Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Table of Contents
INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER 1 WHAT IS A DSLR CAMERA?
CHAPTER 2 CRITICAL POINTS
CHAPTER 3 GETTING A PHOTO READY
CHAPTER 4 GETTING OBJECTS SHARP
CHAPTER 6 - ANATOMY OF A VIEWFINDER
CHAPTER 7 - POST PROCESSING AND IMAGE EDITING
CHAPTER 8 - MEMORY CARDS
CHAPTER 9 - WHY UPGRADE?
CHAPTER 10 HOW TO CHOOSE A MODEL
CHAPTER 11 REMOTE CONTROLS
CHAPTER 12 - MODES
CHAPTER 13 - UNDERSTANDING DIGITAL SLR
CHAPTER 14 - QUESTIONS TO ASK WHEN TAKING A PHOTO
CHAPTER 15 - ACCESSORIES
CONCLUSION
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Introduction
I want to thank you and congratulate you for downloading the book A Beginners Guide To DSLR
Photography.
This book contains proven steps and strategies on how to take photos the right way with your digital
camera. You'll learn about all sorts of amazing points that relate to these cameras.
These are fascinating cameras in that they come with a variety of features. You can take a look at
many points in this book including how photos are to be taken, how you can create nice looks and
how to make your images stable as you take them. You will also learn about common mistakes that
people make and whether or not you might be at risk of creating a photo that isn't as sharp as you
want it to be.
You can also learn about the use of software to edit photos from a camera and the many aspects that
come with different kinds of cameras. You might be amazed at just how interesting the world of
photography is when you see how such a camera may be used.
Thanks again for downloading this book; I hope you enjoy it!
Other Features
Now apart from its transformer-like ability to change lenses, what really defines a DSLR is the
quality and speed that comes with it. The imaging sensors in this camera are much larger in a DSLR
when compared with any compact digital camera. It works on bigger the better logic: the bigger the
imaging sensor, the better the image quality.
Another awesome thing about DSLR is the speed. It can capture images with a speed of 4fps [Frames
per second]. No compact digital camera can beat that.
Image sensors are basically what create noise in your photographs. These sensors are responsible for
maintaining the quality of the image and since point and shoot cameras or compact digital cameras
have smaller image sensors, they lose quality when the sensitivity is increased.
Also, DSLR cameras are pretty solid when it comes to exposing the image sensors to light. Most
point and shoot cameras have settings where you can keep the exposure to mostly just up to 1 minute
but a DSLR allows you to do that for as long as you want. Sometimes a good shot needs an exposure
for around 5 long minutes and only a DSLR will allow you to do that.
So now you know what a DSLR is and what it can do. Once you get your hands on such a camera and
start exploring, it will become like a Lego toy set. You can attach external flashes, various lenses, lens
filters which affect colors and contrast and more. Also, you can also upgrade the battery life for
longer photography sessions. It is not a camera for your selfies and party clicks; use your
smartphone for that. This is for great quality photographs and an amazing photography experience
with limitless capabilities.
Debunking Myths
The following are some photography myths so you dont get disappointed just yet:
1. Taking photographs outdoors in good daylight is something which can be easily done
with any camera so dont feel disappointed if you friend challenges you with his point and
shoot camera. There is a lot more you can do which he cant.
2. Indoor photography in sub-par light is a challenging task. So if you dont get a good
output, dont blame the camera. Learn the techniques and you will get a perfect photograph.
3. Clicking pictures of moving objects is difficult: a moving car, your dog, your kids. This
is especially when its indoors or when the lighting is not adequate. It is extremely difficult
for any camera and all photographers may struggle to master this art.
4. If you are spending money to buy a top notch camera from brands like Nikon, Cannon,
Olympus then make sure you buy lenses of the same brand to get the best output.
5. Lastly, the most important myth is about megapixels. Dont fall for it. Many salesmen
mislead customers to buy cameras with higher megapixels. The truth is that any camera over
4 megapixels is good enough to print an image as big as 2x3 feet in size. Its all about your
photography skills.
Always lock your target before clicking a picture. It is about good composition and perfect
order. You target can be your friends, a tourist group or maybe just some fruits on the table.
Move them right/left, position it correctly and only shoot when you are satisfied and see a
proper frame.
3. Frame your shots:
Framing is what makes photographs appear rich and high in quality. To become a good
photographer, you must have an eye to frame your shots. Place your target properly and make
sure you leave some headroom. It is not necessary to keep your target directly in the center of
the frame. Do some experiments and study some photographs in magazines. You will get an
idea of what works best.
4. Lighting makes a difference:
Proper lighting helps in defining the mood of the photograph. Play around with internal flash
settings and check out how it works in various environments. Soon you will get an idea of
what settings are best for each type of shot. You can also attach external flash units for
advanced photography. A good lighting set up can change from night to day.
5. Controlled Exposure:
You need to learn how to manually control the exposure level on your camera. Auto exposure
is good in some photographs but if you want to take professional photographs then you will
need to master this art. Controlled exposure will help you take pictures with more focus on
your subjects. Exposure is directly related to the shutter. Manual controls will give you the
best results. For example, if you try to take a picture of a cloudy sky then the auto exposure
feature will focus on all the white clouds in the sky while you might just want to focus on one
beautiful cloud. The iris will be closed to focus on all the white clouds and it can lead to an
underexposed photo or a dark photo.
6. Depth of Field:
Ever seen those photographs where you see an object in focus in front and the background is
blurred? That is the depth of field. Once you learn the basics of this, your creativity will
expand beyond limits. This can really add professionalism to your photographs. This works
best with a Macro lens for close up photography. You can set the focus on the exact target.
Aperture
Aperture is a critical part of DSLR photography. ISO and shutter speed are the other two. Needless to
mention, aperture is as vital to photography as ISO and shutter speed are hence popular to talk about.
What aperture does is one of two things: the background of an image is either blurred or in what may
appear as wizardry, the background and the foreground objects are brought to focus.
A simplistic definition of an aperture would be a lens with a hole in it for light to travel into the body
of the camera. A lens on a camera can be comparable to the human eye. The underlying concept
behind all cameras of this day and age is the human eye. The cornea of a human eye is comparable to
the front portion of a lens through which external light passes to reach the iris. How much the iris
would expand or contract is directly related to and indeed dependent on how much external light is
available which in turn regulates the pupils size as well, thus letting light enter the eye even further.
In photography, parlance pupil is comparable to aperture. A look at how much light would pass
through to the retina is comparable to the sensor of a camera depends on how large or small the pupil
is. Hence, an aperture of a camera resembles and is indeed similar to the pupil of a human eye.
The iris is commonly referred to in the photography world as a diaphragm. What the diaphragm does
is prevent light from passing or entering; the exception being those lights that enter through the
aperture. They arent blocked by the diaphragm.
F-Numbers
The expression of aperture in photography is in f-numbers or stops. This is an indication of how
large or small the aperture is. If the f-stop is small, it indicates that the aperture is large. Conversely, a
large f-stop would mean the aperture is small. The logic behind such a relationship is skewed.
Generally large numbers are associated with large values and vice versa but this is indeed an
exception. F/1.4 is larger than f/2.0 and so on.
With a high f-number, f/32 for example, the aperture is small. With a small f-number, all objects in
the foreground and background will be brought to focus. Conversely with a low f-number, f/1.4 for
example, the foreground would be in focus while the background would be out of focus, thereby
isolating the foreground objects from the objects in the background. It is to make the objects in the
foreground look relatively sharper than the objects in the background which would look blurred.
There is a limit that every lens has in relation to the size of the aperture. The specifications of any
lens would mention the maximum and minimum apertures, in other words the lowest and highest fnumbers. The maximum aperture of a lens is more relevant than the minimum as it shows how fast
or slow the lens is.
A lens with an aperture of f/1.2 or f/1.4 as the maximum is a fast lens as more light can pass through
whereas a lens with a maximum aperture of f/4.0 is a slow lens since comparatively less light can pass
through. Hence for photography in low light, a slow lens would be ideal. Almost all lenses these days
have a minimum aperture of f/16 which isnt extraordinary but sufficient for normal photography
requirements.
Lenses
Lenses are of two types: fixed or prime and zoom. A zoom lens is flexible as it can be used to zoom
in or out. Point and shoot cameras have zoom lenses and therefore it is not necessary to be physically
near or far from the subject.
Fixed or prime lenses on the other hand only have a single focal length. The optical design of zoom
lenses is complex; hence most lenses for consumers are equipped with variable apertures. What this
means is that based on whether the user is zooming in or out, the f-number of the aperture would
increase to a maximum or decrease to a minimum accordingly.
Exposure
Exposure in photography has to do with how light or dark an image is after it is captured. To a great
extent, photography is about intuition and tinkering with the exposure triangle would gradually and
eventually turn a rookie photographer into a pro.
Attaining just the right exposure has similarities with accumulating rain water in a bucket. Even
though rainfall cannot be controlled, what can be controlled when you are taking a picture, for
comparison's sake, is the size of the bucket, how long the bucket is left in the rain and how much rain
water accumulates. Keep the exposure right so the picture looks its best.
The underlying concept of combining width, time and quantity variables in as many different
combinations as possible aims at achieving just the right exposure. A bucket which is wide enough
would be full in no time whereas a bucket that is not as wide would not be full even if it were to be left
in the rain for the same length of time.
Natural light for a photographer is just like rainfall: Both cannot be controlled.
Shutter Speed
Apart from ISO and Aperture, Shutter Speed is the other pillar on which the entire essence of
photography is predicated. It relates to how well the camera can get a photo taken. This is a part of
DSLR cameras that cannot be ignored.
The sensor of a camera has a curtain in the front. This is the camera shutter which remains closed
until the camera shoots. The moment the camera shoots, the curtain or the shutter opens instantly and
the sensor is exposed to enable light to pass through the aperture of the lens. As soon as the sensor
captures the light, the shutter shuts down instantaneously, thereby preventing the light reaching the
sensor. The button that triggers the camera to shoot is known as the shutter button.
Shutter speed, or exposure time, means the duration the shutter of a camera is open to expose the
sensor to light. A fast shutter speed would result in frozen action.
A slow shutter speed would result in an effect known as motion blur where objects look blurred as
they are in motion in a certain direction. Motion blur is widely used in car and motorbike
advertisements to convey the notion of motion and speed by blurring the wheels that are in motion or
the surroundings of that vehicle.
Photographs of thunder and lightning or low light photography that are achieved through mounting
the camera on a tripod are examples of shots where the shutter speed is slow. Photographers who take
photographs of landscapes that have rivers and waterfalls maintain slow shutter speeds to accentuate
and convey a sense of motion and speed and yet keep all else in focus. Action can be frozen with a
high shutter speed. With a slow shutter speed, an artificial sense of motion can be created.
A fraction of a second is all it takes to measure shutter speed. Most state-of-the-art DSLRs with
cutting-edge technology are equipped with shutter speeds from 1/4000th of a second to 1/8000th of a
second and even faster. The shutter speed on almost all DSLRs is typically 30 seconds (which is the
longest). A shutter speed of more than one second is considered a long shutter speed and a tripod is
recommended for low-light photography at night or for motion photography.
Shutter speeds and aperture are set by most cameras automatically with the auto mode feature. If
aperture priority mode is selected then the lens aperture can be selected and the shutter speed can also
be automatically set by the camera.
Manually, the shutter speed can be set by selecting the shutter priority mode where the shutter speed
can be set and the aperture is automatically selected by the camera.
Shutter speed can be found by looking on the viewfinder. There should be a number on the bottom left
corner of the screen. On most DSLRs, the shutter speed would not be represented as a fraction of a
second but rather as a number.
If the shutter speed still cannot be ascertained, the camera should be set to aperture priority mode and
by looking through the viewfinder; the camera should be positioned in the direction of an area that is
dark. The display will have numbers which should be noted.
Manual Mode
After practicing on aperture priority mode and shutter priority mode in terms of which mode is
better, there isnt a unanimous opinion, good or bad, for either of the two modes. The fact is they are
both available for a definite purpose and can be used according to the demands of a situation. As they
say, practice makes perfect. Playing around with different shooting modes would instill a style in
photography to ascertain which mode is best to be used in a particular situation.
For instance, if the background needs to be blurred or if everything should be in focus then aperture
priority should be used. On the other hand, if the speed at which the image is captured is more
important then shutter priority mode should be used.
Anyone who's an expert in these particular modes will have a much easier time with the manual mode
feature on the camera. Shooting in manual mode is possible by turning the dial on the top part of the
camera to M. You can check the manual with your camera for information on what shutter speed and
aperture to use while you are on manual mode.
Being familiar with what aperture priority and shutter priority to use can help you to quickly set your
preferences in terms of shutter speeds and apertures. Care should be taken on exposure while the
shutter speed and aperture are reconfigured. An ideal setting for an exposure would be zero. For
brighter pictures though, an exposure setting anywhere between 0 and 1 would be ideal.
Inbuilt Flash
Every camera has an inbuilt flash. The computer of the camera ascertains whether or not flash is
required in relation to exposure, focus and zoom level. The activation of the inbuilt flash in compact
cameras is synchronized with the shutter speed. The difficult part though is controlling how intense
the flash would be and at what exact time the flash would trigger.
As a result, pictures could appear washed-out. Pop-up flashes are also available on DSLRs and the
pop-up flash and the shutter speed used at a given time can be synchronized. How intense the flash
would be would depend on the general light of the shot and may be tweaked accordingly. The flash on
DSLR cameras can be used in a manner that is artistic and soothing to the eye.
How to Focus
An image will be formed when light passes through a convex lens. What the image will look like
depends on the path that light travels on to enter the lens. Which path light will take depends on two
vital factors; one is the angle at which the beam of light enters the lens and the other being what the
lens is made of.
The angle at which light enters the lens can vary with the proximity of the object in relation to the
lens. The light beam regardless of how it enters is bent by the lens to a certain degree. Hence, light
beams with a sharp angle of entry would have a blunt angle of exit and vice versa.
The bending angle on the lens remains constant at any specific point. Light beams within proximity of
the lens can converge at a distance while light beams from a point that is far away from the lens
converge at a nearer spot. The crux of the matter is that the actual image of an object that is closer is
formed at a distance whereas the actual image from a distant object is formed nearer.
This phenomenon could be observed by lighting a candle in the dark with a magnifying glass held
between the candle and the wall. The image of the candle can be seen upside down on the wall. If the
candles image cannot be seen on the wall then it would appear a little blurred. Thats because the
light beams emanating from a certain point are yet to converge. To bring the image of the candle in
focus, the magnifying glass should be moved nearer or kept at a distance from the candle.
This is exactly what is done by turning the camera lens to focus it essentially what is done is the lens
is nearer or at a distance from the surface of the film. As the lens moves, the actual focused image is
aligned so that it rests on the surface of the film.
Choosing AF Points
Focusing has never been as simple and easy as it is to do these days. All one has to do is use any of
the basic zone shooting modes Full Auto, Portrait or Landscape and the DSLR camera is fully
automated and programmed to work in the background. Its that simple and easy. The shutter button
needs to be feather-touched and more often than not the camera would be in focus within a fraction of
a second as the snapshot is ready to be taken.
Every now and then though, there might be photographs that just arent sharp enough. The solution
lies in the autofocus system and how it actually works. If free rein were to be given, a typical DSLR
would use its entire gamut of nine autofocus sensors that are strewn in and around the frame of the
image.
The AF points are scattered and spread out at different sections of the frame. Sophisticated cameras
can have six AF Assist points in addition to the first nine but unlike the first nine, no one can actually
select them on a manual basis.
Info from all AF points is used in the focusing process. The distance between each object from the
camera is calculated and the nearest object is selected and in sync with an AF point and the AF is
configured.
This is how focusing on the nearest object is achieved but that isnt the case every time. Close-up
shots or a camera with a telephoto lens attached would reduce the depth of field. This would force the
photographer to be as accurate as possible with no real room for error in the process of taking an
image.
Shutter Speed
Shutter speed is a big point to see when you are trying to focus on sharpness. The reasons behind
blurred images that aren't sharp come firstly from how the camera may shake as it may be held in
hand. The shutter speed may either be slow or not as fast as it should be to capture a subject that is
moving. Knowing how to rectify the issues is crucial to capturing images that are tack sharp.
What shutter speed should be used would depend on the subject that is being shot, whether the subject
is in motion or is still and the effect that the person taking the photograph intends to attain.
A salient point to be noted is that the proximity of an object in motion in relation to the person taking
the photograph would determine the shutter speed. In other words, if the person is near an object in
motion then a fast shutter speed would cause the action to stop.
A rule of thumb in photography is the reciprocal rule which is widely used. What this rule aims at
achieving is to find the slowest shutter speed that can be used while the camera is hand held and to
also keep the camera from shaking. The rule mentions that while the camera is held by hand, the
shutter speed should be faster than the lenss reciprocal focal length.
The rule is controversial and at the same time can be relied upon. It is only meant to be used as a
guideline for setting shutter speeds. This is a big point for photos that need to be as sharp as possible.
Multiple Bursts
Your chances of capturing tack sharp images while the camera is hand held would increase
exponentially if the camera is on a continuous shooting mode where multiple shots are taken back to
back. It can be expected that at least one shot out of so many would be tack sharp.
Image Stabilization
Shutter speed can be slow with an image stabilizer on the camera. You can try and shoot
at speeds of 2-4 stops if the lens permits. All lenses have their own factors for how they can take
stable images so be certain that you will be using the right ideas when getting those images taken
correctly.
Tripod
A tripod is an essential accessory to keep with a camera still so you can actually get sharp pictures.
However, care needs to be taken while purchasing one as there are many different tripods out there to
choose from.
If a camera with the largest lens attached can rest on a tripod then it will certainly be to your
advantage. Also, different weather conditions are a good indicator of whether or not a tripod can
support the weight of the camera and not cause the camera to shake or fall with the camera mounted
on the tripod. Hence the necessity of a good quality tripod cannot be emphasized enough.
There are limitations in terms of the weights of tripods and these weights can be compared with the
weight of the camera with the largest lens attached to the camera. If the cameras weight with the
heaviest lens attached is almost equal to the maximum permissible weight limit on that tripod then it is
almost certain that the camera would shake regardless of the weather conditions.
It is recommended for lenses with image stabilizer and vibration reduction features that the image
stabilizer be turned off while the camera is mounted on a tripod. The logic behind this
recommendation is that lenses with IS and VR look for movement or motion and when there is none
ISO
The lower the ISO within 100-200 range, the less light the camera will need. Hence if for example the
day is bright and sunny and outdoor shots are being taken, an ideal ISO would be 100. The higher the
ISO, the more light the camera would need.
For indoor shots without a flash when its not well lit up, the ISO ought to be set typically to 800 or
higher so that the shutter speed is sufficiently high to allow you to hold your camera with your hand.
With a high ISO, pictures may appear grainy which does not look good if the color of the picture is
either red or orange. Therefore, using the lowest ISO possible is advisable.
Mundane Photos
Uniqueness in photography is what matters. A photograph ought to be attractive and a cut above the
rest. A reasonably good photograph is expected of anyone but surely there is a difference between a
lackluster photograph and one that is exceptional. A photograph is exceptional when its taken
skillfully. Every photography enthusiast should explore, discover and pursue their unique own styles.
A photographer should not shun challenges so as to remain in one's comfort zone. Instead, one should
rise up to the occasion and meet the challenge head on. Travel photography goes a long way in
creating interesting and unique shots. Inspiration in photography can be found everywhere, near and
far and even in ones backyard. One has to have an eye for detail.
Post Processing
With post processing, complacency sets in as the inclination to be perfect would be to be less than
inspired while taking a shot and to rely more on post processing to set things right. Prior to taking a
shot, appropriate and recommended camera settings should be adhered to. A test photo could be taken
to make sure that lighting, composition, white balance and exposure are all perfect for the shot.
Lighting in particular needs to be proper as insufficient lighting cannot be fixed by post processing.
To save time on post processing, photos need to be analyzed to rectify issues. Correcting mistakes
that arent critical proactively is a far better option than relying on post processing. By doing so, the
composition of photographs would be better and stronger which in turn would improve the skills of a
photographer.
Poor Lighting
Decent lighting is vital to photography. With proper lighting, a reasonably good photograph can
become extraordinary. Outdoor photography turns out to be the best in the early morning or late
evening as there is light for shots of scenes and portraits alike.
Portraits under an overcast sky make for a perfect shot as the light from an overcast sky would create
subjects that are lit evenly, thereby having shadows that are negligible. Indoor shots should not be
taken using flash. Reliance on natural light is advisable.
Contrast
A photograph with a lot of contrast would have two extremes of light: the highlighted area and the
shadowy spot. Photographs that are taken on a bright and sunny day are the ones where the contrast is
quite apparent. The dark areas of the image could be filled in by using flash and the image could be
underexposed as well to observe whether it makes any difference whatsoever.
Red Eye
Even though an image editing software would rectify red eye effects, prevention is better than cure.
Light-eyed people are generally prone to red eye due to the reflection of the flash on the retinas of
their eyes. Red eye could be prevented by not using the inbuilt flash of the camera as much as you
might normally do. Some cameras do have an option of reducing red eye automatically; this is known
as the automatic red-eye reduction mode.
The alternative to avoiding red-eye is to have the subject not look into the camera so as that there isnt
any reflection whatsoever. Finally, if the room is bright then that would let light into the pupil of the
subjects eye which would cause them to shrink. However, this may not be a practical solution as it is
easier said than done.
Off Colors
Off-colors, or color casts as they are also known, are a common issue related to digital photography.
The settings with regard to white balance could be used to fix the issue.
Depending on the scenario, the white balance setting should be chosen. An indoor picture may look
orange due to the emission of orange light from the lamp caused by the lamps incandescence. By
adding blue, which is the recommended tungsten setting for such a scenario; it would essentially be in
balance.
background is the point of focus and the foreground has a distraction then the image needs to
be cropped by zooming in so that the item that is a distraction can be avoided.
An image editing software program can do this type of editing work as well. The goal and
objective of this exercise is to ensure that the human eye gravitates to the attractiveness of the
image.
Low Resolution
One advantage of low resolution images is that more images can be stored on a memory card
although its neither advisable nor recommended. The quality of the image would deteriorate
if the image is shot in low resolution. Moreover, large photographs would have noticeable
pixels and hence cannot be printed.
In addition, every time a jpeg file is saved, the quality of the file will suffer. If the file isnt
big to begin with then there wont be too many options for editing. Taking high resolution
photographs with memory cards that have huge storage capacities may be better to consider
than taking photographs on low resolution to save on memory storage.
Excess Noise
Noise in digital photography and grain on a film are similar to one another. An image could
have these specks of what may appear as dust particles to an untrained eye. If the ISO is high
there will be more noise. As the image is enlarged, more noise will appear.
Images at night are susceptible to noise as its a struggle for the camera to capture detail.
Noise can be reduced by selecting the highest setting for image quality. By using the lowest
ISO setting, the image would not be blurred as the camera would be mounted on a
tripod.
Underexposed Photographs
An image that is extremely dark is underexposed as the sensor did not receive sufficient light
while the shot was taken. If the LCD display shows the image as being dark, which means the
image is underexposed, then the aperture could be opened to let as much light in as possible.
The exposure on a DSLR could be adjusted with the + which would add more light. This is
normally done in increments of 1/2 stop each.
Overexposed Photographs
If the photograph happens to be extremely bright and lacks detail then the photograph is
overexposed. What this essentially means is that the sensor is exposed to light more than is
required. When the day is bright, overexposure could be detrimental.
Overexposure could also be detrimental when the subject is light colored. Overexposure
could be reduced by selecting either /0.5 or -0.1 and observing whether or not the finer details
in the section are intact. Spot metering works best to ensure that the results are accurate. An
area which has plenty of gray mid-tones needs to be picked on the image as a guideline.
Owners Manual
Granted, reading the owner s manual is not like reading a novel. Owner s manuals are normally
written in a way that is cut and dry and there is no beating around the bush. Hence they arent userfriendly by any stretch of the imagination. Not that its surprising that there are many authors who
actually write these manuals on how these cameras ought to be used. Some authors might not have
even used the cameras that they are actually writing about.
Gear
One tool should be right for the job. If pictures of all of the products that need to be used with your
camera are be uploaded on a retail site like eBay then the product would be too high-end unless and
complicated for use. Normally a point and shoot camera would suffice. If you see too many parts on a
product then it may not be the right option for you to use because it would not be all that easy to use
and may even be far more expensive than what you might be willing to spend on such a camera.
Backing Up Images
This may sound too obvious but nonetheless it is essential to back up images prior to erasing or
deleting them as once the images are erased, they are gone forever. There are file recovery programs
though that may be able to recover or salvage pictures that may have been erased or deleted but they
cant be relied upon every single time.
Lack of Batteries
If there is no power then the camera is nothing but a paper weight. There are some paper weights that
are heavier and then there are some that are relatively lighter. Only those cameras that are compatible
with AA batteries are the ones that are recommended.
Proprietary batteries are alright also but sufficient spare batteries should be available. A card reader
rather than a computer to transfer images is advisable because by using this, the battery will have a
longer life.
Rule of Thirds
Not following the rule of thirds is a problem in digital photography that people constantly get into.
The underlying premise of this rule is that the eye of a human being is by nature inclined to focus on
points of intersection that can be seen due to the image being split into three different sections.
The rule of thirds is in essence two imaginary lines vertically and horizontally making three columns
and rows and nine sections on an image. Vital elements of composition and leading lines are put in
place on or in proximity from the imaginary lines and at intersection points.
With the rule of thirds in mind the composition of the photograph is best done in the camera to avoid
having to crop later and retain the image as much as possible and to avoid sacrificing quality of
photographs as well.
photographer. This system has one advantage as the mirror is stationary to eliminate vibration. Its
main disadvantage and indeed a flaw that could turn out to be fatal for indoor shots and for
photography in poor light is that very little light reaches the eye of the photographer so much so that
the photographer may find it difficult to compose and focus properly as the subject may appear dark.
Single lens reflex film cameras and professional digital cameras are equipped with swinging mirrors
capable of reflecting 100% of the light to the eye of the photographer while the image is being
composed. As soon as the shutter release is pressed, the mirror swings so as not to hinder the
viewfinder from being blacked out momentarily until 100% of the light reaches the film or image
sensor. Thereafter the mirror swings back in so that the photographer can continue viewing the
subject. When shutter speeds are fast, the mirror will be invisible to the photographer.
An inexpensive and less complicated viewing solution at eye level is the optical glass viewfinder
which most digital cameras are equipped with. Made of clear glass, it may see something but it does
not show what the lens sees. Instead it gravitates to the lenss top or the side.
The biggest advantages are that no power is required, there arent any moving components and its
brightness is unparalleled. The system isn't impacted by inaccuracy as it usually shows quite a bit less
than what actually has been captured. Still, this may lead to elements on the edges of the photograph.
The cause of parallax is positioning the viewfinder 1 or 2 from the lens. Thus the angle from which
the viewer sees the subject is a little different when compared with the lens. This hardly matters while
shooting distant shots but for relatively closer shots the difference between the viewer s angle and the
angle from which the shot is actually taken increases. Macro shots are typically within 12 of the
subject or closer; glass viewfinders are practically useless due to the parallax error being very high.
The optical viewfinder is replaced by a far more advanced viewfinder which is the electronic eye
level viewfinder equipped with a small high resolution color monitor that consumes minimum power
and can be viewed when the camera is held at eye level. Over and above what most electronic
viewfinders have to offer in terms of direct and viewing in detail which brings clarity as to whether
or not a subject is in focus. Electronic viewfinders display vital statistics with regard to the settings of
the camera including f-stop, shutter speed, flash status, so on and so forth.
An electronic eye level viewfinder undeniably is popular but its also unpopular in equal measure due
to its disadvantage. The technology has not been tried and tested enough in still digital cameras as it
has been in camcorders and therefore is in its incubation stage. Hence in terms of brightness, clarity
and responsiveness, a traditional optical viewfinder is a far better option.
Ability to Adapt
Lenses can be changed on DSLRs which in itself is a window of opportunity for photo enthusiasts.
DSLRs in comparison with point and shoot are far more flexible in terms of the range of premium
quality lenses that are included from wide angle to super long focal lengths which can be used based
on what the photographer is shooting. In addition to the lenses that are available, there is also an
entire gamut of accessories, flashes, filters, etc. that are available. Hence DSLRs are adaptable to any
situation or circumstance. Point to be noted; with regard to your choice of lenses, DSLRs have an
unparalleled reputation. The qualities of lenses that are used can directly influence the quality of the
image.
Speed
Normally DSLRs are quite fast cameras in terms of startup, focusing and shutter lag.
Optical Viewfinder
As DSLRs are equipped with reflex mirrors they operate based on the WYSWYG, or what you see is
what you get, principle.
Manual Controls
There are many point and shoot cameras which are equipped with manual mode of shooting.
However, a DSLRs design is such that the user would be inclined to control settings manually. DSLRs
are equipped with auto modes as well but since the manual controls are at a photographer s fingertips,
they are far more accessible than auto modes. Hence its far more convenient for a photographer to
set the controls manually while shooting.
Retaining Value
Arguably DSLRs in comparison with point and shoot cameras would be valuable for a long time to
come. In all probability there is truth in this speculation. In fact, the lenses that are bought along with
the camera are compatible and universal in the sense that as long as one does not change brands, the
lenses can be used on other cameras as well. Hence the lenses can be used for a long time to come and
the investment is not a waste after all.
Depth of Field
In many ways DSLRs are versatile cameras. Depth of field in particular is really referring to extended
manual control when you adjust the photos you shoot. DSLR has the flexibility of using varied lenses
as well but what makes the camera special is its depth of field which has the ability of taking
everything from the foreground and putting them in the background and in focus. Blurred
backgrounds may be created at this point to create an extra effect.
Quality Optics
There is no denying that the quality of lenses of DSLRs does vary but generally DSLR lenses in
comparison with point and shoot are of a higher standard. There is more glass in these optics, thus
making the lenses of high quality. A lot of man hours are spent to manufacture the lenses particularly
when the lenses are high end lenses. Nothing but the best quality lenses ought to be purchased.
However, if the camera is a high-end model then the lens ought to be high-end as well.
Price
Price obviously takes precedence over other factors while looking for a suitable DSLR camera. Some
models may be found for thousands of dollars each. Having a budget for a purchase is a wise
decision but the budget should not be rigid as there are additional costs involved apart from the cost
of the camera.
It's particularly best to go with upgrading lenses than lit lenses.
All DSLRs come with a single battery but a spare battery is required for traveling
purposes.
The memory card that comes with most models does not have enough memory, hence the
need for an upgrade of memory to at least a gigabyte on average.
A camera bag would be included with the camera but that to a great extent depends on the
dealer. Some dealers give camera bags and some dont. The bag though is not of a high
standard as its complimentary; to protect the DSLR camera, the best quality bag should be
bought separately from the camera itself.
A UV filter is needed for each lens that is purchased. Other types of filters could be
considered later on as well.
Opinions vary on extended warranties whether they are good or bad but nonetheless they
should be considered.
Size
DSLRs are sizable than one of those compact point and shoot cameras but there is a fair amount of
size variants as well. Carrying heavy gear for some photographers is not an issue at all but for
photography on the go though, travels, bushwalking, etc. lighter models are more convenient.
Previous Gear
The best thing about DSLRs is that in most cases they can be used with the existing gear that one may
already have. Hence they are compatible.
A case in point is with the lenses. More often than not, the lens that is used on a film SLR could be
used on a DSLR as well if both the lenses are made by the same manufacturer. It would be wrong to be
under the assumption that all lenses would be compatible, older gear in particular. Nonetheless the
question should be asked just so that a considerable amount could be saved.
The memory card of a point and shoot camera can be compatible with a DSLR as well. This in all
likelihood would probably not be a major issue as memory cards are quite a bit cheaper than what the
price used to be but nonetheless it is a point worth considering.
Resolution
Photography enthusiasts and those who arent can be are curious about megapixel of a camera. The
emphasis on megapixels is perhaps more than is required but nonetheless its a point to be taken into
consideration as there are a wide array of megapixel ratings on DSLRs. Megapixels have a role to
play in deciding how images would be used. If enlargements need to be printed then the more pixels
the better. On the contrary, if the size of the image is going to be small then the number of pixels isn't
going to be much of a concern.
Sensor Size
Another question in relation to resolution that needs to be considered is the size of the image sensor.
More often than not, crop factor is a terminology that linked with image sensor size. Simply put,
there are advantages of a lager sensor compared to a smaller one.
Future Upgrades
If future upgrades are not a possibility then entry level DSLRs can be affordable but they become
obsolete quickly when compared with high end models. Moreover there is the possibility of venturing
to purchase a professional camera to suit the needs of a professional photographer. Your level of
expertise and your desire to keep moving on in this field are critical to your decision for what type of
camera you need to use.
Burst Mode
This is a feature worth exploring on many cameras. It is the ability to shoot images one after the other
in quick succession by keeping the shutter release pressed. This works just fine for sports and action
photography. Not all DSLRs can shoot the same number of frames but they can shoot on a per second
mode and on burst mode as well. This is where the camera shoots multiple images in a single burst.
ISO Ratings
Like maximum shutter speed, most DSLRs would offer a decent range of ISO settings. There are a
few DSLRs though that have advanced features and offer ISO settings for low light photography as
well.
LCD Size
Even a difference in size of half an inch is a noticeable difference in terms of the LCD screen on a
camera. It hardly makes any difference though in the way photos are shot but it would be nice to be
able to watch shots even on a slightly bigger screen.
Anti-Shake
Anti-shake is a new and emerging technology that has been implemented in newer cameras. While
lenses are equipped with image stabilization technology, the fact that cameras are being built with
anti-shake technology is truly an advancement in leaps and bounds because it protects the camera
from physical shakes.
Connectivity
You have to think about what you are going to do to transmit photos from the camera into a computer
or directly onto a printer. A USB port can be used in most cases. Firewire and wireless connectivity
options are also options.
Semi-Auto Modes
Just like point and shoot cameras, most DSLRs, the low end ones in particular, are equipped with
multiple shooting modes like the portrait, sport and night choices. By using these modes on a point
and shoot camera, one would know how to use them on a low end DSLR as the high end ones
generally dont have these features except on a few may be.
Flash
Normally professional level DSLRs arent equipped with inbuilt but models for beginners will have
it. You might want to think about your flash needs when finding a camera like this.
These are features worth exploring when finding ways to get your DSLR camera to do more for you.
Using a Remote
A camera could be controlled by the remote itself. If the camera has an inbuilt infrared receiver, a
remote could either be built or bought so that the shutter could be clicked from a distance.
Building a remote could be fun on a weekend but there isnt any cost advantage. It could in fact be a
hobby for someone who is a keen and avid electronics expert. A more functional remote could
perhaps be made than bought.
Most people though would prefer buying a no-frills remote. Clicking the shutter remotely with a twosecond delay is all that these remotes can do but thats all that is needed anyway.
This is a cheap and simple option for self-portraits, group photography or to get the camera ready
and the shutter is pressed from a distance. Remote photography is possible, but all facets of the
camera cant be controlled remotely.
Chapter 12 - Modes
While choosing a shooting mode, you have to carefully think about which creative aspect which depth
of field or motion and which exposure mode would be selected. Decisions related to creativity are
best left to the camera but everything could be handled personally as well.
The advanced shooting modes are as follows:
is available is enough for the correct exposure at the chosen shutter speed. Most SLRs would provide
some sort of indication or signal and if the shutter speed selected is one of the two extremes, either
too fast or too slow for sufficient exposure, shutter speed should be different.
Manual
In manual mode the aperture, shutter speed and often the ISO are set manually. Normally auto ISO
isnt available in manual mode. Even though the metered standard exposure is displayed on the
exposure meter, the exposure could be set however one wants. Manual mode works best for those
photographers who seek the freedom of diversion from the recommended exposure. Its also superb
when the settings are unchanged for a series of shots.
Manual mode is used by most professional photographers. There are certain lighting situations that
are confusing even to the most sophisticated automatic exposure metering system. This is where
manual mode is suitable. This mode is meant for experienced photographers. Manual exposure can be
exceptional when the contrast in relation to the subject is high and the light in the background is
strong. It is also effective to further enhance a certain mood.
Bulb
Bulb is a variation of the manual mode with which shutter speed can be lengthened by exceeding the
cameras setup. Bulb mode is a special type of Manual mode that lets you lengthen the shutter speed
beyond your camera's built-in limit which normally is 30 seconds.
As the shutter button is pressed, the shutter opens and closes when released. For long shutter speeds, a
bulb is ideal. It also works during night time photography or in low light situations. It's equally ideal
for shooting storms, lightning, fireworks, etc. Without the B setting on the mode dial, the other
alternative is to enter manual mode and lengthen the shutter speed until B or bulb appears.
Mode Dial
A mode dial, a setting which is also known as a camera dial, is nothing but a simple dial that is used
on digital cameras to change the mode of the camera. Most digital cameras, including DSLR and SLR
cameras, support modes selected either by a dial or from a menu. On point-and-shoot cameras that
support modes, a veritable range of scene types is available. On DSLR and SLR cameras alike,
manual settings can be accessed normally by mode dials.
The point-and-shoot cameras which are comparatively more compact and cameras that offer a lot of
modes often don't have these dials as they use menus instead. There are a few SLR lenses that can
control aperture to reduce the need for support from modes in the body of the camera.
The mode dial on most DSLRs and SLR bridge cameras can be found on the top of the camera on one
side of the flash or viewfinder. On point-and-shoot cameras, the mode dial does not have a standard
location.
The mode dial on most models can be found on top as it is found on DSLRs as well. On point-andshoots with thin bodies in particular, the dial can be found on the back of the camera often along with
a menu-navigation button. A few thin cameras can also use a slide switch instead of a dial.
Most DSLRs have only a few manual settings and a small sampling of automatic modes. Most SLR
cameras also have manual modes and multiple automatic scene modes. All manual controls on pointand-shoot cameras could be compressed into one mode known as aperture shutter priority or could
be absent.
Compact cameras show a wide array of scene modes. Point-and-shoot and SLR digital cameras
normally have movie modes for capturing videos and modern DSLRs these days support movie
modes as well.
metering modes of the camera would deal with the scene in a unique way and the photographer gets to
decide the best mode to use in relation to the scene.
What would be the best exposure can be found out by setting the digital SLR to a specific metering
mode out of the 3 or 4 unique metering modes (the actual number that you will have to use will
depends on the manufacturer of the camera that you have).
With that in mind, let's take a look at a few of these critical metering models to get an idea of what
you can expect out of your digital camera.
With the spot metering mode, an emphasis will be placed on the control that you have to work with.
There is control over where light for exposure is measured as only about 4% of the viewfinder is
covered. This happens to be the smallest area among all metering modes.
The biggest advantage of spot metering is that the spot could be rooted on any one of many autofocusing points within the viewfinder and therefore the flexibility is greater with regards to the point
of the scene that is to be metered. With spot metering, a specific area can be metered to highlight as
much detail as possible. Hence it is ideal for portraits where reflection from the subjects face is
directly metered.
A slow shutter speed could result in motion blur if the camera is hand held. Even if the camera were
to be mounted on a tripod at slow shutter speeds of half a second or more, such as the one used at
night, there might be some blur due to camera shake.
Hence, in very dark conditions a slow shutter speed is recommended but slow shutter speeds could
cause motion blur as well. In brighter conditions, a faster shutter speed is required which will have the
effect of freezing motion. This can be a good thing or a bad thing. For a longer exposure during the
daytime, an ND filter could be used.
In terms of light three settings can be adjusted and they are aperture, ISO speed or shutter speed as
compensation for varying degrees of strengths of light. If either one of them is adjusted anyone of
them would have a positive or negative effect on the image.
Fixed lenses of various sizes have different focal lengths; zoom lenses have a variable focal length.
The focal length could be defined as the distance in mm between the elements of a lens and the film or
sensor. The viewpoints are unique for each focal length.
The standard 50mm lens is almost similar to the sharp central field of view of the human eye. This is
especially if pairing is done with 35mm film or a full-frame sensor. However, most digital SLR
sensors are smaller than regular 35mm film. Therefore, the effective focal lengths are multiplied by
about 1.5 on most digital SLRs for what is called FOV cropping.
Wide-angle lenses are 28mm lenses and can be useful as they will have a lot of room to help you fit a
lot of the shot onto the sensor. The view of a wide angle lens will have an impression that is created
by a wide angle lens that the object is being looked at from a distance. It is therefore ideal for taking
pictures of small rooms as they look bigger, landscapes, etc. Substances on the edge of the frame
would appear elongated. When subjects are very close to a wide angle lens they would look big but
the background area still looks vast. When the background in general has a sweeping view then a
wide angle lens is better.
A telephoto lens is normally 80mm or longer and can bring things closer. Hence, a telephoto lens is
ideal for portraits as it compels the photographer to be farther away from the subject. However, for
the same amount of light to pass through a telephoto lens as it passes through a smaller lens, the
telephoto lens has to be a lot bigger.
An extreme 200-500mm f/2.8 zoom lens can weigh nearly 35 pounds and is still nearly twice as slow
as the 50mm lenses of 30 years ago. In addition, most consumer rated telephoto lenses tend to be slow
which means its aperture in relation to the focal length is relatively small in comparison with a
smaller lens which leads to using longer shutter speeds if in a low-light situation.
This can be compensated with faster ISO speeds. Wide aperture lenses are expensive and are heavy.
More often than not it's actually better to buy the cheaper variety which will be attached to the camera
even if that means it is a little bit noisier and you will have to bear with a high ISO setting. The cheap
ones are equipped with apertures that are 5.6 or smaller which are normally required for a noticeable
depth of field. If the depth of field is shallow, an expensive wide-aperture lens could be used, or
simply a longer-focus moderate-aperture lens can be added provided that you move back. These
choices could be used until the subject is the same size.
Zoom lenses could have distortions of such proportions that it is capable of making straight lines
look crooked or typically curved at the highest zoom level in particular. Some cameras are capable of
automatically altering the images to compensate.
A flash can be used in many ways. SLRs generally automatically control the output of inbuilt flash, or
an external flash with maximum power, to spread light evenly across a subject. A flash is at reduced
power by applying negative flash exposure compensation in sunlight to soften but not remove
shadows that define shape.
Flash can be used in dim light to make the scene brighter. A flash can be bounced off the ceiling with
the help of an external unit that would softly light a big area. The part of an exposure coming from a
flash is very brief; therefore, aperture and ISO setting basically determine the exposure but not shutter
speed which is normally limited to 1/250 or even slower due to the way a focal plane shutters.
A slow shutter speed is the cause of loss of ambiance in the scene and it makes the ambient light
conspicuous by its absence. As a result, the scene is blurred due to the camera shakes or the subject
being in motion. In other words there is noticeable subject movement on a long exposure.
A Polarizing Filter
A circular polarizer is compatible with autofocus lenses and is useful under the sun as it reduces glare
and makes colors bright by reducing the effects of reflected sunlight to make the sky dark blue. By
rotating it in its mount, a maximum effect can be derived. Cheap ones are fine but it needs to be
verified as to whether or not they are coated or even multi-coated to reduce the images reflection
spots. The threads should be cut to a high standard as anything short of high quality could damage the
threads in the lens more so if the filter threads in the lens are made of plastic.
The camera may need to process JPEG images in addition to the semi-processed raw files. Part of the
processing setup for the raw images requires the images to be adjusted for colors so that the
brightest, fully reflective objects seem white instead whether they are being lit by an artificial light or
if they are being taken under a clear and bright open sky.
Everything else may appear to have the proper mix of colors under sunlight or to a naked eye. The
white balance setting does just that. Automatic white balance (AWB) more often than not isnt
effective enough. It is a setting for the type of light that is dominant in the scene. Some cameras can
automatically adjust to any color of light.
sources in a spot, the flash required, whether the camera needs to be stable on a tripod to prevent
camera shake due to insufficient light and many others are some of the questions that needs to be
asked and answered satisfactorily prior to taking a shot.
Chapter 15 - Accessories
Out of the multitude of accessories that are out there, some are a necessity while others are simply
occupying space in the camera bag.
Neck Strap
Neck straps that come with cameras typically do not have pads and are made of fabric that is
irritating. Hence an upgrade of the neck-strap is essential. Neoprene is the raw material that the strap
can be made from and it works like a shock absorber while carrying a DSLR which would more than
likely have a long lens. A fabric that does not slip can be kept on the underside which would keep the
camera in place when slung around the shoulder.
Camera Bag
A camera bag with padding is an absolute necessity when carrying a DSLR as the bag is a protection
for the camera which is an investment that needs to be protected. There is enough room for extra
lenses and other accessories and paraphernalia which can all be kept in the bag.
Dust Blower
Tiny dust particles accumulate on lenses and on cameras sensor. Hence a dust removal kit is a
necessity for quality photos. Air in air tight cans is effective but is pricey and too heavy to carry. A
dust blower ought to be durable, powerful, and easy to use. All it takes is a few blasts and dust would
fly in the air. An upright position and air valve may be used to keep dust from getting in. It may also
be battery powered to ensure that you don't have to plug it into anything in particular.
Polarizer Filter
A polarizer is an appropriate solution to help you reduce reflections on glass and other shiny objects
while further deepening blue skies simultaneously and intensifying color saturation. Quality
polarizers would have coatings on the glass so that reflection is reduced. This can also keep dirt and
scratches at bay.
adjustability options.
Conclusion
Thank you again for downloading this book!
I hope this book was able to help you to see how DSLR cameras work and how they can be used for
your general needs. You can see how these cameras may be used for a variety of different types of
needs and how you can take your cameras ready for all sorts of particular needs.
The next step is to take a look at the different kinds of cameras that you can find today. If you go to
any technology store then you'll find plenty of DSLR options to call your own.
Thank you and good luck!