Chapter 12

1. How does the FDA define cosmetics?

"Articles that are intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or otherwise applied to
the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting
attractiveness or altering the appearance."
2. What is the difference between Functional and Performance ingredient?
Functional Ingredient: Allow product to spread, give them body and texture, and
give them specific form such as lotion, cream, or gel.
Performance Ingredient: Causes actual changes in appearance
3. What function does water serve in cosmetic formulation?
It is both a vehicle and a performance ingredient. Vehicle helps keep other cosmetic
ingredients in solution and helps spread products. It is a performance ingredient
because water replenishes moisture on the surface of skin.
4. What are emollients? Fatty materials used to lubricate and moisturize the skin.
5. What are two basic categories of oils used in skin care products? Oils
from Earth and Plants
6. Describe three emollients other than oil that are used in skin care
products.
Fatty Acid: lubricant ingredient derived from plant oils or animal fats.
Fatty Esters: produced from fatty acids and fatty alcohols, feel better than natural
oils and lubricate evenly.
Silicones: group of oils that are chemically combined with silicon and oxygen and
leave a noncomedogenic protection film on the surface of the skin.
7. Define comedogenicity. Comedogenicity is tendency of any topical substance
to cause or to worsen a buildup in the follicle, leading to the development of a
comedo.
8. What are essential oils?
Oil derived from herbs; have many different properties and effects on the skin and
psyche.
9. Why are preservatives necessary in cosmetic products?
It prevents bacteria and other microorganisms from living in a product.
10. What is the function of humectants in skin care products?
Humectants draw moisture to the skin and soften its surface, diminishing lines
caused by dryness.
11. Name and describe four products that slow the appearance of aging in
the skin.

Peptides: helps the aging skin by stimulate fibroblasts. Retinol: stimulates cell repair
and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new cells. Coenzyme Q10: protects
and revitalizes skin cells. Collagen: plumps the surface of the skin and prevents
water loss.
12. What are the two basic types of sunscreen products?
Chemical and Organic sunscreen.
13. What is the FDA's role in the regulation of cosmetic products?
The FDA regulates cosmetics only in the areas of safety, labeling, and the claims
made for a product and doesnt require approval before manufacture and sale.
14. Describe the symptoms of an allergic reaction to cosmetic products?
Right away: skin become excessively red or the client complains of burning. Later
on: inflammation of the skin, burning or itching, blisters, blotches, or rashes. Eyes
may sell, puff, or produce tears.
15. What two main product components cause the most allergic reactions?
Seaweed and Sulfur.
16. Give 5 examples of antioxidant ingredients.
Vitamin C, E, A , minerals, green tea, grape seed extracts.
17. List 4 ingredients beneficial for mature or aging skin.
Green tea, licorice root, seaweed, chamomile
18. List 2 ingredients beneficial for acne.
Lemongrass and tea tree.
19. List 2 ingredients beneficial for sensitive skin.
Avocado and olive.
20. What are the main categories of professional skin care products?
Cleansers, toners, exfoliants, masks, hydrators and moisturizers, serum and
ampoules, sunscreens.
21. What are the benefits of astringents and toners?
Astringents have a temporary tightening effect on both the skin and follicle
openings and toner remove residue left behind by cleansers or other products.
22. List the two categories of exfoliants, give examples of each type and
explain what they do.
Mechanical: method of physically rubbing dead cells off of the skin. Example:
Microdermabrasion
Chemical Exfoliation: dead skin cells and the intercellular glue that I hold them
together are dissolved by chemical agents. Example: AHA

23. What are the benefits of exfoliation?

Skin texture is smoother and softer, follicle openings are cleaner, deep pore
cleansing and extraction are easier, skins ability to retain moisture and lipids is
improved, product penetration is improved, makeup application is smoother and
more even.
24. List the benefits of a mask.
Tighten & tone, draw impurities out of the pores, clear up blemishes, hydrate,
nourish, calm and soothe.
25. What is the difference between a physical sunscreen and a chemical
sunscreen?
Physical sunscreens physically reflect ultraviolet rays and chemical sunscreen
absorbs ultraviolet rays.
26. What does SPF refer to?
SPF refers to the sun protection factor in sunscreens.
27. Why is sunscreen important?
It protect the skin from UV rays, sun exposure can lead to skin cancer, aging,
hyperpigmentation, capillary damage, free radical damage, and collagen and elastin
deterioration.
28. List the steps in a good daily skin care routine.
Day/Night : cleanser, toner, serums/eye cream, moisturizer, sunscreen ( during day)
Weekly: cleanser, exfoliate, masks, toner, serums/eye cream, and moisturizer.
29. Why are moisturizers necessary?
It protect the skin from the elements, nourishes through ingredients, balancing oilwater content on skin, treating different skin conditions.
30. What considerations are important in choosing product lines?Are the
ingredients high quality and beneficial, are the products versatile, the whole
sale cost and retail price affordable, product name recognizable and reputable.