Lonely Planet Publications

13

Contents
On the Road

Highlights

Destination Australia 20
Getting Started

22

Itineraries

26

History

33

The Culture

43

Environment

55

Food & Drink

64

Driving Australia

73

New South Wales

83

History
Geography & Climate
Information
National Parks
Activities
Tours
Getting There & Around
SYDNEY
History
Orientation
Information
Sights
Activities
Walking Tour
Sydney for Children
Tours
Festivals & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking

84
88
88
88
88
90
90
91
91
91
101
102
112
113
114
115
115
116
124
128

Entertainment
131
Shopping
134
Getting There & Away
136
Getting Around
136
AROUND SYDNEY
139
Botany Bay
139
Royal National Park
139
Parramatta
140
Camden Area
142
Ku-Ring-Gai Chase
National Park
142
Hawkesbury River
144
Windsor & Richmond
145
BLUE MOUNTAINS
145
Glenbrook to Wentworth
Falls
147
Leura
147
Katoomba
147
Blackheath Area
152
Megalong Valley
152
Mt Victoria & Hartley
153
Jenolan Caves
153
Lithgow
153
NORTH COAST
154
Sydney to Newcastle
154
Newcastle
155
Lower Hunter Valley
160
Upper Hunter Valley
164
Newcastle to Port
Macquarie
165
Port Macquarie
170
Port Macquarie to Coffs
Harbour
182
Coffs Harbour
186
Coffs Harbour to Byron Bay 190
Byron Bay
194
Byron Bay to Tweed Heads 200
FAR NORTH COAST
HINTERLAND
201
Bangalow
201
Lismore
201
Around Lismore
203
Nightcap National Park
203
Nimbin
204
Border Ranges National
Park
205
Mt Warning National Park 205
Murwillumbah
205
NEW ENGLAND
206
Tamworth
206
Around Tamworth
208
The Fossickers Way
208
Uralla
208

14

CONTENTS

Armidale
The Waterfall Way
North of Armidale
Tenterfield
Tenterfield to Casino
CENTRAL WEST
Bathurst
Around Bathurst
Orange
Cowra
Young
Forbes
Parkes
Dubbo
Wellington
Mudgee
Gulgong
NORTHWEST
Newell Highway
Castlereagh Highway
LORD HOWE ISLAND
NORFOLK ISLAND
SOUTH COAST
Wollongong
Wollongong to Nowra
Nowra
Around Nowra
Jervis Bay
Around Jervis Bay
Batemans Bay
Around Batemans Bay
Narooma
Around Narooma
South to the
Victorian Border
SNOWY MOUNTAINS
Cooma
Jindabyne
Kosciuszko National Park
SOUTHWEST & THE
MURRAY
Hume Highway
Sydney to Goulburn
Goulburn & Around
Yass
Gundagai
Albury Wodonga
Wagga Wagga
Junee
Narrandera
Griffith
Leeton
Willandra National Park
Hay
Deniliquin

209
210
213
214
214
215
215
216
216
217
218
218
219
219
220
220
221
221
222
223
223
225
227
227
230
232
233
233
233
234
234
235
236
237
239
239
240
241
246
246
246
247
247
247
248
250
251
251
252
253
253
253
254

Jerilderie
Along the Murray
Wentworth
OUTBACK
Bourke
Back O Bourke Corner
Country
Barrier Highway
Broken Hill
Around Broken Hill
Mungo National Park

Australian Capital
Territory

254
254
255
255
255
256
257
257
261
262

263

CANBERRA
History
Climate
Orientation
Information
Sights
Activities
Walking Tour
Canberra for Children
Tours
Festivals & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Shopping
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
AROUND CANBERRA
South & West of the City
the Wild Side
North & East of the City
Queanbeyan &
Bungendore

Queensland
History
Geography & Climate
Information
National Parks
Activities
Tours
Getting There & Around
BRISBANE
History
Orientation
Information
Sights
Activities
Walking Tour

265
265
265
267
267
269
274
274
275
276
276
276
278
281
281
282
282
283
284
284
285
285

286
287
290
290
291
291
293
293
295
295
295
295
303
307
308

Brisbane for Children

Tours
Festivals & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Shopping
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
MORETON BAY
North Stradbroke Island
Moreton Island
Bribie Island
GOLD COAST
Southport & Main Beach
Surfers Paradise &
Broadbeach
Burleigh Heads
Coolangatta
GOLD COAST
HINTERLAND
Tamborine Mountain
Springbrook National Park
Lamington National Park
SUNSHINE COAST
Glass House Mountains
Caloundra
Maroochy
Around Maroochy
Noosa
Cooloola Coast
Sunshine Coast Hinterland
DARLING DOWNS
Stanthorpe & the Granite
Belt
Toowoomba
Toowoomba to Roma
Roma
FRASER COAST
Gympie
Rainbow Beach
Maryborough
Hervey Bay
Fraser Island
Childers
Bundaberg
CAPRICORN COAST
Southern Reef Islands
Agnes Water &
Town of 1770
Rockhampton
Around Rockhampton
Yeppoon
Great Keppel Island
Other Keppel Bay Islands

310
310
311
312
314
316
317
319
320
322
323
323
326
327
327
329
330
335
336
336
337
337
337
339
340
340
341
343
344
349
350
351
351
352
352
353
354
354
355
355
357
360
365
365
366
367
369
370
371
372
372
374

CONTENTS

Capricorn Hinterland
OUTBACK
Charters Towers to
Cloncurry
Cloncurry
Mt Isa
Mt Isa to Charleville
Charleville
The Channel Country
WHITSUNDAY COAST
Mackay
Around Mackay
Airlie Beach
Whitsunday Islands
Bowen
NORTH COAST
Townsville
Magnetic Island
North Coast Hinterland
Townsville to Mission
Beach
Mission Beach
Dunk Island
Mission Beach to Cairns
GULF SAVANNAH
The Savannah Way
Normanton to Cloncurry
Normanton to Northern
Territory
Burketown to Camooweal
FAR NORTH
QUEENSLAND
Cairns
Islands off Cairns
Cairns Northern Beaches
Kuranda
Atherton Tablelands
Port Douglas
Mossman
Daintree Village
Around Cape Tribulation
Cape Tribulation
Cape Tribulation to
Cooktown
Cooktown
Lizard Island
Cairns to Cooktown
the Inland Road
CAPE YORK PENINSULA
Lakeland & Laura
Laura to Archer River
Roadhouse
Weipa
North to the Jardine
The Tip
Thursday Island & Torres
Strait Islands

374
375
376
376
376
378
380
380
383
383
386
387
393
396
397
397
403
407
409
413
415
416
417
418
419
420
420
421
421
435
435
438
440
445
450
450
451
454
455
456
459
459
459
462
463
464
464
465
465

Victoria

467

History
470
Geography & Climate
470
Information
470
National Parks
470
Activities
471
Tours
472
Getting There & Around
473
MELBOURNE
474
History
474
Orientation
474
Information
475
Sights
483
Activities
490
Walking Tour
491
Melbourne for Children
492
Tours
493
Festivals & Events
493
Sleeping
494
Eating
500
Drinking
504
Entertainment
507
Shopping
511
Getting There & Away
512
Getting Around
513
AROUND MELBOURNE
514
Melbourne to Geelong
514
Geelong
514
Bellarine Peninsula
518
Calder Highway
520
The Yarra Valley
521
The Dandenongs
521
Mornington Peninsula
522
French Island
524
Phillip Island
525
GREAT OCEAN ROAD
528
Torquay
529
Anglesea
529
Lorne
530
Apollo Bay
533
Cape Otway
536
Port Campbell National
Park
536
SOUTHWEST
537
Warrnambool
537
Tower Hill Reserve
540
Port Fairy
540
Portland
541
Portland to South Australia 543
The Western District
544
THE WIMMERA
544
Stawell
545
Grampians National Park
(Gariwerd)
545
Horsham
549

Mt Arapiles State Park

Dimboola
Little Desert National Park
THE MALLEE
Big Desert Wilderness Park
Murray-Sunset National
Park
THE MURRAY RIVER
Hattah-Kulkyne National
Park
Mildura
Swan Hill
Echuca
Barmah State Park
Yarrawonga
Rutherglen
Chiltern
Wodonga
Wodonga to Corryong
GOLDFIELDS
Ballarat
Daylesford & Hepburn
Springs
Castlemaine
Maldon
Maryborough
Bendigo
THE HIGH COUNTRY
Eildon
Mansfield
Mt Buller
Milawa/Oxley Gourmet
Region
Beechworth
Yackandandah
Myrtleford
Mt Buffalo
Bright
Mt Beauty
Falls Creek
Harrietville
Mt Hotham
Dinner Plain
Omeo
Anglers Rest
Mt Baw Baw
GOULBURN VALLEY &
HUME FREEWAY REGION
Glenrowan
Wangaratta
Shepparton
Nagambie
GIPPSLAND
South Gippsland
West Gippsland & the
Latrobe Valley

15

550
550
550
551
551
551
552
552
552
556
557
559
560
560
561
561
561
561
562
566
570
571
572
572
576
577
578
579
580
580
582
582
582
583
584
585
586
586
588
589
589
589
590
590
590
591
592
592
593
596

16

CONTENTS

The Lakes District

East Gippsland & the
Wilderness Coast

Tasmania

597
600

605

History
Geography & Climate
Information
National Parks
Activities
Tours
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
HOBART
History
Orientation
Information
Sights
Activities
Walking Tour
Hobart for Children
Tours
Festivals & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Shopping
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
AROUND HOBART
Richmond
Mt Field National Park
Taroona & Kingston
Seven Mile Beach
THE SOUTHEAST
Kettering
Bruny Island
Woodbridge
Cygnet
Huonville
Geeveston
Hartz Mountains National
Park
Dover
Hastings Caves & Thermal
Springs
Cockle Creek
TASMAN PENINSULA
Sorell
Eaglehawk Neck to Port
Arthur
Port Arthur
MIDLANDS
Oatlands

606
608
608
608
609
610
611
612
613
614
614
614
616
620
621
622
622
623
623
626
628
628
637
638
638
638
639
639
640
641
641
641
643
644
644
645
645
646
646
646
646
647
647
648
649
650
650

Ross
651
Campbell Town
651
EAST COAST
652
Orford
652
Triabunna & Maria Island
National Park
653
Swansea
654
Coles Bay & Freycinet
National Park
655
Bicheno
657
St Marys
659
THE NORTHEAST
659
St Helens
659
Bay of Fires
660
Mt William National Park 660
Scottsdale & Around
661
Pipers River Region
661
LAUNCESTON
661
Orientation
662
Information
662
Sights & Activities
662
Tours
665
Festivals & Events
665
Sleeping
665
Eating
667
Drinking & Entertainment 667
Getting There & Away
668
Getting Around
668
AROUND LAUNCESTON 669
Tamar Valley
669
Westbury
671
Longford & Around
671
Evandale
672
Ben Lomond National Park 672
THE NORTH
672
Devonport
673
Deloraine
676
Mole Creek
677
Walls of Jerusalem
National Park
677
Sheffield & Around
678
Ulverstone & Around
679
Penguin
679
THE NORTHWEST
680
Burnie
680
Wynyard
682
Boat Harbour
682
Stanley
682
Smithton & Around
684
Marrawah
684
Arthur River
684
THE WEST
685
Corinna
685
Zeehan
686
Queenstown
687
Strahan
687

Franklin-Gordon Wild
Rivers National Park
Cradle Mountain-Lake
St Clair National Park
THE SOUTHWEST
Southwest National Park
Lake Pedder &
Strathgordon
BASS STRAIT ISLANDS
King Island
Flinders Island

South Australia

690
691
695
695
696
696
696
698

701

History
702
Geography & Climate
703
Information
704
National Parks
704
Activities
704
Whale Watching
705
Tours
706
Getting There & Around
706
ADELAIDE
707
Orientation
708
Information
709
Sights
712
Activities
715
Walking Tour
716
Adelaide for Children
717
Tours
717
Festivals & Events
717
Sleeping
718
Eating
720
Drinking
723
Entertainment
724
Shopping
725
Getting There & Away
725
Getting Around
726
ADELAIDE HILLS
727
Adelaide to Birdwood
730
Hahndorf
730
FLEURIEU PENINSULA
731
McLaren Vale Wine Region 731
Willunga
733
Gulf St Vincent Beaches
734
Victor Harbor
734
Port Elliot
735
Goolwa
735
KANGAROO ISLAND
737
Kingscote
739
American River
740
Penneshaw & Dudley
Peninsula
740
North Coast Road
741
South Coast Road
742
Flinders Chase National Park 743

BAROSSA VALLEY
743
Tanunda
746
Nuriootpa
747
Angaston
748
MID-NORTH
748
Kapunda
749
Auburn
749
Clare Valley Wine Region 750
Burra
751
Peterborough & Orroroo 753
Mt Remarkable National
Park
753
SOUTHEAST
753
Coorong National Park
753
Meningie
754
Meningie to Robe
754
Robe
754
Beachport
755
Mt Gambier
755
Coonawarra Wine Region 757
Naracoorte
757
Naracoorte Caves
National Park
758
MURRAY RIVER
758
Murray Bridge
759
Mannum to Waikerie
759
Barmera
760
Around Barmera
761
Loxton
761
Berri
762
Renmark
762
YORKE PENINSULA
763
West Coast
764
East Coast
765
Innes National Park
765
EYRE PENINSULA & WEST
COAST
766
Port Augusta
766
Whyalla
768
Whyalla to Port Lincoln
768
Port Lincoln
768
Around Port Lincoln
769
Port Lincoln to Streaky Bay 769
Streaky Bay
771
Ceduna
771
Ceduna to the Western
Australia Border
771
FLINDERS RANGES
772
Quorn
774
Hawker
775
Wilpena Pound
775
Blinman
778
Around Blinman
778
Leigh Creek & Copley
778
Arkaroola
779
OUTBACK
779

Woomera
Roxby Downs &
Andamooka
Glendambo
Coober Pedy
Coober Pedy to Marla
Marla
Marree
Marree to Oodnadatta
Oodnadatta
Birdsville Track
Strzelecki Track
Innamincka

780
781
781
781
784
784
784
785
785
785
786
786

Northern Territory

787

History
Geography & Climate
Information
National Parks
Activities
Seasonal Work
Tours
Getting There & Around
DARWIN
History
Orientation
Information
Dangers & Annoyances
Sights
Activities
Walking Tour
Darwin for Children
Tours
Festivals & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Shopping
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
AROUND DARWIN
Howard Springs Nature
Park
Darwin Crocodile Farm
Tiwi Islands
Arnhem Highway
Mary River Region
Stuart Highway to
Litchfield National Park
Litchfield National Park
Adelaide River to Katherine
KAKADU & ARNHEM
LAND
Kakadu National Park

788
790
790
791
792
792
793
793
794
795
795
795
797
797
802
802
803
803
804
804
807
808
809
810
810
811
812
812
812
812
813
815
816
817
818
819
819

CONTENTS

17

Arnhem Land
KATHERINE TO ALICE
Katherine
Around Katherine
Katherine to Western
Australia
Mataranka
Barkly Tableland & Gulf
Country
Mataranka to Tennant
Creek
Tennant Creek
Tennant Creek to Alice
Springs
ALICE SPRINGS
Orientation
Information
Dangers & Annoyances
Sights
Activities
Walking Tour
Alice Springs for Children
Tours
Festivals & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Shopping
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
MACDONNELL RANGES
East MacDonnell Ranges
West MacDonnell Ranges
SOUTH OF ALICE
SPRINGS
Larapinta Drive
Old Ghan Road
Rainbow Valley
Conservation Reserve
Stuarts Well
Ernest Giles Road
Watarrka (Kings Canyon)
National Park
Lasseter Highway
ULURU-KATA TJUTA
NATIONAL PARK
Uluru (Ayers Rock)
Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)
Heading West
Yulara (Ayers Rock Resort)

826
827
828
830

Western Australia
History
Geography & Climate
Information
National Parks

832
833
834
835
836
837
838
839
839
839
839
843
845
845
845
846
846
848
849
849
850
850
851
851
851
853
856
856
857
858
858
859
859
860
860
862
863
864
864

869
870
872
872
872

18

CONTENTS

Activities
Tours
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
PERTH
History
Orientation
Information
Sights
Activities
Walking Tour
Perth for Children
Tours
Festivals & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Shopping
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
FREMANTLE
History
Information
Sights & Activities
Tours
Festivals & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking
Entertainment
Shopping
Getting There & Around
AROUND PERTH
Rottnest Island
North of Perth
South of Perth
THE SOUTHWEST
Bunbury
Busselton
Dunsborough
Yallingup
Margaret River
Augusta
Southern Forests
SOUTH COAST
Walpole-Nornalup Area
Denmark
Mt Barker
Porongurup & Stirling
Range
Albany
Around Albany
Albany to Esperance
Esperance

873
874
874
874
875
875
883
883
884
885
885
886
887
887
887
889
891
892
893
894
894
896
896
896
896
897
897
897
900
900
901
901
901
901
901
905
907
909
909
911
911
912
912
915
916
919
919
921
922
922
923
926
926
927

Cape Le Grand & Cape

Arid
SOUTHERN OUTBACK
Coolgardie
Kalgoorlie-Boulder
North of KalgoorlieBoulder
South of KalgoorlieBoulder
Eyre Highway
THE MIDLANDS &
WHEATBELT
Cunderdin to Southern
Cross
Wave Rock & Hyden
Other Wheatbelt Towns
Wildflower Way
GREAT NORTHERN
HIGHWAY
New Norcia
New Norcia to Newman
Karijini National Park
CENTRAL WEST COAST
Jurien Bay to DongaraPort Denison
Dongara-Port Denison
Greenough
Geraldton
Houtman Abrolhos Islands
Northampton to Kalbarri
Kalbarri
Shark Bay
Carnarvon
Gascoyne Area
CORAL COAST & PILBARA
Coral Bay
Exmouth
Ningaloo Marine Park
Cape Range National Park
Karratha
Dampier
Roebourne Area
Millstream-Chichester
National Park
Marble Bar
Port Hedland
Port Hedland to Broome
THE KIMBERLEY
Broome
Around Broome
Derby
Gibb River Road
Kalumburu Road
Devonian Reef National
Parks
Fitzroy Crossing
Halls Creek

936

Wolfe Creek Meteorite

Crater
Purnululu National Park
Bungle Bungle Range
Wyndham
Kununurra
Lake Argyle

937
937

Directory

929
930
930
931

939
939
939
940
941
941
942
942
943
945
945
946
946
947
950
950
951
954
957
959
959
960
962
965
965
966
967
967
968
968
968
972
972
972
981
982
983
985
985
986
986

GETTING THERE &

AWAY
Entering the Country
Air
Sea
GETTING AROUND
Air
Bicycle
Boat
Bus
Car & Motorcycle
Hitching
Train

987
987
988
990

991

Accommodation
Activities
Business Hours
Children
Climate Charts
Courses
Customs & Quarantine
Dangers & Annoyances
Disabled Travellers
Discount Cards
Embassies & Consulates
Festivals & Events
Food
Gay & Lesbian Travellers
Holidays
Insurance
Internet Access
Legal Matters
Maps
Money
Photography & Video
Post
Shopping
Telephone
Time
Toilets
Tourist Information
Visas
Women Travellers
Work

Transport

986

991
995
998
998
999
999
999
1001
1004
1004
1004
1006
1007
1007
1008
1008
1009
1009
1010
1010
1011
1011
1012
1013
1014
1014
1014
1014
1015
1018

1020
1020
1020
1020
1023
1023
1023
1024
1025
1025
1028
1035
1035

 Lonely Planet Publications

C O N T E N T S 19

Jet Lag & Motion Sickness 1053

IN AUSTRALIA
1053
Availability & Cost of
Health Care
1053
Infectious Diseases
1054
Travellers Diarrhoea
1055
Environmental Hazards 1055

1036

Health

BEFORE YOU GO
1036
Insurance
1036
Required & Recommended
Vaccinations
1036
Medical Checklist
1036
Internet Resources
1053
Further Reading
1053
IN TRANSIT
1053
Deep Vein Thrombosis
(DVT)
1053

Glossary
The Authors

1058
1061

Behind the Scenes 1066

Index

1075

GreenDex

1095

Map Legend

1100

Regional Map Contents

NORTHERN
TERRITORY
p789
QUEENSLAND
pp2889
WESTERN
AUSTRALIA
p871

SOUTH
AUSTRALIA
p703

ROAD MAPS
p103752

NEW
SOUTH
WALES
pp867
VICTORIA
pp4689

ACT
p264

TASMANIA
p607

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