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The Yangtze river is roughly four thousand miles from its source
to its mouth. It starts as a trickle in a remote region of the vast
Tibetan highlands, a region larger than the whole of western
Europe where, fed by melting snows from countless glaciers, it
gushes down across the Chinhai Plateau into an alpine plain
sparsely inhabited by Tibetan herders tending their sheep and
yak. On this plain runs the ancient tea road, a primitive path cut
in stone that once carried tea from ancient China into Tibet and
the world beyond. The river, ever wider, ever stronger, then
plunges southward off the "roof of the world" through remote
valleys and gorges that few have ever seen. It is here where it
picks up countless square miles of chocolate brown mud to be
carried to the sea and it is here where the river takes the name
"River of Golden Sand."
"The waitress said ox penis," she said out the side of her mouth.
"What does it taste like?" she whispered.
Along the Yangtze watershed live more than 350 million people
a third of all people in China and one of every fifteen people on
earth. It is the main street of China it has been estimated that
cargo on the Yangtze and its tributaries accounts for 80% of
China's total land shipping.
"Do you know the dynasties of Chinese history ?" the Taiwanese
woman asked me. In my ususal sophomoric manner, I replied
"Zelda sews quilts happily (not sadly) to save your memories
cherished."
"It's easy," I said, "ZELDA" stands for the ancient Zhou dynasty
(pronounced Joe) that lasted from 1700 B.C - 200 B.C.; "SEWS" is
the Shang dynasty that was big around 1500 B.C.; "QUILTS" is
the Qin dynasty (pronounced Chin) which although it lasted only
a hundred years was the first dynasty to unify China in 200 B.C.;
"HAPPILY" refers to the Han dynasty (200 B.C. - 200 A.D.), the
oriental equivalent of the Roman Empire; "NOT SADLY" are the
North-South dynasties (220 A.D. - 280 A.D) which were made up
of the legendary Three Kingdoms of Wei (weigh), Chu (shoe) and
Wu (woo); "TO" is the great Tang dynasty (300 A.D. - 600 A.D.),
China's golden age of art and music; "SAVE" is the Song dynasty
(900 A.D. - 1200 A.D) famous for its silk and porcelain; "YOUR" is
the Yuan dynasty (900 A.D. 1300 A.D.) of the Mongol Kublai
Khan that showed Marco Polo the wonders of the East in 1280;
"MEMORIES" is the Ming dynasty (1300 A.D. - 1600 A.D) famous
for its blue-and-white porcelain and the Forbidden City; and
finally "CHERISHED" stands for the Manchu Ching dynasty (1600
A.D. - 1900 A.D.), which was the last dynasty and survived until
1911 when modern Chinese history began.
"What about the Xia and Sui dynasties ?" she asked.
The next day the passengers took a break from the Yangtze and
took a side trip up the Daning River, a picturesque turquoise-
blue tributary of the Yangtze. Boarding motorized sampans that
carried about 20 people each, we headed upstream through
what are called the Lesser Gorges. Although not as large as the
Three Gorges of the Yangtze, the Lesser Gorges are in fact more
spectacular, being steeper with sharper features. We soon
discovered the inboard engine on our sampan was insufficient to
ford the rapids so a towline was thrown ashore and a few
trackers aided in the effort. While bare-backed trackers strained
at the towline, crewmembers on deck fought the current by
pushing and poling with large bamboo poles, thrusting them
deep into the stream and leaning on them until their bodies
touched the deck. Suddenly a pole snapped and one of the
crewmembers, just a few feet from me, careened overboard into
the raging water. In an flash he was swept downstream a sinking
feeling came over me as I knew he had no chance to survive
those perilous rapids. I rushed to the side of the boat and looked
back just in time to see him grab a pole thrust to him by one of
the polers on the sampan directly behind us. The guy pulled
himself out of the water onto the boat, ran to the other side, and
jumped to a large boulder at the side of the river. He then ran
back to our boat, hopped across another couple of boulders and
leaped back onto our boat, where he then grabbed another pole
and continued poling. Twenty passengers watched the entire
incident with their mouths open. I asked him later if he often fell
in the river he laughed and said from time to time.
8
A few days later the Victoria I passed through the last of the
Three Gorges, Xiling Gorge, and the site of what will be the
Three Gorges Dam, the world's largest dam. Cruises up and
down the Yangtze have taken on a sort of urgency in recent
years due to fears the area will be inundated by the Three
Gorges Dam.
and on, dam in the world. The water behind the dam will rise
600 feet and the reservoir created will stretch all the way back
to Chongqing, 850 miles away. Although upwards of a million
people will be forced to resettle, the dam will bring unparalleled
benefits to China in terms of flood control, generation of
electricity, shipping, water supply, and aquiculture. If things go
according to plan the dam will be completed by the year 2008.
"Well," she said, "If you are, you will be able to go up the
Yangtze to Chongqing by sailboat on Yangtze Lake." It would be
in interesting prospect.
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