N().

76

Oa~
Four ue
Picture Frames

NOTES FROM THE SHOP

$3.95

No, 76

EDITOR'S

C{.)LUMN

Sawdust
Editor Donald 13, ,)<,<.lIke
Ot"QInlJi_Qr To<!K,..li"""
~tiLl1.as:I.n$lr..dimrDougJ a ~ L Hick...
.\
...
~tcdj1(lr Terry J_ Sttohlnnn
'\'"""","Ili<litor>; Jam .. M, Dolan
Riclt,U'd S. p"",,,,

G(,rdon Gnippe
Proje('tJ)~nl'r Ken :'lunkel
lUu~lrnlo"" Da\-id Kr<!y1in1t
Cnry ("hri~n"""_Jl
RodSlookes
Chri~ Glowacki
o;rkV.r~
Kurt s.:hul~
t i~l.alJnn Oirft.1of U7, 1~n.-de!:JO"

SubscriJ)<i'"'M."'ll!er Sand) Baum

~l\\~l.J1ldSak... Ke.nlA. Buckren

Shop\l:1nllJ!t'l' su_,,~t;urti!.
WOODS~flTlJ CALUOG

Mark .. lnn rn",clot

Ruben Mun'),

Grophic> Oin,"<lor Jon Snyder

Projo<tSupplks Leslie Ann Gearhart

UndaJones
\\tun:lu,uS(' JefT) CnnlOn. Sup",
GIo';" Sh""I!.'l1l
Ronald Long
[)"vid 51011r

CustorucrScnit:1:

MW

l..inda :\1of'l"OlA
CU~1:0nlCrScr\!h:cJCflni~ F.nO$
(j('n~U~
Branson

~Iic
Smith
Roberta Ru~h

"Yeah, bUIyou nl",d ~ 1010(1001, HIbuild

Not rt!aUy. 'lbt: Jlliije,rity tll "-Iln.: l:,.(lon\~
willljusI3table sa" and a roU1.r, 0(,,,,,1"<',
woodworkers arc kl1owl1lor in\'t',"inll >asons 10 add 100Jis10 their sh~p", And a proi<'clJik~Ihisonf' ,'ould glve)'ou ,I lUI01 good

BuiJdin~~~alnrt<nancC' Ken Griflilh

~>\tt"hi~
Krause

STORE MANAGERS

KwllVeh<b

&.rIu:~,('A \1..."""1Ocna",,"

lelill t,...() \Ica"'e~and (t(lc.I.t dc",r i,t ...t.'dCf

In Uli!O:one ~lnaJl projl"Cl you l,a\lt' ;dllh{
basics of (abjn(~lmaking. By Iht- l1JI1(' y,nl
\\'C,'O;' done. }'uu'd have h,'arntod.t Itll

Lori Seib<:rt

J O1J)'t\ l~ro~'S

1(,rt,lbl, .

I"'"

a projecllik ...that.

SQun:dJook Jean ~1)'ets

..
\dnlini..u'i,li~'c~
01("1')'1 ..\. Sc<.u

t., hUII,i:)

~lc..,1 \\'utl a round seal

ihJt'~ ,lllIhll) ""0<,,,,.1 111111.make it com\'1'" W.dll

I used to think thaI Ih(' best advic.. was

rhal'\o4, ~11111Itt.'1fIUIII;l blank on the lathe,
the prMti. 'aJ approach, start wi th "'W .1Tla1l turn it rf"llul.Ar'tl thvn turn a rtOSS in the
proje....1Sto get the hang 01 the basics.Tlu n ",',It JII" like turninuu very 'hallnw bowl.
work up to Ia.rger p",.jecl$.
lint what if >"uu elfin', have-a 1atJle?
RUI lhal mighl not be much fun, ..spe()kQ:),. if Y(IU J1R\'l' a 'C'lllt.r,) au can make
ciaDy if you start with n small pm)'....1 Y'''' aji~ 11\31 rou'", 0,11 th. same .JlalIuw recess,
don't like jUllot to learn a basic Il,\-1111iq\It.
11" )IgI, ""'ph'lu build, and works great,
\Vhy not start out wilh a project YI>U'(" (~ot' p.aJ.!t 22 )
really interested in - no mauer how bl~
or
'1'\\
I havc u tradition ofimrcduchow complicated it is? SUT<.Y')U nlighl J:tt 111 111J.: II"W IlC"(llil, wIle, \\ crk I,t."n."so you getan
over your head, bUIyou'd leam an awful luI '~I',Ihi .. hu all rolltribUI," 1011'00000"mili.,
in the process of tligging your way out.
I 'Ilr..rtlln"ld~, I "Ollll'leldy (orgolto menBUIback 10 the original question. Wh,lI', h(1I1 !'t("\'c'l urti ....uur ~C)Pmallager .
a R()Od prujf:Ct to start out tIn? ()n4 IXI~.""l
~t V" ,,,'Iuall) ,;I"rkd ..orking with us
bililY i, lit .. Night Stand featured on the abtJ\lt Iive ye,I'''' tI$:u ..., II,.: \"oodsmiU.
(CW('r of this issue. You weuld k-arn men~I'rl: '1111"1 nbe)lIl .1 vear~('. y.'e decided
woodworking tC\~I'niqut"Swith thi ...(Int' til ct- 1}1,,' we JIC"\-di .. Ifllflll" help in our shop here
jcci than almost any other I can think ul.
.It 111': 111"J.!.l/lllt'" IjlI1,(,... - sonleone to
To build it, you have 10 l(lu.' up " ",lid
m,u.'gc IIIl' ,hup, and build some o(th"prowood lop, make frame and panel ,i,ll'S, "",I .it'" I~
Alttl proto.ypcs (()r prfJj(,_,\t~St~"e
also
build dovet.nt.>d draw(,'r$. By .. han,(inl: ,h,' hI 1J)' th,,' l"llll(iN ~Jld1t.
....hnIC:11 iUu$lrdlOrs
de,ign slighOy,yourould ...limi,,,,,'llw bu., ".nlinat" Ih,"
("n~ a, Ih,') build th('

Jo)' Jol\ll ... n

CQRPORATE SERVICES
C..OI... lIcr Paul E, CnI.)'
Ilookk.. "iIlB Un"" O'!luuri<o
N~rkAdminbtr.ltor Dt)ula.q: ~1.Udsler

0,,,, Moin<,,1A

ere's a $!ood question. -I want tt' Rt'l

started in woodworking. bUll dun'l
knowwhauo build, Have any""l!ltciun'?

projl'\l ...(or

l'dt"l, j

~.u:.
fJut tnost inlportanl.

SoI"llltiJn(~slit: l(t~
11\(-bt'tll him at golL
N~'\\ F.\Cf';;,:>I"w befo,," IfO'll,,'_1

"o~~

;_\1..;,r_111a\'t.1~1
Illt.'nLitln

$t'\lt:rJl

otll~r

n("\\'

ad-

dili"n< Ihal are part of our l"'~r-growing

mail ord('r caw.log dhi,;jon.

r-1tS1. Robb Joturr), hasjoin{'d us 10 h('ad

up Ihi< group as marketing dirl'Clor_Robb
h,$ had a lot of experience ill!he woodwork,
ing field, (Hc last worked (or RBJ, a manut~clurer o( >emil saw~and plauen;,) Robb
rra.~ns.
will help us organize and expand our mail
But somctimt."S tht'1'l"'S fun in delemlillorder"",,"c'e_llis main responsibilities are
illl( how 10 g~l the jI.b done wilh Ihe tools to SCICCl produ~ls and project supplies for
you have al hand_ For~xampl(,',I() glu ...lh... thl' catalog, {Mosl of his ,w.rk w.11be se<'n
boanl. (or the (01) of O.e NiJ:11I SI311d It)' in Ihe nexl catalog, 111wail I~ talk aboul it
g,'ther cdg<"-ItH-dge, you mighl lhink you b3u~ we have some nev.'(eatur(,.~in stort
(or the calalog,)
nerd ajoinl"" 10jointlh" edl!6,
To take your ord~~ mId hell) wilh all)'
Bul ma)'be nol You could accnmpli<b
lhi:-; same' task with iI han(t plant". or On a probl~ms you bave with your subscription,
lable saw, and tbere's Ihr"" lor flourway. to Roberta and Joy have joined Ihe '~I$IOmer
joint tht! edges wilh a router
service groUI), And Lori's "oicc will probErn.EJUlNnN(" -11181,
in fact, is the basi$ ably b<"!.hefin" on~ you hear if you call our
ofthe article on lodge jointing in Ihis is>o'Ue, offices~she'$ our ne~'receptionist.
ThCrt' are lim('$ when you need the righl
All in all,tha.'sa 101of growth for our mail
1001 (ur tllC job, Bul Ihere are abo time:; order group,
when th"IOt.I.al hand can gollhe job dun~,
XF.XT ISSUE, The nexl issue of
SIlO~ STOOL.AnothH' good example o( \I'""dJ<"tili< will hi' mailed during Ihe la"
Ihis is the ShOI) SIOOIill Ihis issuc,l..cI's say w~k ofSePI"mb~r. 1991.

No, 76

LOOK

INSIDE

Contents
Useful lips
[ellou:
ITips & Techniques I [1 tcorkers:
1) Ea<!yFise
/"0111

11100d-

,}10ltllting.

2)

Checking 0 Miter Gauge .. 1) CIOIIIP

Cradles. 4) Picture F'I'(UM Splines. 5)
Rouier Table.Hold-Dowu.PI us Qa ick Tips.

I Cherry Night Stand I~

This
with
heirloont
alongside

11121 We show sel"elu/ ll'<lyllto dl'ess lip

I Shop Notes

111611)

Shop Stool

pag!' c

classic cherry cnbillet is built

traditional joinery. It' 071
projett (hat looks as good
a sOfela.~it does nect (0 a bed.

IDesk Picture Frames

Cherry Niqh! Stand

(I

sililplefrrt me with decorative strips 0/

wood.Thecorllersa l'6joinediJ!!stubtenons
I hatfit iuta the &:1 Ill!' gIOOI'e!! a.~thepicture.
Drill PI'f!-~1IAng/e Gauge. .t) Drill
rlngled Pial/ann. .3) ROlltillg
Inside Chamfers. 4) Trimminq Through
Te)/all.~.
Press

I liSI Tlte
legs/or lit i,~
oak stool are dowels
wedged ;)/to roul/d nlorlises. A
scooped seat mckee it comfortable i1lthe
shop orjust (Lbout(til ywhere else.

ISeat Scooping Jig

11221 A s/top-moc{ep/Y'lVoodjighelps

1 Wedged Tenons

11241 A til rf)ngh tenon is st ronqer uhe

ITalking Shop

11261 Howlouuoidg/ue-joillf/ailure,alld

IEdge Jointing Basics

11281 Goodedqejoints sluuethreecharac-

Sources

No. 76

PI'O'

duce /llii/orllllu,colltolll'ecl seat

/01' the Shop Stool-or an!! chair seat.
wedge locks it ill/he mortise. It's all
attractive joint, too. especially i/ the
ICedgeis madefrom a tOlltlYlslillg wood.

what to une fora thin toble saui ill'

seri. Also, ichat the difference betlCUIl
reaction lVood and case hardening?
teristics: lite edges arp .~t.raight.
smooth; and square 10thefuce. WeshOll!
the tools c(?ldtechniques to aehiece them:

11311 Hardware
:

and project supplies

needed/or the p''Ojects ill this issue.
WoclI.bml(h

Wedged Round: Tenons

pagel!,

FRO

FELLOW

WOODWORKERS

Tips & Tee

ques

EASY VISE MOUNTING

Bench vises are heaY) 10 lift
N'01o\ ju.t lift the 21<4up and
and awl..-ward to move around. balancethe viseagainstthefrnnt
So installing ene can be a real edge of the bench. see ~ig. 1.
chore. I used to dlsassembl the Then mark the positiOn for the

vise orelse tip the bcn.l1 on <od8" mountin~ ~'W':oI on the beuom
or upside down 10do the job. BUI of the benchtop, <f'e Fig. la.

I found an easier way

Iusca pieceo( scrap 21<4300u1
36" long see ~Ig. I. On the 21<4
mark the distance frornthe floor
to the bottom of the bench lop
Oessabout W'). Then damp the
2x4 in tbe vise with Ow vise
mounting bracket lined up 10
this mark

Mer drilling pilot holes. raise

the 2x'l ag;tjn to hold the vise as
you drive in the screws.
If you use 1~'O2x I 'Scraps.
damped in the vise rather than

cne.thevise willalmost stand up

by il5clr.
1\'/1 Ro:
Sa" 1,,,:.Obi.,,,J. ('a/((orllin

CHECKING A MITER GAUGE

Gcltinglllt miter gauge on my square 10 see if Ihe go' corner is
table saw adjusted $(I the saw accurate, see J~g4lao
cutsexactly IS' is tricky. Bill I've
IILhealll(l~isexactly9() .theu
Cound an ea~)'WlJ)' iu check it you can be sure the miter gauge
with a scrap piece of21<4.
issei so the saw willcut a perfect
First, set the miter gauge 10 15' anglc.
45 . Now CUIoff one end of Ih~
But if the angle is less than
2x4 and discard thai piece. Next, 90 set your miter gaugt' 10
flip the 21<4ov"r and make a sec- slightly mon' than 45' and make
ond cut, crl'aling a triangular another lest cut, 11th~ angle is
cul~rr piece. <1,,, ~11(.1.
grealer than 9(1 . sel YUllr miter
Then use this cut-off piece 10 gauge 10 slightly I"". than 45'
sec how accuralely the miter and try again.

r;li1--;....
:;:;-;MIltlI;:;;;;;;o~
.. uo;;;;;,:;TOo--:;:::===;;;:;:::;;:====:::l
..,
AND CUf11UAHOU

Q.

(HECK 90' ANGlf

WITH Tl,Y.sQUAD

gaulle is set Butdon't check lite

45' comers. Instead. use a try

CLAMP CRADLES
.Its hard 10 keep pipe damps

nlil----------7.~==;;~~~;;==~
a.

the same diameter as thl' oul

side diameter of the pipe. :'\ext.
stock lor lodge-gluing. To solve cut the block in half through the
the problem.! made a set of rub- hole. making two cradles about
bet-lined cradles, They hold the 1'1'," high. "''' F"tg. I.
clamps finnly in position.
Then. 10 k..ep the pipe from
The cradles have Ilip added rollingin the cradle. glue a piece
benefit of raising the damps
of rubber inner tube (or sandhigh enough that the handles paper) into the cradle. The pipe
clear the beachtop as they're will rest on the top edges or the
turned 10 tighlen the damps.
rubber liner. see Fig. ra.
To make a palrof cradles. start
To keep the cradle from railby ripping a piece of scrap 21<4La ing over. I glue it to 3" square
11-2'wide and 3\.2" long, Now piece of 114" plywood.
bore a hole centered in one side
Fred 11. lu7Id",.hoo!
of the block. The hole should be
11"Ib ,g. :Vf!lJ1 l,),~
from rolling while adjusting

GlUt aO.Bat UN!.

IHTO CIWIU

,
\

fOP nx;&OF~
RUB&EIIUNlit
'\

,,"
",YWOOD

No. 76

QUICK TIPS
SAFI. ~NC L HOLDIR
.UNGG.'"I

Sometimes Ineed a sli~free \\'ht-o I'd lean over a project

PICTURE FRAME SPLINES

.1 recently made a number 01
picture frames 3~gifts. But
brads and other Iasteners that
hold the picture in the frame are
hard to remove when you want
to change the picture.

So in-

stead. 1 used splines set into

lInJOvesjust behind the backing
board in the frame, see fig. la,
The splines are W -thick and

:a"wide. They fit snugly into

grooves cut into all four frame
piece>. see Fig. I.
Just remem ber to cut the

groove for the spline 00(011: cutting the rabbet in the back of the
frame. (lfyoucut therabbet first,
you won't have a wide surface to
ride on the saw table when you
cut the groove.)
Once in the groove, the
splines bull ag'~inst each other,
so there's no need lor glue or
brads.To change the picture,
use a knife puint 10 gently work
the spline. out of tile grooves.
Bob jlfar/()I('fI

Akrcm.Olrio
a,

-SACKINO
IOARD

GlASS

"

SPUNE

grip 00 a piece of round stock. with my shop apron on. the penlike when I insert a round chair cil in the apron pocket would fall
rung into a hole.
Outor poke n,~ in !be neck.
So 1 use one of those small To eliminate this. my wife repend! pocket
sheets of rubber designed to moved tt>,;> v~I1i<.<l1
on
my
apron.
Then
she sewed it
belp remove lids from jar.;. I gill
back on at a less bothersome
mine ata local hardware store,
They're inexpensive ~d f"t._.... angte{aObut45').
ally increase your grip.
Next. she di1.id\ld tlw pocke.
.11.P Cnri'Q/I in two lengthwiseandshortltned
&11:"''''''''/0. Califon.ia oneside, Now Ihaveapecket for
short pencils. too,
E. W. ,lfll8l(lk
GLUtSPtlIADla
\
'
t
1f'
O
>",.
Pen
'UI.yll/~nia
When du",.. ling. it's onen dilticultto get just tile right amount
SIND IN YOUR nps
oj 1,(1"" into the dowel notes, To
get around this problem.I use a
lfyou would like to share a
double-headed (duplex) nail to
tip or idea, jllst send it to
II'ood6111ilh,lips and Tech3wh' glue in the holes.
when dipPed io the glue, the
niques. 2200 Grand Ave..
double head retains just the
Des Moines.Iowa 50312.
\V<, will pay (upon publica,ight amount of glue between
tinn) $15 to $100. depending
wlwobeads.
on the published length of
A 8d nail is pt!r!cct for V4"
do.....
ets, It's fast. easy, and it
the up. PIe..,,., include an exdoesn't make n mess.
planation and" photo or
sketch (wclldrdw anewone),
Do", 711Q'I"P.W)1

Lj~'~jl,..::::::::::::::=-~~~~==~~;~===~J
,~~~--------~
"'--CUT

GROOvt
eescee
ItAaBfT

Th~ Rii~S,ClIhfon,in

ROUTER TABLE HOLDDOWN

I needed a way to keep a workpiece down ligl\t against my
router table. So I made a hold-

down {rom a piece of scrap oak

that workslike the leal spring on
ncar. sc,fig. 1.
To mak e a hold-down like this.
start with a piece of ~J"thid,
hardwood.aboet 3 wide-and 12"
t1

NOl.76

thick spacer between tile workpiece and the strip, see Step 2.
Then 10 make the strip bow
OUI in the middle. bond it nv,,.
the spaccrasyou glue and damp

Step 1 in Ag.2.
:-low llIue orsctew the stril) to or SCfE:v.- uin place.
To use the hold-down, clamp
the edges of the "'orkpi('c<'
\\ here tbe wedges were re- it to therouter table fence so that
moved. To do this. 61'S1put a ....
/'. the workpiece is held firmly to

~HQU)OOWN
TO ffN<t

long. r\l)IJo,' rip a VI6"widi! strip

off one long ~dge. Next, cut
wedge-shaped pieces of( the
corners of the uther edgv, sec

the table. see F'i~.t. The workpiece should move frl"t'ly

8..-;

it's

passed under tllt hold-down.

V()U can also USl' this hukldown on th. t.blt saw. To do
thi s. damp it to tlw rip tencc o(

the saw
Brue Gralunn
Jlr ilum t'(lit'. }\nl'S('S

RtP l,,-tHIO( sntlP

Off EDGE Of WORKPIECE.

.~
5l1UP OIRKlS SPAINO
TNSlON ON WORKPtf:Cf

GWEOft
$1alP

$("-(W

STEP 1

STEP 2

ON !).IDS

HEIRLOOM

PROJECT

Cherry Night Stand

When you set out to build a classically st),led cabinet,
it seems only natural to use classic joinery ... dovetailed drawers,
frame and panel sides, and raised panel drawer fronts.

s I was "urkilll! on Ih;s Nighl Stand and il was is a frame-and-panel unit, nol just a piece ()( plywood
ilellinning to take shape, " Iew people wandered screwed 10the back of lite case.
into the shop 10check Ih, progress. TIley all had the
JOINERY.Allbough most of lite JOInery of the cabinet
same Initialcomment, "1l's sn small,"
i,vt'ry traditional, weehose a slightly unusual approach
BUIil<seal,. in Ih,shopcan 1)(>
deceiving. 1'111 il along forjoiningthe drawerrails (that support and separate the
,ide a bed or sofa chair. and il takes on .n 1I1~proper drawers) (0 thesldesofthecablnet, Typically.theserails
pruporuons, Anrl, il~ seale trom a creative standpoint is art' joined 10 the cabinet sid~,with mortise and tenon
nn diifcrenllhan the challenges offerl-d by a full-sized join". However, we designed the ralls so Ihey could be
dresser. (\\'hicll means it'sa great \\'ay to lest your skills. mounted with a tongue and dado arrangement -the
same Joint used 10 auach lite facing strips 10 lite front of
without u,io)l a 101orlumber.)
~()MPASIO:> PIECE. This Nigbl Stand is designed 10 the mill. (refeno Figs. 6and i).
complement IWO earlier lI'OOd81/1I1" projects - the
'IATORlAlS.We chose black cherry forthisprojetlCherry Dresser (l1'ood$1,,;l" No. 58) and the Ungerie includingcherry pl)'Wood panels forthe fram e-and-panel
Dresser (:-0:0. 53). UYOIIwere tostretch some of'its parts. side s, The drawer sides are made of poplar. whkh adds
you'd end up with one otthose project, (almo,I).
a niceconrrasi forthedovetailson the drawerfronts, The
Fl>\CK I)SSU;;<.The ~nly major design change we've ctnl~'significant hardware needed isthree brass-and-permade (or lit" "'i)lhl Stand is its finished back. The bock celain drawer pulls (rcfer to Sources. pagp 31).

No. 76

MATERIALS

EXPLODED VIEW
OVERAll DIMENSIONS:

-------J(

2O"W x 22'~H " '6"0

::

SIDES
--@

.~

TOP

cow

A RoiIs(4)
B Sliles(4)

:Yo X2 - 10'\'.

C Panels (2)- Ply

V.x1~lS'~

.x 1">-1~

BACK

MOl.DING

'4 x 2 - 14'1.
-'V. x 2 18'\t
'4 ~1~15'h

011011$(2)
E Stfles(2)
F Pone! (1) - PlV

r RAiL

TOPF~

fRONT
0/, 1V, 1~

G Ftonl Sllle!(2)

. x 1It.!- 16\(0
I Top/Bol.Fo<;:ings(2) ~.x
1"'" . 15".
J Middle Facings (2)
0/. - 151>'.
H RoIIs(4)

DRAWER

FRONT

~4'

ORAWfR GUIDES/RUNNERS
. x I It.!-94(Rgh)
~x 1J?-I~V.(Rgh)

K rl\Jnne($(6)

L GuIdes(6)
~

SIDE
STILE

BASE
M Fromefr./Bock(2) '1' 1!~-2O
N frome SIde$(2)
0/. x 1',.- 16
o KJckboold Ff.tllle. (2) '1'. x 2'I1l- 191t.!
P KlCkbooId SIdE>s(2) ~. x

m - 151~

TOP & TRIM

'1' 1620
~x~-22(Rgh)

QTopCl)
R CoveMoldlng(S)

TOP DRAWER
5 Front (1)

T Sock(1}
U Sldes(2)

0/. )< 3'.'.1' 15'/.

\?x3'1l 15'/.
,,>.3'J.r 12V.

V BoNom(l)-PIy

" 12'1'\6- ld7/16

BOnOM/MIODU

DRAWfRS
4x51/4 -15"_

WFronts(2)

MOLDING

X Bocks(2)
y Sldes(4)

I'lx 5'/0' 15'/.

Z Bottom(2)-PIy

V. X12!n. 14~.

cove

SUPPLIES

FRAME

SIDE

..,___r.,

Drower BoilPulls (3)

DrowerTlXnburtons(3)
Nylon GlIde Slops (6)

KlCKBOARO

SIDE

CUnlNG

PLYWOOD

DIAGRAM

'."Pl'tWOOO

La r

E_

iT

8r

~~. x 6"- 9t. (4 lid.. ft.)

=[

,as: ..

.,~ 5V. - 12V.

o
T

FI

..... x.4t"

;11.1

No. 76

Wood;tnith

CASE
GROO\'E:FOR P.""ElS. \V11enall the rails

The nighl .t;and is a

and stiles for the case framl.osare cut 10size,

frame-and-pMel units: groovesarc CUton the inside edgestoaccept
the panels. Cut these grooves wide enough
two side units joined
to a back unluhar, to- to accept the plywood panels. I-'l' deep, and
gether, form 8 -\1- centered on the thickness or the frame
shaped- assembly.
pit-res. see Fig. I.
ACTO~Sthe front of
ShOP '1ote:Thcpanel'lin' made (rom \t4'"
thick
pl}'Wood.Burmost bardwoed plywood
'-------'
thecase arefour rails
...ith auached fueing strips which define the actually measun'Sies.thao II,' thick. So cut
the grooves just wide enough 10accept the
upening;; for three drawers.
a(/1<olthkkncss of the plywood.
BACK & SIDE FUMES
TElIONS. After cutting the gmoves, I col
case madeupor three

'low cut th panels (C, f) til size. allowing 'lt6" clearance all around so th~ panels
will 61inside lhe frames, see F'(g. I.
,\SSE'lBtE FlUMES. Next. the (rames can
be assembkd around the plywood panels.
To do this, fil'l'lghl('lhe rails onto the panels.
Then glue 011 the stiles. As you clamp each
assembly together (across the joints) keep
the assemblysquare and full.
R.~IIErs.To keep the back and side
frames in alignment during assembly of the
cabinet, a shallow rabbet is cui on the inside
faceofboth back stiles. S('(Ifig. 2. I cuuhese
rabbets on the table sa w using. dado blade
with an auxiliary fence. see rig. 3.

I b<>gan work on the eablnet by making the

stub tenonson the ends ofall six rails. These

frame-and-panelunits forthe sidesand back.

Each unit consistsof a tOJ>and bonom (bori
7.ontal) rail and two (vertical) .till'S thai surround a plywood panel
RAIlS & ~'1lU:S,Stan by ripping (our side
rails (A) and two back rails (0) to width
and length (rom :V,thickstock. see Fig. l.
Next. rip (our side stiles (B) and two back
stiles (E) (0 fmishE'dwidLlt.see Fig. 1.Th4.'O
cui all six stiles to the same length (IAA\;',),

The length o( the tenons matches the

Jom SU>ES&- I!.~CK..When rabbets have
depth o( the grooves (Vi'). The tenons are been cut on the back stiles, lhe case sides
centered on the thickness of the rails. and and back are read)' lO be assembled into a
the thickness matches the widt It of the -U- shape, refer 10 Fig. 5 on the (acing page,
grooves. see Fig. 2.
To do this. first spread glue alcng therabP,'""ELS.\\C,thgrooves and tenons COL on bets in the back stiles. Now position the side
all of the frame pieces. dry-assemble the frames into the rabbets, then damp across
back frame. and also one side frame, to take the back. Note: Check the inside comers (or
measurements (or the plywood panels,
square aner attaching the clamps.

SIDE FRAME (MAK'lWOI

I-

ll.",

",,"
\

t--.
....

-iS"Ji:
4'""

I
-

",._

~-E":'
n

---i

BACK fRAME

....,

1.

11.1-

RAIL,;'

SIDE

STU.E

1----,.....

FRONT

J..-

,,,,,"

".--1 :

~'--I

~I

tenons fit into the grooves in the stiles.

,....
~.

........

PANfl

PANEL

-t-

@
STllE /

BACK CORNER

FRONT CORNER

UI' AlUlI
IA(K FlAM( 1$

(UT" ....

rnu

,
BACK
ItAlI.

SID<

mLf

~~r-~'
~M~D

fRONT

STIll

@)

No. 76

F.ONTSTIUS
The (ronl 01 the case is made up 01 a pair oi
vertical stiles glued 10 the front of the side
frames. see r&g. 5. Then. rails and facing
strips are added. refer to Fig. 7.
Stan by ripping the front stiles (G) 10
width.then cuIling them 10 the same length
as the side frame. refer to Fig. 1.
O.o\JlOES.Next. toacceptthe tromrads, cut
V." x-V." dadoesacrossthe back of each stile.
(Measure tloe location of the dadoes from
the top end of each sule, see Fig. 1.)
A1TACIISOLES.To mount the front stiles
to the side frame. first cut a rabbet along the
back (dadoed) fa.,., of each front stile, see
Figs. 1 and 4. Then glue the front stiles into
place. see Figs. 5 and Sb.
f.ONT ItAILS
Measure across the inside of the case at the
back to determine the length of the four

front
them 10this
length,rails
and (H).TIlen
rip them tocross-cut
finished width.
rescues. To iorm tongues on the (ronl ot
the rails (1061 the dadoes in the stiles). cut
Iwordb1)(:tsonthclrontcdgeolcachrail,see
~ig.6. These tongues also wiU hold the
facing strips. refer 10Fig. 7a.
rail are gm
led' in
PACINGSlRIPS. Aliter thecraus
place. the focing strips (1 and J) can be
ripped to "1dth. NOle: There are two dilterent sizes of (acing strips. see Fig. 7a.
CtrrGROOVES.Next. CUIa groove on the
back (ace of each strip LOfit. OlltO the tongue
on the front rails. NOle: The groove on the
top and bottom strips (I) is offset on the
width. sec Fig. 7.
CIIT TO LENGnl. Now cui the strips to
length 10 fit between the front stiles.and glue
them in place. see I~g. 7.

FIRST: GLOE ...,.

AND BACK

FlAMlS TOGmtOt

,
..........

~
~

'

CORNDtS
fOI_$QUAR

SECONo,

~~_~~'~DG~"~O~F~"~OE~nAM
OW. FlOHr ST1USON

0(1t)

f-=-_J ~~~

a.

FRONT RAIL

RAIL

~
~GUt

TORT
~H

fl!OHT

$J1US

~"

,""~;;::-=:.,
- -~';) -;"

1--1'''"_

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II

-_..-

NOTE:

f-l",",.
-

CUT'

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S'.

fRONT

Tom

-snll

$f~

a.

(ronl rails

ao. sec Fill. Sa.

GUIDES.Next. cut six \o2".wideguides (L)

to length so tiler fit between Ole back of the
case and the back o( the front stiles (Gl, see
Fig. Sa. Now screw a guide to the lOP of a
runner 10make a drawer support, sec Fig. S.
Glue and screw the completed supports 10
the inside of the case. with the front ends of
the drawer guides (1..) glued to the lOP of the
front rails. see Fig. Sa.

TOP FACING

,r~,,
!
_L

DIlAWU RUNNIIS & GUIDIS

Once the main case is complete. begin work
on the drawer supports. Each support consiSts of a runner and guide. sec Fig.S.
RUNNERS. To make the runners (1<). rip
six pieces of :1'," stock to width, see Fig. S.
Then cut these to length 10 fit between the
back of the case and the back edge 01 the

'I!OHT

(MAk' FOUR)

' ...

M:IO]O~lf~F~A:C~IN:G]t2)
r-T
J
~
.j
BOTTOM FACING
~

BOTTOM ~
FACING

0--

("'Of

CHAM<..

,,"

(a

, .. " ."".~iL...~CJ

l~

CHAMFlts

To give Ill. case a finished look. slopped

chamfers are routed on the outside edges of
aU the stiles, and also around the inside
edll'!Sof the side frames, see rill.7. (For routing the inside chamfers, refer to paRe 17.)

No. ;6

\'(/ooJ,mim

BASE & TOP

~9~~~rl
I'

\Vdh
!he bask
of
the nighl
standcase
com-

a,

pkit', work au! begin

on !he base. TIle base
assembly consists o(

a base frame that's

glued on lOP ofa kkkboard trame.
B,\SE FRAME. To

CROSS
SECTION

.,.

BASE

make the base frame, cuta frame front (M). FRAME SIDE
.ax t ....
frame back (also M) and two frame sides
,,'
1Ih.WOOOSCI!IW
O\ltlt
J
(N) to width, see fig. 9. Then rollRh cut all
HANG
Iourpieces to length, 1"larger than the case.
Before L'UtUngthe piece. 10 final length,
rout a bullnose edge on each piece. First,
b. 8ASE FRAME 1,...,"0.
rout a W' round-over on the top edge. see
Fig. 9b. Then, to r01l1 the bottom edge,
t
switch 10 3 v~"round-ever bil raised ~Il"
/
N
above the router table.
8ASEFRAME
8ASE
\~.0.
After the pieces arc routed. miter both FRONT/BACK
FRAME
ends 01all the plecesso the lengths are 214"
SIDE
f-....
longer ((rom long-point to longpoin!) than
Co
the case. Now glue the miters together to
(oml the frame, (Hold Ihe pieces on a Oal
SPUNtD
~
surface untll the gllle sets.)
JOINT
K1Ch'Jj(),\RII,The rest oflhe base consists
/~~
of" kickboard front (0). back (also 0).
and two side'S (P). see rig. g, Ailer cutting
\
these pieces to width. miter both ends of
,
,,"
each piece so the length o( each is ~"
KlCKBOARD ~
FRONT/BA.CK
KlCKBOARD
.lIuriler than the bullnose frame.
CUT SPUN( TO m KtR.f
StDE
Kf:RFI!t SI'I1."E. To keep the miters aligned
while clamping. cut a kerf in each miter.
and cut a spline 10 fitl'3ch kerf. see 1"111.
!Ie.
10
o.
,\S.~f.)18I.Y.After the joints are cut. giue
tbe kickboard frame together, Then center
and glue the base frame to the top of the
@
kickboard.see fiR. 9.
TOP
Shop NOle:There 'sa trick tocentering the
baseframeoverthe kickboard framewith an
equal amount oj overhang all around. FirsL NOTE:
In" COVEdraw a centerline On all four pieces of each GLUf(.C)VI
MOI,DING1N
In
frame, see Fig. 9. Thcn simply line up all the !'\ACt AFl'R
\
ROUT.UllNOSfmarks and clamp the assembly in this posi- TOP '$ SCJl EWED
ON TOP
TOCASl
tion while the glue dries,
"ASF. TO CASE. To attach the base asCl.ATb. CROSS SEGnON
sembly to the cabinet casco drill shank holes
through the b3SC"(ramI', see Fig. 9a
No" turmhccaseupsidcdcwnundceruer
the base frame on the ease. Then mark the
100"3UOnoflhepilul holes through tile shank
holes, Finally, drill the pilot holes and screw
the base tv tll~
cabinet.
CAalNEtTOP
ClAT
~
To complete the cabinet, l started work on
COVE
the solid-weed lop (Q). Uegin by edge-glu- MOLDING
ing enough ~." stock to make a blank IS
\IT,\CHIDP. To fasten the lOP 10 the eabi- Now enlaf)(e the shank holesin the cleats 10
wide and 22" lonRMer the gluedties. plane
the blank flat and trim iI2\1." larger than the net, ) first glued a pair of cleat...inside the let the lOp move with changes in humidily.
case.see Figs.IOaJld lOb.Next, with the top Then screw (d()n'Lglu~) the top inplace.
topoCthe case. SC'eFill. 10.
MOUlIN!;. To dressupthecabinet.Iglued
ROI'T El>CES,Next. rout the same bull- lying on the bench and the case posnioned
cove
molding strips (R) around the case
nose profile On all four edges as on the base on it upsidedown.centerthe lOPon thecase.
Then drill screw holes through the cleats where ir~joined IQthe base and the lOP, see
frame - bUI (or the lop. the \4" round-over
into the uadcrside of the lOp.see Fig. lOb. ('igs. 10 WId lOa.
is on the "I'percdge.

l--,7:."

MIT" 1~'1"

y~\

to

Woodsmith

No. 76

DRAWERS
Wbeo the molding
strips are in place, thi!
last thing before the
cabinel is complete is

11

G.

fOPDRAWU

DRAWl-A(C'"

MACHINl-CUf _
fltOHT
'h- OOVEtAll5
""\.

(MAl<tONlJ

10make the drawers,

IlRAWER PARTS.

{k'gin by rutting the

drawer fronts (S.

\V) from :v." stock so
they're V~
smaller in both dimensions than
the drawer openings . see Fig. 11.
Next. cut rhe dmw e r backs (f. X) 10 the
same dimensions as the fronts. bUI irom l".
llIick siock, (I used poplar (or the drawer
sides and backs.) Then cut the drawer
sides (U. V) Cromthe same Y.!" stock. CUI
the drawer sides to Ihe same width as the
Cron"'. and 10a uniform length of 1211,".
JOL\'ERY. Once all the drawer pieces are
cuI 10 size. r01i1 half-blind dovetail jolnts on
each comer. SI.'<? ''-!g. 113. (For more lnformarion on routing halt-blind dovetails, see 5"'"
\Vr;od~milhNo. 58).

along the lower inside

edge of each drawer piece as a channel 10
hold the drawer bottoms, see fig. 11a.
DRAWERB01TOMS. Now cut the plywood
Next. CUI grooves

US( SANDING

.lOCK TO
SOlIAJtI UP

.tPfe'

~SHOUlJ)(-../

as

-...::::::

1
"SIDE
L <,~<!.J

~.'<'

' --........_

"","

draweroottoms(V,Zllofilinthegrooves

in the bottom of the drawers,

Shop Note: Before assembling the
drawers, cut a notch centered OD the bottom
edge of each drawer back. see fig. II. This
notch lets the drawer slide QVCf" a drawer
SLOPthat's added later.see fig. 12.
IL\ISE TilE PAXEl.S.To complete the
drnwer fronts, I made chamfer <'UISaround

'

80TTOM

..........._~/

...

N01t:CENmNOTCH

'\

~-~~Wt~.~.~
..~c:xs~_..:::=========:::::~
OHIoOTTOMOf

~~~2'

create the effect of u raised chamfered, drill holes for the drawer pulls.
panel. see Fig. lib. (See trood"",UII No. 53 see l="ig.13. Thedrawerpullsarecemereden
for information on making raised panel the drawer fronts,
ASSE~tRL\"Now glue the drawers up
drawer fronts.)
'Vilen the drawer fronts have been square with the plywood bottoms in place,
the edges

10

DRAWER STOPS AND HARDWARE

Aner the drawers have been assembled.
there are a fcwdClailSlhal remain before the
niRll1stand is complete.
GllDF. STRIPS.To help the drawers slide
more smoothly, I added oylon glide strips 10
tho drawer runners. see fillS. 12 and 13.
These s.trips raise the drawers off the facillg
strips and "reate a continuous. evenlyspaced
gap around the drawerfront,
DRA\\'IISTOI'!;. Then.tokeepthefrontsof
ihe closed drawers flush with the cabinet

.....1 ONOAUGI'

12

.lOCK .,AT"'"
IDGIOf

~u'g:'

"

l--

~.!.-

_WtlfRONT

13

ST1U~'
-:::;::::::::::;:::;;~~.f'
1'--.-..,./
I::: . - ...~".:.OWf

atOSSSECTION
,"",WEIt_

OUWIlI

PtIU"

"<; , r~-I
J.,,::;;!,=- .

I..... SHANK HOU

f'
i;;~~rle~t3"LOHG~~':O

kJr~-;;;ii2~:-~ (1....::--.':"--..._....... ~

yI-

OAUO<

y.

AND

,;~

,:'

OJtAWO

s," COUNJu:e-Olf

'RONT

$TO.

mG(

1." O(EP

or

';~;'-...;;~ST~"~.~~~~~

'-. ~

01.11

'ACING ' ,..,.~~~.

~1~~1o...;'';~~~~
-...~

each
frontrail.see
rig.a 12.
facinR
strips. I glued
drawer stop pad 10 ~~"'~OC~~K!!:_~::~ 11................._<,
'lute: Sju: these pads smaller than the
nOlchonlhebottomofthedrawerbackso
14
l".
'1,'1.' ,:.' ,
the drawers can be slid into their opeJ1ings.
-~
TtlR.VBt'TONS. Then. 10 prevent lite
'\ ';d--.i.!k,
CUAT
drawers Crambeinll' pulled all the way oUlI
1"'T'---..l!~~~~~--=--"",--7-;,,:;;;,P
screwed rurnbuttons 10 the inside of the
front rails. see Fig. 14.
SCREW Pl.ASl1C 'MIN
FINISH. Tccomplete tile proj~",l.lfinished
.UTTON
(t:N1tl!lI>
the entlre nigbl$tand with Genernl finishes
T~S:;IP ~~~laCthel1
anfid.RIIl}d'al
rlllish.
th
\.!!
rtn,u y. ner e nos I nes, 0I0llJlI c
~.
drawer pulls onto the drawer fronts,

v ~.

~~"~-;O;LI~l>~<
$I1UP~~

~/.r

,,)

...:l~;;,:"",,,";'v.i/

T
TUII1".UTTON
TO ItlUASEOlAWlk

.ee

'
:
"(~'
~
OS~S;'
~
.~ONT;;;"":l~=~f::=~~
,_j~i::--l
~==;;~
'"tI

No. 76

WocJd..m'th

II

PROJECT

WEEKEND

Desk Picture Frames

A

t first. it may seem like malting these

picture frames is a rather involved
process. It looks like there's a lot of fitting
Ihin little SQuares of veneer in perfect
position on the front or the ftnmes. But it's
not that difficult
The "veneer" is actlJa1ly a :V."thkk piece
ofwood tbat'sglucQ to the fronl Mlhe 611nw
and then trimmed offto leave only ~.I'l"thickness. And the design is routed through the
veneer just deep ('nough so Illl' contrasting
wood (thl' frame i!SCIJ)shows through, (For
variations on the basic design, see page 15.)
COltNER JOI~"I'S. There's something else
different about these I'nunes-they're 110t
joined with miter joints. Instead I used astub
tenon and groove jOinl, see ~1g.1.
The groove serves a double purpose, In
addition to holding the tenon at the corners
it also holds the picture, glass, and backing,
And by leaving access at the bottom ofthe
frame, the picture can be easily changed.

lASE FUME
Thefirst thingto decide is the size photo you
want to frame, All the measurements shown
he re are for a 5" x 7" phuto. see Fig. I.
Begin work on the base frame by resawing a 32"loug piece of stock to ~" thick.
Then rip il I" wide.
GROOVE. Once the workpiece is cut to
size.the next step is to CUIthe groove [or the
stub tenon and groove joinL To allow for the
correct setback on the front of the frame
after the top layer of wood is added. tlu..
groove is CUI off-cenleJ' on tile thickness of

CUT"~.WlDt
GROOVE AlONG
fHt- ~Gl'M Of

1ltf fRAMt: StocK

the workpiece (I-t" back from the rronl face).

Icutthe groeve!ift6'wide.1ltisaccomm(,
dales the averagethickness of glass ~12).
oPlional mat. photo, and I-t'-lhick backing.
To CUI the groove on the table saw, adjust
the dado blade to tOUI \I,"o(Icep. see Fig. 2.
Now pial" the firm! face (If the workpiece
against the rip fence and cut the groove.
FRAME rlt;CI'S Once the I\TOOVeis cui in
the workpiece. the four pieces of the frame
can becut to length. see F-rg.1.Cut IWOsides
(A) 8~" long. and the top (B) and bouom
(C) pieces each r," 10nR.
sruHTF.NOI<~. 11,e nCllt step is 10 cut the
stub tenons on the ('J1d~of the lOPand bOI'
10mpieces 10fit the ,.,-oove.Since the groove
is off-center, the tenons are Oil of{-c:enlt..:fon

see Fig. 3.
To cut the tenon shoulders on the/a., of

the thickness

10 match.

each piece, you'll need 10cut a W'-deep rabbet, sceStepl in ~-lg.3.i\l1dthen to complete
the tenons, cut a tll"-dcep rabbet on the
back side. see Step 2.

11

.-, ...

,.

(if
BOTTOM

3 11

,I

STEP 1

.L.

.-

.-_-

AU)CIUAlty

~.'

ltNe~

r-

'r1

CUf\' ....... OO
IAC[ SID! OF tACH PIl(

Woodsmim

, .. -A,Ul(Il!AltY

~mp2

FENCl

~.'
._MCI

i~'OItI(I'tlc.

....

.
cut ~ RAaa.tf
ON 8:ACK Ofo'(ACff 'PSfC'

If ~.I

..

.,

I:"

No. 76

RESAW aorro

PIECE. The glass. picture.

and backing slide OUI through the bottom oi

the frame, To create the opening. the frame
bottom piece has 10 be resawn inlwo.
To do this. SCIthe rip fence ~6 from the
blade, sec Fig. 4. Next place thejroll( face
of the piece againsllhe fence and resaw the
piece in two. The ~6"lhick piece is the
finished Irame bouom (C). But save the
waste piece, see Fig. 4n. (Rcsaw it, if necessary. to l6" thick, It wiD be glued to the
oocking board as a backing Sltip later.)
FRAMEASSEMBLY.Once all the pieces arc
CUI, glue and clamp the frame together, see
Fig. 5. To hold tile bottom piece flush with
the frame face until the glue dries. I eurremporary spacers and slipped them into the
grooves wilh the tenons, see Fig. Sa.

a.

IACt(ING

SlIt..

'RAMi FACt

a.

DOWN

r" lfMPORARY

SP"CO

1'OPLAYER

Afler tile base frame is assembled. you can

glue on lhe top layer 01 contrasting wood.
You could glue on a ~"-1hick layer, but
there's an easier way. I glued on a thicker
layer ~.) and then resawed most ofit leaving a .l:I"-thick layer.
Start by gluing on the lOp layer in (our
pieces: the two sides (E) arc each 8Yz" long.
And the top and bottom pieces (F) arc
each 4~" long. see Fig. 6. (There's a variation oflhis thaI has a different wood glued to
the comers. refer [0 Design #3 on page 15.)
FINAl. nUCKI<ESS. When the glue is dry.
uim the extra thickness offthe lOP layer in
two passes. First, set the rip fence :\I." from
the blade. and hold the back 01 the frame
against the lence to make a pass on all four
trame pieces. sec Fig. 7. Next, move the
fence slighlly to leave the lOPlayer ~t'thick
and skim the remalning steck off all pieces.
ROt "SC11J E PATI'ERN. Next. rout the pattern into the frame face, set' Fig. 8. J used a
V-groove bit mounted in the router table,
Begin by routing the outside edge of the
frame. To do this. set the fence so the point
of the bit is aligned nush y,ith the face 01the
fence, see Slep 1. in Fig. Sa.
Next. reposition the fence so the poiru 01
the bit aligns with the i>lMe edge 01 the
frame. see Step 2. Now rout these grooves so
they intersect al the inside comers of the
frame opening, see photo below.

lNSUJ

nuac S'AClas

I ....

fRONT FAa

IN GROOVE WHlI,E
OWING UP 'lAME

a.

GWE10P
lAYfft PltCfS
TO lASE fRA.M!

ENDS

Q.

SUOE

'aAMt

TOP

LAn,

WAS'll

a.
I1NCt

PASS

f'AAM[

an 'IlOH.

No. 76

fRAMI

ffNCf

lACK ALONG

WTT T~ LAYER
PlEas TOGnKlR

OVER

RIGHT TO

Woodsmitb

V-GROOvt an
CHAMFl.$
OUTSiOE

(DGUOf .......

2
1--1

AUGN IJTwmt
LNSIDEfOOlS
Of FRA#f\f

FRAME fACE

un

l3

BACKING BOARD AND STAND

The last step inconstructing a picture frame
9
is to make the badting board and 'lalld. The
BACKING
backing board holds the photo and glass in
the [mm~. And the .lalld is a wedg e-shaped
80ARO
-..._
block screwed to the back of the backing
board. see Flg.9.
BAt:Kl:SGBOARD.The backing board
(G) can be made of any still !1Ithickmat<~
rial. such as Masorute or plywood. CUI the
board to ..idth to filthe WOOV~
in the frame.
(Mill. measured 5".) A. for length. rut the
board to til from the tOP of the groove 10Ihe
bottom efthe frame (mOO).
STAND
srAND. Next, cut the wedgC-$haped block
e,
for the stand (H) from a ~"4hick piece of .
stock (10match the frame) on the band saw.
see Fig, 10.TIteDslightly reuiid the top end
with a sander. see fig. 93.
&\CIQ.~GSTRJP.Now cut a notch in the
bottom of the long edge of the stand 10accommodatethe Mekinl! snip (0) Ihat was
CUI off the bouom frame piece earlier. l;('t'
Fig. 9. Use Oneend otthe strip as a template
to indicate the stock to be removed for the
notch. see Fig. II.
The next step is 10glue the backing strip
onto the backing board.see Fig. 9. It fills in
the area between the two sidesofthe frame.
Finally. screw the stand to the backing
board. S('C Fig.9.Note: Idid'flglu~thestand
tothe backing board. This way. ifI ever want
10 hang the frame on the wall. it's simply a
maaer of unscrewing the stand.

r- ..
__

CI'T

'OUNO POINT
wmt-SANOnt

lACKING

SOUO
OWl IACKlNG snuP
Fl.U$N W'I'm lOTTO""
Of aACXfNG .IOAR.D

_@
'.O(JNG

7'3....

STRIP

6"

SlIoNO

"".
HOrCH fOACCO~.Tl
IACI(lNO STlfP~$(' fIG. I'

DRAW UHE AROUNO

Sl'IJPt 1lftN ltlMOvt
WASTIINSIOE

11

UNf ......

00' -

POSmON

STltJP AT lIonOM

Of LONG IOGf

FINISH AND ASSEMBLY

Once the backinK board and stand are aY
sembled, you can appl, a fini.h to all the
frame parts. I sprayed on IWO coals of clear
satin polyurethane. Once the finish is dry.
the contents can be inserted in the frame.
GlASS.Several things go in Ihe frame
along with the phnto. The firsl is the glass. I
used a standard thickness (.I'd') piece of
glass thai measured 5" x 7". But you could
use a piece of W' Plexiglas Slide the I(laSs
through the bottom or the frame so it drops
into place behind the frame face, see Fig. 12.
~'ATA.~nl'IICYfO. [f you'reusing a mar. it
I(""S into the frame next, Pre-cut mats are
often available at frame sheps and art supplr
stores in a variel), of colors, \11th the mal in
place over the R1a:;s.slide the pholo inlo Ihe
frame. face down on the mal. '""C Fig. l2.
BACKINC UO.<\IU). Finally. slide the backing board (C) intO the grooves in the side
pieces. see Fig. 13. l'ush it all the way in.
FIIJ..ERS.Depending on the thickness of
the glass and the mat ),OU use, the contents
of the frame mlght be 100loose. If this is the
case. remove the backing board and insert
one or more pieces of cardboard or beavy
paper as filler on lap of the photo. Then slid,'
tbe backing board back in place.

14

12

FIRST: SUDEows INtO

FRAMEOPINtNG

CI.

'HOTO

PH010

MAT

suo<

\.'):t"TKICK

SECOND:

(0VI1O...... ) "'loT
AND II'MOTO WTO htAMl

13

TO KOLO (ONTENfS IN 'RAM..

SUD( BACKING &OME)

.........

FRONT0'

GI.ASS

CI.

INTO GR.OOVlo

SlANt>

-=....

UoCK1NGSTaJP@
IlACKJN.GaoAlD

MAT
I'UMI
GlASS

fUMfACf

No. 76

.)

DESIGN #2
.This frame is a slight variation

of the bask design shown on the

bottom of page 13. The differ
ence is thaLan additional groove
i, routed in each face of the
frame LO create four small
squares at each corner,
To make this design. first
complete the frame as shown on
page 13.Then re-position the y.
groove bit so the point is
centered on the frame side.
CEl\'1"RmEBIT.

TIw most tm-

Thi. simpt voriation oJ Ihe portant thing about thisdesigu is

ba.ic fNJ)II~ d~siJ1lIi.mll<i<o/>y toget the bit exactlycenmrcd on
NJt,till.y (lll ad~f;tlrrPl(l1grool'('
the width of the frame. see Fig.
lao To do tbis. start with a V"'I)'
C'cntcN'(1 (}i' Mtll.!rn}'lf piece.

C1It AOI>I11ONAI.
GROOVi UNTUlD
ONu.cH

a.

_PIta

HA.lI1H( WIDTH

01 FRAME Pf<E

shallow CIII.and then check the groove (to match the other
position of the bit to be sure it's t,'Toovesin the frame).
Finally. rout the center groove
centered. Now. re-adjust the
heightoflhebiuocula W'.cJl'CP across all four frame faces.

DESIGN #3

71(1trdti all

(,,1NI

n.r(,p)lf

to !jQHr

[lUI"'!, gl".I"sqlltl rr block. of

a scr(f)ld controsli1fY frvJl~1f)"t(J

the rtJr11~'rxoftJI~

iKJ}tf'fi'fl

",

.In this variatlon.two contrasting woods are glut'd 10 the base 2

frame. rather than one. The
routed design. however, is the
same as that shown on page 13.
To make this design. first CUI
four 1'14~quare pieces of con-trastingwood for the comers of
the LOp layer. Then cut the other
1~SOUARI
pieces of the tOP layer from a GlU
&lOCKS INTO
diiferent wood. For the basic
ACHCOINat
frame that holds a 5" x 7" photo.
make Ih~ top and the bottom
pieces 4 yz" long and the sidr frame wilh Ihe square pieces in
the corners. All the pieces
pieces 6W'long.
GI...l E SQl'ARES IN C()K..~f:HS. should butt UI' againsl each
Now glue the pieces 10 the base other, see Fig. 2.

GWIE ON \~. TOP

LAYlR AHOAISAWTO
LIA VI "", nutKNUS

Once the glue is dl')'. resaw

the frame 10 thickness. Then
rout the same pattern shown on
page 13on the router table.

DESIGN #4
Start witb the completed
To make the circles in the
comersquares.l used. plug cut- frame shown on page 13.TOIlH

ter and a countersink. The coun- the circles centered in the

tersink is one made by \V. LFul corner squares. I used a fence
and SlOp block on the drill press
ler (No. C8countersink).It'sthe
type thai fil. around a dnll bit. to align the frame. sec Fig. 3.
(For source'S, see page 31.)
To do this. mount a lttG"dnll
bil in the chuck and aUgn the
pointof the bit with ihecenterof
one of the squares. Next. move
Ihe fence and SlOP block against
the frruneund damp them 10 th~
drill press table, see Fig.3.
PU c; (ITn'ER. Now. to meke
the l"rge circle. plunge a lo:!"
plug curter into the veneer jusl
deep enough for the base fromto
to show through. see Fig. 01.
COt)~"'HSI.sK. Next. replace
the plugcuuerwiUI the countersink. see rig. 5. Retract the drill
Tltl' c;rclfR ,'l th i rQ"'lle~ bit Into thecountcrsink so the bit
1jtlt(or(1 (lrt' 111IJde Ur;JfllftYJ hits
will not enter the wood. Now
11011
migitl "ot ft;t'pecl- a plug make a cuuhcsame depthasthe
cutter aJld (I C(}U)tff>nftllk.
plug cutter circle.

No. 76

USE SMAU DRILL IrT AS A

(WID( 10

aNn.

CORNER SQUAU

4
CUT LAttGl
ClR<LEWfTH
1,,- PWO currER

W oodsnu rh

IIfTAACf

OIlJU.
I--..JOJJ'NTO
COUNTtrtStNK

CUTSMAll. CtRCt.<
WJtH CQUNtfRSf,.,X

15

SOME

TIPS

FRO

SHOP

OUR

Shop Notes

r
(

DRILL PRESS ANGLE GAUGE

Drillingangltd holesonadrill
press is a Straightforward matter - if your drill press table
tilts. (If your table doesn't tilt,
see the Shop Note below.) I~ut
even if the table 0011 be tilted.
you may have a problem setting
the table at jUla the right angle:
When we WI<fC building the
Shop $1001 for this issue (see
page 18). we needed to drill
holes at an exact angle. Otherwiscallihedrillcd parts wouldn't
line up for assembly. But I've
never been comfortable relying
on the angle indicator that's
built-in 10 the drill press table.
So. to sel the driD press table
at just the right angle. I made a
simple gauge using my table saw
miter gauge. (I'm more corntonable with its aocuracy.)
MAKE G:\\lG.To make a drill
press angle gaug~. seuhc miter
gauge on your table saw 10 the
desired drilling angle. Then. cui

a 4"-10118angled block off one

end of a scrap piece, see Fig. I.
CE~iER T,\BI.. Before you
(lID uSE'this gauge. you'll Deed 10
tine up the drill press table with
the centerpoint of the chuck. If
these aren't in alignment 10
begin with. you11end updnlling
the holes at a compound angle.
To align the table 10 the
chuck, fil"$l insert a long drill bit

or a Slraighl rod into the chuck.

see Fig. 2. Next. loosen the
clamp that hold. the table 10 lb.
drill PI'<'S>column, Now. pesition the table so the bit l"
centered over the center hole in
the table and re-tighten me
column clamp.
TII.TT,\Jll. To usc Ihe gauge,
set itonthe tablewith the angled
side againsllh~ biL Then loosen

the bolt (or clamp) that allows

the table to be tilled. and tilt the
table so the edge of your angle
gauge buus up against the side
of the bit. see rig 2. Now lock

the table in this position.

Note' Before you begin
dnllillg. it's a good idea 10check
me angte once more. just to
make sure the table didn't move
when you tighk'lled the clamp.

I.v -ii

FIRST:
AlJl)N

en W'fTM

(INTER 01 fAet.

......
u

0...,..

-t'~~
..

t>

\.
.........

SECOND:
nlTT,ullA,NO
nGHftN WH(N

en: JS.N
AUGN#ltENf
WmtGUiO(

To uSC
the platloml. position it on the
drill press table M the edge of
the platform is paralte! to the
edge of the table, see Fig. 2. (If
your table b round. orienl the
platform pcr~"d;r"lnr' 10 an
CE.'''TEK TABLE. Before you
can use the plalIorm. ),oul1 need imaginary line [rom !he column
to center the table in relation 10 IhroURhwebi!.) Thenclampthe
the chuck. (For infommtion on platform 10 th~ drill press table,
Note: If you own a small drill
how to do this, see the Shop
press
and need 10 drill angled
N{)tcabove.'

Then glue and screw 0",se

wedges to a scrap piece of ply
\\'000. No'''' serewa second Pl('''C4!
of plywOodto this assembly as a
platlorm for clamping the jil! to
the drill press table. see Fig. J.

r-osmox

ptATJORM

~Ot-TOSlDEFOJ!;
SMA-UtA: WORK9fEC($

PtA11'ORM.

holes in an oversize workpiece

Oike Ihe seal uf the Shop Stool
on page 18). you can increase
your drilling capacity by posilioning the platform differently.
To do U.is. position the pial'
form so il faces [ronllcrback on
the drill press table. see ~iJ(.3.
Then. before you clamp il in
place. check to make sure the
edl1es arc prop<'riy oriented in
relation to the table.

3
POSITION Pt.ATfORM
fRONTY04A(K fotl

UJtO(1t WOA.Kmas

16

DRILL PRESS ANGLED PLATFORM

.liow doyou drill angled holes
with a drill press if the table
duesn'llilt? Simple - you build
an auxiliary table 10tilt the workpiece, refer to Fig. 2.
A.>;GlJill pI.Xn''ORM. To build
an angled plntiorrn. start by cutting a pair of matching wedges
[rom scrap SOIhe mitered angle
of tbe wedges matches {he
desired angle of the holes you
need 10 drill. see Fig. J.

.)

WooJsmith

No. 76


I
(

ROUIING INSIDE CHAMFERS

A fmnll' and panel unit looks
mor..lini~hldifIJ,linsideedgcs

you can use a V"scr()(.v,n,ult'rbil

uniform distance from the frame

edge, The guide also stops the

of Ih,'

Instead, Sine,' a Vgrtlov(' bit

no PUOIbearing. Ih,' pond can't
interfere. Then. 10 substitute (or
tht' pilol bcariJ1J! 11.1I:h -hopbuill edge j(Uide 10 Ihe rout er.
An edg~ guide doe s 1"0
tIting>. FiN. il k.~'])SIhe bil a

router a uniform distance (rom

the comers (.' for thisj(Uidt'l
To make the edge guide, fil"l ,.'"ide I<1lhe basco
replace the original router base
Th"n turn on the router and
with one made (rom I," \Ia rai'C the bit unlil enough is exsonite, see rig. 1. Then, (or the ","l-d 10cut a narrow chamfer
the guide itself; cut an()lher ak>og!h, edge of the frame.

Irame

nrc Iil(hlly
chamfered Uik~ on the Night
Smnd, P3lIC 6), RUI routing.
chamfer on the", edge. is a
problt-III if IIw unit i'assembkd
- Ih ....pand inll"rleres "ith the

pilot bc3rin~ on a chamfer bit.

To lIel around Ihi~ problem

h.,

a.

Of

.1

AUG>DGt

Ili....ce of \1.0" Ma.ooilc 1\'," wide

by about :1" lOOK. see Fig. I.
Ali"",tlw lodge of the j(Uide will.
lh,' c('nll'rof the bil and glue the

TO

GUll)(

ItOUI1>ICI

aNn. Of' '"

'"f..

"" .. <:nON

.....DGl GUIDI

aOU1lHO

_;._

y.o4tOC)V(

)-

,OU...

&IT

STA.'

./

IIOIItElt

D4$TAN(

-/ (DOl GUIDI

I'- ~
$lOP

')

OlRlcnOH

wtOnt Of lOOt OUiOIontltMtNts

STAll AND STOfi POINTS or CHAMfta

I1ASt

IRIMMING IHROUGH IENONS

AlI"r a""mblinJl the Shop
51001(,hollo" nn pagl." 18).1",,,,,
(ac-ed with the pn.blem of tnmlIIing Ih., ,rnh. of the protruding
wnon, flush with the ..cal and
the 1e'S!<. "'. ~"jj{.I.

Th~ reason Ihi";'ltkkyis

that

none or Ih~ tenons are trimmed

O",h 10allu' ~urlace. So Ilw procedure I fc.und to be most accurate j, to trim the tenons flush in
tour "1f"J)~1!..jnJothalld tool:$..
ROll.II TRI\I.Thl' 6",1 >lep is
10 rou~h'lrim Ihl' ....
nd, or the
tenon' ".!h a hand '_'''. Iea-ing
aboul V,," protruding. see rlj1. I.
Thi' k"3'....I''''' II) be chiseled.
CIII,fL FlI 'II. Once the
l('nJ:t..~lpart of the tenon ha~

"uaighl scraperwork- fin,' hen-, sun- to the ten )0, not the surthe 1001exit> Itll" other 'ide of
"""0 5,\IOOTR.The final 'Iell roulldin~ surface. An electric
!he tenon. Abo, 10 prevent the is 10 sand the surface 01 the- '3IUl<-f.
a I:orJter smding 3I'l'3.
chisel from ).'OUI:101[
Inlo Ih. workpiece smooth. Astain. if, would reduce the surroundinl!
111M.' qukkl}
tenon itself, hlllet Ih,' "hi""l wilh be<11Odo this by hand. not with (rill" ~"min)
thnn Ih, (end groin) tenon, This
Q bell or pad sander, I used n
Ihe bevel side 1/"11''',
llANO SCRJ\I'~. Aft"r Ih.
sanding block made or scrap w()ukl re-uh in a "dished" area
around Ihe tenon -not'lenon
tenons are chi...,I<'" Ol"h, Itwy wood wrapped with sandpaper,
can be scraped. 'nw ;l0pc."1I1Ih.
Using. sanding block Ie" you Ih:Ol', pt'rfcclly flush wilh the
seat is gradual t'nc)ut(h Illal .l beuer direct the 'l3lldi~ pre," surrounding surface.
\Ole: Don'l "hi""1 '" far lilal

"';u,

",mce

FIRST:
ItOOGH-TtIM

SECOND:

MOST Of ttNOH

CU1 RUSfot WITH

HAHDCHIUl

wrnt aACX SAW

-.

..r

ri3

2
CHISU TOWARD CLHn.
ASYOUWORlC

...--

bt-'t"nn'll10\t:d, th(>n~t '!'tepi~lo

chop ,''''ay Ih~ resl wilh achis.-L

To pre,enl j{ouginjt Ihe adjoining "llrfact work your W3)'
around Ihe trnnn, chiseling
loward Ih,' ,cnl~r. see Fig. 2.

O,

Nil. 76

l..

17

SHOP

PROJECT

Shop Stool
What's the most intimidating part about building a stooL?All the angles.
But locating and drilling holes at an angle doesn't have to be difficult.
That is, if you use the right technique - and jigs.

(>cp-l1IIY.
Steve. our shop manager.
showed up in my office with a request,
"l think it'sabout time 10 retire theold mew
shop stools and gel some newencs,"
"Okay: I said, "but how about trying to

build some ourselves." t was thinking that

I'"" always wanted 10 work on a way 10 hollow out the seallor a stool.
Sieve look up the challenge. Wilhin a
couple days, he and KeD(our designer). had
a protolype $1001.(And even talked me into
helping them make the rcst ot the SIOOIs.)
JIGS. As expected. the challenging part
was designing rhe jig for scooping out the
seat - without using a lathe. It's all done
with the routerriding on aeouple of runners.
We've done a separate article about making
and using this jig, SI<e page 22.
1Vt:also had to figure oul a way to lay out
and drill the angled holes ror the legs. So we
came up wilh some simple jigs 10 get around
these problems,
One or the jigs ensures that the hole" are
drilled at the correct location and angle.
Then there's a neal way to draw lines
centered un the legs for the stretcher holes,
nssw nerr. We wanted the stool to be
strong - so it's buill with wedged mortise
and tenon joints. NOI only are these joints
incredibly slTOng,the wedges are exposed.
sotheylookgoodtoo. (Andilgave me agood

excuse

10 try

another technique. see sepa-

rate artklt> on page 24.)

To make sure this stool holds up as lonll
as the old metal ones, we used solid oak
throughoUL (For sources or oak dowels. see
page 31.) Then a contrasting wood (walnut)
is used toacc,ntlhc wedged tenons,

MATERIALS
OVERAll DIMENSIONS: 14'W.

26'H

'.x '4 CliO

A Soot(I)

11

8 LeQ${4)
C IJpperSltetI'IeB(2)

Iv..' dowel' 26'1.1

Jill' dOwel 1211,.

D Loy/a<S'retchets (2) ~. dowel- 12'J.
E Wedges (12)
"1s<"/.rQ"
2 Bd. FI ofl Vi.. fh4c:kRed Ook

.) .

(1) "'"' of General FInIsh Seatac'"

(I) PInt of

18

General FIlW\ ArmRSeaI

W oodsm irh

No. 76

SEAT
I~
",ork on tbe ,1001 by bwlding tilt (
seat It 'tan'oula'a"luarebLmkand
IMn
can bt cut or turned to a perfect cin:1~
'~.\T
To01.'11<e the _1 (A). "IlItl
br IIluinll up enough 111.;"-thick stock 10
mak,' a IS""quare blank. Then trim the
blank 101111" x I~I~', ...... Hg. L

"'A'''-

SEAT

Now drdw a pair of diagonal line on b,,//I

sid(', 01 1111'blank, see rig.!. The interseetion ()flh~<,('Ii"," will locate acenterpclotou
Ilwblank (I(lr culling the 14"-diamrtrr
circle) nnd h,'lp in laying OUIthe position 01
III!' four "'!:).ol," M,nk the position 01each
hok- lI,;i' I",m th, centerpoint 00 the lup
lace lOrIh,' blank. -ee Flit. I
Aft~rthr holt...an' t..idoull"'torlum the
"'.ll round ~'olc'll)ou''''lumingthe;;ea1
on ,"II ....you <""also'<O()pout-~ce.,.
kr and ,ha"" the edges, refer to Fig. ~ )
tH'IIU"''' On.;etlw seat iseut round. the
hole, can be drilled for the I<s:s. (To make
Ih. ,1001 as stable as possible, the legs are

uo

SEAT

"0

'

...

~~

~
~

7'

...

....

\;

tS;

:0,
LOWER

UPPER

STRETCHER

STltETCHER

....
TI' TT\lII.. , !lw n.xt"episloliltyourdrill

pres<Iabk to 10'. NOlc,UYOlirtabledoesn'l

tilt, you can olBk,'a plat/oml lotill your workpi,'Ce, (For more on drilling angled holes.

"'* ShUI>Note', olll>age 16.)

llC'lJ<;ndil.'U\ar10;. line through the bit and

Ihe cenu-r of 1111'drill press column. And
clamp lit" jig 10111l'wbl" ,0 Ihe bit i$II"(,,,'I1/
over """ of tl u- k'~ layout holes, see fiR 3.
Now drill the fnur holes, rotating the work-

IlRiU 11<)....,.. '(.~ J>lace the sear fac e-u p piece (no' till' jig) bll,,('('n drilling.
on m(' pin III Ihe indexlng jig and rot.31e it
SIL-\,PI-"'h.\T \ill'r all Iour holt's: art'
until a d;'lIIun,d hne on th~-eat lines up ..ith drilled.the seal can ", .....moved from meM
th.. t'llll,-rlin" un Ih" JI~.Here's the tricky andRi'cnihfinal'hapo'
FiN.I.cooPl'<loul
part- JlO"t,u,ti,,~ jig on the tilled table. the >3' profil. u,iol1lh,' iiR shown on J)ag<'
u(lp<'r <'<II:~with a
rod" tho'. I II,' up the center of your drill 22 11)('n,rouod 0\
Il'"<''' tabl<>...ith Ih, poun of )'OUr 1 drill bit. \~.. round over bit and bevel the 10\\er t'dgl'
Th( II.aclJUM tilt' (r'lnt t"'d~e ur the jig SO itO, "';Ih a ~houc('nn..: bil ...,t" liJo: t

mi'

,..-,h,

'::=-_..J..
...:=~===~
..-

'1'Iay,'II outin all four direcucns.)

Thm' an' a number of stI'pS 10 dning this.

FiN. the (lPIlO...ng leg holes haee 10 be aligned
dm 1'111/ a('ros, from each other during
drillil1l1'lo(k,!hi" I madea"mplcjig.
INIW\INGJU:, '1", jig isjust a piece of pi),'
wood with R ~ dowcltharacrsasapieot pin
fur Ih., "'81. ,,'to ~-lIt,2. Ii,rolating the seat
on !hi, pin ynu ran aliWl the diagoD~ mark,
on lht "'t'ilt \\ uh a centertine on lht JIg. 111l~
ensorr-s tht holes ....iU be-drilled in a lineQlld
an ,d, ntilal di,lallct (mm th"CCI1l1'r
T I)bt able to II'" th"ji~. )'ou1l need 10fiN
drill. 1,-<1<'\'11 hole (or a pivot pin centered
unIh, IH1II".'olth,...."l....,(erIOrlg
~.A1so,
"""od th,' rd<'f\"k~ lines on the scat blank
d""Jllh, ,-d,:,,,,ol~blal1k.,,.... r~
3

LEG

.- I

..

INDEXING JIG

14,.

I.'

..

I.- PCVOT
.'

DOWn
(lA,M" SO

,1tONT (DOt tS
'I.,.,NDKUU.
TOllfANO

NOTE:

COlUMN

UXATt ClHttRPCMHT
ON TOPAND aonOM

TllJTA8t
10 '0'

SEATCIIOSS SECJlON

.. (~'

',' ~_

==_,~,!.=~~<===~~
~\. ,t,:=-:"'-"_)

~-:::t:~
.... :u............ .,___
__

, -==Y=4_

..... _

,DtAMm. UO HOU
ORtwO

Nil 76

AT 10 ANGU

t.*HOUfO'
-

PWOf PIN

or.......

19

LEGS/STRETCHERS
\Vilh the seal complete, work can begin on
th~ legs and stretchers, I used 111.."dowels
forme leJl$and 'is" dowffi1for the Sl!elhl'l'S.
(t'TTO LENG1H.Stan by cutting four 1<'118
(B) 10 length. _ Fig. 5. Next. round over
the bottom end of each teg (8) with a W
round-over bil in the router table.
The lenl,'lh of the =chcr'l
dependon
the angtp C)[ the legs. Since the legs are
''Playt'<l31 10' (thal's the angle of the holes
in thesean, cuuheupper stretchers (C) to
a length of 12110". and the lower stretchers
(0) loa length of l21~"'. sec rig. 5.
ROlISD TENONS. Once the legs and

stretchers are cui to length. the tenons can

be CUI on me lop ends of the legs and buIll
ends of me stretchers, (For nrore information on t"Otting wedgtll round tenons, see
the article on pages 24 and 25.)
Since the I \I," legs fit into I" holesand the
'111" stretchers fil inlo~" holes, I routed 1.11"
off the circumference of each to produce I"
and ~" round tenons, see Fig. 6. Note: Set
the router bit to cui Hhglltly less than \11"
deep. Then file or sand each tenon 10 fit its
rnortise. (Dowel sizes will vary.)
Nter the tenons are cut. Ihey can be
kerfcd 10 receive the wedges. I used a kerfing jig 10do Ihis. see Fig. 7.

111~:-=

LG~

,!------------- 26'''" -------------1

LOWER

STRETCHER
(,,>' oowtll

@....

...

1)1'."

-.;;;;s ,.
,...-----.\1

fs

1.......

cur

(ENTIRkfRf
OHOOWll

I.'

~R4-:7,~'"
_j

O.

KfJlflNO
JIG

--1\...
--.,

1--1'''--

is 10locale the holes (or the stretchers, This

could be the trickiest pan to thisprejeet, bUI
) simplified the task by making an assembly
Note: For appearance,
r rotatedthe legs so
platform (see Fig. 8). and a simple marking the kerfs on oPJlosil~legs are parallel to
each other, see Fig. Sa.
gauge (see Pig. 9).
MARKING {:AL'GE. The marking gauge
The assembly platform i.a plywood square
with (our holes. see l'ill". 8I~ are in- consists of a long guide bar. a spacer. and a
pencil, see Fig. 9. when (aped together they
serted in the holes to bold thesn auheccrrect
[arm astlfaligning marking gauge fordrawangle for marking the stretcher holes.

11,.

ing lines centered on the lega,The key is the

spacer - it's CUI so me pencillead hits the
center of the leg, sec Fig,9a

To draw a line centered on a leg. hold the

gauge so Ihe guide bar touches botll legs.
see Fig, 9. Then. move the gauge up and

down 10 make a mark.

a.

INSl:lTlfOS
INTO Sf AT
ANO SET IN
PlAt1CMtM

D\I:RJNG

snttTCHIlt

I.()CATESTRI'CIIER 1I0US. The next Slep

HOlDoowtL

16- ;It 10

I'lYWOOO

lW1stUGS so
t(lRFS ON OPPOSi:NG
LfG5 AA PAAAUL

AS.SM8lY

MAIUC c:tNTtRUNf

PLAf101tM

ON IHHO fACl.S
OF AU. fOUR UGS

CUT SPACtR SO PINal

l1AD IS CENRRlO ON UG

20

Woodsmith

No. 76

t)

LEGS ISTRETCHERS

CONTIN'UED

Once theceniered lines have been draw" on

the inside faces ofthe legs, the next step is 10
mark the locations (height) of the stretcher
holes on these lines. To prevent the holes
from weakening the legs. Ioffset the upper
and lower stretchers by 3". sec rig. lOa.
MARK STRCTUERROtES. To mark the
upper stretcher holes. measure 9" up (rom
the bottom of opposing legs and make a
mark. see Fig. lOa.Then. measure 6" up on
the remaining lines and rnake arnark to indicate the lower Streicher holes.

10

One thing before drilling the holes. The

location of the holes (9" and 6" up) are dependent on IWO things: the lingle of the leg
holes drilled in the seat, and the shoulder-toshoulder distance of the stretchers.
Since irs easy 10 be sligbtly off on one of
these measurements. il'sagood idea (0 hold
the stretchers alongside the legs and "eyeball" them 10sec if the stretchers align with
yourmarks, There'ssemeforgiveness, but if
they're way off. you may need to reposition
the srretcher holes.

DRIlL sntETC:IiR HOtES. To drill the

stretcher holes I finn mad. a simple jig 10
hold the round legs steady while drilling.
The jig is just a piece of scrap wood with a
'i!s".widegroove. see Fig. 113.
To use tlw jig.1irsttih the drill press table
to 7'. Then. clamp the jig LO the table so the
groove is centered under a W' bil and
square to the edge of the table, see ~1g. II.
Now drill a hoi. in each of the marked locations. Note: The tenoned end or each leg is
al the high end when drilUngthese holes,

11

0,

cmttll
DRIWNGJiG

ON &IT AND

MtASUA! UP BOM

CLAMPTOTAaU

80TrOMOfUG
TO lDCATli HOUS
fOR SntllCHW

o.

ASSEMBLY
Now that the holes are drilled. the stool can
be assembled. To do this, apply a SIDW"""t
ling glue 10 the upper and lower stretchers
and insert them into the legs. TIlen. set til.
legs back into the assembly platform and rolate each stretcher so that alltile kerfs in the
tenons line up horizontally, refer LaFig. 13.
Nexl apply slow-setting glue 10 Ihe leg
tenens, and push the seat omo the legs, see
Fig; 12. Noto: I used a rubber mallet 10 assist
these tenons into the mortises, working
around the seal until the tenons bottomed
OUl on their shoulders.
WEOOES. The next step is 10 cut and trim

12

ASSM.MI. STOOl. ',ARTS

13

I,.....

AND TAP l'OGETWU

<, .....

to SEAT TtHOft$:

aOTAT,snuTC~E~

r-~~~

so IRfS

UNf UP

~~~~~~~r
HORIIONTAUY

the wedges (or the tenons. For more on cut-

ting and fining wedges. see page 25.

To insert the wedges. 1i"'1 apply glue into
each ken. Then, drive. wedge imo each of
the tenons, see Fig. I~.
Now the tenons and wedges can be
trimmed Gush.Formoreon this process. see
ShopNotcs.pag~ 17.
FlNISII. To finish the stool. I wiped on a
coat of General inishes Sealaeell and IWO
coals of ArmR.&al

No. 76

\'(I,.x!smith

~l

JIG

&

FIXTURES

Seat Scooping Jig

H

do you make a

OPENINC.\\'hal makes

hardwood $1001
comfortable 10 gil on?
Traditionally, YOII migbl
scoop out Ill~ dished ,;e31
with. scorp or inshave.

this jig work so well are

OW

tWOfeatures Illat control

the workpiece.
First,
there's an opening {or the

seat blankonthe bottom 01

each rail. So when me

(Or you could smply add a

cu'lhion.)

For
shown
wanted
loured

workpiece is slid inlO the

jig (like puuing' bread in 3
loaSler) it can't rise up as

the Shop Stool

on pag~ 18. I
a '(}lifor~1,J!J<on>4:al Ibal'" nearly
impossible to gel with hand tools. Wbal I

came up with was a wa)' 10 shape the seal

using a router and a special ocoopingjig.
\Vilb titi~jig,llle router moves like apenduJum - but it's nOIsuspended from above.
Instead, the router rides "roller coaster"
rails over the workpiece, And Ibe workpiece
is rotated between cuts, see photos below.

it's being shaped,

Pl\'OT riN. Bul rhe most

RAil.PRQFlt. When you use this seal Importanl pan of this jig is the smaUestscoopingjil( (or anotherttke il foradillN"nI' the v." dowel the workpiece pivols around.
size sean the slt1)I' of IIIe profile on tilt'<ide The dowel Ie'" you rotate me workpiece
rails determines the shape o{the contoured between av"r1apping: cuts, and also keeps
seal The rlldill~of Ille profile controls how the seal blank {rom creeping around on the
deeply the router CUI$. And a replacement platform as )'OU rout,
So whaL you end up ..ith is a smoothlybase on Ihe router keeps il on me rails and
~'1111ingin astraightline (seedrawill!!"below) . contoured seal.

ROUTElt IIASE -

toun:RSASI

suo

8D'WUNJlAllS_

;~I
"re ~irl{J"(li/~ I,old tJI( SfeQi
Oil 1/,,, J~!I
.4 J'ttun'ttlhl, /,itl()l
pi" kr<'11I<it fra rrPrI'11I9. )'(II/1'P' "mId
Oi}f"'illg.~

bluI,k

el'IU"U

pm'I!1' ',"i It/rolll rot(lij"g lI8 flIt ),'OI'f.err-ut,'i.

BASE

CROSS
SECTION

Ridtl/lI alvlIg tlu: (,wl'cd 1'tlil~ofth, j'll.

tbr router ~)4t$j)lr/rt dtf'pi!l i "fu lIlt ('I."tt~r
o.ftl" blank tbnn 'h. <fig". TIlts produce
n smoath, J/t"jO'"111lY'C'O"tO/f}','d ~eat.

JIG BAS(-

PIVOT PIN _.,r

- ANGER.(CiSS

No. 16

MAKING THIIIG
Th ere nrc IWO things tbnl alfe<:l how you
make this seat scooping jig. 'n.e first is the
size (thickness and diameter) of th(' seal
blank. Then rhere'sthe question ofhowdeep
you want the "scoop" 10 be.
I buill the jiJ{ sho"'1 here for the Shop
Stool, The seal is 14" in diameter and the
scoop W deep at its centerpoiet, Also. I
wanted to leave a I \!.t"wide Oat rim around
the top of the seat,
The jig consists of a base with a pivol pin
that holds uie workpiece. and a pair of

bon om ofth, tap.'t1IOlII'therblanks (or the

workpiece 10 6t in. see Fig. La.
B.~E.Once the rails are cut out, the next
step is 10 make the base thai the curved rails
are attached to.Tc do this. first ripa piece of
plywoodlo widlb. see Fig. 2. Then cut this to
the same length as the curved rails. Now the
railscan be glued and screwed to the base.
PIVOTPIN. Afler the ralls are screwed
down. bore a hole for a removable pivot pin
in the base of the jig. see Fig. 2. To make it
easlerto insert and remove this pin.counter-

bore. I"holeon the bottom side of the base.

see Fig. 2a.

ROl.'fER IMS. To make a base tor the

router. 6rsl cut a piece of plywood to the
10
rails. a plywood base is attached LUthe same length as the jig base is wide (9\;2").
router. (Allille plywood parts are :h"thick.) Now driJi a !"'i!ia. hole centered on the plyCUR\1;1) KAt LS. Start the jig by making a wood (or the bit.
Next. remove the plastic base (rom your
P.1ir of side rails. To do this. first CUIrwe
rectangular pieces er plywood 10 the same router and use it as a template to mark lbr
size.S(.'(:Fig.L Nowdrawanarcwitha radius posltien of the coumerbored screw holes for
mounting the base to your router,
of 42" on one of the railblanks.
Compittclhe routt'l'base bycuu.ingrabbets
Next. remporarilysandwich the blanks tobottom fa<:e.see t\lt. 3a. The rabbets
gether (I used double-sided carpel tape) and on i~,
prevent
side-to-side movement of the router
cut the arc on both pieces at the same Lime.
Then lay out and <'UIthe openings on the on the rails.
curved rails (e)r the

to tide on. Then,

steady the router as It slides along the
n)ltt(!r

RAil
.... HK

'"

USING THE JIG

.....,

SiAl,.lANK

--

- -

wo __..?
$uRJ'ACt

"'-

PIVOT PIN

SlitkU"!$ ..tJt51I1>lk{"lhtJ!~optffliJ!g
1 bet1t>e">llh~
jig ~ alTa ~i.dt""/$.

TIt~/I PI<$/t the pit'OIpi~ lqJ (./I'I'OIifIh Ihe

baM lnt()th6ce.!tRt/wl~ j>r 11u<W/),*p,,!<~.
,-RAIL

Roumt

---

lAS'

-Mo""t a~' .troig/,t

i~
2
"",(I'r and
the ,"')II~r
Ihe
miL...Ad)i~t Ihftlltti'I{(deplh oj'lheliilso
bit

$,1

, ,

101'~-

'THICKNESS

OF SlAT alANK

Q.

..

!. , ,..f

tilt'

1l~Y()$8

II fltlWS the'1iQ'J..:pircell/~.r,.omth~ fItl.

4~.J

R.AJl$.MU$lSI

PARA1tll

TO PREVNT ROUTt$!:
USE FROM I.NOINO

'"

CROSS SECTION
COUHTtR.10" ,

r-:

Thp.,,~pi"l"i't'{1rou.ttrlJil ll'ilJ lilr'~lltl

"'<Irkpic ... m hold III~
p,,,,ofi"1I1y
0..:-: tl()U a.dVCUJ('(t th router. Orguu ron 'f~f
""'dg,,,'alwtd III. >rol bitl,.k it< li08ilioli.

0fUlJ. , .." HOLI

_<>UGH CO'H1tIt

0.......

noSf

ROUTER BAse

-PASS

u, ~OUT[Jl'SORiGINAl

BASl TO 1,0GAn
MOUNn.NO HOllS

Q.

SEtoNO

PASS

>0" ~
ORIll 1- HOlE
INCfNTDt OF

eASf FOIt I"

No. 76

W(l(>Jsmith

;lft'r makj'l/J olte II!!*'! wit), II...

4
rlmk,', rob1l1't1!~
>ld make
IIltot1,,,,, Por bC$! r.rmlml ()ft/j.l!1!.'O>*pi~
I#'IrlI:pIf'IJe

(OU~Rl
SHANK tfOU

IIJllIllrt"""it'~I.IrI$ $hfJui4I)1:N'I(lI).lil/h Ii y.

2')

JOINERY

Wedged Round Tenons

A

IoIIMaedmortise and tenon joint is

~iblyslt'Ong.
The strength comes
from thewedge. The tenon isn'lju!;tglued in
lhe mortise. it'slorkodin placewith a wedge.
And if the wedge is made of a contrasting
wood. the exposed joint looks good too.
A variation of this joint. the rr)lj ,Ill wedged
mortise and tenon. has another advantage
- it's easy 10make. For the tenon. you can
useadowel.And the mortise issimplya hole
drilled in the workpiece. (NOll!:The wedge
is especially lmportaru on ""HId tenons
which can shrink and cause the jointlo ral1.)
ROUliD1"NOSS.The tricky part of making
thisjoinlislinding a way tocuta round tenon
on the end eta round dowel. The easiest way
I've found 10do thisison the router table,
Although were showing curved ~houlders
made with acore box bil (the)'soften the transition between round parts), you could use a
stralgin router bit.

challenge is
culting the kerf, then culting a wedge 10fil
the kerf. But both of these have simple solutions. refer to the next page.
KERFSA.'11lW~OGS. Another

ROUND TENONS
Cutting tenons on dowel. is easy when
they're cut on 3 router table. The tricky part
is finding dowels lhal are truly round and
consistent in diameter. To avoid problems,)
drill a hole illa block 10match the size otrhe
dowel I need. Then I take this to the store a.
a gauge to help select dowels.
GlllI)EtJSF.s. With dowels in hand. the

next step is 10size

uie tenon. The diameter

of the tenon is easy

to determine. It

has

to

match the mortise (hole) thatit's going into.

BUIwhatabouuhe length? r cut thctenon so
il will project V," beyond the mating piece in
the joint. (For example. I cut Iv.z"long
tenons on the stretchersot the Shop Stool on
page 18.They pass through 1V."..tJUcklegs.)
SETl 1-'. To cut the tenons. first COV(."rthe
throat opening on your router fence with an
auxiliary fence. refer 10 Slep 2. Then. damp
a support block 10 the table so the dowel is

centered over the router bit. see Step

I.

Adjusting the bcighlofthe bil isa trial and

error process. Using a scrap dowel. slOWly
sneak up on the final height When the tenon
is just slightly oversize 10fit in the mortise.
stop and sand the tenon for an exact fiL
TECIISIQUE. To rout the tenon. push the
dowel into the bit. see Step 2. Then pull the
dowel ou~ rotale it slightly and push it back
inlOthe bit, see Step 3.

ROTATl-WOR.i(PIf(! 5UGKTlY

ANO THlH MAkl-AIrf01'HtR PASS

blocJi """itiems IU,,"""

at",r bit. To 8tOlt Ihe 1<'110/1, P1Uli! 1M
1811011 .lighU!I /a,yl!'r tnan. '"0,~i8C.
Ttte posilioll the lu,xiliary fence to deter- workpiece .lowly 811'(liglit isuo the roll1,r
mi,,~theIlmgt" oft". tenon.
bit. The>l,pull the "'Orkpicr~/Kick Ollt.

24

Adj".1 ".igld of TOuter bit to C1<1

The support

\XIoodsmi rh

NexL rotate tlte workpieceslightly

and push it barJi into ths router bit.
TiI," pult it 01,/ and rotate again. Continue
itllhi$ ')1(1J,,,,('1' unti! tne tmo is complet.

No. 76

KERFING THE TENON

Once the tenon is rot to size, the next Stepis
to cut a kerf for a ....'edge in the end of tbe

tenon. To prevent this wedge from splitting

the workpiece when u'sdriven in. the kerf is
cut 90' to the grain direction of the tenon,
refer to Step 5 and photo on opposite page.
GUmEUNE$.l3esidesori~ntirwthe kerftu
the grain. you11also need to determine the
width and dept h of the kerf. On tenons
greater than Vi'4hick.1 cut an lotwid. kerf.

To do this. I CUI the kerf on the table saw

since most carbide-tipped blades are about
!,so"lhick.NOle: If you're working with a
small tenon and n thin kerf is required. you
can cut it on the band saworwith a hand saw.
To determine the d"PlIl oCthe kerf. insert
the tenon in its mortise and make a mark
near the shoulder otthe renen where it bolo
tomsoui inth~ mortise, Then make sure that
your kerf doesa 'Ill" below this mark.

SETl P. To (111kerf. on Ole table saw. I

made asimple jil!-a2x4iaid on it' facewith

a hole drilled init the same size asthe tenon.
sec Step 1.The jig rides against a tip fence
thai's positioned so the blade will CUi a kerf
directly through the center-of the hole.
rscuxrors, Insert a dowel in the bole.
and push it through the blade, see Steps
5 and 6. Note; Don'r twist the dowel during
the cut- il may bind ;uldcutajagged kerf.

DalU Hau SAMf

DtA.MlTUt A.STtNON

POsntoN RI' fN;a

SO ILADE IS CtJrrlTElUt
ONUNE

TI} lfInk- a kr,.jI'/!T j.g. draw a IlIIf

To ("lit a krJ1 .. Tlr'IJt "~erta (tl/Ol' iJ'
centered fii' til., Ifllgt', uf (t m"(tJ'I);prt:
till' k'l'fill!l j.g "lid II"'u it IIp~id"
(J1.g,.~.Thrn, drill a holt centered O,l tlti~ ,lUI"'" Tilt ,~. tU'i."f.(. tlt( 1(,'OIkj}lt'Ct'..,:o tJle ed
gmrn oftlu: ft'?lt)";4 r to thf t't",t"tlillf.
lifl/" It} actl'pi (lie teuo.

PultttiQU ri,l.ft'II(,t! to Cflt n kerfclOltJtl

tilt' Ci'lIlfl'lmr of th jig. 7'11."./",.I!
til_jiga>tl/workpi", /)Millie b/.orl.llygl'ip'
pflfg 1/1< douet Gild /lsmga pu sII block.

WEDGES
the ken 111en I expenmeru with the taper
angle un III the wedge spread. the tenon and
the concept ofa w,'<lll~is simple. ,,,lling the locks it tighl in the mortise, see Step 7. (On
the Shop Stool. I used a taper angle of3.)
perfect sized wedR\"caobequite adwlenge.
There's one more thing to consider abom
That's because there are three variables 10
an), wedge: length. thickness, and taperwedgl'S- grain direction. To keep wedges
and each one a(f.",tstbe other. sec Step 7.
from breaking. the grain should run p,1mllt'l
Gt:IOUNES.Fortuaaiely.therc's a simple to the sides or the wedge. see Step 7.
SETl P. To SCtup your saw. fll'Sl position
solution 10this problem. I crut the wedge so
its bottom i<slightly less than the width of tile rip tence so the distance between tile
Now that kerfsarecut in thetenGns.thefinal
step is tocurandfiuhe wedges. Even though

blade and the fence is slightly less than the

width of the kerf in tile tenon, Then, tilt the
bladcto tht desired angle (3' in my case).
1'ECIINltll,E, CUI the wedges to length On
[he table saw. see Steps8and 9. Then. <1'1it
the wedges to width with a chisel, Next.
appl)' !!Iue 10 Ihe tenon and kerf and insert
the tenon in the mortise, Align the kerf, and
drive the wedge in place. (For details on
trimmingtenons,S(.'C page17.)

SUGHnY USS THAN

klru- IHnNON
"'_,......
,

nLT
fIlAO

T03'

TAPU

cor WlOGU so TMfY

OtalC11QN

tALl AWAY

JOOSM,4U

To
(npi'y.firni />I)';"UII rip ft lice
TIIP>!. rut Wl'tlgeH to leliglil. Positio
bottom ... Iigldly I...
9
7 lVfrl!}l'.lItSI}
Iii. rip/elite
tile II'f'tige,'fall o!flo
blade n,,1f ft.,'Cf
tlw" I.idill of klJl'j. Then n tal"'" i~ 8 dixt~ltllt
tile left oft/ re blade. This ~ep.
IllJ'UI/rom
0111

ge,

rllmlltt in spread (c1W" light i." tJtt)rt.lSt

zir:J,il,. prot'llling IltQ.tl1)'l um gil(it1{18ur/a(e.

No. 76

/)(!(lllff"t

,.8/inllll !11~8. (/10.' kerf'! II lite 111011.'Ttum

lilt blnrl.e "'Ill pUdilll'o,.kpiRcc a/IJ',g/ell(P.

Wuc"btnllh

80

bi>ldillY 1",I",e<1Ilite bladea>fd/,mr,e.

25

C 0 !vi MEN

T S

AND

QUESTIONS

Talking Shop
GLUE lOINT FAILURE
Th, u!>'" jo,,,l$ (J)I (1 pY(J_/1'<!1i
"IIJdt. a fe1t' rilontl,,1:: ago 11(l1't
forl.d. /3 tber ".Y H~ly this
,ould 1111", ",."" Pl"t'""",.d?

spread or penetrate as easily."

CIAl;" ClAMl'lIo'CI'R~:SSI1Jlli.

Rut the grealesl cause of glue

failure is the one you probably
have the most c:nnlr'OJ over -

/)aJ' t\';e}.nJJ.l

Thatcher. .~'I.um"
Whe" glue joint failur" 0<'x-u1'S.
it's usually thought that the glue
is the problem. DUI the glue is
rarely at fault.
o As long as the sheUIifl.'of the
glue hasn't been passed, and the
glue hasn 'I been frozen, the
odds are the glul' is "kay" ex-

plains BI')IlIJ1 River, a research

scientist at the l:SDA Forest
Products Laboratory.
Bryan suggests ilial the most

common problem he encouatvI'S is incorrect pressure when

damping the joinl. But glue joint
failurecan be caused by the glue
surfaces not being properly pre-

and cause them 10fail.

So it's best to give your wood
plenty of time to adiust to the

conditionsofynurshop. ln mest
cases. a couple weeks is ~nough
(or kiln dried lumber
pared. orbychanges in the meisGLl t StlRPACI~S.J\nothC'r
lute content of the wood.
common cause nf glut' failure is
>fOI5n'RE CO:'"TENT,Qui re that the surfaces to be glued

often wood is stored outside

then brought inlOthe shop to be
worked, If the wood is imrm-diatelycut and glued, Ill<'moisture
content of (he wood lila)' not
have fully adjusted to Ille drier
conditions o( the shop
Eventually.the moisture eontent ofthe wood lI,illadjust to the
indoor conditions. And since
wood moves when its moisture
content changes, the resulting
movement can S~'" the joints

aren't machined properly.

"Some woodworkers think the
host glue
b one thai has
been roughcoed up by <atlding;
explains Bryan. "That's not true
It's better to have a surface that
has been cleanly severed by a
cutting knife such as a sharp
plane or jointer."
Dull table saw blades or
jointer knives crush the wood
fibers instead of slicing them.
This loaves lorn or partially

surf.,,,,

the amount of glue spread and

the pressure applied to the
clamps.
I( 100 liule IIlue or too much
pressure isapplil'<i you'llend up
wiLh a starved joint - one thai
doesn't have enough glue solids
between the surfaces to create a
SlJ'ong bond. see board (A) in
photo below.
If too much glue or too little
pressure is applied, you'll end up
detached fibers, '111i' ""-WIS in a with a thick glue line. see board
poor gluing ...,rfne('.
(C) in photo below. As the glue
The glue "ill bond tosurtaees dries, the adhesive will shrink
like thesv, but when th~ joint is leaving voids or air bubbles in
stn'Ss,,.d, the filx:", will separate the glut! line,
and Ih. ~,;nl will fail
001'81' SI'RF-'fl. \I'hen gluThere is. one lime when I
mil!hl cunsider lightly sanding
th,' glu. "llI'faces. Ii you can't

ing.

spread a thin, consistent

layer of ~Iu. to both surfaces,
J

se." phote bottom lefl. This ('0.

SlIn.'S that both surfaces will be
fully wet and there won't be any

uluc up th, pieces (ora period o(

time after you cutorpianc them.
t'. bt:S! 10l'X05e a fresh edge spots without glue'.
with a ,;anding block and some
Then, apply pressure IQ the
2'20 or 320 l!rit paper.
joint by tightening Ille clamps
The reason (or doing this is until an even line of glue seeps
because aller a couple or weeks OUI between the boards - and
the surfaces start to gel covered
step, see board (8) in photo
with dust or pollcrams from the below. Don't give the clamps an
air. "An older surface is less extra rwist because it WOnt give
II'l'ltnblt than a fresb!)' cut sur- you. stronger joinl- it11probface" is th~ way Bryan explains ably make the joinl weaker by
iL "[n other words. liquids don't squeezing out tOOmuch glue.
NOaUM? QUISTION?
SolVIng. problem (oJ'
uvoidill&one;ntheJirstpiace)
is part of "'.0' proj~l. But
the best solutions aren't
always obvious - they often
come (rom one who's !aced
the problem before.
If you have a probtem.
soluti0n, question, or even <I
gripe, maybe _ lr another
reader) can help,just wrlU' to
1I'(}()(l.mlitJ r, Talking Shop,
2200 Grand Ave.. Des

M()ines. Iowa 50312,

26

No,76


THIN TABLE SAW INSERTS
rials Ihal work well: phenolic (8
very strong and durable plastic)
fil 11110 ca.~1iroll I0J'o', 8111 "'If and aircrafl plywood.
Since only a lew plastics dissaIl' ha a tJti)l stt'l'l top ll:Jlic/t
requires a \Ii;tllick m....1.AllY tributors sell small pieces 01
Ideas tJJll,OU' c " l moke (til 'n phenolic. we're offering ~",
!"-thick blank s, see
Ht'rl t11ltt'giKJtl, tltin (Z1~dRtm"g! 4116".and ....
1'im Willi. page 31. Aircraft plywood is
..\flallta. Grorgl0 available at 1>\0$1 hobby stores,
curro SIMP. To make an inThe uicky part 10 making a thin
insert is 10 lind a material that's sen, begin by tracing the outline
the correct thickness, but still of Ihe original insert onto Ihe
strong and dimensionallystable. thlnblank. se e Fig, I.Then cut It
MAn:RlAlS.llound two mate- to shape and file or sand to fiL
\\'oodsmith nl u- !18 'till 01t'8
W't/.wk lahle ,'Oil' ;".'ris lila!

method would
be
to start out
can use the
wilh a lhicker mateoriginal insert
as a template and CuI
rialand then rabbet the
edge, see Fig. 3,
it to size with a lIusb Irim bit.
UTTIIE SLOT.To cut the .101
To add weighl and support to
either insert, you may want 10 (or Ihe saw blade. start by lowerglue a stiI(enercur (rom It." Ma ing the blade completely. Then,
sonite 10 Ih~ bouom, see Fig. 2. to hold the insert in plac e,
Then 10 make il easy 10geuhe tighlen down the rip fence over
Insert OUI01the saw table. drill a the insert (nol the blade), see
Fig, 4. Now turn on the saw and
fingrrholealoneend.seepholo.
TIIlCK INSERT, Instead 01 810"'/(1 raise the blade through
u~lng_a mill material, another the new insert.
Or you

1
ORAWOUTUNt
Of 0 RtGRIIA
IHSUITON

BlANK

tHSftT

I
IN$6at

ADDSnFf"""

h'

."" fX1U
SVPPQitT

aLANK_.,.-

!>OSmoN ~
ON INStJtT AWAY
nOM !lAD! THIN
SLOWtY RAISE lU\OE

~...::

CASE HARDENING
Lhewood is calle-dconditioning.
"Since moisture must leave a
"One way kiln olX'rator, k'"
board Irom the outer surfaces, II) see illheir lumber is pr0p<'rly
as the board dries the center "'ill condiuoned. is to CrO~S-CliIa J".
wide lest piece from the center
sometimes bends as it's ripped,
113VC a hlgher moisture content
And we indicated that he had than Ihe outer surtares -a cnn ul a board thats randomly
probably encountered reaction ditloncalled case hardening, <ec' selected from the stack,
'Then this test piece
1 If
WfM)d wood thai's cut (rom a figure betow.

Scou \\ elsh from C0j!3n Station, l),.\ read our response in

W"'"I.~lIIitJl~o,74 to another
reader'> question - why wood

leanillgtree.

But SCOII notes there's

anotherpossibillty besides reaction wood. "It's also possible lor
this same problem to occur because your lumber has not been

properl)' dried.

"'rhis

produce-,

internal

stressesln the board and the end

result mighl be a crook or ,'(jg('

bend when tho board is ripped.
""'hen kiln operatorsdry lorn
ber, they imroduce steam into
the chamber of the kiln
_>-. <: 'I
at thE' end otthe dryinJ,!
"\......,..f'---cycle. The steam penemISKIN _Of'S
mwm<
r Irale, tllCsuriaccoflhc
WtT cOli AND OR:(SIlm
1 lumb('r and equali7.es
....
- ~_\.'.
i.
the moi~ture content
--- ~-t .....
,
h
h
th b rei.
I roug oul
(. ""
wtTlMNO COR.i
ThisfiJlalstepindryin~

--;:;:;;;:::;;::~~~tIiil=::;;::;;;S~
~..~ -: -."'"_-r~~

'.

J-

l}'

~~~;;:s~
l-==;::::;:[!~!:~
No. i6

iscut into IhC" shape o( U

"lf the test piece (I,}(I~dl\~erge

merv than a Itl"", Itlt'11JJl1~r il-

case hardened and Ih,' kiln oper3tor\\111contlnucwith thcconditinning proct!~ until a new test
pit,'~shows the lumber i> OK."
PItOHGS OMRGI MOttl tHAN '''.''.

WOOD IS CASE kAJtolNtO

tuning rork. set> Fig. 1.

'r4~cut

this shape. they

make

two equally
spaced CUISthrough
the thick.... s o( the
piece wilh a band saw,
"lf the lumber was
properly conditioned.

Ihe remaining prong>;

"'on'l div~rge more
Ihan l"lo" "'ht'n Ihe cen
ler prong is rcmovNl:
see Fig. 1.

\'f uoJ'JllI rh

TlST PIta

TOO

AND

L S

TECHNIQUES

Edge Jointing Basics

hal'S Ihe secret

QUESTION: !JtJ<'. it maliI'''

.uid< I II/al" 'h. fimsl1rd
IlOtlrd~formy PO'" /.<?

10

I"""

gluing up panels so the

jojnt~ arc strong and nearly

invisibl~?The answer lies in the

edges. Boards with straight.
:mlOOth.square edges glue up
Into Datpanelswilh strong join Is
tha, are h11rd to see.

As a rough rule oflhumb, I usuall)' rip all of the boards I'm glu
ing IO.l1cther10between 3" and
5" wide. If the boards are any
wider than 5". they're more
likely II) cup. even after they're
glued up into the panel.

BUYING WOOD

The job of making a good jomt

aClually starts al the lumber
yard, I usually purchase lumber
forpanels with both faces planed
smooth. (!hi. is called 525. or
'surfaced two sides.") This
makes it easier to select boards
that have similar color aodgrain pattern
WARPING.The next thing I look for is
warp. The drawings below show four common. types. Boards with bow (the Caeeof a
board curls in a Ushape along its length)
or twist (opposite comers curl up) can be
difficult 10usc for making panels.
But boards thai arc crooked (Oal. bUI
curved along their edges) or cupped (-Ushaped across ltlcir width) call be used.

However.they'll need a lot of work to make

them siraighl and Oat enough for gluing-up.
Ishould mention that nearly all boards are
a linle warped. And you're seldom going 10
find perfect color and grain. So there's usually compromise involved when looking for
hrmberthat's easilycut straighl and Oat.
palPAllING WOOD
QI fESTION: ()n", 1'," I]fII tilt uood.hov:
lin J pl'~P"Tf' it for .dIWi/ll/iug?

ROt Gil RJPPI"'C;. I don't start

TIle firsllhing Ido is... nothing.ll1'm going

te be making panels. 1buy the wood "arly
enough thai it can sit in the shop (ora couple
weeks. This lets the moisture content in the
wood adjusllo the conditions in Ih e shop.
ROUGH CVrnNG. AIler the wood has been

out b), ripping the individual

bcardstofinished width.Instead
1 rip them about v.' oversize.
This gives a little extra room 10
work ihe edges smooth.
,lrnight, and perpendicularto the face sides,
see opposite page. And theextrawidth gwes
you a little insurance when it comes time 10
trim (he finished panel to width.
QUESTION: ~W,al'~lIu' br~1",ay 10 rlfl

Sitting (or awhile. you can begin prepara- R ./ migld edge 011 a crooked &1(1"l!
tions. Start by cuuina your boards 10rough
length, abouI3"lon~"'rthan fInished lenj,~h. I use a straight-llne ripping jig on tht> lable
saw. The jig is Simply a 12'1w ide. :y:,"othick
1do this (or a couple reasons.
First, if you're jointing the edges of the plywood 'sled: The stock carl be either seboard on a jointer or planing tbem on a curely damped 10 the sled.tacked down on
planer, there might be a snipe (8 slightly the ends, or held in place with double-sided
deeper cut) at me end of the board. Also, carpel tape.
when glu:ng up several boards. it's nearly
USISGTIlE JIG. To use the jig, auach the
stock
10the sled SOan edge cxtend$(lverl1I'
Impossible 10 keep the ends aligned.
F'IlllIlJy,iflllewood >'j)UIsorIhejoinl opens edge oi till' sled, see Fig. 1.loco set the rip
up. it's almost always at the ends. By using fence 12" from lhe saw blade (the same
boards Illalarc abou(3' longer than finished width as the sled), 'low. 10 rip the edge
length, you can CUInut an)' of these prob- straight. simply push Ih,' <Ird and stock
through ibe saw.
lems after the panel i.gluedup.

~~;;;::~~;~~~?'
....

c:

11\rIST
tll'flrlll t,ttl'lOSf'ibl,. II) mnk
aflat
I#J(' rtl-It:"<
Oltl (if
(J"t" Ilnl'~ badl y tJfti.~t(':(I
4.( bflst .(1jtP'I)fn U J Ilg d'llt'll tll~rn,-""n1 It"d
t II;(,~I'I!.si$i"g. I/fllt '11l,t, "4' It ''f'ry fl"" bord.
('c"p - A IJfHlrd ,hnl';t rJ/PJ"-d rnl'

"'IIFfri

"Itt)

,lnrru,rrr

l,t}tlNi.s und

be

,,,1'"

1,1(llIf(I}1al t,n I' jfJiltiOcr ill II S('MI!1f ollig/tl

1)(1.~S,.X.
Til ;t;./t'tl'" N th iit IJllt usallf,' suxk,

~-- __ ::-=__ --.

flO II' - /lolI'"d

""/I'd., "''f' dijpcltll

to

'.ftllf IJO/( i~/tf too

01'1'(
IT.jlattellll". bo<rrd by pl'f'#l1Ig dol/on
1)/'tile jol, U 711/'" aJ:o' //OU I {y'ttl~1lIllt! ctlt ",p.;;.
gIlt.

ill/~) IHII'J/~.Bin

rROOK -If0lt

C700kis ...

r". !lOll'll

ha 10 np 'he board to g<l it &>,(1IglII.BIl/

hrlloa1'f ripm llg fna!J re('n.';t' II(I)Tt i)(/~rll(1/
l'ri~R'1
,'t n lId tht-' htj(frrl ,"",, rmt)k ago i If.

2$

WooJ,mllh

Nn.76

PUPA.ING
THE EDGE
An edge thaI is properl), prepared for Rlulng
hasthreechara c teristies - iI'S~Iraighl, 90'
10 both (aces of the board, and smooth,
Here's Why, Straighl edges make strong
joints. But a wavy edge creates an uneven
glue line where some of the joinl is starved
forglue and some has 100 much. TooliUJe or
too much glue can result in a weakjoinL
An edge needsto be 90' 10 the facesso the
panel will glue up nal. There's nothing more
frustrating than discovering Ibal the angle
isn't quite 90' afler you've applied Ihe glue
and started 10 tlghten down the dal1l~, As
the pressure is applied, the boards slide
apart or they won't slay Oalin the clamps.
Finalll', mating edges need to be smooth
SO the gl"e can bond properly. \\'h"n the
edges arc rough, the glue bonds 10 the raised
fibers. and then the fibers can lear loose if
the joint is stressed. (For more on glue joinl
failure, see Talking Shop. page 26.)
HAND PLANE
So how do you mak .. a straight, smooth
edge?TradilionaUy. a long hand plane called
ajointc..r\\'3SlI1e (eM,1 of choice. (Njoinling" is
the process of preparing one board or edge
10 be joined 10 another.)
Ajointeqliane hasa long SClI~.usuallywell
over 20". So as u's passed over a wav), edge
the plane tron (blade) only cuts off the high
SpoIS. I" shoner plane "ill ride along the
wavy edge and won', provide a nat surfaee.)
QUESTION: I rail make aflut rug!' wi/It
II h" ltd pIa 11<, bill wltll i~"Y it flQ'lo fhe/act!

TI,e technique for jointing on the table

saw is simple. BUI before trying this. check
to be sure the blade isclean.90lo the table,
QUES110N: Whielt ""'II do [ ieat fire and parallel with the ripfence.I use a sharp
but'J'd iftlt~grain fs U'n II!I or$uitcJ~(,':Adir 4tHooth carbide-tipped combination blade.
tWll (Ui)((ltu (t k"ot?
SKL\I CIT. To get a smooth edge. I use a
skim cut technique. Start by ripping the
This isprobably thetoughest question when edge about ""6" oversize. Then rip the edge
jointing. Firsrof all, make sun-the knives on asecond time.lakillgoruy half the thickness
your jointer are sharp. Then set the jointer to of the blade offthe edge, see Fig. 43.
plane off \.'.12" or less. Now with the majority
01the grain facing down and back. feed the
QUESTION: ~r/'nl'$ til;! Ot>.8t "'0Il to 11,'work piece at a slow. steady pace.
tcrmi",.(f ,m 'iIar. M flro~ly jO;lIud?

the knives will pull the fibers down and

OUI

or the workpiece rather than dig up into it.

TaBU SAW

One way to check is to place the edge on

something thatyou knowlsstraightand Oal.

like your saw table, If there's a light behind
rrtti"!1 a ,."all!! good "11", (I,lItiable saw?
the workpiece, It will show under any gaps.
For a long ume, a table <;lW was all I ever
But thebestmethod iSIO place the matlng
used. In fact, with a sharp blade and a well- edges together, and put the boards on a tlat
adjusted saw. you lillly never nee dajointer. surface. Any gaps will show along the joint,
QUESTION: Is liter" ~om. frrlmiqlleior

a,

FAct' 540t

ANGUS Of

MATING !)GS MATCH

a,

WORKPIEQ

If Ihe original ~dgewas 90'10 the fare, then

Ihecltltlngcrlge ofthe plane iron may not be

adiusted parallel with the sole orthe plane. If
11'. Dot parallel.the iron l'lIlSai an angle.
Or if the original edge wasn't 90' 10 the
race, you 013}' be straightening' the edge as
you plane, but the edge r('mainsatll,,, same
angle 10 the face.
One cricktogeningagood filbelween lWO
mating edge, is 10 plane both edges al uie
same time. To do this, Uglne" both board,
into a vise withIhe mating edges upand face
side of the boards OULsee ~iI1.2. Now plane
both boardsat 'he same time. !\oy variation
from 90' on on" <'<illeis cancelled OUIby the
variation on the other edge, see Fig, 2a.

IOINTI.
Certainly the best tool for the job loday i.1I
sharp. well-adjusted power jointer I~< designed CQ produce smooth. straight edges at
a set angle 10the race side of the board.
CHIPOlT. One of the biggesl problems
with a jointer is chipout. To avoid chipout
alongth e edge, feed the work SO the grain On
thr (3('(>ofth"board pointsdown and toward
the back end ofthl.' board. <e<' rig. 3a. Then

No. 76

TO AVOID OUPOUl'.
GRAIN SMOUlD fAa
OOWN ANO lACK

I---,~~

flR.sT: AlP.oM"
-t"

SUGHT\.Y OvtRSJ%1

:u

1Ht haCKNW

Of- THE 8\ADE

-1

r-

,6:
UGKt lOAD ON alADI'
llAViS SMOOTH (DGl

,
,

WORKfIfta

Woodsmirh

29

EDGE JOINTING

WITH A ROUTER

There are several ways you can usc

router 10CUIa Sltnight, smOQth glue ed$:e.
The fir,,1 way involves using your router
IabIc'llkc a joinler see I~g. 5.

ROUTt. TABLE
A)<linter has separate inieed and OUdl,<-dtabll'~ !hal are offset from each other, To
create the same efi('ct on the router table, I
auached a piece oi plastic (aminate (Formic;a) to the left (outlee>d) ~id~ of the router
table f"n(~. The muter bit remove'> stock
like !I,p knives of a joint,r. and the laminate
SUI'ponS the I1<''WlY'<.'U1
~g,.

I used double-sided carper tape 10attach

the ~16"'lhick plastic laminate to the f~nre
Mount il so 00. end aligns with the bit open
ing in tl1efence. "'-'t' Fig. 5. Then file a sllgtu
bevel on the rolW of IIw laminate by the
opening so il won't catch the Il-aclingcomer
of the workpiece. see Ag. Sa.
NeXl mount a straight bit in the router
table. (If your router wlll accept it. a W'.
shank bit works better than a 1,I."shankbit
since the thicker shank helps cut down On
vibration) Then adjust the tcnce SO lite sur-

faCt'oflhe laminalcisaligncd with thcoutermost edge ol the bil, "'" ~i~.

Sa.
Now turn on the router and pass lite workpiece over !lIC bit imm ri~hl LO 1<11.For lite
best edge, do tl1isinasmooth. non-soppass.
This method has a couple limitBliun<First, the thicknessof the stock to Ixjoinll-d
is limned to the i<:ngth or the bit's cUlting
ed$:e. Also, since the length nt lit" rence is
short, it's difficult to joinl lOll!!pll....."'.

'l ,

~_~:::.:::;::::=:-;~...:;~
r
...-

v.

1'...,.,,-

---

r ,.

I I

p"
\.

07

((,
I

\\

l(;,.c

I'

"'I:'-

k:::::==::::::;:'~'1

-r

,.,71 -.
\j' Uij~' I

l""ll

WottKPtttt
FENCl

I,'

'iI
RUSH TlJM art'

You can also use a hand-held router and a

<traigblcdge fence 10trirn a small amount off
the edge oi a board. see
6and 7.
!'SCE. To trim with a (~nC(>,I1iketo use a
:\1," straight bit. see Fig. 6. Alarge bh vibrates
less than a smaller bit. SO it makes a bcuer
OOIll:.Start by clamping nstraightedge fmcc
to the workpiece 10guide the router. Then
adjust the fence so the bit trims about ~I."
olltl1e edge. Note.To avold an uneven edge.
hold Ihe same pan of the router base against
.-,. tile fence forthe length of the cut,

v,

$"

l-lJ:s:.lllltllllJrr.l\notht'r\lo'3ytojoinl

withahand-held rooteristo trim the

edgewith aOush trim bit.Since most
Oush trim bits have a bearing on th e
bottom of the bit. the fence bas to be
clamped to the bottom side of the workpiece
whllc the router rides on the top. see Fig. 7.
To trim the edge. align the straightedge
fence with the edge of Ihe workpiece. For
the smoothest edge. trim olf 1<16" or less (to

minimize bil vibration).

EDGE-GLUING ROUTER BIT

AnollK'r way to use a router lor preparing
stQCk fOI' edge-gluing is to cut 1tl11)(lIC and
,,'roove joints in themalingpieces.Th .. elCtra
gluiDJ;",rio"" makesa >U'ongjoiln. And the
joint keeps the stuck aligned whil~ gluing.
But making tongue and gTOOVl' joints can
be time consum;nll. The traditional method
is 10lISCtwo router blts, and that can take a

-_

..ITemS lONGUf
ANOGtoQVf

ON lACHO)G(

30

lot oftim~ to <ct up. Butlh~I'I/', an altemative - using an edge-gluing bit that joint>
and shapes theedSICsinone pass,Sloephoto.
You only need one bit because it CU~ a
LOn~l1~
and a groove on botl1 mating edges,
see drawing. TIle edge .r one board is Cut
wuh the face side up. Then lite mating edge
on a >;I.'COndboard iscut face side down
UMITA11()ss.A1lhough these bitscut per.
fetlly matched edges. lite)' do haYt!somc
limitations. f'1I'Sl.lhe bitscut a limitt-d range
of stock Ulickne.'\ses. The bil in the photo.
for example. ~'\Ilsonly VI"lO t"!hickstod..
Also.titebil can be tricky IOset up. IIhas
to be exactly centered on the thickn= of
the ,lOCk 10,l(clasm09th panel.

W,xxhmtth

Motherlimitation i.personal; I don't.like

tne zig.zag look on lite ends of my pnlject:s.
So I wouldn't use this bit in making a panel
with exposed ""cis. Or for making raised
panels because the zig.z3g jon,t would be
seen on the bt>vell surlares. 8Ull'd use il
for panels "i!h hidden <'flds,such as framed
panelsor lbOSO'willI breadboard ends.
For soul'l:esoflltis bit. see Alternate Cat
alog Sources on tb~ oPlJO'iu: page.

No. 76

SUPPLIES

PROJECT

Sources
This is a high-qoality carbide- h,,\'I somc trouble lindin~ the
rcm-ct "'AO (1 ~I (or the It,Ks
tiPIl"'<!bit with a V4" shank,
Woodsmitb Project Supplies
v -Groove Bit
IUId " lor .h" s'I\'I(h"r,) and
i~
()r(~rinlta hardware .;t f"r lito 74-1450 VGroove Bit.. :):!3.~ WfkXi \~JM.fll"t.'ti(:'d fer tl1i~ PI'1'"
{':()l'TFH$I'K.Tcl make the ject ,\ e usod red oak dO\Vlots.
Night Stand on p3gt 6.
w(' used General I1nish,,' variation of the picture franu- Th,'''''''' .,'allablefrom ih~ AI
TWI>-~teilSy,tem t" finish Ih. shown al.Jw boltom 01paR" I '. 1.'01al< \ .laloSl Sources lisu-d
~igll' Sttlnd (we the section un we "sed 3 t"l" l)lug cuut-r- idl(l a be:lc.~ or '\'cwKl~ith Prooj<."t.'l
Finishes, below).
s~ial countersink bit (]\'II.l ~I s'JI)iJJli<a!:o.
made bv IV 1 Fuller {.U The
10 tirush th e Shop Stolll we
\'igh. Stand
770,100 Night Stand 1111J'd
plug \'''Ult~'rand counu-rsink 011 ( U""I d ( -m-ral Finishes' Two
ware Kil
S19.9.=t available Irom Lllt\ i\ltc' mate Cat Slt p Sy tern (~'E'~tiOD on Fin.11011.
Sources li~t('<llx-I(,\\
i..
IJt.'h1>4:lu\\).
0(3) Solid Brass Drawer Pull"
Shup !'.ool
with Ceramic Rosettes. lnnll'CQUlltcl"iJlk isalsc availaeludes Moonting Hardware. hI, frnln \Voow.mith Project 716200 :o.hnpStool Dowel
"
'
,..", ..,S2:1.~5
2lf!" [\{JfCSUPIJlies. lt's actually pan ui .. Kit
0(31 Plastic Tumbuuons (for COIllI>klC bit ><:1fordrllliOi: pil"t 0(1' 1\. Dill. b)' 36"Long Red
use a!'tdrawer stops)
and ,hank holes as well ii,CUU'"
()~k
(for legs)
01\
"r Glidt, Strip. <df"d tersinks and cuunterbores fer 0(") "1';" x 36".I.ong lied
II rk nnwel> (enough (or all
hering. pressure-sensitive
\.;0. S sc...ews.
plastic, l,..':!y,.'idl
Pilot Rit Set
lour ...tretchers)
GlJflF ,,-nup:nw sl'lfadb.r
756410 Pilot BitScI for Xn. ~
FINISHIS
Screw
~
S15.95
il\.<; glide strip i,ayailabl. "'pa'
0(1) 1' Brad Point Bi. tor For both 111,'~iSlhI Smodand tho
ratd,. lt's sold by thcloot.
~hlIJI ~I,,'l It: used (jencralt-io
7~11 09 PIa.lic Glid, :,triP.
Shank Holes
~"..wide ..
so "llJ)"r ft. 0) \k"Twist Ili. lor ...tand,ml "11.,'1",1110",, TI'c)"n'long oil
~n:\-\~
and un-t hanecomblnations that
DESK"'CTUal F!lAME
(1) 7ft.," T"isl Bit lor 1..c
.. Rol.)t call !>t. rubbed on wi.h dulit .
:-.crews
nll'" makt-sit t as}'lO appl)' tu lltl'
For thl' I)"sk I'idur(' Fram"
:;hb""Tl tIn I)aS:C- I:!. ~c.. u~"(1 '-'&" 0(1) $." C(lUnlfrsink/Ctoun ...r llloldinR,,,fth, NigbtStandand
IIIl' do"d. inlh(' Shop Siool.
fll)",oud (or the badonsr bo;,rcl.
bort'
(;"-ncr:tlFiIJlshl'Sis.a l\\'O-stcp
Thisplywo(.d (som"IIn1""C'd1kd 0(1) Depth Collar
....)..1'"', 'n,e first steJ) is a clea,r
ain-raft plywood) is availabk at o (I J ,\ll.n Wrench
tunl: uil ""aJ.r e-allcd SealaceD.
hClbb, >h"p" and th .. A1"'mlil<'
SHOPS'OOL
..\[t,,:rU11..'~-alt!r drit'S. Llle sur
Calalog Snurec< liste'" bt'l"w.
V(tRO()\'l Hrr \\'f,;' 11~da \i. Hardwood do\\ "I, lor th~ leg< fan' ."nold be lil:htiy robbe'll
groclve bit to Illake tht! piclurt> and slJ1etdll'rsoi th,' Shop St.w,1 ,,;tl! ,10'.,1wool. Then th ...niland
fram~. IC, 3vailabl,' (rum many shown on pall" lit m.), b.-avail. urclham'lopcoat can be added.
soon'.,., (>C'(> A1tem3t~ Catalog ble (rom a local lumb.r yard.
0" th~ Nighl Stand. we u<;ed
Sulln-es liSled lx-Iowl or from home center, or retail \'O(Jd Gl'flCraJ Fini~h('$'R~)-all'inish
\Voodsmith PI"Ojt Supplies.
workinjl 51Ore. Bu. you "1lghl .., .h,lop CO:lIThi;;ldt ~ bt:auli

NIGHTSTAN])

II""",

1'"".

ORDER INFORMATION
aVMAIL
'rO orde". by mail. m1I' tho [emu
endo,.....>d with " CW'T\m1 issue,
11w "rd~r tonn include' illtormation on bandUng and ship'
ping ~harges, 3l1d ~1Ie> lax.

::-.end your mail ordFr tel'

f'.(),

tim. lO:i.rlO

av PHONE
For ta.>;lcsts<"''''''!IS<) ourToll
ttW order IiJJ~.O!X'I'J \1,,06ay
lhrollith Fridar, ItOO ,\).1
5:00 I'M Central Tim.
B,,16'. (alling, have your
V1SA. :'.lastE'r Card. or Div
(.'(1""[ Card ....,;!~

1-800-444-7002
~ ("".},,..'I',
,_..
I".f').1
II,.
_p_'_',_._"h_:I<"_'_'O_<_."'_''!I'

76J60 1

$9.50Quar1

Royal finish Oil and

I rethan e Top Coat (Satin)
761502
56045 Pint

761602 ._

$9.95 Quart

,\nnRScal

Oil and

l rethane Top Coo. (Satin)

761520.
76) 620

_ .._~ ...S6A5l'in.
S9.95Qu3J1

, .. au S"W IN51a,s
In Talking Shop (page 21) We
talkedabout U,llll'!phenolit'p!a,;

tic 1(1make a "Zt11K'It'araJlt:t" in<trt turyourtabl .. saw,

\\'ood~milh Project SUI)"

plies IS offering 5" x 15" blank.
o( phCllUli~that you can co. to fit
lit" in"lC'rtoll<'ninl: in )'(lur lable
saw. The blanks are "\/lUlablein
three litkkncsscs. "0 nlt,""ore
yaur table sa'" beiorc orderinfl
find aut 1it .. IIean1slthicknes."

'0

Instructionsar~ iJ1Clud<-don ~ul

ling the insert 10 fil th~>hapc'
and depth ofyourNlw'solW'ninj!
Phenolic Insert Rlank:,
7763 J 0 II,"'Ph''lOlk... $6.95
776-320:V.6" f'henQlic $I!.95
776-330

L'," PI",nulk !)12.!J5

r I/~lmU'(tl'L' a ltd ~Illjl)/II ~ nltr JI bt )t)/1 illlll1 tl'('/I,llt,tl..'t H!J

I'll til ItJ!I.~.P/({(J$t' ('(III t'(lch (VI'uII(r II!I _TorIf rntalfl(1lJr l 'tt"I"-"laflv~/,
"bopomlhh, llll'.

'$~MtlItmI......
n!

'0

\_'O_'

Sealacell Sealer (Clear)

7(; ) 50 1
85.95 Piot

.o;,lllllt.

~I ~l-!r$in
11 " _~rll, ... T' .".."f
\tid...........
r~~
..
\\'nrk..
~1l
~7~~~
. l'tl,llo

,..'"
"

Ii"

tor. l:t1-h.'-tO
" __
r.r
......
_._.h_'
- \\_......
__ I.......
R,.

W,1Odc.'rnh
1!lI....~ltS3

11"11 t ..II.,~,

tIIJ~:.t,_"SliI,
I'I.._~ , , ",.,.,.,

.. To of

.~ ..

II

.f. (.,.

to

II " ...

r,lw ylr

,...
,.. "Wi. lui.

h
\\ood,,"rIu>r""~I.lPlIl)ti
:S"""1l~"O

"
''''_",_;<_. l~
,_",_~_,_. TO!:-4
I.~ ,';1. lIn

t'

tt

~~/(>1-~
..

r.

.,.

Tn..ndhncto
/.

"

Ik~ "'CHrk'-',1'\ 5C):i()6~'

and quarts,

ALTERNATE CATALOG SOURCES

J.fV.rh ,,.,11Oft!,, Int.

\\uoct."",,1.h ProjcctSuppli""

ful saun finish, \\'c wanted more

durability for the 51.0<)1and used
G.'n.ral Finishes' ArlllR5<al.
This b a heavv-duty finish.
One pint o( _h is enough 10
fini"h the Night Stand or Shop
Stoul, Wood.mith
Projc~1
SuppJiC'~ is oifcring both pints

iJlJ-!".;G-V,,!l."

.;

'J: ,......
1.\1

-l1K-,\,~~.St.m-

"n~f'"

I II, -.-'
,"",..( _1~_"""'_~
2_1'_1_" '"':'k .J
",,"~.l.
r~"i __

31

LAS

LOOK

Final Details
Desk Picture Frame

Rtf fill/lUg 11,;u I(VJOd$tJ'p.~to a ba~,fly'

Oak Stool

'"l'. !IOtl

gt" tlu "lnk'if litJjtf/'ptJ f/"lt:Cr Th ror,'flr .'fq"aJ'f'X

ra II Ill' ,'./ the M ~)lt 11"f)QlJ
- urn ('oltllTltft itty {'tIl

.. l\ 'j dflt"d''''II",l

_lIJtnIx i filiOI

if I (KIA:Illllh't

II Sf" ,rill

and ti, ('ot'ot"'t 1'/(1(", A ~CfJUfle(l-()ltt ....ect 111,tl

ull!l'411 II !/x mnk 11t"/I'"jirl"tnl,l,', 1)1,1rllnllf "V"'!I

Stand Details

7'Jtis ('Jterty .\'IUht t:.tal,d;,'t tl~of;!J'II'(1and built

rln8wic_/;"tlt'tt:-tr.J)(/-JH1 net (rnsf ruotum ((I/tJ(;k
gl1!f1t "JIJuyttjd,' II QJ((t1ft hed or n', t ',.Sg chair
Il.JitJt

32

" Sma/l detail.

.\ ighl

ud.Dc tml

lik dot'c.lailtu

drtttt-el'l; {t,iU, 'lli.~ ptt't(lllmll(.~.It

hltt'11f)8t'<o('dgf top. ond rIta Ill/t';vdf rfJ"t ('.()r1It:r~.

Woodsmuh

No. 76