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Tuesday, February 28, 2012

Making Process Of Polo-shirt. (2nd part)

Learn Apparel Merchandising, Learn Fashion design.
After receive all the raw materials.

7th Step
Sewing Section: As in our following this style has no print & embroidery so the cut fabric
will be go to input section directly. Merchandiser should sit for a PP meeting with production
department with the approved trim card, PP sample, Accessories in house report. Production
department should discuss with planning department for production target.
a) Placket Making: Production supervisor will made the placket by the help of sewing operator. At first
they will fused the fabric with interlining in fusing machine. After that, they will cut the fabric by use
of the pattern of placket. After that, they will marked the placket fabric & stitch with a plain machine.

b) Pocket Joint: In between of the placket making we will attached the pocket with body by use of a

plain machine. Regarding the pocket please be careful about placement of pocket. Sometimes sewing
operator sew it slanted & wrong position.

c) Placket Make & Joint : After making the placket & joint the pocket with body, the body has goes to
next plain machine operator to attached the placket with body. Here normally we used two plain
machine.

d) Shoulder Joint: After the placket joint we joint the shoulder (front & back part) by use of a over
lock machine.

e) Shoulder Top Stitch: After shoulder joint we put a top stitch over the shoulder by use of another
plain machine.

f) Collar tack & Joint : After the shoulder top stitch at first we tack the collar by use a plain machine
then we join the collar with body by use of a over lock machine.

g) Back tape joint: After collar joint we joint the back tape in the flat lock machine by used of folder.

h) Placket Top stitch: After back tap joint we put placket top stitch by use two plain machine.

i) Placket Box: After the top stitch of placket we make the placket box by use of plain machine.

j) Main/size label attachment: After the placket box making we attached the main/size label inside
the back tape by use of plain machine.

k) Sleeve rolling/ sleeve hem: In the mean time we roll the or hem the sleeve with flat lock machine.
l) Sleeve joint: Now we will joint the sleeve with body by use of over lock machine.

m) Side seam joint: After these operations we joint the both side seam of body & sleeve by use of over
lock machine. We also attached the care label in between this operations.

n) Bottom hem: After the side seam joint we hem the bottom by use of a flat lock machine.

o) Sleeve (opening)Tack: After these process we put a tack in sleeve opening.

p) Button Hole: Then we make hole on the placket by use of button hole machine. In this regards
please note that button hole will be little bit smaller then the button dia (ligne). Also be noted top
button hole will be horizontal where as the others button hole will be vertical. However, you should
confirmed it with your buyer.
q) Button Stitch: After button hole we will be attached the button with placket by use of button stitch
machine. Please note that, many time buyer asked for extra button. If needed then we will also
stitched a button with the body.
Regards
Bipul
Read my next post regarding Finishing section.
You might also like:

Making Process Of Polo-shirt. (1st part)

POLO SHIRT (STANDARD SIZE SPEC)

Making process of a Sweater

Price Break Down For Polo Shirt

Linkwithin

Posted by Enamul Haque Bipul at 4:33 PM

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Labels: polo shirt making, sewing process
Location: DOHS Baridhara, Dhaka, Bangladesh

Making Process Of Polo-shirt. (1st part)

Learn Apparel Merchandising, Learn Fashion design.
Dear All,
Today we will learn how a garments factory make a polo shirt. Here you will see some video of some
special process. However, I will also try to describe you all the points in details.

Details of the style

Item: Men's Polo shirt
Fabrication: 100% cotton, Single Jersey, 160/170 gsm,

Flat knit collar

Pocket at front left chest.

02 (two logo button with pearl plastic quality, 20 ligne)

1st Step
Prepare the fabric booking : After approval of fit sample & received the final PO sheet from buyer,
pattern/cutting section will make a correct pattern set of all the sizes. In middle class factory normally
merchandiser do the consumption with the help of cutting master after placed the pattern of
on marker paper. In this regards please always remember one thing if the orders qty is with size wise
ratio then you must consider it during the making marker with pattern. I will discuss more details
regarding the marker in near future. After get the consumption & dia confirmations merchandiser will
booked the fabric and hand over the color & construction wise fabric break up sheet to fabric
department. During this merchandiser should provide them all the lab dip approval with other
instructions. Please also booked the collar & cuff.
2nd Step
Prepare the Accessories booking: In same time of booking the fabric merchandiser also should booked
the accessories. Merchandiser should ensue that, the store will receive all the sewing
accessories before in house of the the fabric. Sewing accessories means - Sewing thread, main/size
label, care label, tape etc. Merchandiser should always follow up the sewing production because when
a minimum qty will be output he should try to book the finishing accessories like as - Poly, Carton etc.
Before booked the poly & back board he must confirm the folding way with buyer. Also merchandiser
should take approval of shipping mark, sticker & carton quality from his buyer. Some others accessories
like as - hang tag, hang tag string, thinner, spot lifter, inter lining, he must booked these at the same
time of fabric booking. After received these trims he should make a trim card and distribute to all the
sections. Store department should count & check the quality of all the accessories before start sewing
production and also provide a inventory report to merchandiser.
3rd Step
Production planning: After placing all the booking he should discuss with the planning for a production
planning. Maximum middle class factory do not follow this procedure.
4th Step
Quality check of fabric: After receive the fabric from dyeing the fabric Q.C department will check the
color shade, Gsm, dia, shrinkage, twisting etc and acknowledged the merchandiser accordingly. The
fabric q.c team will also check the count the collar & check the others quality. A middle class factory
need a strong quality team for fabric because normally they do the dyeing in others factory.
5th Step
Fabric Cutting: After receive the green signal from fabric q.c team and merchandiser, cutting section
will be start trial cutting at first. At the same time cutting section will check the consumption again in
real fabric. They will confirm to the merchandiser that how pcs they can be able to cut from the
received fabric. It is very important because some time we need extra fabric due to the increased of
fabric GSM. Merchandiser should re booked the short qty fabric if needed.
6th Step
Size set & PP sample: After received the bulk fabric production section will make size set sample and
check the measurement & shrinkage of fabric. After checking the size set sample they will adjust the
pattern and will be make a pre production sample for buyer approval. During the size set sample

production department will setup the line layout. Step 5th & 6th will be done at the same time.
Regards
Bipul
Read my next post regarding Sewing process.
You might also like:

Making Process Of Polo-shirt. (2nd part)

POLO SHIRT (STANDARD SIZE SPEC)

Price Break Down For Polo Shirt

MERCHANDISING PROCEDURES (Part 01)

Linkwithin

Posted by Enamul Haque Bipul at 4:00 PM

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Labels: polo shirt, sewing process
Location: DOHS Baridhara, Dhaka, Bangladesh

Saturday, February 25, 2012

Machine Wise Sewing Operation (knit Items)

Learn Apparel Merchandising, Learn Fashion Design.

Some Common Machine wise Sewing Operations.

From my this post you will got a common list of sewing

operations based on knitted items.

Plain Machine
1.
Placket Rolling
2.
Placket Box
3.
Nose Tack
4.
Neck Tack
5.
Sleeve Tack
6.
Neck Rib Tack
7.
Collar Top Stitch
8.
Neck Top Stitch
9.
Pocket Join
10.
Side Band Top Stitch
11.
Label Join.

Over Lcok Machine

1.
Shoulder Join
2.
Sleeve Join
3.
Side Seam
4.
Neck Join

Flat Lcok Machine

1.
Shoulder Top Stitch
2.
Armhole Top Stitch
3.
Neck Top Stitch
4.
Sleeve Rolling
5.
Bottom Hemming

Please be informed that, the above list is not a complete list.

Regards
Bipul
You might also like:

Industrial Sewing Machine Classifications

List of some common Sewing stitch (ISO Stitch Terminology)

Making Process Of Polo-shirt. (2nd part)

Machine Wise Sewing Thread Consumption PER Inch

Linkwithin

Posted by Enamul Haque Bipul at 1:13 AM

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Labels: Sewing Operations

Thursday, February 23, 2012

Some Common Fabric (Knit) Problem

Learn Apparel Merchandising, Learn Fashion design.
Dear All,
During the production of a knitted items, our first step is producing the fabric. Fabric producing means
Knit the yarn with knitting machine to make the specific fabric in grey form. Then we dye the grey
fabric in our require color in dyeing section.
Actually fabric producing is the main & most important step for a knit items. In the fabric producing
section very often we get many kinds of problem. Please find below some common problem of them -

Common Problem of Fabric (Knitting & Dyeing)

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.

Shade Variations.
Color Spot
Creased Mark
Soil Mark
Running Shade
Dia Problem
GSM Problem
Shrinkage Problem

9.
Twisting
10.
Fabric Hole
11.
Sat-up
12.
Slab Yarn
13.
Foreign Yarn
14.
Oil Spot
15.
Needle Mark / Ass Mark
16.
Sinker Mark
17.
Squeezer Mark.
18.
Pat-ta
19.
Naps
20.
Dead Fiber
These above problem can be raise from knitting, as well as from dyeing also. Such as - Creased Mark: If
we use mix needle in the knitting machine then we will found this problem, also if we take long time
before start squeezer or take long time in the dyeing winch than normal period then creased mark may
arise.
Also if the fabric stay in the winch at idle position of the machine or stop the machine for
power failure or any other reason then Running shade can be arise. Others hands the poor scouring is
caused of running shade.
Please note that, very soon I will try to describe briefly the above problem with picture.
Thanks & best regards
Bipul
You might also like:

DIFFERENT DYEING MACHINES

Details of dyeing.

Defect Classification - During Inspection (Fabric Defects)

Defect Classification - During Final/Inline Inspection (Stitching Defects)

Linkwithin

Posted by Enamul Haque Bipul at 1:05 AM

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Labels: dyeing problem
Location: Airport Dakshinkhan Rd, Dhaka, Bangladesh

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

Short details of Trims list.

Learn Apparel Merchandising, Learn Fashion design.

Dear All,

We know the main and most important things of a

garments are fabric. Correct fabric booking is very
important for apparel merchandiser. Print & embroidery

are also very important for garments. However, except

these items we also use so many items in garments.
Today I will describe you a short details of these
important items. This is also very important for apparel
merchandising.
Trims: During the making and exporting process of a
garment we use many kinds of items other then Fabric,
Print & Embroidery. We called these items as trims. Trims
cover all the items used in the garment except the basic
fabric. There are hundreds of items used to manufacture
the garments, Proper selection of trims and its quality
are very important for styling, otherwise the garment
may be rejected or returned by the customers.
Please find below a short list that covers some names of
the trims:
1. Sewing thread: The main & most common trims are
sewing thread. Normally buyer asked the matching color
sewing thread. In garments production normally we used
100% spun polyester thread, 100% cotton thread,
Filament thread etc. The polyester thread shade is color
fastness. Tensile strength. Elasticity, Shrinkage, Moisture
Regain, abrasion, Resistance etc these are some quality
of sewing thread. 50/2 is the most common count sewing
thread normally we use it in T-shirt. 40/2 & 40/3 count
sewing thread is also available in market. Normally we
use these thicker thread in heavy garment like as sweat
shirt, jacket, trouser etc. The price of 40/2 yarn is higher
than 50/2.

2. Zipper: From the zipper factory we can get various

kind of zipper. We can categorize the zipper by following
points as mentioned below
a) Teeth: Nylon teeth, Vislone teeth, Metal teeth etc.
b) Color: Tape color, Teeth color.
c) Size: #3, #5 & #8 etc.
d) Function: Auto lock, Semi auto lock, Hidden zipper,
reversible, Open end (O/E), Close End (C/E) etc.
e) Length: As per requirement 18 cm, 66 cm etc.
3. LABELS: Main, Size, Care (Polyester care label & Nylon
or paper care label), Content, price, patch etc
4. BUTTON : Pearl plastic button, 02 hole button, 03 hole
button, 04 hole button, custom button shape, Horn
button, Shang button, Metal button, logo button, non
logo button etc.

5. ELASTIC : Cotton elastic, Polyester elastic, 400 denier,

700 denier, 1 cm width, 1.5 cm width, 3 cm width etc.
6. EYELET : Antique, Matching color, Matt silver, Antique
Silver, 22 mm dia, with logo or w/o logo, emboss logo,
engraved logo etc.
7. SNAP BUTTON: Snap button, press button, 4 part snap
button, male part of snap button, female part of snap
button, antic color, Silver color, matching color.
8. VELCRO : Hook & Pile, Matching color.
9. STRING/CORD : Cotton, Polyester etc.
10. PLASTIC CLIP
11. Tag pin: Clr White, black, transparent, 3 cm, 6 cm,
8 cm, 12 cm etc.
12. TAGS : Price tag, Hand Tag, Brand Tag etc.
13. STICKER : Hook & Pile etc.
14. HANGER: BDS hanger, t-hanger, 28 cm, 34 cm,
Transparent, Semi transparent, Solid color etc.
15. Hanger size ring: Size ring of hanger, Size print etc.
16. POLYBAG (0.80 mm) : Strength : Chemical Mixture.
Thickness (micron/mm: 1mm = 1000 micron) Elasticity

Transparent, LDPE (Low Density Poly Ethylene), PP (Poly

Propylene), Adhesive, with hole, warning, size, recycle
logo etc.
17. BLISTER BAG (.05 mm): Loaded capacity is higher
than polybag
18. SCOTCH TAPE
19. GUMTAPE: With logo print, none logo, Khaki color,
transparent color.
20. CARTON: 3ply, 5ply, Size (L,W. H), gum pasting, PP
belt, metal stitching, divider, bottom, shipping mark etc.
21. Interlining : Crash lining, soft lining, Hard lining etc.
22. Silica: For controlling the moisture in the carton.
23. Shoulder tape: Cotton, Polyester etc.
Above list just for a Idea not a complete list. There are
so many items are still remain. I will try to describe more
details regarding the above items very soon.
Regards
Bipul
You might also like:

Costing tips for the knit Items.

Complete Textile Glossery (M to N)

Complete Textile Glossery (C to D)

Complete Textile Glossery (E to F)

Linkwithin

Posted by Enamul Haque Bipul at 4:11 AM

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Labels: trims