Pigmenti Kdkkfjperlescenti

Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application:
Special Effects!
Elena Nunno
Account Manager Cosmetic
Merck KGAA
Perlescent Pigments: daily used.
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Perlescent Pigments: daily used.
Cosmetic Colorants
Dyes (Colorants)
Color Pigments
Soluble in the application medium;

transparent
Insoluble in the application medium;

opaque
D&CRed#21
D&CRed#27
D&COrange#5
Color Pigments
Al/Ba/Ca Lakes
FD&C Yellow 5 Al Lake (CI 19140:1)
D&C Red 27 Al Lake (CI 45410:2)
D&C Orange 5 Al Lake (CI 45370:2)
D&C Red 6 Ba Lake (CI 15858:2)
D&C Red 7 Ca Lake (CI 15850:1)
Colorants
Color Pigments
Insoluble in the application medium;
D&C Red 36 (CI 12085)

D&C Orange #17 (CI 12075)
D&C RED#30 (CI73360)
opaque
Inorganics Pigments
Colored
Iron Oxides
Chromium Dioxide
Ultramarines
Manganese Violet
Ferric Ferrocyanide
White
Titanium Dioxide
Zinc Oxide
Pearl pigments
Color Pigments: Interactions with Light

optical effects
Perlescent Pigments
Metallic Colors: silver E174

gold E175
Absorption Colors:
titanium dioxide E171
iron oxide E172
carbon black E153
insoluble color lakes
pearl effect results from:

reflection, refraction,
interference, transmission
metallic gloss (mirror effect)

caused by total reflection
of light in a certain angle
light absorption and

undirected reflection
Merck KGaA PM PC Candurin
Perlescent Pigments: Composition and

Characteristics
Composition
- transparent and inert color carrier

- metal oxides like titanium dioxide and/or iron
oxides
- e.g. plus organic/inorganic colorants
Particle size
Thickness
- 5 - 200 m diameter
- approx. 0.1 - 0.5 m (crude silicate)
Characteristics of Pearl Pigments
Layer-substrate pigments = even platelets

Substrate: Mica (SiO2-Flakes, Ca-Al-Borosilicate-Flakes, Al2O3-Flakes,
Synthetic Mica)
Inorganic coating: Titanium Dioxide
Iron Oxides
Chromium Oxide
Organic coating:
Carmine
Ferric Ferrocyanide
Metal oxide
substrate
Pearlescent Luster in Nature (I)
Incident Light
Proteins
CaCO3
Reflection path through CaCO3 and proteins

layers of a natural pearl
Pearlescent Luster in Nature (II)
To obtain the pearl effect:

- Semi transparent material
- Smooth and plane surface
- Refractive index different from the medium
- Light!
Pearlescent Luster in Nature (III)
soap bubble
air: n = 1
air: n = 1
water layer, stabilized by tensides
n = 1.3
Pearlescent Luster in Nature (IV)
Interference colors are based on refractive index and thickness of materials
Refractive index
Color shift
Oil film on water
Water:
Oil:
1,33
> 1,33
Thickness deviation
Interference colors
Pearlescent Luster
Incident light
Metal oxide layer
Multiple reflection
Pearl like effect
Substrate
Transmitted light
SEM Picture of Mica Based Pigments
potassium aluminium silicate/

mica (E555)
titanium dioxide (E171)

and/or
iron oxide (E172)
Substrates
Natural
Synthetic
Mica
Synthetic
Mica
Silica
Alumina
Glass
Classic/wide use
Hiding power
Transparency
Color
Travel
Sparkle
Performance
Transparency
Gloss
Muscovite Mica
Pearl Luster Pigments Manufacturing

Process
milling
natural silicate,
mica (E555)
classification
particle size:
<15 - 150m
TiO2/Fe2O3
precipitation
washing/filtration
high temperatures
calcination
drying
Effect versus Particle Size
Particle Size
Effect
1-15 m
satin gloss
5-20 m
silky gloss
10-50 m
brilliant shine
10-130 m
sparkle effect
40-200 m
glittering
Example
Timiron Supersheen MP-1001

Timiron Starluster MP-115
Timiron Diamond Cluster MP-149
Selecting the right particle size
Particle size
small (25 m)
medium (60 m)
Pearl effect
Color coverage
satiny
very good
brilliant
good
glittering
low
large (150 m)
Effect versus Particle Size
Small particles (<15m) for silky and satiny effects

enhance the coverage of the formulation
opacify the mass
Coarser particles (100 - 500m) create high lustrous effects
sparkling and glittering
very high brilliancy and transparency
coarse particles good reflection

small particles
lustrous
scattering centers high coverage
Interference Pigments (I)
40-60 nm
60-80 nm
Silver
TiO2
mica
Name
80-100 nm
100-140 nm
120-160 nm
Gold
TiO2
Red
Blue
Green
TiO2
TiO2
TiO2
mica
mica
mica
mica
Particle size
Gamme Timiron Silk
5 - 25 m
Timiron Splendid Blue;

Gold
10 - 60 m
Gamme Timiron Starlight 10 - 125 m
Gloss effect and coverage

Interference color
in formulation and application
silky luster
Gold, Red, Blue, Green
medium hiding power
pearl luster
Gold, Copper, Red, Violet, Blue, Green
medium hiding power
shimmering luster
Gold, Red, Blue, Green
low hiding power
Interference Pigments (II)

TiO2coating
mica
Green
Blu
Red
Yellow
Silver
d2 > d1
d2
d1
variation of the optical path

length (d n2)
change of the reflected wavelength
different interference pearl colors
Interference Pigments (III)
white light
TiO2
silver gold
red
blue
green II green III
reaction time
Metallic Pigments
Metallic Color Luster Pigments
Red-Green
Bronze
Copper
Red
Red-Violet
Fe2O3
Fe2O3
Fe2O3
Fe2O3
Fe2O3
Mica
Mica
Mica
Mica
Mica
Colorona Copper
Specific color due to coating material & coating thickness
Color Pigments
Color Luster Pigments
Fe2O3
Iron Blue
Cr2O3
Carmine
TiO2
TiO2
TiO2
TiO2
Mica
Mica
Mica
Mica
Colorona Precious
Gold
Colorona Carmine Red
Colorona Dark Blue
Colorona Majestic Green
Substrates
natural
Mica
Classic/wide use
Hiding power
synthetic
Synthetic
Mica
Transparency
Silica
Alumina
Glass
BiOCl
Color
Travel
Sparkle
Performance
Transparency
Gloss
Skin feel
Compressibility
Syntetic Substrates
Al2O3 flakes
Ca-Al-Borosilicate flakes
SiO2 flakes
Metal oxide
Synthetic Fluorphogopite
Benefits:
Substrate is produced synthetically
Precise control of the substrate properties
Substrate
Al2O3 Substrate + Pigments
Al2O3 flakes
Metal oxide
Al2O3
Al2O3 flakes coated with metal oxide
SiO2 Flake Substrate + Pigments
SiO2 Flakes
SiO2 Flake coated with metal oxide
Metal oxide
SiO2
Xirona Caribbean Blue
Properties of SiO2 Flake Substrate

and SiO2 based Pigments
Uniform and precisely controllable substrate thickness
Smooth and regular surface
Transparent without masstone
Own interference color
Improved light reflection and refraction
A c olo r tra ve l e ffe c t is vis ib le o n ly b y c h a n g in g th e

vie w in g a n g le !
S iO 2 fla k e
m e t a l o x id e
SiO2 based Pigments
Improved color purity
Color travel properties (angle-dependent)
Ca-Al-Borosilicate Substrate
Properties of Ca-Al-Borosilicate
based Pigments
High brilliance
High gloss
Nice skin
feeling
Multi-color
effect
Ca-Al-Borosilicate-flake
Protective layer
< 1 m
20 200 m
Metal oxide layer
Pure and
Full colors
Very high
Transparency
RONASTAR NOBLE
SPARKS
Synthetic Mica Substrate
Chemical composition
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
TiO2
SnO2
Particle size
20.0 180.0 m (80% in range)
Extraordinary brilliant sparkle

Clean white masstone
Balanced transparency/coverage
Surprisingly good skin feel
High metallic luster
TIMIRON ICE CRYSTAL;

TIMIRON SYNWHITE 40
Possible Combinations of Pigments
pure pigment
Interference pigments
Silverwhite pigments
Gold pigments
Color Luster pigments
Color Travel pigments
on a black background
plus colorants (in-org.
or org. dye or pigment)
pigment mixture
exception:
complementary
interference pigments
Color Mixing Rules ...
In case of interference pigments, consider color mixing rules (no subtractive mixing, but additive
mixing!)
Absorption pigments = subtractive color mix
yellow + blue = green
Interference pigments = additive color mix
yellow + blue = white
Influence of Various Amounts of Absorption

Pigments on the Resulting Pearlescent Effect
absorption-dull effect
m
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o
am
ts
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pearlescent-shine effect
un
Interaction with Light Absorbing Ingredients
incoming light
transparent
film
pigment platelet; reflected light
e.g. absorption pigment; reflected light
Influence of the Product Surface
reflected
reflected light
light
incoming light
rough product surface
smooth product surface
pigment platelets
Major Applications
Color (decorative) Cosmetics

design/modify the visual appearance of face, body and hair
Examples are: eyeshadows, eyeshadow gels, lipsticks, lipgloss,

foundations, nail lacquers, ...
Personal Care Cosmetics (Toiletries)

natural structure and function of the skin/hair should be adhered, e.g. cleansing,
care and protection
Examples are: lotions, creams, shampoos, soaps, tooth gels, styling gels,
...
Differences between Color and Care Cosmetics
Target group
Buying intention
Color cosmetics
Care products
Limited to women & girls
Male and female population
Additional / luxurious product /

Sense of fashion
Necessity / personal hygiene
Relation between color shade

and buying intention
Styling and indulgence
Differences between Color and Care Cosmetics
Color cosmetics
Large variety of different product

categories
Big color range in each category
Short duration (seasonal look)
Dependent on fashion trends
Long visibility after application
Care products
Smaller variety of different product categories

Limited coloring potential
Long lasting
Less dependent on fashion trends
Invisible / hardly visible on the skin
Pearl Luster Pigments

Basic Rules for Formulating
Use the most transparent formulation possible
The less opacity the formulation has, the better the pearlescent effect;
therefore, lower pigment concentrations are needed. Opaque formulations
require higher pigment levels, because light scattering decreases
pearlescence.
Avoid grinding and milling of pearlescent pigments
If mechanical stress onto the pigments is too high, the pigment particles might
break or the metal oxide layer might be removed from the substrate, resulting
in loss of luster and color change.
Consider color-mixing rules in case of interference pigments
Absorption pigments mix subtractively, because the visible color is the nonabsorbed portion of light. Interference pigments mix additively, because the
visible color is the reflected portion of light.
Color (decorative) Cosmetics: Main Segments
Eyes
(e.g. eyeshadows, eyeliners, mascara...)
Lips
(e.g. lipsticks, lip gloss,...)
Nails
(e.g. nail lacquers)
Hair
(e.g. styling mousse, hair wax, styling gels )
Face
(e.g. foundations, concealers, blushers,)
Personal Care: Main Segments
Skin care
(e.g. moisturizers, lotions, creams, oils, gels,)
Hair care
(e.g. shampoos, conditioners, styling products,

coloring products ...)
Body care
(e.g. soap bars, liquid soaps, bath crystals,

body washes, shower gels, deodorants, ...)
Oral hygiene
(e.g. tooth gels, tooth pastes, mouth washes, ...)
Mens cosmetics
(e.g. shave and after shave products, ...)
Sun care
(e.g. sun lotions and creams,

after sun treatments, self-tanning products,...)
Formulating Pearl Pigments in different

Applications
Addition of pearl pigments to formulations without problems

Applicable for all cosmetic applications
disperse in water or oil/wax phase

no side reactions with other raw materials
pH-stability (only some exceptions)
Powders
add pearls after / with addition of binder
Dispersions (e.g. nail polish)
add pearls after addition of color solutions

no tendency to agglomerate
Overview Formula Categories

Emulsion
Face cream, body lotion, foundation, mascara, fluid-eyeliner
Stick
Lipstick, foundation & eyeshadow, pencil
Powder
Facepowder, blush, eyeshadow
Paste
Blush, lip-gloss, compact-foundation, cream-eyeshadow
Dispersion
Nail polish
Gel
Shower gel, liquid soap, hair gel, shampoo
Emulsions
Effect versus Concentration
Recommended
pigment concentration
Effect
Aesthetic
Improvement of product appearance delivers a more
elegant and/or luxurious effect for skin care and makeup formulations.No coloring of the skin.
0.05 0.5 %
Functional
Providing additionally a coloring effect on the skin
similar to color cosmetic products.
0.5 4.0 %
Visual Effects in Emulsions
Body cream with 3% pigment; l.t.r Ronastar Golden Sparks - Timiron Silk Gold - Colorona Bronze Fine
Stabilization of Pearl Pigments

In highly viscous systems, pearl luster pigments are stable within the
base. Only in systems of very low viscosity pearl luster pigments have to
be stabilized against sedimentation. Pearl pigments usually do not require
additional suspension agents in foundations. The concentration of
thickeners depends on the final viscosity and can vary from 0.5 to 1.5 %.
Cream with Blue Interference Pigment
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application:

Special Effects!
Cream with Violet Interference Pigment
Formulating with Pearl Pigments Emulsion:

Pigment Addition before
water phase:
addition of pearl pigment
emulsifying
cooling down
Avoid excessive homogenization!
Formulating with Pearl Pigments Emulsion:

Pigment Addition after
emulsifying / homogenizing
cooling down
Work under vacuum, stir slowly to avoid introduction of air
Stick Formulations
Waxes
10-25%
Oils
40-65%
may contain volatiles
0-30%
Pearlescent pigments
0-20%
Color pigments
3-15%
Functional fillers
0-8%
Additives
q.s.
e.g. actives, SPF, perfume
Formulating with Pearl Pigments

Oil / Wax based Products
oil / wax phase
~80C

(only stirring)
cooling down
Due to their high density pearl luster pigments based on mica may settle down
either in the hot melted lipstick bulk or within the lipstick moulds after pouring.
This can be avoided by stirring continuously during incorporation of the
pigments and by maintaining a low pouring temperature.
Stir during filling to avoid sedimentation!
A high content of pearl pigments in lipstick formulations may cause flow

lines in the finished lipsticks. This can happen if the temperature of the
moulds is not adjusted to the temperature of the lipstick mass. The moulds
should be pre-heated to 50 - 60C.
Recommended usage concentration of pearl luster

pigments to achieve different effects in lipsticks
Desired Effect
Reccomanded
Concentration
Remarks
Subtle pearl effect
1 5%
All particle sizes
Strong pearl and luster

effect
5 15%
All particle sizes
Highlighting, sparkling
effect
1 10%
> 100 microns
Recommended usage concentration of pearl luster

pigments for different lip applications
Finished Product
Level of Use
Lipstick
1 20%
Lip balm
3 5%
Lip gloss
1 5%
Lip lacquer
10 15%
Personal Care
Shower Gels and Shampoos
Formulation Tips for Gel Products

Use the most transparent formulation possible
The less opacity the formulation has, the better is the visible effect, and the
lower is the concentration on pearls needed.
Create your color
Use a colored (water/oil soluble dyes) or non-colored base formulation and
add a small amount of pearl pigments to add shine and highlights.
Effect of particle size
Small particles create silky and satiny effects, opacify the mass and impart
richer appearance. Larger sized particles will provide high luster, sparkling or
glittering effects. The formulation will stay almost transparent.

Water based Products
water
disperse pearlescent pigment
add stabilisator / thickener
Avoid excessive agitation!

Rules to be Considered
Addition of pearl pigments to water or oil phase

Addition of thickeners after pearl pigment
No strong homogenization necessary
Avoid excessive homogenization loss of gloss in case of big particle sized
pigments possible!
Personal Care
Tooth Pastes / Tooth Gels
Usually manufacturers only use pearl pigments to highlight the transparent and colored (red,
blue or green) stripes.
Due to the high light scattering properties of titanium dioxide the pearlescent effect in the
white part will be minimized.
Usage level:
0.1 - 0.6%
Recommended particle size
D90:
>50m (as coarse as possible)
Mercks Brands
Timiron
Silverwhite & interference pigments
Colorona
Pearlescence plus absorption equals color

(Gold, Color Luster, Metallic Color, Two-Tone, Mica Black)
Xirona
Brilliant Color Travel pigments
Ronastar
Pigments with high chroma, sophisticated effects

and clean mass tone

Pigmenti Kdkkfjperlescenti

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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application:

Perlescent Pigments: daily used.

Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!

Perlescent Pigments: daily used.

Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!

Soluble in the application medium;

Insoluble in the application medium;

Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!

D&C Red 36 (CI 12085)

Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!

Color Pigments: Interactions with Light

Metallic Colors: silver E174

Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!

pearl effect results from:

metallic gloss (mirror effect)

light absorption and

Merck KGaA PM PC Candurin

Perlescent Pigments: Composition and

- transparent and inert color carrier

- approx. 0.1 - 0.5 m (crude silicate)

Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!

Characteristics of Pearl Pigments

Layer-substrate pigments = even platelets

Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!

Pearlescent Luster in Nature (I)

Reflection path through CaCO3 and proteins

Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!

Pearlescent Luster in Nature (II)

To obtain the pearl effect:

Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!

Pearlescent Luster in Nature (III)

Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!

Pearlescent Luster in Nature (IV)

Interference colors are based on refractive index and thickness of materials

Oil film on water

Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!

Metal oxide layer

SEM Picture of Mica Based Pigments

potassium aluminium silicate/

titanium dioxide (E171)

Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!

Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!

Pearl Luster Pigments Manufacturing

Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!

Merck KGaA PM PC Candurin

Effect versus Particle Size

Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!

Timiron Supersheen MP-1001

Timiron Diamond Cluster MP-149

Selecting the right particle size

Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!

Merck KGaA PM PC Candurin

Effect versus Particle Size

Small particles (<15m) for silky and satiny effects

coarse particles good reflection

scattering centers high coverage

Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!

Interference Pigments (I)

Gamme Timiron Silk

Timiron Splendid Blue;

Gamme Timiron Starlight 10 - 125 m

Gloss effect and coverage

Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!