3rd Eye - Issue 2 - March 10

tion
cia
sso
3rd Eye
hoto phers’ A
g ra
iP
an
t is
Pak
An online photographic magazine of Pakistani Photographers’ Association (PPA)

Issue 2, March 2010
Do You Take This Glacier

To be Your Wife?
Glacier Marriages
Old tradition in Northern Areas
for water conservation
Cover Photos: Mazhar Iqbal (Pakistani Trekker)

Cover Story In this Issue
Do you Want This
Glacier Inbox
Letters to Editor/Readers’ feedback
on Ist Issue 3rd Eye
To Be Your Wife?
Glacier Marriages - An old tradition
Do you Want This 1
in Northern Areas of Pakistan,
for water conservation
Cover Photo: Godwin Austin Glacier

Glacier To Be Your Wife?
Glacier Marriages - An old
Photo Credit: Mazhar Iqbal water conservation tradition in
Northern Areas of Pakistan.
Muhammad Ismail Khan
Mubarik
Editing and Design
Village
Muzffar H. Bukhari An isolated Beach Front near Karachi
Content Editor/Layout Designer 6
Ameer Hamza
Caroline Watson 9
Copy Editor The World
Advisory Board
Through My Eyes
A visit to Venice
and Murano Island, Italy
Dr. Zaheer Sattar, Rahimyar Khan
Dr. Kiran Nasir
Kamran Safdar, Taxila
Ameer Hamza, Karachi
Sultana Tabassum, Karachi
Suhail Akhtar, Islamabad
Imran Miskeen, Islamabad
Chota Mecca
A land of Saints and
Dr. Kiran Nasir, Karachi educated people
Muzaffar H. Bukhari 13
Published by 27
Kalash
Communication Department The Lost Tribe
A story from
Pakistani Photographers’ Association The Hindukush Mountains
Head Office, Islamabad
www.flickr.com/groups/opp Shafqat Mirza
Ethics of
Issue No./Month Macro Photography
Tips and techniques on macro photography
Issue 2, March 2010 Awais Yaqoob 32

From
In this Issue Editor’s Desk
Dear Reader!
After inordinate but at the same time, unavoidable delays, the

35 second Issue of 3rd Eye is finally out - in front of you. Why it
Interviewing took so long, is a genuine question that everyone of you might
be thinking of. Well, a couple of reasons. The most important
GR Mughal ones were; (i) delay in receipt of material from the
An accomplished Wildlife Photographer contributors, crashing of my hard disk causing loss of about
six ready-to-publish articles, (ii) malfunctioning of my
Muzffar H. Bukhari Windows as a result of some virus attack, and (iii) last but not
least, problems with desktop publishing software (Coreldraw).
It was really like a nightmare. To cut the story short, I got this
problem fixed after trying about 15 different CDs of
Coreldraw. It took much of the time.
42
Sheikh Badin The feedback of the readers on the first Issue of 3rd Eye from
across the globe was overwhelmingly encouraging. It was
Hill Station simply unbelievable. I, on behalf of the whole magazine team
A forgotten paradise of NWFP thank you all for this encouragement and commit to continue
bringing more interesting and informative stuff for you in our
future Issues as well.
Muhammad Danial Shah
Some of the readers were so excited that they voluntarily
offered their services for the magazine. In this Issue, you will
see many new names in writers as well as in the advisory
board. These are the people who got inspiration from the Ist
45 Katasraj Issue. Of those, Ms. Caroline Watson from UK volunteered
herself for the magazine as a Copy Editor. With her
Complex involvement, we hope to improve the quality of the magazine
manifolds. Similarly, Dr. Kiran Nasir from Karachi, offered to
Where a water pond came
into existence with Shiva’s manage a new series of international travelogues with the
tears upon Sati’s (his wife) death name of “The World Through My Eyes”. The first story “A
travel to Venice and Murano Islands” under this theme is also
Haroon Mustafa written by her.
Some of the writeups received for this issue could not be

included this time due to one reason or the other. However, all
48 such material shall appear in the 3rd Issue of the 3rd Eye
Featuring Insha’Allah. This time, we plan to do it really on a fast-track. I
personally apologize all such contributors whose material
Kenny Irwin could not appear this time but it will be there in 3rd Issue in
any case, rest assured.
An American artist by birth, and
true Pakistani by soul. Finally, thanks to all who contributed to 3rd Eye in any form,
specially to Ms. Caroline Watson, on volunteering herself for
Muzaffar H. Bukhari copy editing. She has been very cooperative and proactive and
has literally acted as an ambassador of the magazine by
referring it to a wide circle of his friends through Facebook
etc. My thanks are also due to Dr. Kiran, for taking charge of
51 Interview with the “World Trough My Eyes”, and contributing the first story
of the series. She also has been helpful in talent-hunting in our
Iqbal Raza Khatri efforts to tap the new writers for the magazine.
A conversation with wonderful
This is all from the editor's desk. Please go through the
photographer from Karachi having
magazine, and don't forget to provide your valuable
a diversified portfolio
comments/suggestions. Cheers.
Interviewer: Sultana Tabassum Farooqi
Muzaffar H. Bukhari
Editor/Layout Designer
Inbox Readers’s Feedback on Ist Issue
Startling & beautiful photographs that will make you see Pakistan a-new. Who knew that the world biggest fort was in
sociation
Pakistan?! Or the sheer range of wildlife to be found here. This is the terrific e-magazine of the Pakistani
’ As
Photographers Association. I am incredibly impressed – and I am not simply being polite.
ers
ph
The design was extremely professional, in fact I had printed out a couple of bits to read and had it in my bag when I met
Pa
kistani Photog
ra
a friend on Saturday. She used to work for Borders(bookstores) and she commented on the presentation and said (as I
had thought) that it wouldn't have looked out of place on the glossy magazine shelf there. I hope very much Third Eye
will find its way there one day. The content too, I thought, was original and professional, and the spirit it had been
ye
created from inspiring! I look forward to the next edition – please send me the link when it is out. Among almost all of
the content, I liked the Bhong mosque article; the "biggest fort" was fascinating; and I definitely want to go to those
d E
mud volcanoes! I really liked ethe
female voice in there too, and g
in PA)
az (Pas
of original angles – theater photography, etc, not just the usual places. Nice to have a
I really respected the book The Dancing Girls of Lahore, I enjoyed that article a lot. I
r
ma tion 009
could go on… - I cannot hicgive
i a enough
u ly2 praise, and have to say am impressed that you are also part of this initiative.
rap soc 1, J
3
tog As Is s
ue
ho rs’
r ly p aphe
e
art og
qu ot
r (Caroline Watson, London)
A i Ph
tan
kis
Pa
Excellent!, I love the fact that it has articles on anthropological and natural historical issues, history, technology,
nature and especially CONSERVATION! I think the fact that conservation and a criticism of "Trophy Hunters" (fools
who think killing innocent defenseless wild animals with weapons is fun! when the Holy Quran PROHIBITS killing
for sport!) was excellent, and more such articles should be posted. I'd love to see more on issues such as Pollution -
especially the disease of the 'Shopper' plastic bagstwhich are destroying the terra firma. Also on illegal deforestation -
o
and any erosion of forested areas.
o tsp
H girls of Lahore - that’s a book I'm sure to get hold of if I am able!
I really enjoyed the book review on the dancing
yreview
The photos and layout is great! the lens it
s egion is faultless. More of the same please! All we need is a 'letters page' I
er
suppose. iv t r
iod oldes
B e c an (Ibraar, London, UK)
A th ist
in Pak
First of all I will say thanks otof you all, who did this. Nice one. Composition and stories are very attractive, Colors and
layout is impressive. I hope you will do more for your satisfaction and for Pakistan.
(Nadeem Khawar, Lahore)
Congratulation everyone...that’s really impressive work... very good effort... and it is comparable to other photo
mags...i agree to Tehreer that logo should not be with the white background... there is another suggestion that each
photo should have a precise location written over it comprising few words...as it will give a more detailed overview of
the place.
(Asif Mahmood)
Wow!!!! Wonderful work!!! Congratulations to all of you! I love it! Very informative articles and beautiful photos.
I wish to visit all these places with my family =) Insha Allah! Our country is so beautiful! Allah bless it!
PAKISTAN ZINDABAD!
(Ghazal Farooqi, Karachi
Thank you for your email. I did download the magazine and wanted to commend you on a job well done. I have
recently taken up photography (I have a long way to go) but it helps a lot to learn from the masterpieces displayed in
the mag.
I have forwarded your mag to quite a few friends and have heard only good things about it. I also forwarded it to a
British girl I met in North Pakistan and she sent back great compliments. Well done! Thanks.
(Yasir Malik , Karachi)
Do you take this
Glacier
Glacier
By Muhammad Ismail Khan
to be your wife?
V
illage elders, their heads together, intensely discuss and go on to decide
arrangements for a unique marriage ceremony. The task at hand is to Wild Flowers Near Glacier
choose a male and a female piece of ice, setting in motion a series of
rituals. Two chunks of ice, one each from a female and a male glacier, are
then transported to an appropriate location. Doing so, porters carrying
the pieces shall observe complete silence. Pieces of ice will then be placed side-by-
side, close enough for both chunks to eventually produce 'offspring' in the shape of
fresh water – a new source of irrigation and drinking water.
No, this is not an excerpt from the folklore of a primitive tribal society; this is, in
fact, a water tradition being practiced even today in the 21st century, in small
villages of the Karakouram in the Northern Areas of Pakistan. Already there are
many communities that have bred small glaciers in the Gilgit and Baltistan regions.
Photo: Hamid Khan

Breeding Glaciers in Ancient Times
As the stark reality of unpredictable water flow is dawning on the mountain

communities of Pakistan, the age-old tradition of breeding glaciers is being revived
with a fervor. Traditionally, village elders would gather to select a suitable site and
large blocks of equal sizes of one male and one female block of ice were then taken
from two different glaciers and carried on to the appointed location.
A Glacier in Karakoram Mountains
Photo: Hamid Khan
March 2010 1
3rd Eye – Pakistani Photographers’ Association
Baltoro Glacier from Paju Peak
Photo: Mazhar Iqbal

http://www.flickr.com/photos/pakistanitrekker/4016315536/
Goodwin-Austin Glacier towards Concordia

The gender of the glacier was determined by taking into consideration
factors such as the characteristics of the people living in the nearby
areas, where male glaciers were thought to produce a higher yield and
fertility as well as a strong male population. Female glacier areas were
said to have opposite characteristics, and were the home to a significant
number of beautiful women.
According to the tradition, it is vital to transport both blocks in one go,

and those carrying the ice were to do so in complete silence. Once
moved to another location, the blocks of ice would be allowed to
Photo: Mazhar Iqbal accumulate snow in the winter, thereby increasing in size and density.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pakistanitrekker/3992430960/ In summer, they were covered with a canopy to shield them from the
heat of the sun. A few years later the blocks of ice would be transformed
A view from Memorial to K2 Base Camp
into new glaciers, providing a new source of irrigation and drinking
and Skyang Kangri
water for the community.
Ancient Tradition Comes to Life
Only last year, a community-based organization known as Parbat

Social Welfare Organization (PSWO) in Chilas, Ddistrict Diamir,
transplanted glacier seeds in six different locations. Continuous
drought-like situations in many villages in the district forced villagers
to think of innovative ideas to harness water.
Photo: Mazhar Iqbal
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pakistanitrekker/4028601942/
A social activist, Mr. Manawar Khan, after reading about this tradition,
Glacial morain of Malongdati Glaicier motivated a bunch of volunteers from PSWO to initiate the breeding of
glaciers as a sustainable alternative to offset water scarcity in the
villages. He constituted a committee to look for an appropriate location
in the mountains; the committee members identified six such
locations. Searching a location where snow and ice could not melt for
eight to ten months of the year was not an easy task. The surveyors had
to sit and wait long hours at various parts of the mountains to check the
intensity of sunlight and length of shadows over them.
This was followed by another technical part of the project:

identification of male and female glaciers and arranging for their
Photo: Waseem A. Khan, WWF-P
2 March 2010
transportation. In this case, PSWO
volunteers traveled 230 kilometers to
Bagrot Valley near Gilgit, from where they
transported male and female glaciers in
separate vehicles all the way to Babusar in
Chilas. These were then transported non-
stop to Babusar, Babusar Shoti, Batogah,
Plaelot, Shregalihador and Gohar Abad.
The volunteers carried pieces of ice on their
backs up to the locations that were more
than 14,000ft thousand feet above sea
level. At the breeding locations, volunteers
had already dug up sixty-feet60ft-round
and nine-feet9ft-deep ditches. They then
placed male glaciers in the hole, swiftly
Photo: Hamid Khan
followed by the female ones, the union of
two producing a whizzing sound,
confirming to the experts that the marriage These blocks of Snow were transported in separate vehicles from Bagrot
had been consummated! Valley near Gilgit, to Babusar in Chilas, covering a distance of about 230
The Only Option Passu Glacier
Although the practice of breeding glaciers

was dying out, rapidly vanishing glaciers
and water springs provided a new impetus
for drawing on the traditional wisdom of
the communities. "I moved here some 20
years ago along with many other families,
as at that time this was a very fertile village
with abundance of water for growing wheat
and fruit trees. Today the glacier that was
feeding water to the village has dried up,
and during the last couple of years we have
An Un-named Glacier at Khunerab Pass
not been able to grow anything. Our trees
are dying and some of the families have
already moved out," says 70-year-old Gul
Hafiz, a resident of Dadrapuke village in
Ghizer (Oral Testimony Panos SA, 2003). Photo by: Muzaffar H. Bukhari
A Glacier on Khunjerab Top
The huge frozen water bodies have shaped peculiar

traditions among people frozen in time for centuries. They
nurtured their social norms, beliefs, customs and the
means of livelihood in harmony with nature, learning
from the nature and bestowing on nature their own
exuberance.
Other than building channels over mountain ridges to

steer water from springs and streams, the only way they
could think of harnessing a sustainable source of water
was to develop a glacier, since lifting water up on high and
rugged terrain was a rather difficult proeposition. Even
Photo: Muzaffar H. Bukhari with today's sparsely available power infrastructure, it is
an unaffordable wish. In numerous villages throughout
3 March 2010
Passu Glacier
Glacial morain of an unnamed
Glacier at Khunerab Pass
Photo: Muzaffar H. Bukhari
the region people planted glaciers, and a few hundred Photo: Muzaffar H. Bukhari
meters down the hill they would construct a little pound
or dam from where water could be channelled to the Trekking on Biafo Glacier
terraced fields and gardens. Every family would then use
stored water one by one, with village headmen keeping a
watch on the timely and effective use of available water
resources for irrigation and drinking purposes.
Gang Singhe that overlooks the town of Skardu is one

such hand-bred glacier. There are many folk tales
associated with this glacier, which from a distance looks
like the shape of a horse. Many in the valley believe that
the year the head of this horse-like glacier retreats away
from the rest of the body, a member of the royal family
will pass away. Strangely enough, such this has actually
happened during the last eighty years or so. Photo: Hamid Khan
Global Warming Threatens Pakistan's Glaciers and January used to turn into glaciers and the summer heat
would melt them gradually. The rain in summer, which carries
Changing weather patterns are massively impacting the moisture, falls over, hastening the melting process. Now, the
livelihood of these nearly one million people, whose most dangerous thing about glaciers is that in June and July we
basic mainstay is substance agriculture based on growing have stronger sunshine causing the glaciers to melt faster, and
wheat, maize, fruits, and raising livestock. we don't have snow stored as much as it should have been,
besides the gradual melting procedure is no more there,
"Glaciers are melting. From what I can estimate, they meaning faster melting. So rivers rise unexpectedly creating
have retreated a mile or so. In my village, Minapin, I floods –, thus many human settlements on riverbanks are no
recall walking over glaciers. The snowfall in December more there,” says Aga Yahya, a well-known community
activist from Minapin village in Nagar (Oral Testimony Panos
SA, 2003).
Shispar Glacier as seen from Abdigar
Devastating Impact on Local Agriculture
An increasing population is exerting stress on the limited 2%

percent cultivable land of Pakistan's 72,400 sq. km, of which
1% percent is currently under cultivation while and the
remaining 1% percent can only be utilized if the water- supply
potential is harnessed. Irrigated land usually consists of small
Photo: Hamid Khan terraced fields, which normally rely on glacial melt for water.
4 March 2010
An Un-named Glacier at Khunerab Pass
Fruit trees also constitute an important part of the local agriculture; some of the important fruits are apricots, almonds,
grapes, cherries, apples, peaches, walnuts and mulberries. In recent years, fruits and nuts have become an important
source of income for the villagers. The farming activities thus depend a lot on irrigation, as rainfall is low and erratic,
and over the years farmers have been using increasing amounts of water to irrigate their crops, thus affecting the
downstream flow of water. At the same time, sustained deforestation, degradation of pastures, declining woodland and
biodiversity, soil erosion and unorganized urbanization, as well as mining practices, plus the phenomena of global
warming, are all taking their toll on mountain watersheds in the upland.
Soaring populations both in the mountains and on the plains continue to press demand for fresh water, and conflicts over
water rights are a real threat in the mountain as well as in the plains. Effective conservation of mountain ecology and
promotion of sustainable harvesting of water is emerging as one of the major challenges facing us in the upcoming
years. Our ability to feed growing numbers of people largely rests on an economy based on judicious use of water for
life. The lowland regions serve as vital catchments for the Indus River, upon which much of the country's agriculture
and hydroelectricity depends so heavily. Around 90% percent of the lowland flow of the Indus originates in the
mountains of the Karakouram and Western Himalaya. The mountains of Northern Pakistan are thus in the true sense
'water towers' for the rest of the country.
The World's Highest Battleground
The region contains the most significant glacier systems outside the poles, including the 72-kilometre-long Siachan
glacier, famous for reasons other than being a water reservoir. The armed conflict between India and Pakistan since the
late '80s has placed this glacier on the world map as the world's highest battleground. One can imagine the subsequent
depletion and damage to the fragile glacier caused by over a decade of bombings. Other well-known glaciers situated in
the region like Biafo, Hispaer, Batura, Baltoro, Gasherabrum and Chomolungma Chogolungma are also reportedly
retreating at a high rate due to multiple reasons including global warming.
Although naturally formed, large glaciers are a gift from God and there might be no way we could recreate the centuries
-old processes of gradual accumulation. However,, breeding glaciers could be more than a symbolic option – ; it will
generate interest and public awareness for the sustainable use of rapidly vanishing water dripping from the mountains.
A Glacier in Khunjerab National Park

The author is a development professional
and an analyst, from Skardu, having
background in tourism, media and policy
development.
He is also a former elected representative

(2005-08) from the Asia Pacific region on
the 'Board of Directors of the Mountain
Forum.
3rd Eye – Pakistani Photographers’ Association March 2010

Mubarik Village
An Isolated Beach Front
Text and Photography:
Ameer Hamza
M ubarak Village may be the most popular beach name in Karachi

after French Beach but not many beachgoers actually are
allowed in. We were allowed to and we had our day.
Mubarak Village belongs to an obscure pseudo-Islamic sect

called Zikri, made famous by Zikri Daku of Lyari fame. The
Zikris often called the Mahdavia are a branch of Islam
The author is a Karachi-based, concentrated in Makran, Balochistan (Pakistan and Iran), that
frequently published freelance follows the teachings of Muhammad Jaunpuri. Zikris do lot of
photo journalist, and a travel things differently to orthodox Muslims. For one, their Hajj does
photographer. He is also Regional not occur in Makkah but in fact they have their own Kaaba at
Head of PPA, Sindh Region. His Koh-e-Murad (Mountain of Desire) located in Turbat, in
work is mainly focused on people, Baluchistan. However, www.wikipedia.org suggests that
culture, archeology, and travel Zikris perform Hajj at both places - in Mecca as well as at Koh-
documentaries. His work is e-Murad. Secondly, their prayers take place in a room called
exhibiting online at Ibadat Khana and they don't have to pray namaz; in fact they
http://www.flickr.com/ameerhamza/
prostrate and perform their own prayer called Zikir-e-Elahi .
and he can be reached at
ameer.great@gmail.com. Muslims belonging to other sects are not welcome in here as
they consider their places of worship pak (clean) and as only
Zikris themselves are considered 'pak', only they may enter. But
being primarily Baluch, they may allow mehmaans (visitors)
for the sake of respect, if not religion.
.
6 March 2010
Pretty faces
Our purpose wasn't religious by any stretch Their favourite spot is Churna Island, a of
of the imagination. We were very curious one-hour boat ride from the village.
about the beach and the people who lived Monsoons, of course, put that passion to Mubarik
there so one day we just went there. And we rest. Waters are so clean that fishermen
Village
were stopped at the gates. Generally, as per can easily spot fish under water.
their community rules, they disallow men- However, when I visited that place, I
only contingents to enter as they fear that could not see any fish despite the fact
men and boys will tease their womenfolk. that there is a sizeable presence of fish
But we went past the gates courtesy of our in that area.
friend, Iqbal bhai.
Apart from the clean waters and
The beach was spot clean - something I had extremely good fishing ground,
never seen in Pakistan. We have lots of Mubarak Village happens to be a
wonderfully located beaches but all are wonderful treasure trove for
extremely polluted and one may not bathe in photographers who want to shoot
them. Here, at Mubarak Village, waters are portraits. The kids are just wonderful,
clean and shades of emerald green may be confident and photogenic. They wear
seen amidst blues and whitish brown sands some really heavily embroidered dresses. Culturally one can find a rich
and the rocks. Fishing is good and locals Baluch heritage within the confines of Karachi (though locals claim
being extremely fine fishermen find time to that Mubarak village saddles Baluchistan; and, in any case, they
do so. They even load to the brim and go out belong to Baluch tribe called Kurd). Most of them are politically
at sea to do heavy fishing. inclined towards Bhuttos and, therefore, are a staunch PPP vote bank.
Mending the mangled net ain't easy as our country's

politicians would tell you. At Mubarak village things get
a bit easier under a nicely framed hut.
7
March 2010 3rd Eye – Pakistani Photographers’ Association
Detail of the Baluch
design pattern on a
girl's kurta A complex structure using wood, sea shells, and other items
marks a place for worship.
Mubarak Village also has few huts which may be rented for a night for as little as 500Rs. One may also receive
permission for a visit to the actual enclosed village. As women do not observe purdah there (this applies to most
agrarian Baluch tribes) prior permission is necessary to avoid any embarrassment.
A trip inside Zikri village is anything but common. Their

homes - built in a peculiar fashion and almost all of them
of wood -are unique. The style of windows is very
different. Inside, cleanliness is spot on. At one home we
found tremendous amount of carpets, clothes, pillows,
chadors and other items. On enquiring we were
informed that this was the jahez (dowry). But our
informer quickly added that close relatives and friends
often share the burden and so the family of bride can
relax a bit. But marriage remains an expensive once-in-
a-lifetime item. The couple is expected to pass their good
and bad times and not complain, a common trait in all
traditional set-ups. And the divorce is the end of many
relationships. In such a tight-knit traditional society An inside view of a Zikri House
anything and everything off the expected track is fatal.
At Mubarak Village begging is not permitted and visitors are requested not to entertain any beggars, all of which are
invariably school-going kids.
Huts on sea shore. They beg for ice cream, for
cake, a biscuit or a sweet. They
may ask you for a 10Rsnote.
Don't give them any money; if
you wish to help give them food
to eat. All items are gracefully
accepted by people who are
genuinely poor and
overwhelmingly illiterate.
Well, it is shining hard and fast

and the skin seems to be turning
a bit darker than it usually is. It
is a clear indication that we
must either leave or retreat to
the hut. We leave.
8 July 2009
Venice: The City of Canals
The World
A visit to Venice & Murano Island, Italy
Through
My Eyes
"If doing was as easy as knowing what doing good, chapels would have been churches and
Hovels humble palaces of princes"
William Shakespeare - "Merchant of Venice"
Text and photography:
I
t was May 2009. I was invited to attend the World Congress of
Nephrology (WCN) in Milan, Italy. Being a doctor, I got the
Dr. Kiran Nasir chance to visit different countries. Being an avid lover of
Dear reader, nature, my focus always is to capture the beauty Allah
Almighty has bestowed upon us humans. Thinking of going
We are starting new theme for 3rd Eye - “The to Italy only brought one name to my mind - Venice, the city
World Through My Eyes” , on regular basis. of canals, palaces and gondolas, the city of love and the
Under this theme, we will include one peace of lovers.
writeup and related pictures for the travel to
any location across the globe - by anyone. Venice (Venezia, Venesia), titled by The New York Times as
This idea is a brain-child of Dr. Kiran Nasir, the most beautiful city built by man, is a city located in
our respected member of PPA from Karachi, northern Italy. The city stretches across 118 small islands in
who is a consultant nephrologist by
profession, and a photographer by passion.
the marshy Venetian Lagoon along the Adriatic Sea. Famous
for its canals, the city is connected by more than 400 bridges.
The first story of the series is about Venice and
Murano Island, Italy, contributed by Dr. Kiran
herself. So let’s see Venice and Murano 9
through her eyes.
The Glass Museum of Murano Island, The Museo Vetrario
Church of San Mary & Donato
The Merchant of Venice, one of the most famous works by William Shakespeare, set in the well-known lagoon
town, is perhaps one of his most discussed and controversial creations; and, because of it, he was accused of anti-
Semitism by many people. Moreover, it is no coincidence that Venice is used as the background for the story. Venice
is the town of merchants, the symbol
of a concrete world based on power
and trading. Today's Venice is more
than ever a city devoted to art, in all
its forms. Venice makes you a
believer in fairy tales. Cars are
banned, so the only way to get
around this 1,500-year-old city is by
foot or by water. For this reason it is
also known as the "City of Lovers"
because the absence of cars allows
people to take long and serene walks,
reached only by the sound of water
washing the shores. It lacks the
amusements typical of most large
cities, there are no huge discos - but it
is rich in places where you can eat the
typical Venetian "cicchetti" (small
portions of food usually served with
Gandola - The sybmol of Venice aperitifs) and drink an excellent
"spritz", maybe listening to some
great musicians playing jazz.
10 July 2009
Old and Rusty - But Beautiful
From these vantage points, you'll be awed by the magical beauty. It is filled with palaces and art, fine shopping and
excellent food. Relax in Piazza San Marco, visit the basilicas, and wander the alleyways and bridges. Consider an
off-season trip to have more of the city to yourself.
Anywhere you want to reach, you need to walk so Two Gandolas near the shore
wear comfortable walking shoes.
Restaurants in Venice are famous for their culinary

skills, especially for their fish specialities. Beware
of the prices and the hidden charges.
The classical Venetian boat is the Gondola, although

it is now mostly used by the tourists, or for
weddings, funerals, or other ceremonies. The
gondola is the only boat in the world which, being
just 11-meters long and weighing more than 600kg,
can be steered with agility and easiness by just one
person and with only one oar. It has become, for
millions of tourists, the very symbol of Venice.
March 2010 11
Murano traditional Vase
Music on the gondola ride is magic. Most Venetians
now travel by motorised waterbuses -Vaporetti, which
ply regular routes along the major canals and between
the city's islands. Many gondolas are lushly appointed
with crushed velvet seats and Persian rugs. Gondoliers
typically charge between 80-100 Euros for a 35-minute
"giro" or excursion around some canals. The city also
has many private boats. Visitors can also take the private
water taxis between areas of the city, and to visit
different islands. They charge you a fortune, but give
privacy and luxury. If you visit Venice, then it's a must to The Glass Museum of Murano Island, The Museo Vetrario
visit The Murano Island. Murano is the most famous of
the Venetian Islands, and the most visited, courtesy of
the famous glass masters that produce the popular "Murano Glass". The people of Venice have been making crystal
and glass since the 10th Century. Fans of glass should also plan a visit to the Glass Museum of Murano, The Museo
Vetrario, where you can see exquisite pieces and understand more about the process and history of glassmaking in
Venice. You should also consider the nearby Church of Saints Mary and Donato (Santi Maria e Donato church),
which boasts a magnificent mosaic pavement laid down in the 12th Century.What made Murano's glassmakers so
special? They were the only people in Europe who knew how to make glass mirrors. They also developed or refined
technologies such as crystalline glass, enamelled glass (smalto), glass with threads of gold (aventurine),
multicoloured glass (millefiori), milk glass (lattimo), and imitation gemstones made of glass. Original Murano
glass, hand-blown by
authentic glass masters,
is generally very
expensive. Murano is
still an exporter of
traditional products like
mirrors and glassware,
and its factories produce
modern items such as
faucet handles, glass
lampshades, and electric
Italian Glass Work chandeliers.
One of the main reasons behind the charms of Venice is

the fact that it seems to be floating upon the waters of the
lagoon. However, the
Murano’s traditional vase dark truth is that the city
is actually sinking and
has been for centuries.
Venice has always lived
on borrowed time; it is a
city that should not exist
- a whimsical maze of
heavy marble palazzo
and churches built upon
ancient wooden piling
sunk into a salt marsh. It
is a wonder that Venice
survived to the present day to face a threat that may
finally end the life of this faded beauty: rising sea levels
due to global climate change and warming. Murano Glass Chandlers & Mirrors
12 July 2009
A unique Land of Saints and Jabbi Sayyedan and Sandgala as seen from Sar
Educated people
Chota Mecca
Text and photos by: Muzffar H. Bukhari
The author is a development professional, an eco-tourist, and
an amateur photographer, with particular interest in wildlife
and nature photography. He can be reached at
passionatephotog@hotmail.com
A couple of years ago, a question was asked on the Tariq Aziz

Show (formerly called Nilaam Ghar) – a famous and the
longest quiz program of Pakistan Television:“Do you know
where in Pakistan the literacy rate is as high as 100 percent?”
I am not aware whether or not somebody could answer the
question; what I do know however, is that I am proud to have
my roots coming from that place – called Jabbi Sayyedan,
also known as Chota Mecca.
Jabbi Sayyedan and Sandgala as seen from Kerni Gali
March 2010 13
Snow-capped peaks of Pir Panjal Range in Indian Held-Kashmir
Situated in a remote part of Azad Kashmir, Allah/Saint, Hazrat Syed Umar Shah Bukhari, and home to many other
within the proximity of famous Pir Panjal renowned saints like Syed Molvi Ala ud Din Bukhari, Syed Saifullah
range in the Himalayan mountains, Jabbi Shah Bukhari, Pir Syed Sikandar Shah Bukhari, Syed Akram Shah
Sayyedan is a small beautiful town of Bukhari, Pir Ghani Shah, and Syed Mir Hasan Matto, to name a few.
District Haveli (6,200ft above sea level) Jabbi Sayyedan is locally called Chota Mecca for its religious
with an estimated population of about 2,000. sanctity/spiritual base, and is widely known throughout Azad Kashmir
The name “Jabbi Sayyedan” is given due to for its very high literacy rate.
the fact that the population of the village
consists solely of 'Sadaat-e-Naqvi' – Apricot blossom in Spring
descendants of Hazrat Syed ImamHHD Naqi
(who was tenth out of the total twelve Imams
of Ahl-e-Bait).
Having a good cover of poplar trees together

with fruit trees of apple, apricot, peach, Apricot tree - full of fruits
walnut, and pear, the village offers stunning
views from the neighboring places –
particularly when seen from the heights of
Sundgala, a small settlement at hilltop.
Jabbi Sayyedan is a unique place and

probably the only village in whole of the
Azad Kashmir which was settled by a Wali
14 March 2010
Hazrat Umar Shah sahib was an Wild flowers on Aliabad-Hajipir Road
established Islamic scholar, who had
command over Arabic, Persian and
Urdu languages. He has the honour
of having written the first ever
commentary (Tafseer) of the Quran
in Persian in the history of Islam. It
is stated that about 200 years ago, the
then Raja of Poonch State gifted the
land of Jabbi Sayyedan on lease to
Hazrat Sahib in recognition of his
spiritual status and the miracles
associated to him.
The people of Jabbi Sayyedan are How to reach there:

very intelligent and educated. Their
religious background is probably the Jabbi Sayyeden is accessible from Islamabad via road through four different
most important factor for an routes. One is Islamabad/Rawalakot/Khaigala/Hajira/Abbaspur/Mehmood
unprecedented literacy rate (100%) Gali/Forward Kahuta. The second route is: Islamabad/Kahuta/Azad
prevailing in the village. Saadat-e- Pattan/Palandri/Trarkhal/Hajira Abbasspur/Mehood Gali/Forward Kahuta.
Jabbi are into diversified professions The third route is: Islamabad/Murree/Kohala/Dhirkot/Bagh/Dulli/
and are scattered throughout the Lassdanna/Mehmoood Gali/Forward Kahuta. And the fourth route follows
country. Many of them are teachers, the third one except that from Lasdanna Top one should take a road turning
Islamic scholars, and writers. Other left leading to Forward Kahuta via Shero Dhara/Haji Pir/Aliabad and Halan
professions include: public service Shumali. This is the most beautiful route as the snake-like winding road
employment, medical, law and passes through high mountains and thick forests. One can enjoy the
justice, armed services, banking, magnificent view of Pir Panjal Range while travelling on this route. Buses,
journalism, nuclear science, coasters and Toyota vans ply between Islamabad and Forward Kahuta on a
development, showbiz, fine arts, and daily basis following the first route. No vehicles ply on other three roads
information technology. A small directly from Rawalpindi/Islamabad. From Forward Kahuta one can hire jeep
number of people are into agriculture to go to Jabbi via Soli.
as well.
Panaroma of Lassdanna - Haji Pir Road near Sherodhara
Haji Pir Pass and Keran Top as seen from Haji Pir - Aliabad Road
March 2010 15
Places of Tourist Interest
Sandgala: A small village on a hilltop (about 7,300ft above sea level) that offers fantastic scenery to the eyes of
visitors. Its lush green meadows, and view of Pir Panjal range to the north-east, make this place a tourists'
paradise. Sandgala is also
Sungala Ziarat - Place of meditation of famous as a place of
Hazrat Jahanian Jahan Gasht meditation of Hazrat Syed
Jalalud Din Bukhari (Rehmat-
ullah Allaih), also called
“Jahania Jahan Gasht” for his
extensive travelling all over
the world. An Urs is
celebrated in his memory
every year at his Ziarat (the
place having thick bunch of Keran and Bedori Tops from Sandgala
trees where Hazrat Jahania
Jahan Gash used to sit for meditation and prayers during his stay at Sandgala). Sandgala is at a 30-minute jeep
ride from Jabbi Sayydan. If we opt to hike, it may take up to one hour to reach Sandgala top from Jabbi Sayyedan.
Neelfarry: This is a dhoke (a summer living place of the locals) of Jabbi Sayyedan and situated at an elevation of
about 8,800ft. People who have livestock come to this place and stay here every year from May to September.
Neelfary's meadows are extremely beautiful and their views reminiscent of the beautiful Windows Vista
Wallpapers. Another attraction of Neefarry is Ghuch, a delicious wild fruit that grows on small bushes in areas
situated at an elevation of more than or equal to 8,000ft.
Shero Dhara and Bissali Tops as seen from Neelfarry
16 March 2010
Pir Panjal Peaks as seen from Sar Lake
Sar: Another one hour hike from Neelfarry (at an
elevation of 9,200ft) will take you to a beautiful
pond known as Sar. Sar means lake in the local
language. The lake is 3-6ft deep and has an area
of about 1km². The source of the water comes
from melted snow from adjacent mountains, and
also rain water. Sar is extremely beautiful place.
Its lush green meadows are like no other. From
here one can view Keran Top (10,848ft) towards
the north-east, Kahuta town towards the west,
and a long range of snow-clad peaks of Pir Panjal
mountains in the south-east. The summer capital
of Indian-held Kashmir (Srinagar) is located on
south-eastern side of Sar.
Keran Top is at a hiking distance of about two

hours from Sar. It has an elevation of about
10,848ft. It is the second highest peak in the
neighboring areas. The highest peak is Bedori
Top (12,229ft). The view from Keran Top is very
open. Many important places of Indian-held
Kashmir like Uri sector, Qazi Nag Range,
Local guys playing Cricket at Sar in the
Shamsa Bari Range, part of Poonch city, and Pir foothills of Pir Panjal Mountains
Panjal Range can be seen from here. The areas in
Pakistani-controlled Kashmir that can be seen
from Keran Top are: Khurshidabad, Neza Pir,
Qabroun Wali Dheri Top, Kerni Gali, Hajipir
Pass, Sandgala, Jabbi Sayydean Soli, Forward
Kahuta, Basahan Sharif, Hallan Shumali,
Khardi, Shero Dhara Top, Bassali Top, and
Mehmood Gali.
Sar Lake with Keran Top in Background
March 2010 17
Bedori Top in May
Bedori Top
With the elevation of 12,229ft, Bedori is the highest peak in the adjacent areas of Pakistani-administered Kashmir.
Bedroi is at a hike of about four to five hours from Keran Top. Most of the track is straight, following the skyline of
the Keran Ridge. However, the last part of the track is really difficult as it is a steep climb of about two-three hours
that starts from the second Bedori peak. Due to the low quantity of oxygen in the air at this place, the hike is very
difficult and people with asthma or heart problems can have severe trouble while attempting to reach the last
summit.
Last Summit of Bedori Top Trek
Camping at Kuthnard during Trek to Bedori
18 March 2010
A panorama of Keran, Bedori, and Pir Panjal Range
Being the highest peak in an area of about 20 km²,

Bedori Top offers a very wide horizon of view. The
Pir Panjal Range in Indian-held Kashmir is very near
from this place, and looks like a snow wall touching
the sky. If you are lucky enough to find a cloudless
and haze-free sky, you can see many places from
here including Mangla/Jhelum and many others that
are also visible from Keran Top.
A trekker, at 2nd Bedori Top
Bisali and Shero Dhara as seen from 2nd Bedori
March 2010 19
View of Nullah Betard, Soli and Jabbi from Top ridge of Sorda
Sorda:
Sorda means narrow in the local language. It is a place on

Kahuta/Khurshidabad Road where the gap between two
mountains is just a few meters. The Nullah Betard passes
from this narrow gap and ultimately joins the River Poonch
15km downstream in the Indian-held Kashmir.
The locals tell an interesting tale about Sorda. They say that
in old times, a giant used to live in nearby Sorda. Once he
became angry on the local community for some reason and
started blocking the Nullah's flow by throwing huge stones
and clay in it at a point where the two mountain ridges were
very close. His intention was to stop the Nullah's flow so
that the water level may rise and people living upstream of
Betard would drown into it. A Sufi saint also lived there.
When he came to know about it, he came on the spot and hit
hard with his stick the ridge that was blocked with and clay
that stones. The stick cut through the ridge and a narrow
passage was made that allowed water to pass through it.
Apparently the story is unbelievable, but after seeing the
place, one might not find it difficult to believe it, looking at
A small cut in the ridges that allows water to flow the structure of the place and the narrow gap between two
mountain ridges that allows water to pass through.
20 March 2010
View of Nullah Betaard and Digwar Town - the bordering village at the Line of Control in Poonch Sector
Zooming in on Poonch City in Indian-Held Kashmir

Chirdikot:
A small town on Kahuta/Abbasspur Road at an

elevation of about 5,500ft. A blacktopped road
branches off from Palangi on Forward
Kahuta/Abbasspur Road, and turning left here
provides an alternate access route to Abbasspur
via Chirikot. This route is used in winter by the
commercial transporters for commuting Forward
Kahuta/Abbasspur when heavy snowfall in
Mehmood Gali blocks the regular route.
This road remains open throughout the season as

Tongeri, alongwith Nullah Betard. The snow-clad peaks of it passes through low-lying areas where very
Pir Panal range and Kahuta town are also visible little or no snowfall occurs in winter. One unique
feature of Chirikot is that it offers the best and the
closest view of Poonch citiy in Indian-held
Kashmir. Apart from the city, the runway strip of
Poonch Airport, village Digwar, some parts of Pir
Panjal Range in Indian-held Kashmir, and Bedori
Top, Keran Top, and Sandgala in Azad Kashmir
are also visible from various points on this road.
March 2010 21
Cham: Rainbow at Cham
Cham means waterfall in the local language. The Cham is

located at an elevation of 6,130ft and about 15km from Jabbi
Sayyedan via Soli Kalamula/Hillan Road. The road from
Soli to Kalamula is blacktopped, whereas the rest of the road
is a jeep track. The water at Cham falls into a narrow place
half covered by a big boulder. Since the water falls from a
very high point, it produces a big noise and sprinkles
hundreds of thousands of water drops in the air which touch
one's face gently when one stops nearby. In the afternoons of
sunny days, these water droplets act like a prism and make a
beautiful rainbow. The rainbow's location and angle changes
if one changes the point of view. It is undoubtedly a dazzling
scene, which takes one to a totally different world of absolute
purity, free of all kind of hurries and worries.
Hillan:
A few kilometers from Cham, is the beautiful valley of Hillan

in the foothills of the Pir Panjal peaks. Hillan is a Y-shaped
valley at 6,697ft,
A Young Photog in Hillan covered with Chir
and Deodar
forests. It has a
great similarity
with Neelum
Valley. The line of
control (LOC) is
just a few
kilometers away
from here, and the
famous summer
station of
Gulmerg (Indian-held Kashmir) is situated at a distance of
just 40km from Hillan. Due to its close proximity with the
LOC, the area is heavily guarded by Pak Army. Non- It is undoubtedly a dazzling scene,
residents are rarely allowed to enter this valley. Photography
is strictly prohibited. However, if you have some army
which takes one to a totally different
connections, then no area is out of bound for you. world of absolute purity
A 270 degree panorama of Hillan Valley
22 March 2010
Thick Forest of Aliabad
Aliabad
Having a thick cover of Chir, Conifer and Deodar season witnesses heavy snow-fall in this area and the road remains
forests, Aliabad (6,610 ft) is a small army station blocked due to snow for most of the time during December to March.
located at a distance of about 20 km from Forward
Kahuta on Kahuta - Haji Pir Road. The area is Aliabad is in foothills of Haji Pir Pass and a sensitive area with
lush green and due to thick forest cover, the security point of view. Photography is not allowed near the army
temperature is very pleasant in summer. Winter installations.
Over looking Aliabad from Reza Camp.
23

Hajipir Pass and Keran Top Zooming in on Haji Pir Pass
Situated at an elevation of 8,631 ft, and at a distance of about 15 km from Aliabad, Haji Pir is a historical pass that
provides connectivity to Uri in Indian-held Kashmir. It is another army base and therefore a very sensitive area in
terms of security. A barrier is placed by the Pakistan Army at the entrance of the Pass, where every visitor (and
particularly the non-resident) undergoes a detailed
View of Indian-Held Kashmir from Haji Pir Pass search. Photography is strictly prohibited and one cannot
take camera beyond this point.
Haji Pir pass was captured by the Indian Army in August

1965 in response to an ill and haphazardly planned
Operation Gibraltar by Pakistan Army. However, the
area was returned to Pakistan by India following the
signing of the Tashkent Agreement on 10 January 1966.
A 25 km blacktopped road from here leads to Bhedi. Uri

in Indian-held Kashmir is another 7 km away from
Bhedi. A jeepable track from Bhedi leads to Uri but this
route is currently abandoned.
Haji Pir pass provides a wonderful and wide open view of

Keran Top in Azad Kashmir, and the whole Qazi Nag
Range in Indian-held Kashmir. Haji Pir is called so
because right on the Pass there is the shrine of Hazrat Haji Pir, a Sufi saint from the Bukhari family. Every visitor to
this area stops at this shrine to offer Fateha (pray for the eternal peace of the buried). Every year an Urs (annual
celebration) is also held in his memory, attended by a large number of people from near and far.
Looking at Qazi Nag Range in Indian-Held Kashmir - from West of Haji Pir Pass
24
Lassdanna:
At a distance of about 20km from Haji

Pir Pass, Lasdanna is a beautiful
station on top of a hill at an elevation
of 8,473ft. The place offers
captivating scenes and a wide-open
view of the surrounding area and its
natural beauty. From Lasdanna, three
roads branch off the main road: i.e.
Lasdanna Mahmood Gali/Forward
Kahuta; Lasdanna/Haji
Pir/Aliabad/Forward Kahuta; and
L a s d a n n a / To l i p i r R a w a l a k o t .
Lasdanna to Tolipir is a jeepable track.
Lasdanna - in April
A few kilometers short of Lasdanna is
the Shero Dhara - a peak with an
elevation of about 10,ft. You can reach
Shero Dhara Top through a one and a
half hour hike from the main
Lasdanna-Haji Pir Road. The top is
the second highest peak in the
neighboring area - the highest peak is
Bissali which is another one and a half
hour's hike away from here. One can
have a 360-degree wide view of the
area from this top. Bedori Top, Keran
Top, Sar, and a long range of Pir
Panjal mountains are visible from this
place.
A rest house is available at Lasdanna

for stay. The room charges are very
nominal - Rs.600 per night.
Reservation is made through the
Tourism Officer, AK Tourism
Department, District Bagh. View of Bedori, Keran and Pir Panjal Range from Shero Dhara Top
Lasdanna Top and Dhulli Nullah as seen from Shero Dhara and Bissali Tops from Lasdanna Rest House
trek to Shero Dhara
25
Yellow-Billed Blue Magpie Wildlife:
Jabbi Sayyedan used to be very rich in terms of wildlife

three/four decades ago. However, continued habitat
destruction, and a tremendous decline in forest cover in
the area, on account of increased population and
urbanization, caused severe damage to flora and fauna,
leading to drastic reduction in the wildlife species.
Major mammalian fauna found in District Haveli are:
Common Leopard, Black Bear, Musk Dear, Fox,
Rhesus Macaque, Asiatic Jackal, and Wolf. Apart from
this, there are many sightings of lions reported by the
local community of the area. Many people living near
forest-covered areas, complain that lions do come every
year from the Pir Panjal mountains and eat their
livestock in the fields. Many residents of Jabbi Sayyedan claim that every year in winters lions visit the burial places
of a number of saints buried in the graveyard of the village. They believe that this wild beast does it as a gesture of
showing respect for those saints. However, there is no scientific evidence of the Lion's presence in the region. The last
remnant of the Asiatic Lion, which in historical times ranged from Greece to India through Persia, lives in the Gir
Forest National Park in the Indian State of Gujrat, where about 359 lions are reported to live in a 1,412 km² sanctuary.
People of Jabbi Sayyedan, in fact, often confuse common leopards with lions.
Avian fauna of Jabbi Sayyedan and the surrounding areas include: Kashmir Rollar, Streaked-Laughing Thrush, Blue
Rock Thrush, Nielgari, Yellow-Billed Chough, Pied Bushchat, Oriental White Eye, Yellow-billed Blue Magpie,
Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Red-vented Bulbul, White-cheeked Bulbul, Common Stonechat, Himalayan Griffon
Vulture, Shikra, Golden Eagle, and Himalayan Monal. In good old days, Golden Pheasant was also found in the
forests of Hillan Valley.
Staying:
Unfortunately, no adequate staying arrangements are available in or near Jabbi Sayyedan as yet. The nearest available
tourism rest house is at Lasdanna – about 40 km from Jabbi Sayyedan. Though there is a forest rest house at Forward
Kahuta (12kmshort of Jabbi Sayyedan), it is not available for general public use, since it is under the Army's use since
long. There are a few small hotels in Forward Kahuta, but their environment and food is highly unhygienic. If you are
interested to visit this area, camping would be the best option.
Rehesus Macaque or Rehesus Monkey

A Juvenile of Pied Bushchat
26
The Lost Tribe
Kalash
K
K alash is located approximate 36 km, two hours
drive away on the south side of Chitral City, in the
foot of Hindukush mountains near Afghan
Border. The road is very rough and scenic.
Chitral consists of three valleys namely
Text and Photography: Bumburet, Rumbur, and Birir. The total
population of this tribe, in all three valleys, is
Shafqat Mirza approximate 4,000. They have a unique culture,
which is different from the other tribes living in
the surrounding area. They speak Kalash
language but majority of them can speak and
understand Urdu and Pashtoo as well.
According to Kalashis, some of the soldiers of

Alexander the Great (B.C 327) who got fed up
with fighting and bloodshed, deserted and hid
themselves in these mountains. The present Kalashis are said to be the
descendants of those Greek soldiers. Researchers from Greece regularly visit
this place. They have setup many schools and health units in this area. Greece
has also provided aid and built a museum in Bumburet.
The high mountains of Hindukush have helped preserve their culture and
traditions for centuries. In the late 70s, a road was built connecting Kalash
valley to Chitral city, which was a blessing for the locals as well as the tourists.
After the road's construction, the tourists began to visit Kalash quite frequently
and this beautiful valley, its local community, and the mysteries associated to
the people and culture of Kalash became known to the outer world.
March 2010 27
Bashalni - Where Kalashi women
Kalashi women wear long black embroidered go to give birth to children
gowns, and on their heads they wear an
ornamental cap, and a hair band decorated with
shells and beads. They wear a number of
necklaces made of yellow, red and white
beads. Usually they visit Chitral with the same
dress but they wear shalwar qamiz while
traveling to other parts of the country and also
use it as a night suit. Normally one woman
owns three to four dresses at a time but they
wear a new dress on their festivals. Kalashi
men wear shalwar qamiz and Chitrali cap with
feathers on front side.
The women go to “bashalani” for child birth

and stay there for ten days. They also go there
during their menstruation period and stay there
for four days. During this period, and
childbirth, women are not allowed to go home.
Her family sends food to her during this time.
Usually girls get married between the age 15 to

20. They are allowed to choose their life
partners by their own free will. If a girl wants
to get married with someone she will go to his
home and start living with him for a couple of
weeks; after that she will come back to her
father's home. The boy then shall ask for her
hand in marriage and will gives the bride's
father, goats, cows and money.
Jewelry worn by local Women
A married woman is allowed to change her
husband and marry another man. In this case,
the new husband has to pay the former
husband, double the number of goats, sheep,
cows, and money etc that the former husband
had given to the father of the woman at the time
of his marriage. This custom is called Dongrak
in local language.
There are three main festivals in a year. First

one is called Chillam Joshi (spring) which is
held at the start of the spring season, from 12 to
15 May. The second one is called Uchau
(autumn) which is held from 20 to 23 August
and the final one is called Chaumus (winter) in
mid of December of every year. The reason for
calling it as Chaumus lots of goats are altered
on this occasion. In the word Chaumus. “mus”
means meat. The people also enjoy music, and
dance during these festival.
28 March 2010
Kalashi girl in typical dress

In their early age, Kalashis are very beautiful with
blond hairs and light eyes. However, due to severe
climatic conditions of the area and a tough lifestyle,
their beauty starts diminishing from the age of 20.
The area is very fertile and plenty of water is

available. The people grow wheat, maize, walnuts,
apricots, apples, peaches and grapes. There are
number of trees of mulberries, which are dried and
used in the winter season as fuel wood. They make
wine with grapes at their homes and most of
Kalashi men and women drink it.
Remains of human body in a Kalashi Graveyard in
Music and dance is so much into their souls that Kalashi

dance and sing even on deaths. Fifty years back they used to
leave the dead bodies in wooden coffins in graveyard.
However, now they have started burying the dead bodies
because people lately started steeling the skeletons and
ornaments of the dead bodies from the coffins and selling
the same to foreigners for the want of money. Nevertheless,
still some open wooden coffins along with bones can be
seen in graveyards.
Delicious Chitrali Apples
A Landscape in Kalash
29
A beautiful stream in Kalash
Over the time more than three thousand people have
converted to Islam; these Muslims are called “Sheikhs.” After
becoming Muslim the women stop using their traditional
dress and men remove feathers from their caps. If any Kalash
converts to Islam, he is not allowed to stay in the same village
of Kalashis but they start living nearby. The main doors of all
Muslims are closed whereas doors of Kalashis remain open
and they welcome visitors. They offer them local grapes wine
and dry fruit. Due to frequent interaction with the
international as well as domestic tourists, and improved
accessibility of the area, the cultural dynamics are vulnerable
to change in near future. According to a careful estimate, in
next 20 years Kalashi culture and traditions will die out
because of education and their interaction with other parts of
the world. Most of young and educated Kalashis don't like
their customs.
The literacy rate in the valley is very high and there is hardly
any child who is not school going. There are number of
schools and one intermediate college in the area. Many
children are studying in big cities like Peshawar, Islamabad
and Lahore.
How to get there
By Air: Pakistan International Airlines (PIA) operates one

flight on daily basis form Islamabad to Chitral. The flying
time is 45 minutes and return fare for one person is approx Rs.
9,600. Jeep charges from Airport to Bumburet are between
Rs.1,200 to 3,000. However, public transport from Chitral to Upon reaching airport one must go directly to PIA
Bumburet is also available. You can reach Bumburet from office in Chitral city to re-confirm his seat for return
Chitral on public transport at a nominal fair of Rs. 70/- per flight.
person.
By Road:
One can opt to go by road as well. From Islamabad, the

route will be; Islamabad - Mardan - Malakand -
Chakdara - Timargara - Dir - Lawari - Chitral - Darosh -
Ayun - Bumburet.
Where to Stay
There are approximately 24 small and medium size

hotels located in Bumburet, which are very
economical. You can easily get one double bed room
with attached bath between Rs. 300 to 800. If you are
with family then the best place to stay is PTDC Motel
which charges Rs. 1900 to 2400 per night. No matter
where you stay, it is recommended that you dine at
PTDC Motel, as the food there is hygienic compared to
A Kalashi School other hotels. Guides are also available at a nominal
rate of Rs. 100 per day.
30 March 2010
Lawari Top in July
For those, traveling to Chitral by From To Road condition Duration

Road, a table is presented to show
different towns en-route to
Kalash Valleys and the travel Islamabad Mardan Motorway 2 hour
time required for moving from Mardan Shergarh Block-top Road 2 hour
one place to another. The travel Sakha Kot
times are applicable for self-
driving vehicles. Dargai
Malakand
Batkhela
The author is a development
professional, and a hobbyist Timergara
photographer who has been Timergara Dir Black-top Road 1.5 hour
traveling to north side of
Pakistan since last 14 years for Dir Lawari Top Well maintained jeep able 4 hours
hiking and photography. This Darosh track. Cars can be used too
article is based on the direct Darosh Ayun 80 % is mateled road, 20 % 1 hour
knowledge he gained from the
locals, and his own track is jeep able
observations. He has visited Ayun Bumburet Maintained Jeep able track but 1 hour
there multiple times, and has
developed very good relations cars can also travel
with the locals. It helped him a
lot in write this. He can be
reached at 31
shafqatmirza@hotmail.com
Ethics of
Macro
Photography
Macro Photography - tips and techniques
The author is a founder member of PPA. He started

photography as a hobby in 2004. He has evolved as a
professional photographer providing freelance
photography services to several organizations. Nature,
miniatures, ancient monuments , mosques, and people are
his favourite subjects.
Focus stacked two photo to keep both bugs in sharp focus. Lens used: 100 macro lens
W hat is Macro Photography?
Essentially it means taking

photographs of really small things.
Ladybug shot using
Canon 100mm
macro lens with
external flash
Macro photos are shot at 1:1 or at
higher magnifications like 2x, 3x, 4x,
5x etc. 1:1 means life size picture of the
subject i.e at 1:1 magnification your
subject will cover whole imaging area
(film or sensor) of digital camera. This
is usually applicable on DSLR cameras
and magnification ratio is determined
by the lens you use. In Point and Shoot
cameras there is so called macro mode
that helps user to focus at close
distance but it has far less
magnification than 1:1
March 2010 32
Going Macro
Macro Lenses: DSLR users can buy macro lenses. There

are a number of options available which will give you
true 1:1 pictures. Canon's MP-E65 mm creates images at
5:1 ratio – that means a single grain of rice will cover
whole film area!
Extension tubes: Extension tubes are hollow tubes

added between the lens and the DSLR to help achieve
higher magnification ratio.
Reverse Lens: Reversing the lens in front of the DSLR

with the help of an adapter will allow you to take close-
Choosing the best lens for Macros
ups without spending a lot in macro gear, but it has its
limitations. With this technique point-and-shoot users
If you don't have any experience in macro photography and
can also achieve higher magnification.
hardships it brings, I recommend you start with the reverse
lens option. If you are a point-and-shoot user get an adapter for
Close-up Filters: These are screwed onto the front of
your camera model and put any of the compatible lenses made
the zoom lens to give some boost in magnification ratio.
for DSLR/SLR (ideally in 50mm range with large aperture) in
front of your camera lens and try to take photos with
Tips and Tricks
techniques mentioned above. This option is great for budget
DSLR shooters too.
Here are few critical things to master for the best macro
results.
Focus
Focusing is the toughest job in macro – the higher the

magnification the greater chance of being out of focus.
Auto focusing is usually not possible due to higher
magnification. To overcome this issue I usually set my
lens to manual focusing and set the focus to the desired
magnification on the lens, then move back and forth to
achieve focus and hold where the desired spot is in
perfect focus.
Tip: Use a mono pod – this is going to increase your

keeper ratio dramatically by keeping the camera steady
at the focus point and reducing motion blur.
Lightning: As depth of field (DOF) is extremely

shallow at large aperture, one has to use aperture as high
as F8 – this significantly increases the demand of light.
External flash is going to be extremely helpful here, as it
is going to illuminate the subject very well. It will also
eliminate chances of motion blur caused by camera
shake.
Tip: Use off shoe cord and diffuser for your flash for
more natural and pleasing results.
33
Macro Shot of An Ant taken with 50mm Reverse lens on a point and shoot camera
For DSLR users looking to buy a macro lens, if you People who want to rock the world at 5X magnification
shoot a lot of insects, etc, get 100mm or another above- should get Canon's MP-E65. This specialized lens costs
range macro lens. If you are limited to flowers, etc, a 50- around 800$ and lack focusing at infinity this makes it
60mm range will be just fine. The image-stabilized useless for other purposes.
macro lens by Canon or VR macro lens by Nikon are
also in the market but they are tested useless for high Final words
magnification shots.
Sigma and Tokina are Macro photography is
great third-party an extremely vast topic
options. They all with tons of things to
provide 1:1 or 1X talk about including
magnification and you mathematics and
can add extension tubes endless accessories. The
if you want to increase above article is based on
magnification. These my own observations,
lenses are great for experience and the
portraits too. Prices techniques. For any
range from 400$ to 1000$ depending on the focal length further questions contact me at +923455400315, or visit
and image-stabilization options. my website www.awaisyaqub.com.
March 2010 34
W
hile talking about wildlife photography
in Pakistan, the first name that comes
Interviewing to the people’s mind is none other than
Ghulam Rasool Mughal - an
accomplished, and widely known
GR Mughal nature / wildlife photographer in

Pakistani photographers community.
He is not only an outstanding
photographer, but also a very good bird
The man who showed Window to watcher, and his bird identification
capabilities are unquestionable.
The Wildlife of Pakistan
In Ist week of March 2010, Mr GR
Mughal held a solo exhibition of his
w o r k o n n a t u re a n d w i l d l i f e
photography in a gallery in Karachi.
This display was rightly titled as “The
Window to Wildlife of Pakistan”. The
exhibition got an overwhelming
response from the general public as
well as the photographic community of
Karachi.
At this occasion we managed to have

an interview session with him. The
interview aimed at letting the readers
of the 3rd Eye know more about him. So
here we go.
Interviewer: Muzaffar H. Bukhari
3rd Eye: Tell us something about where did you GR: I don't have any formal education in
grow up, and how long have you been doing the photography and I learnt everything from books,
photography etc. magazines, internet and from my friends in the field.
3rd Eye: You were a student of Accounting? What

GR: I was born in Gujranwala on 24th July 1976 and
motivated you to adopt photography as a
was a student of accounting in my college times.. profession?
Since my childhood, I have been fond of colors
around me. I can recall my observations of going GR: I am a nature-lover by nature. Imagine a
after the birds and listening their songs, watching's student, sitting in his room solving mathematical
the flying kites and bubbles of the early mon-soon puzzles of accountancy and suddenly some bird
rain. Countless such experiences are in my memory. comes on the wall and utters few notes and the
I learnt Calligraphy and tried a painting by my student leaves everything behind and goes out to
ownself but the school studies never let me get time watch the bird. He forgets everything when he seas a
for this. I got my first camera A “Yashica electro 35” beautiful sunset. Well I used to work hard but I
could not kill my feelings for nature and close my
in 1989 when I was in class 8 and took the first few
ears and eyes from the phenomena of nature. I had
pictures of my life. It was a sunrise reflection in a no other choice but to do something to witness the
pond near my house in Gujranwala. beauty of nature and share it with others. I was
feeling suffocated as if somebody is killing me
3rd Eye: Did you have a formal education in slowly hence I decided do photography essentially
photography? If yes, from where and when? for my own soul.
March 2010 35
GR and his “shooting gun” - 600 mm F:4 L USM
3rd Eye: What genre of photography did you adopt in the

beginning of your carrier?
GR: In the beginning, I was fond of photography…every

type of photography but I used to love the nature and
landscapes. Professionally I survived in photography by
doing general photography which to shoot as per client's
demand. It ranges from wedding shoots to commercials
and assignments of all sorts.
3rd Eye: Why did you choose to become a wildlife

photographer?
3rd Eye: What genre of photography did you adopt GR: Because I used to spend time chasing the birds in the
in the beginning of your carrier? gardens and listening their songs…I could never feel so
much peace and satisfaction as I felt when going for
GR: In the beginning, I was fond of birding. Actually I am a nature photographer who loves
photography…every type of photography but I used every type of life but does wildlife photography especially.
to love the nature and landscapes. Professionally I
survived in photography by doing general 3rd Eye: What is the
photography which to shoot as per client's demand. source of your
It ranges from wedding shoots to commercials and Beautiful beach of Balochistan
learning about wildlife
assignments of all sorts. photography?
3rd Eye: Why did you choose to become a wildlife GR: My brotherly
photographer? friend Dr. Ahmad
Shahzad, who gifted
GR: Because I used to spend time chasing the birds me many books of the
in the gardens and listening their songs…I could birds of Pakistan and
never feel so much peace and satisfaction as I felt taught me about the
when going for birding. Actually I am a nature wildlife of Pakistan,
photographer who loves every type of life but does its uniqueness in
wildlife photography especially. geography, flora and
fauna. He played the
3rd Eye: What is the source of your learning about key role to motivate
wildlife photography? me.
GR: My brotherly friend Dr. Ahmad Shahzad, who 3rd Eye: Who are your
gifted me many books of the birds of Pakistan and competitors in
taught me about the wildlife of Pakistan, its Pakistan? How do you
uniqueness in geography, flora and fauna. He played rate them?
the key role to motivate me.
GR: I don't know who are the competitors so I cannot rate
3rd Eye: Who are your competitors in Pakistan? them at all.
How do you rate them?
3rd Eye: If you could shoot with another photographer
GR: I don't know who are the competitors so I who would it be and why?
cannot rate them at all.
GR: It would be Jay Maisel because of his un-paralleled
3rd Eye: If you could shoot with another style of capturing the last rays of available light, and Frans
photographer who would it be and why? Lanting for his un-compromised nature photography.
36 March 2010
3rd Eye: You seem to be focused only on avian fauna,
as we don't see other forms of fauna in your pictures.
Why so?
GR: Its just because of chance that you could not see
my whole photography.
3rd Eye: If you are restricted to do either avian

photography or landscapes? What would be your
choice, and why?
GR: I would go avian photography at first and

landscape at second
3rd Eye: What do you feel is the most challenging thing about wildlife photographing?
GR: To capture the essence on the bird. A shot which actually describes the bird's individual qualities in the wild.
For example; a seed eater or a fish hunter
3rd Eye: Have you ever had a "close encounter" with a dangerous animal in an attempt to get the perfect photo?
GR: Yes; it happened when I was photographing the blue faced barbet in Margalla Hills, a female wild boar with
kids came in my way charged towards me then suddenly I picked up a big stones and crashed it over the stony
pathway and the loud sound of the hit distracted that female and I was saved on that day.
3rd Eye: What do you think of the wildlife photography at present and where do you see it in next five years?
GR: Wildlife photography is the most desirable form of photography right now to create awareness and educate
the people about its beauty and the charisma. I want to have a production house platform to do work for educating
the general public. I want to see myself established in wildlife photography to represent the true picture of
Pakistan's unique bio-diversity.
3rd Eye: How many wildlife shoots you do you in a year - on average?
GR: 40 to 50
3rd Eye: What is your favourite wildlife place, and why?
GR: Khunjarab and Deosai plains. The wildlife and the

species you see there are very much restricted in those areas.
Top of the world, above tree line, perfect wilderness
3rd Eye: Which is your most favourite picture from your own
portfolio, and why?
GR: A mating pair of white winged redstart that I captured in

Khunjerab National Park. The courtship of this bird is so
unique in style and it was snowing at that moment. Normally,
this species lives and is restricted above the tree line. That
rare scene made the image kind of “Picture of the tour”
indeed.
March 2010 37
3rd Eye: What are the basic essentials of wildlife
photography?
GR: Patience, peace from inside, observation and

lot of knowledge about the subject so that you may
improvise the behavior of the particular subject.
Extreme physical fitness and the art of using
camouflage and good equipment to work with in
extreme weather conditions are also extremely
important.
3rd Eye: Do you do any research prior to going out

on the field? How important it is.
GR: It is more important than doing photography 3rd Eye: If you had to choose one lens which one would it be
itself, I think and why?
3rd Eye: Is it important to study a lot about species' GR: Well that depends what I am going to shoot….for birds
behavior to get the perfect shot? photography, I would go for 800 mm or 600 mm but for
mammals and large animals I would prefer to use 400 mm
GR: Yes of course, it is very much important to lens. For landscapes I would go for 16-35mm and 70-200 mm.
study and know everything about the specific
species because you cannot get the best shot of that 3rd Eye: Other accessories required for wildlife shooting?
species if you do not know the habits and the ways
of your subject. GR: A fast and dependable camera body, a sufficient focal
length of the lens, a lot of battery power and storage capacity.
3rd Eye: Many people believe that "the gun matters A sturdy tripod and drab colored clothes with a head cover
more than the man behind the gun". What is your according to the location
view on this? Please elaborate for our readers.
3rd Eye: Do you plan on buying any new equipment and if so
GR: Though, the man behind the gun matters more what do you have your eyes on?
than the gun but then the “gun” should be a gun.
You cannot fire a canon ball with an air gun. GR: Well right now I don't intend to buy any other equipment
but I will buy a new camera body, Canon EOS 1D Mark IV
3rd Eye: What equipment you generally take along with Canon EF 800 mm Lens.
with you when you are in the field?
3rd Eye: Are you a freelance photographer, or you work for
GR: Well it depends whether I am going on a car of some organization?
walking in hills. Usually, I take only two cameras
with two lenses and a tripod only to do my job GR: Well I work for WWF-Pakistan. However, I do other
when I am trekking but I carry the whole stuff when assignments as well as a freelance photographer.
I am traveling in a car.
3rd Eye: From the carrier point of view, what are the future
3rd Eye: What brand of camera and lenses you prospects for a Wildlife Photographer in Pakistan?
personally like, and Why?
GR: Well, photography as a whole is not yet recognized in
GR: I like Canon because it is much easy and user our art institutions and the prospects are limited till the time
friendly and the pro-controls can be accessed even photography is duly regarded as a form of art. Wildlife
without moving your eye from the scene. Apart photography is much more challenging, demanding and at
from that, fast and accurate focus, power and speed times, dangerous as well due to the criminal and un educated
of frames offered by Canon produce images of people in our society.
unmatched quality.
38 March 2010
3rd Eye: Is there a place where you wanted to go,
but haven't had the chance yet? Any particular
subject you wanted to shoot, but haven't had the
chance?
GR: Korambar and Baroghal Lakes for

photographing life cycle of migratory birds and to
the Chitral mountains to photography the Asiatic
lynx and snow-leopard
3rd Eye: How important is Photoshop in your

final images?
GR: It is important for color corrections, spot

removals and preparing the images for
presentations and printing purposes. It plays a key
role in the whole process because starting from
downloading to presentation or printing, it is the
Photoshop that I use.
3rd Eye: What is your most used Photoshop tool,

plug-in, etc.?
GR: Camera raw image converter, Color Levels,

Healing brush and Nik 3.0 plug-in filter.
3rd Eye: Do you think you have mastered Crash-

Art workflow, can you briefly describe for our
readers your photographic workflow after a shoot
in wild?
GR: Well: my workflow has generally six steps. (i)

download the images in a folder using Adobe
Bridge, (ii) review the whole lot carefully in
adobe bridge and tag the selected photos for final
selection, (iii) group the final images in
different sets depending on nature of the images,
(iv) open each group in Adobe Camera Raw GR: PSA-Photographic Society of America, and Pakistani
Converter and check for white balance, dust spots and Photographers’Association.
other details, (v) convert the desired images into PSD
format, and (vi) finally save the copy of the selected 3rd Eye: What would you be, if not a wildlife photographer?
images in JPG format.
GR: A painter or wildlife researcher.
3rd Eye: Which wildlife Photographer inspires you!
And why? 3rd Eye: What are your political views?
GR: Frans Lanting for its creative control over the GR: Democracy, rule of law, and a uniform education system
diverse subjects of wildlife photography. for every individual of the society.
3rd Eye: What photographic organizations do you 3rd Eye: What is the biggest issue of Pakistan, and what is the
belong to? way forward to resolve that?
39
GR: Lack of quality formal and
technical education, and poor
governance. The resolution is; quality
education for all, and strict
accountability mechanism to be in
place.
3rd Eye: What is the particular thing

you are still learning?
GR: How to take better wildlife

pictures and how to store, manage and
retrieve the data so that you don't end in
piles of photographic data except
having good access over the images in a
systematic way
3rd Eye: What or who is the greatest

love of your life?
GR: I have to think on it but I cannot find 3rd Eye: Your favourite film(s) of m a t c h i n g t h e i n t e r n a t i o n a l
one because I love nature in all of its all time? standards, and photographing the
forms. Whether it is a beautiful eye or it is snow leopard in his hunting
an emerging leaf bud in the spring, I love GR: Dances with wolves, Legends grounds.
everything. of the fall, Alaska, Life is beautiful,
The shooter and The "Bourne" 3rd Eye: What would you like to be
3rd Ear: What is your greatest fear? series, are my all time favourites. doing in 5 years from now?
GR: My fear is this that Pakistan as a3rd Eye: First thing you would do GR: I will be working on film and
whole is going towards decline in quality
if you won the lottery? photography projects on self -
education and it is prone to corruption. finance basis and running a wildlife
The society has no respect for nature and
GR: I would buy another camera stock agency in Pakistan. A
wildlife so I might not be able to work and
set and a house for my living and permanent photography art gallery
produce as much I want and pray for. Ithen a vehicle to go in the wild with loads of wildlife books and
cannot go alone with my stuff to really
areas. Buy a big land, develop it soulful atmosphere
wild areas because I remain afraid of into a natural forest or farm house
dacoits (I was even looted once, near and live there in the company of 3rd Eye: If you could live anywhere
Gujranwala - just 5 km off the GT Road).
Nature. on this awesome planet where
But the biggest fear of all is the absence of would you build your dream home?
the people who really love and respect3rd Eye: Which five words would
this art and if Pakistani Government did
your friends use to describe you? GR: Probably I would not leave
not own it, I will be left with no choice but this place until and unless, I am
to do something else for my survival. You
GR: Dependable, trustworthy, forced to do so. In that case, I would
can say that wildlife photography is the
thoughtful, friendly and straight- live in Canada.
biggest risk that I took and still limping
forward
along with it. 3rd Eye: Ever risked your life for a
3rd Eye: What ambition have you photograph?
3rd Eye: If you could have lunch with not yet achieved?
anyone who is famous who would it be? GR: I was in Naltar Valley and
GR: A well composed coffee table to take a photo of Naltar Lakes
GR: Don't know…No answer book, a wildlife film about Pakistan Complex in one shot, I slipped
40 March 2010
down straight from a rock and got injured 3rd Eye: What is the minimum required
my left leg and finger tips of both hands. gear to start with wildlife shooting? The exhibition “Window to Wildlife of
With bleeding fingers and trembling legs, Please consider the budget factor as well. Pakistan” in photographer’s own
I completed the sequence. I would have words:
died in an instance, had i not left the GR: Any camera with at least 300 mm "This exhibition is A journey of
camera and held the sharp edge of the lens and a tripod. transforming my soulful experiences into
rock. reality. Whether it was the lonely starlit
night in the deserts of Cholistan or the
3rd Eye: Do you have your own website eagles flying over frozen rivers of
3rd Eye: Your unforgettable experience in Baltistan, the first light falling on the
or blog? Can you share the link for our
the field, and why it is so? snow covered Himalayas or the vast
readers? fields of millions of wild flowers in
Deosai, whether it was the song of the
GR: It was during Makran Coast nightingale in the early hours of twilight
GR: www.ghulamrasool.com
Assignment. I was traveling along the beach, in Hingol or the sound of the gushing
from west bay Gwadar to Jiwani. I saw few springs in Palas valley, countless such
3rd Eye: And the last but not the least, if close experiences with nature spoke to
Humpback Dolphins playing in the waves my heart saying; ' its all here'…telling me
you are assured that your one wish will that the answer of all my questions is
very close to the beach. I was improvising
be fulfilled, what it would be……? written here…I just had to, ponder and
their surfacing movements to capture one contemplate and reflect them for others
good shot. After 45 minutes of continuous to know the truth. I have a firm belief that
GR: This interview shouldn’t have been these signs of nature are in fact telling us
chase in the waves with my lens, I was almost
this much long…(laughter) everything related to very reason of our
exhausted but in the last moment, a young existence and the ultimate destiny
Humpback Dolphin came into my frame, awaiting us.”
3rd Eye: Thanks for your time GR.
made a big splash and jumped out and landed

into the sea. This jump made a 180 degrees
rotation and I was lucky enough to capture it
in 14 frames with high speed camera. I turned
off the camera after that and started shouting
loudly…It was the most memorable moment
of my life.
3rd Eye: What advice do you have for

somebody who wants to become a nature and
specifically wildlife photography?
GR: Observe the subject before you take

pictures, Don't think that you have taken the
best shot so keep on trying for the best shot
which satisfies you. Wear relatively grey
clothes without flourescent or sharp colored
markings. Talk less and listen more. Eat less
and see more.
41
Sheikh Badin
National Park
A forgotten paradise
Text and Photography: oing through Indus Highway from Dera Ismail Khan to
Peshawar, the Sheikh Badin Hill lies on the east of Pezu
Muhammad Danial Shah at an altitude of 1,400m above sea level, a 2-hour drive
from Dera Ismail Khan and an hour's rough drive from
Pezu. The only road from Pezu is very rough and steep and
A view from Hilltop requires a 4-wheel drive vehicle. You can also get a ride from
Pezu - very rough Toyota classic cars take almost 600Rs one-
way. For hikers, it takes 6 to 8 hours from the oasis town of
Paniala, full of splendid views, and this is recommended.
It is said that the mountain Sheikh Badin was named after

Hazrat Baha-ud-din Zakariya, a great Sufi saint of his times
from Multan, who went there for preaching Islam; while some
people say that the hill is named after Pir Sheikh Bahauddin,
whose tomb is right on the hill top and attracts devotees from
the vicinity throughout the year. Later on, the name changed
from Sheikh Bahauddin to Sheikh Badin.
Sheikh Badin Hill has quite interesting historical importance,.

It happened to be one of the cantonments of the British era. The
British came here somewhere around in 1861 and left in 1914.
Signboard of Sheikh Badin National Park
Google earth Map of the Park
42 March 2010
Dak banglow at the Park
The hill station has one rest house, known as Daak Bangla (in the local language), built more than 100 years back. It
comprises of a few rest rooms with mountainous-view windows and a veranda. The old furniture and some
accessories are still present but nothing has been done so far to restore them.
A jail was also made for the

prisoners by the British,
which has one main jailer's
room, six small and four
big jails.Still in its shape, it
is now a major attraction The water pond
for the tourists.
Inside view of the Jail at Sheikh Badin Hill The station lacks water
supply, therefore the
British built four pools
with channels from the mountains around which collect rain water for drinking and other purposes. The pools have
some great system for filtering the water, made in that period. There is a single well, right next to the pool which is
said to be the storage place for ice. The hill station also has a squash court.
Views from Veranda of Dak Bangla
March 2010 43
Zig-zag track leading to Sheikh Badin Hill
The valley has very less population of Pathans,
comprises of 25-30 houses, one primary boys and girls
school and four masjids. The oasis town of Paniala lies
to the south-east of the hill. Towards the west is the
Lucky Cement Factory - locals say that the factory
pollution is destroying the environment of the hill.
Sheikh Badin also has a variety of wildlife in a nearby

jungle, and a National Wildlife Park known as Sheikh
Badin National Park that has leopards, jackal, wolf,
chakoor and titer (pheasant and partridge).
Cold breezes always blow throughout the year: winters

are quite cold, while summers are chilled.
A few local faces
The park at Sheikh Badin Hill
People from the vicinity visit the hill station to camp

around and enjoy the weather. A single shop has cold
drinks, biscuits and snacks that are double the original
price. Water has to be taken yourself as its difficult to
get water on the hill. It is said by locals that the
Government plans to build a carpeted road, a PTDC
Water channel at Sheikh Badin Hill
motel, a Gomal University Summer Camp Campus and
a chair lift from Paniala.
The author is a student of Business

Administration, and a travel photographer
from Karachi, who is also into write
travelogues, and short stories. In
photography, his focus is on travel and
culture. He can be reached at
edanial@live.com
website: www.edanial.com
44 March 2010
Katasraj Complex A temple that has a pond which is believed to be made of Shiva’s tears on Sati’s (his wife) death.
Photo: Haroon Mustafa
K atas is derived from katakshel, which in

Sanskrit means chain of tears. Katas is
some 18km from the modern city of
Chakwal (Punjab). The Katas site
houses the Satgraha, a group of seven
ancient temples, remains of a Buddhist
stupa, several medieval temples, havelis
and some recently constructed temples,
scattered around a pond considered holy
by Hindus. The temples at Katas are
Text By: Haroon Mustafa mostly constructed on square platforms,
Photography: Muzaffar H. Bukhari
and the elevation of these shrines seems
to form a series of cornices with small
Rows of pillars, crowned by a ribbed
Damaged balconies in one of the temples
dome.
The Ramachandra temple is situated

to the east of the Hari Singh Haveli
and is closed from all sides except for
an entrance on the east. The double-
storied structure has eight rooms of
various dimensions on the ground
floor and a staircase at the south
leading to the first floor. The temple
has two jharokas (balconies) that
have been severely damaged.
The Hanuman temple is on the

western extreme of a high
rectangular enclosure with entrances
on the south and the north. The
temple's ceiling is undecorated and
March 2010 45
View of Katasraj Complex from a temple’s top
lime-plastered. The Shiva temple is also built on a fourteen years they spent in exile. Before coming to this place
square platform. Its entrance is a recessed round arch they were told that the place was holy and that they may find
with faint cusps and a rectangular opening to the some mysteries. When they arrived they were tired and one of
north. them drank water and he died. The second brother drank it and
he also died. It was only when four brothers had drunk the
The Katasraj temple complex is believed to date water and died, that at last the leader or elder brother came
back to the Mahabharata era. There are stories about near to the pond and after a while he heard a voice. The voice
the Pandavas spending time there during their long told him that if he could answer four questions correctly, all
exile. The lake in the complex is believed to have the brothers would regain life. The brother answered all the
magical powers and is thought to be where questions and his four brothers got life again.
Another legend involves the death of Tourists at

Water pond, made out of Shiva’s Tears on his wife’s death Shiva's wife Sati. \The story goes that Katasraj complex
when she died Shiva cried so much and
for so long that his tears created two holy
ponds - one at Pushkar near Ajmer
(Rajasthan, India) and the other at
Kataksha (this literally means "raining
eyes" in Sanskrit). It is from this name
that the word Katas is derived. Another
version of the legend mentions the two
pools at Katasraj and Nainital
(Uttarakhand, India).
An alternative telling of the legend

Yudhisthira defeated the Yaksha with his wisdom to involves the death of Shiva's horse Katas. In the story, the two
bring his brothers back to life. holy ponds (Pushkar and Kataksha) are created by Shiva's
tears when his horse dies... Another version of this legend
Many legends are associated with the temples, some mentions the pools at Katasraj and Nainital. People bathe here
of them involving Shiva himself. Legend says that and seek forgiveness as Hindu belief holds that bathing in the
the five Pandava brothers - heroes of the Sanskrit pond (especially on certain occasions) causes the forgiveness
46 March 2010
Archeological beauty of Katasraj complex
of sins and helps attain salvation. Many

people also believe that this will come from The author is into Information Technology
bathing in the pond at any time. The depth of business, and a hobbyist photographer, based at
this holy pond is still a mystery, but according Islamabad. He can be reached at haroon.mustafa-
to locals the depth of this pond is pl@telenor.com.pk
approximately 300ft and kills at least one
person per year.
A wider view of Katasraj complex
Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katasraj_temple
March 2010 47
Featuring Keny Irwin
The man behind the “Keny Ka Pakistan”
Featured by:
Muzaffar H. Bukhari K enny Irwin is an American artist born to a large family in 1974. Kenny is an
artist by birth, with particular interest in; calligraphy, ball pen drawing, robotic
art, sculptures, light show & Pakistani Starfleet Series including dozens of other
art mediums.
Although an American by birth and nationality, Kenny is a true Pakistani by

soul. His love to Pakistan and its culture seems to be more than that of an
ordinary Pakistani. He does believe in Pakistani culture very much. In his own
words; “It has been a part of me ever since I was practically born. How this has
happened is a mystery. When I was about six years old, my father played
Pakistani music in his car for me. As he did so, something clicked and I felt as if
something was missing so far, that was a part of my soul.”
As Kenny grew, so did his art as well. Pakistani influence has been in his art to
one degree or another throughout his life. Along with this came his reversion to
Islam despite going to eight years of catholic school. Around the turn of the
century Kenny invented The Pakistani Starfleet Series and developed it further
more over the years. Today the series comprises more than 1,000 drawings,
adjoined short stories & long stories. You can see his more recent work at
www.flickr.com/photos/kennyirwin/sets/72157604476547192/
Kenny has also created two Pakistani Starfleet short films on youtube,
www.youtube.com/watch?v=-08XJuhnECQ.
Kenny explains the premise of The Pakistani Starfleet story as: "An alien
invasion plagues the world where the greatest military powers cannot stop the
alien invasion until out of the most unexpected corner of the globe the Pakistani
people rise up with
technology gifted to them by crash landed aliens they helped befriend centuries
ago".
Pakistan Starfleet Series Kenny’s Bic Ball point pen drawings have similar influence with traditional
and futuristic aspects.
wwww.flickr.com/photos/kennyirwin/sets/72057594097496478/
Ball point drawing by Kenny
Kenny has been drawing with nothing but a bic ball point pen for the last few
decades. Much of the subject material is captured from his own dreams. Today
there are well over 1,000 total drawing in which some have been featured at the
AVAM, Baltimore.
Pakistani influence is present all of his work including; drawing, robotics,

sculpture, art installation, painting and much more.
March 2010 48
Kenny has been wearing custom designed tailored
shalwar kameez since last decade and have also Kenny's light show, and other artwork have
designed many Pakistani fashions. This has inspired been featured by many magazines, and
many Pakistanis to take another look at their heritage websites including; Sweden's Home &
and too appreciate it more. He has even invented Garden magazine, www.Gizmodo.com ,
Pakistani tailored snow clothes made from Gortex www.Kotaku.com, www.Digg.com, and
f o u n d a t : www.eNgadget.com. Moreover, his
www.flickr.com/photos/kennyirwin/2297143013/ Microwave art show on the Youtube ranked
the top 700 best shows on the Youtube 2006-
Kenny is considered in the top 700 most famous 2009. www.microwaveshow.com
artists and entertainers on the web.
Photography is another major interest of Kenny

where he focuses on nature & historical as well
science and the unique & interesting subjects.
Kenny has produced a light show for Christmas

celebration that has become the largest most
elaborate residential light show in all of North
America topping out at 7,001,150 lights in 2008.
Similar to the elaborate truck art traditions of
Pakistan, America has a similar elaborate light art
tradition that takes effect every year on houses and
vehicles everywhere during the holidays. Kenny’s
light art is called Robo-Christmas.
www.robochristmas.com. About 22,000 people
from around the globe come to see it and walk the
grounds that feature millions of lights and hundred of
giant artworks and effects. www.robochristmas.com.
As a gesture of his love for Pakistan, its people,

culture and arts, Kenny is sponsoring a monthly
photo contest run by Pakistani Photographers’
Association (PPA) over its flickr group
www.flickr.com/groups/opp. The photo contest
with the name of Kenny Ka Pakistan has being
49 March 2010
Successfully run by PPA since last one year at
flickr. It is worth while to mention here that it is Kenny’s notable distinctions
the only photographic contest at flickr run by any Sr.No. Distinction Year
Pakistani group that offers One-year flickr pro- 1 Artwork featured at 2008-09
account to the winners of the contest every AVAM, Baltimore
month. So far 11 contests have been held, and 10
awards distributed to different winners. The 2 Artwork & light show 2004
result of 11th contest is yet to be announced. featured on HGTV
3 Artwork & light show
The themes of the contest are given by Kenny, featured on TLC
whereas the selection of winner is done by a
panel of PPA’s senior photographers in 4 Won best of competition 1992
consultation with Kenny. So far many interesting Bloomfield hills
themes have been announced, including: association
Traditional is also Modern, Pakistani Robots, state wide Michigan Art
Focus on Swat, Independence, Education, Competition
Ramadan and Eid, Underwater Pakistan,
Pakistani Birthdays, and Pakistan - through 10 5 Won best of Show 1986
Photographs. Coachella valley wide art
contest
We hope that this partnership of PPA with Kenny
will long last and he will continue sponsoring the
contest like he has been so far.
March 2010 50
Meet
Iqbal Khatri
A conversation with a wonderful

photographer from Karachi
whose diversified portfolio provides
inspiration even to professional photogs.
Interviewer: Sultana Tabassum Farooqi Photo: Ameer Hamza
Dear Readers,
3rd Eye is pleased to introduce Mr. Iqbal Khatri, (IK) a well-known photographer, from Karachi, who has superb ideas that
he executes in the perfect manner. Whether it is portrait, landscape, sunset or architecture, he is the best in all of them. His
photo stream at flickr is a must see thing for those who are looking for diversified work done very professionally.!
Here is a conversation between IK and Sultana Tabassum Farooqi, specially for the readers of 3rd Eye.
Beautiful carving - Shahjehani Masjid, Thatta

Sultana: Kindly tell us something about yourself. And what do you do for
living?
IK: Well, I was born in Karachi and settled here with my family. I am a
father of five children. Basically I am a businessman of garments and tailoring
materials.
Sultana: Do you remember when did you start photography?
IK: Since my childhood. I remember that my father bought me a camera

(made in West Germany) first time, when I was too
young - I even do not remember the name of it. I started taking photos of my
family and friends in the beginning; then in early '80s my interest in
photography developed and I started outdoor photography (landscapes and
portraiture) with new concepts and different aspects of daily life and since then
I never go outside without my companion [camera] as I always love to click.
51 March 2010
Sultana: Did you study photography? Sultana: Do you think that a person
must possess talent to capture emotions
IK: No, I have never done any study of photography, it's already in and expression in the picture?
my blood. I totally believe in my own experiments though I
consider myself as 'self-motivated' rather than 'self-taught'. IK: Yes, I believe that the talent is
possessed inside the person.
Sultana: Why is photography important to you?
Sultana: Does the price of a camera
IK: Photography is very important for me. I cannot live affect the quality of the picture?
without it as it's a tool of self-expression. I can easily express my
feeling through it. IK: It's all about the time. In the past,
we had only b/w film or slide film snaps but
Sultana: Who or what influenced you to become a now we are on digital. Sometimes, I think
photographer? the quality of the picture depends mostly
on the photographer, the best gear is
IK: Nothing! nothing without a perfect photographer.
Sultana: Do you believe in

the expression "A picture is worth
Women’s life at Thar Desert
1,000 words"? If yes, why do you
believe?
Beautiful beach of Balochistan
IK: Yeah, I do believe in it. It's
100% true! Because sometimes it's
difficult to express our feelings in
words but it's an easy way to
convey your message to others
through a photograph.
Sultana: Do you have a favourite

photograph?
IK: Yes, I have many of my

favourite photographs but the one
which I like the most is from Thar
Desert.
Sultana: Alright! So you Sultana: What makes a good

have been to Thar Desert, tell me something about that. photographer in your opinion?
IK: Yeah! I have visited the Thar Desert of Pakistan twice. The IK: In my opinion, the spirit, senses,
Thar Desert is just a unique place for its way of culture, people and emotions and the environment make one a
lifestyle. good photographer.
Inshallah! I will go again to take some more great shots of their Sultana: What do you enjoy
daily life. I wish to visit the great Thar Desert of India too. photographing the most?
Sultana: Do you think that society would have been IK: Most of the time I like to take
different if photography were not invented? portraits to capture people's expressions
and also historical places, which I think
IK: Hmmm … It's a difficult one! But I think - yes! Society may vanish in time.
would have been different without photography.
March 2010 52
A heard of bulls on a morning walk.
Sultana: In your opinion, what makes photography an art?
IK: Photography is totally an art. Because you draw an image in your mind before clicking the shutter button.
Sultana: Do you believe that film photography will in the end be totally replaced by digital photography?
IK: Everything is changing rapidly by time, but there are many people who still love to take shots with their 35
mm film rolls. But it's true that digital photography made life easier. Now we do not need to wait for the
developing and processing - we can see the results then and there on the LCD.
A unique way of ploughing the fields. Sultana: Do you prefer using film cameras over
digital ones?
IK: Film cameras are more fun than digital ones! So, I
always prefer using film cameras over digital, but as I
said digital cameras have made life very easy.
Sultana: How do you see your son (Ali Raza) as a

photographer?
IK: Mashallah! He is very talented and has a good

motive and passion for photography and is a deep
observer too. And I am sure that a bright future is
waiting for him.
53 March 2010
March 2010 54
A Pansaari Store (selling spices and herbs)
Sultana: I noticed that you mostly
show different cultures, traditions and
people of our country. Tell me, what
makes you wish to capture pure
Pakistani culture in this way?
IK: I love my country, its culture, and

traditions very much. We have lovely
people with beautiful culture and simple
lifestyle. I always want to show the
beauty of Pakistan, through my
photographs.
Q19: Has photography ever got you into

a trouble?
IK: Every photographer of this world

who does usually street photography or is
a journalist can get into troubles. And, I
also faced troubles sometimes. But here, I would like to share one of my experiences with you.
One day I was taking some pictures of Mohata Palace with one of my friends, Mr. S.M. Rafiq. Suddenly we saw a
few people were cutting an old beautiful tree inside the premises. We started taking pictures to be witness of the
situation and asked them why they were doing this. And that was a moment when we were caught into trouble.
They thought that we are from some media or press and getting coverage that could result in a big trouble for
them. We had a long debate with them and then
we decided to leave the place immediately to Corridors of Shahjehani Masjid, Thatta
avoid a bad situation. As we left the place we
noticed that two of them were following us on the
bikes to our next destination - Jahangir Kothari,
Clifton. We were a bit frightened of them but
when they saw us taking pictures of other places
they realized that we were just photographers,
nothing else, and would not create any problem
for them and they left from there. And that was the
moment I feel that I was really in trouble.
Sultana: What would you like to suggest to the

newcomers in the field of photography? Do you
have any message for them?
IK: I would like to suggest to them to be

positive in their work and work hard to achieve
success in the field of photography.
Sultana: Thank you so very much Mr. Iqbal for

being here and for sharing your views and
personal experiences with us. On the behalf of
3rd Eye and PPA I wish you all the best in your
future. Thanks again.
55 March 2010

3rd Eye - Issue 2 - March 10

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Description:

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

3rd Eye - Issue 2 - March 10

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

tion

An online photographic magazine of Pakistani Photographers’ Association (PPA)

Do You Take This Glacier

Cover Photos: Mazhar Iqbal (Pakistani Trekker)

Cover Photo: Godwin Austin Glacier

Issue 2, March 2010 Awais Yaqoob 32

After inordinate but at the same time, unavoidable delays, the

Some of the writeups received for this issue could not be

(Ghazal Farooqi, Karachi

Photo: Hamid Khan

As the stark reality of unpredictable water flow is dawning on the mountain

A Glacier in Karakoram Mountains

Photo: Hamid Khan

Photo: Mazhar Iqbal

Goodwin-Austin Glacier towards Concordia

According to the tradition, it is vital to transport both blocks in one go,

Ancient Tradition Comes to Life

Only last year, a community-based organization known as Parbat

This was followed by another technical part of the project:

The Only Option Passu Glacier

Although the practice of breeding glaciers

A Glacier on Khunjerab Top

The huge frozen water bodies have shaped peculiar

Other than building channels over mountain ridges to

Photo: Muzaffar H. Bukhari

Gang Singhe that overlooks the town of Skardu is one

An increasing population is exerting stress on the limited 2%

Photo: Muzaffar H. Bukhari

The World's Highest Battleground

A Glacier in Khunjerab National Park

He is also a former elected representative

3rd Eye – Pakistani Photographers’ Association March 2010

Photo: Muzaffar H. Bukhari

M ubarak Village may be the most popular beach name in Karachi

Mubarak Village belongs to an obscure pseudo-Islamic sect

Mending the mangled net ain't easy as our country's

A trip inside Zikri village is anything but common. Their

Well, it is shining hard and fast

William Shakespeare - "Merchant of Venice"

Text and photography:

Church of San Mary & Donato

Restaurants in Venice are famous for their culinary

The classical Venetian boat is the Gondola, although

One of the main reasons behind the charms of Venice is

A couple of years ago, a question was asked on the Tariq Aziz

Having a good cover of poplar trees together

Jabbi Sayyedan is a unique place and

The people of Jabbi Sayyedan are How to reach there:

Shero Dhara and Bissali Tops as seen from Neelfarry

Keran Top is at a hiking distance of about two

Sar Lake with Keran Top in Background

Last Summit of Bedori Top Trek

Camping at Kuthnard during Trek to Bedori

Being the highest peak in an area of about 20 km²,

A trekker, at 2nd Bedori Top

Bisali and Shero Dhara as seen from 2nd Bedori

Sorda means narrow in the local language. It is a place on

Zooming in on Poonch City in Indian-Held Kashmir

A small town on Kahuta/Abbasspur Road at an

This road remains open throughout the season as

Cham means waterfall in the local language. The Cham is

A few kilometers from Cham, is the beautiful valley of Hillan

A 270 degree panorama of Hillan Valley