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How To Read A Car's VIN


Matt Hardigree
Filed to: FLASHBACK FRIDAY 3/19/10 3:30pm

If you know how to read it, your car's Vehicle Information Number will
tell you more than you ever wanted to know about your ride. What
secrets do those 17 letters and numbers hold?
We're re-running this story as part of Flashback Friday, when we republish
classic stories from the Jalopnik archives. Think of it as Jalopnik's 'Best Of' series.
We decided to run this particular story because this week, when we needed to
figure out a VIN, we found this post to be particularly invaluable in helping us
decode it. Ed.

The Vehicle Identification Number program was initiated by the


International Organization for Standardization (ISO) in 1980 as a way to
standardize car serial numbers. Cars built before 1981 don't follow a
universal standard and thus require manufacturer-specific information
to decode. Why was this worth the ISO's time? Simple: The whole thing
was created to ensure that no one car make, model, production run,
etc. was ever passed off as another.
Decoding a VIN is an easy way to make sure that you don't get ripped
off in a purchase either by buying a vehicle pretending to be
something it isn't, like a stock Mustang dressed up to be a special
edition Cobra, or by purchasing a car with a salvage or rebuilt title. How
do you do it? The folks at DriverSide.com helped out by giving us some
details which we've expounded upon below.
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Step One: Find It

The vast majority of new cars have their VINs located under the front of
the windshield and typically visible through a small, clear square within
the tinted area. Depending on the year and price of the car you're
looking at, what's there will vary: It could be a nicely stamped piece of
aluminum, or it could be a cheap plastic tag. Both are usually riveted
onto the dash in order to make replacement difficult. Limited-edition
models or expensive sports cars may also have a special VIN plate
located in the door sill or on the dash.
Once you find the VIN the fun begins!

Step Two: Break It Down

As you can see in the graphic above, the VIN is composed of six parts:
Make/Model: (Digits 1-3) This breaks out the vehicle's make, model,
and manufacturer.

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Vehicle Features: (Digits 4-8) These digits identify the various features
of the specific model trim specifications, driveline options, etc.
Verifying #: (Digit 9) Determined through a complex mathematical
formula that relates to the other numbers in the VIN; used to verify that
the VIN itself is not fake.
Model Year: (Digit 10) Represents the vehicle's model year, which is not
to be confused with the year it was sold or delivered.
Assembly Plant: (Digit 11) An internal digit that shows where the car
was built.
Sequence Of Model Production: (Digit 12-17) These digits indicate the
order in which the vehicle left the assembly line. This is effectively the
serial number.
Note: A VIN will never include the letters I, O, or Q because of their similarity to
the numbers "1" and "0." BUt seriously, though: Who confuses a Q with a 0?

Step 3: Decoding The Make

We're going to use the VIN 1ZVHT82H485113456 from the photo above
as the sample to work from. We won't tell you what this vehicle is, but
you should know more about it by the time we reach the end of the
number.
Our first decoding challenge is to figure out who made this vehicle. This
is found in the digits 1ZV.
The first digit in the make code will always be the country of
manufacture. There are numerous country codes, but the most common
ones are:

USA: 1, 4 or 5
Canada: 2
Mexico: 3
Japan: J
Korea: K
England: S
Germany: W

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Italy: Z
Sweden: Y
Australia: 6
France: V
Brazil: 9

Looking at our code, it's clear we're dealing with an American car or a
foreign car built in America.
When we add the next two digits to the equation, we discover the
manufacturer. The full three-digit code is called the "World
Manufacturer Identifier." There's more to this than simply handing an
"F" to Ford or a "G" to GM. For instance, "1GC" represents Chevrolet
trucks, and "1G1" is for Chevy passenger cars. You can cross reference
the WMI with this list of common WMIs.
It turns out that "1ZV" is the code for AutoAlliance International, a
company building cars for both Mazda and Ford. This means our car is
either a Ford or a Mazda product.

Step 4: Figuring Out the Features


More than just telling you what model of car you have, this section
often describes the type of engine and platform the car uses. How this
is used is based on the country and company in question, but most
companies selling cars in North America have similar formats. Since we
know our car is a Ford or a Mazda, it's fairly easy to decode what
HT82H means.
The first digit, H, is a safety code and indicates that the car has front
and side airbags. Other digits include "B" for the use of active belts but
no airbags. The letters "L" and "F" or "K" indicate different
generations of airbags.
Digits five through seven, in this case T82, tell us what kind of vehicle
this is. Using this handy guide to Ford VINs we know that Ford uses
"T8_" for the Mustang coupe. Even more exciting, it's a either a
Mustang Bullitt, Coupe GT or Coupe Shelby GT. If someone is trying to
sell you a Mustang and claims it's a "GT" hardtop but its VIN says
"T80," they're lying to you.
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The most important digit, if you're trying to determine what engine the
car has, is the eighth one. In this case, the digit H indicates that we
have a car with Ford's 4.6-liter modular V-8. If the digit was an "N," it
would indicate a V-6 and we'd know something was fishy. If the code
was an "S," we'd know we had a Coupe Shelby GT on our hands.

Step 5: Using the Check Digit

Most companies use the ninth digit, always a number, as a check digit.
Using a complex mathematical equation, they can determine if the
product of multiplying all of the numbers and letters in the VIN besides
the 9th digit, when divided by 11, has a remainder equal to the check
digit. If it does, the VIN is real.
If you're a total math nerd, you can follow these instructions. If you're
a little lazier, you can use this calculator to determine if your check
digit is correct. Ours is correct, so we know either the VIN plate is legit
or, at least, its creator is really good at math.

Step 6: Determining the Model Year

Since 1980, different countries have used slight variations of model


years. Still, there's a generally accepted format that most companies use
for the 10th digit. If the car was built between 2001 and 2009, the digits
0-8 will appear here. Our vehicle's 8 tells us that it's a 2008 modelyear car.

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If the car in question was built between 1980 and 2000, the code will be
"A-Y," sequentially excluding the three letters not found in any VIN.
For example, a car built in 1994 would have the code "R," and a car
from 2000 would use "Y." Starting in 2010, most manufacturers and
vehicles reset to the letter "A."

Step 7: Decoding Where it Was Built

The 11th digit is for identifying where the vehicle was made. There's no
set standard for this, so you need to consult a list of the company's
manufacturing facilities and VIN codes. These are almost all up on
Wikipedia. For instance, here's a page with a list of Ford factories. This
tells us that the 5 in our VIN matches up to the AutoAlliance plant in
Flat Rock, Michigan.

Step 8: The Sequence of Model Production

The final six digits indicate how far along into a given production run
that the vehicle was built but, because some companies make a lot of a
certain model, this isn't necessarily a number. In the case of our
Mustang, the digit is a number: 113456.
For most car owners, this number isn't very significant. For special
models, such as limited edition Corvettes or end-of-production
vehicles, this can be the best way to determine if the vehicle is what it
purports to be. Most Mustangs are produced on the same assembly line
so, in this case, we can't determine anything special about our car.

Step 9: Compare What The Number Shows To Your Vehicle

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When we zoom out, it's clear that the car is a 2008 Ford Mustang
Bullitt. Compare this to what is shown in the VIN number, and it
appears that our car checks out.

For more information about VINs, check out DriverSide.com


[Supporting Info: Mustang Attitude, CarSpace, Wikipedia, MotiveMag]
Photo Credit: Serious Wheels, dwaycar
This story originally appeared on Jalopnik.com on March 6th, 2009 at 3:00 PM
EST.

All replies

Mad_Science

Matt Hardigree

3/06/09 3:11pm

It's worth pointing out that many dealerships will make keys
based on a VIN that you give them.
Which means anyone can walk by your car, pull the VIN, and
get a key for your car for 100 bucks.
It's been recommended that you cover the windshield VIN.
Also: first person to say "VIN Number" has to drink a jar of
pickle juice.
Reply

engineerd - Jalopnik Poet Laureate

Mad_Science

3/06/09 3:15pm

@Mad_Science: VIN Number...a product of the


Department of Redundancy Agency.
And, I did it.
Mmmmm...pickle juice.
Reply

c0de Mad_Science
3/06/09 3:17pm
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@Mad_Science: VIN NUMBER... VIN NUMBER... wait..


that wasn't a competition, was it !?.. dang it.
Reply

From a Buick 6 Mad_Science


3/06/09 3:19pm

@Mad_Science: Note to self: Whatever you do, don't


say "VIN number."
Shit.
Reply

Jo Schmo

engineerd - Jalopnik Poet Laureate

3/06/09 3:21pm

@engineerd thinks cannoli is deserving of a star: <IMG


src="[images4.wikia.nocookie.net]" < p>
Reply

Show more replies in this thread

TR3-A

Matt Hardigree

3/06/09 3:17pm

"... AutoAlliance International, which is a company building


cars for both Mazda and Ford."
Wait, what? There is a third company which actually builds
cars for two manufacturers? Is this AutoAlliance International
owned by Ford or is it owned by somebody else or is it an
independent company? This may be common knowledge to
you kids but us old timers still think of auto manufacturers as
being essentially self-contained.
Reply

MushyHeirloom

TR3-A

3/06/09 3:27pm

@TR3-A: Remember DSM? NUMMI? I think it's the


same deal.
Reply

UDMan

TR3-A

3/06/09 3:29pm

@TR3-A:
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Oh good grief, there are all sorts of these





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@TR3-A: Oh good grief, there are all sorts of these


damn joint ventures in the states. Auto Alliance,
Diamond Star (That the Mitsubishi plant that makes
Eclipse, Galant, and used to make Sebring and Avenger
Coupes), NUMMI in California (Makes Toyota Matrix,
Pontiac Vibe, used to make Prizm and Corollas), and
there are others that I don't know the joint venture
name (like the old Subaru/Isuzu plant in Lafayatte,
now a Toyota/Subaru Plant)
Reply

JawzX2, Boost Addict.

TR3-A

3/06/09 3:33pm

@TR3-A: Interestingly My 2000 Toyota Corolla was


assembled by a third party too, I don't remember who
it was but the insurance and auto parts people always
had a cow with the VIN because it was a US assembled
Toyota, NOT assembled by Toyota USA, and it's engine
was a Japan made 1ZZ-FD (NOT the 1-ZZFED!)
Apparently this was a transitional model and only a
couple hundred cars were assembled this way, too bad
it got totaled by a GandPrix, I might have had the
world's only collectible 2000 Corolla CE ;)
Reply

jpech uses the air pedal when he wants to go fast TR3-A


3/06/09 3:49pm

@TR3-A: I'm not an expert, but I think it's more


common that you realize for a "manufacturer" to
subcontract out the actual building of the vehicles.
BMW subcontracted out the building of the x3 to
Magna Steyr.
Also Bertone was a contract manufacturer. As is
Pininfarina.
Reply

Show more replies in this thread

rb1971 GTSF1-S55-Z3M-E9-SuicideConti

Matt Hardigree

3/19/10 4:00pm

WBSDE93401BZ98493
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Reply

rb1971 GTSF1-S55-Z3M-E9-Suicid

rb1971 GTSF1-S55-Z3M-E9-Suicid

3/19/10 4:07pm

@rb1971 - E39M5'er: Also, from a few years ago,


Chrysler ID # 8343193051.
Reply

Michael Menefee

rb1971 GTSF1-S55-Z3M-E9-SuicideConti

3/19/10 5:20pm

@rb1971 - E39M5'er: Nice. I've got BZ99930.


Reply

rb1971 GTSF1-S55-Z3M-E9-SuicideConti

Michael Menefee

3/19/10 6:11pm

@Mr. M: Cool! Don't know if you're at all interested in


upgrades, but just last week I got a 3.64 diff from
Turner Motorsports (who apparently construct the
diffs for Dinan as well as - historically at least Letterman's race team), which has been pretty
awesome. Not the right upgrade if you do a ton of long
interstate driving but great for my driving mix.
Reply

Michael Menefee

rb1971 GTSF1-S55-Z3M-E9-SuicideConti

3/20/10 11:31am

@rb1971 - E39M5'er: Nice. Yeah, Turner is a good


builder. Good call on the upgrade. I have a custom 3.62
w/ variable lockup in my E36 M3 from diffsonline, and
I like it. The M5 is the DD/highway cruiser though, so
you're right, a 3.6x is probably a little much. Sounds
like fun though. Enjoy it!
Reply

Rusty Van Horn

Matt Hardigree

3/19/10 6:43pm

1B3ER69E0XV502745
Yeah, suck it bitches
Reply
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Poom Rusty Van Horn


3/19/10 7:17pm

@JC Whitless: Viper?


Reply

Phantom Rusty Van Horn


3/19/10 7:18pm

@JC Whitless: SCA1L68567UX23019


Look, I can do it too.
Reply

tsarcasm

Rusty Van Horn

3/19/10 10:16pm

@JC Whitless:
A V10 eh' :)
Reply

porsche9146, 98 forever.

Phantom

3/20/10 12:13am

@Phantom_of_the_Roller: so it's manufactured in


england, but what is it?
Reply

Show more replies in this thread

Spencer Williams

Matt Hardigree

3/06/09 9:19pm

Can't lie, super super psyched you used a Mustang for the
sample VIN. But I must admit, I freaked out when I realized it
was possible my car wasn't built in Flat Rock.
Thanks Jalopnik for this post.
Reply

Spencer Williams

Spencer Williams

3/21/10 3:11am

@eggwich mcfly: No, it wasn't possible your car wasn't


built in Flat Rock. Auto Alliance has many different
plants, but the S197 is only built at the Flat Rock
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location. Dumbass noob go back to 4chan!


Reply

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