White Desert & Kalo Dungar

White desert is the main attraction of Kucha. This is a low depth water
which dries up after November month and creates white desert because
of layer of salt deposit. This white salt gives spectacular view during full
moon day. Tourist can enjoy sunset or sunrise here.
There are many resorts on the way to white desert you can stay minimum
one day here. Enjoy village lifestyle in a peaceful atmosphere.

Entry formalities at check-post at

Bhirandiyara village
This is a Y Junction at a distance of 55 KM from Bhju town. The straight
road from Bhuj goes towards Kalo Dungar and left side road goes towards
Hodka village and white desert ( white Rann ) 30 KM . This is a check post
of Gujarat Police. This place is known as Bhirandiyara This is a Tourist

facilitation center . You have to show your identity proof and pay the
entry fee. Keep one copy of any identity proof of one of the member of
your team. You have to fill your address details against each member
including your driver.
Per head entry fee is Rs 100 /- & Child is Rs 50/Four wheeler entry fee is Rs 50/-

This fee is not included in your cab hire charges. There is no fee to visit
Kalo Dungar and India bridge but any way take the permit if you have
plan to visit White desert. If you have not taken your permit then on
return from Kalo dungar you can collect from this checkpost and proceed
towards white desert.
All resorts are on this road from this Checkpost to White desert, if you
have any plan of visiting white desert ( must visit ) then you must take
this permit. Even if you have booked the resort for night stay then also
take the permit otherwise you will not be allowed to enter into white
desert road.
As per a resort manager many tourist who comes here directly ( without
local guide or local driver ) forget to take permit from checkpost and they
have to travel back 30 KM to collect the same.
All resorts are located before the entry point and beyond that nearly 4 KM
road is constructed upto the last point of the desert.

Entry Checkpost at White desert

Here you have to submit your entry permit and enter details in a register.
On return from White desert you can collect these permits from here.

From here a 4 KM road will take you inside the white runn. Both side of
the road you will see water or white runn depending on the season you
are there. Nearly 2 ft water remains upto Dec or Jan and after that it
became solid white salt and you can walk over it.
Gujarat Tourism organize Rana Utsav every year near the white desert
entry point. Tents are arranged for accommodation of tourists.
Shaam-E-Sarhad the village resort at Hodka is one of the best location to
stay. This resort is half way from the check-post to white desert. From
check post it is located at a distance of 11 KM. From here white desert is
28 KM.

Gateway to Rann Resort at Dhordo

This resort is located at entrance of the white desert. Checkpost is 30 KM
from here.

All resort packages includes breakfast , lunch and dinner. They organize
local folk music in evening hours.
Dont miss sunset and sunrise in this region.
Tourist season continues till March and then closes. All resorts here opens
in 2nd week of October and closes again in March. During hot seasons no
one enters to this erea as heavy sand and wind flows here.

Kalo Dungar view point and India

bridge

Kalo Dungar or black hill is the highest point of Kutch district. A narrow
road climbs up the hill and there is temple of Duttatarya at the top.
Beyond the temple there are two viewpoints give the spectacular view of
white Rann ( or white desert ). These two viewpoints are main attraction
of Kalo dungar.
No accommodation available at Kalo Dungar. Free food is available at the
temple. You may not get any other food nearby areas. There is a small
shop selling water bottles and biscuits.
Before Kaladungar at one location you can experience vehicle going down
with high speed with ignition off. This phenomena was observed by some
tourist during Rann Utsav period. We have also experienced the same
phenomena while our trip to Kalodungar hill .

After visiting Kalo dungar you can climb-down and visit India Bridge. This
bridge is not open for tourist and it is under border security force . On
request you can be allowed to cross the bridge and other side you can
take rest or spend some time discussing with brave Indians guarding our
country. Collect cool drinking water from here.
Before the India bridge both side of the road you can see white Rann or
white desert. This is a spectacular view.
From here return to Check Post by travelling 40 KM. Take a right turn to
travel to White desert. It is time to collect your entry permit to visit white
desert if you have not taken before. Kalo dungar to Bhju is 90 KM
Kalo dungar to White desert is 70 KM

The mystery of Vighakot Joint investigations based on satellite pictures and

archaeological explorations by ISRO and the Gujarat Directorate of archaeology
have revealed a great medieval city comprising two forts and several other things of
great antiquity at a spot call Vighakot, which is just two kms away from the Pakistan
border in the Great Rann of Kutch. Interestingly this site isn't very far from the last
lap of the ancient Saraswati river whose course stands as good as established by
archaeologists. Explorations by joint teams of ISRO and Gujarat archaeology
directorate have found from the spot, copper and silver coins, human skeletons,

ornamemntal stones, real pearls, big-sized bricks, foundations of houses and a

grinding stones. All this things can be found acattered in Vighakot.But more
important is a powerful underground flow of a river/ stream detected along a stretch
at Vighakot. Now using modern techniques the experts are going to find out whether
it is of saline water or of sweet water. If it turns out to be of sweet water than it will
generate immense interest and trigger further investigations.Vighakot is located on
the old route from Kutch to Sindh. It is not very far from the Allahband Dyke, an
earthen dam constrcuted by the Sindhi ruler Ghulamshah Kalhora in the 18th century
with a view to diverting the flow of one of the branches of Indus river. It was a game
on his part to teach a lesson to his rival, the Maharao of Kutch and by this stroke he
permanenly diverted that Indus branch from Kutch. Archaeologists believe Vighakot
has many periods buried under it. The place which is currently a ruined fort-like
structure was destroyed by a huge earthquake in the 17th century when it was a
flourishing place. But archaeologists believe it is also a Indus Valley Civilisation site
which has connection with world-famous site, Dholavira

The journey starts from Bhuj. When you come to Bhirandiyara post, it is at fork where one
road goes to white ran, dhordo and other to India Bridge which is the North most border of IB
with Pakistan. So the Great Rann is divided where the International Boundary divided it into
Indian Rann and Pakistan Rann. When you go towards India Bridge, Khavda is the last
village you see which is 90 km from IB. This is the last place you can buy bottled water and
eatables.
India Bridge is the last point where civilians can go to. As the name implies there is a bridge
on the Rann and then you come across a BSF post. Stopping on the bridge is not allowed and
before crossing the bridge, your vehicle is stopped and the same message is conveyed. Same
rule applies to photography. Thus this post will not have any photos.
I had special permission to go beyond India Bridge, thanks to a family relative. Hence I was
allowed to go to all the way to Vighakot, from where you can see the International Boundary.
Now Vighakot is some 60-70 Km into the India Bridge. My phones were kept in the post.
Also 6 pm is the last deadline was mentioned for us to return to India Bridge.
10km from India Bridge, you see Dharmsala which is a BSF colony. Also there is a war
memorial for soldiers near the colony. Beyond that, there is nothing but Rann on both sides of
the road.
The first effect I saw was of mirage. I could see water at the horizon on both sides of the road
and on the far end of the road. But as I was told later there was no water anywhere, only an
illusion. Many deer too die of this mirage in summers.
We crossed many BOPs ( Border Outposts) on the way and had to sign our names on
registers. Since the person driving the car was local and drove on the rann before, we saw
many tracks on the rann on the sides of road where which seemed to be shortcuts. The drive

on the wild rann was faster than the road. But also the scare was that I dont want to go to
Pakistan in a Swift, or for that matter in anything.
In my Gujarat trip I tried to find and go to many sanctuaries, I failed to see any animal, but
while driving in this Rann, I saw 2-3 deer. This whole Rann from India Bridge to IB is
uninhabited by civilian population and hence the cause of wildlife. The whole place looks
untouched by human effect except for BSF.
I couldnt help notice the excellent infrastructure for the border area. There were good roads,
electricity transmission towers (maybe they plan to electrify the border fences soon).
The place looked apt for learning to drive with just plain ground as far as your eyes can see.
Also I could recall a Swift ad doing whirls in some place like this.
Since it was Feb, the wind was cool and I could imagine what Alia Bhatts character would
have felt in Highway.
Finally we reached Vighakot. The first thing that strikes you is the silence. Anywhere you sit,
you can actually sit and meditate. We were shown in an office, where I was soon joined by
the company commander of the post.
He took me to the view point, where I could see the IB and Pakistan side. So interesting thing
here is this
-

- On the Indian side, from the IB, there is 150 Yards of no man lands, and then 90 km
of nothingness called Rann guarded heavily by BSF and then the first village called
Khavda

- On the Pakistan side, there is 150 yards of no-man lands, and then Pakistan
Villages. Yes, Village with Water tanks, and then some 2.1 km far there is Pakistan
BSF post.

Soon the India side of the border, BSF rules some 90 km of Rann and there are no civilians
living in this region, whereas on the Pakistan side, there is civilian population right on the
border and BSF posts are behind the border village. The things to deduce from this is
Pakistan authorities cares nothing for villagers crossing IB and coming to India, but India
spends lakhs on building fences, BSF personnel, infrastructure to prevent any person coming
into its territory.
Also he was all praises for the Modi Government like many others defense personnel I have
spoken to. The example he gave was that Rajnath Singh visited the IB himself and asked for
inputs and when mentioned to him that some km for IB is still unfenced, the task was finished
in 3 months flat time. From Mantri to Santri almost everyone is for boosting the confidence
of defense personnel on border.
Also I learnt an important concept of load equalization between the BSF and Indian Army,
which I didnt know before. BSF guards the border during the peace time. But during war
time, Indian Army comes in control, with BSF as second in command. So BSF personnel
spend whole of their life on border remote areas, but in command only during peace. Whereas
on the other side is Army, who gets not so remote places as posting but command the
situation during time of war. BSF does not retreat as they are the ones with the knowledge of

small nuances and help Army during wartime. Army comes once in a while and maintains
their equipments, bunker etc and leaves.
Also, this IB is one where there are no gun shots, not even for practice unlike the ones in
J&K.
I also got to know of meeting called between the two sides quite often, one being called by
Pakistan side, the next day India won the India-Pakistan world cup match. The Pakistan
counterparts congratulated the Indians for the victory. These meetings are called to discuss
issues related to border or to exchange letters given by the ministry from both sides. One
question that came to my mind was that how are these meetings called. It is called by raising
the white flag by the side which wants the meeting to be called. Then the opposite side sees
the flag raised and then raise their own flag. Then the two sides meet at a designated hour
(not beyond 6 pm) and conduct the meeting. It is not to extend beyond 2-3 minutes. Though
it is strictly business thing, it does not prevents the two sides to exchange sweets on festivals
like Diwali and Eid.
All in all, I felt privileged this day, because I could visit a border post which few civilians
have permission to and the glorious, proud feeling which erupt inside you whenever you are
singing the national anthem or visit the Wagah Border. Being thankful to the nation that has
its own set of issue, but nonetheless gave me opportunities to earn freedom to do things I love
in life, basically the life I am living.