Professional Documents
Culture Documents
A practical guide to
gardening in Oregon,
featuring vegetable
varieties, planting
dates, insect control,
soil preparation, & more.
Contents
Getting started
Container gardening
Tilling advice
Cover crops
Watering gardens
Fertilizing crops
10
Disease-free garden
11
Managing weeds
12
13
17
Oregon coast
18
Rogue Valley
19
22
24
Getting started
Raised beds
improve soil
drainage and let
you plant earlier
in the spring.
Youll also be
able to grow
more vegetables
in less space.
Step 1
Step 2
Ammonium sulfate
20
Ammonium nitrate
12
Urea 9
Poultry droppings
400700
*Assuming you added 2 inches of organic material.
Step 4
Rake the beds level. The slope of the soil will leave
about 36inches of flat planting space on top of each
48-inch-wide bed.
Once you finish shaping the beds, walk only in the
paths. Add sawdust or bark to the paths to reduce mud.
Retaining walls are unnecessary unless you want to
create special shapes or use narrower walkways. They
hold the soil in place but also create hiding places
for slugs. Boards, blocks, or railroad ties make good
retaining walls.
When you plant in your raised beds, youll need to
apply additional fertilizer because the nitrogen you
added in step 3 took care of only the 2-inch organic layer.
Proper irrigation is important. The soilorganic
matter mixture in raised beds dries faster than clay soil.
On the other hand, it is loose so it absorbs water faster.
Soaker or sprinkler hoses work well; with low pressure,
they water only the raised bed. Keep walkways as dry as
possible to control weeds. Place stakes at the corners of
the beds to prevent hoses from damaging plants.
Organic matter decomposes and disappears, so add
more each year. In the summer, use compost to provide
nutrients. In the fall, cover the beds with 2 inches of
leaves or other organic material.
2 GROWING YOUR OWN
Container gardening
f you lack space for a garden, consider raising vegetables in containers. You can grow any vegetable in
a container with enough preparation and care.
Start by finding a container large enough to support fully grown plants and with adequate soil-holding
capacity to accommodate the plants root systems. The
container must have drainage holes.
You can grow vegetables in almost anything, including
barrels, flower pots, milk jugs, bleach bottles, window
boxes, baskets, tile pipes, and cinder blocks. For most
plants, containers should be at least 6 inches deep.
A fairly lightweight potting soil is the best growing
medium for container plants. Garden soil is too heavy
for container growing. Most commercially sold potting
mixes are too lightweight for garden plants because they
dont offer adequate support for plant roots.
If you buy a potting mix, add soil or compost to
provide bulk and weight. Or mix your own with equal
parts peat moss or well-rotted compost; loamy garden
soil; and clean, coarse builders sand. Add a slow-acting,
balanced fertilizer (slow-release synthetic or organic
fertilizers work best) according to container size. Add
lime to bring the mixtures pH to around 6.5.
The ideal vegetables for containers are those that take
little spacesuch as carrots, radishes, lettuce, and
parsleyor those that yield produce over a long period
of timesuch as tomatoes, peppers, herbs, and eggplants.
When planting, first carefully clean out the container,
then fill it to within inch of the top with slightly
dampened soil mix. Sow the seeds or set transplants.
Gently water the soil with warm water, taking care not to
wash out the seeds. Label each container with the name
and variety of plant and planting date. When seedlings
Good organic
amendments for
garden soils include
wood byproducts
such as sawdust
and bark mulch,
peat moss, cured
manure, grass or
wheat straw, and
compost.
Tilling advice
illing the garden performs a number of necessary functions. It mixes organic matter and
fertilizer into garden soil and temporarily
loosens the soil and helps control weeds that
compete with crops for moisture and nutrients.
Frequent tilling, however, may do more harm than
good. Too much tilling tends to destroy the structural
qualities of soil and eventually may leave you with
soil that is better suited to making bricks than garden
produce.
Till garden soil only when it will accomplish some
useful purpose, such as turning under organic matter,
controlling weeds, breaking crusted soil for water
penetration, or loosening a small amount of soil for
planting seeds.
Never till soil when it is wet. Doing so will leave you
with cloddy, compacted soil. To test soil moisture, take
a handful of soil and squeeze it. If it stays in a mud ball,
its too wet to till. If it is powdery and clumped, it is too
dry. If it crumbles freely, it is just right.
To preserve soil structure, till with a purpose and only when soil
moisture is neither too wet or too dry.
GROWING YOUR OWN 5
he compost pile is the home gardeners recycling factory. Instead of throwing away valuable organic materials, recycle them for use in
your garden.
Compost is a good fertilizer and soil conditioner
when worked into garden soil. Compost is also an
excellent mulch.
You can compost many types of organic materials. Sod, grass clippings (avoid clippings from lawns
recently treated with weed killers), healthy leaves, hay,
straw, young weeds (avoid seed-laden weed material),
manure, chopped corn stalks, shredded newspaper,
and many kinds of vegetable and fruit refuse from the
kitchen are good materials for composting. Shredding or otherwise converting the material into small
particles speeds up the composting process.
A closed composting
bin is a good way
to recycle fruit and
vegetable scraps
while keeping out
pests.
Region 1
Region 2
Region 3
Region 4
Region 4.
Columbia and
Snake valleys,
Hermiston,
Pendleton,
Ontario
Vegetable
Start plans
indoors this
long before
planting date
Artichokes (globe)
crown pieces
Aug.Oct.,
MayJune
Aug.Nov.,
AprilJune
not suitable
Asparagus
1 year
MarchApril
Feb.March
Beans (lima)
not suitable
not suitable
Beans (snap)
not suitable
MayJune
Beets
not suitable
Broccoli
Region 1.
Coast,
Astoria to
Brookings
Region 2.
Western
valleys,
Portland to
Roseburga
Amount to plant
for family of fourb
Distance
between rowsc
Distance apart
in the row
not suitable
34 plants
4860
4860
Feb.March
Feb.March
3040 plants
60
12
MayJune
MayJune
April 15June
1525 of row
1224
MayJuly
AprilJune
April 15June
1525 of row
1224
MarchJune
MarchJune
AprilJune
MarchJuly
1015 of row
12
12
6 weeks
MayJune
MarchAug.
AprilJune
AprilJuly
1020 of row
1224
1224
Brussels sprouts
6 weeks
MayJune
MayJuly
AprilJune
AprilJuly
1520 of row
24
24
Cabbage
6 weeks
Jan.April,
JulySept.
AprilJune
AprilJune
AprilJuly
1015 plants
24
24
Cantaloupes
4 weeks
not suitable
May
not suitable
May
510 hills
48
48
Carrots
not suitable
Jan.June
MarchJuly 15
AprilJune
MarchJuly
2030 of row
12
Cauliflower
6 weeks
AprilJuly 15
AprilMay
1015 plants
24
24
Celery
9 weeks
MarchJune
MarchJuly
MayJune
JuneAugust
2030 of row
24
Chard
not suitable
Feb.May
AprilJuly
MarchJune
Feb.May
34 plants
24
12 inches
Chinese cabbage
4 weeks
JulyAug.
August
AprilJune
August
1015 of row
30
Chives
6 weeks
AprilMay
MarchMay
AprilJuly
Feb.March
1 clump
Needs 4 sq ft
Scatter
Corn (sweet)
not suitable
AprilMay
AprilJune
MayJune
April 15June
36
15
Cucumbers (slicing)
4 weeks
AprilJune
MayJune
MayJune
April 15June
6 plants
48
24
Cucumbers (pickling)
4 weeks
May
MayJune
MayJune
April 15June
25 of row
48
612
Dill
not suitable
May
May
May
May
25 of row
24
69
Eggplants
9 weeks
not suitable
May
not suitable
May
46 plants
24
24
Endive
6 weeks
MarchJuly
AprilAug. 15
AprilJuly
August
1015 of row
12
10
Garlic
not suitable
Sept.Oct.
Sept.Feb.
Aug.Sept.
Nov.Feb.
1020 of row
18
Kale
not suitable
MayJuly
MayJuly
MayJuly
MayJuly
2030 of row
24
24
Kohlrabi
not suitable
JulyAug.
AprilAug. 15
May
AprilAug.
1015 of row
24
Leeks
not suitable
Feb.April
MarchMay
AprilJune
Jan.April
10 of row
24
Lettuce (head)
5 weeks
Feb.July
AprilJuly
AprilAug.
Feb.April
1015 of row
12
12
Lettuce (leaf)
5 weeks
Feb.Aug.
AprilAug.
AprilAug.
Feb.April
1015 of row
12
Okra
8 weeks
not suitable
not suitable
not suitable
May
1020 of row
24
18
Onions
10 weeks
Jan.May
Mar.May
MayJune
Feb.April
3040 of row
12
Parsley
10 weeks
Dec.May
Mar.June
MayJuly
Feb.May
12 plants
12
Parsnips
not suitable
MayJune
AprilMay
May
Mar.June
1015 of row
24
Peas
not suitable
Jan.Aug.
Feb.May
AprilJune
Mar.April
3040 of row
36 bush, 48 vine
Peppers
10 weeks
May
MayJune
MayJune
May
510 plants
24
1218
Potatoes (sweet)
6 weeks
not suitable
not suitable
not suitable
May
50100 of row
48
12
Potatoes (white)
not suitable
Feb.May
AprilJune
MayJune
Mar.June
50100 of row
30
12
Pumpkins
4 weeks
May
May
June
April 15June
13 plants
72
48
Radish
not suitable
All year
MarchSept.
AprilJuly
Mar.Sept.
4 of row
12
Rhubarb
crown pieces
Dec.Jan.
MarchApril
April
Feb.March
23 plants
48
36
Rutabagas
not suitable
JuneJuly
JuneJuly
AprilMay
Mar.July
1015 of row
24
Spinach
not suitable
Aug.Feb.
Sept.Jan.
1020 of row
12
Squash (summer)
4 weeks
May
MayJune
MayJune
April 15June
24 plants
48
24
Squash (winter)
4 weeks
May
May
May
April 15May
24 plants
72
48
Tomatoes
8 weeks
MayJune
May
May
May
1015 plants
3648, closer if
supported
2436
Turnips
not suitable
Apr.Sept.
AprilMay
1015 of row
24
Watermelons
4 weeks
not suitable
May
not suitable
May
6 plants
72
60
Medford area planting dates may be 710 days earlier and extend 710 days later than dates indicated for western valleys.
b
For many of the crops, the amount to plant should be divided into several plantings, 1 or 2 weeks apart.
c
Use narrower spacings for small gardens.
a
Drip irrigation systems require an initial investment of time and money but, once installed, are more
convenient and conserve water. You can set up a drip
system to meet the needs of individual plants precisely
and then alter it throughout the growing season as
watering needs change.
As with any watering method, infrequent, deep watering is the goal. A typical drip system is run 1 or 2 hours
once or twice a week. Avoid the tendency to overwater
with drip systems; the surface may look dry while the
rooting zone is wet. If in doubt, check the soil.
The pattern of soil wetting with drip irrigation is
different for sandy and clay soils. In sandy soil, the
water soaks straight in, wetting a narrow vertical band
of soil. In clay soil, the water spreads more horizontally.
Thus, drip emitters can be placed farther apart for clay
soil than for sandy soil.
Sprinklers have the disadvantage of wasting water by
watering paths and other bare spots in the garden. They
also lose water to evaporation and wind drift. When using sprinklers, always water when there is little wind.
Because they wet the foliage, sprinklers also might
promote the development of leaf diseases.
If using oscillating sprinklers, elevate them above the
tallest plants so the water streams are not blocked. To
make sure all of your plants are watered, place sprinklers
so their patterns overlap. Runoff indicates you need to
water at a slower rate.
Corn, tomatoes,
asparagus, and
rhubarb have deep
root systems that
draw water from
the top 2 feet of soil.
Water them deeply
but less frequently.
Lettuce, beets, and
green beans draw
water from the top
foot or less of soil.
Water them often.
E
Soils in western
Oregon may lack
enough boron.
Cabbage, broccoli,
cauliflower,
raspberries, beets,
and carrots may
benefit from an
application of
boron, if a soil
test indicates a
deficiency.
Managing weeds
Mulching
Landscape fabrics
are another option
for weed control.
They deprive weeds
of the light they
need to grow.
Pull or hoe weeds when the soil is damp, but not wet.
Working wet soil damages soil structure. Conversely,
when soil is too dry, weeds are hard to remove.
Several hoe styles are available. The lightweight Warren type of hoe has a heart-shaped blade and is useful
for cultivating between plants. The hula or action hoe
is a lightweight scuffle hoe. Pushing and pulling it just
under the soil surface eliminates newly emerging weeds.
It is less effective against well-established weeds.
Cultivation
Rotation
Trap crops. Slugs love to eat marigolds. Plant marigolds along your gardens border and hand pick slugs
and dispose of them in late evening.
Hand picking
These underground larvae inflict damage on cabbage family varieties and radishes. Flies lay eggs on
plant stems or near the ground level. The eggs hatch
into maggots.
Destroying crop refuse and trash in the fall will help
eliminate overwintering sites for these pests. Controlling wild mustard around the garden will help reduce
cabbage maggot fly populations. Covering plants with
floating row covers helps keep flies from laying eggs on
or near plants. Surrounding stems with paper collars
might help deter downward movement of maggots
that do hatch on the stems.
The adult fly is susceptible to dusts or sprays of
methoxychlor or malathion. Several applications at
10- to 14-day intervals should eliminate the problem.
14 GROWING YOUR OWN
Garden symphylan
Aphids
Cucumber beetle
Western Damsel Bug Nabil alternatus Parshley
This is a green
ladybug with black
spots. It damages
vegetables by chewing
holes in leaves and can
spread disease.
Use floating row
covers to protect
plants, but remove the
covers from cucumbers, melons, and
squash when they
start to bloom so bees
can pollinate them.
Hand-picking is
another effective control method.
Pesticides also can be
used to manage this
pest.
Cabbage worm
Drawings
from Insects
and Mites of
Economic
Importance in
the Northwest,
reproduced with
permission.
Warm-season vegetables require warm temperatures to germinate (50F) and warmer day and night
temperatures to reach maturity. For germination and
early growth, soil temperature is as important as air
temperature. Dont rush. Vegetables planted too early
may fail to establish well and may take longer to begin
producing and have smaller total yields than those
planted after soil and air temperatures have warmed.
Site selection
A lack of nutrients limits plant growth in any gardening environment. Be sure to apply adequate fertilizer to coastal gardens during the growing season.
Choice of crop varieties
Lack of sunlight and warmth often are limiting factors on the coast. Sometimes, removing trees will make
a big difference. Orienting garden rows in a north-
Gardening in the
Rogue Valley
Site selection
Corn can be
planted in midApril even though
nighttime temperatures still are cool.
Cool nights in
early summer
can delay fruit set
on tomatoes, but
tomatoes will set
on by midsummer,
giving them time
to ripen during the
warm, sunny days
of early fall.
or gardens in lower elevation areas along the Columbia River, frost and cold are not the main enemy.
In the river gorge, beginning in mid-spring and extending through summer, heat and steady winds
create problems for gardeners trying to establish fruit and vegetable plantings.
Starting a garden in a steady 20-mile-per-hour breeze with temperatures approaching the mid-80s can
be a challenge. Frequent, light watering is the only way to keep seedlings from drying out. Place a rock
or secure a roofing shingle on the windward side of seedlings to break the wind and help plants become
established.
As the season progresses and temperatures rise above 100F, protection from heat becomes critical.
Plants can wilt and die quickly if not properly cared for. Give established plants plenty of water. Watering
60 to 90 minutes at a time, three times a week, will keep plants growing vigorously.
For season-long protection from the wind, plant a hedge that will grow 4 to 5 feet high on the west side
of the garden. It will provide some wind protection yet allow plenty of light to reach garden plants.