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4. US elections

US election 2016: The 3 billion, two-year

long polling process that could put Donald
Trump in the White House
Rupert Cornwell, on how attempts to reform the way the US elects its President have failed
Republican presidential candidate Donald Trump acknowledges photographers after speaking
at a campaign rally in Baton Rouge, La. AP Photo/Gerald Herbert
Is the American way of electing presidents crazy? Lets answer that question with another
question. Would anyone in their right mind settle on a process that costs $5bn (3.5bn), lasts
for two years, in which you dont even vote directly for your preferred candidate, in which
turnout hasnt topped 60 per cent in half a century and which might end up sending Donald
Trump to the White House?
The answer plainly is no. But thats the process Americas got. Every attempt to modify it not
that there have been very many of consequence has failed. So here we are again, in the
midst of the gaudiest, most inefficient rite of democracy on earth, fought under rules laid
down almost 230 years ago but in which, in practice, anything goes.
The campaign begins virtually the moment the last vote has been cast in the previous
Congressional mid-term elections and even before that an aspiring candidate may be quietly
putting the bones of a campaign together, lining up donors and so on.

It is argued that in a presidential system a protracted process is required. After all, a candidate
may be a virtual unknown (see Jimmy Carter in 1975), unlike in a parliamentary system like
Britains where a potential prime minister usually has served in the Commons, and maybe
government, for a decade or more. In the US a long campaign, it is said, proves the mettle of
the man, flushing out his strengths, his weaknesses, the skeletons in his cupboard. But two
years?
Further disorder is built into the system by the confederal nature of the US. An American
presidential election is not one election but an amalgam of 50 elections, conducted by
individual states that jealously cling to their right to organise them as they see fit, right down
to their own voting hours, and ballot papers. Remember those hanging chads and butterfly
ballots in Florida 2000? But more of that later.

The media
Then theres the media. As this 2016 cycle has proved, the election is part of the
entertainment business. The more outrageous the candidate (see Mr Trump), the more the
coverage. TV ratings for debates have never been higher not because of a newly discovered
yearning to learn about issues, but in the hope of a dust-up between candidates.

Its not about foreign policy, or the ins and outs of education reform, but personality: who
would you rather have a beer with? Its a horse race, not a policy seminar, driven by half a
dozen polls a day. For the networks, all this means money. So why not drag it out as long as
possible?

The money
Ah yes, money. 2016 will beat all spending records: $5bn maybe more, now that a Supreme
Court ruling has removed virtually every constraint, in the name of free speech. True, theres a
body named the Federal Election Commission thats supposed to control the money side of
things. But the FEC is a toothless tiger, permanently deadlocked like Washington in general
between its three Democratic and three Republican members. Dysfunctional? Its worse than
dysfunctional, says its former chairwoman, Ann Ravel.

1. Travel
2. 48 Hours In

Budapest travel tips: Where to go and

what to see in 48 hours
Split in half by the Danube, the Hungarian capital offers an intriguing combination of history
and culture, both historic and modern

Nick Boulos
Friday 22 January 2016
4 comments

Cross over: Szechenyi Chain Bridge spans the Danube Paul Thuysbaert
Travel essentials
Why go now?
The weather might be chilly, but the Hungarian capital is warming up with some of its most
interesting events. The annual Farsang carnival continues until 10 February with balls and
parades held across the city, closely followed by food festivals celebrating the mangalica (the
native curly-haired pig) and the Budapest Fish Festival honouring the popular halaszle (fish
soup).
Touch down
Several airlines fly to Budapest from the UK. I travelled with British Airways (0844 493
0787; ba.com), which flies daily from Heathrow. Norwegian (0330 828 0856; Norwegian.com)
and easyJet (0843 104 5000; easyjet.com) operate from Gatwick, while Wizz Air (0907 292
0102; wizzair.com) flies from Birmingham, Glasgow, Liverpool and Luton. Ryanair (0871 246
0000;ryanair.com) flies from Bristol, Manchester and Stansted.
Flights arrive at Ferenc Liszt airport, named after the much-loved composer who died in 1886,
located 22km south-east of the city centre. Public bus 200E will take you from outside the

terminal to Kobanya-Kispest metro station, where you can hop on the M3 line. Buses depart
roughly every 8-20 minutes between 4.15am and 12.20am: the total journey time to the
central Deak Ferenc ter station (1) is about an hour. Purchase a one-way transfer ticket,
valid for one hour, from the machine outside for 530 forints (1). Alternatively, take a taxi for
around 7,500Ft/18.

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Get your bearings
Located on a sweeping bend of the Danube River, Budapest was born in 1873 with the union
of Buda on the west bank and Pest on the east. The two districts were first linked in 1849 by
the iconic Szechenyi Chain Bridge. Long before that, however, the area was occupied by the
Turks, who stayed for more than 150 years from 1526.
Today, Buda and Pest retain their individual personalities: the former is atmospheric and
medieval, while the latter is modern and bohemian, with long boulevards, ring roads and
interesting neighbourhoods. Together, they form an irresistible whole, a city that delivers for
those seeking history and culture.
The main tourist information office (2) is at Suto utca 2 (00 36 1 438 8080; budapestinfo.hu;
open 8am to 8pm daily). A 48-hour Budapest card, providing free public transport and
discounts for museums, costs 7,900Ft (19).
Check in
Housed in a former palace, the Four Seasons hotel (3) at Szechenyi Istvan 5-6 (00 36 1 268
6000; fourseasons.com) has all the luxury you'd expect comfy rooms, attentive service and a
fancy restaurant but it's the river views that are really worth shouting about. Doubles from
80,612Ft (196), room only.
Across the water in Pest is the riverside Art'otel (4) at Bem Rakpart 16-19 (00 36 1 487
9487; artotels.com) with 166 contemporary rooms decorated with art by the American painter
Donald Sultan. It's a short stroll to the Szechenyi Chain Bridge. B&B doubles start at 45,000Ft
(107).
The Maverick City Lodge (5) at Kazinczy utca 24-26 (00 36 1 700 4598; mavericklodges.com)
is cheap and cheerful. Located in the heart of the lively Jewish Quarter, its rooms are small but
stylish, with a minimalist feel and cityscape photography. Double rooms from 12,650Ft (30),
room only.

Day one
Take a view
Gellert Hill (6) stands 235m above the city and offers an unrivalled vantage point of the
Danube, the Buda Hills, Pest and the distant mountain ranges. Take a look at the old walls of
the citadel, built in the 1800s, as well as the Liberty statue.

Take a hike
Head to nearby Castle Hill, the medieval hilltop district that was once the seat of Hungarian
royalty. It is a charming enclave with galleries, design stores, canary yellow houses and a
network of underground caves and cellars.
Start at Szent Gyorgy (7), a small square between the Royal Palace and Sandor Palace, the
official residence of the president. From here, stroll west along the sunken excavations of the
original foundations before veering left along Toth Arpad Setany. Follow this pedestrianised,
tree-lined avenue before turning right on to Szentharomsag utca.
Pause briefly at the statue of nobleman Andras Hadik on horseback before ducking into
Ruszwurm (8). Dating from 1826, it's a cosy caf serving homemade dobostorta (550Ft/1), a
layered sponge cake of chocolate and caramel. Continue straight towards Matthias Church and
Fisherman's Bastion (9), a popular lookout where fishermen once sold their catch.
Lunch on the run
Enjoy a bowl of Hungarian fish soup (2,180Ft/5) at Pest-Buda (10) at Fortuna utca 3 (00 36 1
225 0377; pestbudabistro.hu; noon to 10.30pm daily), a bistro housed in a former inn.
Window shopping
The best market is Ecseri Piac (11) at Nagykorosi utca 156 (open 6am to 3pm Saturdays, to
1pm Sundays), one of the largest flea markets in Europe. It's a little way out but well worth the
effort.
Closer to the centre is the 1897 Central Market Hall (12) at Vamhaz korut 1-3 (6am to 6pm
Monday to Saturday). It's packed with Hungarian delicacies, from Tokaji wine to paprika
sausages.
An aperitif
Szimpla Kert (13) at Kazinczy utca 14 (00 36 20 261 8669;szimpla.hu; noon to 4am daily) is
the most famous of the city's ruin bars (drinking dens in abandoned buildings). It's a bustling
spot with graffiti covered walls and bizarre knick-knacks. Order a pint of Kazinczy (550Ft/1), a
craft beer that's brewed locally.
Novel cocktails can be found at Kollazs Bar (3), part of the Four Seasons hotel (11am to 1am).
The Viktoria's Secret (2,900Ft/7) a sweet tipple of gin, cherry brandy and blueberry
marmalade is served in a teacup.
Dine with the locals
Book a table at swanky Aszu (14) at Sas utca 4 (00 36 1 328 0360;aszurestaurant.com; noon
to midnight daily), where classic dishes are given a modern makeover. There's goulash soup,
too. Mains from 3,900Ft (9).
Down the road at No 17 is Caf Kor (15) (00 36 6 1 311 0053; 10am to 10pm Monday to
Saturday), a relaxed restaurant with an extensive list of specials including homemade soups,
hearty Hungarian mains and stodgy puddings. The chicken fillet with parsley potatoes and
peach compote (2,290Ft/5.50) comes recommended.

Feeling Hungary: Central Market Hall is full of local produce (Corbis)

Day two
Sunday morning: go to church

Half a century in the making and decked out in red marble, the basilica of St Stephen's (16) at
Szent Istvan ter 1 (00 36 1 311 0839; open 9am to 5pm daily; free) is named after the first
king of Hungary. His mummified right hand can be seen in the Holy Right Chapel (open 10am
to 4pm Monday to Saturday; 1pm to 4.30pm Sunday).
Out to brunch
Tuck into a traditional Hungarian breakfast (1,650 Ft/4) of mangalica sausage, cottage
cheese, boiled eggs and ratatouille amid the Art Deco splendour of Szamos (17) at Vaci utca 1
(00 36 30 565 5971; szamosmarcipan.hu; 10am to 9pm daily).
Cultural afternoon
Delve into the darkest chapter of Budapest's history at the House of Terror (18) at Andrassy
utca 60 (00 36 1 374 2600;terrorhaza.hu; 10am to 6pm Tuesday to Sunday; 2,000Ft/5), which
looks at Hungary's role in the Second World War. Then, head to the riverside for a look at
Shoes on the Danube (19), a sobering memorial to murdered Jews.
Lighten the mood with a visit to the Hungarian Parliament building (20) at Kossuth ter 1-3 (00
36 1 441 4000; parliament.hu; 8am to 4pm daily; tours 2,000Ft/5). Its greatest treasure is the
Holy Crown of Hungary worn by more than 50 kings.
A walk in the park
At City Park (21), Kos Karoly utca (open 24 hours), you'll find an ice rink that's a boating lake in
warmer months, as well as Vajdahunyad Castle and the most celebrated of Budapest's thermal
baths, the neo-Baroque Szechenyi Thermal Bath (22) at Allatkerti krt 9-11 (00 36 30 462
8236; szechenyibath.com; 6am to 7pm daily; from 4,900Ft/12) has 18 indoor and outdoor
pools heated to 38C.
Take a ride
Meander along the Danube and visit Margaret Island (23), the city's Central Park. Legenda
cruises (00 36 1 317 2203; legenda.hu) cost from 3,900Ft (9.40) and depart from dock No 7
(24).