Determination of Depth of Closure Along Kelantan Coast

DETERMINATION OF DEPTHS OF CLOSURE
ALONG THE KELANTAN COAST
NOR HISHAM BIN MOHD. GHAZALI
UNIVERSITI TEKNOLOGI MALAYSIA
ii
iii
iv

ALONG THE KELANTAN COAST
NOR HISHAM BIN MOHD. GHAZALI
A thesis submitted in fulfillment of the

requirements for the award of the degree of
Master of Engineering (Coastal and Maritime)
Faculty of Civil Engineering

Universiti Teknologi Malaysia
FEBRUARY 2007
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In the name of Allah, the Compassionate, the Merciful

Dedicated to my loving wife Noriah Abu Bakar for sharing my life and
dreams, to my father and my mother for their relentless faith in me, and my sons
Hazim, Nadim and Aqil Zuhair for their unconditional love.
iv
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
All praise be to Allah the Merciful, the Benevolent to Whom all will return
and Whose knowledge is infinite, eternal.
I would like to first thank my supervisor Associate Professor Dr. Ahmad
Khairi Bin Abd Wahab whose guidance, counsel and support were critical to the
direction, focus and completion of this thesis.
I am indebted to my employer the Department of Irrigation and Drainage
Malaysia and the Public Services Department Malaysia for providing me the
opportunity and the financial means to pursue this study, and especially to Ir. Tan
King Seng, Director of Coastal Engineering Division for his personal and professional
support.
My thanks extend to Khairol Azuan Bin Adam of the National Hydraulic
Institute of Malaysia for his assistance, comments and advice on numerical modelling
and the staff of the Coastal Engineering Division, Department of Irrigation and
Drainage Malaysia for their immense support.
And not in the least, my deepest and eternal gratitude to my wife Noriah
Binti Abu Bakar whose strength, love and encouragement were beacons in all my
pursuits.
ABSTRACT
The design of beach-fill in beach nourishment works requires knowledge of the

cross-shore sediment transport process. By the theory of equilibrium profiles, beachfill material will be redistributed across the shore profile up to a seaward limit known
as the depth of closure or Dc.
The determination of the depth of closure is a key
component of beach-fill design and is measured in the field from the study of
periodical surveys over the same beach profiles. The Hallermeier equation which
relies on the incident pre-breaking wave height is the only analytical means to predict
the depth of closure. This study has examined the applicability of the Hallermeier
equation in predicting depth of closure for the coastline of Pantai Sabak, Kelantan
using nearshore waves which were transformed from offshore waves through
numerical modelling. The predicted depth of closure was compared against measured
depth of closure at 13 profiles that were surveyed in 1998, 1999, 2000 and 2004. The
widely-accepted Standard Deviation of Depth Change (SDDC) and Fixed Depth
Change (FDC) methods to determine Dc were both explored and the Dc for monsoon,
annual and 5-year events were investigated. The research found that along the study
shoreline at Pantai Sabak, more than one closure point can occur across the same
profile over the seasonal and annual period. Hallermeiers equation overpredicts
annual Dc by 43% and affirms previous findings that the predictive equation
determines an upper limit value of Dc. Within the limitations of the survey data
available, the annual depth of closure at Pantai Sabak can be equated to 1.5 times
H0.137.
vi
ABSTRAK
Pengetahuan mengenai proses pergerakan ampaian rentas pantai adalah

penting dalam kerja-kerja merekabentuk penambakan pasir pantai. Berpandukan teori
keseimbangan profil, pasir penambakan dijangka akan diangkut dan diendapkan ke
seluruh profil pantai sehingga satu lokasi kedalaman yang dinamakan kedalaman
tertutup atau Dc. Penentuan kedalaman tertutup merupakan salah satu komponen
penting dalam rekabentuk penambakan pasir dan ianya diperolehi melalui kajian ke
atas data ukur bersiri yang diperolehi daripada profil-profil pantai yang sama.
Persamaan Hallermeier yang bergantung kepada keadaan ombak sebelum pecah
merupakan satu-satunya kaedah analitikal yang ada untuk menentukan kedalaman
tertutup.
Kajian ini telah menguji kesesuaian persamaan Hallermeier ini dalam
meramalkan kedalaman tertutup bagi Pantai Sabak, Kelantan dengan menggunakan

ketinggian ombak di kawasan dekat pantai yang diperolehi melalui permodelan
numerikal yang berasaskan ombak lepas pantai.
Kedalaman tertutup yang dikira
dengan menggunakan persamaan Hallermeier telah dibandingkan dengan kedalaman

tertutup yang dianalisa di 13 profil pantai yang diukur dalam tahun 1998, 1999, 2000
and 2004.
Kaedah Persisihan Piawai Perubahan Kedalaman dan Perubahan
Kedalaman Tetap telah digunakan untuk menentukan Dc bagi keadaan tengkujuh atau
monsun timur-laut, tempoh tahunan dan untuk tempoh 5 tahun. Penyiasatan ini telah
mendapati bahawa lebih daripada satu kedalaman tertutup boleh wujud dalam profil
yang sama.
Ramalan Dc tahunan dengan menggunakan Persamaan Hallermeier
didapati tinggi dengan lebihan purata 43% dan ini mengesahkan hasil kajian-kajian
terdahulu yang menyatakan bahawa persamaan ini boleh menentukan nilai had teratas
untuk Dc. Tertakluk kepada data ukur yang terhad di Pantai Sabak, kedalaman tertutup
tahunan boleh disamakan dengan 1.5 kali ketinggian ombak H0.137.
vii
TABLE OF CONTENTS
CHAPTER
TITLE
DECLARATION
ii
DEDICATION
iii
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
iv
ABSTRACT
ABSTRAK
vi
TABLE OF CONTENTS
vii
LIST OF TABLES
xii
LIST OF FIGURES
xiv
LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS
xix
LIST OF SYMBOLS
xx
LIST OF APPENDICES
PAGE
INTRODUCTION
xxii
1.1
Introduction
1.2
Background of the Problem
1.2.1 Erosion Control and Beach Nourishment in Malaysia
1.2.2 Study Shoreline
1.2.3
Beach Nourishment Design and Depths of Closure
1.3
Objectives of the Study
1.4
Benefits of the Study
LITERATURE REVIEW
2.1
Introduction
2.2
Cross-shore Sediment Transport and Equilibrium
8
8
Beach Profiles
2.3
Definition of Depth of Closure
2.4
Methods of Determination
12
2.4.1
Predictive Methods
12
2.4.2
Depth of Closure from Profile Surveys
15
2.4.3
Depth Change Criterion
16
2.5
Application of Depth of Closure
18
2.6
Depth of Closure Malaysian Context
19
2.7
Summary
21
RESEARCH METHODOLOGY
23
3.1
Introduction
23
3.2
Scope of the Research
24
3.3
Research Methodology
27
3.3.1 Data Sets
27
3.3.2
Primary Data Collection
28
3.3.3
Numerical Modelling
29
3.3.4
Analysis
30
3.4
3.3.5 Depths of Closure from Beach Profile Data
30
3.3.6
31
Depth of Closure from Empirical Formulae
Summary
FIELD DATA ANALYSIS
31
33
4.1
Introduction
33
4.2
Study Area
34
4.3
Environmental and Climatic Conditions
35
4.4
Data Sets
36
4.5
Beach Profile Survey
36
4.5.1
37
Survey #1 - 1998
ix
4.5.2
Survey #2 - 1999
37
4.5.3
Survey #3 - 2000
38
4.5.4
Survey #4 - 2004
38
4.5.5 Survey Data Selection
38
4.5.6
42
Survey Data Filtering
4.6
Sediment Data
42
4.7
Wave
44
4.7.1
UKMO Design Wave Analysis
45
4.7.2
Measured Waves
50
4.8
Tidal Heights
52
4.9
Wind
54
4.10
Summary
55
NUMERICAL MODELLING
57
5.1
Introduction
57
5.2
Model Description
57
5.3
Numerical Modelling
59
5.3.1
Model Area and Orientation
59
5.3.2
Wave Breaking Conditions
59
5.4
5.3.3 Calibration
61
5.3.4
66
Prediction of Nearshore Waves from Wave Model
Summary
77
79
6.1
Introduction
79
6.2
Depth of Closure Scope and Criteria
80
6.2.1
Definition
80
6.2.2
Algorithm for Determination of Dc from Profile Surveys
81
6.3
Predicted Depth of Closure, Dl,t
84
6.4
Monsoon Dc (1998-1999 surveys)
84
6.5
6.4.1
Profile Descriptions and Application of Algorithm
84
6.4.2
Monsoon Dc at Ch.3100 and Ch.2700
84
6.4.3
Monsoon Dc at Ch.2300 and Ch.1900
87
6.4.4
Monsoon Dc at Ch.1500, Ch.1200 and Ch.800
88
6.4.5
Monsoon Dc at Ch.400, Ch.200 and Ch.00
91
6.4.6
Monsoon Dc at Ch.-400, Ch.-900 and Ch.-1400
95
6.4.7
Summary for Monsoon Dc
97
Annual Dc (1999-2000)
100
6.5.1
Profile Description and Application of Algorithm
100
6.5.2
Annual Dc at Ch.3100
101
6.5.3
102
6.5.4
103
6.5.5
104
6.5.6
Annual Dc at Ch.800
105
6.5.7
Annual Dc at Ch.400
106
6.5.8
Annual Dc at Ch.200
107
6.5.9
Annual Dc at Ch.00
108
6.5.10 Annual Dc at Ch-400, Ch.-900 and Ch.-1400
109
6.6
Summary for Annual Dc (1999-2000)
111
6.7
Time-interval Dc (1999-2004)
113
6.7.1
Profile Description and Application of Algorithm
113
6.7.2
Five-year Dc at Ch.3100
114
6.7.3
115
6.7.4
116
6.7.5
117
6.7.6
118
6.7.7
119
6.7.8
120
6.7.9
121
6.7.10 Five-year Dc at Ch.-400, Ch.-900 and Ch.-1400
122
6.8
Summary of 5-year Dc (1999, 2000 and 2004)
124
6.9
Comparison of Event and Time-Interval Dc
126
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6.10
Measured Dc vs. Hallermeiers Equation
127
6.11
Simplified Dc Equations
129
6.12
Observation
131
CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS
133
7.1
General Conclusions
133
7.2
Suggestions for Future Research
135
7.2.1
Dc Criteria and Survey Techniques
135
7.2.2
Wave Data
135
7.2.3 Profile Surveys and Bar Migration Phenomena
136
7.2.4
136
Determining a predictive formula for local Dc
REFERENCES
APPENDICES A - E
138
142-174
xii
LIST OF TABLES
TABLE NO.
TITLE
PAGE
4.1
Profile Survey Data Register
40
4.2
Starting And Ending Points Of Selected Survey Dataset

(13 profile lines) off Pantai Sabak, Kelantan
41
4.3
Statistics of UKMO Wave Dataset
47
4.4
Tidal Levels Along Study Shoreline (meters, LSD)
53
4.6
Mean High Water (meters, LSD)
53
4.7
Difference between MSL and MLW at Study Coastline
54
4.8
Difference between MSL and MHW at Study Coastline
54
5.1
Results of Wave Model Calibration
63
5.2
Location of Offshore Points in Model Grid for Extraction

of Wave Parameters
Predicted Wave Heights At 10 M Depth Based On Offshore
wave of H0.137 = 2.9 m and Tm = 6.3 secs
74
Predicted Wave Heights at 10 m depth Based On Offshore

Wave of H0.027 = 3.13 m and Tm = 6.54 secs
75
6.1
Depths of Closure (SDDC) for Monsoon Event 1998-1999
99
6.2
Depths of Closure (FDC) for Monsoon Event 1998-1999
99
6.3
Annual Dc (May 1999 May 2000)
111
6.4
Five-year Dc (1999, 2000, 2004 surveys) for beach-fill

design
125
5.3
5.4
67
6.5
Outer Closure Depths Dco (MLW) from Profile Plots
127
6.6
Effective Dc and Predicted depth of closure, Dl,t , MLW
128
6.7
Dc from simplified equations compared with effective Dc
130
6.8
Dc from simplified equation compared to Dco
130
xiv
LIST OF FIGURES
NO.
1.1
TITLE
PAGE
Study Area - 4.5 km of Shoreline From Pantai Dasar Sabak

to South of Kg. K.S.P. Besar (Sungai Pengkalan Datu)
Evolution of Beach-fill based on Theory of Equilibrium

Profile
Zonation Of Seasonal Beach Profile (Hallermeier 1978,

1981); extracted from Rijkswaterstaat (1987)
10
3.1
Research Model
26
4.1
Location of Study Area
34
4.2
Close-up of Study Area from Kg. Pantai Dasar Sabak

to Kg. Senok
35
4.3
Profile Lines At The Study Area
39
4.4
Distribution of sediments along Pantai Sabak 1998, 1999

and 2004 (d50 averaged across all chainages)
43
Distribution of bed sediments along Pantai Sabak 1998-1999.

Negative chainages are south of the breakwater
43
4.6
Distribution of bed sediments along Pantai Sabak 2004
44
4.7
Location of Wavebuoy And UKMO Wavedata Source

Relative to Kelantan Coast.
45
Offshore Significant Wave Heights at 6.39N 102.92E;

28/05/1999 30/07/2004
46
4.9
Histogram of UKMO Waves
47
4.10
Wave Height vs. Wave Period for UKMO Offshore

Wave Records 1999 to 2004
48
1.2
2.1
4.5
4.8
xv
4.11
H0.137 Wave from 1999-2000 UKMO Wave Data
49
4.12
H0.027 Wave from 1999-2004 UKMO Wave Data
50
4.13
Wave Buoy Measurements at E19236.3 N33957

(Kelantan Cassini) off Pantai Sabak, Kelantan Coast;
30 June to 13 July 2004.
51
Comparison of Offshore (UKMO Data) and Nearshore

Waves Measured at the -12 m LSD Contour
51
Location Of Water Level, Current and Wave Stations At

Study Area.
52
Wind Rose for UKMO Offshore Wind Data (20 m Above

MSL)
55
Orientation of rectangle model layout for the input

(offshore) wave approach conditions N330o, N0o, N30o,
N60o, N90o and N120o
58
Sensitivity of kN parameter and location of breaking wave

based on waves in July
62
Water level measurements at Pantai Sabak during calibration

period
64
Wave Model Calibration Wave Heights (for offshore waves

from 0 to 120 degrees)
64
Wave Model Calibration Wave Directions (for offshore

waves from 0 to 120 degrees)
65
5.6
Location of extraction points in wave model
67
5.7
Wave Refraction Diagram; H0.137 = 2.9, Tm = 6.3 sec;

North approach.
68
Wave Refraction Diagram; H0.137 = 2.9, Tm = 6.3 secs;

N30o approach.
69
Wave Refraction Diagram; H0.137 = 2.9 m, Tm = 6.3 secs;

N60o approach.
69

N90o approach.
70

N120o approach.
70
4.14
4.15
4.16
5.1
5.2
5.3
5.4
5.5
5.8
5.9
5.10
5.11
xvi
5.12

North approach.
71

N30o approach.
71

N60o approach.
72

N90o approach.
72

N120o approach.
73
Predicted Maximum Wave Heights at 10-m depth ACD

contour along Pantai Sabak, Kelantan.
76
Predicted Wave Heights at 10-m depth (ACD) contour along

Pantai Sabak, Kelantan averaged over all directions
77
6.1
Monsoon Dc at Ch.3100
85
6.2
86
6.3
87
6.4
88
6.5
89
6.6
90
6.7
91
6.8
92
6.9
93
6.10
Monsoon Dc at Ch.00
94
6.11
Monsoon Dc at Ch.-400
95
6.12
Monsoon Dc at Ch.-900 (slope 1:400)
96
6.13
Monsoon Dc at Ch.-1400; closure is not defined with

SDDC method at Ch.-1400
97
5.13
5.14
5.15
5.16
5.17
5.18
xvii
6.14
Comparison of SDDC and FDC methods in determining

Monsoon Dc
100
6.15
101
6.16
102
6.17
103
6.18
104
6.19
Annual Dc at Ch.800
105
6.20
Annual Dc at Ch.400
106
6.21
Annual Dc at Ch.200
107
6.22
Annual Dc at Ch.00
108
6.23
Annual Dc at Ch.-400
109
6.24
Annual Dc at Ch. -900
110
6.25
Annual Dc at Ch.-1400
110
6.26
Radar Graph - Comparison between Dl,1-yr and

measured Annual Dc
112
Variation in Dl,1-yr and measured Annual Dc along

the study area
112
5-year Dc at Ch.3100 - Comparison of SDDC and mean

of FDC between consecutive surveys at Ch.3100
114
6.29
5-year Dc at Ch.2700
115
6.30
116
6.31
117
6.32
5-year Dc at Ch.800
118
6.33
5-year Dc at Ch.400; three closure points were detected
119
6.34
5-year Dc at Ch.200
120
6.35
5-year Dc at Ch.00
121
6.36
5-year Dc at Ch.-400
122
6.27
6.28
xviii
6.37
123
6.38
123
6.39
Comparison of 5-year Dc (effective Dc for beach-fill

design), Dco (outermost Dc) and Dl,5-yr
125
Variation in 5-year Dc (effective Dc for beach-fill design),

Dco (outermost Dc) and Dl,5-yr across the study area
126
6.41
Dc along Pantai Sabak, Kelantan
129
6.42
Dc based on different closure criteria
132
6.40
xix
LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS
CED
Coastal Engineering Division
CEM
Coastal Engineering Manual
cm
centimeter
DHI
Danish Hydraulic Institute
DID
Department of Irrigation and Drainage Malaysia
DSMM
Department of Survey and Mapping Malaysia
HAT
Highest Astronomical Tide
Kg.
Kampung; village (malay)
LAT
Lowest Astronomical Tide
LSD
Land Survey Datum
meter
mm
millimeter
MSL
Mean Sea Level
MHW
Mean High Water
MHHW
Mean Higher High Water
MLHW
Mean Lower High Water
MLW
Mean Low Water
MHLW
Mean Higher Low Water
MLLW
Mean Lower Low Water
Sg.
Sungai; river (malay)
SSMO
Synoptic Shipboard Meteorological Observation
UKMO
United Kingdom Meteorological Office
xx
LIST OF SYMBOLS
Dc
depth of closure
Dc,1-yr
depth of closure over 1 year
Dc,5-yr
depth of closure over 5 years
Dci
depth of closure, innershore; from profile survey
Dcm
depth of closure, middleshore; from profile survey
Dco
depth of closure, outershore; from profile survey
Dl
predicted depth of closure; water depth at the seaward limit of

significant sediment transport
Dl,t
predicted depth of closure over t years
Dl,1-yr
predicted depth of closure over 1 year
Dl,5-yr
predicted depth of closure over 5 years
water depth
di
lower limit of the shoal zone
dl
lower limit of the littoral zone
d50
size of material of which 50% is finer
acceleration due to gravity
predicted depth of closure (Birkemeier's equation)
hc
predicted depth of closure (Hallermeier's equation)
Hm0
energy-based wave height of the zeroth moment
Hs
significant wave height
Hs50
median annual significant wave height
Hl,t
significant wave height exceeded 12 hours over t years
H0.137
significant wave height exceeded 12 hours in a year
H0.027
significant wave height exceeded 12 hours in t = 5 years
He,t
non-breaking significant wave height that is exceeded 12 hours per t

years or (100/730t) % of the time
kN
Nikuradse's roughness parameter
xxi
standard deviation
time
wave period associated with a particular wave height
Te, t
wave period corresponding to He,t
Tm
mean wave period
Tp
peak wave period
Ub
maximum horizontal wave-induced near-bed velocity
xi
measurement
xm
mean of all measurements
number of measurements
annual standard deviation of significant wave height
sediment entrainment parameter
ratio of the difference in density between sediment and fluid density
wave breaking parameter which controls wave steepness condition
wave breaking parameter which controls limiting water depth

condition
adjustable constant in energy dissipation equation
xxii
LIST OF APPENDICES
APPENDIX
TITLE
Profile Surveys from the coastline of Pantai Sabak, Kelantan

1998, 1999, 2001 and 2004
165
Tidal Data From Pantai Sabak, Kelantan;

2004 Survey
159
Summary of Grain Size Distribution from Pantai Sabak,

Kelantan Surveys 1998, 1999, 2004
142
Description of United Kingdom Meteorological Office

(UKMO) Dataset
PAGE
Model Wave Bathymetry
168
23
INTRODUCTION
1.1
Introduction
Beach nourishment is a preferred coastal protection measure for recreational
beaches. The provision of a wider dry beach, by placing sand on the eroding shore
that extends beyond the existing beach berm, is the main component of a beach
nourishment scheme. A re-nourished beach presents a wider surface area that both
dissipates wave energy impacting on the shoreline and creates more space for
recreational activities. Sand re-nourished beaches remain as a part of the nearshore
coastal system within which sediment can be moved freely by wave and tidal action.
Inherent in the engineering design of beach nourishment is an element of
prediction and projection based on the shoreline change trend of the concerned
beach.
Typical beach nourishment schemes may require annual refill as the
nourished beach is exposed and continuously subjected to environmental forces. In

Malaysia, beach nourishment schemes are expected to last 5 years before renourishment works are initiated again. In this approach, designs are based on a
general rate of erosion for the beach and a five-year re-nourishment interval.
An
important aspect of beach nourishment design is the knowledge of the seaward limit
to which the beach-fill is expected to move. This point is called the depth of
closureand its determination involves the study of the nearshore profile over a period
of time.
24
The beach nourishment projects conducted by the Department of Irrigation

and Drainage Malaysia (DID) in the past did not have the benefit of sufficient
periodical survey data needed to determine the depths of closure.
Hence, the
predictive formula of depth of closure introduced by Hallermeier (Hallermeier,

1981) and its simplified forms (US Army Corps Of Engineers, 1984) have been
widely used. Since the completion of the beach nourishment projects, periodical
monitoring surveys have been conducted on selected re-nourished shorelines. The
situation now presents opportunities for further study and analysis of the depths of
closure with the view of improving the design of sand-fill in beach nourishment for
local conditions. This research determines and studies the depths of closure from
periodical surveys of a stretch of shoreline in Kelantan and examines the
applicability of existing predictive equations to the Kelantan shoreline.
1.2
Background of the Problem
1.2.1
Erosion Control and Beach Nourishment in Malaysia

The National Coastal Erosion Study (Unit Perancang Ekonomi, 1985)
determined that approximately 30% of Malaysias 4,809 km of coastline was

eroding. It proceeded to recommend immediate coastal erosion protection measures
on critical sites and led to the development of the Coastal Erosion Control Program
under the DID.
Under this program, revetment-type protection and beach
nourishment schemes were constructed along Malaysias eroding coasts beginning in

the late eighties. Among the major beach nourishment projects implemented by the
Government of Malaysia under this program were:
(i)
Kuala Terengganu to Kuala Ibai, Terengganu (1993);
(ii)
Taman Robina, Seberang Perai Utara, Pulau Pinang (1994);
25
(iii)
Pantai Kundur, Melaka (1995)
(iv)
Batu 4, Port Dickson, Negeri Sembilan (1996 and 2005) and;
(v)
Kg. Teritam to Kuala Sungai Pengkalan Datu, Kelantan (1997)
Since the emergence of tourism as a dominant sector of the Malaysian

economy, the need to preserve the quality and aesthetics of public beaches have
become an important agenda under the Coastal Erosion Control Program. Therefore,
the understanding of the evolution of re-nourished beaches must be enhanced so as to
improve future planning and design works.
1.2.2
Study Shoreline
The northeast coastline of Kelantan has been selected for this study due to its
long-term erosion trend. This coastline is oriented along the northwest to southeast
direction. Wind fetch lengths spanning over 1500 km across the South China Sea
influence this stretch of coast. As a result, the long fetch and the predominant
northeasterly winds during the northeast monsoon combine to generate high waves in
the adjacent offshore area (Department of Irrigation and Drainage, 1993).
Furthermore, there are no large islands off the Kelantan coast to offer any cover from
the monsoonal waves.
The study is limited to the coastline from Kg. Pantai Dasar to Kg. S.P. Besar,
Kelantan which is shown in Figure 1.1.
Locally known as Pantai Sabak, this
coastline has experienced erosion at an average rate of exceeding 5 meters per year
(Unit Perancang Ekonomi, 1985).
The situation was later exacerbated by the
construction of a breakwater at Sungai Pengkalan Datu which was completed in 1986

as part of a flood mitigation and agricultural drainage project. The breakwaters
created a terminus to the littoral transport in the area and depleted the supply of
26
sediment to the adjacent shoreline of Pantai Sabak to the northwest. An erosion of

20 meters occurred within 7 months of the completion of the northern arm of the
breakwaters and the completion of the southern arm 10 months after brought about
an additional 60 meters of erosion in the following year (Lee, 1990).
Studies by
Universiti Teknologi Malaysia indicated that minor sediment bypassing of the

Pengkalan Datu breakwaters in the northwest direction had begun within a few years
of its completion (Ahmad Khairi Bin Abdul Wahab, 1989). Nevertheless, this was
insufficient to reduce the erosion rate at Pantai Sabak.
In 1996, the DID implemented a beach nourishment project which laid 1.2
million m3 of sand along a 2.1 km stretch within the study area. The constructed
beach berms ranged from 70 m to 120 m.
Whilst the study and design of the beach
nourishment scheme took into account the reduction in sediment budget due to the
breakwater, nearly 60% of the nourished volume was lost within a single monsoon
(Jabatan Pengairan dan Saliran Malaysia, 2002).
KELANTAN
Study Area
Study area Kelantan,

MALAYSIA
Figure 1.1: Study area - 4.5 km of shoreline from Pantai Dasar Sabak to South of
Kg. K.S.P. Besar (Sungai Pengkalan Datu). (Source: Topo Maps #4068 [1985],
#3968 [1991], Jabatan Ukur dan Pemetaan Malaysia)
27
1.2.3
Beach Nourishment Design and Depths of Closure

The design of a beach nourishment scheme requires the same engineering
parameters as other coastal protection solutions. Apart from the established wave,
wind and tidal conditions, the design criteria for a typical DID beach nourishment
includes:
a nourished beach slope as close as possible to the existing beach

slope;
available funds to provide the widest beach berm possible based on a

pre-determined re-nourishment interval of 5 years;
the availability of suitable sand-fill of grain size d50 greater than the
native beach.
From the Shore Protection Manual (US Army Corps Of Engineers, 1984), the
design approach can be summarised as follows: (i) determination of the beach berm
elevation and width (ii) determination of nourishment volume based on native and
borrow composite material characteristics (iii) determination of post-project beach
evolution.
In practice, a pre-erosion shoreline is determined and the berm width is
overbuilt beyond the pre-erosion shoreline position based on local erosion rates and
the expected interval of re-nourishment. Hence, if the local erosion rate is 5 meters
per year and a re-nourishment is planned after every five years, the berm width will
be built 25 meters beyond the desired shoreline. Artificial beach fills are created
based on a construction cross-section. Over time and due to the action of waves and
tides, the fill material forming the nourished profile of a constructed beach will be
shaped by natural processes into a profile of generally concave upward shape called
an equilibrium profile. This equilibrium profile concept was proposed by Bruun
(1954) with further elaboration by Dean (1977) and is illustrated in Figure 1.2. In
the application of this concept, it is assumed that there is a conservation of sediment
28
Evolved
equilibrium
profile
Original nourished
profile
Original
ground
level
Dc = depth
of closure
Figure 1.2: Evolution of beach-fill based on Theory of Equilibrium Profile
volume across the profile and that a loss of sand volume from the upper profile of the
beach is associated with a similar gain in volume in the lower profile. The seaward
limit for the volume exchange process is the depth of closure.
The depth of closure is effectively, the offshore limit of the active zone
within which a nourished beach adjusts to equilibrium under the prevailing coastal
conditions. Hence, a good estimate of the depth of closure is essential to a good
estimate of the beach fill volume required. With respect to post-nourishment beach
profiles, National Research Council (1995) refers to the depth of closure as a
reference typically used by designers to estimate the limit of profile widening.
These statements further confirm the importance of the depth of closure in beach
nourishment design.
Beach nourishment schemes have been built in Malaysia since 1992 but their
evolution has not been extensively studied. Due to the lack or absence of periodical
surveys then, the depth of closure has typically been predicted from empirical
equations. With regards to this, a comparative study of the predictive and measured
29
depths of closure, in the writers opinion, would contribute to the understanding of

the performance of beach nourishment schemes. In the Malaysian context, such
detailed comparisons have, to date, yet to be done and this dearth of knowledge is the
impetus to this research.
1.3
Objectives of the Study

The purpose of this research is to determine the depths of closure of a 4.5 km
stretch of sandy coast extending from north of Pantai Dasar Sabak to south of the
Sungai Pengkalan Datu in the state of Kelantan. The study will analyse beach profile
surveys, determine the depths of closure and to compare them against predicted
values calculated from the Hallermeier equation.
The research will examine the
validity of this widely accepted equation for the Malaysian condition.
1.4
Benefits of the Study

In general, the study is expected to contribute towards an improved
understanding of cross-shore sediment transport and shore profile changes in the

Malaysian coastal environment. Knowledge of profile trends and depths of closure
will facilitate the design of coastal protection works primarily beach nourishment,
revetments, groynes and breakwaters. It is envisaged that from the results of this
research, engineers will be able to utilise a modified analytical method, specific to
the local conditions, to predict depths of closure with greater confidence for areas
where historical shore profile data is lacking.

Determination of Depth of Closure Along Kelantan Coast

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Determination of Depth of Closure Along Kelantan Coast

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DETERMINATION OF DEPTHS OF CLOSURE

ALONG THE KELANTAN COAST

NOR HISHAM BIN MOHD. GHAZALI

UNIVERSITI TEKNOLOGI MALAYSIA

DETERMINATION OF DEPTHS OF CLOSURE

NOR HISHAM BIN MOHD. GHAZALI

A thesis submitted in fulfillment of the

Faculty of Civil Engineering

In the name of Allah, the Compassionate, the Merciful

The design of beach-fill in beach nourishment works requires knowledge of the

The determination of the depth of closure is a key

Pengetahuan mengenai proses pergerakan ampaian rentas pantai adalah

Kajian ini telah menguji kesesuaian persamaan Hallermeier ini dalam

meramalkan kedalaman tertutup bagi Pantai Sabak, Kelantan dengan menggunakan

Kedalaman tertutup yang dikira

dengan menggunakan persamaan Hallermeier telah dibandingkan dengan kedalaman

Kaedah Persisihan Piawai Perubahan Kedalaman dan Perubahan

Ramalan Dc tahunan dengan menggunakan Persamaan Hallermeier

Background of the Problem

1.2.1 Erosion Control and Beach Nourishment in Malaysia

1.2.2 Study Shoreline

Beach Nourishment Design and Depths of Closure

Objectives of the Study

Benefits of the Study

Cross-shore Sediment Transport and Equilibrium

Definition of Depth of Closure

Depth of Closure from Profile Surveys

Depth Change Criterion

Application of Depth of Closure

Depth of Closure Malaysian Context

Scope of the Research

3.3.1 Data Sets

Primary Data Collection

3.3.5 Depths of Closure from Beach Profile Data

Depth of Closure from Empirical Formulae

FIELD DATA ANALYSIS

Environmental and Climatic Conditions

Beach Profile Survey

4.5.5 Survey Data Selection

Survey Data Filtering

UKMO Design Wave Analysis

Model Area and Orientation

Wave Breaking Conditions

Prediction of Nearshore Waves from Wave Model

DETERMINATION OF DEPTHS OF CLOSURE

Depth of Closure Scope and Criteria

Algorithm for Determination of Dc from Profile Surveys

Predicted Depth of Closure, Dl,t

Monsoon Dc (1998-1999 surveys)

Profile Descriptions and Application of Algorithm

Monsoon Dc at Ch.3100 and Ch.2700

Monsoon Dc at Ch.2300 and Ch.1900

Monsoon Dc at Ch.1500, Ch.1200 and Ch.800

Monsoon Dc at Ch.400, Ch.200 and Ch.00

Monsoon Dc at Ch.-400, Ch.-900 and Ch.-1400

Summary for Monsoon Dc

Profile Description and Application of Algorithm

6.5.10 Annual Dc at Ch-400, Ch.-900 and Ch.-1400

Summary for Annual Dc (1999-2000)

Profile Description and Application of Algorithm

6.7.10 Five-year Dc at Ch.-400, Ch.-900 and Ch.-1400

Summary of 5-year Dc (1999, 2000 and 2004)

Comparison of Event and Time-Interval Dc