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ENGINE
Detroit Diesel - Series 60 - Lubrication System
IDENTIFICATION
Fig. 1: Series 60 - Engine View - Front
Fig. 2: Series 60 - Engine View - Rear
Fig. 3: Series 60 - Engine View - Left Side
Fig. 4: Series 60 - Engine View - Right Side
Fig. 5: Series 60 - Engine View - Top Left
Fig. 6: Series 60 - Engine View - Top Right
SPECIAL TOOLS
SPECIAL TOOLS
Tool Name
J 23432
Tool Number
Snap Ring Pliers
DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

WARNING: Follow all safety precautions, see SAFETY .
Lubrication system consists of the following components.
Oil Cooler
Oil Filters
Oil Filter Adaptor
Oil Level Dipstick
Oil Pan
Oil Pump
Pressure Regulator Valve
Pressure Relief Valve
Ventilating System
Copyright 2006 - Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC - All Rights Reserved.
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Fig. 7: Lubrication System Schematic

Courtesy of DETROIT DIESEL CORP.
Engine oil leaving oil pump is pumped through filters to oil cooler and bypass passage and then into
oil gallery in cylinder block and is distributed to various engine bearings and moving parts. On
engines produced before 1993, a bypass type, spin-on filter was used in addition to 2 full-flow oil
filters. A portion of oil is continually sent through bypass filter and returned to oil pan. Oil returning
from cylinder head and other engine parts drains to oil pan.
Oil from cooler is sent to a longitudinal main oil gallery on cooler side of cylinder block. See Fig. 7.
This gallery pumps pressurized oil to main bearings and to a horizontal, transverse passage at ends of
cylinder block. From each of these 2 passages, oil is pumped into 2 vertical bores (one at each end of
cylinder block) to vertical passages in cylinder head.
Passages in cylinder head route oil from cylinder block to No. 1 and 7 lower camshaft bearing
saddles. From there, oil is sent upward (through the enlarged stud hole) to No. 1 and 7 upper
camshaft bearing caps. A passage drilled in each of these caps ends at the rocker arm shaft seat area,
where it indexes rocker arm bushings and intermediate upper camshaft bearings. Some of the oil is
directed to rocker arm camshaft follower, roller pin and bushing.
The rocker is drilled to send oil to valve adjusting screw, intake and exhaust valve stems, valve
button, retainer clip and fuel injector follower. The No. 4 camshaft cap is drilled in a Y pattern,
forming an oil path connection between front and rear rocker arm shafts, for complete lubrication. Oil
then drains through cylinder head, block, and back to oil pan. Oil for connecting rod bearings, piston
pins and for cooling piston dome is pumped through the drilled crankshaft from adjacent forward
main bearings.
The bull gear recess area of the cylinder block has 2 holes drilled into cylinder block front-cross oil
gallery. This supplies oil to bull gear bearings, bull gear and camshaft idler gear and hub. See Fig. 8.
Fig. 8: Identifying Gear Train Oil Supply Holes
The extra oil from bull gear lubricates oil pump drive gear and crankshaft timing gear. The adjustable
idler gear assembly is lubricated by a hole at the top, front of block, drilled into the block front-cross
oil gallery, and mates with an oil passage in gear case. See Fig. 8. Extra oil from this also lubricates
accessory drive and water pump drive gears. Splash feeding supplies lubrication for bearings and
shafts of these 2 drive assemblies.
An external flexible oil line located from a threaded hole at the top, front corner of left side of
cylinder block, to the air compressor assembly. Oil drains from air compressor to air compressor
drive housing into gear case through a hole.
NOTE:
There is a "T" fitting in air compressor drive assembly on early

production Series 60 engines. A external flexible oil line ran from
cylinder block to this "T" fitting and another line ran from "T" fitting to
air compressor assembly.
A external flexible oil line sends oil from oil filter adaptor housing pressure gallery to turbocharger
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bearings and shaft. Oil is returned through an external line to block and then back to oil pan.
Be sure to use proper viscosity grade and type of heavy-duty oil. See LUBRICANT
REQUIREMENT - ALL DIESEL .
Red dye is used on Series 60 engines to detect system leaks during engine testing at factory. Any dye
remaining in oil systems should disperse after first few hours of engine operation.
OIL PUMP
Oil pump is mounted to cylinder block and is gear driven from front end of crankshaft. See Fig. 9.
Fig. 9: Identifying Oil Pump
Oil pump design has been changed starting with 1991 production engines. Oil pump is smaller, and
contains a relief valve. See Fig. 10. On both current and former design oil pumps, helical gears rotate
inside a housing. See Fig. 11 for previous oil pump.
Drive gear is pressed on drive shaft, and supported inside housing with bushings. Driven gear is
pressed on driven gear shaft, and is also supported inside housing with bushings.
The inlet pipe is attached to inlet opening in pump body. The screen end of inlet pipe is supported
using brackets mounted to block. Inlet screen is located below oil level in pan to be able to draw up
engine oil.
Fig. 10: Lubricating Oil Pump Exploded View (1991 & Later Engines)
Fig. 11: Lubricating Oil Pump Exploded View (Pre-1991 Engines)
OIL PRESSURE REGULATOR VALVE
The purpose of the oil pressure regulator valve is to maintain a stable oil pressure within engine, at
any temperature. Oil exiting pump (under pressure) goes into pressure relief valve body. Oil Pressure
Regulator Valve is located in end of a vertically drilled passage in engine block, located on oil cooler
on right side of block, that connects with main cylinder block oil gallery. See Fig. 12.
Fig. 12: Locating Oil Pressure Regulator Valve
Oil pressure regulator valve is composed of a valve body, spring and spring seat, a hollow pistontype valve and a pin to retain valve assembly within the valve body. See Fig. 13.
Oil pressure regulator valve is held on the seat by a spring, which is compressed by the pin behind
spring seat. Entire assembly is bolted to lower flange of cylinder block and sealed against leaks by a
gasket between engine block and valve body. When oil pressure exceeds 45 psi (310 kPa), regulator
valve begins to move from its seat and oil from engine gallery is bypassed to oil pan, maintaining
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constant oil pressure

Fig. 13: Oil Pressure Regulator Valve & Relief Valve Components
OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
Oil leaving oil pump under pressure enters into pressure relief valve body. When pressure exceeds
105 psi, the spring-loaded valve opens and directs all excess oil to pan. Pressure relief valve is
attached to oil pump outlet tube (on 1991 and later production engines) and on the oil pump body (on
pre-1991 production engines). See Fig. 12. Pressure relief valve components are: valve body, hollow,
piston-type valve, spring, spring seat and pin to retain valve.
Relief valve assembly uses same parts as regulator valve assembly with exception of valve body. See
Fig. 13. Valve is held on seat by the compressed spring, which is held in by the pin. Entire assembly
is bolted to cylinder block and sealed using a gasket between block and valve body. When oil
pressure reaches 100 lb/in.2 (689 kPa), the pressure overrides the valve and it becomes forced from
its seat and oil is bypassed to oil pan, maintaining a stable oil pressure at all times.
OIL FILTER
On current Series 60 engines, 2 full-flow type oil filters are used. Oil filters are disposable, spin-on
type and mounted in a downward position. Prior to 1993, Series 60 engines use a bypass filter.
OIL FILTER ADAPTOR
Oil filter adaptor is mounted on right side of engine (on oil cooler).
NOTE:
The 1991-1992 engines are equipped with separate oil filter bypass
adaptor.
A bypass valve in filter adaptor opens at about 18-21 psi (124-145 kPa) pressure differential, and will
bypass oil should the full-flow filters become plugged.
Fig. 14: Identifying Oil Filter Adaptor (1993 & Later Engines)
THERMATIC OIL CONTROL VALVE
A dual spin-on oil filter adaptor with a temperature-sensitive thermatic oil control valve is available
on Series 60, 11.1 Liter low compression (15:1) industrial and automotive engines and certain 12.7
Liter engines. See Fig. 15.
Fig. 15: Locating Thermatic Oil Control Valve (1993 & Later Engines)
Thermatic oil control valve is located in oil filter adaptor assembly, operating similar to a thermostat,
to control flow of oil through the engine and oil cooler. With oil temperature at less than 220F (104
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C), thermatic oil valve is in bypass mode. Filtered engine flows directly to main oil gallery,
bypassing oil cooler. With oil not passing through oil cooler, engine oil warms up quickly. When oil
temperature reaches 220-227F (104-108C) the thermatic oil valve stars to open. Valve senses oil
temperature and sends oil both through and around oil cooler. At oil temperatures of 237F (114C),
thermatic oil valve is completely open, and 100% of oil flows through the oil cooler. To inspect valve
operation, refer to TESTING THERMATIC OIL CONTROL VALVE.
Use of thermatic oil control valve allows engine oil to reach normal temperature range quickly,
reducing amount of time during which engine operates on thick cold engine oil. During light load
engine operation, thermatic valve keeps oil within the proper temperature range for optimum
lubrication. By maintaining engine oil temperature within 220-237F (104-114C) range, friction is
minimized, resulting in efficient operation.
OIL COOLER (1991 & LATER ENGINES)
For optimum performance, lubricating oil must be kept within proper temperature range. If oil is too
cold (thick), it will not flow easily. If it is too hot (thin), it cannot properly support the high bearing
loads and properly dissipate heat and oil pressure may drop below acceptable limits and oil
consumption could become excessive. Oil absorbs a substantial amount of heat, and this needs to be
dissipated by the oil cooler. Oil cooler is mounted on right side of engine near water pump.
If oil cooler becomes plugged, a bypass passage, found at cooler inlet, allows oil to bypass cooler and
flow directly to cylinder block. Coolant is circulated through the oil cooler housing completely
surrounding oil cooler core. Whenever an oil cooler is assembled, ensure proper gaskets in place and
retaining bolts tight to ensure good sealing.
A change in design was made to oil cooler housing and mounting on Series 60 engines built after
VIN # 6R37023. Because of this change, there are differences in repairs to the 2 designs.
Oil cooler housing outlet uses a large rubber "O" ring seated in a recess in outlet neck. The oil filter
adapter also has 2 smaller O-rings, located in adaptor counterbores, sealing the passages between the
core and the adapter. Oil cooler housing attaches to oil filter adaptor. Oil flow is from oil pump,
through a vertical gallery in engine block, then through spin-on oil filters and through the oil cooler
core and engine main oil gallery.
OIL COOLER (PRE-1991 ENGINES)
For optimum performance, lubricating oil must be kept within proper temperature range. If oil is too
cold (thick), it will not flow easily. If it is too hot (thin), it cannot properly support the high bearing
loads and properly dissipate heat and oil pressure may drop below acceptable limits and oil
consumption could become excessive. Oil absorbs a substantial amount of heat, and this needs to be
dissipated by the oil cooler. Oil cooler is mounted on right side of engine near water pump.
Pre-1991 engines use 4, 6, 7 or 8-plate coolers, depending on horsepower. Ensure that correct oil
cooler is used for your application. Oil cooler is mounted on right side of engine near water pump.
If oil cooler becomes plugged, a bypass passage located at inlet, allows oil to bypass cooler and flow
directly to oil gallery in engine. Coolant is circulated through oil cooler housing surrounding oil
cooler core. Ensure proper gaskets are in place and retaining bolts tight for good sealing.
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A design change was made to oil cooler housing and mounting on Series 60 engines built after VIN #
6R37023. Because of this change, the 2 designs are repaired differently. Coolant outlet oil cooler
housing uses 2 large rubber O-rings seated in a groove in outlet neck. Two small O-rings are located
in cylinder block counterbores to seal passages between block and cooler core. Oil flow is from oil
pump, through passage in engine block, through spin-on oil filters and then through oil cooler core
and engine block main oil galleries.
OIL LEVEL DIPSTICK ASSEMBLY
Fig. 16: Identifying Oil Level Dipstick
Dipstick is used to inspect engine oil level. See Fig. 16. Snap action dipstick have locking tangs and
contains an "O" ring seal in the T-handle. A sealing ring between adaptor and dipstick tube ensures a
tight seal.
CAUTION: Ensure oil level is always between low and full marks on dipstick.
NEVER allow oil level to drop below the low mark. Overfilling will
cause oil foaming or aeration. Operating engine below the low
mark may cause severe engine damage.
Always inspect oil level after engine has been stopped for a minimum of 20 minutes to ensure all the
oil has drained back into oil pan. Inspect oil on a level surface.
NOTE:
Engine oil capacity can vary depending on oil pan size and engine
application.
For total oil capacity refer to SERIES 60G GENSET ENGINE OPERATING CONDITIONS .
Later model dipstick adaptor has a thicker wall than the former adaptor and has a copper seal
between adaptor and nut on oil dipstick tube assembly. See Fig. 16.
OIL PAN
Series 60 engine oil pans are made of epoxy vinyl ester (plastic) or aluminum. For engines built after
April 1999, a one-piece bolt assembly is used with improved plastic front sump and rear sump oil
pans and a NEW isolator seal. The NEW isolator seal is reusable if not damaged.
CAUTION: DO NOT mix old and NEW components.
NOTE:
Effective April 1999, all Series 60 engines are built with a reusable oil
pan isolator seal. Unless seal is damaged, replacement is not required
at time of removal.
NOTE:
Use a soapy water solution to assist in installing seal into oil pan
groove. When installing a NEW pan on an engine prior to serial number
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6R490000 (built March 1, 1999), shift pan toward front of engine before
tightening bolts to help eliminate any interference between flywheel
housing and oil pan.
Fig. 17: Identifying One-Piece Bolt Assembly
Plastic oil pan utilize side plugs that are threaded into a stainless steel insert, secured by a nut inside
the pan. See Fig. 17. It is sealed using a Fluoroelastomer seal ring that is located in a groove
machined on the insert flange. The oil pan is attached using rubber isolator-washer assemblies and
sleeves. Metal sleeve spacers are used to limit travel of oil pan bolts and prevent over tightening and
damage to oil pan and isolator.
After August 1995, isolators made of an improved vibration-absorbing material were used to reduce
noise. Also the isolator bolt sleeve length increased by 0.032 in. (0.8 mm) to accommodate the longer
isolators. Loctite PT 7271 sealant (or equivalent) is used on pipe plugs. When installing plug, hold
insert to keep it from turning, and tighten plug to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
VENTILATING SYSTEM
Vapors are removed from crankcase, gear train and valve compartment by a continuous pressurized
ventilating system. A slight pressure is maintained in engine crankcase by combustion gases leaking
past the piston rings. These gases are swept up and pass through a crankcase breather and then vented
to atmosphere.
On certain Series 60 engines used in on-highway vehicle applications, breather extension hoses may
be required. Under certain conditions, vapors from engine may pass through the alternator by the
alternator cooling fan cooling fan, causing alternator failure. Inspect length of engine breather tube
and add an extension hose, if necessary. Breather hose end must extend at least 12 inches below oil
pan rail.
A wire mesh element, located inside valve cover or in a separate housing on valve cover cap or at
gear case cover, traps excess engine oil particles in vapor and returns vapor to crankcase. See Fig. 18.
NOTE:
Series 60G automotive engine uses a closed crankcase breather

system. See CLOSED CRANKCASE BREATHER FOR SERIES 60G
AUTOMOTIVE ENGINES .
On engines with serial numbers 6R128446 and 6R134254, baffle has been replaced with current style
baffle to redirect oil splash from rocker arms, preventing oil from contaminating breather element.
Fig. 18: Identifying Wire Mesh Element & Retainer Clip
COMPONENT TESTS
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ASSEMBLED OIL PUMP

1. Rotate oil pump by hand to inspect for binding. If binding is found, disassemble and correct as
needed. See DISASSEMBLY OF OIL PUMP. If okay, reuse oil pump.
2. Using a dial indicator mounted on pump mounting surface, rotate gear and inspect for gear runout. If reading exceeds 0.003 in. (0.08 mm), disassemble oil pump and correct cause. See
DISASSEMBLY OF OIL PUMP. If reading is within specifications, reuse oil pump.
CAUTION: Make sure thermatic oil control valve is working properly. If not,
engine overheating may result. If engine has overheated the
thermatic oil control valve may also fail. A sticking valve may
cause engine overheating. A valve stuck in the fully open position
will cause poor fuel economy in cold weather.
1. Place thermometer and thermatic oil control valve in a container (similar to a pot) with clean
engine oil. Do not let thermometer or thermatic oil control valve to touch the metal sides of
container.
2. Heat oil in container. Slowly stir oil to maintain an even temperature. Allow 10 minutes for
thermatic oil control valve to open/close before determining if it is operating properly.
3. As oil is heated, thermatic oil control valve begins to open. The start-to-open temperature
range (as stamped on thermostat) is 220-225F (104-107C). At 237F (114C), the thermatic
valve is fully opened to 0.320 in. (8.13 mm).
4. If thermatic oil control valve does not open as specified, replace valve. If thermatic oil control
valve opens as specified, go to next step.
5. Remove thermatic oil control valve from heat. Allow valve to cool down. Dry control valve
with compressed air. Apply a thin coat of lubricating oil to protect surfaces from corrosion.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

OIL PUMP
Repair Or Replacement
To determine what repairs are needed, see OIL PUMP - INSPECTION.

Removal
1. Drain engine oil. See LUBRICATING OIL .

2. Remove pan bolts, isolators, sleeves and washers, and then oil pan. See REMOVAL OF OIL
PAN.
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CAUTION: Thru-bolts must be loosened first.
3. Only loosen thru-bolts securing oil pump bracket to pick-up tube. Remove oil pump pick-up
tube. Tap pick-up tube gently to loosen from gasket. Remove pipe.
CAUTION: If removing oil pump, loosen bolts but do not remove to
prevent pump from falling, before you are ready to remove
oil pump.
4. Remove outlet pipe from pump. Tap outlet pipe gently to loosen pipe from gaskets and remove
pipe.
NOTE:
Remove and save shims, if used, between oil pump mounting feet
and cylinder block.
5. Remove oil pump. If necessary, pry gently on oil pump assembly to loosen oil pump from
engine block.
Disassembly
NOTE:
Inspect positions of all components to facilitate reassembly of pump.
1. Remove oil pressure relief valve to oil pump housing bolts. On pre-1991 engines only, lightly
tap relief valve to loosen from gasket and oil pump housing.
2. Remove oil pump drive gear from shaft using a 2-jaw puller, then remove oil pump cover.
3. Remove drive gear and shaft and driven gear shaft assemblies from oil pump housing.
Inspection
1. Wash all parts in diesel fuel and dry parts using compressed air.
2. Remove gasket material from oil pump housing, relief valve, inlet pipe and outlet pipe mating
surfaces.
3. Clean outlet and inlet pipe and screen with diesel fuel and dry using compressed air.
4. Measure bushing clearance in cover and pump body. If pump cover-to-shaft bushing clearance
is more than 0.0035 in. (0.089 mm), replace bushing. If shaft-to-pump cover bushing clearance
is less than 0.0035 in. (0.089 mm), reuse bushing.
CAUTION: Excess wear in gears will result in low engine oil pressure
and serious engine damage.
5. Inspect oil pump gear. Determine if gear turns by hand freely in pump housing. If binding,
replace with a NEW gear. If not, reuse gear.
6. Inspect gear teeth on drive shaft bushing contact areas. Inspect contact areas for wear on gear
teeth and drive shaft. If excessively worn, replace NEW parts. If not worn, reuse parts.
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Assembly (1991 & Later Engines)
1. Coat drive shaft bushing with clean engine oil. Install drive shaft and gear assembly into pump.
See Fig. 10.
2. Place pump on a press, with pump body down, supporting drive shaft. Pump body should be
clear of the press bed supported by pump gear touching bottom of pump cavity.
3. Using a light film of Lubriplate (or equivalent) coat drive gear. Firmly position drive gear on
end of shaft. Press drive gear onto the shaft until you get a clearance of 0.039 in. (1.00 mm)
between inner face of gear and pump body.
NOTE:
A minimum load of 1515 lbs. must be obtained when pressing

gear onto shaft. When completed, an end play of 0.033-0.044 in.
(0.84-1.12 mm) must be obtained.
4. Using clean engine oil, lightly coat driven gear bushing. Install drive shaft and gears into pump
body. See Fig. 10. Using clean engine oil, lightly coat both bushings in pump cover. Align
cover with shafts. Hand-tighten cover bolts. Using your hand, rotate oil pump. Oil pump
should turn freely.
CAUTION: Oil pump binding must be corrected prior to completing
installation to avoid engine damage.
5. If oil pump binds, disassemble and repair binding components. See DISASSEMBLY OF OIL
PUMP. Tighten oil pump cover bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
Assembly (Pre-1991 Engines)
1. Using clean engine oil lightly coat drive shaft bushing. Install drive shaft and gears into pump
body.
2. Align oil pump on a hydraulic press, with pump body down, and supporting drive shaft.
3. Pump body should not contact the press bed supported by pump gear contacting bottom of
pump cavity.
4. Using clean engine oil, apply a light of lubriplate (or equivalent) to drive gear. Align drive gear
firmly on end of shaft.
5. Using the press, install drive shaft until a clearance of 0.015 in. (0.38 mm) is reached between
inner face of gear and pump body.
NOTE:
A minimum load of 2000 lbs. must be reached when pressing

gear on shaft. When completed, the end play must be 0.010-0.020
in. (0.25-0.51 mm).
6. Using clean engine oil, lightly coat driven gear shaft bushing. Install driven shaft and gears into
pump body. See Fig. 11.
7. Using clean engine oil, lightly coat both bushings in pump. Align them with shafts. Install
pump cover bolts and hand-tighten.
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CAUTION: Binding oil pump concern must be corrected before

installation to avoid Severe engine damage.
8. Rotate pump by hand to inspect for binding. If binding is found, disassemble and correct as
needed. See DISASSEMBLY OF OIL PUMP. Tighten oil pump cover bolts to specification.
See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
Installation
CAUTION: If shims were between pump mounting feet and engine block, and
a NEW drive gear wasn't installed, use same shims (cleaned) or
same number of NEW (identical) shims should be used. If needed,
change shims to acquire proper clearance between gear teeth. If a
NEW drive gear was installed, a different number of shims may be
required for proper clearance. Pump must be tightened to
cylinder block PRIOR TO measuring clearance between gear
teeth. Engine MUST be in an upright position to measure gear
lash.
1. Position oil pump on cylinder block so that oil pump drive gear aligns with crankshaft drive
gear. Dowels in oil pump mounting feet should be aligned in cylinder block mating holes.
2. Install bolts through pump mounting feet into engine block. Tighten bolts to specification and
in sequence. See Fig. 19 and TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
Fig. 19: Identifying Oil Pump Bolt Tightening Sequence
3. Install a dial indicator with magnetic base to engine block so that indicator tip rests on oil
pump drive gear tooth.
A. Clearance between crankshaft gear and oil pump drive gear is 0.002-0.009 in. (0.0510.229 mm).
NOTE:
Engine must be in an upright position for this measurement.

Adjust gear tooth clearance by installing or removing shims.
Equal number of shims must be changed so that pump will
always be level on engine block.
B. Adjust number of shims as necessary to obtain proper gear lash. Installing or removing a
0.005 in. (0.127 mm) shim will change gear tooth clearance by about 0.0035 in. (0.089
mm).
4. Install oil pressure regulator valve. See INSTALLATION OF OIL PRESSURE
REGULATOR VALVE.
5. When attaching pump outlet pipe, DO NOT tighten bolts until all bolts have been started.
6. Use NEW gaskets and seals between oil pump housing, outlet pipe and cylinder block. Tighten
elbow-to-block bolts first then the elbow-to-pump bolts to specification. See TORQUE
SPECIFICATIONS. Install NEW gasket between oil pump housing and pick-up tube.
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CAUTION: Thru-bolts must tightened last, to prevent twisting oil pickup tube and causing eventual stress-crack damage at pickup tube to flange joints.
7. Install and tighten thru-bolts with washers attached to specification. See TORQUE
SPECIFICATIONS.
8. Install and tighten pick-up tube support bracket-to-engine block bolts to specifications. See
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
9. Tighten thru-bolts at inlet pipe to support bracket to specification. See TORQUE
SPECIFICATIONS. Recheck all bolts for tightness to ensure oil will not leak between oil
pump and pipe mounting connections.
10. Install engine oil pan. See INSTALLATION OF OIL PAN.
11. Fill crankcase with recommended engine oil. See LUBRICANT REQUIREMENT - ALL
DIESEL, EXCEPT PLEASURE CRAFT MARINE .
12. Start engine and inspect for proper oil pressure. See RUNNING for verification of proper oil
pump installation.
OIL PRESSURE REGULATOR VALVE
Repair Or Replacement Inspection
1. Drain engine oil. Remove oil pan and gasket. See REMOVAL OF OIL PAN. Remove oil
pressure regulator valve and gasket. See REMOVAL OF OIL PRESSURE REGULATOR
VALVE.
2. Disassemble oil pressure regulator valve. Clean components. Inspect regulator valve for
binding. If valve is not binding, go to next step. If valve is binding, replace as necessary. After
replacing regulator valve, go to step 5.
3. Inspect for scored valve or valve body. If okay, go to next step. If valve or valve body is
scored, clean with emery cloth or replace as necessary. After cleaning or replacing valve or
valve body, go to step 5.
4. Inspect for pitted or fractured spring. If okay, go to next step. If not, replace as necessary. After
replacing spring, go to next step.
5. Assemble oil regulator valve. Remove old gasket material from surfaces. Install oil pressure
regulator valve. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.
Removal
1. Drain engine oil. Remove oil pan. See REMOVAL OF OIL PAN.
2. Remove oil pressure regulator valve and gasket. Lightly tap regulator body to loosen from
gasket and cylinder block.
Disassembly
1. Using a soft jawed vise, clamp the regulator. Remove spring seat retaining pin.
2. Remove spring seat, spring and valve.
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Inspection
1. Clean all components in diesel fuel. Dry components with compressed air.
2. Inspect regulator valve for binding. If oil pressure regulator valve binds, replace it. If oil
pressure regulator valve is okay, reuse it.
3. Inspect valve or valve body for scoring. If scoring on valve or valve body parts cannot be
cleaned up with a fine emery cloth, replace with NEW parts. If scoring can be repaired, reuse
parts.
4. Inspect spring for fractures or pits. Replace if damaged. If spring is okay, reuse spring.
Assembly
1. Apply a coat of clean engine oil to outer face of regulator valve. Installing the closed end first,
slide valve into regulator body. After installing spring in valve, install spring seat and while
compressing spring, push retaining pin in behind spring seat.
2. Make sure the pin is 0.010 in. (0.254 mm) below the surface of valve body.
NOTE:
Valve body has 2 retaining pin holes. Although same casting is

used for both pressure regulator and relief valves, regulator valve
has a slightly larger opening machined into the side. Install pin in
outer most hole (for regulator valve). The inner hole is used for
the pressure relief valve. Retaining pin must be positioned
correctly so proper valve opening pressure will be obtained.
Installation
1. Clean all particles of old gasket material from mating surfaces of cylinder block and regulator
body.
2. Tighten oil pressure regulator valve assembly to cylinder block. Tighten to specification. See
3. Inspect for proper installation. See RUNNING .
OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
1. Drain engine oil. Remove oil pan and gasket. See REMOVAL OF OIL PAN. Remove oil
pressure regulator valve and gasket. See REMOVAL OF OIL PRESSURE REGULATOR
VALVE.
2. Disassemble oil pressure regulator valve. Clean components. Inspect for binding regulator
valve. If valve is okay, go to next step. If valve is binding, replace regulator valve. After
replacing regulator valve, go to step 5.
3. Inspect for scored valve or valve body. If okay, go to next step. If valve or valve body is
scored, clean with emery cloth or replace as necessary. After cleaning or replacing valve or
valve body, go to step 5.
4. Inspect for pitted or fractured spring. Replace as necessary. After replacing spring, go to next
step. If spring is okay, go to next step.
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5. Assemble oil regulator valve. Remove old gasket material from surfaces. Install oil pressure
regulator valve. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.
Removal & Cleaning
1. Remove bolts and washers holding relief valve to engine block.

2. Lightly tap on relief valve body to separate it from gasket and engine block. Remove relief
valve and gasket.
Disassembly
1. Clamp oil pressure relief valve in a soft-jawed vise. Carefully remove spring seat retaining pin
from oil pressure relief valve body. See Fig. 13.
2. Remove valve, spring and spring seat from oil pressure relief valve body. See Fig. 13.
Cleaning
Clean components using diesel fuel and dry with compressed air.
Inspection
1. Inspect to see if oil pressure relief valve moves freely in valve body. If relief valve binds,
replace using NEW parts. If it moves freely, reuse component.
2. Inspect components for scoring, wear or other damage:
Inspect for wear. If wear is excessive, replace component using NEW parts
Inspect for scoring. If scoring is found, try to clean using fine Emory cloth. If scoring is
severe, replace component using NEW parts.
Inspect spring for pits or fractures. If spring is pitted or fractured, replace component
using NEW parts.
Assembly
The oil pressure relief valve body uses 2 retaining pin holes. See Fig. 20. Install pin in OUTER
MOST hole.
Fig. 20: Locating Oil Pressure Regulator Valve & Relief Valve Pin
CAUTION: Retaining pin must be positioned correct hole so proper valve
opening pressure will be obtained. The same valve body is used
for both pressure regulator and relief valves, but regulator valve
has a slightly larger opening machined into the side. See Fig. 20.
1. Coat outer face of valve with clean engine oil. Install valve into oil pressure regulator body
with the closed end first. See Fig. 20. Place spring in valve and install spring seat.
2. During compression of spring, install retaining pin in outer most hole, behind spring seat.
Ensure pin is 0.010 in. (0.254 mm) below the surface of valve body.
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Installation
1. Remove old gasket material from mating surfaces of oil pressure relief valve body and cylinder
block. Install a NEW gasket onto relief valve body.
2. Install oil pressure relief valve assembly to cylinder block using 2 bolts. Tighten bolts to
specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. Inspect for proper oil pressure relief valve
installation. See RUNNING .
OIL FILTER
Replacement
Install NEW oil filters at the following (maximum) intervals or each time engine oil is changed,
whichever comes first:
Truck & Parlor Coach - 15,000 Miles (24,000 Km)

Transit Coach - 6,000 Miles (9,600 Km)
Industrial, Agricultural & Generator Set - 150 hours or one year, whichever comes first
Installation
1. Always fill NEW oil filters with clean engine oil and lightly coat the filter seal/gasket.
2. Install NEW filters onto adaptors until gasket just contacts block, then turn filter an additional
2/3 turn by hand or as indicated on filter.
3. Start engine. Inspect system for oil leaks. Inspect all lubricating oil lines for excess wear and/or
chafing. Replace suspect oil lines as necessary and correct cause of problem. If engine has not
been operated for long periods or turbocharger has been removed or replaced, always prelubricate turbocharger. See ASSEMBLY OF TURBOCHARGER .
OIL FILTER ADAPTOR
1. Remove oil filter adaptor. Clean oil from oil filter adaptor.
2. Inspect bypass valve for binding. If bypass valve is binding, replace bypass valve. If bypass
valve is okay, go to next step. After replacing valve, go to step 5.
3. Inspect for scored valve or filter adaptor bore. If valve or filter adaptor is okay, go to next step.
If valve or filter adaptor is scored, clean with emery cloth or replace as necessary. After
cleaning or replacing valve or valve body, go to step 5.
4. Inspect for pitted or fractured spring. Replace as necessary. After replacing spring, go to next
step. If spring is okay, reuse spring and go to next step.
5. Assemble oil filter adaptor. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.
Removal
NOTE:
Do Not Pre-clean.
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1. Using Snap Ring Pliers (J 23432), remove snap ring. Remove spring and bypass valve (on
engines built prior to 1993). See Fig. 14.
2. On all engines, remove pipe plugs.
Cleaning
Clean all oil filter adaptor components in fuel oil. Dry parts with compressed air.
Inspection
1. Inspect to see if bypass valve binds in adaptor. If bypass valve binds, replace using NEW parts.
If bypass valve moves freely, reuse part.
2. Inspect to see if valve or filter adaptor bore are scored. If parts cannot be repaired using a fine
emery cloth, replace with NEW parts. If valve and filter adaptor bore parts can be cleaned,
reuse parts.
3. If spring is damaged or pitted, replace spring. If spring is okay, reuse spring.
Assembly
1. Place bypass spring and bypass valve into oil filter adaptor. Using Snap Ring Pliers (J 234320),
install snap ring. If oil filter adaptor inserts were removed, reinstall them.
2. Apply Loctite 620 or equivalent to pipe plugs threads. Wipe off any excess sealant on
exposed threads. Tighten all 3 pipe plugs to specification. See TORQUE
SPECIFICATIONS.
3. Lubricate NEW O-rings with petroleum jelly. Install O-rings in oil filter adaptor grooves.
Installation
CAUTION: Failure to tighten oil filter adaptor mounting bolts to specified

torque could lead to an oil leak during operation resulting in
major engine damage.
1. Install oil filter adaptor to cylinder block mounting bolts and tighten to specification. See
2. Install spin-on oil filter(s). See LUBRICATING OIL FILTER . Inspect for proper oil filter
adaptor installation. See RUNNING .
1. Remove thermatic oil control valve. See REMOVAL & CLEANING OF THERMATIC
OIL CONTROL VALVE.
2. Inspect for damaged parts. Replace as necessary. After replacing damaged parts, reinstall
thermatic control valve. If parts are okay, go next step.
3. Test thermatic oil control valve for proper operating range. See TESTING THERMATIC
OIL CONTROL VALVE. If operation is okay, reuse control valve and then reinstall
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thermatic control valve. If operation is not as specified, replace thermatic oil control valve.
After replacing control valve, reinstall control valve.
Removal & Cleaning
CAUTION: Be careful when removing oil filter adaptor assembly, DO NOT

drop thermatic oil control valve, if equipped.
Remove filter adaptor. See REMOVAL OF OIL FILTER ADAPTOR. Remove thermatic oil valve
from adaptor. Clean valve in clean diesel fuel. Use compressed air to dry thermatic oil control valve.
Inspection
Inspect thermatic oil control valve for excess wear or damage. If worn or damaged, replace control
valve. If no damage is found, reuse control valve.
Installation
NOTE:
If thermatic oil control valve is dropped during installation, Make sure

valve is not damaged and is clean before installation. Replace if
necessary.
1. Apply a coat of petroleum jelly on underside of valves upper lip to aid in installation. Place
beveled end of valve into oil filter adaptor.
2. Install oil filter adaptor to engine. Using care not to dislodge thermatic oil control valve from
oil filter adaptor. See ASSEMBLY OF OIL FILTER ADAPTOR. Inspect for proper oil filter
adaptor installation. See RUNNING .
OIL COOLER (1991 & LATER ENGINES)
Repair Or Replace Inspection
1. Drain cooling system. See COOLING SYSTEM . Remove oil cooler. See REMOVAL OF
OIL COOLER. Clean oil cooler.
2. Inspect oil cooler for leaks. If oil leak is found, go to next step. If oil cooler is okay, reuse oil
cooler. Reinstall oil cooler using NEW O-rings and gasket.
3. Replace oil cooler core. Reinstall oil cooler using NEW O-rings and gasket.
Removal
1. Drain coolant by opening drain cocks located on right rear of engine block, and in lower water
pump housing. See COOLING SYSTEM .
2. Remove hose from water pump (at lower neck of oil cooler housing). Ensure alignment marks
are made on cooler core and housing prior to removal to confirm correct reinstallation. Remove
retaining bolts from oil cooler housing and core to oil filter adaptor.
3. Carefully pry oil cooler housing from cylinder block and oil filter adaptor. Separate oil cooler
core and housing. Completely remove all gasket material from housing and oil cooler.
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Cleaning
CAUTION: Do not clean oil cooler when an engine failure released metal
particles from worn or broken parts into the oil. Oil cooler core
must be replaced. Otherwise, major engine damage may result.
1. Remove oil cooler core.
2. Using a solution of 1,1,1-trichloroethylene, flush the core passages with a force pump to
remove sludge, carbon and debris. Don't let core sit for any length of time, clean core before
sludge hardens.
3. If oil passages are severely clogged, flush the core with an alkaline solution and after it is
clean, flush thoroughly with clean, hot water.
To clean outside of core:
A. Mix the following ingredients: Add 1/2 pound of oxalic acid to each 2 1/2 gallons of
solution composed of 1/3 muriatic acid and 2/3 water.
B. Immerse core in the above solution.
C. Carefully watch the process. As soon as bubbling stops (after 30-60 seconds), remove
core from solution.
D. Thoroughly flush core with clean, hot water. Dip in light oil.
Inspection
CAUTION: If leaking oil cooler core has caused contamination of engine oil,
engine must be immediately flushed to prevent corrosion . See
COOLING SYSTEM .
1. Using oil cooler as a template, fabricate a plate and gasket. Use gasket made from rubber to
insure a tight seal. See Fig. 21.
Fig. 21: Preparing Oil Cooler Core For Pressure Test
2. Prior to mounting plate, drill and tap plate and attach an air hose fitting to the inlet side of core.
Attach plate to flanged side of oil cooler core using appropriate fasteners.
3. Attach air hose to air hose fitting on plate. Ensure air pressure is within 75-100 lb/in2 (517-690
kPa). Submerge assembly in a container of hot (180F (82C)). Inspect for air bubbles in water.
If bubbles are present, replace oil cooler core. If no bubbles are present, go to next step.
4. Remove plate and air hose from cooler core and dry using compressed air.
Installation
1. Coat NEW O-rings with a petroleum jelly.

2. Dip "O" ring in ethylene glycol (coolant). Install NEW O-rings in oil filter adaptor and on oil
cooler housing outlet.
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CAUTION: Be careful when installing oil cooler housing to prevent

damaging O-rings on sharp edges of opening in cylinder
block.
3. Install NEW gasket on core face.
4. Install core in housing and then install the assembly onto oil filter adaptor. Install oil cooler
housing bolts and using proper tightening sequence, tighten bolts to specification. See Fig. 22
and TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
Fig. 22: Identifying Oil Cooler Housing Bolt Tightening Sequence (1991 & Later Shown;
Pre 1991 Similar)
5. Install hose and clamp into place at lower neck of oil cooler housing. Ensure clamps are
positioned inside lip on both housing and tube. Secure clamp.
6. Close both draincocks. Fill cooling system. See COOLING SYSTEM .
7. Fill engine oil. See LUBRICATING OIL .
8. Start engine. Inspect for leaks and proper oil cooler installation. See RUNNING .
OIL COOLER (PRE-1991 ENGINES)
1. Drain cooling system. See COOLING SYSTEM . Remove oil cooler. See REMOVAL OF
OIL COOLER. Clean oil cooler.
2. Inspect oil cooler for leaks. If oil leak is found, go to next step. If oil cooler is okay, reuse oil
cooler. Reinstall oil cooler using NEW O-rings and gasket.
3. Replace oil cooler core. Install oil cooler using NEW O-rings and gasket.
Removal
CAUTION: Do not clean oil cooler after an engine failure. The oil cooler core
must be replaced. Otherwise, severe engine damage may result.
1. To drain cooling system, open both drain cocks (at right rear of cylinder block, and in bottom
of water pump housing). Remove hose from water pump at lower neck of oil cooler housing.
2. Place match-marks on oil cooler core to housing to aid in installation. Remove bolts attaching
oil cooler housing and core to cylinder block.
3. Using a pry bar between oil cooler housing and cylinder block, gently pry oil cooler housing
straight out from cylinder block. Avoid damaging cooler housing neck that connects into
cylinder block.
4. Separate components. Remove gasket material from oil cooler and housing.
Cleaning
1. Remove oil cooler core.

2. Using a solution of 1,1,1-trichloroethylene, flush the core passages with a force pump to
08/11/2015
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remove sludge, carbon and debris. Don't let core sit for any length of time, clean core before
sludge hardens.
3. If oil passages are severely clogged, flush the core with an alkaline solution and after it is
clean, flush thoroughly with clean, hot water.
To clean outside of core:
A. Mix the following ingredients: Add 1/2 pound of oxalic acid to each 2 1/2 gallons of
solution composed of 1/3 muriatic acid and 2/3 water.
B. Immerse core in the above solution.
C. Carefully watch the process. As soon as bubbling stops (after 30-60 seconds), remove
core from solution.
D. Thoroughly flush core with clean, hot water. Dip in light oil.
Inspection
CAUTION: If oil cooler core leak has caused engine oil contamination,
engine must be immediately flushed to prevent corrosion to
internal components. See COOLING SYSTEM .
1. Fabricate a plate and gasket using oil cooler as a template. Use gasket made from rubber to
ensure a tight seal.
2. Drill and tap plate and attach an air hose fitting to the inlet side of core. Attach plate to flanged
side of oil cooler core using suitable washers, nuts and bolts. See Fig. 23.
Fig. 23: Preparing Oil Cooler Core For Pressure Test
3. Attach air hose to air hose fitting. Regulate air pressure to 75-100 lb/in2 (517-690 kPa) and
submerge oil cooler and plate assembly in a container of water heated to 180F (82C). Inspect
for air bubbles. If bubbles are present, replace core. If air bubbles are not present, go to next
step.
4. Remove plate and air hose from cooler core. Dry core with compressed air.
Installation
1.
2.
3.
4.
Coat NEW O-rings with petroleum jelly. Install O-rings in counterbores.

Install NEW O-rings on oil cooler housing neck. Coat "O" ring with coolant.
Install NEW "O" ring on oil cooler housing outlet neck.
Install (J 35786) Guide Studs into the threaded holes in cylinder block.
CAUTION: When installing oil cooler housing be careful not to damage
to outlet neck O-rings on sharp edges of cylinder block
opening.
5. Install NEW gasket on face of core that will contact housing. Install core to housing and install
08/11/2015
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assembly on guide studs.

6. Seat oil cooler assembly by striking the snout and lower area with several sharp blows. Install
at least 2 oil cooler housing-to-cylinder block bolts and finger-tighten. Remove guide studs.
7. Install remaining bolts. Tighten bolts to specification and in proper sequence. SeeTORQUE
SPECIFICATIONS and Fig. 24.
Fig. 24: Identifying Oil Cooler Housing Bolt Tightening Sequence (1991 & Later Shown;
Pre 1991 Similar)
8. Using Loctite Pipe Sealer with Teflon PT-7260 (or equivalent) coat pipe plug threads
before installation.
9. Install hose and clamps at lower neck of oil cooler housing. Align and tighten clamps to inside
the lip on both the housing and tube.
10. Close drain cocks in block and water pump housing.
11. Fill cooling system. See COOLING SYSTEM .
12. Fill engine oil. See LUBRICATING OIL .
13. Start engine. Inspect for proper oil cooler installation. See RUNNING .
OIL LEVEL DIPSTICK ASSEMBLY
1. Remove oil dipstick assembly. See REMOVAL OF OIL DIPSTICK ASSEMBLY.

2. Inspect for broken or pinched components. Replace as necessary. After replacing components,
replace copper seal and install oil dipstick assembly. If no other problems are found, reuse
components. Replace copper seal and install oil dipstick assembly.
Removal
1. Remove dipstick from adaptor.

2. Remove oil tube, copper seal, and dipstick adaptor from engine. Discard seal.
Inspection
Inspect dipstick assembly for any damage. Inspect for broken components or pinched parts. Replace
with NEW parts as necessary.
Installation
1. Install dipstick adaptor into cylinder block and tighten to specification. See TORQUE
SPECIFICATIONS.
Fig. 25: Identifying Dipstick Assembly
2. Insert NEW copper seal and thread oil dipstick tube assembly nut into adaptor. While securing
adaptor with a wrench, properly align oil dipstick tube assembly. Tighten nut on tube. Install
08/11/2015
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the dipstick. See Fig. 25.

OIL PAN
1. Drain oil. Remove oil pan and gasket.

2. Clean oil pan. Inspect for major dents or cracks. If oil pan is okay, reuse oil pan. If oil pan is
damaged, replace oil pan.
3. Inspect oil pan gasket. If damaged or cracked, replace gasket. If okay, clean off RTV from oil
pan gasket and reuse gasket. Reinstall oil pan and gasket.
Removal
CAUTION: To prevent damage, do not support engine on oil pan.
NOTE:
On most applications, oil pan can be removed without removing

engine. If engine is to be removed from vehicle, leave oil pan in place
until engine is removed.
CAUTION: When removing a side plug, use a 2-1/8 in. open end wrench to
hold the insert flats to keep it from turning. If it is loosened, oil
pan removal will be necessary to tighten insert nut. Tighten oil
pan insert nut to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
1. Drain engine oil. Remove oil pan bolts, washers, isolators and sleeves or bolt assemblies.
Finally, remove counter bolts on each side of oil pan.
2. Remove pan, avoiding damage to oil pump inlet pipe and screen. Remove and inspect oil pan
isolator seal for damage.
Cleaning
1. Clean oil pan and attaching hardware with diesel fuel. Dry with compressed air.
CAUTION: Solvents will damage the isolators.
2. Clean all oil pan mating surfaces to cylinder block, gear case and flywheel housing.
Inspection
1. Inspect seals for dryness, cracks or tears. Replace as necessary. If isolator is okay, reuse
isolator.
2. Inspect oil pan side plug insert and nut for tightness. If loose, tighten as specified. See
08/11/2015
Page 23 of 25
3. Inspect oil pan for major dents, cracks and other damage. Replace as necessary. If oil pan is
okay, reuse oil pan.
4. Inspect isolator seal for dryness, cracks or tears. Replace as necessary. If seal is okay, clean off
excess RTV and clean seal with clean fuel oil. Dry and reuse parts.
Installation
1. Install raised lip portion of isolator seal into oil pan groove. Push down on isolator seal to
install seal completely. DO NOT stretch or bunch the seal. Start each corner and then at points
halfway between corners. Continue until seal is installed evenly.
2. Insert a metal sleeve spacer into every isolator and washer. Install oil pan bolts into isolator
assemblies or install bolt assemblies.
3. Ensure ALL surfaces are cleaned and there is no damage to prevent sealing.
4. Apply a 1/8" (3 mm) bead of RTV across joints. Install oil pan assembly on engine block.
5. Make sure isolator seal has not been moved. Tighten pan bolts to specifications and in proper
tightening sequence. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS and Fig. 26.
Fig. 26: Identifying Oil Pan Bolt Tightening Sequence
NOTE:
Coat pipe plug threads with Loctite PT 7271 sealant (or

equivalent) and install and tighten magnetic oil drain plug. See
6. Install and tighten any other plugs that were removed.

7. Refill engine with oil. See LUBRICATING OIL .
8. Start engine. Inspect for proper oil pan installation. See RUNNING .
VENTILATING SYSTEM
1. Remove and clean valve cover and breather. Inspect for pinched or worn components. Replace
as necessary. If components are okay, go to next step.
2. Install NEW valve cover gasket. Install valve cover.
Removal
1. Remove valve cover. See REMOVAL AND CLEANING OF ONE-PIECE ROCKER

COVER FOR DIESEL ENGINES ONLY , REMOVAL AND CLEANING OF TWOPIECE ROCKER COVER FOR DIESEL ENGINES ONLY or REMOVAL AND
CLEANING OF THREE-PIECE ROCKER COVER FOR DIESEL ENGINES ONLY .
2. If engine has a gear case cover breather, remove breather-oil fill housing and retainer. See Fig.
27 and Fig. 28
Fig. 27: Locating Breather Oil Fill Housing Bolts
08/11/2015
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Fig. 28: Exploded View Of Gear Case Cover-Mounted Breather Housing

3. If engine has a breather mounted on housing, remove baffle and end retainer on breather
housing. See Fig. 29. Remove breather housing seal and wire mesh element.
Fig. 29: Breather Housing Mounted Breather
4. If engine has a valve cover mounted breather, press center of spring steel retaining clip
outward and disengage the straight end from valve cover. Rotate clip upward and remove clip.
Remove wire mesh element from valve cover.
Inspection
Inspect ventilating system for pinched, broken, worn and unclean parts. Replace damaged parts as
necessary.
Cleaning
Wash components in clean diesel fuel. Dry with compressed air.

Installation
1. Install element in breather housing, screws and retainer to breather housing. Tighten screws to
specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. Install NEW gasket, breather and oil fill
housing and bolts on gear case cover. Tighten bolts to specification and using proper torque
sequence. See Fig. 27.
2. Install breather housing mounted breather as follows:
A. Install element in breather housing and breather housing in valve cover.
B. Install retainer.
C. Place baffle on retainer with flat bolting flanges against the retainer.
NOTE:
The baffle must be installed with bolting flanges against

retainer.
D. Install screws into baffle and tighten to specification. See TORQUE

SPECIFICATIONS.
3. Install element in valve cover. Install retaining clip in valve cover by installing curved end in
valve cover and then straight end.
4. Install valve covers. See INSTALLATION OF ONE-PIECE ROCKER COVER or
INSTALLATION OF TWO-PIECE AND THREE-PIECE ROCKER COVERS .
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
NOTE:
Proper bolt and nut torque is dependent on fastener size. See TORQUE
SPECIFICATIONS - FASTENERS . Except for the M10 x 1.5 oil pan-to-
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block bolts, tighten these bolts to 18-22 ft. lbs. (24-30 N.m). For other
tightening specification, see TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application
Oil Cooler Housing Assembly-To-Oil Filter Adaptor Bolt
Oil Dipstick Adaptor
Oil Fill Housing Bolt
Oil Filter Adaptor Mounting Bolt
2-Element Adaptor
3-Element Adaptor
Oil Filter Adaptor Pipe Plugs
Oil Pan Bolt
Oil Pan Drain Plug
Oil Pan Pipe Plug
Oil Pan Side Plug Insert Nut
Oil Pressure Regulator Valve-To-Engine Block Bolt
Oil Pump Cover Bolt
Oil Pump Mounting Bolt
Oil Pump Elbow-To-Block Bolt
Oil Pump Elbow-To-Pump Bolt
Oil Pump Inlet Pipe-To-Support Bracket Bolt
Oil Pump Pick-Up Tube Support Bracket-To-Engine Block Bolt
Oil Pump Thru-Bolt
Oil Pressure Relief Valve Assembly Bolt
INCH Lbs.
Breather Housing Screw
Ft. Lbs. (N.m)

22-28 (30-38)
16 (22)
22-28 (30-38)
43-54 (58-73)
22-28 (30-38)
95-119 (129-161)
18-22 (24-30)
33-41 (45-56)
33-41 (45-56)
137-147 (186-199)
22-28 (30-38)
22-28 (30-38)
43-49 (58-66)
22-28 (30-38)
22-28 (30-38)
43-54 (58-73)
43-54 (58-73)
22-28 (30-38)
22-28 (30-38)
22 (2.5)

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08/11/2015

DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

Lubrication system consists of the following components.

Fig. 7: Lubrication System Schematic

There is a "T" fitting in air compressor drive assembly on early

constant oil pressure

Series 60G automotive engine uses a closed crankcase breather

ASSEMBLED OIL PUMP

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

To determine what repairs are needed, see OIL PUMP - INSPECTION.

1. Drain engine oil. See LUBRICATING OIL .

CAUTION: Thru-bolts must be loosened first.

Inspect positions of all components to facilitate reassembly of pump.

Assembly (1991 & Later Engines)

A minimum load of 1515 lbs. must be obtained when pressing

A minimum load of 2000 lbs. must be reached when pressing

CAUTION: Binding oil pump concern must be corrected before

Engine must be in an upright position for this measurement.

Valve body has 2 retaining pin holes. Although same casting is

1. Remove bolts and washers holding relief valve to engine block.

Truck & Parlor Coach - 15,000 Miles (24,000 Km)

CAUTION: Failure to tighten oil filter adaptor mounting bolts to specified

CAUTION: Be careful when removing oil filter adaptor assembly, DO NOT

If thermatic oil control valve is dropped during installation, Make sure

1. Coat NEW O-rings with a petroleum jelly.

CAUTION: Be careful when installing oil cooler housing to prevent

1. Remove oil cooler core.

Coat NEW O-rings with petroleum jelly. Install O-rings in counterbores.

assembly on guide studs.

1. Remove oil dipstick assembly. See REMOVAL OF OIL DIPSTICK ASSEMBLY.

1. Remove dipstick from adaptor.

the dipstick. See Fig. 25.

1. Drain oil. Remove oil pan and gasket.

CAUTION: To prevent damage, do not support engine on oil pan.

On most applications, oil pan can be removed without removing

Coat pipe plug threads with Loctite PT 7271 sealant (or

6. Install and tighten any other plugs that were removed.

1. Remove valve cover. See REMOVAL AND CLEANING OF ONE-PIECE ROCKER

Fig. 28: Exploded View Of Gear Case Cover-Mounted Breather Housing

Wash components in clean diesel fuel. Dry with compressed air.

The baffle must be installed with bolting flanges against

D. Install screws into baffle and tighten to specification. See TORQUE

Ft. Lbs. (N.m)

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