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GENERAL DIRECTOR
Carsten Korch
MANAGING EDITOR
Nathan Paluck
HEAD WRITER
Dyana M. Gonzales Yupanqui
DESIGN
Pilar Fernandez-Davila Z.
COPY EDITOR
Ross Knutson

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Introduction

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About
LivinginPeru.com

PROJECT ASSISTANT
Caroll Ortiz

Dear reader, traveler and explorer,

During more than ve years, the
LivinginPeru.com team and I have
explored and experienced the best of
Peru, and over the last six months,
with the help of our dedicated readers, we compiled the best of the best
in our new guide book Do Peru: 101
Things to Experience.

PHOTOS
See complete credits. A special thank you to all
those who contributed their photographs.

This book, a pleasure to write, is full

of wonderful tips and ideas on what
to see, do and try while you are in
Peru. I'm sure you'll enjoy all of the
things we have included.

OUR THANKS TO
Diego de la Torre, Simon Leishman, Rony Gonzales,
Eduardo Rivera, Andreas Vailakis and PromPeru.

Do Peru is a guide book to bring

along with you to Peru and also an
introduction to LivinginPeru.com, a

portal full of recommendations,

news, articles, tips, events and
more, to ensure you have a great
experience while traveling and living
in Peru.
So, Do Peru! And feel free to write
us your ideas, comments and suggestions to editor@livinginperu.com.
Your Sincerely,
Carsten Korch
Chief Editor
LivinginPeru.com
PS For free weekly updates, sign up
for Peru this Week.

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Forward

Peru will surprise you, as it is diverse not

only in its geography, but in the range of
experiences it offers.
When we travel, some of us seek
adventure. Others, culture. Some of us
are passionate about a certain sport,
such as surng. Yet others dream of
watching birds and butteries, or of
spotting pink dolphins. And most of us
enjoy good food.
Peru offers all of this and more. If you
are seeking adventure, you can participate in an Amazon River race, paraglide
in the city of Lima or simply walk the
ancient Inca Trail. There are also plenty of
outdoor activities to pursue in beautiful
natural settings: the Inca Salt Pans, the
Colca Canyon, the Gocta Waterfalls,
Tambopata and the Amazon, to name a
few.
But perhaps Peru is most known for its
cultural heritage. Machu Picchu is one of
the New Seven Wonders of the World
and Peru's most well known monument.

However, archaeological monuments

are continuously being discovered all
over Peru and especially in the northern
coast. Only three hours away from Lima
is Caral, the oldest civilization of the
Americas. With its ve thousand-year-old
pyramids and ceremonial centers, it is
considered a goldmine of information
about the origins of the Andean Civilization.
Do Peru: 101 Things to Experience is
an excellent tool to explore and to use
for some research before you decide to
come to Peru and once you are already
here. I am sure that it will help you nd
the mix of experiences that is right for
you.
I would like to thank Carsten Korch
and LivinginPeru.com for continuously
highlighting what is worthy and beautiful
about Peru. We hope that you will
discover it for yourself.

JACQUELINE SAETTONE
Former Director of PromPeru

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Contents I

Adventure

CITY SIGHTS

FESTIVALS

FOOD

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Paraglide over Miraores

Surf
Cuzco Adventures Sports
Dune Buggy Riding
Sandboarding
Kite Surng
Amazon River Race
Bike Trek from Tres Cruces

ANDEAN
8
15
18
68
73

Train through the Andes

Train to Lake Titicaca
The Sacred Valley
See the Central Highlands
Explore Lake Titicaca

Stroll through Historic Lima

See Lima by Bus
Lima Museum of Art
Floating Barrio of Belen
Arequipa's Relaxing Square
Mazelike Monastery in Arequipa
Modern Art Galleries in Lima
Lima's oldest churches
The Water Park
The Jungle City
Lima's Cemetery
Bohemia in Barranco
Erotic Art at Larco Museum
Classic Lima Bars
Afro-Peruvian Culture
National Museum
The City of Cuzco
Cuzco Nightlife

Give thanks to Pachamama

A Festival at 15,000 Feet
Party at a Pea
Trip on Ayahuasca
Folklore Festival in Puno
Easter in Ayacucho
Bull Fighting at Acho
Peru's Horse Shows
Marinera Dance Festival
The Inca Sun Festival

Drink Pisco Sour

Eat Ceviche
Drink Chicha Morada
Drink Coca Tea
Peru's Top Beer
Eat Lomo Saltado
Aji de Gallina
Drink Peruvian Coffee
Tour a Pisco Distillery
Drink Inka Kola
Try Lcuma Ice Cream
Peru's Patriotic Casserole
Eat Pollo a la brasa
Eat Papa a la Huancaina
Lima's Organic Market
Tasty Beef Hearts
Drink Fresh Limeade
The Andean Feast

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Contents II

OUTDOORS

PREHISPANIC

SHOPPING

WILDLIFE

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27 The Mangroves of Tumbes

29 Amazon River Boat Trip
30 Spotting Pink Dolphins
56 Visit a Butterfly Farm
59 Tambopata and Manu
88 Ballestas Islands
101 Birdwatching

Inca Salt Pans

Try Different Inca Trails
Cordillera Blanca
Hike the Inca Trail
Mancora
Cotahuasi Canyon
Lunahuan
Visit the Amazon
Baos del Inca
Work on Porcn Farm
Colca Canyon
Gocta Waterfalls
Trek with Llamas
Rock Forest of Huayllay

The Huacas of Lima

Machu Picchu
Lord of Sipan
Fly over the Nazca Lines
The Adobe City of Chan Chan
Kuelap
Chankillo
Ventanillas of Combayo
Pachacamac
Caral, the Mother Civilization
Koricancha Temple
Choquequirao
Chavin de Huantar

Party at Asia Beach

Lima's Cliff Mall
Buy Peru's Best Silver
Shop for Souvenirs in Miraores
See a Market

VOLUNTEERING
12 Volunteer with Kids in Cuzco
37 Volunteer and Surf
60 Volunteer in Peru

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Lima

See more in

City Sights

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Stroll through historic lima

Downtown Lima is the heart
and birthplace of Peru as we
know it. A stroll through its
colonial streets is a required
activity for visitors. Start at
Jiron de la Union and walk
into the colonial Plaza Mayor,
Lima's main square, which is
home to some of Lima's nest
colonial architecture and
classic facades. Walk less
than a block to the government palace courtyard and
watch the soldiers clad in
bright uniforms perform the

changing of the guard at noon.

Then walk across the square
and walk into the cathedral or
the Archbishop's Palace. The
plaza's bronze fountain dates
back to the 1600s and can
serve as a point of reference
as you wander past the very
spot that once saw the
Republic's ag wave for the
rst time, after Jose de San
Martin declared Peruvian
independence from the Spaniards in 1821.

Showing a Friend around Historic Downtown

Touring Lima by Bike: The Center of Lima
Lima Walks Offers a City Tours on Foot

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All of Peru

VIDEO: Learn to make a pisco sour from a

seasoned Peruvian bartender, who gives acerbic
political commentary all the while.

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Food

See 100 recipes for pisco cocktails. Read

about an attempt to make a sour in the U.S.
Find bars for pisco sours in NYC and London.

return

Drink a Pisco Sour

Or drink a few. And, welcome to Peru!
Pisco sour is foamy, delicious, and essential
to Peru's gastronomic and cultural heritage. It
is made by shaking three parts pisco, and one
parts of lime juice, sugar syrup and egg white,
then topping with Angostura bitters. This
utmost symbol of Peru is credited to an American barman in the heyday of Lima's downtown scene in the 1920s. Whether it was rst
concocted at Hotel Bolivar or Hotel Maury is
still debated. (Both are still open: See our
section on classic bars.)
The pisco sour is such a source of national
pride that in 2003 the government declared
the rst Saturday of February as Pisco Sour
Day. You can be sure current president Alan
Garcia toasting heads of state with a sour.

The pisco sour is synonymous with Peruvian

hospitality and and good times. Mix pisco
sours with friends, and toast with pisco sours
at some of the top bars listed below.

The Bar Ingles in the Hotel Country Club

makes perhaps the best pisco sour in
Peru. Bartender Roberto Melendez uses
the 4-1-1 recipe (see here). Its potent.
Other Lima bars with great pisco sours
include Huaringas, La Calesa (Manuel
Baon 255, San Isidro), Ayahuasca, Capitan Melendez (Alcanfores 199, Miraores).
In Cuzco, stop at El Pisquerito and try
creative cocktails from Hans Hilburg,
regarded as Peru's best pisco mixologist.
Read more about the origins of the pisco
sour.
VIDEO: Colin of the Cocktail Kings
mixes pisco drinks in Lima

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Lima

Visit Huaca Pucllana in the heart of Miraores

(General Borgoo Cuadra 8, 445-8695). Englishspeaking guides give informative tours. Then
grab a drink at the on-site gourmet restaurant.

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Prehispanic

Other huacas are: Puruchuco (Km 4.5 Carretera

Central), Huallamarca (Nicolas de Rivera 201,
San Isidro), and inside the Parque de Leyendas
(Av. Las Leyendas, Lima).

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The Huacas of lima

Huacas are thousand-yearold structures of delicate
beauty, once used for religious
ceremonies by Peru's coastal
and Andean cultures. There
are several of these weathered
archaeological sites scattered
throughout Lima, most of
them made from small, sundried bricks.
There is evidence that the
huacas were used as centers
for worship, sacred burial
sites, and residences of governing clergy. Peruvian
archaeologists and scholars
are presently studying
and working to restore

these huacas, which are almost

always located in the midst of
modern Lima structures.
In Lima it is not rare to suddenly stumble upon vestiges
of former empires standing
silently amid a backdrop of
blaring horns and bumper-tobumper trafc. As recently as
one decade ago, local children
played hide-and-seek and
soccer in the heart of these
ancient ruins. Fortunately,
Peru is now making efforts to
guarantee that future generations of Peruvians will stand in
awe before these relics as
their ancestors once did.

Learn more and see photos about Lima's

four major huacas: Huaca Pucllana,
Huaca Puruchuco, Huaca Huallamarca,
Parque de las Leyendas Huaca.

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Lima

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Adventure

Peru Fly is the top company for paragliding and

hand gliding: 99-308-6795. Fly Adventure offers
instruction, as does Aeroextreme.

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PAraglide over Limas Coast

coastal winds. You will catch
your reection against Limas
skyscrapers (some gliders
reportedly have peeked into
business meetings) or appear
to plummet toward the Pacic
Ocean as the master glider
performs a classic death
spiral maneuver. All of this
completely at your whim: No
waivers to be signed, and no
contract other than the handshake of one of a number of
pro gliders who make the
Miraores cliffs and the wind
their exciting work place.

Jump off the edge of a cliff

and into the liberating experience of ying. It isn't too
far-fetched to say that the
seaside district of Miraores is
a lot more captivating when
viewed from more than 200
meters above. Every day
professional paragliders
gather near Parque del Amor
in Miraores along the bluffs
of the Pacic Ocean to offer
30 minute rides to adventure
seekers. Here you will be
strapped in as the paraglider
steers through Limas steady

Paragliding over the Pacic Ocean in

Lima

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The Coast

In Lima, Av. La Mar has exploded with cevicherias. Try La Red, Gaston Acurio's La Mar, Cinco
Esquinas, Blumar and Pescados Capitales,
(open evenings). Great ceviche can be found at

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Food

Punta Sal, Seor Limon and Cala. And from his

unassuming home in a tougher barrio, Javier
Wong serves some of Peru's best ceviche.

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Ceviche!
(We're not responsible for any
mouth watering.) What's there
to say? Ceviche from Peru is
simply the best. It's all about
the ingredients: freshly caught
white sh from the Pacic,
juice from Peru's incredible
limes up North, spicy aji
pepper, onion and cilantro
some seaweed. The sh is
tossed for just seconds in the
lime juice. Then the garnishings: native sweet potato, a
quarter-cob of maiz gigante,
and maybe some salty fried
kernels, maybe seaweed. The
ceviche is refreshing, spicy
and tart; the sweet potato and

maiz offers perfect balance.

Cevicherias in Peru typically
serve only during lunch. On
weekend especially, they
ll up with large groups of
family and friends (ceviche is
also a hangover curative of
choice). While in Peru eat
ceviche, whether at the beach,
at corner stands selling plates
for three soles ($1!), or lounging at the chic ceviche restaurants in Lima's Miraores
district. The only bad part is,
when away from Peru, you
won't nd a ceviche that
compares.

Ceviche: Its History and My Husband's

Obsession
How to Eat Ceviche in Lima

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Lima

The two top tour companies are Turibus (4467575) and Mirabus (476-4213). Websites in
Spanish only.

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City Sights

For alternative tours of the city, see Bike Tours

of Lima and Lima Walks.

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SEe Lima by bus

Get the best crash course you
could ever have of Lima on a
single road trip. Board a
double-decker tour bus
and embark upon a panoramic
tour of Lima's main attractions: Colonial architecture,
plazas, renowned parks and
other places of interest. The
tours includes stops at
Lima's huacas and the
world-famous water park and
impressive views of the
Pacic Ocean. Other cultural
attractions include illuminated
night tours of Lima's historic
center, the Plaza de Armas, a

cemetery, fortresses, historical

sites and the bohemian neighborhood of Barranco, among
others.These trips can also
incorporate a buffet dinner of
"colors and avors," accompanied by a live music show
that includes traditional music
and traditional dancing. Enjoy
the best of Lima's architecture, rich history and culture
by hopping in and taking part
in one of Lima's fun sightseeing experiences.

Take a night food tour of Lima

A drinking tour inaugurates La Semana
del Chilcano

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The Coast

Los Muelles Surf Camp is next to the coveted

Lobitos waves and offers lodging and lessons.
Surfers reccommend it. Casa de Nacho is a laid

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Adventure

back surfer house in Lobitos, and the best pizza

in town. Most surfers just show up to Perus top
points and stay at surf houses, always available.

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Surf
The Peruvian coastline runs
more than 1,800 miles and
offers surfers both gentle and
roaring waves.
Just 26 miles to the south of
Lima there is Punta Hermosa,
with more than twenty breaks
within a ve mile radius,
including the Pico Alto, South
America's largest wave.
Surfers say go north, though.
Most agree the best place in
Peru to surf is Lobitos, a
sleepy shing town and now
an international surf location.
In Lobitos, here are the four
main spots: The Point, which
has the most consistent ride;
El Hueco, a good choice for

beginners; El Muelle, which

boasts quality lefts and is
usually less crowed; and
Piscinas, a good intermediate
option. During Peru's summer
between November and
March, an excellent swell from
the north makes great breaks
and the water is warm enough
to surf without a wetsuit
(central and southern Peru
requires one mostly yearround).
Other tops spots to surf up
north are Pacasmayo,
Huanchaco and Chicama,
which boasts the longest left
in the world ("pretty sick wave
mate," one surfer says).

New Hotels Add Comfort to Chicama

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Highlands

Check for times of the next departure at Ferrocarril Central Andino. Serious train enthusiasts
can try cathing a rare ride wit theTrain Macho

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Andean

from Huancayo to Huancavelica. (The macho

part is because the train leaves or arrives whenever it pleases.)

return

TRain Through the Andes

The train that goes from Lima
to Huancayo boasts the
second-highest tracks in the
world. Seeing Andean passes
from a train is one the highlights of Peru travel that few
experience partly because
the train only runs once a
month, if that.
The spectacular ride takes you
over the Ticlio pass at 15,797
feet and other impressive
sections of the Andes. In all it

covers 26 stations, 61 bridges

and 67 tunnels as it clanks
and rattles its way through the
picturesque highlands. The
206-mile route features
alpine-high lagoons, plunging
cliffs, tunnels and precariouslooking bridges. Its a phenomenally scenic, but sometimes
frightening ride. No wonder
that it is known as one of the
most captivating train journeys
in the world.

A Weekend in Huancayo
On Track to Huancayo

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Cuzco

Go to Machu Picchu via Peru Rail. Youll catch

the train 10 minutes outside Cuzco in Poroy, and
from there the adventure begins. Its recommended to see Machu Picchu early in the morn-

See more in

Prehispanic

ing, which is done only by staying overnight in

Machu Picchu Pueblo and taking the rst bus at
5 a.m. to the citadel. There is one hotel at the
base of Machu Picchu: The Sanctuary Lodge.

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Machu Picchu
Machu Picchu. You might
want to do this one.
The Lost City of the Incas is
the face of Peru to the world.
(When Peruvians go abroad,
people may think Peru is in
Africa. But people always
seem to know that Machu
Picchu is in Peru.)
Machu Picchu is at 2,500 feet
above sea level, nestled in
mist-shrouded highland
jungle.The site is believed to
have been built as an estate
for an Inca ruler. It has 140
gorgeous structures of
tightly-t stone. It also has a
complex irrigation system
containing a great number of

water fountains interconnected by channels and

water-drains perforated in the
rocks that at one time
carried water from a holy
spring to each of the houses in
this ancient Inca citadel. The
Incas also built a road system
that led directly to the site.
Today, more than a thousand
visitors a day visit Machu
Picchu. This stunning city truly
is, as the World Heritage Site
committee declared in its
induction, "an absolute masterpiece of architecture and a
unique testimony to the Inca
civilization."

The discovery of Machu Picchu

Orchids at the Machu Picchu Nature Reserve

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All of Peru

See this recipe for chicha morada.

See more in

Food

For a chicha cocktail, try out Ya Que Chicha!,

which uses pisco and cherry brandy.

return

Drink Chicha Morada

Chicha morada is perhaps the most
beloved beverage in all of Peru. This
celebrated refreshment is traditionaly
prapared by infusing purple corn and
pinneapple with cloves and cinnamon
for a dash of spice, and nally sweetened with sugar and lime juice. Chicha
morada is not only famous for being
incredibly refreshing, but for being
nutritious as well. Full of antioxidants, its
regular consumption has been proven to
help control cholesterol and blood
pressure levels.
Although the roots of chicha morada lie
in the highland valleys of the Andes, in
the last decade its consumption has

10

crossed multinational borders. Now its

bottled and powder versions may just be
starting to tread new ground in Europe,
America and Asia, but in Peru this tangy
purple soft drink is king (and dont think
about drinking it in from powdered
mixes).
From children's parties and family
barbecues to restaurants or sunny days
at the beach, Peruvians always rely on
this invigorating beverage to deliciously
complement the rich avors of their
world-famous cuisine.
Cold and sweet, and uniquely purple,
chicha morada is truly one of a kind.

The Healthy Chicha Morada

Exporting Chicha Morada

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Cuzco

It costs only ve soles to enter and walk around

the salt pans. Most Sacred Valley tours stop
here. For the more adventurous, use the

See more in

Outdoors

maps found in Exploring Cusco by Peter Frost,

for a half-day hike from Maras through the salt
pans to Urubamba.

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THe Salt pans of Maras

Less than forty miles from
Cuzco, down the main road
leading to Urubamba, are
the amazing Inca Salt Pans or
the Salineras de Maras. These
three thousand or so cascading ats, plotted along a steep
hillside, have been passed
down from generation to
generation since the time of
the Inca Empire. They are
owned and operated by local
families who make a living
from the tradition of salt
extraction. Salt miners take
turns channeling water into
their pools from a nearby salt
spring, water which the

11

sun's heat evaporates

leaving behind thick layers of
crystallized salt. This salt is
scraped off and transported in
mules later to be packaged
out and sold.
When light reects on these
hand carved pools, the effect
is stunning, especially in the
late afternoon, when the
sunset causes the salt pans to
glimmer as if speckled in gold.
Watch the miners working
ankle-deep among these
hundreds of shimmering pools
and be captivated by the
stunning view.

Colonial Charm in the city of Maras

On the road in Peru: A family trip from
Nazca to Cuzco

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Cuzco

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See Kiya's website.

Kiya Survivors is a UKPeruvian charity based in Peru

dedicated to providing a new
beginning for children and
young adults who have special
needs or have been abused or
abandoned. Founded in 2001,
Kiya Survivors builds and
runs educational centers for
these young people who live
in extreme poverty. Its rst
location, the Rainbow Centre,
is opened in the Sacred Valley
in Cuzco. Since then, founder
Suzy Butler and her Peruvian
team have opened four more
centers in the Sacred Valley
and one the northern coast.
From these base camps they
work to provide

Kiya offers a three-day training course from its

UK ofce prior to departure for Peru.

Volunteer with Kids in Cuzco

12

See more in

Volunteering

high standards of education

and therapy to some of the
poorest and most remote
areas of Peru where there is
otherwise little or no support.
Volunteers can participate in
Kiya Survivors Volunteer
Programs and make a positive
difference to the lives of
disadvantaged young people,
their families, and
communities. Kiya Survivors
now supports over 200 children, young people and their
families. Each year up to 60
volunteers assist the children in a variety of activities,
such as sports, drama,
creative skills, and excursions.

Volunteering at Kiya,
a personal story
Fun books by Brits to read before taking off for Peru:
Inca Kola: A Traveller's Tale of Peru and Viva South
America!: A Journey Through a Restless Continent.

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Pour some of your drink out to thank the pachamama (do it outside, though).

See more in

Festivals

Two tour operators that offer visits to Andean

pachamama ceremonies include SAS Travel and
T.AR.A Tours.

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Give thanks to the Pachamama

If while in Peru you are lucky enough to get
your hands on a delicious cup of chicha
morada and want good things coming your
way, then make a toast to the Pachamama.
An Andean tradition that consists of the
locals to offering a sip of their chicha,
beer or pisco to the Pachamama before each
one of their meals. Pachamama, the Quechua
word meaning Mother Earth was at one point
the goddess most revered by the indigenous
people of the Andes. She was the beloved
goddess of agriculture and fertility that could

13

and would occasionally put the earth to quake

according to local legend. Beloved still for
her generosity, to this day many Peruvians
show their reverence to the Pachamama
and the richness she provides by pouring
just a bit of their chicha to the ground
before bringing the drink to their lips. Ask
any Peruvian, they will tell you that making a
offering to the Pachamama will do you good.

Practicing Andean spiritual rituals in

Cuzco and Puno

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Travel agencies in Cuzco are plentiful. One that

stands out is out Wayki Trek, self-described as
under indigenous management.

See more in

Outdoors

See waykitrek.net, or visit their Cuzco ofce at

Av. Pardo 506 (Paseo de los Hroes). Ask for
Leo.

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Hike a different inca trail

The common assumption is that the classic
trek to Machu Picchu is the one and only Inca
Trail. But actually the original Inca road
system, once used by the Chasqui messenger
runners, has numerous alternative branches.
Now, due to the popularity of the classic Inca
Trail, the government of Peru made it mandatory to have a special permit to be allowed to
trek any portion of this famous trail to Machu
Picchu. And there are only a couple hundred
of these coveted slotte available each day that
sell out extremetely quickly. But, alternative

14

treks such as Lares Valley, Ausangate, Choquequirao, Salcantay Trek and Santa Teresa
do not require permits. These alternate
routes are also less touristic, yet they offer
as much beauty as the more iconic classic
route: wild orchids, hummingbirds, crystalline
brooks and breath taking sunsets over
snow capped peaks, just to mention a few
things. Some of these trails can take several
days to complete and can be more demanding than the beaten path; but these less
traveled roads are worth every step of the
way.

Choquesuysuy: The Purication Trail

Salkantay, an Alternative Inca Trail in
Peru

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Highlands

Starting at US$ 220, cost varies depending on

whether traveling on rst class or backpacker
carriage.

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Andean

Peru Rail offers rides from

Cuzco to Puno.

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train to Lake titicaca

Experience a spellbinding rail
trip through the Andes.
The 12-hour voyage through
snow-draped peaks begins its
climb in Cuzco and ends by
the sapphire-blue splendor of
Lake Titicaca. Contemplate
174 miles of emerald valleys
dotted with colonial churches
and farmers tending to
their llamas and vicuas. Or
see markets so bustling with
activity that stands are often
improvised right on the tracks.
(It is not unusual for a train to
have to force merchants,
stands and cattle to move

aside in order to allow the train

to pass through.) Enjoy a full
day of comfortable indoor
sightseeing thanks to oorto-ceiling, panoramic window
panels. The cuisine served on
board is deliciously complemented by the Andean scenery, making for a unique
restaurant and bar experience.
The ride nally comes to a
conclusion in Puno, home to
Lake Titicaca the highest
navigable Lake in the world,
and as Inca legend has it, the
birthplace of the sun god Inti.

15

An expat discovers Peru's answer to

the Orient Express experience

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Highlands

For a serious hike every July, see International

Mountain Guides.

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Outdoors

A good cafe in Huaraz is Cafe Andino.

Churup is a family run hostel in Huaraz.

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Hike the cordillera blanca

The Cordillera Blanca mountain range is considered one of the best spots in South America
for climbing and trekking. Located in the
Ancash region, the mountain ranges glaciertopped peaks sit ominously above the city of
Huaraz. The Cordillera has 33 spectacular
peaks, with Huascaran reaching 22,200 feet,

and is immensely popular with veteran

mountaineers and seasoned adventurers. One well-known hike is the trek
from Cedros Valley to the Ulta Valley
from where you see the famous Altamayo Peak (once voted the Most
Beautiful Mountain in the World
we'll let you decide). Another popular
route is the Santa Cruz trek, usually a
four-day hike that offers views of
abundant meadows, wild owers,
turquoise lakes and white glaciers. The
mountain range is also an ideal destination for those interested in mountain
biking, hang gliding and rock climbing.
There are also many popular day and

16

overnight nature treks in the Huascaran

National Park, traversing the Laguna
Llaganuco and Laguna 69. With hundreds
of tour operators, restaurants, hotels and
bars nearby, it will be hard for visitors to run
out of things to do.

Trekking Eight Days in Huayhuash,

Part One, Part Two
Climbing Alpamayo

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All cafes in Perus highlands offer mate de coca.

In Cuzco, Cafe Trotamundo offers a large mug of
steaming coca tea and a great view of Cuzco's

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Food

Main Plaza. At Caf Literario Varayoc, settle in

with a book and coca tea, Espaderos 142.
In Puno, dont miss the Coca museum.

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Drink Coca Leaf Tea

adding hot water to a handful of
coca leaves, traditionally considered a sacred plant of great curative value. (If you don't have hot
water nearby, just chew on a wad
of the leaves.) Locals say it has the
medicinal power to sooth a number
of afictions ranging from headaches to insomnia. And the plant is
the base of cocaine, illegal in the
U.S. and the cause of a billion
dollar War on Drugs. But you'll feel
above all that in the thin air of the
Andean highlands and with a
steaming cup of coca tea.

Coca Tea is an ancient Peruvian

welcome drink and the best
natural remedy for soroche:
altitude sickness. When you are
in the breath-taking Andes Mountains not just from the view,
but also from the lack of oxygen
locals will tell you that a hot
and relaxing cup of mate de
coca is the surest way to acclimate. It is the drink of choice for
Inca Trail guides.This beloved
brew of the highlands has an
earthy avor and a mildly sweet
aftertaste. Make it by simply

17

The Coca Leaf and Its Stigmas

Recipe for a Coca Sour (you didnt think
wed forget about pisco, right?)

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Cuzco

Sol y Luna is a high-end option in the valley.

Other top places include Casa Andina and Rio
Sagrado. Equitours does horseback riding in

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Andean

the valley. Seminario Ceramic Studio is a gallery that holds ceramics workshops.

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The sacred valley of cuzco

The Sacred Valley of the Incas
has been a popular destination since the Incan Royalty
took advantage of its mild
climate to escape the cold of
Cuzco centuries ago. With a
stunning backdrop of blue
skies and lofty peaks, rivers
and streams it is easy to see
why. The Sacred Valley is
home to many Inca ruins, such
as Pisac and Ollantaytambo,
which majestically overlook
their towns below.
Trade and commerce have
always been important components of the Valley and this

continues today, as the area

hosts some of the most popular artisan markets in Pisac
and Chinchero.
For adventure enthusiasts the
Valley offers a score of outdoor options: kayaking and
rafting, paragliding, mountain
biking, horseback riding and
trekking. After a day lled with
activities one can unwind at
one of the many lodges and
spas and enjoy the peaceful
tranquility of the Valley just like
the Incan Royalty centuries
ago.

18

Don't Miss Out on Ollantaytambo

The Sacred Energy of Sacred Valley:
Reections After a Trip to Cuzco

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Cuzco

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Adventure

Enigma is an adventure tour operator based out

of Cuzco. Gravity Assisted offers mountain
biking tours.

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Adventure sports in cuzco

In the last couple of decades
Cuzco has become a magnet
for adventure sports acionados in search of an adrenaline
rush. Every year droves of
adventure-seekers are drawn
to the Peruvian Andes ready
for extreme sports, to couple
with Cuzco's rich history and
stunning scenery. Cuzco has
scores to offer in outdoor and
adventure opportunities for
everyone. The Sacred Valley
offers a rst-rate white water
rafting adventure through the
Urubamba River, with rapids
ranging from a calm class II
to an intense class IV. Also,
the legendary four-day Inca

19

Trail trek to Machu Picchu

calls for arduous trekking
and continues to be the
region's most sought-after
outdoor activity. There are
also plenty of other adventure
sports such as: mountain
biking, paragliding in the
Sacred Valley, bungee jumping and rock climbing.
For those that seek a
calmer, more relaxing hiking
pace to enjoy the snowcapped peaks, blue skies, and
varied plant and bird life, there
are plenty of walking and
horse back riding paths. All
things considered, Cuzco is
Peru's champion of adventure
travel sports.

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All of Peru

Enjoy a Cusquea everywhere in Peru! Also nd

it at ner stores in four continents: North
America, South America, Europe, Asia.

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Food

In Lima for business? See the Top 10 bars and

restaurants to do business in Lima.

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Cusquea, Perus top beer

Of Peruvian beers, perhaps none provokes such
strong images of Peru more
than Cusquea. From its name
that means from Cuzco, the
craftsmanship and attention to
detail, and its origins in the
German immigrants to Peru
who perfected its recipe in the
early 1900s, Cusquea is a
beer that is Peru. The fact that
water used in its brewing
comes from glaciers at over
18,000 feet and it incorporates

some of the worlds top hops

while adhering to the German
beer purity law of 1516,
making it crisp and refreshing
and bold at the same time. Its
versatility makes it a wonderful
companion to the many
avors of Perus award winning cuisine or to enjoy all by
itself whether traveling through
the Andes or back in your
home country.

20

Cusquea wins presence and awards in

the UK
Read about Perus top brands

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Cuzco

Llama Path is a good company for the hike.

There is limited space on the trail, so book far in
advanced. Advice: Acclimatize in Cuzco at least
2 days before; walk around alot. Day 2 and 3 are

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Outdoors

the hardest. Do Wayna Picchu: its worth it. The

Inca Trail makes the Machu Picchu experience a
more spiritual event, and makes you feel like you
earned it once arriving.

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Hike the inca trail

The Inca Trail was a transportation system that united the
entire Inca Empire in preColumbian South America.
The network consisted of two
north-south roads, with several road channels that
allowed for efficient
communications. This trail
connected towns, agricultural
and mining zones as well as
sacred ceremonial centers.
The most famous of these
routes is the one that leads to
Machu Picchu. Although the
prime users of these routes
were imperial soldiers, llama

caravans and nobility, the

most famous of them were the
Chasquis. The Chasquis were
trained relay messengers
stationed at intervals of about
20 miles along these roads,
who daily carried correspondence and fresh food supplies
from the highlands to the
coast and back. Considering
the Incas did not make use of
wheeled transportation and
did not have horses, the Inca
Trails were the most advanced
highway system of its time.

21

The Inca Trail is no Place for Soft Journalists

The Famed Inca Trail

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Cuzco

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Festivals

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A festival at 15,000 feet

Qoyllur Riti is considered the
largest Andean pilgrimage in
the Peruvian highlands. In
early June this festival gathers
more than 10,000 pilgrims in a
fascinating mix of the region's
Catholic and pagan traditions.
Although it is in fact a Christian ceremony, the main
reason for the observance is
to celebrate the integration of
man with nature. The shrine of
Qoyllur Riti is located on a
steep mountain, at some
15,000 feet, and is seldom
visited by anyone other than
the actual pilgrims. The ritual
consists of thousands of
people from nearby rural

22

communities carrying images

of Christ, crosses and offerings up to the summit. The
more pious recite special
prayers throughout the journey
and perform rituals as soon as
the shrine and surrounding
sacred landmarks rst come
into view. They are joined by
large troupe of musicians and
dancers dressed in costums
symbolizing various mythical characters and performing elaborately choreographed
dances. If you are one of the
few tourists to witness the
intense energy of this ritual, it
will ll you with a sense that
you have been part of something very powerful.

Learn about Perus mythical Andean creatures

Qoyllur Riti tries to become green
Andean and Catholic beliefs at Qoyllur Riti

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Lima

The museum is called Museo de Arte de Lima

and is located inside Parque de la Exposicin at
Paseo Colon 125 in downtown Lima.

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City Sights

Keep up-to date with exhibits by visiting

LivinginPeru.com's event calendar.

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Limas Museum of art

The Lima Art Museum possesses the largest and most
representative art collection in
Peru. Its exhibitions reect the
wealth and breadth of Peruvian art and culture in the last
millennium. The museum
houses more than 3,000 years
of Peruvian art and includes
pieces by the most inuential
cultures to have ever inhabited
Peru. The Moche, Vicus,
Nazca, Chim, Chancay and
Ica-Chinca are some of the
civilizations whose art pieces
are showcased in its nine
galleries. Its halls also exhibit
pre-Columbian textiles,

23

ceramics and carvings, as well

as furniture and silverware
from the Colonial Period. Its
Republican period pieces
interestingly reect the political and social changes the
country was going thorough at
the time. The history of
national photography is also
chronicled in an exhibition of
photographs from 1842
when photography was rst
introduced to Peru until
today. The museum successfully meets its mission of being
a force in the "spreading and
creation of a living culture."

Other Lima museums:

Museo Larco and Museo de la Nacin.

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Lima

The two top peas in Barranco are Pea Del

Carajo on Catalino Miranda 158 and De Rompe
y Raja on Manuel Segura 127.

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Festivals

For a night of spectaculer Andean folkloric dancing, go to Brisas del Titicaca in downtown
Lima. The stage lls up with audience members
dancing between performances.

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Party at a pea
For those seeking a vibrant party atmosphere with live entertainment, dancing and
delicious Peruvian creole food, a Pea is
where you need to be. These venues are
an intimate way to see live creole music.
Famous for being the training grounds of
local performers, as legends like Eva Ayllon
and Arturo "Zambo" Cavero began their
careers in Peas by winning the hearts of
local crowds. There are several peas
scattered throughout Lima and the best of
them are in Barranco and Miraores. They
are popular among the young, old, locals

24

and tourists who are attracted to their

traditional showcases where singers
and dancers interact with the audience. Whether you are the extroverted,
jump-right-in type or more of a wallower, once you have sat down at a
Pea you will want to join in. From the
hollow richness of the Afro-Peruvian
cajon to the piercing notes of the
criollo guitar, a Pea shows you the heart
of a Limeo creole party.

Viva La Pea! A Gringos visit to De

Rompe y Raja

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The Coast

Luxury places include DCO boutique hotel and

La Sirena (Av. Piura 326).

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Outdoors

Top hostels are Loki and Kokopelli (whose new

pool is shown below).

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Mancora
Mancora has become one of
the trendiest beach towns in
Peru, known for its
beautiful endless beaches,
year-round sun, world-class
surng, seafood, and vibrant
nightlife. Outdoor activities,
parties and luxury pampering
is the name of the game in
Mancora. There are hostels
and small restaurants for the
meager budget; hotels and
restaurants for the mid-ranged
traveler; and luxury beach
resorts and ne dining. During
the day, visitors can enjoy the
crystal clear waves and white
sand beaches that offer a
quiet haven and a peaceful

25

Luxury spots in Mancora

break from city life. Tourists ll

the cafs, seafood restaurants, gourmet diners, and
beachside bars, where local
delicacies include ceviche,
pulpo al olivo (grilled octopus
with olive sauce) and tuna
saltado (stir-fried tuna). Mancora also has a booming
international cuisine with
avors from Thailand, Mexico,
Italy, Japan, and more. At
night, the younger crowds ll
nightclubs and bars, with
parties often lasting until
sunrise. Try horseback riding
on the beach, surng, kitesurng, nearby canopy zip line
tours. Then go for a massage
or simply relax on the sand.

Quiet beach time at Las Pocitas

A trip to Mancora

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The Coast

The Museum is open 9 a.m.-5 p.m., closed on

Mondays. Address: Av. Juan Pablo Vizcardo and
Av. Guzman, in Lambayeque, 74-28-3978.

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Prehispanic

A nearby hotel is San Roque.

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tHE LORD OF SIPAN MUSEUM

The tomb of the Moche Lord, commonly
known as the Lord of Sipan, is located near
Huaca Rajada in by the Northern city of Lambayeque. Besides gold relics, jewelry and
other offerings, this high-ranking leader was
buried in full regalia along with eight
guests to accompany him to his afterlife.
It is considered one of the most signicant
archaeological discoveries in Peru because
the main tomb was found intact. This nding
has been invaluable to scholars interested in
American prehistory, who now know that the
Moche people were skilled metal workers.
In 2002, local government opened the Royal
Tombs Museum of Sipan, which exhibits the
excavation's most important ndings. The
highlights of the exhibition are restored gold

26

and silver adornments, a display of the

restoration work itself, and the remains
of the Lord and his guests. Visit the
warm northern coast of Peru and
experience one of the most important
archaeological sites and museums of
recent times.

Sipn Museum: In the Style of Ancient

Mochica Temples

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The Coast

Biosfera Tours is a great local ecological your

agency. Los Viedos offers tour packages from
their hotel in Tumbes.

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Wildlife

Budadar is a restuarant-lounge to relax after a

day in the mangroves.

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Mangroves of Tumbes
Tumbes is a tiny coastal department in northwestern Peru,
so little that it sometimes even
gets bumped from maps of
Peru. Despite its small size,
however, the region has a
wide variety of ecosystems:
mangroves, the only coastal
tropical forests in Peru, and a
rich and warm sea. Furthermore, more than half of the
regions territory is covered by
protected natural areas: the
Manglares de Tumbes
National Sanctuary, the Cerros
de Amotape National Park and
the Tumbes Reserve Zone.

You can go horseback riding

through dense forests and
surng in white sand beaches
all in the same day. What also
makes Tumbes so exceptional
is that this area hardly experiences any large-scale tourism.
Add to that Tumbes' extraordinary marine cuisine
including-mouth watering
spicy shrimp stew and plantain served in shellsh sauce
and you'll experience why
Tumbes won't stay a hidden
corner of Peru for much
longer.

27

Reections on Ten Years of Travel: An

Interview with Rafo Len

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All of Peru

Make it using our recipe here.

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Food

Top Lima restaurants with great lomo saltado

include Jose Antonio in San Isidro,
El Grifo in Callao, and El Fogn in La Molina.

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Eat a Lomo saltado

Lomo saltado is a tasty Peruvian creole dish
made by stir frying marinated sirloin strips with
red onions, tomatoes, as well as spices. Then
you mix with homemade potato fries.
The beef stir fry as it is affectionately known
by Peruvians, can be served alone, though it is
traditionally enjoyed with a side serving of rice
that is usually splashed with the gravy left over
from sauteing the meat and vegetables.
Although its roots trace back to the city of
Lima, it is an archetype of the now world
famous harmonious blends that have been
conceived by the cultural diversity of Peruvian
gastronomy.

28

This culinary gem can be found in some of the

most unique places around Peru and in a
dazzling assortment of presentations.
You can purchase its sandwich version in a
local street cart on your way to work, or enjoy
it as the luscious main course in some of
Peru's most rened restaurants.
Wherever you go in Peru, Lomo Saltado is
distinguished as an unchallenged national
favorite that has earned its place as the crown
jewel of Peruvian creole cuisine.

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Amazon

Take a trip with Dawn on the Amazon, based

out of Iquitos. Other companies include Aqua
Expeditions, Amazon River Expeditions and

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Wildlife

Amazon Voyagers (866-725-3255).

(See the articles in the Read More section about
DIY in a cargo boat.)

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Amazon river boat trip

cramped cargo boat, every
bend in the river will offer
glimpses of wildlife. You will
nd yourself dodging moths
the size of small birds, or
staring in awe as the pilot
steers the ship through cluster
after cluster of ve-foot-long
lily pads. No documentary can
capture the beauty of a the
Peruvian Amazon, home to
quiet and haunting sunrises.

Escape from the rest of the

world and enter the Peruvian
Amazon: a lush and secluded
rain forest, indigenous cultures,
swaying hammocks and the
world's most voluminous river.
Depart from the banks of the
Ucayali river in Pucallpa and
cruise a 932 miles of the Peruvian Amazon river into Iquitos,
a city that can only be reached
by airplane or boat.
Whether aboard a luxurious
cruise ship or embarking on a

29

La Vida Lancha: River Riding in the

Amazon
Five Days on a Cargo Boat Through the
Amazon

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Amazon

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Wildlife

Agencies that will bring you out for pink dolphin

spotting includes: Deln Amazon Cruises,
Aqua Expeditions and Dawn on the Amazon.

return

Spotting pink dolphins

The rare Amazon river
dolphins are not only unusual
because they live in freshwater, but because the males of
the species are pink as bubble
gum. You can catch a good
glimpse of these rare creatures during ood season,
when their eagerness for the
larger volumes of sh in the
Amazon waters make them
more willing to being around
humans.
Their bending bodies look
graceful swimming effortlessly
through branches and
smoothly gliding around knotted trunks, even though some
are eight to ten foot long and

30

can weigh 200 pounds.

Equally captivating is to see
them almost glow orange as
they navigate the Amazon's
silty waters lightly charged
with traces of drifting vegetation. Freshwater dolphins are
not endangered, but they're
rarely seen by humans. You
are fortunate if you get to spot
them during an Amazon
cruise, or (if you dare) go
looking for them on a paddle
boat and actually get to catch
them at play. The second
option will give you the rare,
but possible, chance of swimming in the middle of the
Amazon surrounded by them.

Our Study of the Amazon Pink Dolphin

And read about Perus Pacic Ocean
dolphins: NGO in Peru sees tourism as
the way to protect dolphins

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Amazon

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City Sights

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Floating Barrios of Belen

Built on stilts and rafts on the
banks of the Amazon River in
Iquitos, the oating city of
Belen and its market are both
fascinating, chaotic and stunning. Half marketplace, half
slum, Belen sits on the river
bank and in the river itself
its buildings wrap around a hill
that trails out into the wash of
the Amazon River. Most of the
houses are wooden raft shanties with corrugated tin roofs
that are able to oat with the
changing height of the river.
Despite it being one of the
poorest neighborhoods in the
world, all around you can see
kids laughing as they play in or
near the water, men in shabby

31

boats making a living transporting locals and tourists,

and early risers diligently
washing their clothes through
holes in the oors of their
homes. And at the top of the
hill sits the marketplace whose
stalls display an amazing array
of colors and scents, displaying every kind of known vegetable, meat and treat. Its
bizarre "witch medicine"
section displays a huge selection of herbs, potions and
shamans boasting to have the
cure for any possible ailment
is particularly interesting.
Belen is a raw glimpse at
humanity.

Clown volunteers bring paint and joy to

slums of Belen

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The Coast

In the city of Nazca, two luxury options are Casa

Andina and Hotel Cantayo. A budget option is
Walkon Inn.

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Prehispanic

Two miles from the city lie the impressive network of underground aqueducts, called Cantalloc. The entrance is only three soles ($1).

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Fly over the Nazca Lines

Ever enigmatic, the Nazca
lines are remarkable ancient
designs etched into the
grounds of Peru's southern
desert. The ground carvings
range in intricacy and design.
But the subjects of the more
artistic glyphs are chiey
animal or plant based including more than 70 stylized
animals, birds, sh and human
gures. Although there are
several observatories in the
area, these immense lines that
stretch for miles are better
appreciated from above.
Most y-over tours are
approximately half an hour

32

long, but tourist pilots make

sure to circle each one of the
designs to ensure visitors
have plenty of opportunity to
see and marvel over the
lines. The hundreds of geoglyphs were constructed by
the Nazca culture more than
1,500 years ago and extend
more than 190 square miles.
Ever since their discovery the
town of Nazca has become
one of Peru's top tourist
attractiion. Visitors from all
over the world travel to see
these puzzling, magnicent
creations of Peru's early
coastal civilizations.

The Nazca Lines: An Incredible Fly-Over

We know who drew these shapes in
Peru's desert. But why?

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The Coast

Asia Boulevard parties hard from January to

April, and is dead for the rest of the year. Top
bars and clubs in the 2010 season were Nikita,

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Shopping

La 97, La Huaka, Tragaluz and Depeche Order,

to name a few. Visit LivinginPeru.com come
December for a preview of hot places in 2011.

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Shop And Party at Asia Beach

The beaches of Asia, at the 96
kilometer mark on the southern span of the Peruvian
Pan-American Highway, are
among the most exclusive and
sought after summer getaways in all of Peru. Although
unpopulated for most of the
year, during the summer
months Asia is the central
scene of upscale nightlife and
beach house parties.
It is the favorite hub of young,
afuent socialites looking to
party and be seen. In the last
couple of years, however, Asia
has increasingly drawn in a

33

more-low-key kind of crowd.

The emergence of spas, country clubs and family beach
residences has recently made
Asia a more family-friendly
scene. Asia's southern boulevard, with its open air restaurants, can be the ideal place to
spend family time on warm
and breezy summer nights
its outdoor restaurants and
open-air mall atmosphere
make it the ideal youth hang
out. Asia has a lot of sun and
a little bit of everything for
anyone looking to retreat from
Lima's bustling pace.

Get your Party On: Nightlife in Asia

Boulevard, Summer 2010

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The Coast

Using the city of Trujillo as your home base, stay

at Hotel Los Conquistadores off the Plaza de
Armas. Eat at El Mochica restaurant, on Bolivar

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Prehispanic

462. Still cant get enough archaeology? Visit a

gas station-turned artefacts museum, the
Museo Cassinelli.

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Adobe city of Chan chan

The largest Pre-Columbian
city in the Americas, and the
largest adobe city on earth, is
Chan Chan. Located in La
Libertad, some ve miles west
of Trujillo and eight hours by
car from Lima, Chan Chan is a
gorgeous archaeological site
in the desert and one of Peru's
most important.
Once the great capital of the
Chimu empire, it comprises
more than 10,000 structures.
Some of these were palaces
and temples with walls rising
as high as 30 feet tall and
decorated with elaborate
friezes hundreds of feet long.
It once contained a dozen

34

citadels, workshops, warehouses, plazas, a royal cemetery and pyramid temples.

This adobe metropolis was
once a chief state in Peru and
very wealthy, with
walls adorned with precious metals. The Chimu were
the engineering society of the
New World: Despite Chan
Chan being located in one of
the of the world's most barren
coastal deserts, its network of
irrigation canals kept elds
and gardens ourishing. This
massive complex stands as a
striking testament to the
sophisticated society that
once inhabited it.

Chan Chan, the Melting City of the

Chimu
Nearby: Visit the tranquil beach village
of Huanchaco

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Desert Adventures offers dune buggy excursions at a fair price. Backpacker options in Huacachina include Sol de Ica, and Carolas del Sur.

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Adventure

El Huacachinero is a mid-range option. See

huacachina.com for more information in English.

return

Dune Buggy Riding

Located just outside the bustling city of Ica, and known as
the Oasis of America, Huacachina is a tiny village built
around a natural lagoon.
Surrounding Huacachina are
towering sand dunes standing
several hundred feet high and
extending for miles into the
horizon.
Because few places in the
world offer sand dunes the
size of the ones found in
Huacachina, it has become
well known for attracting
tourists from all over the world

drawn to the novelty of racing

up and down the steep dunes
at zooming speeds while
strapped to four-wheel-drive
dune buggies. Not to mention
the incredible landscape views
and colors, especially the
desert sunsets visible from the
rim of these dunes during
late-afternoon rides.
If youre a fan of rollercoasters and adventure
sports, dune buggy riding in
Huacachina is essential for a
complete trip to southern
Peru.

35

Discovering Desert Lagoons in Icas

desert

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The Coast

See a recipe for aji de gallina.

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Food

Two upscale restaurants from all star chef

Gaston Acurio serves aji de gallina. Read about
Panchita and Tanta.

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AjI de gallina
vian cooking), and garnished
with slices of hard boiled eggs
and black olives.

Aji de Gallina is a homey

creole dish that is a true favorite among the locals. The dish
consists of shredded chicken
(the gallina part) in a creamy
and mildly spicy yellowpepper cream (the aji part). It
has a gravy-like smoothness
to its consistency. Aji de
Gallina is served as an entre
over a bed of sliced boiled
potatoes, with a side of rice
(doubling on carbs is also a
classic in down home Peru-

Aji de Gallina is a respected

delicacy across the spectrum
of Lima eateries: You'll nd it
at ve-star restaurants,
humble downtown eateries,
and mobile food stands. The
best place to have it, though,
is at the house of a Peruvian
family.

36

click photo

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The Coast

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Volunteering

Visit the WAVES website to sign up.

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Surf and volunteer

WAVES for Development
makes it possible to
take your passion for surng
and use it to make a difference. The idea for WAVES
Water Adventure Voluntourism
Education Sustainability
originated on the beaches of
northern Peru in late 2004,
when a group of local and
international surfers shared a
desire to help local youth with
little resources enjoy surng.
Since then, volunteers from
around the world have been
able to help kids in the town of
Lobitos (near Mancora) build
condence, stay healthy and
foster meaningful relationships
while enjoying the natural

environment. Volunteers work

daily at schools, side-by-side
with teachers, teaching english. If joining, you are encouraged to develop a personal
project according to your
strengths and interests. This
could be beach clean-ups,
guitar lessons, photography,
physical education or art, for
example. And you don't have
to be a surfer to participate
but if you want to learn, that's
an extra perk.

37
WAVES: How to surf Peru and volunteer
in the beach town of Lobitos

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Arequipa

Eating and cafe lounging is a must after

sightseeing in Arequipa. The stone walkway
behind the cathedral offers quaint cafes and

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City Sights

pizza joints. For top cuisine, try novo-andino

food at Zig-Zag, and Chicha, Gaston Acurios
restaurant that focuses on regional specialties.

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Relax in Arequipas square

Everywhere you look in
Arequipas main square, the
Plaza de Armas from
century-old cathedrals to
government buildings
the color of white shimmers
back at you. Standing there,
one is surrounded by veranda
porches and a lively atmosphere. Arequipas still active
volcano, Misti, provides a
striking backdrop to the pristine white of the plaza. At
night, the plaza is equally as
stunning with a well-lit ambience that provides beauty and
tranquility. The impressive
twin-towered Basilica Cathe-

dral of Arequipa dominates the

entire north side of the square.
Although repeatedly suffered
damages from earthquakes
and res, its arched walkways,
arcaded buildings, and several
cafes and restaurants, one
can see why it is considered
one of the most beautiful
colonial cathedrals in Peru.
Spend a day in the center of
La Ciudad Blanca and
discover its well-earned reputation as a proud colonial city.

38

Arequipa: The White City

New York Times Frugal Traveler Visits
Arequipa

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Arequipa

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Outdoors

Pablo Tours is an Arequipa-based agency that

leads treks into Cotahuasi.

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Cotahuasi canyon
The Cotahuasi Canyon, some 230 miles from
the city of Arequipa, is the deepest canyon in
the Americas.
Reaching a maximum depth of 11,597 feet, it
is more famously known for its steep variations in elevation ranging from 3,280 to 19,990
feet. It is also home to the largest and highest
volcano in Peru, the Coropuna volcano. In
1988 the Canyon became a National Tourist
Reserve and has since rapidly attracted
adventure travelers. The Cotahuasi River has
several miles of Class IV and Class V white
water rapids, waterfalls and is ideal for moun-

39

tain climbing, hiking, mountain biking and

kayaking.
Within the reserve you will also have the
opportunity to visit some historical remains of
the Wari and Inca civilizations, several hanging
bridges, rock and cacti forests, medicinal hot
springs and exotic ora and fauna.
Come explore its ravines and be captivated by
its abysses which are attracting adventure
lovers from all over the world.

Cotahuasi, the Hidden Jewel of

Arequipa
The Deepest Canyon in the World

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Arequipa

Entrance costs 35 soles, a steep price compared

to other sites in Arequipa, but worth it. Hours are
9-5 p.m., and until 8 p.m. during high seasons.

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City Sights

See the website. A smaller monastery is the

charming La Recolecta, a 20-minute walk from
Arequipa's center (Recoleta 117, 54-27-0966).

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MazeLike Monastery in AreQuipa

Founded in 1579, the
Santa Catalina Monastery
is one of the most
treasured religious monuments in Peru. It is practically
a small village of MoorishChristian architecture, containing 3 cloisters, 6 streets,
80 housing units, a square, an
art gallery and a cemetery.
The monastery was founded
by a rich widow, and over time
attracted a number of women
of wealth and social standing
as novices. Although the nuns
entered the convent having
taken vows of poverty, most
of them paid a dowry to enter

40

and brought with them their

servants, slaves, household
comforts and other luxuries.
Evidence of the lavish lifestyle
enjoyed by these sequestered
nuns can now be seen in the
remaining art collections,
elegant arched colonnades,
vegetation-lined passageways, fountains, and chapels.
By 1970, the now poor community of nuns opened most
of the monastery as a
museum to pay for the installation of electricity and running
water and has since become
one of Arequipa's main tourist
attractions.

Get thee to a nunnery: The story of

Santa Catalina

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Lima

Besides for a trip to coffee-growing regions (see

Read More section), youll nd Perus best beans
in only a few cafes in Lima. Go to Arabica
Espresso Bar, (Recavarren 269 Miraores), Caf

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Food

Z (Diagonal 598, Miraores), Caf Verde (Santa

Cruz 1305, Miraores) Organika Coffee (C. C.
Caminos del Inca, Chacarilla), Caf-Bodega
Santa Isabel (Carabaya 520, Downtown Lima).

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Drink peruvian coffee

Recently coffee from Peru has
been named some of the best
in the world. Tunkimayo coffee
from Puno, for example, recently
won the prestigious Best
Gourmet Specialty Coffee
international award. We
know you will love it.
By now Peruvian coffee
has been taken its place
in the echelon of the world's
top coffee-producing nations.
Peru is a top producer of fair

trade varieties, and coffee is

currently Peru's largest
agricultural export. Also, Peru
is the world's leading
producer of organic coffee.
The rare and expensive
Uchinari gourmet coffee
recently joined the roster of
Peruvian coffees. Have steaming cup of Peruvian coffee
with a late afternoon lunch,
and treat your palate to the
wonderful aroma and depth of
avor you will nd in Peru

41

Peruvian Coffee: The Story of a Farmer

from Cuzco
Discover the best coffee in Peru: Travel
to the central jungle

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Lima

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City Sights

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Art Galleries in Lima

The economy isn't the only thing
expanding in Peru. The art scene in
Lima is healthier than ever, as Peruvian talent opts to stay in their capital
and foreign artists are attracted to the
buzz. See a list of galleries to visit in
the next column. We'll highlight one of
the top galleries in Barranco: Galleria
Lucia de la Puente (see pictures on
left). Since its establishment in 1995, it
has dedicated itself to the promotion
of national artists. It is housed in a
beautiful restored mansion, where it
shows bold exhibitions of photography, paintings, sculptures and digital
art. Peru is not just Prehispanic artefacts: Enjoy the vibrant modern art
scene while in Lima.

42

Go there
Lucia de la Puente, Galeria de Arte
Paseo Saenz Pea 206 A, Barranco
Pedro de Osma Gallery
Avenida Pedro de Osma 423, Barranco
Enlace Arte Contemporneo
Avenida Pardo y Aliaga 676, Miraores
Vertice Galeria de Arte
Plascencia 350, San Isidro
Artco Galeria de Arte
Rouad y Paz Soldan 325, San Isidro
Galeria Indigo
Av. El Bosque 260, San Isidro
Bruno Gallery
Calle Francia 565 B, Miraores

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Lima

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Shopping

Larcomar has a complete listing of stores and

services on their website, in English.

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mall Time on Limas Bluffs

theater. And ever-present is
the panoramic view.
You will see families eating ice
cream, teenagers making a
beeline to Bembo's (Peru's
best hamburger joint) and
older couples admiring the
sunset while enjoying a cup of
coffee among friends. Larcomar is the place to enjoy
modern day comforts,
and see and be seen.

With a stunning view of the

Pacic, Larcomar is a multistoried, open air shopping
center built into the side
of the ocean's bluffs. Thousands
of visitors an eclectic mix of
locals, tourists, young and old
alike are attracted to this
icon of modern Lima. There is
always something to do in
Larcomar: There is the Peruvian Museum of Gold, highend restaurants, fast food
joints, fashion boutiques, a
bowling alley and a movie

43

Top 10 Places to Meet Expats in Lima

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All of Peru

See store locations on Ilaris website.

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Shopping

Other top stores selling silver include Kolke

Peru, CMC By Camusso, Mili Blume, and
stores along Avenida La Paz in Miraores.

return

Shop for Silver

Ilaria Jewelry is one of the
largest producers and distributors of top quality Peruvian silver
jewelry and art.
It was founded by Florentine
artist Ilaria Ciabatti (shown here
on far left) who became fascinated with Peruvian silverwork and
viceroyal history since the day
she rst set foot on Peruvian
soil.
Since its inauguration, Ilaria has
established itself as a driving
force in the rebirth of Peruvian
silversmithing.
All of Ilaria's pieces are distin-

44

guished for their use of Peruvian

silver, stone, and natural
elements. Their secret to success seems to lie in their use of
silversmithing techniques that
date back as far as the times of
the Inca empire.
Furthermore, their works are the
result of collaboration by a team
comprised of one hundred local
artisans, silversmiths, stonecutters and wood carvers. Just
catch a glimmer of Ilaria's creations, and you will understand
the true meaning of Peruvian
craftmanship.

Lima Fashion: Ilaria and Michelle Belau

present fall collections
Peru: Top silver producer, but what
about adding value?

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Lima

The San Francisco Museum is on Plaza San

Francisco, between Jiron Ancash and Lampa in
Downtown Lima. Also worth seeing are the Iglesia de Jesus, Maria y Jose on Camana and

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City Sights

Moquegua, and Iglesia de San Pedro on Azngaro and Ucayali. To dwell on the evils committed by the church, visit the Museum of the
Inquisition on Plaza Bolivar (Jiron Junin 548).

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Visit Limas Oldest Churches

The Iglesia de San Francisco, built in 1674, is
the most visited church in Lima. The church is
an outstanding example of the Lima Baroque
colonial church. Its impressive neo-classical
altar, glazed ceramic tiles, lovely cloistered
courtyards and carved ceilings also make an
impression.
When visiting, peek inside its museum, which
holds excellent examples of religious art,
especially wooden carvings of saints and
portraits of the apostles. A library has a splendid collection of antique texts, many dating to

45

the rst year after Lima's colonial founding.

But most striking are its vast catacombs dug
in 1546 as the city's rst burial ground until the
main cemetery was built. These underground
tunnels contain the bones of as many as
75,000 bodies, including a well lined with
perfectly laid skulls and femurs. It is by far the
most moving component of the Iglesia de San
Francisco the capital's most fascinating
church.

A visit to the San Francisco convent

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Lima

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City Sights

The full name is El Circuito Mgico del Agua. Its

between Av. Petit Thuars and Jr. Madre de Dios:
330-3052 or 332-9417.

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Limas Magical water Park

The Parque de la Reserva in downtown Lima

has a fountain park designed to enthrall visitors with shows of water, music, and laser
lights. Called the Magic Water Tour, it
currently holds the world record for being the
largest fountain complex in the world. It consists of 13 distinct fountains, many of which

are interactive. All of the fountains are

lighted at night, many with continuously changing colors. All the lively
performances from each of the fountains in the park's collection are unique
and elaborate. The largest fountain
reaches more than 260 feet high.
Additional attractions include the
Tunnel Fountain of Surprises, a walkthrough tunnel of water; the Childrens
Fountain, a walk-in interactive fountain; and the Fantasia Fountain, that
synchronizes a laser and picture show
to music.
These synchronized water spectacles
are not the only features in this modern

46

Lima attraction. The water park also exhibits

a unique collection of sculptures conceived
by Peruvian artists.
Its a wonderful public space where Lima
residents from all social backgrounds join
tourists to appreciate the fountains.

Photo Essay: The Magical Water Park

Four parks you need to visit in Lima

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The Coast

Two top distilleries to visit are Vias de Oro in

Chincha and Sarcay in Azpitia. Close to Lima,
visit the Queirolo bodega in Pachacamac (Call

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Food

EnoTours: 261-3772). And be sure to drink good

pisco: See our popular article, The Best 11
Piscos in the World.

return

Visit a Pisco Distillery

What better way to capture the true spirit of

Peru's most beloved spirit than to visit a pisco
distillery. These bodegas can be found along
Perus southern coast: the regions of Lima, Ica,
Arequipa, Moquegua and Tacna.

Since Peru concentrates more in the

traditional distilling method, these
bodegas are a proud testimony to the
art of distilling and their tours will take
you to the very heart of pisco making.
Several of these wineries are familyrun businesses that produce handcrafted pisco and provide guided tours
showcasing how Peruvians have
preserved the original way of making
Pisco ever since the 18th century.
They will take you behind the scenes
from the starting point in which the
grapes are picked from the vines, to
their warehouses where the grape
juice is fermented then distilled. After

47

the informative tour (bring your notebook so

you can impress Limeos later on) enjoy the
best part: taste the distillery's different pisco
varieties.
Share our passion for Peru's national spirit
and learn the secrets of pisco.

Following the Pisco Route

Photos: A visit to Vias de Oro

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All of Peru

You wont have any problems nding Inca Kola

in Peru. However, we recommend you try drinking a glass bottle of it at a local tienda or kiosk.

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Food

Youll need to stay there in order to return the

bottle to the vendor its an authentic Peru
experience.

Drink Inca Kola

Just ask any Peruvian what his or her favorite
soda is. The answer will be probably always
be: Inca Kola.

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The makers of this golden cola, with its royal

blue Inca motif, have every right to boast. This
local favorite has dominated the Peruvian
market from day one.
Newcomers to Peru are typically turned off by
the bubble gum taste and radioactive color.
But just ask that skeptic how he or she feels
about Inca Kola after living in Peru for a year.

48

The soda pop consistently eclipses all other

carbonated drinks including Coca Cola (its
owner, by the way). Part of the appeal to
Peruvians, perhaps, is national pride. Slogans
include "The avor of Peru!" "Peru's drink!"
and "the icon of Peruvian identity."
You'll see Inca Kola everywhere. And if you
don't love it already, just give it a few more
tries.

The Little Cola that Could: History of

Inca Kola
Interview withy Jhonny Lindley, Owner
of Inca Kola

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The Coast

Sandboard Peru, run by Martin Guerra, promotes the sport and organizes events.
Hotel Belle Sand in Ica offers sandboarding

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Adventure

trips. Ask for Dito. In Huacachina, stay at

Mosone Hotel or Carolas del Sur Hostel. Try The
Pub for drinks and Arenas for dancing.

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Sandboard in Perus desert

Sandboarding is a top newcomer to the action sports
scene, and Peru's desert
provide the best natural spots
for adrenaline seekers to try it.
Peru has some of the
largest sand dunes in the
world and draws a steady
stream of professional and
amateur boarders. The best
place to start is La Huacachina Oasis in Ica, a party
town where you can rent
boards and eventually graduate to try the 500-foot dunes.
Lomo de Corvina in Lima has
700-foot sand rises and the
steep dunes in Casma, Areq-

49

uipa reach 900 feet. However,

the most impressive of them
all is Cerro Blanco, the "Everest of the Desert. With its
steepest peak at an intimidating height of 2,000 feet, it
holds the title of the highest
dune in the world. Some of
these locations also host
international sandboard competitions throughout the year.
Whether you are a beginner or
an expert, hurtling down these
slopes on nothing but a thin
board is guaranteed to be a
fun adventure that gets the
blood rushing.

Huacachina: Sandboarding, the Desert

and an Oasis

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All of Peru

Where to nd it in Lima: Parque Donofrio in

Miraores across from Parque Kennedy; Gelateria Laritza ( Av. Comandante Espinar 800, Mira-

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Food

ores); Pasteleria San Antonio (all over Lima);

4D Gelateria (in Limas airport, among other
places); Sorbets & Ice Cream Caf in Lince.

indulge in lucuma ice cream

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One the most interesting things you

will discover, if you ever set out to buy
yourself an ice cream cone in Peru, is
that they may not always have your
basic favorites: strawberry, chocolate
or vanilla. But they will always have
lucuma. Ask any local to suggest an
ice cream avor and they will most
likely mention lucuma.
Lucuma ice cream has a unique, exotic
taste with a surprising, mildly dusty
sandiness within its rich, creamy,
avor comparisons can be made to
dulce de leche, perfumed with vanilla.
You will also taste hints of sweet

50

potato, traces of peach, and just the mildest

insinuation of maple. Its distinctive earthy
creaminess denitely lives up to its reputation. Its is no wonder this subtropical delicacy exceeds the demand of all other
avors in Peru.

VIDEO: A Taste of Peru visits an Ice

Cream Shop
Ice Cream Shops in Lima

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Hemi River Adventures is a tour operator based

in Lunahuana. If staying the night, consider

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Outdoors

El Tambo. For good eats, Refugio de Santiago

serves it Andean and organic.

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Rafting in Lunahuana
Just two hours from Lima,
Lunahuana is a serene agricultural village that in recent
years has become a hot spot
for adventure sports. Located
in the province of Caete, the
valley offers great opportunities for canoeing, white water
rafting, mountain biking,
kayaking, shing and hunting.
This town has become a
tourist center with its adventure sports festival held every
late February or early March.
With adrenaline opportunities
aplenty for sports enthusiasts

and sunshine all year round for

those wishing to enjoy the
benets of the countryside,
Lunahuana is a rst rate tourist destination. And just in
case extreme sports are not
your idea of fun in the sun, this
pastoral village is also known
as the land of giant shrimp,
wine and pisco. Lunahunana
has several wine shops and
cellars offering free samples
year round and it makes some
of Peru's best pisco.

51

Rafting in Lunahuana, a Sunny Winter

Getaway for Expats
Adventure Sports Festival at Lunahuana

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The Coast

Perukite is owned by Peru's pioneering kitesurng couple. They offer lessons with qualied
instructors right on Paracas Bay, and also operate out of Mancora. Right on Paracas Bay are

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Adventure

two luxury hotels, the Doubletree and La Hacienda. The village of Paracas offers cheap hostels. While in Paracas, make sure to go for a
drink at the gorgeous bar at Hotel Paracas.

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Kitesurf in Paracas
Three hours south of Lima,
Paracas is the ideal location to
try the latest in extreme
sports: kite surng. Nearly
constant wind, placid protected waters, desert landscape and nearby luxury and
backpacking accommodations
make Paracas Bay one of the
best places in the world to kite
surf. This hybrid sport, a mix
of both kiting and surng, has
taken over the water recreation areas of some of the
world's most popular
beaches. The cool thing about

kite surng is that you get a

high rush of adrenaline with
very little risk. Simply by
harnessing the power of the
wind and ocean, your board
can reach top speeds as you
y as high as 20 feet up in the
air. It is specially thrilling when
the wind picks up to a given
threshold and jumps and
loops come in to play. Pack
your bathing suit and get
psyched, kite surng in Paracas is Peru's latest in fun.

52

Latin America's New Kite Surng Paradise

What the Wind Brought to Peru

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Lima

See a recipe for causa. The restaurant Mi Causa

is dedicated to causa creations. Other top restaurants to try a causa in Lima include: El Grifo,

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Food

next to Jorge Chavez airport; El Embrujo, Berlin

536 in Miraores; and El Mercado, a trendy new
creole joint by chef Rafael Osterling.

RETURN

Try CAusa, the patriotic appetizer

Causa is the most famous
hors d'uvre in all of Peru and
a dish very typical to Lima. In
its basic form, causa is yellow
mashed potato mixed with
lime juice, aji pepper, oil and a
touch of salt.

Lima's top restaurants are

serving it in crazy shapes and
with exotic llings. But the
classic preparation is with
tuna stufng, served cold with
slices of hard boiled egg and
olives.

The story goes that causa was

created a day after Jos de
San Martin declared Peru's
independence, hence its
name, causa, the cause.
Causa can be molded into all
sorts of shapes and sizes, and
its versatility allows for all
sorts of variations. Chefs in

Trying causa is a must for

visitors in Lima few festive
meals are started without a
causa appetizer, so hang
around long enough and
you're sure to get your ll.

53

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Amazon

Eco-Amazon Lodge leads tours in Madre de

Dios. Otorongo Expeditions is an option for
cruises and outdoor activities in Loreto.

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Outdoors

Wasai Lodge & Expeditions operates out of

Puerto Maldonado. Latino Travel leads tours to
Pucallpa.

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Experience Perus amazon

The Peruvian Amazon is perhaps the most exotic and
remote refuge you can escape
to. Occupying more than 60
percent of Peru, it is one of the
most biologically diverse
regions in the world and is
teeming with distinct wildlife
and ora.
The list includes more than
50,000 types of plants, 2,000
species of sh and almost
2,000 species of birds; not to
mention the hundreds of
mammals and reptiles inhabiting the area. Peru's Amazon
occupies more than half of the
country, yet no more than ve
percent of the population lives
there. Water being the main

54

life source and ruling body of

the region, it limits most of
local and tourist transportation
to its vast river system which
can only be traversed by
dugout canoe, motorboat, or
large riverboats. With the
recent explosion of ecotourism in Peru, it has become
a hot spot for birding, animal
spotting and jungle trekking
enthusiasts. And it is even
more popular among those
looking for some river life
adventure. Lush and tranquil,
haunting in its immensity, the
Peruvian Amazon is as close
as you will get to the Garden
of Eden on Earth.

Treasures in the Amazon: Pucallpa

Health Tips for Rainforest Travel
Walking the Amazon River from Peru to Brazil
A Journey into Perus Amazon

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The Amazon Adventure

Contact information for 2011 race: Linda Flynn,

linda_ynn2003@yahoo.com and Mike Collis,
michaelcollis@hotmail.com.

See race notices and sign-up information on

their Facebook page and the ofcial blog.

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The amazon river raft race

The Amazon River Raft Race owns the bragging rights to being the Worlds Longest Rafting Race. For the past ten years, the Amazon
Rafting Club invites adventurers from every
corner of the world to compete on this 112mile-long, three-day race. And as if paddling

112 miles through the steamy rainforest wasn't hard enough, there's
another catch: Your team has to build
your own raft with the logs you are
provided.
There is always a fun and eclectic mix
of competitors of all levels and ages.
There are pros who have invested
months training and engineering
impressive, nely-tuned vesselmasterpieces usually locals. Then
there are participants who just want to
survive and have fun, so they can brag
about the feat back home (their log
rafts are often makeshift contraptions
held together by jungle twine and a

55

prayer usually tourists. Once the megaphone yells "Go!" you will take on the
mighty Amazon and realize why the organizers advertise, "the faint of heart need not
apply." But you will have a great time.

Racing Down Peru's Amazon River

VIDEO: Get Inspired for Peru's 2010
Amazon Raft Race
A River Rafting Adventure

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To get to the Pilpintuwasi Buttery Farm, go to

Bellavista (three soles, 20 minutes from Iquitos
center by motocar) and take a boat from there to

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Wildlife

cross the Nanay River. Visit their website, or

call them at 96-593-2999.

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Visit a butterfly farm

Stroll through stone paths to a
tranquil retreat that will charm
you with its hundreds of colorful butteries uttering all
around. The Pilpintuwasi
Buttery Farm is the only
buttery farm in Peru and its
gardens have been designed
to contain all the fruits, owers, and leaves that the caterpillars and butteries need for
survival. You can observe the
exotic butteries feeding and
ying in their natural habitat, a
wonderful tropical environment of barely tamed jungle.
As you wander past its exotic
and varied gardens you will
see an array of owers:
blooming orchids, ginger,

56

heliconias, among others.

And there are many more
remarkable creatures to be
found at the Buttery Farm,
which also serves as an
Amazon animal orphanage,
botanical garden and educational center. Visitors will enjoy
the unique pleasure of seeing
new butteries emerge from
their cocoons and mingling
with the varied vibrant birds,
tamest of monkeys, agoutis
and tapirs. There are few
places you can go to learn
more about the rainforest
eco-system than Pilipintuwasi
Buttery Farm, they will
ensure your experience is
unforgettable.

Our Amazon Tour to the

Buttery Farm in Peru

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ceremonies out of Iquitos: Blue Morpho (Av.

Guardia Civil 515, 65-26-3454) and Refugio
Altiplano (Calle Pevas 220,65-22-2001).

People who know ayahuasca stress that a good

curandero is the most important part of a good
experience. Here are two companies that lead

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take a trip with ayahuasca

Ayahuasca is a vine, the psychedelic

concoction and the exotic ritual capable of
healing all types of ailments and addictions. In
the Amazon Basin the ayahuasca brew is
considered a potent medicine whose recipe
has been passed down for hundreds of generations.

Shamans, called curanderos, spend

years as apprentices to elders, learning how to blend the Ayahuasca vine
extract with different plant ingredients,
the healing properties of each one of
these plants, and the ways they interact with the spiritual world. Smoke,
icaros (songs to spirits), whistling,
wailing, prayers and ghting off
demons are all to be expected in the
Ayahuasca experience.
For some, the experience can serve as
a way of discovering themselves and
resolving lingering issues. Others seek
a portal to an enlightening connection
with other dimensions. And there's

57

always the possibility the experience will be

three hours of vomiting. But if you
enter the ayahuasca experience for the
right reasons, you may leave with a new
outlook on your life or kick that pack-aday habit.

Taking Ayahuasca in the Amazon

The Ayahuasca Ceremony: A Primer

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Amazon Explorama is a good option for lodging

and tour services. Mad Mick's Bunkhouse is on
Calle Putumayo 163. For food, try gourmet local
dishes at Fitzcarraldo (Napo 100), Parrilladas El

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City Sights

Zorrito (Fanning #355 in the Belen area), ice

cream at La Muyuna (Jr. Prspero #621). For a
weird expat-jungle experience, try the Yellow
Rose of Texas, a steakhouse with TX themes.

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Iquitos, Jungle City

Iquitos is the rustic jungle
capital of the Loreto region
known for its motocars,
ceramic-tiled mansions and
booming tourism. It is also the
world's largest city that is
unreachable by road. Often
the majority of its visitors are
tourists only stopping by on
their way to rainforest adventures or far off river trips along
the Amazon. However, the city
of Iquitos has a lot to offer for
culture, entertainment and
nightlife.
Once known for its abundant
wealth and disheartening

58

poverty stemming from the

rise and collapse of the rubber
boom, today Iquitos is a prosperous and modern town.
From dance halls and restaurants to street theater and
craft markets, the people of
Loreto know how to create a
warm and gracious atmosphere.
Free from the luxuries of the
Western world, and true to the
simplicity that characterizes it,
Iquitos continues to draw
people from all over the world
who are eager to bask in its
laid back charm.

Living in Iquitos
A weekend trip to Iquitos

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Tour agencies include the nonprot Inka Natura

Travel, Tambopata Expeditions, Manu Expeditions and Expediciones Vilca.

return

Wildlife at TAmbopatA and Manu

In less than half an hour ight
from Cuzco,
you can nd yourself
immersed in either one of
Peru's most extraordinary
natural reserves (Tambopata),
or the largest national park in
the country (Manu). The
exceptional biodiversity in
Tambopata's ecosystem
include 91 species of mammals, 570 types of birds
(including the one of the largest macaw clay licks in the
country), 1,200 kinds of but-

teries and 94 varieties of sh.

Manu Park's biodiversity
one of greatest of any park in
the world is also impressive. It is home to over 1,000
species of birds. There are
also more than 15,000 species
of plants to be found. And just
one single hectare can contain
up to 250 varieties of trees.
Simply by visiting Tambopata
and Manu you can catch a
glimpse of a signicant portion
of the earth's wildlife.

59

Tambopata Candamo: Saving the

Planet

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How to volunteer in Peru: Rebuilding Pisco

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Volunteering

Perus Project Humanity: Un Techo Para Mi

Pas

RETURN

Volunteer in Peru
ty to be transplanted into the lives and
cultures of locals: tasting the same daily
delicacies, commuting on the same
rickety pick-up trucks, or trekking the
same secret paths through the rainforest. Volunteers in Peru tend to leave
the country with a more memorable and
deeper understanding and appreciation
for its people, natural beauty, culture,
and development projects.
Here is a list of worthy projects to volunteer with in Peru.

Volunteering in Peru is an excellent opportunity

to combine humanitarian efforts, support
innovative social organizations, and see the
Pisco Sin Fronteras: Devoted to the
country and its culture from within. Volunteers
reconstruction of Pisco 2007
nd it easier to assimilate into the culture, learn
earthquake.
Spanish, and to get an insider's perspective. These experiences provide the opportuni-

60

ANIA: Integrating environmental awareness

with child development.
Ciudad Saludable: Dedicated to improving
quality of life of the poorest through efcient
solid waste management.
Centro Ann Sullivan: Serve people with
different abilities.
Yachay Wasi Institute: Works with
teachers and schools to improve education.
Angeles D-1: Dance and performing arts
with children and adolescents.
Villa La Paz Foundation: Center for destitute and sick children.
Urpichallay: Works closely with local
Andean communities.
Yanapanakusun: Rehabilitation center for
girls in Cuzco.
Manos Unidas: Works with people with
developmental disabilities, down syndrome,
autism and cerebral palsy in Cuzco.

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While in Cajamarca, visit Cumbe Mayo, a PreIncan aquaduct stretching ve miles and surrounded by nataural rock formations. (12 miles

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Outdoors

southwest of the city.) A nearby hotel option is

Laguna Seca.

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Bathe in the Baos del Inca

Thermal Baths have always
played an important role in
Inca history. Water was a deity
in the Inca Empire, and the
Incas relied on its divine healing and cleansing qualities.
They had several rituals where
water was used to purify the
soul and many of these were
performed before sacred
ceremonies. Thermal
bathing was one of these
rituals. There are more than
500 thermal baths scattered
throughout several regions of
Peru, including, Ancash,
Huanuco, Pasco, Junin, Lima,
Ica, Huancavelica, Ayacucho
and Apurimac.

61

The most famous of these are

the Baos del Inca, natural hot
springs located just three
miles east of the city of Cajamarca.
Inca ruler Atahualpa was a
believer in the medicinal
powers of these thermal
baths, and had his own individual royal bath at this location. In fact, legend has it that
he was bathing here when the
Spanish Conquistadores
arrived. It's no wonder these
warm, mineral-rich waters
were a favorite of ancient Inca
rulers. They are without a
doubt an ideal way to relax
and have fun.

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Taking an early colectivo from the city of

Chachapoyas to arrive at Kuelap early in the
morning is the best way for an authentic experi-

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Prehispanic

ence, says the NYT Frugal Traveler (see Read

More). For a agency, check out Northern Circuit
of Peru.

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Kuelap
Kuelap is a fortied citadel
that stands on the peak of a
mountain some 9,843 feet
above sea level, overlooking
the Utcubamba Valley in
northern Peru. It was built by
the Chachapoyan culture
also known as the Cloud
Forest people whose realm
ranged from the highlands to
the jungles. The structure of
this colossal stronghold is
almost 2,000 feet in length
and its walls tower more than
62 feet.
Kuelap encompassed more
than 400 buildings, the majority of them featuring embel-

62

lished walls and cornices. It is

estimated that some one
hundred thousand limestone
blocks, each weighing more
than 200 pounds, were used
to erect the fortress. It initially
caught the attention of scholars by the enormous extension
of its city walls and the quality
of its stonework.
Interestingly enough, though,
neither the Incas nor the
Spaniards ever learned of its
existence.
This magnicent fortress is
among the most outstanding
archaeological remains in all of
Peru, and well worth a visit.

The Frugal Traveler visits Kuelap

The Ancient Fortress of Mysteries
Kuelap: A Mystery in the Clouds

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The farm is located on Jiron Chanchamayo

1355, Fonavi 1, Cajamarca. Landline:
76-36-5631, cell phone; 97-668-2205, website.

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Outdoors

Experiential tourism is also big in Cuzco. Check

out Apus Peru, Inka Pusayuc out of Yucay in the
Sacred Valley (84-20-1320) and Casa Ecolgica
Cusco.

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Work on porcon farm

Porcon Farm, some 18 miles
from Cajamarca, is a tiny
village of vicua-populated
pine groves and rich blue
skies. Visitors can participate
in a one-of-a-kind agro-tourist
program. You can take part in
the farm's daily chores and
have the unique experience of
living alongside members of
this community. You will
experience the daily chores of
an Andean farmer: planting,
milking cows, shearing sheep,
and enjoying some local rituals
and festivals. You might take

turns helping the women

plant potatoes, assist a local
carpenter in building furniture
from eucalyptus, lend a hand
with the numerous owers and
fruits at the green house or
chip in at the dairy processing
plant. Visitors can also look at
the areas miniature zoo, and
adventure lovers can set off
on hikes in a quest for Inca
ruins and waterfalls. The
people of Porcon live up to
their commitment to not tell
their history, but instead make
it come alive.

63

A visit to Porcon, the Model Farm

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Prehispanic

Cicloturismo Peru leads bicycle tours to

Chankillo. For nearby lodging, there are Las
Poncianas and El Dorado Inn, both in Casma.

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Chankillo observatory
Chankillo, located almost 250
miles from Lima, is the oldest
solar observatory in the western world. Its 2,000-year-old
towers were built by an
unidentied pre-Inca culture to
mark the sun's position
throughout the year.
Chankillo's existence indicates that ancient Peruvians
had considerable knowledge
of astronomy. It is also one of
the oldest examples of landscape time-keeping in the
Americas. The Inca civilization
who worshiped the sun and

64

sought its guidance for its

political agendas later used
this archaeological site to
keep track of the positions of
the horizon where the sun rose
and set. It is believed that
thousands of spectators may
have gathered here to observe
major solar events. In fact,
artifacts located on site suggest Chankillo may have
played a signicant ceremonial function which included
recurring feasts. Chankillo
provides us with yet one more
proof that Peru is one of the
marvels of the ancient world.

Chankillo: The Worlds Oldest Astronomical Observatory

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Arequipa

Stay a night at Cabanaconde or Maca, pueblos

that maintain tradition ways of life despite the
steady ow of tourists. For trekking, Colca Trek

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Outdoors

Adventure Travel has ofces in Arequipa city.

Two luxury options for lodging in the canyon are
Las Casitas del Colca and Eco Inn.

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Colca Canyon
The Colca Canyon in Arequipa
has stunning scenery and is
one of the best locations to
observe Peruvian condors in
their natural habitat. Along the
canyon's rim, travelers can
spot the incredible condors at
the Cruz del Condor lookout
(shown here). At 4,000 feet
above the Colca River, condors soar and scavenge (the
wing span on these birds are up
to ten feet, making them one of
the world's largest).
Although the condor population in South America has

dwindled in the last century, in

the Colca Canyon visitors can
see them at a very close range
as they soar up past the
fading mist that usually hangs
over the valley in the early
morning.
Treks into the canyon and
visits to quaint villages are
best for longer stays. Colca
Canyon is a must-see for
travels into Peru's Arequipa
region.

65

A Family Weekend Trip to Colca Canyon

Colca: A Photographers Dream

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Gocta Waterfall
Gocta Falls, located in the remote highland
jungle of the Amazonas province, is one of the
tallest waterfalls in the world.
When rst discovered, it was believed to be
the third largest in the world. But since then,
its true ranking has been cause of debate,
since Gocta is two-tiered: its has two drops,
754 feet on top and a second 1,771-foot drop
to the bottom. (Indeed, waterfall controversy
exists.)
The outside world was let known of Gocta's
existence as recent as 2005, from a German
scientist working in the area. Locals, of
course, always knew known about Gocta, but
they avoided the falls, some believing a beau-

66

Hiking to Gocta Falls

Reections on Ten Years of Travel: Tips
from Rafo Len

tiful siren lived underneath, luring men into the

stream.
To reach this waterfall you will trek through
virgin jungle of orchids and giant ferns. Along
the way you might see tucans, hummingbirds
and monkeys. This one of Peru's
newest discoveries of a natural wonder be
one of the few privileged to visit Gocta up
close.

Get there
From Chachapoyas, use Chinata Tours (on
Pedro Ruiz in front of Banco del a Nacion,
978-041-600). Download a map of the
Gocta area, and a general map of touristic sites in Amazonas region (both in
Spanish). Stay at Gocta Lodge, a simple
and comfortable place right near the falls
(the photo below is a vista from the lodge).
Turismo Explorer offers tours of Gocta.
Vilaya Tours offers more personalized
services, with a British owner.

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La Granga Azul is where Pollo a la Braza was

created in the 1950s. Its located at Km 11.5
along the Carretera Central, and is best for fami-

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Food

lies. Top chains in Lima are Norkys, Rokys,

Pardos and Las Canastas. But pollo a la brasa
joints are all over Peru.

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Eat pollo a la brasa

Peruvian rotisserie chicken is a major league

player in Peruvian gastronomy, and it has
serious clout in Lima culture. This local favorite
consists of a marinated chicken spiced with
traditional Peruvian rotisserie seasoning and

lime juice, which has been roasted in

large coal ovens designed exclusively
for its preparation.
Pollo a la Brasa is traditionally served
with large fries, a side of salad dressed
with creamy vinaigrette, and a set of
sauces that always includes mayonnaise and aj amarillo sauce. It is a
favorite at family dinners where everyone digs in to savor this appetizing
treat without the need or want of
utensils. Trust the locals: it is best
eaten with your ngers! Pollo a la
brasa is so loved and consumed by
Peruvians that in 2004 the National

67

Institute of Culture gave it the status of

National Heritage icon, and in 2010 it was
included on the list of consumer goods to
calculate ination rates.

A Trip to Three Pollo a la Brasa Chains in Lima

Interview: Franchising Peru's Pollo a la Brasa
Where to Eat? Peruvians Prefer Pollo a la Brasa

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Cruz del Sur is your best bet to travel by bus to

the largest highland cities from Lima.

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Andean

Begin your journey in cities like Huancavelica,

Ayacucho, Huancayo or Jauja.

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Visit the Central Highlands

The Central Highlands are the heartland of

Andean Peru. There is no better way to truly
get an insight into local life than here. Life in
this bare and remote region is beautiful in its
simplicity. Here everything revolves around the

land, from the herds of llamas and

cattle that determine the pace of
motorized trafc to the spectacular
festivals paying homage to the mother
earth. Festivals, ceremonies and traditions are abundant, bumpy bus trips
make an ideal setting for talking with
the locals, and local markets are an
eye feast of handicrafts. You can stroll
past street markets and colonial churches in Huancavelica, see the central
highlands by train on your way to
Huancayo, celebrate Semana Santa in
Ayacucho or visit remote pre-Inca
ruins near Tantamayo. And the best

68

part of it all is the almost complete absence

of tourists. This is Peru at its most Peruvian;
a truly authentic experience.

Visit the Chilly But Welcoming

Highlands of Huancavelica
A Ride on Horseback Across the Andes

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Folklore Festival in Puno

Also known as the folklore
capital of the Americas, Puno
is home to one of the most
dynamic folk religious festivals
in Latin America: the Virgen de
la Candelaria. The festival falls
sometime during the rst two
weeks in February. On its main
day, churches and residences
are decorated in bright cloth
banners and streets are paved
with ower beds paying
homage to their saintly
matron. Then a statue of the
Virgin Mary is led through the
city in a vibrant procession of
clergy and pagans, carefully
respecting the hierarchy, as
spectators attempt to shower

69

Mary in ower petals from

below and the balconies
above all along the route.
Trailing close behind is a large
parade of more than 200
groups of musicians and
dance troupes dressed in the
most fantastic customs, wearing outlandish masks and
playing zampoa pan-pipes.
The most traditional of the
dances performed is La Diablada, in which dancers try to
dramatize the struggle
between good and evil.
It is an spectacular explosion
of colors, music, costumes
and fun-embracing tradition.

Virgen de la Candelaria Festival 2010

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The Ventanillas of Cajamarca

About the city of Cajamarca

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ventanillas of combayo
The Ventanillas de Combayo,
three hours from the city of
Cajamarca, are several hundred funerary niches that were
cut some 30 meters high into
the rock face of a cliff. More
than 4,000 years old, it is one
of the oldest cemeteries found
in Peru. From the outside, it
looks like a hill with a bunch of
square and rectangular windows carved into a hillside.
but these niches actually lead
into an internal network of
dark galleries, some of which
go 32 feet deep. The tombs
are only one to two feet tall;
only head and limb bones

70

were placed inside. If you

want to peek into tombs you
have to climb a precarious
path with a series of foot
holds. But the top provides an
excellent view of the valley.
And if you look closely enough
at the ground you might just
nd tiny scattered fragments
of ancient pots and utensils.
The area around Cajamarca
has many ventanillas, in fact.
A few minutes outside the city
lies Ventanillas de Otuzco,
which some describe as a
tourist trap. If you are into
out-of-the-way sites, then give
Combayo a try.

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Ayacucho lls up during Easter: Make sure to

book lodging in advance. La Casona is a higher
end option. Tres Mascaras is a charming

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Festivals

budget hotel three blocks from the main plaza.

Dont miss out on popular pollo a la brasa joint
Walla Sua (Jr. Gracilazo de la Vega 240).

Easter in ayacucho

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Easter is one of the most captivating celebrations of Peru's central highlands. It is a beautiful Catholic festivity of pious expressions of
faith, breath-taking ower carpet exhibitions,
reworks displays, bull chases, and reenactments of various scenes from the Passion
of Christ.
During this week, Semana Santa, all of Ayacucho participates in a series of somber religious
processions. One of the most engaging
displays is a reenactment of Christ arriving
in Nazareth, where a statue of him is para-

71

ded on a white mule, followed by crowds of

people carrying golden palm leaves.
Perhaps the most reverent of ceremonies is a
candlelit procession of statues of Jesus and
the Virgin Mary during which all the lights in
the city are turned off (shown here). Without a
doubt Ayacucho makes of Easter one of
Perus most devout religious festivals.

Set in Ayacucho during Semana Santa, the

award-winning political thriller Red April is
a must-read for anyone wanting to delve
deeper into Ayacucho's recent history.
Holy Week in Ayacucho

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Two agencies specialize in llama trekking:

Q'ente, based out of Cusco, and Andean Treks,
with main ofces in Massachusetts, U.S.A.

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Trek with Llamas

Take part in a unique and
memorable trek and experienced the beauty and tranquility of Peru's highlands while in
the company of unique companions: llamas. Throughout
your journey llamas will help
carry your necessary gear as
you experience a day in the
life of a highland resident. After
locals help you prepare the
llamas before you head out on
your journey, you and your
quiet comrade will visit provincial communities, explore

pre-Incan ruins and participate

in local community activities.
As you head on your way
toward ancient archaeological
sites you might meet up with
local story tellers or be invited
to participate in nearby recitals
and feasts. You might also see
amencos eating shrimp by a
nearby river bank or be
enchanted by the variety of
ora to be seen in the area. It
will be an experience you (and
the llama too...maybe?) will
never forget.

72

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Hospedaje Quenanpancha offers lodging,

straw boat rides and meals on Uros. There are
many tour agencies that do day tours of the
three islands. But one option is to go on a local

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Andean

boat: Show up around 7 a.m. at the port in Puno.

For a luxury stay, Casa Andina has a hotel on
Suasi Island, a tiny, uninhabited private island.

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Stay a night on LAke titicaca

Lake Titicaca, at 12,500 feet
above sea level is the highest
navigable lake in the world
and home to mystical islands.
Staying on an island for at
least one night is a must for
travelers.
The Uros Islands, shown here,
also known as the Floating
Islands, are human-made
islands made of locally grown
totora reeds that are woven
together so thickly they can
support multiple families. In
fact, reeds are used by
the locals to build everything
from houses, boats and, of
course, the islands themselves.

73

Taquile is a tiny island with a

number of Inca ruins and the
most colorful local dress:
women wear bright layered
dresses. (Incredibly, each
island has distinct clothing.)
Locals put on folkloric dance
presentations almost daily for
boatloads of tourists. You can
also learn about the famed
embroidering in a tiny textile
museum.
Amantani Island is the least
touristy of the three. You can
show up and stay at a family's
house for only a few dollars a
night. With no electricity, the
island plunges into darkness.

Seeing Peru's Amantani Island Through

The Eyes of a 13-Year-Old
Lake Titicaca: A Personal Experience

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See our recipe.

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Papa a la Huancaina
Papa a la Huancaina is a
classic Peruvian dish that has
its roots in the Andean city of
Huancayo.
This local creole icon consists
of sliced boiled potatos laid on
top a bed of crisp lettuce
leaves, subsequently covered
in a rich, spicy cream made
of Andean cheese and Peruvian yellow pepper and
crowned with a few slices of
black olives and boiled eggs.
Papa a la Huancaina is among
the most common starters and
side dishes in Peruvian
cuisine.

Family banquets and social

dinner events are often initiated with a plate of this local
favorite. It is also common to
see a small portion of Papa a
la Huancaina served alongside
a helping of Arroz con Pollo or
tallarines verdes.

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Part of its appeal is that, in

varying degrees of spiciness,
Papa a la Huancaina suits
almost any traditional creole
dish well. Its what every chef
dreams the ideal appetizer
should be: delicious and
versatile.

Potatoes in Peru: Can highland farmers

benet from Perus restaurant boom?

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Highlands

Best to visit from May to October. From Cerro de

Pasco, head south to Junn. At approximately 25
km, follow road heading west which takes you to

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Outdoors

Huayllay. Download map. You can camp in the

forest for only 10 soles a night.

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THe Rock Forest of Huayllay

across a vast range of exotic
ora and fauna. Look out for
vicuas, vizcachas, deer and
hawks as you stroll about.
Within the landscape you will
also nd a glimmering thermal
bath famous for its curative
properties. Visit this littletraveled site and see some of
the most unique natural
formations on earth, up in the
raried air of Perus highlands.

The Rock Forest of Huayllay is

located in the Pasco region of
Peru some 12,500 feet above
sea level. This geological site
is like an outdoor museum of
erosion: It has crazy rock
formations which have been
naturally contoured by wind,
water and shifting glaciers.
Within the natural creations
you can spot several human
and animal gures, as well as
various rugged archways.
Among these organic sculptures you will also come

75

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Lima

The Bioferia is located behind Parque Reducto

approaching Via Expresa and Block 9 of Av.
Benavides.

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Food

A pioneer in Organic food in Lima is El AlmaZen, located at Recavarren 298, Miraores.

243-0474.

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Limas Organic Street Market

The Parque Reducto Bioferia
in Miraores is a block-long
organic market that celebrates
the rich biodiversity of Peru.
Every Saturday morning,
locals and foreigners ock to
the bioferia to stock up on groceries, snack their way down
the stalls, tasting samples
from a variety of ecologically
friendly foods, and enjoy crafts
shows. Most of the stands
belong to local organic farmers, NGOs, and environmental
and educational organizations
that have created a familyfriendly haven of ready-to-eat
treats, hands-on educational
activities for children, cook-

76

ing demonstrations and informative presentations on ecology. This organic fair offers a
unique opportunity to sample
organic breads, cheeses,
jams, produce, coffees, juices,
dairy and delicious baked
goods. Here you will nd
everything from goat milk
products and hand-crafted
gifts, to coca our. The wide
selection of savory goodies
and displays is enough to
keep you pleasantly occupied
all morning. There is no
healthier (and mouthwatering)
way to spend a Saturday
morning in Miraores.

See a VIDEO of the Bioferia

Read about Punto Organico, Limas
new organic food store

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Lima

Make it a day trip: Pachacamac is a short drive

from Lima. Along the way, stop at the Morro
Solar and get a great view of the city of Lima.
Then pass by the leaping monk of Chorrillos

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Prehispanic

(read more here). Pachacamac offers tour

guides in English, which is worth it. Its best to
have a car during the tour: the site is huge and
would take a few hours at least on foot.

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Pachacamac
The pre-Columbian ruins of
Pachacamac is Limas most
signicant archaeological site.
It was also inhabited by three
successive coastal cultures:
The Lima Culture, the Wari,
then the Inca.
For the Inca in the 15th century, Pachacamac was a
sacred city and used to receive
pilgrims who brought offerings
to their oracle and creator-god
Pachacamac. They believed
he was able to read the future
and was responsible for earthquakes and all affairs of the
land.

Plazas, shrines, avenues, a

cemetery, administrative
buildings, palaces and pyramidal temples comprise this
citadel. Within the site there is
also a small museum exhibiting pre-Columbian tools,
ceramics, textiles and a
carved wooden replica of
Pachacamac the god.
The views from the Sun
temple are spectacular, straddled
between the Pacic Ocean
and green valleys of Lurin.
This is a must-see for those
with a few days in Lima.

77

Pachacamac, Limas major archaeological site

Food, love and adventure 30 minutes
from Lima

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Lima

Plaza de Acho is located on Jiron Hualgayoc

332, in the district of Rimac, only several blocks
from the Government Palace in downtown Lima.

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Festivals

Nearby, visit the Alameda de los Descalzos, a

tree-lined avenue famous for its colonial architecture. Read about walking tours in Rimac.

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Bull Fights at Acho

Plaza de Acho, built in 1766, is the most
renowned bullghting ring in Peru and one of
the oldest in the Americas. Every October and
November, the Feria of the Seor de los Milagros brings in some of the world's most
lauded talents in the bullghting circuit and
crowds jam this wooden and adobe arena to
see which matador subdues the most impressive bull. The toreros execute their series of
cape passes to thunderous audiences as they
compete for the glory of the best bull
ghter of the year award.

78

Each year the Escapulario de Oro prize goes

to the most skillful matador and the Escapulario de Plata award to the most impressive bull.
If you are more interested in history (and not
as much the live bloody sport), there is the
Museo Taurino nearby. The museum exhibits
bullghter suits and trophies as well as paintings and illustrations of bullghting scenes by
various artists, including Picasso.

Peruvian bullghting pits tradition

against new sensibilities

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Lima

Enter the market at Ricardo Palma and Petit

Thouars, by Ovalo Miraores, the trafc circle at
the heart of Miraores. Nearby is La Tiendecita

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Shopping

Blanca, a classic Lima cafe-restaurant. Another

option is Haiti, a traditional cafe and sidewalk
spot great for people-watching.

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Shop for Souvenirs in Miraflores

The Mercado Indio on Petit
Thouars Avenue in Miraores
is a cozy, open-air market
lined with colorful stands and
shops offering a wide selection of Peruvian arts and
crafts. This is a great spot for
strolling and last-minute gift
shopping. Here you will nd
textiles, ceramics, leather
goods, woolen clothing, paintings, alpaca garments, jewelry
and a thousand more knickknacks that could take a book
to list. There is also an interesting variety of antique,

traditional and contemporary

works. One moment you could
be deciding between miniature
marble churches, and a few
steps later purchasing t-shirts
incorporating pre-Inca motifs
or humorous indigenous
Peruvian characters. The
owners are pleasant and
many have learned a
thing or two from their regular
tourist clientele, and will
barter in English, German,
French and other languages.

79

Shopping in the markets of Lima

The Shaman Markets of Gamarra

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Lima

Presbitero Maestro Cemetery is located in the

district of Barrios Altos, Jr. Ancash, block 17. It
is not the safest of areas, so be sure to go with a

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City Sights

reliable guide or local friend.

Turibus offers bus tours to the cemetery at
night.

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Limas cemetery
The Presbitero Matias Maestro
Cemetery is one of the most
intriguing legacies of the city
of Lima. Perhaps the most
stately cemetery in Peru, it
was inaugurated in 1808 and
houses more than 700 mausoleums, several of these
inspired by the neoclassical
architecture of the late 19th
century. Most admired for the
intricate designs of its mausoleums, headstones and its
marble statuary, its beautiful
grounds are the resting place
of several eminent political,
military and literary gures
along with other notable
residents hailing from some of
the wealthiest families of Lima.

80

Among the more notable

names, you will nd Peruvian
naval hero Miguel Grau, military martyr Francisco Bolognesi, and the abolitionist and
former president Ramon
Castilla. Perhaps the most
impressive mausoleum within
the complex is the one built in
honor of the heroes of the
Pacic War with Chile. The
spectacular craftsmanship in
the marble crypts, stained
glass windows and bronze
plaques are unlike any found
in the region. Presbitero
Matias Maestro is home to
some of the most beautiful
masonry work ever crafted in
old Lima.

A historical tour of Peru's powerful:

Barrios Altos cemetery

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Lima

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City Sights

A Day Walk Through Barranco: Part One, Part Two

Check the event calendar at LivinginPeru.com for
upcoming live music in Barranco

Bohemian in Barranco
Barranco is the small seaside district with the
best Bohemian, barrio vibe in Lima.

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During the day, it is a great place to enjoy a

ceviche with friends or stroll down to a Pacific
Ocean overlook. At night, the area
around the municipal plaza buzzes with an
eclectic crowd, while the recently gentried
walkway under the Puente de Suspiros boasts
a couple of trendy bars and a top restaurant.
Barranco also has some of the top art galleries
and house parties.
Here are some recommendations on where to
enjoy Barranco.

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Ayahuasca is a new bar located in a gorgeous mansion on Av. San Martin. It

serves great pisco cocktails and tasty
apps, and was recently included as one of
the worlds Top 35 Bars by Cond Nast.
For ceviche and seafood, try Canta Rana,
or its little brother, Canta Ranita, located in
the back of a market on Jiron Union.
Chala, down by the Puente de Suspiros, is
one of Limas top fusion restaurants. Also
check out the bars Picas and Santos,
which always lls up on weekends.
Juanitos is the best bar for laid back
conversation, and a great place to meet
locals, artists and travelers (see photo).
Barranco also has a couple of Limas best
peas, Rompe y Raja and Carajo! Other
places with live music are La Noche,
Sargento Pimienta, and El Dragon.

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Lima

Museo Larco is located in the quaint neighborhood of Pueblo Libre, Av. Bolivar 1515,
461-1312. Nearby places for good eats include

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City Sights

the classic bar El Bolivariano on Pasaje Santa

Rosa 291, and Gran Parrillada Timbo for grilled
meats, on Av. Bolivar 944.

RETURN

Erotic art at Museo Larco

The Museo Arqueolgico Rafael Larco Herrera,

more commonly known as the Museo Larco, is
one of the most visited museums in Peru.
Housed in an 18th century vice-royal mansion
built over the ruins of a 7th century preColumbian temple, this museum offers a
varied collection of ceramics, textiles and

precious metal artifacts spanning three

millennia.
Its array of ceramic pieces crafted by
ancient Peruvian cultures include
several thousand pots in the shapes of
animals, plants and people. Its erotic
collection is the most famous, not
surprisingly. You'll see clay gures in
positions that might make you blush.
And there's plenty of over-sized genitalia.
A distinct characteristic of this
museum is that its visitors are allowed
access to the museum's store rooms
and are able to see the more than
45,000 archaeological artifacts not on
display on its main halls.

82

If you only have a few days in Lima, make

sure to set aside time for the Larco
Museum.

A Recent Visit to Museo Larco

PHOTOS: Erotic Ceramic Art from Peru

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Lima

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City Sights

Three Great Bars for Pisco Sours in Lima

Classic Lima Bars

Lima has several must-visit bars to rest your
elbow and raise a glass of pisco.

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El Bar Maury
An intimate, dimly-lit space that claims to be
the home of the pisco sour. With black-andwhite pictures and vintage posters decorating
its walls, the bar transports you back to the
Lima of old. Jiron Ucayali 201, with Jiron
Carabaya, right off Plaza San Martin, website.
Hotel Bolivar
Or was the pisco sour rst made here? Regardless, better excuse to visit both places. Hotel
Bolivar is right on Plaza San Martin; its bar lls
with pisco sour drinkers on weekends.

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See recipes for the four original pisco cocktails: Pisco Sour, Chilcano, Pisco Punch
and Capitan.

Antigua Taberna Queirolo

A vibrant local bar in a quaint neighborhood of
Pueblo Libre. Try its delicious sandwiches
and a pisco sour. On Avenida San Martin with
Vivanco, website.
Juanitos
The quintessential Barranco neighborhood bar
right on the municipal plaza. A great space
where regulars, artists, tourists and wellknown artists and public personalities go for
sandwiches, chilcanos and great conversation.
Bar Cordano
Open since 1905, Cordano has been owned
by its wait staff since the 70s. Located close to
the government palace, enter on Jiron Ancash
202 or from Jiron Carabaya. See this article.

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The Coast

A small stand owned by La Ta Grima attracts

lines of anticucho-lovers every night: Block 11 of
Av. Enrique Palacios, Miraores.

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Food

Tio Mario is a good option in Barranco, on the

Puente de Suspiros. Try the award-winning
anticuchos at Glotons, with sidewalk seating on
Comandante Espinar 529, Miraores.

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Tasty Beef Hearts

Anticuchos are an extremely popular and
inexpensive Peruvian creole dish.
This signature treat consists of small pieces of
charcoal-grilled beef heart threaded on to
wooden skewers. Traditionally, they are also
accompanied by a chunk of corn cob, a
couple of slices of baked potato and a small
side of grilled tripe, or "pancita."
Anticuchos can be easily purchased on street
carts and improvised food stands everywhere
in Lima. Passer-bys are typically lured by the
strong, savory aroma. It is not rare to see

84

ocks gathering around the smiling, smoke

cloud-wielding, often matronly anticucho
sellers. From stadiums to college campuses,
from parks to the windows of everyday
houses: After sunset, Lima belongs to anticucho vendors.
Now you can savor anticuchos even in the
nest of Peruvian restaurants. The anticucho
is now a part of everyday cuisine in all regions
and social classes of Peru.

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The Coast

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City Sights

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Afro-Peruvian Culture
Peru's Afro-Peruvian community
is small but has a large inuence on culture and music in
Lima and the southern coast.
Musica criolla and food like tacu
tacu and anticuchos are some
of the strong contributions this
small, tight-knit community
has made to Peruvian society.
The center of the AfroPeruvian culture is found in
the town of El Carmen, outside of the city of Chincha. It
was in this region that freed
slaves continued to work on
haciendas, mostly picking
cotton. It's best to visit
Chincha and El Carmen during

the time of a festival. The

Festival del Virgen del Carmen,
in late December, and
Verano Negro in late February
are both good times to visit.
In Lima, try to catch a performance by the sons of Peru
Negro, a musical family that
does a wonderful job keeping
the music alive and vibrant.

85

Chincha is at Km 196 of the

Panamericana Sur highway.
By bus, travel with Cruz del
Sur, or Soyuz (the cheaper
option). Hostal El Condado is
a lodging option at Km 195 of
the highway, (56) 26-1424.

Verano Negro in El Carmen

Discovering Chincha: Afro-Peruvian Culture
and Vineyards
Peru Negro: The Best Afro-Peruvian Concert

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The Coast

On the Panamericana Norte, turn right at Km 184

and youll pass through the Supe valley to Caral.
Download a map. Options for lodging include

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Prehispanic

beachside bungalows at Albufera Medio

Mundo, and La Casa de Isidora in Puerto Supe.
Also nearby is Eco Truly Park, an artistic community with bizarre fairyland buildings.

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Caral, Mother Civilization

In the Supe River valley in
Peru's coast rests the 5,000year-old pyramids and ceremonial centers of Caral. The site,
discovered in 1996, is proof
that the oldest civilization in
America was developed in
Peru.
Caral also may be the dream
nd for archaeologists and
anthropologists, an elusive
"mother city." Archaeologists
have long looked for evidence
of the rst city building by
humans, and Caral may t the
bill. Surprising conclusions also
came up: The city appears
to have been born from the tranquil necessity of trade. While previous consensus postulated that

86

all cities were built because of

warfare, Caral shows the
possibility of a peaceful beginning to South America's civilization.
Caral is only three hours north
of Lima. The site consists of a
central area with large buildings, which include an amphitheatre temple, residential
buildings, pyramids and monoliths.
This ancient Peruvian settlement is a goldmine of information about the origins of
Andean civilizations. While not
the most fantastic archeaological structure in Peru, its signicance is sure to awe you.

A Bus Trip to Caral

Caral: The Oldest Citadel in the Americas

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Food

For an interesting experience try a limeade at a

mercado: They are usually fresher and the portions tend to be more generous.

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Drink Fresh Limeade

Refreshing and deliciously
citric best describes the limeade made with Peruvian key
limes. During your stay on this
tropical side of the globe we
think a cold glass of fresh
lemonade is one of the best
treats you can give yourself.
The key to Peru's tasty limeade are the exceptionally
acidic and very aromatic
Peruvian key limes. Restaurants and mercados often
have this tasty refreshment on

hand to help keep their customers happy, so you'll have

no problem nding a spot to
enjoy a nice serving. But we
recommend limeade made at
a Peruvian household. Maybe
it is the homey hospitality that
makes the difference. All we
can tell you is that a glass of
homemade limeade
somehow just always seems
to taste better.

87

Juicing the Tropical Fruits

of Peru

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The Coast

Around 7 a.m., go to the small town center of

Paracas to buy tickets for the ride to the islands.

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Wildlife

Coming back, enjoy seafood at the relaxing and

newly built beachside walkway.

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See Wildlife at Ballestas Islands

Located near the town of
Paracas, the Ballestas Islands
are home to a marine
wildlife menagerie. Penguins,
sea lions, and thousands of
birds crowd the rock islands,
while dolphins swim around
and amingos occasionally
show up.
Small boats with local guides
ferry visitors close enough to
hear the wolf-pack cries of sea
lions or almost touch
dolphins as they splash
along to the pace of the boats.

(Boats are kept at a distance

from the islands, however, not
to disturb the fragile marine
habitat in this protected
reserve.)
The two-hour tour also stops
by El Candelabro, a giant
lamp-shaped geoglyph carved
into sand hills on Pisco Bay.
The origins of the 130-meter
pattern are still a mystery to
archaeologists, but it is
believed the Nazca people
might have built it for navigation.

88

Paracas, the Perfect Escape for Nature

Lovers
Walking the Desert Reserve of Paracas

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Lima

The Surquillo market is at Block 53 of Paseo de

la Republica, a 10-minute walk from the heart of
Miraores.

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Food

For a more hectic scene, go to the Mercado

Central by Avenida Abancay in downtown Lima.
But hold tight to your wallet.

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Visit a City Mercado

One of the best ways to get a
feeling of the heart and soul of
Peru is to visit a neighborhood
mercado. The Surquillo Market
is a place that just delights the
senses with its wide range of
colors, tastes, scents and
sounds. Its "gastronomic
walkway" is a fun and inexpensive way to try Peruvian
cuisine on weekends. Here
fruit juice stands will mix you
any fruit combination you can

think of.
Small restaurants with set
menus for ve or six soles
offer mouth-watering
scents that lure you to their
tables. The sight of the wild
variety of colors from the fruit
and vegetable stands, the
fragrance from the ower
shops and the fresh sh sending a hint of the ocean will
captivate your senses.

89

VIDEO: A tour through Surquillo Market

VIDEO: Interview with U.S. Food Journalist in the Surquillo Market (in Spanish
and English)

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Lima

The museum, called El Museo de la Nacin, is

located at Av. Javier Prado Este 2465 in San
Borja: 476-9875.

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City Sights

Another top museum for history is the Museo

Nacional de Antropologia, Arqueologa e
Historia del Peru, in Plaza Bolvar, Pueblo Libre.

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the national museum

The National Museum is one
of the most important historical and cultural institutions in
Peru. Within its four stories of
gallery space, the museum
presents an ample collection
of intricate Peruvian ceramics
and textiles. It also houses a
vast number of exhibits tracing the culture and history of
Peru from its earliest inhabitants, millennia before the Inca
Empire, up to the time of the
Spanish colonization. Among
its 2,500 displays are a series
of pieces from the Paracas,
Moche, Wari and Lima
cultures. This museum is also
renowned for its precolonial

90

replicas of the principal

archaeological sites in Peru,
including scale models of its
major ruins. Don't worry if you
aren't uent in Spanish: the
majority of the museum exhibits include English signs.
On the top oor is the brutal
but important photography
exhibit Yuyanapaq, which
chronicles the violence and
terror of Peru's two-decade
long dirty internal war. (The
name means "to remember" in
Quechua, the language of
those most affected by
violence perpetrated by the
Shining Path and Peru's military.)

Viewing the History of Peru at Museo

de la Nacion

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Lima

Hacienda Mamacona is located in Lurin, just

south of Lima. Another option in Lurin is Los
Ficus.

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Festivals

In Lima, see shows at Hacienda Tres Caas. Do

expeditions on Peruvian Paso Horses in Cuzcos
sacred valley with Perol Chico.

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Paso Horses at Mamacona

Hacienda Mamacona is an
elegant country state home
and the premier breeding
center of the Peruvian Paso
horse. Its ample show grounds
are center stage to Peruvian
Paso horse exhibitions with
some of the most acclaimed
horses and riders in Peru. The
year-round events at Mamacona attract Peru's elite along
with acionados from all over
the world. The Paso horse's
smooth gait and elegance
inspires intense pride and
admiration for Peruvians. (The
horses hooves touch the
ground in an evenly-spaced

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1-2-3-4 patter, a trait that

comes from proper breeding
only.) For many, attending
Paso horse shows and riding
Paso horses is the ultimate
expression of coastal Peruvian
tradition.
At Mamacona, each show is
accompanied by coastal
creole music and typical
dishes from a buffet prepared
by top chefs. A visit to Mamacona is to experience the
warmth and charm of Peru in
the tranquil setting of hacienda gardens, and above all,
enjoy the beauty of the Peruvian Paso horse.

Paijan and the Legendary Peruvian

Paso Horse
The Smoothest Saddle Horse in the
World

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Festivals

The competition takes place the last week of

January in the city of Trujillo.

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The Marinera dance contest

The National Marinera Contest
in Trujillo is a celebration of
artistry, beauty and romance.
There is no city where Marinera is more popular than in
Trujillo on Peru's northern
coast. And there is no time
when this region's love for this
dance is more spiritedly manifested than during the contest
days: Restaurants hold
celebratory feasts, local
parades liven up the streets
and festive street decorations
brighten up the atmosphere.
The main events, however, are
the Marinera competitions
held in local stadiums and
colloseums. Here, everyone

92

from amateurs to national

champions take the stage to
twirl their handkerchiefs to the
upbeat blend of rhythms from
the cajon, guitars, horns and
vivacious hand claps from the
audience.
The dance itself is a graceful
and stylized reenactment of
the courtship of young
couples. Competing dancers
successfully bring chivalry to
life with their irtatious and
elegant movements. It is in
celebration of this dance that
contestants from all corners of
Peru gather in Trujillo to give a
loving nod of respect to Peru's
ofcial dance.

Perus Pride and Joy: La Marinera

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Cuzco

Check out the following tour companies for the

Tres cruces to Atayala ride: Andina Travel,
Enigma and Rap Travel. If in the area during
July, stay for the Virgen del Carmen celebration

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Adventure

in Paucartambo. This ve-day festival includes

giant bonres with dancers and acrobats
attempting to impersonate Purgatory, street
parties and and more.

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Bike Tres Cruces to Atayala

On the road, you'll see rural
communities growing
bananas, yucca, maize on
their small farms. There are
monkeys, birds a plenty,
orchids and stunning scenery
to admire from the the bike's
saddle.

You'll start from heights of a

Cuzco cloud forest, on an
exposed campsite where the
sunsets and sunrises are
magnicent. (See photo.) The
early morning clouds sitting on
the rainforest some 2,300
meters below disguise the
thrilling biking descent over
the upcoming two days.

Accommodation along the

way ranges from cheap and
cheerful to upmarket jungle
lodges where more 500 species of birds have been seen
and 11 types of monkeys hang
out.

The ride is from Tres Cruces

to the port of Atayala on the
bank of the Madre de Dios
River.

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A 24-hour Trip from Cuzco to See the

Sunrise at Tres Cruces

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Cuzco

Sitting a 11,000 feet in the Peruvian Andes,

Cuzco is the undisputed archeological capital
of the Americas. Once the political, military
and cultural center of the Inca Empire, it is still
a center of Amerindian culture, a perfect
testament to its pre-Columbian and colonial
history. Every bit the Andean capital, it is
home to vibrant festivals like Inti Raymi,

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Experience cuzco
ancient archeological sites such as Ollantaytambo, and the legendary Inca Trails. Head
northwest to the Sacred Valley and you can
also take a fascinating tour of temples, royal
palaces and sacred centers. To appreciate
the rich colonial history of Cuzco you can
immerse yourself in its Baroque and Renaissance churches and mansions. If it is adventure you seek, Cuzco offers the perfect
setting for mountain-biking, river-rafting and
trekking. And of course, Cuzco is the
gateway to Macchu Picchu.

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City Sights

Visit Saqsayhuaman, an ancient walled

complex near the old city of Cuzco,
which provides a magnicent example
of Inca architecture and stonework. It's
a 30-45 minutes walk from the Plaza de
armas, and also the location of the
annual Inti Raymi Festival. From there,
hike to the Cristo Blanco for a panoramic view of the city. This 25-foot statue
of Jesus stands in the cerro Pukamoqo
and is a short hike from Saqsayhuaman, from where you will spot it right
away.
Stop by Plazaleta San Blas, which has
the San Blas church (famous for its
colonial art collection and a handcarved pulpit), a ceramics museum, the
Religious Art Museum and a vibrant
artisan, bohemian neighborhood of
cobble stoned paved streets, where you
will nd several coffee shops and galleries.
A good hotel option is Nios Hotel,
which supports orphaned children in
Cuzco.
A gourmet restaurant not to miss is
Cicciolina.

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Cuzco

The Fallen Angel is at Plazoleta Nazarenas 221.

Other great bars include Piskuo, right on the
Plaza de Armas, and La Chupiteria at Tecseco-

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City Sights

cha 400 two blocks from the Plaza. And be sure

to try creative pisco cocktails at El Pisquerito.

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Party at Cuzcos FAllen Angel

Fallen Angel is a funky, artsy cocktail bar and
restaurant in Cuzco. It is an experience that
has been descibed as "Cancun, two miles
up." The decor alone makes a visit worthwhile.
Its glassed-in corridors overlook the colonial
patio of a former monastery, while the main
dining room is a series of intimate rooms
adorned with artwork from the Cusquea
School, stone arches, animal print furniture,
disco balls, and tables made from thick sheets
of glass atop porcelain bathtubs lled with
brightly colored live sh. It is a surreal ambian-

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ce. On top of its fun atmosphere, the food and

drinks are also a delicious treat. The bar
makes mixed drinks with exotic fruits; try the
martinis, margaritas and caipirinhas.
Fallen Angel is also considered a local cultural
hot spot. Fallen Angel wants to help each one
of its guests see how wonderful life is and
celebrate the modern side of Cuzco.

Hot Nightlife and Restaurants in Cuzco

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Cuzco

The temple is located at Av. El Sol with Calle

Santo Domingo; entrance is 10 soles. Down the

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City Sights

road, visit Kusicancha, believed to be the ruins

of an Inca palace.

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Koricancha-Santo Domingo
If you ever need a visual aid
to understand the Spanish
conquest of the Inca Empire,
Koricancha and the Convent
of Santo Domingo provide the
perfect illustration. Koricancha
was the most extraordinary
temple crafted in the time of
the Inca Empire. Dedicated to
the worship of their Sun god,
the Incas lined its walls with
gold panels, adorned it with
altars and life-sized statues of
solid gold and used it as the
main astronomical observatory. But when the Spaniards
came, Koricancha was one of
the many Inca temples and
palaces that were plundered.

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Its outstanding stone masonry

was kept as a base for the
construction of a Catholic
institution: the Convent of
Santo Domingo, built in
baroque style in the 17th
century. What the Spanish
brought in priceless art,
main cloisters and sculptures
are of interest. But the
architecture and perfectly
symmetric Inca stone work of
the original temple chambers
are outstanding. There is no
more perfect intersection
between Spanish and Andean
culture than this construction.

The Churches and Temples of Cuzco

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Andina Travel Peru and Qente are two options

for tour operators. At the South American
Explorers Club in Cuzco, clubhouse vounteer

Choquequirao is an ancient
Inca site very similar to Machu
Picchu in signicance, different in architecture and equally
shrouded in mystery. It is
located along the Salkantay
Mountain Range in the La
Convencion province of
Cuzco. This citadel served the
same religious, political and
agricultural functions as its
imperial sister city. Designed
to be in alignment with the sun
and stars, the Choquequirao
ceremonial hill allows for a 360
degree view of the ruins, its
surrounding landscape, and
occasional condors ying
overhead. Its features include
mountain peaks reaching
17,000 feet above and the

Miguel Jove Mamani leads tours.

Choquequirao

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Prehispanic

vast valley of the river Ro

Apurmac below. The site is
made of typical Inca farming
terraces, a temple, administrative buildings, warehouses,
living quarters, aqueducts,
and water springs.
Scholars believe the Spanish
never learned of its existence;
in fact, most buildings are
well-preserved and in the
process of restoration. It was
most likely among the last of
the Incan strongholds to serve
as a refuge after the arrival of
the Spanish Conquistadors.
Like the Inca Emperor who
chose the site of this city,
tourists visit Choquequirao to
have a Machu Picchu experience without the crowds.

The Lost City of Choquequirao

Walking From Choquequirao to Machu
Picchu

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Cuzco

Buy tickets from Cuzco's Festivities Municipal

Enterprise, located on Santa Catalina Ancha
333. Phone: 84-22-6711.

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Festival

Hotel Monasterio is Cuzcos top hotel: If you

cant afford to stay the night, you should enjoy
its beautiful bar or replace.

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The inca sun festival

During the Incan reign of Peru, Inti Raymi was

the paramount Festival of the Sun. This nineday festivity marked the beginning of the new
year with the winter solstice and it was the
Inca's way of thanking their sun god for the
success of their crops. Some of the rituals of
this festivity included fasting, not lighting any

res for days and presenting animal

sacrices to their deity.
Cuzco still celebrates this ancient ritual
every year on June 24. However, it is
now a full-day community-organized
spectacle attended by thousands, that
is decorously reenacted by more than
500 local actors (some would call it
more Disney than Incan). During June
in Cuzco there are also expositions,
festivities, concerts and numerous
other parties. It's a month for parties
and holidays. Everyone is invited to
join in the festivities and every year
thousands of visitors do from
Cuzco, all of Peru and all over the
world.

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Paying Homage to the Sun in Peru

The Incan ritual for Peru's Tourists is
out of Reach for Many Locals

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Highlands

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JM Gutarra goes to houses in Lima to prepare a

Pachamanca. Ask for Jesus or Marta Gutarra:
224-8248, jmgutarra64@yahoo.es.

Pachamanca is a traditional
Andean meal, originally used
as a way for the people of the
region to render homage to
Mother Earth. Originally this
ceremonial feast consisting of
baked meats and vegetables
would only be prepared
between February and March
to celebrate the harvest or
during religious and social
celebrations such as marriages or baptisms.
Today, times have changed
and variations of this Andean
banquet can be enjoyed in
various restaurants all
throughout Peru, although
Sundays are the preferred
day. A traditional Pachamanca, however, usually

Food

See a video of Jesus making a Pachamanca.

The Andean feast

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involves the cooperation of an

entire community and can
take up to three hours to
make.
Men dig a hole in the ground
while the women season the
meats, clean vegetables and
gather herbs. A bed of volcanic stones is then heated in
this large earth pit with a wood
re. Here layers of meats,
vegetables, and spices are
piled high and topped by a
nal sheet of heated stones
and soil to prevent any heat
from escaping. The exquisite
aroma emanating from the
smoky warm earth explains
why it has remained a favorite
since ancient times.

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Highlands

When traveling to Chavin de Huantar from

Huaraz, you should fork over the extra soles
(about 200, or $70) for a taxi. The scenery is

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Prehispanic

beautiful and you can ask the driver stop as

often as you want for photo ops.

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Chavin de huantar
Located 68 miles from Huaraz
on the eastern slopes of the
Cordillera Blanca, Chavin de
Huantar is the site of the
Chavin culture, one of the
continent's oldest civilizations.
The site, once used as a large
ceremonial center, contains
ruins and artifacts that hold
geographical and religious
signicance. Scholars believe
Chavn de Huntar served as a
place of worship for the
people of the region as well as
serving as a home for
oracles.There is a great deal to

see: snaking underground

tunnels and galleries, temples
and plazas, and a complex
network of alleys and ducts. A
unique element of the ruins
are the highly stylized carvings
of humans going through
mystifying transformations, the
puma, condors and other
divinities. Other attractions
include the Chavin obelisk and
the Lanzon de Chavin all made
of keenly carved rock. Chavin
de Huantar is another of
Perus amazing feats of thousands -years-old engineering.

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Travels in Huaraz: The Trip to Chavin de

Huantar
Visiting Chavin de Huantar: Peru's Ancient Culture

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All of Peru

Three groups that offer birding trips are Kolibri

Expeditions Birding Tours, Manu Expeditions,
and Rainforest Expeditions.

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Wildlife

An important conservation group is ECOAN.

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Birdwatching in Peru
With an impressive ornithological diversity boasting
nearly 2,000 known species of
resident and migrant birds,
Peru is a bird watcher's paradise. As a matter of fact, there
are more bird species in Peru
alone than there are in all of
North America and Europe
combined. With more than
100 species of exotic hummingbirds and over 120 bird
species not found anywhere
else in the world, Peruvian
birds are simply amazing.

Containing every type of

habitat imaginable within its
borders, Peru exemplies
biodiversity. Of the 104 bio
zones found on earth, 83
occur in Peru adding further
diversity to the abundance of
bird species and bird watching
sites. To ensure the preservation of this natural wealth, the
country created a number of
protected areas and National
Reserves. Peru offers birdenthusiasts more than any
other country in the world.

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Follow a blog about birdwatching in

Peru.
VIDEO: The Creation of a Bird Reserve in
Northern Peru

Introduction

ALL OF PERU

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For the rst time in Perus history, the country is forging a national identity.
This integration revolves around a passion for Peruvian food, internal migration
and a newfound sense of national pride. While exploring Perus tremendous
geographical and biological diversity, look out for this exciting new force in
Peru.

Drink Pisco Sour

Drink Chicha Morada
Give thanks to Pachamama
Peru's Top Beer
Eat Lomo Saltado
Buy Peru's Best Silver
Drink Inka Kola

Indulge in Lucuma Ice Cream

Volunteer
Eat Pollo a la brasa
Eat Papa a la Huancaina
Limeade from the North
Birdwatching

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LIMA

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Once ignored by tourists, Lima is now recognized as a vibrant metropolis and

food capital of Latin America. Explore the vestiges of Limas proud colonial
past, and watch as it forges Perus new national identity up around you.

Stroll through Historic Lima

The Huacas of Lima
Paraglide over Miraores
See Lima by Bus
Lima Museum of Art
Party at a Pea
Drink Peruvian Coffee
Modern Art Galleries
Limas Cliff Mall

Lima's Oldest Churches

The Water Park
Lima's Organic Market
Pachacamac
Bull Fighting at Acho
Gifts in Miraores Market
Lima's Cemetery
Bohemia in Barranco
Erotic Art at Museo Larco
Classic Lima Bars
Tasty Beef Hearts
See a Market
National Museum
Peru's Horse Shows

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AMAZON

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Immense, bountiful and open for exploration: the Peruvian Amazon. Now more
than ever there are opportunites to explore the Amazons wonderful diversity
in an environmentally-responsible way. Welcome to the jungle.

Boat trip on the Amazon

Spotting Pink Dolphins
Floating Barrio of Belen
Visit the Amazon
Amazon River Race

Visit a Buttery Farm

Trip on Ayahuasca
The Jungle City
Tambopata and Manu

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AREQUIPA

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Explore Arequipas fantastic canyons and Andean culture. Then

save time to kick back in the citys squares and try its delicious cuisine.

Arequipa's Relaxing Square

Cotahuasi Canyon

Mazelike Monastery in Arequipa

Colca Canyon

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THE COAST

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Perus coast is a thin strip of desert packed with culture, cradles of civilization,
incredible wildlife and the most succulent seafood dishes you can ever imagine. The coast has a creole personality that is warm, welcoming and will make
you consider turning your two-week vacation into a year-long stay.

Eat Ceviche
Surf
Mancora
Lord of Sipan
The Mangroves of Tumbes
Fly over the Nazca Lines
Party at Asia Beach
The Adobe City of Chan Chan

Dune Buggy Riding

Aji de Gallina
Surf and Serve in the North
Tour a Pisco Distillery
Sandboarding
Lunahuana
Kite Surng
Peru's Patriotic Casserole
Afro-Peruvian Culture
Caral, Mother Civilization
Marine Wildlife
Marinera Dance Festival

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CUZCO

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Cuzco, the historic capital of the Inca empire, deserves a two-week vacation
just to begin to explore. Discover the regions history, pride and adventure
within these pages.

Experience Cuzco
Machu Picchu
Inca Salt Pans
Volunteer with Kids in Cuzco
The Sacred Valley
Cuzco Adventures Sports
Hike the Inca Trail
Try Different Inca Trails

A Festival at 15,000 Feet

Bike Trek from Tres Cruces
Cuzco Nightlife
Koricancha Temple
Choquequirao
The Inca Sun Festival

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HIGHLANDS

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For many, visiting Perus highlands is seeing the country at its most authentic.
The highlands and Andean Cordilleras hold a mysticism that stays as fresh as its
raried air, no matter how many times you return.

Train through the Andes

Train to Lake Titicaca
Cordillera Blanca
Drink Coca Tea
Bathe in Baos del Inca
Kuelap
Work on Porcon Farm
Chankillo

Gocta Waterfalls
See the Central Highlands
Virgen de Candelaria
Ventanillas of Combayo
Easter in Ayacucho
Trek with Llamas
Explore Lake Titicaca
Rock Forest of Huayllay
The Andean Feast
Chavin de Huantar

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1 STROLL THROUGH HISTORIC LIMA Javier

Photo Credits

4 0 M O N A S T E R Y I N A R E Q UIPA Pilar Olivares,

LLAMAS Anibal Solimano, PromPeru 73 LAKE

Liz a r z a b u r u 2 PISCO SOUR Nathan Paluck 3 HUACAS

P r o m P e r u 4 1 P E R U V I A N C OFFEE Heinz Plenge

TITICACA Rinda Payne 74 PAPA A LA

OF LIMA Javier Lizarzaburu 4 PARAGLIDE OVER

P a r d o , P r o m P e r u 4 2 M O D ERN LIMA ART Courtesy

HUANCAINA MundoCocinaVea.com 75 ROCK

MIRAFLORES Armando Alczar 5 CEVICHE Jose Caceres,

G a l e r i a L u c i a d e l a P u e n t e 43 CLIFF MALL Isabel

FOREST OF HUAYLLAY Eduardo Alberto Rojas

PromPeru 6 LIMA BY BUS Courtesy Mirabus 7 SURF Matt

G u e r r a 4 4 P E R U ' S S I L V E R Carsten Korch

Turpaud 76 LIMA'S ORGANIC MARKET Carsten

Catalano 8 TRAIN THROUGH THE ANDES Yadira Salazar

4 5 L I M A ' S O L D E S T C H U R CHES Magal del Solar,

Korch 77 PACHACAMAC Alan Paluck 78 BULL

9 MACHU PICCHU Carlos Sala, Prom Peru 10 CHICHA

P r o m P e r u 4 6 W A T E R P A R K Brenden Allen 47

FIGHTING AT ACHO Javier Lizarzaburu 79 BUY

MORADA Pilar Pedraza 11 INCA SALT PANS Nathan Paluck

T O U R A P I S C O D I S T I L L E R Y Nathan Paluck (l),

GIFTS IN MIRAFLORES Dyana M. Gonzales 80

12 VOLUNTEER CUZCO Karen Piper 13 PACHAMAMA

C a r s t e n K o r c h ( r ) 4 8 I N C A KOLA Courtesy

LIMA'S CEMETERY Rodney L. Dodig 81 BOHEMIA

Mylene D'Auriol, PromPeru 14 TRY DIFFERENT INCA

A r k i v P e r u . c o m 4 9 S A N D B OARDING Walter Hupiu,

IN BARRANCO Marco Mendoza 82 LARCO

TRAILS Alejandro Balaguer, PromPeru 15 TRAIN TO LAKE

P r o m P e r u 5 0 L U C U M A I C E CREAM

MUSEUM Alan Paluck 83 CLASSIC LIMA BARS

TITICACA Gihan Tubbeh, PromPeru 16 CORDILLERA

A g r o N e g o c i o s P e r u . o r g 5 1 LUNAHUANA Bruce

Isabel Guerra 84 TASTY BEEF HEARTS Dyana M.

BLANCA Mark Ursino, Magali del Solar, PromPeru 17 COCA TEA

C l a r k 5 2 K I T E S U R F I N G N athan Paluck

Gonzales 85 CHINCHA Nathan Paluck 86 CARAL

Zack Kinney 18 SACRED VALLEY Carsten Korch 19 CUZCO

5 3 P E R U ' S P A T R I O T I C C A SSEROLE Caroll Ortiz

Michael Tweddle, PromPeru 87 LIMEADE FROM

ADVENTURES SPORTS Courtesy Enigma 20 PERU'S TOP

5 4 V I S I T T H E A M A Z O N M a gali del Solar,

THE NORTH Isabel Guerra 88 MARINE WILDLIFE

BEER Zack Kinney 21 HIKE THE INCA TRAIL Silvia Rico,

P r o m P e r u 5 5 A M A Z O N R I V ER RACE Courtesy

Mayu Mohana, PromPeru 89 A MARKET

Enigma 22 FESTIVAL AT 15,000 FEET PromPeru archive

L i n d a F l y n n 5 6 B U T T E R F L Y FARM Gudrun Sperrer

Sebastian Castaeda 90 NATIONAL MUSEUM

23 LIMA MUSEUM OF ART Giancarlo Shibayama, PromPeru

5 7 A Y A H U A S C A A l e x a n d e r Zaitchik 58 IQUITOS

Rodney L. Dodig 91 MAMACONA HORSE SHOWS

24 PARTY AT A PEA Courtesy of Carajo! 25 MANCORA

Y a d i r a S a l a z a r 5 9 T A M B O PATA AND MANU Anibal

Daniel Silva, PromPeru 92 MARINERA DANCE

Rutger Bosker 26 LORD OF SIPAN Walter Hupiu, PromPeru

S o l i m a n o , P r o m P e r u 6 0 V OLUNTEER Courtesy of

FESTIVAL Armando Alcazar 93 BIKE TREK FROM

27 MANGROVES OF TUMBES Walter Hupiu, PromPeru

A N I A 6 1 B A O S D E L I N C A Luis Gamero,

TRES CRUCES Rinda Payne 94 CITY OF CUZCO

28 LOMO SALTADO Caroll Ortiz 29 BOAT TRIP ON THE

P r o m P e r u 6 2 K U E L A P R o b ert Kittilson

Cathy Rinkel (l), Carlos Sala, PromPeru (r) 95

AMAZON Brenden Allen 30 PINK DOLPHINS Courtesy

6 3 P O R C O N F A R M M y l e n e D'Auriol, PromPeru

CUZCO NIGHTLIFE Alvaro Davila 96 KORICANCHA

WikiSumaqPeru.com 31 BARRIO OF BELEN Michael

6 4 C H A N K I L L O P i l a r P e d r a za 65 COLCA CANYON

TEMPLE Carlos Sala, PromPeru

Tweddle, PromPeru 32 FLY OVER THE NAZCA LINES Heinz

M a y u M o h a n n a , P r o m P e r u 66 GOCTA Lluis

97 CHOQUEQUIRAO Morten Bruun Jensen 98

Plenge Pardo, PromPeru 33 ASIA BEACH Rodrigo Posado

D a l m a u 6 7 P O L L O A L A B RASA Carsten Korch (l),

INCA SUN FESTIVAL Gabrielle Gorder (l), Renzo

34 CHAN CHAN Walter Silvera, PromPeru 35 DUNE BUGGY

I s a b e l G u e r r a ( r ) 6 8 C E N T RAL HIGHLANDS

Uccelli, PromPeru (r) 99 ANDEAN FEAST Carsten

RIDING Walter Hupiu, PromPeru 36 AJI DE GALLINA

N a t h a n P a l u c k 6 9 V I R G E N DE CANDELARIA

Korch 100 CHAVIN DE HUANTAR Rodney L.

Rodney L. Dodig 37 VOLUNTEER AND SURF Courtesy

A n d r e w D a r e 7 0 V E N T A N I L LAS OF COMBAYO

Dodig 101 BIRDWATCHING Jos Alvarez Alonso,

WAVES 38 AREQUIPA'S SQUARE Nathan Paluck 3 9

C a r l o s O l i v a r e s 7 1 E A S T E R IN AYACUCHO

PromPeru

CO T A H U A S I C A N Y O N P i l a r O l i va r e s , P r o m P e r u

D o m i n g o G i r i b a l d i , P r o m P eru 72 TREK WITH