Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Longsword Fighting
A Ten Week Course of Study
by Perry W. Rogers
Revised:
Table of Contents
1. History & Basics!
2. Strikes, Cuts & Thrusts!
3. Master Strikes, Pt 1!
4. Master Strikes Pt 2!
5. Master Strikes, Pt 3!
6. Master Strikes, Part 4!
7. Four Displacements: Versatzungen!
8. Fight Tactics!
9. Advanced Techniques 1!
10. Advanced Techniques 2!
Appendix A: Ringecks Commentaries!
Appendix B: Class Structure!
Appendix C: Class Drills & Games!
Appendix D: German Martial Glossary!
Appendix E: Assorted Resources!
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Page 2
A historical introduction to Liechtenhauer and German longsword fighting traditions. Work through
the Veir Leger.
A. Historical Origins
Source Material
Current Interpretations
The original Ringeck commentaries were in an archaic German language (Swaibian), and was presented in mnemonic verses called
merkverse
Christian Tobler: Secrets of Medieval German Swordsmanship & Fighting with the German Longsword
Ochs Video: Liechtenhauers Longsword, Part 1
David Lindholm: Sigmund Ringecks Knightly art of the Longsword
There are only four basic positions which are useful in combat, this are Ochs, Alber, Pflug,
and vom Tag.
The first guard: Ochs (the Ox) / Stand with your left foot forward, hold your sword at the
right side of your head, your point directed at his face.
The second guard: Pflug (the Plough) / Stand with the left foot forward and hold your
sword at your right side above your knee,with your hands crossed, your point directed at
his face.
The third guard: Alber (the Fool) / Stand with your right foot forward and hold your sword
in front of you with your arms extended, your point directed at the ground.
The fourth guard: vom Tag ("From the Roof") / Stand with your left foot forward and hold
your sword at the side of your right shoulder or above your head with your arms extended.
And in this book, youll find written down how to fence from these guards.
C. Footwork
Footwork
Note: This is the first tenet of the long sword: learn to strike blows equally well from both
sides if you want to learn to fence well. Note: If you want to strike from the (your) right
side, make sure, your left foot is forward (at the beginning); if you want to strike from the
Page 3
left side, the right foot must be forward. If you strike an Oberhau from the right side then,
follow the blow with your right foot. If you do not the blow is wrong and ineffective, because your right side stays behind. Because of this the blow will fall short and cannot
travel in its proper arc towards the left side. If you strike from the left side
and you do not follow the blow, it too is wrong. That is why no matter from Stepping is not just a matter
which side you are striking follow the blow with the same foot. So you will of improving power, but range,
and edge placement as well.
succeed in all techniques. This is how you shall strike all blows.
Types of Stepping
Gathering or Lunging is generally done on the tightrope (i.e. on line forward or backward), and is used merely
to change the range between you and your opponent. This step does not tend to
Strikes should be timed
alter your defensive profile. Skeletal power is generated by the leading foot.
so that impact power is
Passing can be done on or off line. Your defensive profile changes with each step.
maximized by foot /
Skeletal power is generated with each step.
Exchanging your feet is done in place. Exchanging is used to alter the feet position, hip / shoulder motion
and alignment.
and generate skeletal power with the sword. Generally, the front foot is brought
backward, and placed next to the rear foot, which is then moved forward and/or
outward. Skeletal power is generated when the second foot lands.
Compass Stepping is used to move drastically off line. It is a passing step in which the rear foot first passes
forward and outward. The second foot then follows off line, and swings outward before it lands. The swinging motion of the second foot generates a lot of skeletal power as it lands.
D. Drill
Explain the purpose of Drilling (See Appendix B: Class Structure)
E. Play Time
Explain the purpose of Play Time (See Appendix B: Class Structure)
F. Open Sparring
Page 4
Body Mechanics
your left foot is forward (at the beginning); if you want to strike from 3. TARGETING: Use precise targeting
the left side, the right foot must be forward. If you strike an Ober- and be mindful of edge placement and
hau from the right side then, follow the blow with your right foot. If control. Do not lose sight of the
you do not the blow is wrong and ineffective, because your right wounds that would be caused to unside stays behind. Because of this the blow will fall short and can- armored opponents by sharp swords.
not travel in its proper arc towards the left side. If you strike from
the left side and you do not follow the blow, it too is wrong. That is
why no matter from which side you are striking follow the blow with the same foot. So you
will succeed in all techniques. This is how you shall strike all blows.
Edge Control
Move your
feet, control
your edge,
Watch your
tip
First set starts in Right Vom tag: UpR, LowL, LowR, UpL
Second set starts in Right Nebenhut: LowR, UpL, UpR, LowL
Third set starts in Left Vom tag: UpL, LowR, LowL, Upr
Fourth set starts in Left Nebenhut: LowL, UpR, UpL, LowR
D. Play Time
Baton Striking with Edge Control Game (from Ochs: Longsword DVD)
One partner wears a mask and protective gloves. He grips a baton in both hands so that there is at least 8 of
space between them. As he circles and moves, he will present the baton in front, or beside himself representing
target openings. The other partner strikes the baton with an appropriate strike, cut, or Master Strike. Careful attention should be paid to range, staying in an appropriate guard, striking power, and edge placement.
Thrust Targeting Game (from Ochs: Longsword DVD)
This game is just like the Baton Striking game, but uses thrusting target as the focus.
E. Open Sparring
Page 5
3. Master Strikes, Pt 1
The Zornhau Plays including Abnemen, Mutieren, Duplieren, and basic Winden.
When you thrust against his face from the strike of wrath and he notices this and
displaces the thrust with strength, pull your sword upwards, away from his. And Step left as you
then strike to the head from the other side, also along his blade. When you strike a take off: Abnemen
strike of wrath and he displaces it and remains strong at the sword, hold strongly
against it. With the strong of your sword, slide up to the weak (schwech) of his blade,
wind the hilt in front of your head while remaining on the sword (am schwert) and thrust
into his face from above.
When you thrust from the Winding as described and he displaces the thrust Step into the wind & thrust
by lifting up his arms and his hilt, stay in the Winding and take the Ort (point
or thrust) down between his arms and breast.
Note: When you engage at the sword ("binden") with strength and If he takes-off, turn the long edge
your adversary pulls his sword upwards and strikes at your head outward & push hard into the flat
from the other side, then bind strongly with the true edge and strike of his blade as he comes back down.
him on the head.
You must notice immediately, if someone is weak or strong at the sword if he binds at
your sword with a strike or a thrust. If you have noticed that, you shall know simultaneously, if it is better to fight him in the "before" (Nach) or the "after" (Vor). But dont engage
rashly in close-combat (Krieg), this is nothing else than Winding (Winden) at the sword.
The techniques
presented
here are
covered in
depth in a
later
class.
In close-combat you should do the following: if you strike him with the strike of Wrath and
he displaces it, lift up your arms and, at the sword, wind the point to the upper opening.
When he displaces (Versetzen) the thrust, stay in the winding and thrust to the lower
opening. If he follows your sword in the displacement (Versatzung), lead your point
through under his sword (disengage under "durchfhren") and thrust to the other opening
on his right side. This is how you can defeat him in close-combat.
If you want to break one of the four openings by force, then "Dupliere" at the upper opening, against the Starke (strong) of his sword, and then "Mutiere" to another opening.
Against this, he cannot defend himself and he will not be able to either strike or thrust.
Duplieren: When you strike a strike of wrath (Zornhau) or any other Doubling is done from farther out, but
Oberhau and he displaces it with strength, with the left hand, im- you must step off-line toward your
mediately thrust the pommel of your sword under your right arm. opponents pommel as you do this.
With crossed hands, behind his blade and in between the blade
and his body, strike him diagonally through the face. Or strike him
on the head.
Mutieren: If you bind against his sword, with an Oberhau or otherwise, wind the short edge at his sword, raise your arms and
thrust at the lower opening from the outside along his blade. You
can use that from both sides.
Done from close in, again stepping toward his pommel. Think of this as
gathering his blade. This one requires
DEEP stepping,and wide motiions.
C. Drills
D. Play Time
Baton Striking with Edge Control & Thrust Targeting Games from Ochs: Longsword DVD
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4. Master Strikes Pt 2
The Krumphau Plays and the Schrankhut Guard
3
4
This is how you should strike the Krumphau at the hands. When
he attacks you from his right side with an Oberhau or Unterhau, Use a deep, fast step, strike with the
jump out of the strike with your right foot towards his left side very tip of the sword to ensure the
and with crossed hands strike against his hands using the proper range.
point.
This is how you can Absetzen ("set aside") the cuts from above with the
Krumphau: If he attacks you from his right side with an Oberhau, step to- You need to get under his
wards his left side with your right foot and put your point in the Schrankhut. sword for this one. Strike
Practice this from both sides. From the setting aside you can strike him on with the short edge.
the head.
If you want to weaken a master, then while he strikes an Beat his sword aside by striking it on the flat
Oberhau from his right side strike a Krumphau with with the thumb grip as you enter Schrankhut.
crossed hands against his sword. When you strike him with
the Krumphau against his sword, from the sword immediately strike up- Use short edge at close range. If
wards against his head with the short edge. Or after the Krumphau wind farther out: wind and thrust.
the short edge at his sword and thrust him into the breast.
This is how you can break the Krumphau: If you attack him from your right side
with an Oberhau and he displaces this with a Krumphau with crossed hands You must be in a very
from his right side, then strongly hold your sword against his. And "shoot" strong position for
this. A step in as well.
(thrust) the point at his breast with your arms extended.
Another defense against the Krumphau: If you attack him from your right side with an
Oberhau and he displaces (Versatzung) this with a Krumphau with crossed hands from his
right side and if he pushes your sword to the ground, then wind towards your right side,
raise your arms over your head and thrust at his breast from above. If he displaces that,
stand as you are, with the hilt in front of your head and nimbly work with the point from
one opening to the other. This is called the "noble war" and with this youll confuse him
so much , that he will not know how to defend himself against your attacks.
Winden
To use many of these plays, you must step far and fast.
You must have quick hands.
In Schrankhut, you feel like a coiled spring.
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C. Drills
Vier Leger Drill
Right Vom Tag -- Left Phlug -- Right Ochs -- Left Alber -- Right Langort -- pivot -- Left Vom Tag -- Right Phlug -Left Ochs -- Right Alber -- Left Langort - pivot
Step through Krumphau Master Strike from right & left sides using ALL guard positions
D. Play Time
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5. Master Strikes, Pt 3
The Zwerchau Plays and various types of Feints
When you bind at his sword with the strong of your sword with the Zwerch
and he strongly holds against it, push down his sword to your right side Push his sword backward and
with your hilt. And immediately strike again with the Zwerch to the right side downward with your hilt.
of his head.
If you bind against his sword with the Zwerch and he is "soft" at Push cut as you step in, break his balthe sword, place the short edge at the right side of his neck, jump ance with your elbow, body and knee,
behind his left foot with your right foot and tear him over with the his left foot must be forward.
sword.
If you bind against his sword with the Zwerch and he is "soft" at the
sword, push his sword down with the Zwerch and lay the short This is similar to Step #4 above, but
you need to force his sword down
edge at his throat.
When you bind at his sword with an Oberhau or Step to the left, your hilt will be near your face, and
another strike from your right side and he strikes being under his sword will protect you. If you are farwith the Zwerch at your other (left) side, forestall ther away, step back out of his range, and hit his arms.
this with a Zwerch to his neck under his sword.
This is how you can strike to the four openings with the Zwerch: When you close in Keep your hilt up
with your adversary with the "Zufechten", at the right moment, jump towards him high when striking to
and strike with the Zwerch to the lower opening of his left side. This is called "strik- the lower openings.
ing towards the plow" ("zum Pflug schlagen").
When you have attacked the lower opening with the Zwerch, immediately strike another
Zwerch to the other side, at his head. This is called "striking towards the ox" ("zum
Ochsen schlagen"). And then strike swiftly alternating the Zwerch towards the plow and
the ox, crosswise from one side to the other. Then you can disengage from him with an
Oberhau to the head.
When you strike the Zwerch, you shall always jump to his flank, namely towards the side
on which you want to hit him. So you can hit his head. And pay attention that you cover Tactical Advice
the front of your head with the hilt while jumping.
Follow Ringecks Tactical advice in the final paragraph, except that a more straight ahead step may be required when more distance must be covered.
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C. Drills
Intermediate Guards Drill
Vom Tag - Kumphau -> Schrankhut - Unterhau -> Ochs - Zwerchau -> Phlug - Stich -> Kron - Oberhau -> Nebenhut - Zornhau -> Alber - short edge Unterhau -> pivot (Repeat on opposite side)
Step through Zwerchau Master Strike from right & left sides using ALL guard positions
Work side-to-side Zwerchau striking
D. Play Time
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from his right side, strike from your right side simultaneous.
with the short edge and extended arms Turn your body to
against the weak of his sword and hit him on adopt the Squintthe right shoulder. If he changes through, ing position.
thrust him into his breast with your arms extended. You should strike like this, too, if he faces you in the guard
of the plough or if wants to thrust you from below.
Note: You should always deceive him with your line of vision. Pay attention, if he Tactical Advice
fights short (feints).
You will know this when he does not extend his arms when striking. You should strike
then, too, move your point through under his sword and thrust him into the face.
Note: The Squinter breaks the "long point" and this is done as follows:
When he faces you and points his point against your breast or face with extended arms, place your left foot forward and look at his point. Feint a strike Your feint must
against his point, strike strongly against his sword with the short edge and look like it is going
"shoot" (thrust) , with a forward step with the right foot, your point against his to be powerful
throat, with your arms extended.
When he strikes an Oberhau, look at his head, as if you intend to strike him there.
But then strike against his blow with the short edge and then strike at the hands Step to stay out of
range of his weapon.
with your point, along his blade.
Note: the parting strike is aimed at the face or breast. Do it like this: If he is in the Step to stay out of
guard Alber, strike vertically downward with the long edge. And while striking, range of his weapon.
keep your arms up high and move your point to his face.
If you move the point at his face from above with the parting strike and he displaces Step in to get
the point with the (his) hilt up, turn your sword, lift the (your) hilt high above your enough height
head and thrust him down into the breast.
When you strike a parting strike and he displaces with the hilt high above his head,
then this displacement is called "the crown". From there you can rush in.
If he breaks the parting strike or any other Oberhau with the crown and tries to rush in, cut
him in the Arm under his hands and push upward, so that the crown is broken. Then turn
your sword from the low cut into a high one and free yourself in this way.
C. Drills
Master Strikes Drills
Step through Schielhau & Scheitelhau Master Strikes from right & left sides using ALL guard positions
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D. Play Time
Counters to oberhau and unterhau using Zornhau, Krumphau, Zwerchau, Schielhau & Scheitelhau plays
Page 13
The second strike is the Zwerchhau. It counters the guard Vom Tag. and be mindful of edge placement and
The third strike is the "squinter" (Schielhau). It counters the guard control. Do not lose sight of the
wounds that would be caused to unPflug.
The fourth strike is the parting strike (Scheitelhau). It counters the
guard Alber.
And beware of all displacements used by bad fencers. Note: Strike, when he strikes,
thrust, when he thrusts. And in this chapter and in the chapter on the five strikes you Tactical Advice
shall find written down how you shall strike and thrust.
If a strike of yours has been displaced, note: if an Oberhau of yours Stepping in to your left as you wind
is displaced, stay in the bind, move your pommel over his forward your pommel around his sword.
hand and tear it down; and strike him on the head simultaneously.
If you strike an Unterhau from the right side and he falls on your sword (i.e., Both of these are after
he pushes it downwards), so that you cannot lift it up, move the pommel over your sword has been driven
his sword and, with a snapping motion, strike him on the head with the long down following a strike
edge. Or, if he falls on your sword on your left side, strike him with the short
edge (Kurze Schneide).
From Goliath:
That is you should not displace as the common fencer does. When they displace then they hold their point high or to one side, so understand that they do
not know how to use the point in the displacement to seek onward and are often hit. Thus when you would displace, then displace with your strike or with
your stab and Immediately search for the next opening with the point, thus you
will not be mastered and struck to your damage.
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C. Drills
Intermediate Guards Drill
Vom Tag - Kumphau -> Schrankhut - Unterhau -> Ochs - Zwerchau -> Phlug - Stich -> Kron - Oberhau -> Nebenhut - Zornhau -> Alber - short edge Unterhau -> pivot (Repeat on opposite side)
Guard Breaking Drill (from Ochs: Longsword DVD)
One partner adopts each of the Primary Guard positions, and the other partner responds with the appropriate
Master Strike. Partners alternate this role for each stroke.
D. Play Time
Push Me, Pull You (from Schola St. George)
Each partner grips a sword handle in his right hand. He then grips his partners sword blade about 8 from the tip
in his left hand. The players are now connected by two swords. The goal is to push and pull on one, or both of
the swords in an attempt to get the other player off balance. This game may be played with stationary feet, or
with both partners moving and circling.
Page 15
8. Fight Tactics
often.
Note: Always fence using all of your strength! When you're close,
strike at his head and at his body, so he may not be able to change
through (Durchwechseln) in front of your
point. After the blow, from the bind, strike Use light blows to
light blows at his next opening, as is de- probe for an opening.
scribed in the section about different blows
and other techniques.
Note: This tenet is addressed to left-handers and right-handers. If you are a right-handed
fencer and you are closing to an opponent and you think you can hit him, do not strike the
first blow from the (your) left side. Because you are weak there and you cannot resist, if he
binds strongly against your blade. Because of this, strike from the right side, you can work
strongly "Am Schwert" ("on the sword") and you can use all techniques you like. So, if you
are left-handed, do not strike from the right side, since left-handers are usually not used
to strike effectively from the right side and vice versa.
Note: Above all other things, you must understand the principles of "before" (Vor) and
"after" (Nach), because the entire art of fencing is based upon it. "Before" means, preempting him with a blow or a thrust against an opening before he can hit you, so he must
defend/displace (Versetzen). So, be flexible in your defense and aim with your sword at
one opening after the other, so he cannot get through with his own techniques. But, if he
rushes in, start wrestling.
"After" means: If you do not succeed with the "before", wait for the
"after". These are the defenses against all techniques he uses against Use Indes to restore Vor
you. So, if you have to displace him, make the displacement simultaneously" (Indes) and from the bind, strike immediately at his nearest opening. So you win
the "before" and he remains in the "after". Also, you should
during the "before" and "after" notice simultaneously" Always watch for opportunities to
(Indes) how you can "work" against the strong or the weak exploit the weak part of his weapon.
of his sword.
This means: The strong of the sword reaches from the crossguard to the
middle of the blade, with it, you can hold opposed, if somebody binds Sword physics. The
against it. The weak reaches from the middle of the blade to the point. Here flat is also weak in
you cannot hold opposed. If you firmly understand this, you can "work" and the standard grip.
defend yourself very well.
Princes and Lords learn to survive with this art, in earnest and in play. But if you are fearful, then you should not learn to fence. Because a despondent heart will always be defeated, regardless of all skill.
All fencers who rely on displacing are deceived and defeated with the Feint and watch his
fault. When you close with him, feint any Oberhau to his left side. From reaction for an opening.
there (when he wants to displace it) you can easily hit another opening.
Page 16
The "Verkehrer":
If you bind at your adversaries sword with an Oberhau or an Unterhau, turn your sword so
that your thumb is down and thrust to his face from above. So you force him to
displace the thrust. While he displaces, grab his right elbow with your left hand, Step in quickly
place your left leg in front of his right leg and toss him over.
Here, you must deceive him twice while closing in. When you come close to him with the
Zuefechten, jump towards him with the left foot and feint a Zwerch to the left side of the
head. But then turn the blow over and strike to the right side of his head. If you
have attacked him on the right side of the head as described, strike immedi- Duplieren behind
ately at the same spot. Then go over his sword with the short edge and your his sword
hands not crossed, jump to your left side and cut through his face with the
long edge.
The Sprechfenster
Note: It is called the speaking window. If he binds your sword with a strike or a parry,
then remain strong at the sword with extended arms (Langenort) using the long edge.
Keep the point of the sword at his face and calmly note what he intends against you.
Note: If he strikes around with an oberhau to your other side, then follow and bind
strongly with the long edge toward his head. Or if he strikes around with a zwerchau,
then hit on his arms with a high cut. Or if he yanks the sword to himself and wishes to
thrust to your lower openings, then travel after him at the sword and thrust high.
10
Note: If he neither wishes to withdraw, or strike around, then you will work with Probe his defense
the sword using duplieren and other techniques as you find out if he is weak or for weakness
strong at the sword.
C. Drills
Guard Breaking Drill (from Ochs: Longsword
DVD)
One partner adopts each of the Primary Guard
positions, and the other partner responds with
the appropriate Master Strike. Partners alternate this role for each stroke.
D. Play Time
Push Me, Pull You (from Schola St. George)
Each partner grips a sword handle in his right
hand. He then grips his partners sword blade
about 8 from the tip in his left hand. The players are now connected by two swords. The
goal is to push and pull on one, or both of the
swords in an attempt to get the other player off
balance. This game may be played with stationary feet, or with both partners moving and
circling.
Page 17
9. Advanced Techniques 1
strike, travel after him with a strike on the head before he can get
his sword up again. But if he wants to thrust at you and pulls the sword
back to prepare for the thrust, travel after him and thrust at him, before Void his attack, and then strike
after his blade in the same arc.
he can do it himself.
A third Nachreisen
When he strikes short in front of you, travel after him with a strike to the
high opening. If he moves up and winds against your sword from below,
note: as soon as the swords clash together, fall on his arms with the long
edge and push him away from you. Or cut through his face. Practice this
from both sides.
"Indes" is a sharp word, which cuts all fencers, that don't know anything about it. And
"Indes is the key, which unlocks the art of fencing.
Fighting Techniques.
The Overrunning.
When he crosses swords, with a cut or thrust to the lower openings, then you will not
set him aside. Rather wait, until you may strike or cut at his head. So you defeat him Geometry play
because the oberhau and thrust have longer reach then unterhau.
The Absetzen
You must learn the art of setting aside so that his cuts and thrusts may be broken.
Do it like this. When he stands before you, as though to strike your lower opening, then
take the guard of the plow on your right side to open your left. When he strikes to your left
wind against his sword to your left and take one step with your right foot toward him: so
you achieve your thrust and he has been displaced.
The Twitching.
When you move in to strike him from your right with an Oberhau to the head and he binds
your sword, take a single step towards him, maintaining pressure against his sword. Then
jerk your sword backwards and away from his to disengage. Then strike his head from the
other side. If he sets this aside, then hit him on the other side and work skillfully to his upper openings with Duplieren and other pieces.
C. Drills
Fhlen Drill (from Fighting with the German Longsword)
Partners agree to a strike and counter-strike technique (I.e. Zornhau v. oberhau from the right). The
attacking partner then varies the degree to which
he is at the sword, and the responding partner
must use an appropriate technique based on the
attackers level of commitment. You will want to
pre-plan the level of commitment the attacker will
use at first. Start slowly and carefully as this skill
takes a lot of time and practice.
D. Play Time
Push Me, Pull You (from Schola St. George)
Each partner grips a sword handle in his right hand.
He then grips his partners sword blade about 8
from the tip in his left hand. The players are now
connected by two swords. The goal is to push and
pull on one, or both of the swords in an attempt to
get the other player off balance. This game may be
played with stationary feet, or with both partners
moving and circling.
For all of these throws, use the equilateral triangle method for determining his off-balance point.
him with your right arm around his body. Take step to take you
him on the right hip and throw him to the nearly past him.
ground.
will you hold your sword with the left hand on the pommel above
your head and the blade over your back. Duck under his right arm, leave your right
leg in front of his and grip him with your right arm around his back, then throw him Use this one if you
behind you.
cannot spring all the
way past him.
When you come in, let you sword out in your left hand and hold it in with your right.
Knock his sword away with the hilt out of your right side. Spring your left foot in front of
his right, grip him with your left arm about his body take him on the left hip and throw him
to the ground. Be careful to make no mistake.
C. Drills
Fhlen Drill (from Fighting with the German Longsword)
Partners agree to a strike and counter-strike technique (I.e. Zornhau v. oberhau from the right). The attacking
partner then varies the degree to which he is at the sword, and the responding partner must use an appropriate
Page 20
technique based on the attackers level of commitment. You will want to pre-plan the level of commitment the
attacker will use at first. Start slowly and carefully as this skill takes a lot of time and practice.
D. Play Time
Push Me, Pull You (from Schola St. George)
Each partner grips a sword handle in his right
hand. He then grips his partners sword
blade about 8 from the tip in his left hand.
The players are now connected by two
swords. The goal is to push and pull on one,
or both of the swords in an attempt to get
the other player off balance. This game may
be played with stationary feet, or with both
partners moving and circling.
Page 21
Footwork
Note: This is the first tenet of the long sword: learn to strike
blows equally well from both sides if you want to learn to fence
well. Note: If you want to strike from the (your) right side, make
sure, your left foot is forward (at the beginning); if you want to
strike from the left side, the right foot must be forward. If you
strike an Oberhau from the right side then, follow the blow with
your right foot. If you do not the blow is wrong and ineffective,
because your right side stays behind. Because of this the blow
will fall short and cannot travel in its proper arc towards the left
side. If you strike from the left side and you do not follow the
blow, it too is wrong. That is why no matter from which side you
are striking follow the blow with the same foot. So you will succeed in all techniques. This is how you shall strike all blows.
Tactical Basics
if somebody binds against it. The weak reaches from the middle
of the blade to the point. Here you cannot hold opposed. If you
firmly understand this, you can "work" and defend yourself very
well.
Princes and Lords learn to survive with this art, in earnest and
in play. But if you are fearful, then you should not learn to fence.
Because a despondent heart will always be defeated , regardless of all skill.
Note: these are the names of the main techniques of the art of
the long sword, whose names are chosen in such a way that
you may understand them better. There are seventeen techniques and they start with the five strikes.
1. The first strike is the strike of wrath (Zornhau)
2. The second one is the "crooked strike" (Krumphau)
3. The third one is the Zwerchhau
4. The fourth one is the squinting strike (Schielhau)
5. And the fifth one is the "parting strike" (Scheitelhau)
6. Sixth there are the four basic guards
7. Seventh there are the four techniques of displacement (Versetzen)
8. Eighth there is the Nachreissen ("Traveling after")
9. Ninth there is the Overrunning (Ueberlaufen)
10. Tenth there is the setting aside (Absetzen)
11. Number eleven is the changing through (Durchwechseln)
12. The twitching (Zucken)
13. The running through (Durchlaufen)
14. The cutting off (Abschneiden)
15. The pressing of the hands
16. The "Hanging"
17. And finally there is the Winding
Note: When your adversary strikes at you from his right side
with a strike from above (Oberhau), then hit with a strike of
wrath from your right shoulder against it. Strike with your true
edge and in your strong. When he is weak at the sword then,
thrust into his face along his blade.
When you thrust against his face from the strike of wrath and he
notices this and displaces the thrust with strength, pull your
sword upwards, away from his. And then strike to the head
from the other side, also along his blade. When you strike a
strike of wrath and he displaces it and remains strong at the
sword, hold strongly against it. With the strong of your sword,
slide up to the weak (schwech) of his blade, wind the hilt in front
of your head while remaining on the sword (am schwert) and
thrust into his face from above.
When you thrust from the Winding as described and he displaces the thrust by lifting up his arms and his hilt, stay in the
Winding and take the Ort (point or thrust) down between his
arms and breast.
Note: When you engage at the sword ("binden") with strength
and your adversary pulls his sword upwards and strikes at your
head from the other side, then bind strongly with the true edge
and strike him on the head.
You must notice immediately, if someone is weak or strong at
the sword if he binds at your sword with a strike or a thrust. If
you have noticed that, you shall know simultaneously, if it is
better to fight him in the "before" (Nach) or the "after" (Vor). But
dont engage rashly in close-combat (Krieg), this is nothing else
than Winding (Winden) at the sword.
Page 22
this with a Krumphau with crossed hands from his right side
and if he pushes your sword to the ground, then wind towards
your right side, raise your arms over your head and thrust at his
breast from above. If he displaces that,stand as you are, with
the hilt in front of your head and nimbly work with the point
from one opening to the other. This is called the "noble war"
and with this youll confuse him so much , that he will not know
how to defend himself against your attacks.
These are the four openings you should aim at in combat. The
first opening is the right side, the second opening is the left side
above the belt. The other openings are the right and left side
below the belt. Already pay attention to the openings when you
are closing in, aim at the ones he (your adversary) exposes.
Thrust with the "long point" (Langer Ort), use the "traveling after" (Nachreissen) and all other opportunities. Dont pay attention to what hes up to, fence securely and youll hit so outstandingly, that hell not be able to get through with his own
techniques.
If you want to break one of the four openings by force, then
"Dupliere" at the upper opening, against the Starke (strong) of
his sword, and then "Mutiere" to another opening. Against this,
he cannot defend himself and he will not be able to either strike
or thrust.
Duplieren: When you strike a strike of wrath (Zornhau) or any
other Oberhau and he displaces it with strength, with the left
hand, immediately thrust the pommel of your sword under your
right arm. With crossed hands, behind his blade and in between
the blade and his body, strike him diagonally through the face.
Or strike him on the head.
The Zwerchhau
This is how you can work with the stark (strong) from the
Zwerch: If you strike with the Zwerch, pay attention to strike
strongly with the strong of your sword against his blade. If he
strongly holds against it, strike him -at the sword- on the head
behind his blade with your hands crossed. Or cut him trough
the face.
When you bind at his sword with the strong of your sword with
the Zwerch and he strongly holds against it, push down his
sword to your right side with your hilt. And immediately strike
again with the Zwerch to the right side of his head.
If you bind against his sword with the Zwerch and he is "soft" at
the sword, place the short edge at the right side of his neck,
jump behind his left foot with your right foot and tear him over
with the sword.
If you bind against his sword with the Zwerch and he is "soft" at
the sword, push his sword down with the Zwerch and lay the
short edge at his throat.
The Krumphau:
This is how you should strike the Krumphau at the hands. When
he attacks you from his right side with an Oberhau or Unterhau,
jump out of the strike with your right foot towards his left side
and with crossed hands strike against his hands using the
point.
This is how you can Absetzen ("set aside") the cuts from above
with the Krumphau: If he attacks you from his right side with an
Oberhau, step towards his left side with your right foot and put
your point in the Schrankhut. Practice this from both sides.
From the setting aside you can strike him on the head.
If you want to weaken a master, then while he strikes an Oberhau from his right side strike a Krumphau with crossed hands
against his sword. When you strike him with the Krumphau
against his sword, from the sword immediately strike upwards
against his head with the short edge. Or after the Krumphau
wind the short edge at his sword and thrust him into the breast.
When he strikes an Oberhau from his right shoulder, pretend as
if you are going to bind against his sword with a Krumphau. But
let your strike fall short, lead your point trough under his sword
and wind your hilt over your head and to your right side. Then
thrust him in the face.
This is how you can break the Krumphau: If you attack him from
your right side with an Oberhau and he displaces this with a
Krumphau with crossed hands from his right side, then strongly
hold your sword against his. And "shoot" (thrust) the point at his
breast with your arms extended.
Another defense against the Krumphau: If you attack him from
your right side with an Oberhau and he displaces (Versatzung)
This is how you can strike to the four openings with the Zwerch:
When you close in with your adversary with the "Zufechten", at
the right moment, jump towards him and strike with the Zwerch
to the lower opening of his left side. This is called "striking towards the plow" ("zum Pflug schlagen").
When you have attacked the lower opening with the Zwerch,
immediately strike another Zwerch to the other side, at his
head. This is called "striking towards the ox" ("zum Ochsen
schlagen"). And then strike swiftly alternating the Zwerch towards the plow and the ox, crosswise from one side to the
other. Then you can disengage from him with an Oberhau to the
head.
When you strike the Zwerch, you shall always jump to his flank,
namely towards the side on which you want to hit him. So you
can hit his head. And pay attention that you cover the front of
your head with the hilt while jumping.
The "Verkehrer":
thrust. While he displaces, grab his right elbow with your left
hand, place your left leg in front of his right leg and toss him
over.
Stand with the left foot forward and hold your sword at your
right side above your knee,with your hands crossed, your point
directed at his face.
Here, you must deceive him twice while closing in. When you
come close to him with the Zuefechten, jump towards him with
the left foot and feint a Zwerch to the left side of the head. But
then turn the blow over and strike to the right side of his head.
If you have attacked him on the right side of the head as described, strike immediately at the same spot. Then go over his
sword with the short edge and your hands not crossed, jump to
your left side and cut through his face with the long edge.
The "Squinter":
Stand with your right foot forward and hold your sword in front
of you with your arms extended, your point directed at the
ground.
The fourth guard: vom Tag ("From the Roof")
Stand with your left foot forward and hold your sword at the
side of your right shoulder or above your head with your arms
extended.
And in this book, youll find written down how to fence from
these guards.
You have heard previously, that you shall fight only from four
guards. Now, you shall get to know the four displacements,
which are four strikes.
The first strike is the "crooked strike" (Krumphau). It counters
(literally "breaks") the guard (Hut) ochs.
The second strike is the Zwerchhau. It counters the guard Vom
Tag.
The third strike is the "squinter" (Schielhau). It counters the
guard Pflug.
Note: The Squinter breaks the "long point" and this is done as
follows:
When he faces you and points his point against your breast or
face with extended arms, place your left foot forward and look
at his point. Feint a strike against his point, strike strongly
against his sword with the short edge and "shoot" (thrust) , with
a forward step with the right foot, your point against his throat,
with your arms extended.
There are only four basic positions which are useful in combat,
this are Ochs, Alber, Pflug, and vom Tag.
The first guard: Ochs (the Ox)
Stand with your left foot forward, hold your sword at the right
side of your head, your point directed at his face.
The second guard: Pflug (the Plough)
If you strike an Unterhau from the right side and he falls on your
sword (i.e., he pushes it downwards), so that you cannot lift it
up, move the pommel over his sword and, with a snapping motion, strike him on the head with the long edge. Or, if he falls on
your sword on your left side, strike him with the short edge
(Kurze Schneide).
If you strike an Oberhau from the right and if you want to end
the fight, then note: when he displaces, immediately strike
around (i.e., to the other side) with the Zwerchhau. Grab the
blade of you sword with the left hand and thrust into his face.
Or attack one of the other openings you can reach best.
There are two kinds of Nachreissen, and you should learn both.
Use the first against an Oberhau. If he raises the sword to
strike, travel after him with a strike or a thrust and hit him in the
upper opening before he can complete the strike. Or fall on his
raised arms with the Lange Schneide (long edge) and push him
away from you.
Page 24
Another Nachreisen
Also, if you fence against him with low strikes or other techniques, and he forestalls this and winds against your sword
from above, so that you cannot move it up, maintain strong
contact with his sword from below. If he then attacks your high
opening follow with your sword, take the weak of his blade with
your long edge, push it down and thrust into his face.
The "Fuhlen" ("feeling") and the word "Indes" ("while" or "during")
You shall learn and understand both the word "Fuhlen" and the
word "Indes", because these two belong together and together
they account for the greatest art and skill in fencing. Therefore
remember: if one binds against the others sword, you shall notice right in the moment when the blades make contactwhether he has bound hard or soft. And as soon as you have
noticed this, remember the word "Indes": this means that you
should attack the next opening immediately and nimbly, hard or
soft. So he will be defeated before he knows it himself.
Likewise, you shall remember the word "Indes" during all binds
at the sword, because "Indes" dupliert" and "Indes" mutiert,
"Indes" rushes through and "Indes" takes the 'Schnitt', "Indes"
wrestles and "Indes" disarms him, "Indes" in the art of fencing- does, what your heart desires.
"Indes" is a sharp word, which cuts all fencers, that don't know
anything about it. And "Indes is the key, which unlocks the art
of fencing.
A third Nachreisen
Fighting Techniques.
The Overrunning.
The Absetzen
You must learn the art of setting aside so that his cuts and
thrusts may be broken.
Do it like this. When he stands before you, as though to strike
your lower opening, then take the guard of the plow on your
right side to open your left. When he strikes to your left wind
against his sword to your left and take one step with your right
foot toward him: so you achieve your thrust and he has been
displaced.
When you stand opposite him in the guard of the plow on your
left side and he strikes towards your open left side move your
sword high to your left side, with the hilt before your face. Take
one step towards him with right foot and thrust through his
face.
Do it like this: if he wants to engage you in a bind against Cut or
Thrust, so let the point/thrust slide through under his sword and
stick/stab him in the other side. There you find him exposed.
The Twitching.
When you move in to strike him from your right with an Oberhau
to the head and he binds your sword, take a single step towards him, maintaining pressure against his sword. Then jerk
your sword backwards and away from his to disengage. Then
strike his head from the other side. If he sets this aside, then hit
him on the other side and work skillfully to his upper openings
with Duplieren and other pieces.
The Walkthrough.
A Second Walkthrough.
When you come in, let you sword out in your left hand and hold
it in with your right. Knock his sword away with the hilt out of
your right side. Spring your left foot in front of his right, grip him
with your left arm about his body take him on the left hip and
throw him to the ground. Be careful to make no mistake.
When you come in, let you sword out in your left hand and hold
it in with your right. Knock his sword away with the hilt out of
your right side. Spring with the left foot behind his right. Grip
him with the left arm around the chest, throw him over your leg
behind you.
When you come in, let you sword out in your left hand and hold
it in with your right. Throw the pommel over his right arm, and
tear it downwards. Grab his right elbow, spring your left foot
before his right and pull him over your leg so that he goes over
your right side.
If someone comes in close to you, then use your left hand and
drive with it over his right arm. Seize his sword at the handle
between his two hands and pull it to your left side. Thus you
take the sword from him and it will go badly for him.
Taking a Sword.
Page 25
This Class Structure has been adapted from Schola St. George.
Review Previous Key Concepts & Drills
This part, at the beginning of each class serves to
remind students of what has been covered thus far.
There is also a safety lecture each and every session.
Introduce
The first step in presenting the material to students
is to provide the historical background for the master involved and for the weapon at hand.
Next, elements of the techniques are distilled and
presented, verbally, physically and recorded in at
least written--if not photographic--form to key the
student's memory. This presentation will over time
become ever-more refined, and will incorporate
much of what is continually learned from new students with diverse martial backgrounds.
The instructor then steps through the technique
with the students, correcting gross and subtle
errors.
Drill
Next, the students follow drills designed to build
muscle and intellectual memory for the movements
involved. Usually these are repetition drills that
should be done outside of class as well as within. It
often takes hundreds, or even thousands of repetitions for a student to integrate a technique; hence it
is absolutely critical that students do key drills at
home--daily if possible.
Generally, it is good to review drills for a couple of
weeks after introducing them, encouraging students to do extra repetitions or custom drills to correct specific issues.
Often, drills incorporate extremely slow movements. Speed gains little except at the very end of
the process; when moving slow, you're working on
position. To work on timing, use focused sparring.
Students should not, in drill, attempt to "win" the
engagement, but must be cooperative or resistant
according to the instructor's direction.
Drill creates the how of a particular fighting technique; focused sparring teaches when.
Play Time
Play Time exercises not only work physical skills,
but also build the mental aspects of the fight, in
particular initiative, timing, balance, and endurance.
Such play helps to keep the students involved in
the hard work that is training.
Open Sparring
To finalize the benefits and to work on initiative,
timing, courage and the other virtues, open sparring is extremely beneficial as well as being rewarding and entertaining. Students should spar in whatever tradition they come to the WMA through, attempting to integrate focused sparring-built techniques into their fights whenever possible.
Open sparring usually comprises only a small potential of class time.
ARMA's four general rules free-play:
Placement: using good edge alignment and targeting
Intent: striking with some degree of force in proper
range to ensure actual contact and in a manner that
has sufficient motion to simulate the inertia of a real
damaging blow
Control: not hitting too hard or too fast to prevent
injury, plus not hitting off target
Time-on-Target: connecting with a sufficient interval
of time whereby the weapon makes contact in order
to simulate the energy that would have impacted or
penetrated
Page 26
Baton Striking with Edge Control Game (from Ochs: Longsword DVD)
One partner wears a mask and protective gloves. He grips a baton in both hands so that there is at least 8 of
space between them. As he circles and moves, he will present the baton in front, or beside himself representing
target openings. The other partner strikes the baton with an appropriate strike, cut, or Master Strike. Careful attention should be paid to range, staying in an appropriate guard, striking power, and edge placement.
Step through each Master Strike from right & left sides using ALL guard positions
Using good hand protection, partners attempt to slap each others hands with the boffer dagger. Only the hands
are valid targets. Both hands must stay in front of your body at all times. Free advice: keep moving!
First set starts in Right Vom tag: UpR, LowL, LowR, UpL
Second set starts in Right Nebenhut: LowR, UpL, UpR, LowL
Third set starts in Left Vom tag: UpL, LowR, LowL, Upr
Fourth set starts in Left Nebenhut: LowL, UpR, UpL, LowR
Winden Game
Using boffer swords, masks and gloves, partners attempt to wind against each other in order to execute a thrust
from the bind. The swords should remain in a bind at all times, and players may not step out of range at any
time.
Kali Drills
Sombrata
Down & Back
Heavens Six
Page 27
Ablauffen :(Running Off) Withdrawing the blade from an attack, before or after contact, by rotating it around the hilt to hit
with the false edge on the other side. Can be done singularly or
doubly. One of the primary ways of using a Kurze Schneide
attack. See Duplieren.
Abnemen :To move away or free yourself from a bind and make
another attack.
Abrayssen / Abraisen :(to break away) To push the opponents hand or weapon downward with the Gehiltz (hilt).
Abschnappen :(to snap off) To get free of a Band (bind) by
sliding or batting the blade away with a strong, controlled blow.
Abschneiden / Abschnyden :(cutting aside or cutting off or
to slice off) 1. Short drawing cuts known also as Schnitt
(slices), called Rakes in English, used at closer distances
against the opponents forearms and hands, they can be made
with both the lead and the back edges. These are drawing cuts
generally used against the opponents arms at close range.
Made singly or doubly (i.e., upwards and then down, or downwards and then up.) 2. To Slice over the arms from below or
above; usually with Langer Schnyde (Long edge). Abschneid =
Cut Away
Absetzen / Absezen :(setting aside) 1. The principle of timed
counter attack to deflect a thrust or parry a cut. While Absetzen
in a specialized sense refers to thrusts with opposition the word
can also be used to mean a simple parry, usually followed by a
thrust. It is also used to denote a type of trapping move in
which the sword is hooked over the opponents blade, dragging
the opponents blade down to the ground. 2. To parry an attack
on the lower Blossen (openings), the attack is put down by
leading his weapon with the Langer Schnyde (long edge) while
moving towards the side that the attack came from.
Abwenden :("turning aside") To ward off a blow as with a
deflecting strike.
Abzug :(Withdrawal) According to Meyer, a stage of engagement where the combatant tries to disengage without being hit,
usually delivering a retreating strike to cover the withdrawal.
Alber :(fools guard) A low middle stance with point down.
This stance takes its name from Liechtenauers belief that only a
fool stays on the defensive, relinquishing the initiative to his
opponent. He acknowledged the superior defensive qualities of
this stance by including it among his four. See Posta Tuta di
Ferro.
Alter Schnitt :(After Slice or The Ancient Slice) A cut over
the arm of the opponent when he has repulsed a Nachreissen.
To move in to slice on the opponents extended arms as a Nach
action following the completion of his strike. Part of the secrets of fencing in contrast to the fundamentals of the art.
Am Schwert :(on the sword) Attacks made while maintaining
constant pressure on the opposing blade, also known as the
Winden (winding or turning). The second grouping of attacks
made in the Krieg phase of combat. These are attacks made
without leaving the opposing blade, maintaining constant blade
contact throughout the course of the attack. Better known as
the Winden (Winding or Turning).
Anbinden / Ambinden :(crossings of the blade or tied up)
The engaged position with weapons crossed in which the
weapons collide together in their moment of contact. Called
Incrosar a Mezzo Spada (crossed at half-sword) by Fiore.
Ansetzen :(place) An attack (or thrusts) aimed at a certain
body part.
Auffangen :(Catching) According to Meyer, a simple block,
wherein the opponents attack, rather than deflected off or
struck down, is stopped by interposing your own weapon in its
path. Essentially an edge parry. Meyer recognized it conferred
no particular advantage and recommended against it (in favor
of setting aside, Absetzen, and warding off, Abwenden). But he
tently illustrated.
Schwech :(weak) German masters divided the long-sword
into two portions, the weaker section of blade from middle to
point was known as Schwech (or Schwche, i.e. foible), used for
most thrusting and slicing but not parrying or binding (equivalent to the Foible of later renaissance fencing), opposite of Stark
(Starck). The further you move from the center-of-percussion
towards the hilt (Stark or forte), the weaker the strength when
cutting and parry. The blade middle was regarded as the starting point of the Schwech that increased further towards the ort.
Schwert Wechszlen :(Shifting the sword or sword change)
In Talhoffer, reversing the grip and grabbing the blade in HalbSchwert.
Schwertnemen / Schwertsnehmen :(Sword taking) Close-in
disarming or trapping actions. In the German schools close-in
techniques for wrestling at the sword or Ringen Am Schwert,
involved throws or grappling and disarming moves known as or
Schwertnemen (sword-taking) there was also ground-fighting
(Unterhalten, holding down). Called Gioco Stretto (Close Playing) in Italian, very useful and effective moves in long-sword
fighting, called Grypes and Seizures in some later Renaissance
styles.
Schwuch :A lever-grip on the arm, with momentum that forces
the opponent to fall. To Schwuchten, is to teeter-totter.
Sprechfenster :(Talking Window) The action of staying on
guard in a strong bind (Band) after an Oberhau is parried with
an upper Hengen, keeping the point directed at the opponents
face in order to forestall his action. The two weapons form a
kind of close window-cross. Ringeck describes it as useful for
anticipating the opponents action. Also called Brechfenster
("breaking window").
Stark / Starck :The stronger part of the blade nearer the hilt
(i.e., the forte) less effective for cutting but used for parrying
and binding. Opposite of Schwech. Also, powerful, effective
attacks or operations in the moment of contact between two
weapons (i.e., the Band).
Stercken :Attacks of particular effectiveness and those executed with skill (art); to linger in the Band with strength.
Stich :A sword & buckler technique from the anonymous German MS. I.33 or Tower Fechtbuch (c. 1295). A special kind of
Langort thrust in which the buckler is drawn back to the left hip
and the right elbow is advanced but sharply bent so that the
sword (held in supination) points down and backwards.
Storck / Sterck / Sterk :1. A strong Anbinden on the weapon.
2. The part of the sword-blade from the Gehiltz up to the middle
of the blade. 3. Attack of particular effectiveness and skill (art).
Also called Sterck, Sterk.
Streithau :(the battle cut) One of Liechtenauers blows.
Streychen / Straichen :To direct a blow from below against the
opponents blade to cancel their action. See Rota.
Stcke / Stuke :(device or piece, fighting trick). Techniques or attack combinations designed to get past an opponents defenses. A chain of techniques possibly in the manner
of a series of attack and counter drills. Key was the idea of
knowing the opponents likely response to each attack, and
attacking the opening that it creates. As the German masters
would say, one technique paves the way for the next. This was
not used initially, but appears in the later manuals. See Bruch.
Stcke und Bruch :(performance/maneuver and stopping)
Moving to strike so that the opponents attack is broken or
blocked before you strike. 2. Technique and counter or the
idea that every technique has a counter and every counter has
a technique, two major components of the German systems of
swordsmanship.
Sturtzhaw / Sturtzhow :(plunging cut, plunge blow, or
shifting cut) According to Talhoffer, a straight thrust from the
Hengen. According to Meyer a high strike used in Zuefechten
and made with the false edge with the hands high and the point
aimed at the opponents face. See also Talhoffers Prelhaw.
Taschenhaw :A Versatzung for mounted combat - a blow with
the Langen Schneide from the chief hut from mounted combat,
with which the sword is held in the bag of the slightly bent
left arm.
Tenner :The palm, the side of the hand that is not protected by
armor.
Through the roses :A 1555 edition of Johannes Leckuechners late 15th century fechtbuch, defines this as circular strike
with the lowest point of the arc aimed at the thigh.
Tuck lauff :A fast, secretive movement for the purpose of gaining a wrestling grip.
Tunrschlag :(From the Thunderclap) A close-in throw or
wrench according to Talhoffer.
Uberfallen :A cutting or thrusting over the opponents weapon
when it is held too low and his upper openings then become
exposed. Also, to hook and pull down, with your right hand
close to the Gehiltz, on the inside or outside of the opponents
weapon over his hilt, in the proximity of or directly over his
hand. See Uberlauffen.
bergreiffen :(Gripping Over) Using the fingers of the right
hand to wrap around or over the quillon (i.e., fingering).
Leckuechners late 15th century fechtbuch described it from the
Ochs position as: Grip with your right hand over your cross
guard into the blade, so that your fingers are standing in the flat
of the blade. If somebody is hitting at you, hit him with strength
that you just outdo his sword and twitch him your flat of the
blade at his right ear and go high in a displacement.
Ueberlauffen / berlauffen :(overrunning) 1. The concept of
timed counter-attack by outreaching the adversary just as they
attack, you move into or out of their action and strike their
closer targets exposed by their own attack. To outreach an opponent who attacks a distant target by targeting one closer. If
the opponent attacks a lower target, the swordsman doesnt
bother to parry; rather, he simply attacks a higher (and therefore
closer) target, outreaching the opponent. Typically a thrust, or a
cut using the very tip of the blade. 2. Any cut or thrust over the
opponents weapon, when he attacks the lower openings.
Umschlagen :To pull away after a blow for another to the opposite side. Similar to Talhoffers Dal Wegbinden.
Untere Ansetzen :Thrusts or techniques delivered under or
below the opponents guard (opposite of Obere Ansetzen)
Unterhalten / Underhalten :(holding down). Ground-fighting
techniques wresting or grappling moves included in the curriculum of the German systems of fighting, entering techniques
involving stepping in to trap the opponents forearms or grip
with you second hand or arm. Also a series of wrestling holds
used to immobilize and opponent once the opponent was
thrown to the ground. Once immobilized, the knight used his
dagger to kill the opponent, or tied his arms and feet with cord,
taking him prisoner. Also to hang on with a particular grip to an
opponent already thrown to the ground.
Unterhau :(under cuts) Any upward or rising strikes made
from below the waist (Unterhuten), either diagonal (Zornhau) or
vertical (Scheitelhau). Usually made with the Langer Schneide
(long edge).
Unter Schnitt / Undern Schnitt :To slice upward from below.
Valsch Ortt :A thrust to the face. A dishonest and dangerous
attack, that was only allowed in serious combat.
Vater Streich :(the father strike) One of Liechtenauers Meisterhau.
Verborgenes Ringen :(wrestling secrets) Dangerous
wrestling-grips that were allowed only in serious fights and not
for the public during fight school; Introductory remarks to their
use were demonstrated but not allowed to be used.
Verfhren :(Misleading) Meyer said Misleading enables many
moves and to remember when you show your intent, as if to
strike to one of your opponent's openings, do not do so, but
instead strike at another opening. Misleading is performed not
only with the sword, but also by presenting various false
stances to the opponent to lure or bait him into acting. The term
might also cover provoking tactics in this sense, similar to
Vadis falsit.
Verhawen :An offensive cut, made before the opponent can
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attack.
Verkehren / Das Verkehrer :According to Ringeck, a technique
where if you bind at the adversaries sword with an Oberhau or
an Unterhau, turn your sword so that your thumb is down and
you thrust to his face from above, forcing him to displace the
thrust, then grabbing his right elbow with your left hand place
your left leg in front of his right leg and to toss him over. Also, a
trapping technique of Joachim Meyer where the swordsman
hooks the opposing blade and carries it down to the ground,
sensing soft pressure from his opponent in engagement. Once
the opponents blade is trapped, he can strike at his head or
use a variety of other techniques.
Verkerer / Verkehrer :To thrust from the Band with swords rotated about 180 degrees. The expression refers to the swordposture. (backwards upside-down, turn or turning)
Veller / Fehler :To fake a cut or thrust from an upper Blossen
(opening) to a lower one, the concept of feinting high to low.
Verschieben :(Sliding) From the Zornhut (Guard of Wrath) to
lift your hilt over your head with your thumb on the blade (or
ecussion) and catch a blow on the flat, then immediately wind in
and slice.
Versetzen / Versatzung :(literally displacement or to displace) The concept of a defensive action to put off an attack
by a deflecting blow or counter strike as opposed to an opposition block, employed with evasive stepping (or the displacements are four of these cuts). Ringeck stated there were four
Versatzungen techniques. Abwenden and Absetzen are examples of Versetzen.
Verstllen :According to Meyer, the action of keeping the
blades stark pressed against the opponents arm or weapon
until an opening appears and a quick slice is used. See Bleiben
and Umschlagen.
Verzuckter Hau:(twitched strike) A term from the mid-15th
century Codex Wallerstein text.
Vidilpoge :(literally the fiddle-stick) A sword & buckler technique from the anonymous German MS. I.33 or Tower Fechtbuch (c. 1295). A movement in which the fighter holds his
sword essentially at right angles across his outstretched left
arm.
Vom Dach / Vom tag :(from the roof or from above) A high
guard, with the arms high over the head and the left foot is forward. Best suited for delivering strong cuts and threatening
blows.
Vom Schwert :(from the sword) The first group of techniques
allocated to the Krieg phase. These are made by suddenly lifting off pressure or moving away from the opponents blade.
Vor :(before) The offensive principle of fighting, aggressively
taking the initiative, opposite of Nach (After).
According to Liechtenauers teachings, a good swordsman always attacks first, seizing the initiative before his opponent has
the chance.
Vor Fechten :(attacking before) One of the three ways of
overcoming an opponents attack.
Vorfechter :A provost or advanced student in the Fechtschulen.
Waage :("scale" or balance) A low firm body position of balance in whatever stance you use. The standard fighting position with legs and arms slightly bent. Also: To make a Wrestling
grip on the elbow of the opponent and throw over your left foot,
before he puts his right foot down and is in a delicate equilibrium. The term assumes that the throw - like with a scales - is
only possible through the delicate balance-relationship corresponding.
Was sehrt, das lehrt :(What hurts, teaches) The idea in the
Fechtschulen that pragmatic knowledge follows only from realistic instruction and earnest practice (i.e., no pain, no gain).
Wechsel :(Change) A term used by Joachim Meyer when re-
ferring to turning over the blade in a Tail guard from one edge to
the other. Wechsel can mean a change of the stance from a
position with short-edge facing the opponent (right leg lead, the
blade forward, point down and to the left). This is a position
which actually results from a diagonal right-to-left downward
(Zornhau) cut. Similar to Fiores Boar guard.
Wechselhau / Wechssler :(changing cut or Changer ) An
attack, that is parried/deflected, suddenly changes into a cut
directed against another unprotected target.
Weckemeister :From the Pflug stance, to displace an attack
then deliver an upward thrust to the face from below.
Winden / Wennden /Wenden :(winding / wind or turning)
Any turning of the point or pommel around to strike or ward.
Close actions to maintain pressure and dominate the opposing
blade to get in and use either edge to slice (also allows you to
bind, trap, close, and seize). Any turning of the blade while
pressing on the opponents blade in order to bring one end or
the other of your sword (point or pommel) against them. To
wind the opponents weapon by the wrists before attacking.
Hallmarks of the Kunst des Fechtens. They typically involve the
application of superior leverage against the opponents blade.
The name is derived from the winding, turning motion of the
sword. Major variations of the Winden are the Duplieren, Mutieren, and Hals Fahen.
Werffen:("throwing" or "armlocks") From the Codex Wallerstein,
techniques, performed usually, although not always, with the
help of the blade.
Zeck / Zeckrur / Zecke / Zecken / Zeckruroren :(tick) To
deliver a slight hit with the weapon when in close combat. A
distracting hit or provocation. A light cut as a result of a Winden that often catches the opponent by surprise.
Zecken :Taps with the sword as a result of a Winden that are
comparatively light, but often catch the opponent by surprise.
Zornhau / Zorenuhau / Zorn haw :(rage cut or anger cut)
A powerful diagonal cut delivered from behind the right shoulder or back, either Oberhau (above the waist) or Unterhau (below the waist). Also any diagonal cut. One of the Meisterhau.
Zornhut :(guard of wrath or rage guard) A sparingly used
and vulnerable posture with the weapon pulled all the way point
down behind the back, but which allows the most powerful
blows such as Zornhau.
Zornort :To swing the sword back wide and then lifted over the
head to thrust. This is done with good body control.
Zu Legen :(laying on). A Winden variant, also known as a Hals
Fahen (neck catching).
Zucken :(Drawing) Generally applied to side-to-side cutting, in
a rownde or wind-milling/moulinet-type fashion. Alternately a
linear disengage or blade evasion.
Zucken :(twitches) A jerky freeing of the weapon from the
Band. When an opponent has over-stepped in the Band bringing himself nearer to you, you may take renewed cuts or thrusts
at the first opening. You will notice that during this, you remain
for another moment in the Band.
Zuefechten :(The Approach) The initial phase of combat, the
pre-fight or in pre-fencing before any engagement of weapons.
One of the two phases of combat where the combatants are
closing distance together to engage and an attack is made or
their weapons make contact (prior to Anbinden or else Handarbeit).
Zulaufent Ringen :Wrestling techniques used when first running together. Analogous to Zuefechten.
Zwerchhau / Zwerchhaw / Zwerch :(Thwart Blow) A horizontal or cross cut (also a slanting cut) made from either
side. A horizontal-strike to displace downward blows from
above. One of the Meisterhau. Also called Zwerch, Zwer Twerehaw, Twerchhau, or Geschrenckt Ort. Zwer = Thwart
Zwerchen :to execute a Zwerchhau
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Chivalry Bookshelf
Chivalry Bookshelf Web Site: www.chivalrybookshelf.com
Secrets of German Medieval Swordsmanship, Christian Henry Tobler, ISBN 1-891448-07-2
Fighting with the German Longsword, Christian Henry Tobler, ISBN 1-891448-24-2
The Longsword of Johannes Liechtenauer, Part I, DVD, Hans Heim, Alexander Kiermeyer, ISBN 1-891448-20-X
In Service of the Duke: The 15th Century Fighting Treatise of Paulus Kal, Christian Henry Tobler,
Paladin Books
Paladin Press Web Site: www.paladin-press.com
Sigmund Ringeck's Knightly Art of the Longsword, David Lindholm & Peter Svrd: ISBN 1-58160-410-6
Sigmund Ringecks Knightly Arts of Combat, David Lindholm & Peter Svrd
Codex Wallerstein, Grzegorz Zabinski with Bartlomiej Walczak
Equipment Suppliers
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