sold by Radio Shack
and Mouser, etc.
CNC cut limit switch housing.
The X and Y switches can have straight levers as

shown on this page. A roller lever works better with
the Z axis as shown on the Z switch page.
A variety of wire can be used to connect the switches including 22 gage stranded wire. The stranded
wire is less likely to fatigue and break from bending.
The switches are wired to be normally closed. An
open circuit will trigger a stop.
9/64 inch holes are drilled and tapped into the machine for the #8 mounting screws. Washers are used
under the screw heads.
Screw hole and larger wire hole in aluminum.
A second inch hole is drilled near the tapped

screw hole for the wires. This wire hole should be
aligned with the recesses in the housing so the wire
will not be crimped when the housing is installed.
Lower middle image.
A strip of electrical tape between the switch and
the aluminum machine insulates the wires. Bottom
image.
Electrical tape covering switch's wires.
84
Sequence Note
The #8-32 x 1 inch screw with its clamp, tubing

and wire, which are shown in the photos on this
page, can be assembled before the carriage is first
placed on the gantry.
This would lessen the need to remove the carriage
from the gantry for the Z limit switch installation.
When jumping to this page from the Carriage
Installation section:
Install the #8-32 x 1 inch screw, and clamp the
tube with its wire onto the end of the screw, as described on this page.
Screw that supports tubing on carriage back.
The loose ends of the tubing and wire can then be

tied or taped out of the way, and the carriage installation can be continued as described on page 55.
Z Limit Switch, Wire and Tube Mounting
The wire and tubing for the Z limit switch are secured to the back of the carriage plate with a clamp
that is attached to the end of a #8-32 x 1 inch
machine screw. Right images.
This screw is tightened into the tapped hole under
the leadnut. Top image.
The 28 inch ~22 gage stranded wire for the Z limit
switch is inside a OD x 16 inch section of clear
vinyl tubing.
A vacuum cleaner or air compressor can be used
to draw or blow a string through the tubing, and
the string can be used to pull the wire through the
tubing.
Tubing supported by #8-32 x 1 inch screw.
The wire can extend 6 inches beyond each end of

the tubing. The excess wire can be removed later.
The tubing is securely attached to the end of the
machine screw with a cable clamp that is sandwiched between two nuts and washers. Right images.
The cable clamp is oriented downward, and the
tubing is passed away from the leadnut side of the
carriage. Bottom image.
The wire is wrapped around the 1 inch machine
screw, as shown in the images.
The wire can be passed through the switch's wire
hole in the carriage plate after this hole is drilled.
This is addressed later.
Tubing travels away from the leadnut.
85
Z Limit Switch Operation

The Z limit switch is mounted on the face of the
carriage. A stop on the Z channel triggers the
switch when the axis is at its upper limit, which
prevents the Z axis from derailing.
There is no limit for the downward movement,
though another stop could be installed on the Z
channel; the stop could use the same limit switch.
Limit Switch Stop
The Z limit switch is triggered by a CNC cut stop
that is screwed to the Z channel. Upper right image.
The stop has a slot to permit adjustment on its attachment screw. Middle image.
Limit switch stop behind Z rail.
The g-code for the stop is linked on the Site Map.

A 9/64 inch hole for the stop's support screw is
drilled and tapped 2 inches from the bottom of
the Z channel. Bottom right image.
The stop is used as a template to position the hole
width-ways.
The hole is tapped for a #8-32 x inch screw, and
the stop is installed. Image below.
Z limit switch stop with adjustment slot.
The stop can be installed now.
Z limit stop screwed to Z channel.
Stop screw hole 2 inches from bottom end.
86
Z Switch
The Z limit switch is held in one of the CNC cut
housings.
This limit switch can have a roller lever, right image,
which makes it easier to install and remove the Z
channel. A straight lever may catch on the stop.
Switch Placement
The Z axis is moved as high as the bottom V bearings permit before derailment. Middle image.
Z limit switch with roller lever.
The unwired limit switch in its housing is aligned so

it is triggered by the stop. The sound of the switch
clicking can be the indicator.
The housing slot's position is marked on the carriage plate. Bottom right image. A 9/64 inch hole is
drilled and tapped at the mark for a #8-32 x inch
screw.
A inch hole for the switch's wires is drilled above
the tapped hole. Arrow in bottom image.
This hole should align with a recess in the back of
the housing so the wires are not crimped.
The holes' locations can be marked and drilled at
this time. The small hole is tapped.
The switch can be installed now. This is addressed
on the next page.
Z channel as high as possible.
Hole for wire above screw hole in carriage plate.
Mark hole position on carriage plate.
87
Z Switch Installation
The Z wires are passed through the hole that was
just drilled in the carriage plate. A section of the
vinyl tubing can be used as a grommet in the hole.
Right image.
The wires are cut and stripped so they align with
the normally closed and common terminals on the
switch.
The wires should be cut close to the carriage plate
so there is not a lot of slack wire behind the carriage.
The wires are soldered to the switch.
Electrical tape is put between the switch and the
carriage plate to insulate the wires from the metal.
Switch soldered close to carriage face.
The housing is installed, and the switch is aligned

so it triggers when the Z channel is at its upper
limit.
Secure Tubing to Gantry
A inch hole for the wire and tubing is drilled in
the back of the gantry ~1 inch from the bottom
rail's center screw. Bottom images.
The tubing is passed behind the leadscrew and
twisted so it remains against the back of the gantry
as the carriage is moved.
The tubing is inserted through the inch hole in
the gantry beam. It barely protrudes from the back
side of the gantry.
Z limit secured to carriage face.
The tube is secured with a cable clamp that is

attached to the middle bottom rail screw. Image
below.
Tubing secured to middle screw with clamp.
Hole in lower middle of gantry.
88
Gantry Limits
These two limit switches are in housings that are
held in place with #8-32 x inch screws.
The switches are positioned in the upper inside corners of the gantry beam. Right image. The hole locations for the switches are described in the Gantry
Beam section on page 22.
Each switch is triggered by a #8-32 x 2 inch machine screw. These screws are threaded through the
9/64 inch holes in the carriage plate.
The left 2 inch stop screw is above the tubing for
the Z limit switch, as shown in the middle photo.
Limit switch in housing inside gantry beam.
A nut is threaded onto each screw between the

screw's head and the carriage plate. This nut is used
to lock the screw into place. Bottom photo.
The screw may have to be bent to contact the
switch's lever at the proper travel limit. Bowing the
screw and turning it in its threaded hole adjusts the
point of contact. The nut is then tightened against
the carriage plate to secure the screw.
The switches are installed with their levers hanging
downward.
The switches can be soldered to the wires before the
wires are passed through their holes in the gantry.
The wires can be 16 inches long, which will give
ample length to work with later.
Y limit switch stop screw is above tubing.
The wires can be inside vinyl tubing for extra protection. Image below.
The gantry limit switches and their stop screws can
be installed and adjusted at this time.
Wire in vinyl tubing behind stepper.
Locking Y limit stop screw into place.
89
Cable Cover
A ~16 x 1 x inch cover made of wood separates
and protects the stepper and the limit switch wires.
The cover's length can vary; it should not interfere
with the steppers.
Two channels are routed or cut in the cover. Right
image.
The top channel is for the stepper cable, and the
lower channel is for the limit switch wires.
Channels in wooden stock.
The cover is aligned on the back of the gantry so its

lower channel is over the Z limit wire hole that is
near the bottom of the gantry beam.
These holes are used to mark the positions of the

matching 9/64 inch holes that are drilled and tapped
in the gantry beam.
The cover is held in place with two #8-32 x inch

screws.
This cover can be made at this time, and its screws'

holes can be drilled and tapped into the gantry
beam.
Holes of 11/64 inch are drilled for the screws through

the stock that is between the two channels in the
cover. The holes can be ~3 inches from the cover's
ends.
The cover is installed after the limit switch wires are

soldered together.
Painted cover screwed to the back of the gantry.

To ease the cover's installation, the limit wires and
stepper cable can be taped into place before they are
covered. Image below.
The tape is trimmed with a razor knife after the

cover is secured. Image below.
The limit wiring is addressed next.
Wires and cable taped to gantry.
Trim excess tape with razor knife.
90
Limit Switch Wires
The three pairs of limit switch wires for the gantry and Z axes pass through the back of the gantry
beam.
Switch
They are soldered together in series, and a single

pair connects the group to the X axis. Right image.
Switch
Switch
Solder
Connections
The connections are insulated with tape or shrink

tubing, and are protected by the wooden cover.
To
The wire pair that connects the Y and Z limit

switches to the X limits is protected in a ~24 inch
section of vinyl tubing. The tubing length will vary
depending on the wires and their orientation.
The tubing is tied to one of the stepper cable
clamp's screws with another cable clamp. Middle
right image.
This clamp is oriented so the tubing will not snag
on the end of the X axis.
It may be necessary to loosely tie the limit tubing to
the stepper conduit for the wires to not hang on the
end of the machine.
The wooden cover can be installed after the tubing
is clamped to the gantry end.
Wiring to X limits in tubing and tied to gantry.
The other end of the wire pair can be connected to

a jack plug or other type of connector. Image below.
Jack plug on limit wire pair.
This plug permits the gantry to be disconnected

from the X axis, which makes disassembly for storage easier.
A telephone junction box or similar can be used to
protect the limit wire connections. The box can be
tied to the aluminum angle rail support.
The tubing is secured near the box to prevent the
plug and socket connection from being stressed by
the gantry movement. Right image.
Open-able clamp secures plug junction.
91
Limit wiring routed to junction box.

Table Bed Limits
The X limit switches are mounted in housings that
are screwed to the ends of the 2 x 3 aluminum angle. Right image.
The housings are used as guides for drilling and
tapping the 9/64 inch holes in the aluminum angle.
The screws are #8-32 x 1 inches.
The limit switches' housings are spaced away from
the vertical leg of the 2 x 3 angle with a section of
inch thick block, which can be cut from the same
stock as the switch housings. This spacer aligns the
switches with the V bearings.
Back limit switch at end of 2 x 3 angle.
Holes are drilled and cut in the spacer blocks for

the wires and screws. Bottom image.
The switches' levers are oriented away from the table as shown in the middle image. The V bearings
trip the switches as they pass overhead. Photos on
next page. The switches' levers may need to be bent
for the correct action.
The wiring can be enclosed in vinyl tubing for extra
protection.
The switches' wiring is connected in series to the
other wires in the junction box. A single wire pair
leads from the junction box to the computer's parallel port.
Drilled and notched spacer block.
92
Front limit switch being activated.
Back limit triggered by V bearing.
X Axis Stops
The gantry is designed to be removable from the
table bed; however, this feature permits the gantry
to accidently derail when moved to its extremes.
This is addressed by tapping a stop screw into the
top edge of each end of the rack support angle.
Right images.
A #8-32 x 3/4 inch screw projecting from the angle
abuts the pinion when the axis is at the end of its
travel.
A screw can be unthreaded to take the gantry off of
the table bed. Removing and reinstalling the gantry
from the back of the table bed is the easier option.
X axis stop on back of machine.
Stop screws only need to be installed on one side of

the machine.
The back screw is as near the end of the aluminum
angle as possible. Top image.
The location of the front screw is determined by
moving the gantry as far forward as possible before
it derails, or before the pinion leaves the rack. The
screw is positioned so it abuts the pinion when the
axis is at this extreme. The front screw has to be
driven deeply or cut shorter so it does not interfere
with the carriage.
These stop screws are worth the time to install,
especially if the limit switches are not always active.
X axis stop near front of rack.
93
Fenders and Dust Guards

Overview
The pinions and top X bearings are covered with
dust guards and CNC cut fenders. These help
to deflect chips and keep stray items from being
pinched by the pinions and bearings. Right images.
The fender's g-code is linked from the website's
Site Map page.
The fenders are made of inch stock. Quality plywood usually works better than solid wood since
the fenders are thin and can split along the wood's
grain.
Bearing covered with fender.
The fenders are tied to the gantry end-plates with

#8-32 x 1 inch screws. These screws also support
the dust guards.
The dust guards are cut from thin metal or plastic
such as flashing, duct pipe, pie tins or deli containers.
The template for the dust guards can be taped to
the stock and cut with snips or scissors.
The cut stock is bent to shape and screwed to the
end-plates. A #8-32 x inch machine screw with
washer secures each guard behind the pinion. Bottom image.
Back view of a plastic dust guard.
The dust guard is bent to clear the pinion, and is attached under the fender.
94
Dust Guard Construction
4-1/4
2-3/4
1/4
5/8
3/8
3/8
1/4
1-3/4
1-1/8
4-1/2
2-1/4
7-1/4
1/2
Dust guard template. The same template is used for both sides, but the bends are mirrored.
There is a copy of this template on page 110.
1. Cut stock with template.
2. Punch holes.
3. Bend to right angle on dashed lines.
4. Bend curve around dowel, e.g. broom handle.
95
5. Trim sharp corners.
6. Cut bend junction ~ inch.
7. Bend edge using straight edges as a brake.
8. Install with fender.
Fender Carving
The fenders use the same code for each side of the
machine. The g-code is for 3/4 inch thick stock that
is cut with a 1/4 inch straight bit.
The top of the cut is 0, and the bottom carves into
the bed at -0.8 inch. A spoil board that is secured
underneath the stock is recommended.
Wooden CNC cut fender.
The two holes are plunge cut with a clearing retract,

but they still may smoke with the straight bit.
The code includes tabs that keep the piece in the
stock. Lower right images. Cut the tabs; prying the
piece free may split the work.
Top view of fender in stock.
Note that the gouge in the stock, arrows on the

right, is part of the g-code where the bit ramps into
the final pass for the tabs. It is not due to backlash;
though it appears to be.
Multiple coats of paint or varnish help to prevent
the finished fender from chipping.
The g-code is linked on the website's Site Map
page.
Bottom view of tabs on fender.
96
Knobs
It can be handy to move the axes by hand rather
than by jogging, especially during job preparation.
A variety of knobs on the axes make this easier.
A control knob works well for the Z axis. Knobs
with a 1/4 inch bore and a set screw are easily attached to the stepper's shaft. Right image.
A disk that is cut with a hole saw makes a serviceable knob. Simple CNC cut knobs also work well.
The bore of the knob can be drilled to fit tightly on

the leadscrew or pinion axle. Middle right image.
The hole can be larger so the knob fits tightly over
the hub of a pulley. Image below.
A slot cut in the knob can be clamped shut with a

screw and nut. Bottom left image.
A tee nut in a knob works well with hold down

clamps. Bottom right image.
Knob g-codes are linked on the website's Site Map.
Control knob on stepper.
Knob friction fit on pulley hub.
Knob threaded onto leadscrew.
Clamping screw and nut, not yet recessed.
Knob with tee nut for hold down clamps.
97
Step Per Inch Values
The pinion's pitch diameter is 0.75 inch. This value

times (3.14) gives the pitch circumference, which
is how far the pinion travels with each rotation.
The step per inch values are required for the software to correctly control the machine.
0.75 = 2.356 inches
Leadscrew
The leadscrew axes are the simplest to compute
since the screws turn one time for each stepper
rotation. The leadscrews' turn per inch values are
stated in their designation, e.g. 8-4-2, where 2 is the
number of turns per inch of axis movement.
Note that in this example the values are rounded.

When computing the values for the machine, use a
calculator and do not round the numbers.
This 2.356 inch travel moves the table too far for
the stepper to perform well, (compare this to the
0.5 inch of travel for the leadscrew).
A two turn per inch leadscrew moves the axis 0.5

inch with each stepper turn.
Differently sized pulleys are used between the pinion and the stepper to change the gear ratio and
decrease the travel per stepper turn.
The steppers are usually 200 steps per revolution.

This value will be in the steppers' documentation.
It may be stated as 1.8 per step, which is 200 steps
per revolution. (360 1.8 = 200)
The stepper pulley has 12 teeth and the pinion pulley has 36 teeth. The stepper turns three times for
every one pinion rotation. 36 12 = 3
This value is multiplied by the micro-stepping value

that the steppers' drives use. This ranges from 2 to
16 and further, with 8 and 10 being fairly common.
The axis moves 2.356 inches when the stepper turns

3 times.
With 10 step micro-stepping, the computer will

subdivide each of the 200 steps into 10 micro-steps,
which will give a value of 200 10 = 2000 steps per
stepper revolution.
2.356 divided by 3 is how far the axis moves in one

stepper rotation.
2.356 / 3 = 0.785 inch per stepper turn.
With 200 steps per rotation and 10 micro-steps per
step, there are 2000 steps per stepper rotation.
This number divided by the distance the leadscrew

moves the axis with each rotation gives the number
of steps per inch.
2000 steps per stepper rotation divided by 0.785

inch per rotation gives the number of steps per inch.
2000 steps / 0.5 inch = 4000 steps per inch.
2000 / 0.785 = ~2547 steps per inch. This value (not

rounded) is entered in the Steps per Unit box in the
software.
This value is entered into the Step Per Unit dialogue

box in the controlling software, such as Mach.
The reciprocal of this number is the resolution of
the axis. 1 4000 = 0.00025 inch per step. This is
the smallest distance the axis can be commanded to
move. This number is often smaller than the actual
precision of the machine due to backlash and flex.
The reciprocal is 0.00039 inch, which is the resolution, the distance the axis moves with each step.
Acceleration
The Acceleration value is set by trial and error.
Rack and Pinion
A too low setting will cause the table to move sluggishly, and too fast will snap the table around, which
will cause the steppers to stall.
The rack and pinion axis is determined similarly,

but the pitch diameter of the pinion, and the gear
ratio between the stepper and the pinion are included.
Erring toward slow is better than risking a stalled

axis.
98
makes tightening the set screws easier since the

screws are in the hub rather than in the toothed
section of the pulley, which would be blocked by
the belt.
Speed, Velocity
This can initially be set to half the anticipated final
speed (e.g. final speed calculated by: 500 rpm / inch
of travel per stepper turn) and then the speed can
be increased by trial and error as the axes are tested
and aligned. As with the acceleration, it is better
to err toward slow rather than to risk a stalled axis.
The bores of the pulleys can be drilled to larger sizes. It is worth noting that metric XL pulleys are the
same as imperial pulleys except for the bore size.
Therefore, an imperial pulley can be drilled to a
metric size, and vice versa. This can be handy when
the desired size is unavailable.
Axis Names
The axes' letter designations can be changed when
configuring the software.
The longest axis in these plans is the table bed X
axis since signs and other jobs, when designed in
CAD, are often longer in the X direction. However,
when looking toward the gantry, the common leftright X movement is the carriage on the gantry.
Switching the X and Y axis names is not a problem,
and it may make work more intuitive.
Leadscrew and Leadnut Notes
It is best to set up the machine so the CAD-CAM

coordinates, the keyboard, the monitor and the machine are all in alignment. It is safer and easier to
not have to rotate the mental map of the process
while refocusing between components.
The load rating of similarly sized leadscrews is

nearly the same, and is beyond what the NEMA 23
steppers can deliver.
Many options are available. The fewer turns per

inch the faster the machine will be able to move.
Two turn per inch leadscrews have served well on
the machine in these plans. 10-5-2 and 8-4-2 leadscrews have performed similarly.
Plastic anti-backlash leadnuts are generally rated

for less than 20 pounds of force, which is well below
the leadscrews' ratings. Cutting forces are usually
below 5 pounds, so the plastic leadnuts serve well
on these smaller machines.
Pulley Notes
With 269 oz.in. steppers driven by Geckodrives,

rapids over 600 inches per minute have been
achieved on this machine with two turn per inch
leadscrews.
The XL pulleys are commonly found sizes that are

available from a number of suppliers.
The pulleys can be made of a variety of materials
including aluminum, steel, or plastic with aluminum inserts. All of these have served well.
This machine with lower powered drives such as

HobbyCNC has achieved speeds in excess of 200
ipm when using 2 turn per inch leadscrews.
The set screws can strip threads in solid plastic pulleys. This has not been a problem in the plastic pulleys with aluminum inserts.
Five turn per inch leadscrews have also served well,

but they are slower.
The small set screws in the 12 tooth pulley are hard

to keep tightened. Resolutions include pinning the
pulley to the stepper shaft, and using thread locker
such as Loctite.
Generally, an assumption of 500 rpm for the stepper will give a rough expectation of the machine's
top speed with smaller drives.
Another option that has served well is retapping the

set screw holes to accept #10-32 set screws rather
than the #6 or #8 screws that come with the pulley.
Divide the stepper's speed by the leadscrew turncount for the axis' speed. E.g. 500 rpm / 5 turns per
inch = 100 inches per minute.
It is best for all pulleys to have two flanges and a

hub. The flanges keep the belt on track. The hub
More powerful drives such as Geckos can drive the

steppers over 1000 rpm.
99
Actual cutting speeds on a small machine can be

well below the potential top speed because the table
does not have the area for the steppers to accelerate
to the maximum velocity.
Scaling Notes
The table was designed to use off the shelf stock in
standard lengths. The 2 foot gantry beam and racks
determine the cutting area. These can be enlarged.
For example: A job that is g-coded to cut at 700

ipm may actually move at a third of that speed; the
steppers do not have time to reach their maximum
speed before they have to change direction.
The rack axis can easily be made longer. The limitations are the length of the rails used with the V
bearings, and the solidity of the bed. Racks can be
abutted for virtually infinite length.
Note that fast leadscrews, such as two turn per inch,

can more easily be back-driven. Forces applied to
the axis will turn the leadscrew.
For the gantry axis, a 4 inch beam up to 3 feet long

has served well on other trim router machines that
have been built here. The limitation is, longer beams
flex with aggressive cutting, and lengths over 3 feet
begin to chatter enough that upgrading to heavier
stock is warranted.
On a Z axis the weight of a heavy router-spindle

can cause the axis to fall when the stepper is disabled. This has been an annoyance on machines
that use a full sized router. It is resolved by using a
five turn per inch leadscrew on the Z axis.
Heavier stock, such as 6 inch channel, could be

used for a longer gantry, but taking advantage of
its strength requires other upgrades, which require
significant alterations.
Back driving with two turn per inch leadscrews has

generally not been a problem on machines that use
a trim router. But it is important to not assume that
the axis maintained position while the axis was disabled.
The Z axis can be made longer by increasing the

length of the 1 x 2 inch channel, the Z rails, and
the leadscrew.
Rail Notes
The legs can be made higher with 2 x 4 inch tubing,

for example, to give more Z travel. The limitation is,
the farther the router bit is from the support of the
gantry and carriage, the more it will chatter.
It is the opinion here that it is hard to justify the

cost of hardened proprietary rails on this DIY machine.
A larger router has been tested on a prototype of

this machine; the router cannot be pushed to its
potential without the aluminum flexing.
Standard mild steel is used for the rails rather than

proprietary V rails because of cost, ease of construction, availability and performance. The steel angle
and flat bar permit a simpler layout than commercially supplied V rails allow, while giving good
speeds and accuracy.
The flexing allows chatter, which yields rough cuts.

This can be addressed by making shallower passes,
but this defeats one of the reasons for using a larger
router. However, a larger router can still be useful
because of its longer life, and its ability to use a
wider variety of bits.
The mild steel will deform with use, and the bearings can be adjusted to compensate. The deformation is rapid at first as the bearings press tracks into
the metal. This stabilizes after a few hours of use.
As mentioned in the Leadscrew section, a large

router will cause fast leadscrews such as 2 turn per
inch, to back-drive on the Z axis. This is a nuisance,
and can be remedied by using a five or more turn
per inch leadscrew on the Z.
There are many factors that limit the performance

of DIY CNC machines. Steel rails are not the weak
link. Softer aluminum rails would be a limitation.
On a related note, temperature changes will cause
the aluminum components to expand and contract,
which will change the bearing tension against the
rails. A cold machine can be sluggish due to excess
bearing tension caused by contraction.
The machines have been pushed hard to find the

weak links. Generally, the NEMA 23 steppers, trim
router and thin aluminum all fail in the same range
of forces. An overly aggressive cut will either stall a
100
stepper, stall the trim router, or tear the stock with

chatter caused by the machine flexing. Upgrading
one element without upgrading all of the others
will not greatly improve performance.
Geckos cost more than the other drives, but they

perform better. They can handle higher voltages,
which gives more power and higher top speeds.
Gecko and Xylotex have axis disable functions,
which permit the axes to be moved by hand. This
is handy for setting up cuts without having to reset
the software. HobbyCNC lacks this useful feature.
There are now many suppliers for drives and steppers. Buying all stepper and drive components from
one supplier helps to ensure that the parts will work
well together, and it makes support easier since one
supplier is familiar with all elements.
Wrap Up
The machine is initially operated at slow speeds to

check for alignment and proper performance.
Hardware is checked for tightness; vibration will

loosen parts. Thread locker is helpful. A wicking
variety such as Loctite Green works well because it
can be applied to assembled components. It forms
a secure but breakable bond, which permits later
adjustments.
Cradles with band clamps for larger router.
The bearings will press tracks into the rails and will
need to be retightened to remove play.
A simple check for overall tightness of the machine

can be done by firmly grabbing the Z assembly and
rocking it as though trying to pull the gantry from
the racks and rails. Any looseness can be felt and/or
heard as parts move. It is usually straightforward to
find and tighten the loose components.
A loose pulley can be challenging to find since the
movement may be too small to see, though it can be
visible in a CNC cut.
Installing larger set screws in the pulleys has resolved this. Thread locker between the bore and
shaft also works, but it makes pulley removal difficult.
Larger router back drives a 2 turn/inch leadscrew.
The machine should not be operated until the wires

are secured and an E-stop is working.
Stepper and Drive Notes
The machine is designed to use NEMA 23 steppers. It has been tested with a range of steppers and
drives from a 200 oz.in. HobbyCNC system to 269
oz.in. steppers with Geckodrives and Xylotex. The
larger steppers give faster speeds and higher cutting
forces.
It is important to keep hands out of the working

area. The machine can move very rapidly in an
unexpected direction. The machine can also grab
and violently throw a piece of stock. Take care;
though the machine is small, it must be treated
with respect.
101
Supplier Notes
Pulleys and belts are available from a variety of

suppliers including mcmaster.com, sdp-si.com and
econobelt.com. Their inventories change regularly
and it may be necessary to shop among these to
find the exact match that is currently available. The
following Materials List mentions a number of options that will work for the pulleys and belts.
Roton.com sells leadscrews and leadnuts, but their

other offerings are limited.
Dumpstercnc.com sells leadnut components. The

multi-start screws are not standardized, so it is necessary to use the brands that the components are
made to match. All 3/8-8-4-2 leadscrews are not the
same, for example. Many of dumpstercncs components are for mcmaster.com leadscrews.
The V bearings are from vxb.com.
Onlinemetals.com is the supplier for the aluminum. Their smaller steel stock has arrived bent, so it
is recommended to buy it locally. The steel is usually
available from home centers.
The R6 and R8 bearings are standard sizes and are

available from a number of suppliers. Skatebearings.com and vxb.com sell online.
The racks and their pinion-spur gears are from mcmaster.com.
Auto parts stores are a source for the corrugated

split conduit, and thread locker such as Loctite.
102
Materials Lists
There are two lists, a condensed one on page 108, and a longer one with comments that starts on this page.
The Quantity and (May Buy) column lists the amount needed in inches. The likely available size is in parentheses (listed in feet).
Notes
Quantity
(May Buy)
Material
Where Used, and Comments
Aluminum. All Available from Onlinemetals.com.

~7'' (1' ) '' x 2'' Flat Bar 6061 T6511
Z top, Z heat sink. Leftover 6'' flat bar can be used

instead of the 2'' stock. The 2'' stock requires
fewer cuts.
26'' (3')
'' x 6'' Flat Bar 6061 T6511
Gantry ends, carriage plate
~4'' (1')
1'' x 1'' x '' Angle 6061 T6
Leadnut brackets. Can also be 6063 T52
60'' (5')
2'' x 3'' x '' Angle 6063 T52
X rail supports
24'' (2')
2'' x 3'' x '' Rect. Tube 6063 T52
Legs, rectangular tube
12'' (1')
2'' x 1'' x '' Channel 6063 T52
Z body
24'' (2')
4''x1.647'' x 0.247'' Channel 6061T6 Gantry beam
~30'' (3') '' Rod, Al. 6061 T6511, or Wood
Offset bushings. (Extra length for clamping)
Steel. Purchase Locally for Quality Check.
72''
'' x '' x '' Angle
Angle for Y and Z rails, flat bar for X rails.
(2 @ 3')
The edges need to be smooth so the bearings will
ride well. Online orders have arrived bent.
60''
'' x '' Flat Bar
(2@3')
26'' (3')
'' Rod
Pinion axle. Needs to be straight.
Wood
~102''
2x3 Board
Base frame. Actual size is 11/2'' x 21/2''. A 2x4 will also
(2 @ 8')
work.
~180''
1x4 Board
Tee slots, leg caps. Actual size 3/4'' x 31/2''. This size
chosen for ease of use. Other sizes can be ripped as
(2 @ 8')
desired.
~30''x 30'' '' Plywood
Base, fenders, knobs. Plywood is stiffer than MDF.
Smooth rigid stock is best.
( Sheet)
Machine Screws, Bolts, Threaded Rod
3
#8-32 x '' Round Head
2
#8-32 x '' Flat Head
5
36

#8-32 x ''
7
14
#8-32 x 1''
#8-32 x 1''
Pinion Dust Cover 2, Z limit stop 1.

Router band 2; flat head needed for clearance behind router. Round head could be filed.
Z rails 4, Z guide strip end 1.
Y rails 10, Z rails 2, leadnuts 8, Y bearing flange 2,
limits 3, stepper mounts 7, wire cover 2, X stops 2.
Cord mast 1, fenders 4, Kwik Klip clamp 2.
Rack mount 12, X limit switch 2. Could buy this
length in bulk for the shorter screws, and cut as
needed.
103
Nuts
1
2
#8-32 x 1''
#8-32 x 2''
Z limit tubing support 1

Y limit stop 2
#10-24 x 2''
Z Stepper 4
1
1
6
1
8
-20 x ''
-20 x 1''
-20 x 1''
-20 x 1''
-20 x 1'' Full Thread
Router base 1
Router strap 1
V bearing X axles 6
Belt tensioner 1
V bearing Y and Z axles 8
Set Screws #10-32 x ''
Pinions 2. Can be #8-32 or coarser thread, but fine

thread larger diameter tends to hold better. Need to
be short so they do not hit the aluminum rack support. 1/4'' can be filed to length on the socket end, not
the cupped end. 12 tooth pulley 2 replace originals.
#10-24 Eye Bolt
Secure Z top plate
~8'' (1')
58''
#10-24 Threaded Rod

-20 Threaded Rod
Gantry studs
Tie rail supports to bed. (10 @ 53/4'')
Small Machine Screws

~3-5 mm, #4 -6
Tie clamps to steppers. The size varies with the steppers. Computer cabinet screws often fit.
64
#8-32
22
34
#10-24
-20
Rack rails 16, Y rails 10, Z rails 6, steppers 8, mast

1, Y limit probes 2, leadnuts 8, Y bearing flange 2, Z
limit tube hanger 2, Z tube end clamp 1, router band
2, Z band wing nut 1, Kwik Klip clamp 5.
Z stepper 14, gantry end 6, eye bolt 2.
Legs 10, X rail bearings 6, carriage V 16, tensioner 1,
router band 1.
Wing Nut #8-32
Z Cable guide strip
10
Tee Nuts -20
Tie racks angles to bed
#10-24 Cap Nuts (Optional)

-20 Cap Nuts (Optional)
Gantry studs
Leg studs
#8
Steppers 8, mast 2, Y rails 10, limit housings 5, limit

tube supports 3, clamps 6, back cover 2, bearing
flange 2, leadnuts 8, Z cable guide 2, router band 2.
Gantry studs 6, Z stepper 14, eye bolts 2. A 100
count box of #10 could be used for all #8 and #10
washers.
V Bearings X 12, Y 16, Z 20, legs 10, tensioner 4, X
7/8 bearings 8, router band strap 2.
5
10
Flat Washers
50
22
#10
72
''
104
Lock Washers
17
'' Lock Washer
~3
'' Finned Lock Washer
~2
'' Split Lock Washer
Drywall Screws
31
>12
Router base 1, router band 1, X bearings 6, Y and Z

bearings 8, X tensioner 1. All are optional.
Leadscrew bearing to pulley spacer. Keeps pulley
from scraping bearing. Needs to be as thin as possible to keep pulleys near the end-plate.
May need one with coupler and collar clamps.
Pinion spacer. Use pliers to align the cut edges so
they are flat. Their small outside diameter usually
clears the X rails and does not scrape the bearings.
1''
15/8''
Tee Slots
Ply to 2x3 frame. A 1 pound box of 15/8'' will supply
enough for all drywall screws. The extra length will
protrude through the bottom of the plywood with
the tee slots.
6''
'' Wood
2''
Bearings
12
8
'' Wood
Cord mast. Can be different diameter. Leftover

bushing stock, threaded rod, or pencil, etc. will work.
Must fit spring.
Tensioner bushing
Dowels
RM2ZZ '' Bore V Bearings

R6 7/8'' x '' Bearings
Ride all rails. From vxb.com

Leadscrews, pinion axle, and X rails. Can have metal
shields or rubber seals. (ZZ or 2RS) Standard size,
multiple suppliers, e.g. skatebearings.com
Pinion belt tensioner. See above note.
R6 bearings can be used here, but belt manufacturers
recommend >1'' idler diameter.
R8 1'' x '' Bearings
XL 3/8'' Belts & Pulleys

1
15 Tooth XL Pulley '' Bore
1
1
1
1

40 Tooth '' wide XL Belt
65 Tooth '' wide XL Belt
Leadscrew. All of the pulleys can be aluminum, steel,

or plastic with a metal insert. It is better if they have
two flanges and a hub.
Leadscrew stepper, must fit stepper shaft diameter.
Pinion stepper, must fit stepper shaft diameter.
Pinion axle
Leadscrew drive. There are many options of material
and cord. Neoprene, urethane, polyester, fiberglass,
etc. Neoprene is quieter and more flexible than urethane, but all options have served well.
Pinion drive. See above note.
105
Racks and Pinions

2
Pinions Spur Gears
2
2' Racks
Leadscrew & Leadnut Parts

1
36'' x -8-4 Start 2 Turn Leadscrew
-8-4-2 Leadnut
-8-4-2 Collar Clamp
-8-4-2 x '' Leadscrew to Stepper

Coupler
Wire Protection Components

~6
Zip Ties, Small Sized
X axis. 15 Teeth, 20 pressure angle, 20 pitch, 3/8''

bore, 0.75'' pitch diameter.
mcmaster.com #5172T11
X axis. 1/2'' x 1/2'' , 20 Pitch.
mcmaster.com #5174T1
Y and Z axes. One 36'' screw is cut into two sections. Two or five turns per inch work well. Two
turns are faster, but can allow a disabled Z stepper
to drop a heavy router. This has not been a problem
with a trim router.
Y and Z axes. Leadnuts, clamps and couplers must
all exactly match the threads of the leadscrew.
Dumpstercnc.com has served well for these parts.
Y and Z axes. A section of hose held in place with a
band clamp can replace this.
For '' shaft Z stepper. Can also use spider couplers
or flex couplers. The price and simplicity of the one
shown in these plans is appreciated.
Tie Z stepper cable to plastic guide. Could use twist

ties, tape, etc.
~6''
Stiff Wire
Router cord standoff from mast. Fence wire, coat
hanger, solid electrical wire, etc.
1
Coil Spring
Cord mast. Spring needs to fit the mast. A range of
sizes will work.
27'' x ~5/8'' Plastic Strip
Z cable guide. It keeps the cable from falling and
kinking. This can be any flexible plastic or metal
strip. Band strap, vinyl siding nailing strip, siding
coil stock, flashing, drywall corner bead, wire looming, tubing, etc.
~3'
'' Corrugated Split Conduit
This product flexes well and is split so the wires can
be removed easily.
It is sold in automotive stores and in home entertainment sections of department stores.
Cable Clamp Adjustable Kwik Klip These are found in the electrical section of home
2 @ 1/2 ''
supply stores with cable clamps. Their ability to be
1 @ ''
opened makes it possible to easily remove the wires
for machine disassembly.
1/2'' is used for the stepper cables in their split conduit.
'' is used to secure the limit switch wires near the
junction box. It may be necessary to tape-wrap the
tubing so it will fit tightly in the clamp.
106
Limit Switch Components

1+4
Limit Switches
~12'
Vinyl Tubing
'' OD x 1.70 ID
Junction Box
1 Set
Plug and Socket
~15'
Wire 22 Ga. Stranded 2 Conductor
Miscellaneous
Small
Bottle
1 Tube
1 Small
Board
Electrical Solder
Electrical Tape
Heat Shrink Tubing
Wood Glue
Glue 2x3 to plywood. Carpenters' yellow glue serves

well.
Not permanent, wicks into joint and can be applied
after assembly.
Limit switch housings and Y bearing flange. This
is an inexpensive source for plastic stock. Delrin is
better but costly. The bearing flange can be 3/16'' or
thicker. The limit switch housing g-codes are for 3/8''
thick stock; 1/4'' stock is too thin.
Shims, cable camps, dust guards. The stock can be
from food containers, flashing, siding coil stock, etc.
Pinion spacer. Found in plumbing section of home
centers. Two spacers are needed. Can be couplers or
bushings.

'' Kitchen Cutting Board
Thin Plastic or Metal

2
2
SPDT Snap switches with levers. Body size is 0.78''

x 0.25''
Roller switch better for Z.
Radio Shack # 275-017 (Roller)
Straight levers for others.
Mouser # 101-1203 (Straight lever)
Wire cover. This tubing keeps the Z limit wire pair
that is behind the carriage from falling into the leadscrew. It also protects the other exposed limit wiring.
Sold in home centers. Stiffer sheathed cable may
eliminate the need for this tubing.
Surface Mount Phone Jack. Serves well as raw material for small junction box. Has to be drilled, etc.
For limit wires. Optional, could alternatively use
wire nuts, terminal strip, or solder. The plug permits
easy disassembly. A large range of plugs and sockets
will work.
This wire needs to be flexible, so stranded rather
than solid wire is preferred. Shielded-sheathed wire
is best, but most anything will do, though unshielded
wire may pick up electrical noise and give false
signals. Opto couplers address this. Rough lengths
follow. Z 28'', Y 2 @ 16'', X 2 @ 20'', gantry traveler
~24'', to parallel port ~50''
Connect limit switches and wiring.
Insulate limit switches
Insulate limit wires
'' Copper Coupler

'' Compression Bushing
107
Condensed Materials List

Notes
Quantity
(May Buy)
Material
Notes
Nuts
Aluminum. All from Onlinemetals.com.

~7'' (1' )
'' x 2'' Flat Bar
26'' (3')
'' x 6'' Flat Bar
60'' (5')
2'' x 3'' x '' Angle
~4'' (1')
1'' x 1'' x '' Angle
24'' (2')
2'' x 3'' x '' Rect. Tube
12'' (1')
2'' x 1'' x '' Channel
24'' (2')
4''x1.647'' x 0.247'' Channel
~30''(3')
'' Rod, Al. or Wood
Steel. Purchase Locally for Quality Check.
72'' (2@3')
'' x '' '' Angle
60'' (2@3')
'' x '' Flat Bar
26'' (3')
'' Rod
Wood
~102''(2@8') 2x3 Board
~180''(2@8') 1x4 Board
( Sheet)
'' Plywood ~30'' x 30''
Machine Screws, Bolts, Threaded Rod
3
2
#8-32 x '' Flat Head
5
36
#8-32 x ''
7
#8-32 x 1''
14
#8-32 x 1''
1
#8-32 x 1''
2
#8-32 x 2''
4
#10-24 x 2''
1
1
6
1
8
-20 x ''
-20 x 1''
-20 x 1''
-20 x 1''
-20 x 1'' Full Thread
Set Screws #10-32 x ''
#10-24 Eye Bolt
~8'' (1')
58''
#10-24 Threaded Rod

''-20 Threaded Rod
Screws ~3-5 mm, #4 -6
Quantity
Material
64
22
34
#8-32
#10-24
-20
Wing Nut #8-32
10
Tee Nuts ''-20
#10-24 Cap Nuts (Optional)
10
-20 Cap Nuts (Optional)
Flat Washers
50
#8
22
#10
72
''
Lock Washers
17
'' Lock Washer
~3
'' Finned Lock Washer
~2
'' Split Lock Washer
Drywall Screws
31
1''
>12
15/8''
Dowels
6''
'' Wood
2''
'' Wood
Bearings
12
RM2ZZ '' Bore V Bearings
8
R6 7/8'' x '' Bearings
2
R8 1'' x '' Bearings
XL 3/8'' Belts & Pulleys
1
1
1
1
1
40 Tooth '' Wide XL Belt
1
65 Tooth '' Wide XL Belt
Leadscrew & Leadnut Components
1
36'' x ''-8-4-2 Leadscrew
2
''-8-4-2 Leadnut
2
''-8-4-2 Collar Clamp
1
''-8-4 -2 x '' Leadscrew to
Stepper Coupler
108
Continued on next page.
Notes
Quantity
Material
Racks and Pinions

2
Pinions Spur Gears, mcmaster.com #5172T11
2
2 ft. Racks, mcmaster.com #5174T1
Wire Protection Components
~6
Zip Ties, Small Sized
~6''
Stiff Wire
1
Coil Spring
27'' x ~5/8''
Plastic Strip
~3'
'' Corrugated Split Conduit
2 @ 1/2 ''
Cable Clamp, Adjustable Kwik Klip
1 @ ''
Limit Switch Components
1+4
Limit Switches: Roller Lever, Straight Lever
~12'
Vinyl Tubing '' OD x 1.70'' ID
1
Junction Box
1 Set
Plug and Socket
~15'
Wire 22 Ga. Stranded 2 Conductor
Electrical Solder
Electrical Tape
Heat Shrink Tubing
Miscellaneous
Small Bottle
Wood Glue
1 Tube
1 Small Board
'' Kitchen Cutting Board
Thin Plastic or Metal
2
'' Copper Coupler or
'' Compression Bushing
109
2-1/2
1-7/8
5/16
5/16
5/16
7/8
Recess
5/8
2-1/2
1/2
1/2
1
1/4
5/16
1-1/4
5/16
1-1/4
5/16
Z top plate template. Bottom view.

From page 67.
4-1/4
2-3/4
1/4
3/8
5/8
3/8
1/4
1-3/4
1-1/8
4-1/2
7-1/4
Dust guard template.

From page 95.
110
2-1/4
1/2

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Page Numbering Note.

This PDF package contains the plans for

CNC Router Plans

NOTICE: That which makes CNC machines useful also makes

Copyright 2011 David K. Steele

X Leadscrew Sequence Note . . . . . . 95

builders can customize the table to fit different

The wood requires very few long cuts; so few that

Front view of the

The X axis can use racks and pinions or

Rack and pinion X axis.

The X axis is primarily built from 2 x 6 framing

The plans cover three layouts for driving the X

Wooden components and pipe rails of the Y leadscrew

The body of the Z carriage is made of inch

Back of Y leadscrew gantry showing X stepper

Back view of leadscrew carriage on gantry. The gantry in the

The gantrys 2x6 for the Y leadscrew version has

Z carriage for rack and

The Z stepper is mounted on top of the carriage

Build the table frame without its top.

The rack or leadscrew components are attached

X table made of 2 x 6 lumber.

The rails are made of 3/4 inch black iron (gas)

The holes for the screws shafts should be the

Two by four field joist. Make three.

Two by six end boards. Make two.

The heads of the screws can be countersunk, but

Side view of rack table. Front is on left.

The table frame can be built now.

The machine is designed so the top of the table will

Front legs for rack version;

Back legs for rack version.

Top of leadscrew leg.

Leg with leadscrew.

Make and attach the legs to the table bed at this

Top of legs for leadscrew versions.

Top of leg is notched and drilled for

Legs for leadscrew table.

Pipe Support Boards

Holes in 2 x 6 for pipe

The holes in the top edges of the 2x6s are inch;

Rail supports made of 2 x 6 lumber. Make two.

Rail support. inch

The top of the table can be virtually any sheet

The pipe rails are made of 3/4 inch ID (Inside

Tee slot table top.

The table top is 60 inches by 33-7/8 inches. It can

Holes with a diameter of 3/8 inch are drilled in the

The top is attached to the table frames rim and

The ends of the pipes are likely to be threaded. The

This slab helps to hold the machine square.

Threads can be cut for stops in both ends of the

The table top can be cut and installed now. Check

Cut the pipes and drill their holes as shown in the

Holes in 3/4 ID gas pipe. Make two.

After the nut and stud have been checked for a

Two washers are necessary at each nut. Fender

Put the washers on the studs with the smaller

Washer sizes vary by supplier and their nominal

It may not be possible to use the larger washers on

The larger washer cannot be so big as to overhang

Incrementally tighten the nuts that abut the pipe.