Professional Documents
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Here you can see an overall geometric design using two basic motifs stitched and dyed in the makiage
technique. This bold pattern on an obi is quite unique and from sometime in the 1940s or 50s I believe
-a really effective use of makiage. Does this give you any ideas for an overall pattern?
What other variations can you come up with? As you further explore mokume shibori on different fabrics
and with different dyesets, you will come to understand that even using the same stitch pattern but
changing the weight or type of fabric will result in different outcomes. Only with repetitive practice and
studying your results will you discover how to get consistent results with most any type of shibori. This is
part of the beauty of shibori- no two pieces are every completely alike. Similar, yes. Identical, no. The
makers hand is always present.
So go ahead, try out a variation or two on the mokume and see what results. Using either some habotai ,
broadcloth or charmuese try at least two different stitch patterns and notice the difference on the resulting
designs. Do they resemble anything to you?
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This was done on some of the silk noil. After gathering, I soaked the fabric giving it a good
wetting out.
For the heart I mixed some scarlet with black and painted on a fairly concentrated solution of dye
Going over the area several times. The last time I diluted the last of the dye and went around the base of the
heart (around the stitched area) letting the dye wick outward a bit. Next, I mixed up some scarlet and
turquoise to make a medium purple and dyed the outside, free portion of the fabric. I decided to add a little
more dye to the bath and dip in a couple more times just dipping the edges this time to get a darker edge.
In the end, I decided that noil is not my favorite for stitching mokume. Here I wasnt able to get good
definition on the interior of the heart. Maybe you will do better. I will have another try later with indigo.
On the folded lines marked with a crease I stitched 4 rows one way and 5 the other using orinui .
Here is how it looked all drawn up-I kept all the puffs of fabric to the back side.
First I made a strong concentration of the fuschia/purple color and painted that on in the center of the
gathered section letting it wick down. I also turned over the piece and using a pipette I inserted dye in
between the puffs taking care not to get any on the outer sections. Next, I made a weak solution of a
greenish yellow and dipped the edges and the back puffy side into the dye. (I did not submerge it.)
I decided I wanted to paint on a little blue green on the front where there was still some white and to also
touch the tips of the puffs with a little concentrated black.
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At this point I rinsed the piece and could have started to clip
my threads. Instead though I decided to preserve the texture
on this one and steamed the piece. To steam, soak the silk
for 20-30 minutes in a weak acid solution (white vinegar or
a 4% acetic acid solution). You can then lay the piece inside
a colander (to keep the piece above the water) in a pot of
water and stem for 20 minutes.( Always use dedicated pans
and containers for dyeing- even though the Colorhue are
non toxic it is just good studio rules to never mix food prep
equipment with dye equipment.)
Let the piece dry COMPLETELY before removing
stitching.
Here are the results after picking out all the stitching- by the way, this was done on 8mm habotai
Enjoy another week of stitching and thinking and lets see what can be discovered this week~ mata ne!
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