Ranger AuRanger Auto Hub Washer Fix With Picturesto Hub Washer Fix With Pictures

Auto Hub Washer Fix With Pictures - Explorer Ranger Enthusiast Forum
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Welcome, BobK.
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12-282005,
03:40 PM
BobK
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#1
mhtml:file://E:\Bob's Documents\Automotive\Ford Ranger\Ranger Hub\Ranger Auto Hub Washer Fix With Pictures.mht
3/8/2010
Wannabe
Elite
Explorer
Central
CA
1997
XLT
Join
Date:
Aug
2005
Posts:
15
Page 2 of 36
See original discussion at: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21469. I probably won't have

my picture server after 2006, so I recommend you save the pictures now or perhaps a moderator can put this in the
tech section and host the pictures on the main server. (Edit: Pictures are rehosted below.)
I took some pictures while performing the "Beertime9 Washer Fix" on the automatic hubs of my '97 Ranger.
Many folks have noticed problems with their auto hubs, but upon disassembly they can find nothing blatantly wrong
with the hubs. Symptoms include a popping or loud pinging sound while 4x4 is engaged or a grinding sound when you
attempt to engage 4x4. The sounds are an indication that the hub will not engage or stay fully engaged.
Don discovered that the pot metal cam on the spline gear and the plastic ring inside the hub that the pot metal cam
rubs against can wear over time. As they wear down, the cam can no longer push the internal hub mechanism in far
enough to engage the hub gears. Wear seems to be only about 1/32" to 1/16", but it's enough to prevent the internal
hub splines from engaging, which are only about 3/8" wide to begin with. Ford will tell you that there are no
serviceable parts inside the hub. However, adding a washer between the pot metal cam and the plastic ring seems to
replace the worn material and allow the auto hub to engage properly.
3/8/2010
Page 3 of 36
3/8/2010
Page 4 of 36
3/8/2010
Page 5 of 36
Here are a couple schematics of the auto hub, although they don't show the guts of the hub. Notice the "cam
assembly". That is not the cam I address below.
3/8/2010
Page 6 of 36
When the hub is off, look at the aluminum cam (with the three fingers on it). Measure how much space there is
between the top of the cam and the top of the spline gear (blue circle). It's about 1/16" in this picture. Your objective
is to add a thick enough washer to bring the cam just about flush with the top of the spline gear. Obviously, you don't
want it tight. Give it a little wiggle room so that it won't be under pressure when you reinstall the hub. (The picture
below shows this same space circled in blue so that you can more easily see what I'm talking about. Of course, you
can only take this measurement while the cam and spline gear are installed.) Start by removing the snap ring. You'll
see it at the bottom. It's the only thing holding the spline gear and pot metal cam in. Once you have the snap ring off,
turn the hub over and thump it on a wooden or padded surface. The only thing holding the spline gear in now is
friction with the center post and crud, so sooner or later, it'll fall out.
3/8/2010
Page 7 of 36
This is the internal spline with the cam on top. The screwdriver is pointing to little nubs on the tops of the splines. The
nubs prevent the cam from coming off the top. It has to slide off the bottom. The blue circle is to exaggerate the gap
3/8/2010
Page 8 of 36
you'll be measuring while the cam and spline gear are installed.
If you look down inside the hub with the spline gear removed, you'll see the plastic ring. It is held in place by a round
metal snap ring (red circle). This is as far as you can disassemble the hub without a press. To disassemble it further,
you have to compress the plastic ring (and subsequently the huge spring at the bottom of the hub) far enough to get
the round metal snap ring out. The screwdriver is pointing to the wear on the plastic ring. Can you say "planned
obsolescence"??!!. What numbskull at Ford decided to use plastic instead of metal? The blue circle indicates the two
sets of teeth that engage the outer teeth on the spline gear. When these two sets of teeth mesh, you're in 4x4. See
below for a deeper explanation.
3/8/2010
Page 9 of 36
On the bottom surface of the cam, you can see the rounded spot that wore into the plastic ring (blue circle). Although
I asked some questions in the original thread about whether or not the little teeth sticking up (red circle) were the
result of wear, I'm now convinced that the cam was manufactured this way. I can see no way that a plastic ring wore
away 1/4" of metal on the cam.
3/8/2010
Page 10 of 36
This is the Euclid E-2411A air brake cam bushing that I purchased from a local diesel repair shop for 26 cents. The
outer diameter was still a little too wide, so I had to grind it down. It should be no wider than the width of the cam.
Preferrably, it should be a smidge smaller so that it doesn't catch on the round metal snap ring. On the left is the
original size and on the right is the washer after it was ground down. This washer is about 1/16" thick. I put two of
these on each cam. A thickness of 1/8" is what I needed to just about make the top of the cam flush with the top of
the spline gear but still allow for some wiggle room (maybe 1/32"). That may be too much or not enough for your
situation. I recommend starting with a 1/16" thick washer. If that doesn't work, try different washers. The good news
is that if you put a washer on that is too thick, you won't be able to seat the spline gear deep enough in the hub to
get the snap ring back on.
3/8/2010
Page 11 of 36
The washer takes up the space left by that little bit of wear in the plastic piece. Clean up the inside of of the hub as
much as possible and make sure everything has only a LIGHT coating of grease. Put it all back together, making sure
that the new washer fits securely between the bottom of the cam and the plastic ring. The cam, new washer, and
plastic ring have to move in and out of the hub, so make sure that the washer is not going to catch on anything.
3/8/2010
Page 12 of 36
Put the hub on the axle. It should sit flush against the rotor. If it doesn't (screwdriver pointing to gap), rotate the axle
to allow all the hub guts to settle together. I incorrectly stated before that there should be a gap here and that the
3/8/2010
Page 13 of 36
cam is under pressure when installed. Not true. Once everything settles together, you should not have to push against
the force of the large hub spring in order to make the hub touch the rotor. Put the tire back on and torque the lug
nuts.
With both front tires off the ground, turn the front driveshaft to see if the hubs engage properly. If they do, take it out
for a drive to see how they perform under load. Go easy and go slow to start with. Test it in drive and reverse. Listen
for the auto hubs engaging and disengaging. If they don't engage--and assuming you don't have other problems-your new washer may be too thick or too thin. Try a different washer.
EXTRA STUFF ON HOW THE HUBS WORK
If you're curious about how the auto hubs work, put the internal spline gear and cam on the axle, making sure that
3/8/2010
Page 14 of 36
the cam fingers fit into the pockets on the cam assembly. This is the disengaged position. The blue circle shows the
finger on the cam sitting in the pocket of the cam assembly.
Turn the front axle to simulate going into 4x4. As you turn the axle, you'll notice that the cam rides up on the cam
assembly (blue circle). This is the action that compresses the huge spring inside the hubs and makes the inner teeth
inside the hub engage the outer teeth on the spline gear (additional blue circles). This is the engaged position.
I hope that helps. Feel free to add your own thoughts or questions.
Bob
Last edited by BobK : 01-14-2007 at 10:24 PM. Reason: Additional Info
3/8/2010
Page 15 of 36
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12-28-2005, 07:50 PM
F14CRAZY
To the flo...
#2
Yay! I'm going to do this to my hubs when I get to it

__________________
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Posts: 1,662
3/8/2010
Page 16 of 36
12-28-2005, 09:55 PM
Glacier991
EF Tranny Guru
Sacramento, CA 95827
1992 XLT
Join Date: Feb 2003

Posts: 9,336
#3
Bob... nicely done and excellent pictures. I moderate the Transmission and Transfer case
forum, and made an offer to my folks there that a top notch photo illustrated thread entitled
the poster to a nice FORD Rotunda Mousepad. This ain't my forum but thought you deserved
one for this thread. PM me with an address and i will ship you one right after the first of the
year. Gratis.
(ps. Elite status gets you beaucoup room on this server to store pictures for your threads, and
sounds like you will be a great addition to the board!)
09-10-2006, 09:19 PM
pugsy
Wannabe Elite Explorer
Toronto, ON
'92 XLT
Join Date: Oct 2005

Posts: 193
#4
What a simple fix!! Did this today to my hubs and now have 4x4 again! I should state though
that when my hub sit flush against the roter, it didn't disengage properly when I put the wheel
on and tested it out. So I put on an extra spacer, had a gap and needed slight pressure to
make the hub meet the roter - it all sat fine when the wheel went on. It seemed to work fine
after that so I left it!
Thanks again for the post. Save $$ on coverting to manuals. And when they were down again,
I'll just put in new spacers!!!
09-10-2006, 09:51 PM
BrooklynBay
Aerostar man
Brooklyn, NY
88 89 93 96 Aerostars
Join Date: Nov 2005

Posts: 9,481
#5
This is a very nice thread! Many people have asked questions how to repair auto hubs. I didn't
see this thread until now.
__________________
My list of useful threads.
My photo gallery.
My product reviews.
09-11-2006, 01:11 PM
#6
3/8/2010
Page 17 of 36
I nominate this for a STICKY.
ma96782
Aloha,Mark
Vancouver, WA
'94 XLT, 4dr
Join Date: Jan 2006

Posts: 990
11-15-2006,
11:12 AM
MisterCMK
Wannabe Elite
Explorer
Fargo, ND
1992 XLT
Join Date: May

2006
Posts: 26
Excellent thread. I just stumbled across it and rehosted the images.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobK

See original discussion at: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21469. I probably won't have
my picture server after 2006, so I recommend you save the pictures now or perhaps a moderator can put this in the
tech section and host the pictures on the main server.
I took some pictures while performing the "Beertime9 Washer Fix" on the automatic hubs of my '97 Ranger.
Many folks have noticed problems with their auto hubs, but upon disassembly they can find nothing blatantly wrong
with the hubs. Symptoms include a popping or loud pinging sound while 4x4 is engaged or a grinding sound when you
attempt to engage 4x4. The sounds are an indication that the hub will not engage or stay fully engaged.
Don discovered that the pot metal cam on the spline gear and the plastic ring inside the hub that the pot metal cam
rubs against can wear over time. As they wear down, the cam can no longer push the internal hub mechanism in far
enough to engage the hub gears. Wear seems to be only about 1/32" to 1/16", but it's enough to prevent the internal
hub splines from engaging, which are only about 3/8" wide to begin with. Ford will tell you that there are no
serviceable parts inside the hub. However, adding a washer between the pot metal cam and the plastic ring seems to
replace the worn material and allow the auto hub to engage properly.
3/8/2010
Page 18 of 36
3/8/2010
Page 19 of 36
3/8/2010
Page 20 of 36
Here are a couple schematics of the auto hub, although they don't show the guts of the hub. Notice the "cam
assembly". That is not the cam I address below.
3/8/2010
Page 21 of 36
When the hub is off, look at the aluminum cam (with the three fingers on it). Measure how much space there is
between the top of the cam and the top of the spline gear (blue circle). It's about 1/16" in this picture. Your objective
is to add a thick enough washer to bring the cam just about flush with the top of the spline gear. Obviously, you don't
want it tight. Give it a little wiggle room so that it won't be under pressure when you reinstall the hub. (The picture
below shows this same space circled in blue so that you can more easily see what I'm talking about. Of course, you
can only take this measurement while the cam and spline gear are installed.) Start by removing the snap ring. You'll
see it at the bottom. It's the only thing holding the spline gear and pot metal cam in. Once you have the snap ring off,
turn the hub over and thump it on a wooden or padded surface. The only thing holding the spline gear in now is
friction with the center post and crud, so sooner or later, it'll fall out.
3/8/2010
Page 22 of 36
This is the internal spline with the cam on top. The screwdriver is pointing to little nubs on the tops of the splines. The
nubs prevent the cam from coming off the top. It has to slide off the bottom. The blue circle is to exaggerate the gap
3/8/2010
Page 23 of 36
you'll be measuring while the cam and spline gear are installed.
If you look down inside the hub with the spline gear removed, you'll see the plastic ring. It is held in place by a round
metal snap ring (red circle). This is as far as you can disassemble the hub without a press. To disassemble it further,
you have to compress the plastic ring (and subsequently the huge spring at the bottom of the hub) far enough to get
the round metal snap ring out. The screwdriver is pointing to the wear on the plastic ring. Can you say "planned
obsolescence"??!!. What numbskull at Ford decided to use plastic instead of metal? The blue circle indicates the two
sets of teeth that engage the outer teeth on the spline gear. When these two sets of teeth mesh, you're in 4x4. See
below for a deeper explanation.
3/8/2010
Page 24 of 36
On the bottom surface of the cam, you can see the rounded spot that wore into the plastic ring (blue circle). Although
I asked some questions in the original thread about whether or not the little teeth sticking up (red circle) were the
result of wear, I'm now convinced that the cam was manufactured this way. I can see no way that a plastic ring wore
away 1/4" of metal on the cam.
3/8/2010
Page 25 of 36
This is the Euclid E-2411A air brake cam bushing that I purchased from a local diesel repair shop for 26 cents. The
outer diameter was still a little too wide, so I had to grind it down. It should be no wider than the width of the cam.
Preferrably, it should be a smidge smaller so that it doesn't catch on the round metal snap ring. On the left is the
original size and on the right is the washer after it was ground down. This washer is about 1/16" thick. I put two of
these on each cam. A thickness of 1/8" is what I needed to just about make the top of the cam flush with the top of
the spline gear but still allow for some wiggle room (maybe 1/32"). That may be too much or not enough for your
situation. I recommend starting with a 1/16" thick washer. If that doesn't work, try different washers. The good news
is that if you put a washer on that is too thick, you won't be able to seat the spline gear deep enough in the hub
get the snap ring back on.
3/8/2010
Page 26 of 36
The washer takes up the space left by that little bit of wear in the plastic piece. Clean up the inside of of the hub
much as possible and make sure everything has only a LIGHT coating of grease. Put it all back together, making sure
that the new washer fits securely between the bottom of the cam and the plastic ring. The cam, new washer, and
plastic ring have to move in and out of the hub, so make sure that the washer is not going to catch on anything.
3/8/2010
Page 27 of 36
Put the hub on the axle. It should sit flush against the rotor. If it doesn't (screwdriver pointing to gap), rotate the axle
to allow all the hub guts to settle together. I incorrectly stated before that there should be a gap here and that the
3/8/2010
Page 28 of 36
cam is under pressure when installed. Not true. Once everything settles together, you should not have to push against
the force of the large hub spring in order to make the hub touch the rotor. Put the tire back on and torque the lug
nuts.
With both front tires off the ground, turn the front driveshaft to see if the hubs engage properly. If they do, take it out
for a drive to see how they perform under load. Go easy and go slow to start with. Test it in drive and reverse.
for the auto hubs engaging and disengaging. If they don't engage--and assuming you don't have other problems
your new washer may be too thick or too thin. Try a different washer.
EXTRA STUFF ON HOW THE HUBS WORK
If you're curious about how the auto hubs work, put the internal spline gear and cam on the axle, making sure
3/8/2010
Page 29 of 36
the cam fingers fit into the pockets on the cam assembly. This is the disengaged position. The blue circle shows the
finger on the cam sitting in the pocket of the cam assembly.
Turn the front axle to simulate going into 4x4. As you turn the axle, you'll notice that the cam rides up on the cam
assembly (blue circle). This is the action that compresses the huge spring inside the hubs and makes the inner teeth
inside the hub engage the outer teeth on the spline gear (additional blue circles). This is the engaged position.
I hope that helps. Feel free to add your own thoughts or questions.
Bob
3/8/2010
Page 30 of 36
11-25-2006, 11:10 PM
BobK
Central CA
1997 XLT
Join Date: Aug 2005

Posts: 15
#8
1 Year Follow Up
I've been running this fix for about a year now with no troubles at all. I only made one change
to to original fix. Instead of using the hastily-ground steel washer, my father fabricated a good
close-tolerance brass washer for me. I was able to make the fabricated brass washer just a
little thicker than the steel washer, which filled in my cam gap a bit better. I figure the brass
washer may absorb future wear a little better than steel and will be easier to replace in the
future if I ever run into this problem again.
12-12-2006, 01:15 PM
#9
BradE
Auto hub washer fix

Council Bluffs, Ia
1992 xlt
The fix for the shiftless hub problem looks like a good one that I will use to fix my own useless
hubs but I think the plastic washer is unfairly and incorrectly diagnosed as the problem.
Join Date: Dec 2006

Posts: 3
When the internal spline (that is keyed to the hub) is driven by the cam into engagement with
the driven spline set it is pushed by a set of 3 leaf springs against the large coil spring. If the
mating splines aren't quite lined up the leaf springs compress so as to not crush the cam
assembly. as soon as the splines are in aggreement the leaf springs push the splines into
engagement.
The internal spline that is keyed to the hub and is driven by the cam to transfer power from
the driven axle to the hub is captured between two sets of springs. It's position, both at rest
and when driven into engagement to lock the hub into 4 wd, is dependant on the strength of
those two sets of springs (the leaf springs attached to the plastic washer and the large coil
spring). When the hub gets a few years on it I think the leaf springs are giving in to age. This
causes the coil spring to force the internal spline to ride higher in the hub (closer to the wheel)
than when new. The result is that the cam movement is no longer sufficient to drive the hub
spline (internal spline) far enough to engage the inner/outer spline that is driven by the axle.
The washer that is placed between the cam and the plastic washer makes up for the loss of
power in the leaf springs. You are limited in how much washer you can use by the fixed "slop"
in the cam assembly. Too much washer and you will need to compress the spring sets. To
actually "fix" the problem the added washer would need to be placed between the leaf springs
3/8/2010
Page 31 of 36
and the internal spline. In this position you could add exactly the amount you need to get the
internal spline back to its original relationship to the driven spline set. Of course, if you have
the snap-ring removed you might as well replace the offending leaf springs.
The plastic washer is pushed to its upper limit by the springs below it and against the round
metal snapring. If the plastic washer wears down it gets thinner but the difference is lost in the
springs, until the plastic gets so thin it no longer holds. The cam height relative to the
inernal/external spline will be the same no matter how thick the plastic washer is. Aditionally
the plastic washer can't be worn down across it's whole width as the cam only rides on a part of
it's width. If the plastic ring were wearing it would develop a groove and no longer be flat
across it's width.
01-14-2007, 05:04 AM
BobK
Central CA
1997 XLT
#10
Thanks for the second opinion, Brad. I just got another set of auto hubs that need to be fixed.
I'll look harder this time to see if I can understand what you're saying.
Join Date: Aug 2005

Posts: 15
01-16-2007, 03:28 PM
BradE
Council Bluffs, Ia
1992 xlt
Join Date: Dec 2006

Posts: 3
#11
If you look into the hub, as you might look into a cup of coffee, you will see the plastic washer
pressed up against a cir-clip (or snap-ring). The plastic washer has three leaf springs attached
to its underside. These springs push down on the cog, or inner spine. The spline cog is against
the bodatious coil spring. The downward movement of this cog causes it to engage with the
driven spline on the axle.
Still looking into the hub? Visualize pushing down on the plastic washer with the intent of
pushing the spline cog deeper into the hub. You will notice that you must depress the coil
spring in order to accomplish this but as you push you will also have to overcome the leaf
springs.
The purpose of the leaf springs are to keep the cam assembly from being crushed in case the
splines on the spline cog and the splines on the driven spline are not exactly lined up. The
3/8/2010
Page 32 of 36
problem with them is that they are only about an inch long and years of use cause them to
weaken. The coil spring below them is much more robust and so the spline cog will
progressively ride higher in the hub. This means that the cam assembly will have to push
farther in order to get the spline cog to engage the driven spline on the end of the axle stub.
The washer fix takes some of the built in "slop" of the cam assembly and uses it to allow the
cam to push farther. You can add as mush washer thickness as you have slop but at some point
you will cause the hub to preload some spring tension and may cause the spline cog to stay in
engagement with the driven cog. If you can't push the hub competely onto the axle without
drawing up the lug nuts you have reached the end of the slop and are driving the plastic
washer and the contents of the hub away from the snap-ring. As the cam assembly spins with
the axle this probably isn't a good thing.
The best way to fix this problem would be to unload the hub, pull the snap-ring, and replace
the plastic washer with the leaf spring attached to it but you probably can't buy the darned
thing.
Best of luck
Brad
PS: I appoligize if this description is hard to follow. I don't know what the proper names are for
the components and everyone uses different phrasology. To add to the confusion there are
three spline sets in the hub: the outer spline on the axle, the inner/outer spline set that sets
over the axle, and the inner spline that is captured in the hub. The success of the hub depends
on the factory set (at rest) relationship between the inner spline (spline cog) that is in the hub
and the inner/outer spline that is on the axle stub.
02-12-2007, 04:18 PM
#12
waynar
Can Anyone tell me...

Glen Rock, PA
1994 Ford Explorer
What is the circumference that these washers need to grinded down to? I have a 1994 Ford
Explorer.
Join Date: Feb 2007

Posts: 1
Thanks
3/8/2010
03-21-2007, 09:58 PM
BobK
Central CA
1997 XLT
Page 33 of 36
#13
Sorry, waynar, can't help you there. I saw the guts of an Explorer hub that appeared to have
much different dimensions than my '97 Ranger. I measured the diameter of my cam after I
removed it from the hub and then ground down the washers for a "custom" fit.
Join Date: Aug 2005

Posts: 15
03-21-2007, 10:00 PM
BobK
Central CA
1997 XLT
#14
Good post, Brad. I think you hit the nail on the head. To be honest, I couldn't convince myself
that the plastic ring had worn down, but I didn't know what else to blame. I'll put some thought
into what might be a suitable substitute for the leaf springs. Maybe a big, squishy rubber
washer?
Join Date: Aug 2005

Posts: 15
03-21-2007, 11:10 PM
BradE
Council Bluffs, Ia
1992 xlt
Join Date: Dec 2006

Posts: 3
#15
Bob K
As long as you have the hub coil spring unloaded (as you would have to in order to get to the
leaf spring) you might try fixing the existing springs. (By unloading I mean removing the circlip that keeps the springs and cogs held in the hub.)
Once you have the plastic washer out of the hub try bending the leaf springs back to original
lift position. I haven't tried this so I don't know how successful it would be and you'd want to be
careful not to break one of the three springs as you may not be able to buy another set. Maybe
a Ford dealer will sell you just a new set of springs for the hub.
In my case dismantling the hub, cleaning and repacking seems to have fixed my shiftlessness
3/8/2010
Page 34 of 36
(my wife wants to do the same to me now).

As for a creative replacement, be cautious. Whatever you use has to stand the pounding of the
splines mis-meshing as the cogs spin under load. Anything that can't allow the splines to ride
each other until the cogs spin into alignment will cause the cams to snap off. It could be a
pretty abrupt and unkind end to the day (and leave you a ways from home).
By the way, the outside diameter of the washer you would use as suggested by the original
post, in my hub, would be about 2 inches. I lost the paper I had written the measurements
down on and I can't remember what the inside measurement is. The pictures show where the
washer fits. If you take your hub apart you should be able to measure the space where it fit
easier than I could describe that space.
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Ranger AuRanger Auto Hub Washer Fix With Picturesto Hub Washer Fix With Pictures

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Ranger AuRanger Auto Hub Washer Fix With Picturesto Hub Washer Fix With Pictures

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Auto Hub Washer Fix With Pictures - Explorer Ranger Enthusiast Forum

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Auto Hub Washer Fix With Pictures

See original discussion at: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21469. I probably won't have

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Yay! I'm going to do this to my hubs when I get to it

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I nominate this for a STICKY.

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Excellent thread. I just stumbled across it and rehosted the images.

Originally Posted by BobK

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Auto hub washer fix

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Can Anyone tell me...

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(my wife wants to do the same to me now).

Auto Hub Washer Fix With Pictures

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