Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Coastal Engineering
j o u r n a l h o m e p a g e : w w w. e l s ev i e r. c o m / l o c a t e / c o a s t a l e n g
Department of Civil Engineering, Tohoku University, 6-6-06 Aoba, Sendai 980-8579, Japan
Department of Ocean Engineering, Faculty of Marine Technology, Institut Teknologi Sepuluh Nopember (ITS), Surabaya 60111, Indonesia
a r t i c l e
i n f o
Article history:
Received 7 January 2011
Received in revised form 8 July 2011
Accepted 13 July 2011
Available online 12 August 2011
Keywords:
Solitary wave
Boundary layer
Generation system
Transition
Turbulent ow
a b s t r a c t
Understanding of sea bottom boundary layer characteristics, especially bottom shear stress acting on the sea
bed, is an important step needed in sediment transport modeling for practical application purposes. In the
present study, a new generation system for bottom boundary layer under solitary wave is proposed.
Applicability of this system is examined by comparing measured and numerical solution velocities. Moreover,
transitional behavior from laminar to turbulence was investigated. It is concluded that the critical Reynolds
number in the experiments shows good agreement with DNS result of Vittori and Blondeaux (2008) and
laboratory data of Sumer et al. (2010), indicating validity of the generation system. Since the present
generation system enables continuous measurement to obtain ensemble averaged quantities, it can be
effectively utilized for future experimental studies on solitary wave boundary layers, including sediment
transport experiments with movable bed.
2011 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.
1. Introduction
Bottom boundary layer under wave motion has crucial importance
in the analyses and modeling of nearshore sediment transport.
Solitary wave with narrow crests without trough has been often
used as an approximation of surface prole of ocean water waves
propagating in shoaling water area. Moreover, a tsunami wave
approaching shallow water can also be frequently replaced with
solitary wave to a rst approximation. Both laboratory and numerical
experiments of bottom boundary layer under periodical non-linear
waves have been done by many researchers (e.g. Lee and Cheungk,
1999; Lin and Zhang, 2008; Suntoyo et al., 2008; Suntoyo and Tanaka,
2009a). However, only several researchers have conducted experimental and theoretical studies to describe the wave boundary layer
under solitary wave motion.
First theoretical study on the viscous damping under solitary wave
was done by Keulegan (1948). Later, Tanaka et al. (1998) converted
Keulegan's solution into a form with temporal variation to investigate
an asymptotic behavior of cnoidal wave boundary layers at high Ursel
numbers. Recently, Liu et al. (2006, 2007) examined the boundary
layer characteristics for laminar ow under solitary wave using Liu
and Orla's solution (2004) and compared with laboratory experiments measured by a particle image velocimetry (PIV). In recent
= H=h
Corresponding author. Tel./fax: +81 22 795 7451.
E-mail addresses: tanaka@tsunami2.civil.tohoku.ac.jp (H. Tanaka),
bwinarta@yahoo.co.id (B. Winarta), suntoyo@oe.its.ac.id (Suntoyo),
yamaji@kasen.civil.tohoku.ac.jp (H. Yamaji).
0378-3839/$ see front matter 2011 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.
doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.07.003
=
q
p
2h = gh = h
(a)
47
(b)
Fig. 1. Range of experimental and numerical studies on solitary wave boundary layer
(a) * relationship, (b) Rah / l relationship.
in which H: the wave height, h: the water depth in case of wave ume
or half of the closed conduit tunnel height in case of oscillating tunnel,
: the kinematic viscosity of the uid and g: the gravitational
acceleration. Meanwhile, in Fig. 1(b), Ra is the Reynolds number dened by Sumer et al. (2010) as,
Ra
am Uc
in which Uc is the maximum velocity under wave crest, and am the half
of the stroke of the water particle displacement, being similar to one
used for sinusoidal wave boundary layers (e.g., Jensen et al., 1989).
Furthermore, 1 is the conventional Stokes layer thickness dened by
Sumer et al. (2010). It is noted that conventional Reynolds number Ra
is expressed in terms of and * as shown by Vittori and Blondeaux
(2011).
3=2
4
Ra p 2
3
zg t
zg max
where U(t) is the horizontal velocity in the closed conduit far from the
downstream gate, zg(t) is the height of opening of the gate as
illustrated in Fig. 3. Fig. 4 explains the operational system of a rotating
disk in the experimental generation system. At t = /2, the
downstream gate will be starting to open or beginning of periodical
motion, in which is the angular frequency of the rotating disk given
by 2/T (T: the period of rotation). Then at t = 0, the downstream
gate will fully open (zg(t) = zg max), it means that the peak of
periodical velocity arrives (U(t) = Uc). Subsequently, the downstream
gate will close gradually up to t = /2 and it is the end of periodical
motion.
It should be noted here that the ow motion generated by the
present mechanism is not purely solitary, but periodical consists of
solitary-wave-like positive peaks and tranquil period in between two
peaks. Because of this characteristic, the present generation system
facilitates measurements of statistical properties obtained by phase
48
1.0
Overflows
head tank
0.5
0.0
Downstream gate
130
U/Uc
10
Section A'-A'
/2
Measurement
position
/2
15
Downstream gate
Downstream gate
A'
.
Downstream gate
3 52
3 52
A'
400
35
,18
2,1
z g (t) = 0
unit : cm
Flow
Flow
z g (t) = z g
,18
z g (t) = z g max
Bearing
Plate
Rotating disc
Downstream gate
zg t =
q
2
b2 cos t +a2 sin2 t a for=2< t<=2
zg t = 0
6a
Fig. 2. Sketch of experimental set-up, (a) Closed conduit, (b) Movement of downstream
gate.
where a is the radius of the half circle, which is equal to the length of
semiminor axis of the ellipse and b is the semimajor axis of the ellipse
as shown in Fig. 5. Further, the denition of the phase angle based on
the direction of the disk is denoted in the gure.
Downstream gate
at t = 0
U (t)
z g max
z g (t )
Fig. 5. Rotating disk consists of semicircle and half ellipse (Disk 1).
49
Substituting Eqs. (6a) and (6b) into Eq. (5) and after simple
mathematical manipulation, the time-variation of horizontal velocity
in a closed conduit can be easily obtained as follows.
U t
=
Uc
q
b2 cos2 t + sin2 t 1
b 1
U t
=0
Uc
for=2< t<=2
7a
7b
where b* = b/a .
Time-variation of horizontal velocity induced by the present
generation method as in Eqs. (7a) and (7b) is illustrated in Fig. 6 for
various values of b* from 1.1 to 4.0. The dependence of the timevariation on b* is slightly seen and higher b* value creates ow motion
with higher acceleration at t = /2.
By combining Eq. (5) with Eq. (8), the following equation can be
obtained.
zg t
U t
2
=
= sech t
zg max
Uc
11
for=2< t<=2
12a
zd t =a
12b
U = Uc sech t
where
9
=a1 c
s
3H
a1 =
4h3
10
where zd(t) is distance from the center of the disk to the edge at t.
The corresponding shape of the disk is illustrated in Fig. 7. The convex
shape circumscribing the circle reects the mathematical function
given by the theory, Eq. (8).
According to Eq. (8), it takes innite time for the velocity to reach
U = 0. For practical purposes, however, the time required for
substantial decay of the velocity can be dened such that U = U
(t = /2)/UC = 0.01, 0.001 etc. (e.g., Kobayashi and Karjadi, 1994).
From Eq. (8), the relationship between U and is obtained as,
p
2
1
U :
sech
13
Table 1
Relationship between U = U(t = /2)/UC and .
0.05
0.01
0.005
0.001
0.0005
0.0001
1.386
1.905
2.126
2.630
2.861
3.373
50
1-1
2-1
2-2
2-3
4-4
Disk
Disk
Disk
Disk
Disk
T (s)
1
2
2
2
2
16.48
16.78
16.90
15.36
16.99
(cm2/s)
0.0100
0.0100
0.0116
0.0116
0.0114
(s-1)
Uc
(cm/s)
27.0
42.6
78.7
78.5
81.3
14
Re
Uc
:
15
d= Uc sech t =
2Uc
:
Experimental condition
S:single
From Eqs. (8) and (11), the relationship between and can be
analytically obtained.
=:
Re
16
Fitting
0.500
0.790
0.950
0.880
0.810
0.984
0.977
1.075
0.972
P:periodical
1.46 105
2.25 105
5.64 105
6.06 105
7.34 105
P
P
S, P
S, P
S, P
51
U (cm/s)
50
40
Experiment
Eq. (8)
Eqs. (7a) and (7b)
30
20
10
0
0
10
15
20
25
30
t (s)
Fig. 9. Measured free stream velocity generated by Disk 1 (Case 11).
(a)
(b)
(c)
(d)
52
(a)
(b)
(c)
(a)
(b)
(c)
(d)
53
54
(a)
(a)
(b)
(b)
.
2:9
= p
am
Re
17
5. Conclusion
A new generation system for solitary wave boundary layer has
been applied in laboratory experiment for various values of
Reynolds number. Validations of the system have been done in
terms of free stream velocity, single and periodical oscillatory
motion measurements and also time variation of velocity distribution. Furthermore, the critical Reynolds number obtained from this
study shows good agreement with the nding of previous researchers. The development of the present new generation system
should lead to further experimental study on turbulent structure
and related phenomena such as sediment movement by facilitating
ensemble averaging.
Notations
a
a1
am
b
b*
d
(a)
(a)
(b)
(b)
c
h
Wave celerity
Water depth in case of wave ume or half of the closed
conduit tunnel height in case of oscillating tunnel
Wave height
Reynolds number (Eq. (15))
Reynolds number (Eq. (3))
Time
Period of a rotating disk
Flow velocity
Free stream velocity
Maximum of free stream velocity
a1c
Parameter dened in Eq. (13)
Boundary layer thickness
q
p
2h = gh = h
Ratio of H and h
Fluid viscosity
Oscillation frequency
H
Re
Ra
t
T
u
U
Uc
55
Acknowledgments
This research was partially supported by Grant-in-Aid for Scientic
Research from Japan Society for Promotion of Science (No.22360193),
56
References
Hino, M., Sawamoto, M., Takasu, S., 1976. Experiments on transition to turbulence in an
oscillatory pipe ow. J. Fluid Mech. 75, 193207.
Ippen, A.T., Kulin, G., 1957. The effects of boundary resistance on the solitary wave. La
Houille Blanche 3, 390407.
Jensen, B., Sumer, B.M., Fredse, J., 1989. Turbulent oscillatory boundary layers at high
Reynolds numbers. J. Fluid Mech. 206, 265297.
Jonsson, I.G., 1966. Wave boundary layers and friction factors. Proc. 10th Conf. Coastal
Eng. , pp. 127148.
Keulegan, G.H., 1948. Gradual damping of solitary waves. RP1895, 40. U.S. Department
of Commerce, National Bureau of Standards, pp. 487498.
Kobayashi, N., Karjadi, E.A., 1994. Surf-similarity parameter for breaking solitary-wave
runup. J. Waterw. Port Coast. Ocean Eng. 120 (6), 645650.
Lee, S.-K., Cheungk, F., 1999. Laminar and turbulent bottom boundary layer induced by
nonlinear water waves. J. Hydraul. Eng. 125 (6), 631644.
Lee, J.J., Skjelbreia, E., Raichlen, F., 1982. Measurement of velocities in solitary waves. J.
Waterw. Port Coast. Ocean Eng. 108, 200218.
Lin, P., Zhang, W., 2008. Numerical simulation of wave-induced laminar boundary
layers. Coast. Eng. 55 (5), 400408.
Liu, P.L.-F., Orla, A., 2004. Viscous effects on transient long-wave propagation. J. Fluid
Mech. 520, 8392.
Liu, P.L.-F., Simarro, G., Vandever, J., Orla, A., 2006. Experimental and numerical
investigation of viscous effectcs on solitary wave propagatation in a wave tank.
Coast. Eng. 53, 181190.
Liu, P.L.-F., Park, Y.S., Cowen, E.A., 2007. Boundary layer ow and bed shear stress under
a solitary wave. J. Fluid Mech. 574, 449463.
Naheer, E., 1977. Stability of bottom armoring under the attack of solitary waves. Water
Resour. Rep KH-R, 34. Calif. Inst. Technol. WM Keck Lab Hydraul.
Naheer, E., 1978. The damping of solitary waves. J. Hydraul. Res. 16 (3), 235248.
Sana, A., Tanaka, H., 2007. Full-range equation for wave boundary layer thickness.
Coast. Eng. 54 (8), 639642.
Sleath, J.F.A., 1987. Turbulent oscillatory ow over rough beds. J. Fluid Mech. 182,
369409.
Sumer, B.M., Jensen, P.M., Srensen, L.B., Fredse, J., Liu, P.L.-F., Cartesen, S., 2010.
Coherent structures in wave boundary layers. Part 2. Solitary motion. J. Fluid Mech.
646, 207231.
Suntoyo, Tanaka, H., 2009a. Effect of bed roughness on turbulent boundary layer and
net sediment transport under asymmetric waves. Coast. Eng. 56 (9), 960969.
Suntoyo, Tanaka, H., 2009b. Numerical modeling of boundary layer ows for a solitary
wave. J. Hydro-Environ. Res. 3 (3), 129137.
Suntoyo, Tanaka, H., Sana, A., 2008. Characteristics of turbulent boundary layers over
rough bed under saw-tooth waves and its application to sediment transport. Coast.
Eng. 55 (12), 11021112.
Synolakis, C.E., 1987. The runup of solitary waves. J. Fluid Mech. 185, 523545.
Tanaka, H., Thu, A., 1994. Full-range equation of friction coefcient and phase difference
in a wave-current boundary layer. Coast. Eng. 22, 237254.
Tanaka, H., Sumer, B.M., Lodahl, C., 1998. Theoretical and experimental investigation on
laminar boundary layers under cnoidal wave motion. Coast. Eng. J. 40 (1), 8198.
Vittori, G., Blondeaux, P., 2008. Turbulent boundary layer under a solitary wave. J. Fluid
Mech. 615, 433443.
Vittori, G., Blondeaux, P., 2011. Characteristics of the boundary layer at the bottom of a
solitary wave. Coast. Eng. 58, 206213.