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TABLE OF CONTENTS
FABRICS AND APPAREL STANDARD TEST METHODS ........................ 3
Standard Test Method # 1 - KS&C Torque Test Method ....................................................... 3
Standard Test Method # 2 - Wicking Test Methods ............................................................... 5
Standard Test Method # 3 - Combined Accelerated Colorfastness to Laundering Test ......... 6
Standard Test Method # 4 High Risk Color Blocked Styles (Knit and Woven) ................. 8
Standard Test Method # 5 Safety Assessment of Functional Drawstrings ........................ 11
Standard Test Method # 6 Bar Band Elongation ............................................................... 16
To determine the degree of fabric distortion and seam torque for single
knits made of single yarns.
Description: Fabrics that need to be tested include, all single knit fabrics knitted from
single yarns. Procedure is provided below to determine before wash
fabric distortion and seam torque.
Procedure for Garment:
To determine the percent of seam torque after washing the garment, divide the
length of seam displacement at hem or bottom (line B of below sketch) by
the length of side seam (measured from where seam twisting started to hem
or bottom of the garment (line A of below sketch)) and multiply by 100.
Contrast stripes or trimmings and color blocked garments: Color Change and
Staining 4.5 or better.
13. Compare the used testing solution to an unused solution. There should not
be any appreciable staining of the used solution.
If the sample fails the Non-Chlorine Bleach test but passes the wash test, then the
fabric must be labeled Do Not Bleach.
To ensure high risk color-blocked garments with contrast color have the
best possible colorfastness performances.
Description: Color blocking is a design concept that combines at least two different
colors in the same garment. These colors are generally contrasting
colors with one being of heavy shade and the other a light shade.
There should be no color transfer or cross staining from the dark to the
light shade, particularly onto white or off white shades.
Thus, high risk color blocked products require more stringent
colorfastness ratings for the individual colors than normal specifications
of Kate Spade & Company and must be discussed with the fabric
supplier before a Purchase Order is written for the program. The
supplier must choose dyes (and processing steps) that meet the
stringent requirements. The dyes will generally be more expensive
than normal dye cost.
Apparatus:
Color Standard Depths: Matt B.S.1006 and I.S.O. 105 (see below pictures):
2) The different color shades with all over print design pattern AND the shortest
distance (either length or width in irregular shape) is less than 0.3 cm, see below
products as example:
10
Definitions:
Functional Drawstring - A cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or nontextile material with or without embellishment, such as a toggle, pom-pom, feather, or
bead which passes through a channel, loop(s) or eyelet(s) or similar, to adjust the
size of the opening, or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself.
Hip Width Measurement - The hip width is to be measured 5 below the top edge
using the 3-points of measurements as shown below:
11
Test Procedures
Test must be conducted under standard conditions:
1.1. Allowance of Functional Drawstring
According to the KS&C Childrens Apparel Safety Testing Protocol
Functional Drawstring Performance Requirements, visual assessments are
required to identify the allowance of Drawstring and related construction
requirements (Tacked at midpoint, no knots, etc) prior to the Drawstring
Measurement.
If the Functional Drawstring is Not Allowed to be used and the related
constructive requirements are not met, report the failure directly.
If the presence of Functional Drawstring is allowed, the length of Drawstring is
measured following below step 1.2.
1.2. Functional Drawstring Measurement
Measure the Functional Drawstring from where the strings extend out of the
garment when it is expanded to its fullest width.
To ensure the garment is expanded to its fullest width, follow below steps:
A.
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ii. The garment is laid flat on the bench and ensure no crinkles were
found along the Drawstring channel:
iii. The length is measured from the point where the drawstring exits
the channel to the tip of string.
13
B.
ii. The first lab technician stretches the Drawstring channel (waistband) to the
hip width (for woven) or hip width +1 (for knit); During the stretching,
the exposed portion of the drawstring will retreat back into the Drawstring
Channel by hand:
Remark: this photo is used for showing the measurement method only. Referring to
KS&C Childrens Apparel Safety Testing Protocol for the requirement is a must.
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iii. While the garment is held under the tension at the specified width, a second
lab technician, with a steel ruler, measures the length of the drawstrings
exposed portion. The length is measured from the point where the
drawstring exits the channel to the tip of string:
Remark: this photo is used for showing the measurement method only. Referring to
KS&C Childrens Apparel Safety Testing Protocol for the requirement is a must.
1.3. Report
Report the findings including the type of Drawstring, position of Drawstring found on
the garment, length of drawstring in inches and conclusion.
15
To determine the force (lbs) exerted on the bottom band of a bra at the
minimum and maximum band settings; measured at 5 below the labeled
size.
Place the center front of the bra (i.e. between the cups) on the upper hook
and zero out the weight of the bra on the Instron. Place the back of the bra
band (at point of closure if a back closure bra) over the lower hook.
Elongate the bra to a distance 5 less than the labeled bra size (cross head
travel distance of 3.5 from the established Gauge length) and return to zero
extension.
Repeat a second cycle on the bra and record the load in pounds. Repeat
this test on the two remaining bras and average the test results.
Adjust the same 3 bras to the smallest size adjustment. Repeat the
process in point 3, and average the test results.
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4. If the bra being tested is not adjustable, follow the same test procedure as outlined
in point 3 and note this when reporting test results.
Report: Report load in pounds to extend the bottom band of a bra to 5 below the
labeled bra size (at the smallest and largest setting if the bra has a multiple hook &
eye fastening) by the outlined test method. Provide the results to a single load value
results if the bra band is not adjustable.
Remarks: Load value in pounds of the bottom band of a bra at an elongation 5 less
than the labeled bra size (cross head travel distance of 3.5 from the established
gauge length).
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Apparatus
Procedure
4
5
Evaluation
Action
Cut a sample measuring 1 x 2
Mount sample into the upper clamp on the Bally Flexometer
with one end measuring 1 folded in half so that the front
sides are together.
Mount sample into the lower clamp on the Bally Flexometer
with the other end measuring 1 folded in half so that the
back sides are together.
Begin flexing the sample to the standard number of flexes
(20,000 flexes for leather and 50,000 flexes for PVC).
Check the state of the sample every hour and stop prior to
completion if there is a change in the appearance of the
sample.
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Specification
Release/
Revision
19
Apparatus
A.
B.
C.
D.
Beaker
Brush
Blue or black ink ball point pen
Cleaning Agent
Tide and distilled water for fabrics and straw,
Meltonian Leather Lotion for PVC
Guardsmen Leather Cleaner and Leather Conditioner
(more information refer to http://guardsman.com/guardsman/index.jsp)
Step
1
2
3
Kate Spade & Company
Action
A. For Food Staining Solution:
Each test specimen shall have the staining solution applied
with a brush to a 1 X 1 area minimum.
Allow the solution to dry.
Spot clean the surface with the appropriate cleaning agent
mentioned above:
a. When cleaning fabric or straw apply the Tide and distilled
water mixture to the stain and brush gently with a soft
brush. Remove excess cleaning solution with a damp
paper towel and pat dry.
b. When cleaning leather or PVC apply appropriate
cleaning agent with a paper towel or soft cloth and rub.
Action
B. For Ink (ball point blue/black pen):
Draw a 3 line on the surface of the specimen
Allow the ink mark to set for 10 minutes.
Repeat steps 3a/b above.
20
Evaluation
A. Evaluate any resulting stain on the sample due to either the food
staining solution, ink or cleaning agent.
Rate stain as: Slight/Moderate/Severe
Specification
Release/
Revision
21
Apparatus
Procedure
3
4
Action
Draw 10 X 10 square with size of 1mm x 1mm by cutter at
surface.
With the tip of the finger, press and rub 1 strip of the tape
onto the surface of the sample making sure one end of the
tape is not attached to sample.
Hold the free end of the tape at a 90 degree angle to the
surface and detach it with one quick pulling motion
Repeat step 2 & 3 , and total three times on same surface
Evaluation
Specification
A. No adhesion loss
Release/
Revision
22
Apparatus
Procedure
Action
Cut three samples measuring 2 x 5 .
Separate, by hand, one inch of the backing material from the
PU/PVC.
Clamp the separated 1 inch portion of the backing material
in the lower jaw.
Clamp the separated 1 inch portion of the PU/PVC in the
upper jaw.
Test sample, pulling the backing and PU/PVC apart from
each other and print out results.
Repeat steps 2 5 two more times to get an average load
mean of three samples.
Evaluation
A. Record the average load mean result for the three samples.
Specification
A. 3 pounds minimum.
Release/
Revision
23
Apparatus
A. Cold Box set at minus 23 +/- 5 degrees Celsius and able to fit the
Masland Impact Tester inside it
B. Masland Impact Tester
C. Stapler
Procedure
Action
Cut sample to measure 2 x 6.
Double the sample over lengthwise with the finished side
out.
Staple the outside ends.
Condition the specimen for two hours in the cold box minus
23 +/- 5 degrees Celsius.
While working inside the cold box, place the looped
(unstapled) side on the Masland Impact Tester Anvil.
Raise arm of impact tester to a vertical position and allow it
to fall free on the sample loop.
Evaluation
Specification
A. No Crack
Release/
Revision
24
Apparatus
Procedure
3
4
Evaluation
A.
B.
Action
Using tongue die cut three samples in the warp direction and
cut three samples in the fill direction of the material.
Place the 3 x 8 specimen in the clamps so that the slit is
centered in the jaw and the ends of the tongues are
completely held in separate clamps (see attachment).
Test the sample and print out results
Repeat steps 2 3 for all samples to get an average load
mean of three warp and three fill directions.
Record the average load mean of the warp and flit directions for
each sample.
Record the warp and fill averages separately.
Specification
Release/
Revision
25
Diagram 1:
Sample
Diagram 2:
Tongue Tearing
Test
26
Apparatus
A.
B.
C.
Procedure
Step
1
2
3
4
5
Action
Cut four 1 x 2 samples.
Place two samples face-to-face, and two samples face-toback between 2 glass plates.
Place the plates in the oven at 160 degrees Fahrenheit.
Place an 8 pound weight on top of the plates to compress
the samples
Leave in oven for six hours.
When samples are cool to the touch remove them from the
glass plates.
Evaluation
Specification
A. No Blocking
Release/
Revision
27
Apparatus
Diagram 3:
Thread Spool
Label
Procedure
4
5
6
Action
Cut three PU/PVC swatches measuring 3 x 6 in the warp
and three swatches measuring 3 x 6 in the fill directions.
Prepare three sets of seams by placing two samples from
the warp direction with the front sides together, place two
samples from the fill direction with front sides together, place
one sample from the warp and one sample from the fill
direction with front sides together.
Sew seams airing the 6 side of the samples with a 5/8
seam allowance and stitch density of 8 9 stitches per inch
(spi).
Set the distance between the grip faces at the start of the
test at 2.
Center the seam line between the grip faces then close the
grips.
Run test for each of the three sets of seams.
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Evaluation
Specification
Release/
Revision
29
Apparatus
A.
B.
C.
Procedure
Evaluation
A.
B.
Action
Place sample in wet environmental oven for 22 hours.
Place sample at room temperature (75 degrees F. +/- 5
degrees) for 2 hours minimum
Place sample in dry oven for 22 hours.
Place sample at room temperature (75 degrees F. +/- 5
degrees) for 2 hours minimum.
Place sample in cold box for 22 hours.
Place sample at mom temperature (75 degrees F. +/- 5
degrees) for 2 hours minimum.
Evaluate sample after each individual test cycle (wet oven, dry
oven, cold box) and a 2 hour recovery period at room
temperature.
Record any corrosion, blistering, warpage and/or any other
change in characteristics.
Specification
A. No Change
Release/
Revision
30
Apparatus
Procedure
Evaluation
Action
Place sample into oven in contact with substrate it is
intended to be used with.
Check hardware and substrate after 24 and 48 hours of
exposure.
Specification
A.
B.
Release/
Revision
No Change
Slight Change is considered a borderline situation and can be
interpreted as either pass, fail or waive by KS&C. This depends
on the location of the failure, nature of merchandise, and past
field performance.
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Apparatus
Procedure
Evaluation
Action
Place sample into oven in contact with substrate it is
intended to be used with.
Check hardware after 24 and 48 hours of exposure.
Specification
A.
B.
Release/
Revision
No Change
Slight Change is considered a borderline situation and can be
interpreted as either pass, fail or waive by KS&C. This depends
on the location of the failure, nature of merchandise and past field
experience.
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Apparatus
A.
B.
Procedure
Step
1
2
Action
Drop sample 36 inches onto a steel platform.
Repeat step 1 until the point of failure or until the sample
has been dropped 10 times whichever is first.
Evaluation
Specification
Release/
Revision
33
Apparatus
A.
B.
C.
Procedure
2
3
Action
Clamp into jaws actual piece of hardware to be tested, if
possible, or loop cord or straps through hardware (such as a
dog leash, omega ring, etc), and close cord or straps in
upper and lower jaws.
Test sample and print out results
Repeat steps 1 2 two more times to get an average peak
load of three samples.
Evaluation
A. Record the average peak load result for the three samples.
Specification
34
Large Size
Large Size
Small Size
Release/
Revision
Large Size
Large Size
Small Size
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Apparatus
A.
B.
Procedure
Step
1
2
3
4
Action
Place one drop of 50% nitric acid solution on the sample.
Allow the drop of solution to remain on the sample for 10
minutes.
Remove the drop with a paper towel.
Visually inspect the area of contact.
Evaluation
Specification
Release/
Revision
36
Apparatus
A. Handle Hold Tester, which has a four inch drop and cycles at
18 +/- 5 cycles/minute. Speed can be adjusted within this
range for minimum handbag swinging.
B. Weights (lead shot bags)
Procedure
Action
Place appropriate weight load inside handbag, as evenly as
possible and set number of cycles on handle hold tester.
Guidelines are as follows:
Shoulder Strap Handbags
Small/Medium 10 lb. load inside handbag for 5,000
cycles
Large
15 lb. load inside handbag for 5,000
cycles
Bale Handle Handbags
Small/Medium 10 lb. Load inside handbag for 2,500
cycles on each handle separately and
2,500 cycles both handles together
Large
15 lb. Load inside handbag for 2,500
cycles on each handle separately and
2,500 cycles both handles together
2
3
4
Evaluation
37
Specification
Release/
Revision
38
Apparatus
Procedure
Evaluation
Specification
Release/
Revision
39
Apparatus
A
B.
C.
D.
Procedure
Dropper
Distill Water
75% Alcohol
White Cloth
Step
1
2
3
Action
Use dropper and place 5 drop of testing solution at one spot area
Evaluation
Specification
No Stain
Release/
Revision
40
Apparatus
A.
B.
C.
Procedure
Action
Clamp into jaws actual piece of small leather good or wallet
to be tested, set 30 pounds as requirement
41
3
Evaluation
A.
B.
Repeat steps 1-2 two more times at all card slot if specimen
is applicable.
After reaching minimal tensile strength requirement, evaluate the
tested specimen for any failure of load bearing.
If failure occurs before reaching minimal requirement, record
peak load force reading at point of failure and exact location &
nature of the failure (thread, material). Evaluate the tested
specimen for any other failures of the load bearing
Specification
Release/
Revision
42
Apparatus
Procedure
Action
A minimum of 10 buttons from each lot which are
free of defects, grease, cracks, etc. are selected. No
conditioning of the button is required.
The pipe must be mounted to a stand so that the
bottom of the pipe is 1.5" above the steel base.
Place the button sample on the base with face
upward so that the center of the steel ball is aligned
with the center of the button.
Insert the small steel plate through the pre-cut slot in
the pipe at a designated height (4.0") so that the total
free fall height equals 5.5 inches.
Drop the ball into the top opening of the pipe and
allow the ball to rest on the inserted steel plate.
Retract the steel plate from the pipe so that the steel
ball free falls onto the button.
Repeat 3 through 5 for all buttons.
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Evaluation
Specification
#10 minimum
Release/
Revision
44
Apparatus
A. FTIR spectrophotometer
B. Analytical heating oven
C. Xenon-arc lamp fading apparatus (Fade-O-Meter or
Weather-O-Meter)
Procedure
Action
Twenty-five (25) individual round stickers or twelve
(12) long tape stickers (minimum of 12 long stickers
per color)
As the color effects of the stickers are directly related
to the actual finish and dyestuff used, the actual
fabrics or garments which are to be used should be
submitted.
Attach the stickers onto the fabrics (or onto the
packaging material which the garments are wrapped
in, if applicable) under a constant pressure of 10 lbs.
rolling pressure.
Effects of Heat
Heat the oven until it is stabilized at a
temperature of 1202F.
Place the prepared samples in the oven for 300
hours.
45
Effects of Light
Set the Fade-O-Meter or Weather-O-Meter
operating conditions.
After the test apparatus calibration is verified,
place the prepared specimens in the rack of
the machine.
Evaluation
Specification
Release/
Revision
46
A. To test Juicy Couture apparel metal trims (Copper/ Zinc Alloy) for
its resistance to Leather and wool materials in a hot and humid
environment.
Apparatus
Procedure
Evaluation
Action
Wrap a sample with a piece of 100% non-dyed wool.
Place the wrapped sample into oven at 135 degrees
Fahrenheit and 98% relative humidity
Check hardware after 24 and 48 hours of exposure.
Specification
A.
No Change
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