The Moselle: the Rhine’s Little Sister

by
Jerry Farlow

I was captivated the moment my eyes fell upon her, charmed by her dreamy
curves and tranquil air. I gazed upon her for hours on end. But she was more
than just a pretty picture, she had an earthy side as well, which I learned
from a fellow passenger who told me she had worms, or more accurately
eels.

“Silver eels migrate up the Rhine into the Moselle,” the man said. “In the past
they were overfished, but now they are making a comeback. They make a
good jelly,” he went on. I hoped he was joking about the jelly but he wasn’t.

Of course, I’m talking about the little sister of the Rhine, the Moselle, that
tranquil-flowing river that wiggles and swivels her way from her origins in
eastern France, brushing up against the Grand Dutchy of Luxembourg, before
heading east into Germany’s awe-inspiring Moselle Valley, a valley laced with
medieval villages, picturesque castles, and terraced vineyards spilling down
to the river, and ending her days by emptying into the Rhine at Koblenz.

Recently, my wife and I took a two-week cruise down the Rhine on Uniworld’s
River Queen from Basel, Switzerland to Amsterdam with a side trip up the
Moselle. For us, it was the Moselle that was the highlight of the cruise.

For many visitors to the Moselle Valley, the favorite destination is Trier.

Trier: Where the Road Begins

They say all roads lead to Rome and if that’s true they have to start
somewhere, and Trier is a likely candidate.

In the days of the Caesars, Trier was probably euphemistically called “Rome
for the Barbarians,” but the p.c. name was “Rome North” and a favorite
summer home of Emperor Constantine. I paraphrase our Trier guide Karl, but
I think that’s the gist of it. Karl was leading a small band from the boat
through Trier’s Old Quarter, desperately trying to hold our attention to his
sermon of 2000 years of Roman/medieval history.

“I like that one,” one lady said referring to a gold necklace in a window we
passed.

Karl told us that Trier is the oldest town in Germany, built by the Emperor
Augustus in 16 BC, and for centuries was a political and cultural center. We
followed Karl through the 306 AD Roman Basilica (largest one-room structure
ever built by the Romans), Cathedral Dom St. Peter (built by Constantine in
326 AD, which contributed to the spread Christianity), and Porta Nigra
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(preserved Roman Gate of the town). After that, most of us were looking for
the nearest outdoor café.

For those whom history, architecture and ogling monuments are only part of
the enjoyment of travel, Trier offers much more. An hour later found Susan
and myself sitting at an outdoor café imbibing a cold Bitburger and people
watching. The cold beer, warm bread and fresh salad, along with a
spectacular view of the Porta Nigra, made the experience as close to perfect
as one could imagine.

“Cochem tomorrow is going to have a tough act to follow,” Susan joked.

Cochem and Reichsburg Castle

“It’s always the French,” our guide Marie told us the next day while on a tour
of Reichsburg castle, a turreted, medieval castle overlooking the village of
Cochem. She was referring to the fact that the original 1027 structure was
destroyed in 1689 by Louis XIX’s army, although since then it has been
restored to its original splendor, providing an idyllic backdrop to the town.

“What’s that?” my wife asked Marie referring to an impressive a suit of

armor.

“I’m glad you asked,” Marie said. “It’s a replica armor worn by the most
acclaimed knight in all Germany, some say a Robin Hood, some say a
highway man in shining armor.” Marie went on to say that Götz von
Berlichingen, known as Götz of the Iron Hand, was someone you wouldn’t
want to meet in a dark alley (or anywhere else for that matter). He was a
mercenary knight who at the tender age of 24, had his right arm blown off by
a cannon ball. Unfazed, he strapped on an iron arm, which he called his
“killin’ hand.” Götz and his new-found appendage, which apparently was the
first prosthetic ever, went on to be a one-man wrecking crew and a bane to
anyone who crossed his path, including rich merchants, the Holy Roman
Empire, Turks, and of course, the French. When a Bishop once demanded his
surrender, he thundered back “Er kann mich im Arsch liken!” translated
politely as “Kiss my ass!” Whether we now remember Götz as the author of
this lewd charge, or by his iron accessory, you can draw your own
conclusions.

For some, Cochem along with its castle backdrop and surrounding vineyards
is the most romantic town on the Moselle. With our Lonely Planet in hand,
we set out to explore the medieval squares, half-timbered houses, and
historic sites of the town, only to find ourselves again at an outdoor café
enjoying the cuisine of the region.

Bernkastel: Jewel of the Moselle

“Bernkastel is a small town which is the prettiest of all the pretty towns on
the Moselle,” our guide at the next stop of Bernkastel tells us the next day.
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“I thought our guide in Cochem said Cochem was the prettiest town on the
Moselle,” Susan says under her breath. Then, two seconds later:

“Wow!” was the only thing Susan said as we came upon Berncastel’s
medieval market square. We were in a world of ornately decorated half-
timbered houses of all shapes, styles and colors, right out of a Grimm fairy
tale.

“At Bernkastel we have the steepest vineyards in all of Germany. They are
so steep that when the grapes are picked, the workers must be tethered by
ropes,” our host at the Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler wine cellar told us at a wine-
tasting soiree, as she poured Susan and myself a splash of Pauly-Bergweiler
2007 Riesling Kabinett. As she poured what I guessed to be a swallow full, I
placed my hand over the bottle to keep it running. “Ha,” she laughed as
Susan rolled her eyes.

Koblenz: On the Rhine Again

At last the slow-flowing Moselle met her end at Koblenz when she flowed into
the faster-flowing Rhine. To detail the history of Koblenz and the armies that
passed through, such as Julius Caesar, Charlemagne, Normans, Louis XIV and
even the Russians, would require a semester course in European history.

“Why don’t I take a picture of you right there,” Susan said while on a walking
tour of Koblenz. By this time I was onto her game. Every time we went to a
German-speaking country she’d trick me in standing next to a jewelry store,
where the German word for jewelry is “Schmuck.” Then when we got home
she’d regale in howls of laughter at her photo of me standing next to a
Schmuck sign.

Later, we relaxed on some granite-chiseled love seats along the banks of the
Moselle.

“You better watch out you’ll get hemorrhoids on those,” an elderly lady said
playfully as she passed by.

“So much for Prussians not having a sense of humor,” Susan said under her
breath.

During WWII Koblenz was the command center of Army Group B, and like
many cities along the Rhine, it was heavily bombed by the Allies. Today, the
city has been rebuilt and like all towns and cities along the Rhine and Moselle
are welcoming visitors with open arms.

(the end)
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IF YOU GO:

I traveled on Uniworld’s 14-day “Legendary Rhine & Moselle” cruise. The

itinerary runs between Amsterdam and Basel, Switzerland, with cruise-only
prices beginning at $3,299. Cruises run from April through November. Shorter
Rhine cruises are also available. For more info, contact Uniworld at
http://www.uniworld.com/ or 800-733-7820.

Other cruise lines offering Moselle/Rhine itineraries include:

AMAWaterways: http://www.amawaterways.com/ or 800-626-0126

Avalon Waterways: http://avalonwaterways.com/Cruise-Vacations/Moselle-

River/ or 877.797.8791

Viking River Cruises: http://www.vikingrivercruises.com/ or 800-304-9616

For more on European river cruises: http://www.europeanrivercruises.com/?

nr=mm1r