International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Technology (IJAERT) 346

Volume 3 Issue 10, October 2015, ISSN No.: 2348 8190

EFFECTS ON PRODUCTIVITY BY IMPLEMENTING LEAN

MANUFACTURING TOOL IN AN EXPORT HOUSE
Arun Kumar*, Jitender Kumar**
*Department of Mechanical Engineering, Geeta Engineering College, Naultha, Panipat
**Department of Mechanical Engineering, Geeta Engineering College, Naultha, Panipat

Abstract
Due to high labor cost in the western countries, the
majority of the garment manufacturing sector migrated
towards Asian and African countries, where; labor cost
is low, sufficient, cheap and continuous supply of raw
material is available throughout the year. Some of the
major issues these industries had been dealing with
viz; longer throughput time, WIP, rework, rejections,
poor line balancing, low flexibility of style
changeover. These problems were addressed in the
research work of the case export house, by means of
implementing lean manufacturing tool like cellular
manufacturing, single piece flow and work
standardization. After the implementation of lean tools
the result obtained were highly encouraging. The SAM
of the focused garment 825-H decreased by 17.63%,
no. of operators required to manufacture a garment
decreased by 20%, Rework level reduced to 80%,
production lead time comes down from 2 days to 1
day, WIP stays at maximum 200 ps from around 12001400 ps. Apart from this some other benefits include
time study, conversion of batch production into single
piece flow and long assembly line into small work
cells.
Key
Words:
Lean
manufacturing,
cellular
manufacturing, Time study, SAM, Single piece flow.

1. Introduction
Lean manufacturing or lean production is a systematic
method for the elimination of; waste (MUDA), over
burden (MURI), and wastes created through
unevenness in workloads (MURA). (Nash,Ward 2006.
P. 17.)
LEAN is focused on making obvious what adds value
by reducing non value adding activities. Lean
manufacturing is a management philosophy derived
mostly from the Toyota production system and
identified as lean only in 1990.
This term was first coined by John krafcik in his 1988
article Triumph of lean manufacturing system. Lean
is the set of tools that assist in the identification and
steady elimination of waste as the waste is eliminated
quality improves while production time and cost are
reduced.
Waste may be defined as those non-value adding
activities which the buyer is unwilling to pay for.

There are mainly seven types of wastes viz;

Overproduction, Waiting, unnecessary transportation,
Over processing, Inventory, Motion, Rework.
1.1 Lean manufacturing Tools and Techniques:
This are basically the approaches which when
implemented with proper planning will yield fructify
outcomes. Once the non-value adding activity or waste
is identified it should be encountered by means of lean
tools; simply by eliminating or at least minimizing it.
The focus is on creating a system which is free from
wastes.
1.1.2 Cellular Manufacturing: In this type of system
a workstation is created where operators machines
and tools are organized in such a way that the
production flow remains in order to manufacture all
parts or only one part of the whole process.( Wilson.
2009. pg 214- 215.)
1.1.3 Continuous Improvement: According to
(Gersten and Riss) Continuous improvement (CI) can
be defined as the planned, organized and systematic
process of ongoing, incremental and company-wide
change of existing practices aimed at improving
company performance.
1.1.4 Just in Time: This concept was formulated with
a purpose of maintaining minimum inventory levels
and reducing the costs linked with maintaining such
inventories. Just in time means getting right things in
right order quantity, of right quality on right time at
right place.( Shivanand 2006.pg,45)
1.1.5 Work Standardization: A very important
principle of waste reduction is the standardization.
Standardize work basically ensures that each job is
organized and carried out in the same manner,
irrespective of people working on it. In this way if the
work is standardized the same quality output will be
received even if the worker is changed in process.
(Feld .2004)
1.1.6 Method Study: It focuses on how a task should
be accomplished. Whether controlling a machine or
making or assembling components, how a task is done
makes a difference in performance, safety and quality.
(Heizer et al. 2000. Pg, 394-396)

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International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Technology (IJAERT) 347

Volume 3 Issue 10, October 2015, ISSN No.: 2348 8190

2. Problem Identification
In general garment manufacturing in export house is
based on the traditional batch production system,
where cutting bundles is fed on the feeding table, and
then the garment manufacturing process starts.
Depending on the different skill levels of operators;
WIP is generally generated, which is a major issue.
Due to this throughput time as well as rework level
would get increased to high levels, this increase the
problem of work balancing between the operators and
defective parts remains hidden in the WIP. This
traditional layout does not provide flexibility, which is
the current requirement for the garment export houses
because of decreasing order size and increasing in
different types of styles, so as to meet such
requirement cellular layout should be designed that
will meet requirements like; minimum WIP, flexibility
to change to order quickly with minimum line setting
problems related to time.

conducting time study and motion study of the sewing

operations and creating cellular layout. By doing this
work study the stitching operations will be
standardized and production targets for each operation
will be fixed, by the implication of new cellular layout,
this approach reduce the unnecessary WIP.
Here worker is trained to perform multi operations,
because in cellular manufacturing layout the number

of operators are less as compared to number of

operations (machines), one operator has to
perform at least three to four operations. This will
help to increase operator skill. Also the flexibility
in production is achieved by reduced WIP and
multi skilled operators, who can work on multiple
styles quite easily. Finally comparison between
the existing layout parameters and proposed
layout parameters is made to visualize the
encouraging results as a result of changes we had
made in the layout designing.

3. Methodology
The main goal of this research is to ascertain how lean
manufacturing practices affect layout facility
designing. The research work is done by means of

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4. Existing Production Layout

International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Technology (IJAERT) 348

Volume 3 Issue 10, October 2015, ISSN No.: 2348 8190

5. Creating Cellular Layout

In new cellular layout some operations were removed from the existing layout.

5.1 Conducting Time & Motion Study

To calculate standard time for each operation, time study is conducted; to do this, a ladies top is selected as a focused
garment because operations differ from style to style and it is difficult to correlate all these operations of individual
styles.

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International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Technology (IJAERT) 349

Volume 3 Issue 10, October 2015, ISSN No.: 2348 8190

FACING SECTION OPERATION SAM

STITCHING
STITCHING
SECTION
OPERATIONS

OBSERVED
TIME(SEC)

PFD
ALLOWANCE

OPERATOR'S
RATING

CALCULATED
TIME (SEC)

20.6

15%

100%

24

Facing turning &

press

23

15%

100%

26.5

Facing Top Stitch

21.4

15%

100%

25

31

15%

100%

36

Facing o/l
Front & Back
facing

Facing Marking
TOTAL FACING SECTION TIME

96

111.5

COLLAR SECTION OPERATION SAM

STITCHING
SECTION

COLLAR BAND

STITCHING
OPERATIONS

OBSERVED
TIME(SEC)

PFD
ALLOWANCE

OPERATOR'S
RATING

CALCULATED
TIME (SEC)

Collar Running

21

15%

100%

24.15

Collar edge
cutting

19

15%

100%

22

Collar turning &

press

40

15%

100%

46

Collar thread
removal

20

15%

100%

23

Collar Top stitch

21

15%

100%

24.15

Collar Marking

15

15%

100%

17.25

40
38
214

15%
15%

100%
100%

46
44
246.55

Collar attach
Collar finish
TOTAL COLLAR SECTION TIME
FRONT SECTION OPERATION SAM

STITCHING STITCHING
OBSERVED PFD
OPERATOR'S CALCULATED
SECTION
OPERATIONS TIME(SEC) ALLOWANCE RATING
TIME (SEC)

FRONT
PANEL

Front panel
gather

23

15%

100%

26.45

Front panel
yoke attach

24

15%

100%

27.6

Front panel
yoke o/l

19

15%

100%

21.85

35

15%

100%

40.25

Centre front
marking
TOTAL FRONT SECTION
TIME

101

116.15

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International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Technology (IJAERT) 350

Volume 3 Issue 10, October 2015, ISSN No.: 2348 8190

BACK SECTION OPERATION SAM

STITCHING
STITCHING
SECTION
OPERATIONS

OBSERVED
TIME(SEC)

PFD
ALLOWANCE

OPERATOR'S
RATING

CALCULATED
TIME (SEC)

Back panel
gather

22

15%

100%

25.3

Back panel yoke

attach

23

15%

100%

26.45

Back panel yoke

o/l

19

15%

100%

21.85

Centre back
marking

33

15%

100%

37.95

TOTAL BACK SECTION TIME

97

BACK PANEL

111.55

ASSEMBLY SECTION OPERATION SAM

STITCHING STITCHING
SECTION
OPERATIONS
Facing attach
Collar attach
Collar finish
Shoulder
marking &
attach
Shoulder o/l
Arm Hole
ASSEMBLY marking &
Edge cutting
SECTION
A/H binder
attach
A/H stay stitch
A/H Top stitch
A/H Tacking
Side seam o/l
Btm Hem
Label attach
TOTAL ASSEMBLY
SECTION TIME

OBSERVED
TIME(SEC)
37
40
38

PFD
ALLOWANCE
15%
15%
15%

OPERATOR'S
RATING
100%
100%
100%

CALCULATED
TIME (SEC)
42.55
46
43.7

25
19

15%
15%

100%
100%

28.75
21.85

31

15%

100%

35.65

38
36
38
37
34
59
51

15%
15%
15%
15%
15%
15%
15%

100%
100%
100%
100%
100%
100%
100%

43.7
41.4
43.7
42.55
39.1
67.85
58.65

483

555.45

6. Results & discussions

6.1 Comparison of Throughput Time: In the existing
production layout throughput time is very high and at
times for different items it might take 2 days (8 hrs per
day * 2 days= 16 hours) to complete a 20 SAM
garment. In proposed layout if everything goes well, if
garments are defect free, if there is no machine break

down etc. And operators follow bundle sequence

properly it will take minimum 220 to 230 minutes.
(Approx 90 minutes in preparatory and 136 minutes in
assembly to complete one bundle). Whereas this time
is less than an hour in case of single piece flow as
recommended in this study.

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International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Technology (IJAERT) 351

Volume 3 Issue 10, October 2015, ISSN No.: 2348 8190

6.2 Comparison of Production Time:

6.3 Comparison of Number of Operation:

6.4 Comparing Number of Operator Required:

6.5 Comparison of Information Flow: In existing

layout the production line is very long, starting from

preparatory to the end of assembly. Because of this,

communication and information flow is difficult and

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International Journal of Advanced Engineering Research and Technology (IJAERT) 352

Volume 3 Issue 10, October 2015, ISSN No.: 2348 8190

for each and every thing supervisor has to walk around

the line frequently In case of new layout (cellular
layout) the information flow is effective and quick and
accurate.
6.6 Comparison of Rework Level: The rework level
has been decreased by 80% over existing trends. In
existing production, the rework level is approximately
5% but after implementation of recommended layout
the rework level falls to 1%.

7. Conclusion
In this study the lean manufacturing tools and
techniques were studied and used in case company
(garment manufacturing industry). The problem of
batch processing of existing company is addressed by
using single piece movement of WIP. This is achieved
by converting long assembly line into small work cells.
Thus by converting long assembly line into work cells,
the assumed worker multi skilling seems effective as
well as communication between operators is fast and
accurate. The other benefits visible are the flexibility
of style changeover and rework reduction. Thus the
initial guesses were solved by this study in the case
company. The other benefit of using cellular
manufacturing is consistent and continuous output.

LISTS OF REFERENCES
[1] (Nash,Ward 2006. P. 17.) Bheda, R., Narag, A.S.
and Singla, M.L. Apparel Manufacturing a Strategy for
Productivity Improvement, Journal of Fashion
Marketing and Management, Volume 7.
[2] Bisen, V. and Srivastava, S. (2009). Production
and Operation Management. Lucknow, India Global
[3] Burton, Terence T., and Boeder, Steven M. (2003).
Lean Extended Enterprise : Moving Beyond the Four
Walls to Value Stream Excellence. Boca Raton, FL,
USA: J. Ross Publishing Inc
[4] Drew, J., Blair, M. and Stefan, R. (2004). Journey
to Lean: Making Operational Change Stick.
Gordonsville, VA, USA: Palgrave Macmillan.
[5] Feld, M.W., (2000). Lean Manufacturing: Tools,
Techniques, and how to use them.
[6] Gersten, F. (ed), and Riis, Jens O. (ed)., (2002).
Continuous Improvement and Innovation p. 41
[7] Heizer, J., and Render, B. Principles of Operations
Management 4th Edition. Pearson College Div.
[8] John krafcik (1988) in his research paper triumph
of lean manufacturing system.
[9] Shivanand, H.K Flexible Manufacturing System.
Daryaganj, Delhi, India: New Age International

8. Limitations of the Study

This research is confined to the sewing section only.
The line balancing is made as per manual calculation
and assuming every operator knows at least three to
four operations of respective cells, but operators may
not necessarily know this much operation skillfully.
Usually, the stitching operations are given personal
fatigue and delay allowances of 10-15%, but due to
standing operation and frequent movement from
machine to machine this is taken as 15% without any
scientific calculation. The study compares different
parameters of the existing production system and the
recommended system for example production time,
rework percentages, operator multiskilling, operation
flexibility etc. but this study cannot compare all these
data to their equivalent values.

9. Recommendation for Future Research

In this research work, only the stitching operations of a
style 825- H mama style are standardized due to time
limitation and availability of running style during the
time of research. But this can be forwarded for any
new style and data analysis should be prepared for
other styles also. In the research the concept of cellular
manufacturing has been implemented to increase the
productivity. This can be further sorted by using the
system of group incentive and reward systems.

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