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COFFEE ROASTING

PROGRESS ON
COFFEE ROASTING:
A PROCESS CONTROL TOOL FOR A CONSISTENT
ROAST DEGREE ROAST AFTER ROAST
Chahan Yeretzian, Flurin Wieland & Alexia N. Gloess
Zurich University of Applied Science, Institute of Chemistry and Biological Chemistry

Marco Keller, Andreas Wetzel & Stefan Schenker


Bhler AG

A real-time automated process control tool for coffee roasting was developed to
consistently and accurately achieve a targeted roast degree. It is based on timeresolved on-line monitoring of volatile organic compounds (VOC) in the off-gas of a
drum roaster, using Proton-Transfer-Reaction Time-of-Flight Mass-Spectrometry
(PTR-TOF-MS). These experiments provide a detailed, real-time picture of the
evolution of the roasting process with the aim of controlling the process and
consistently achieving a targeted roast degree.

The flavour of a freshly prepared cup of coffee


is the final expression and perceptible result of a
long chain of transformations which link the
seed to the cup. These include agricultural
factors such the variety of the plant, the
chemistry of the soil, the weather and the altitude at which the coffee is grown. Combined
with the way the cherries are picked, further
processed and stored, a green bean is obtained
that contains all the ingredients necessary for
the later development of the typical coffee
aroma. Yet, the green beans give no clue as to
what they might become once roasted. They
have neither the characteristic smell nor
the taste of a good cup of coffee. To reveal the
typical coffee flavour, coffee has to be roasted.
From a scientists point of view, roasting is
the collection of a large number of heat induced
time and temperature dependent physical and
chemical transformations. It turns a hard,
spongy to bite, green / grassy smelling bean into
an intensely fragrant, brittle, and extractable
dark brown bean. These changes, and in
particular the development of the substances
responsible for the smell, taste, and brown
colouration, have still not sufficiently been
elucidated. Therefore, the commonly used

FIGURE 1 A simplified scheme showing the main classes of volatile compounds of roasted coffee formed
from non-volatile precursors in the green beans during roasting

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methods of roasting have largely been found


empirically. In Figure 1, an overview of

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COFFEE ROASTING
TABLE 1 Coffee was roasted applying three different hot-air inlet temperatures (L, low; M, medium; H, high), each to three different roast degrees (L, light;
M, medium; D, dark), yielding a total of nine different time-temperature roasting profiles, each labelled by a two-letter code (first column). For each profile, 3 to 5
roasting trials were performed (# of trials). The total number of trials that were included in the subsequent data analysis (principle component analysis) was 42.
Results are reported as mean values at a 95 per cent confidence level. The roast degree was measured in values of Colorette. FOG is the gas flow in the off-gas line.
The three last columns give the values T1, T2 and T3 for each roast profile, as measured by the respective temperature sensors (see text)

Code
LL
LM
LD
ML
MM
MD
HL
HM
HD

# of trials
4
5
6
5
3
5
5
5
4

hot-air inlet
temperature
low
low
low
medium
medium
medium
high
high
high

roast degree
light
medium
dark
light
medium
dark
light
medium
dark

roasting time / s
1130 25
1199 9
1258 11
831 1
869 14
907 3
546 7
572 8
593 8

roast degree
/ Colorette
109.9 1.2
90.4 0.7
77.5 1.1
110.3 0.9
91.1 0.6
77.8 1.0
109.5 1.4
91.1 1.2
77.9 0.5

mean FOG
/ gs-1
70.4 0.6
68.7 0.5
67.7 0.2
69.6 0.4
70.2 0.5
69.4 0.3
67.6 0.6
67.1 0.5
66.7 0.3

Mean Values at the final time


T1 / C
T2 / C
T3 / C
316.5 0.9
184.6 0.4
179.1 0.5
321.0 1.2
192.2 0.7
185.2 0.7
327.0 1.4
198.9 0.4
189.0 0.3
368.3 0.4
185.7 0.4
183.1 0.5
374.9 1.4
192.7 0.5
188.3 0.2
380.2 0.6
198.3 0.5
191.9 0.2
462.4 1.2
185.9 0.5
185.4 0.4
468.8 1.9
191.4 0.6
188.8 0.4
472.6 0.9
195.4 1.2
191.1 0.7

important chemical transformations leading

process. Indeed, we believe that consistency,

coffee variety and a target flavour profile

from the non-volatile green coffee precursors to

roast after roast, is one of the most important

accomplished, the sign of a good roast-master is

the main classes of volatile compounds formed

criterion of a good roast. Once a specific roasting

the capacity to understand and control the

during roasting are schematically summarised.

process has been established for a given green

relevant raw material and roasting parameters

From a practitioners perspective, roasting


can be regarded as a skill, which sometimes
approaches an art form. It is in essence the
search for the perfect time-temperature path for
a given green coffee raw material to express its
full flavour potential.
From an economic perspective, coffee is the
second most valuable commodity exported by
developing countries second to crude oil1.
With an annual production in 2010 of 133
million bags (60 kg/bag) and an average price of
USD 4.45/kg, this amounts to a total value

RoastMaster20 uniform and efcient coffee roasting to the core. Now


small and medium-sized companies can use cutting-edge roasting technology
by Bhler. The RoastMaster20 comes with a state-of-the-art control system
including a touch screen for comfortable parameter optimization and process
control. The proven drum roasting technology with variable drum speed and
the separate cooling and heating fans assure perfect roasting of every single
bean. High quality materials provide excellent operational reliability and make
the RoastMaster20 the ideal solution for all who ask for nothing less than a
perfect product for a competitive price.

of worldwide traded coffee in 2010 of


USD 35 billion. Coffee is a commodity of high
economic importance for coffee producing as

Bhler AG, Coffee, CH-9240 Uzwil, Switzerland, T +41 71 955 11 11, F +41 71 955 35 82
sc.buz@buhlergroup.com, www.buhlergroup.com

well as for coffee consuming countries.


Most remarkably, coffee has been, next to
cotton, the second most performing commodity

RoastMaster20

of 2010 which has logged an impressive

PLC control system :


Easy-to-use solution with
integrated touch panel,
parameter memory, temperature trend and safety features.

45 per cent return in 2010. There is no doubt that


green coffee is a crop of global, economic
importance. But even the best green coffee can
be spoiled if not properly roasted. Hence,

Flexible roasting profile


for best flavour: Hot-air
system with high proportion
of convective heat transfer
assures uniform roasting of
every single bean for highest
product quality.

roasting is of crucial economic importance and


defines whether the potential in the green
beans is expressed in the cup and also
materialises in economic terms. It is indispensable to consistently master the roasting process

Reliable drum roasting


technology: Variable drum
speed for optimal heat transfer
and product quality.

and get the most out of an ever increasingly


valuable crop, particularly in times of high
commodity prices.

Functional and durable


machine design : High-quality
materials and innovative
features for a long lifetime
and superior reliability.

In view of the outstanding economic


importance of roasting, we have, since 1996,
been engaged in developing novel state-of-theart analytical technologies, with the aim of
increasing the consistency of the roasting

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Volume 15 | Issue 3 | 2012

Innovations for a better world.

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COFFEE ROASTING
significance to the odour of coffee. In order to
monitor detailed, flavour relevant information
on the evolution of the coffee roasting process
in real-time, one needs methods capable of
monitoring VOCs at high time-resolution, with
high sensitivity and chemical selectivity in the
off-gas of a roaster.
Several techniques have been developed to
monitor on-line the off-gas during coffee
roasting 3-28. In 1996, the first of a series of
exploratory studies using different laser
ionisation schemes coupled to Time-of-Flight
Mass-Spectrometry was published 23,24,29,30.
Applying multivariate statistical methods on
time-resolved intensity traces of nine volatile
coffee compounds, the roasting degree could
be roughly traced for a range of roasting
temperatures (200-250C). This study demonstrated the feasibility of on-line control of the
coffee roasting process, yet lacked precise and
repeated measurements of the VOC profiles by a
tight control of the roasting process23. Later, in
FIGURE 2 Schematic representation of the experimental strategy to establish an on-line process control
for coffee roasting that achieves a consistent roast degree, roast after roast. For each roasting cycle, a
series of on- and off-line measurements are performed. The on-line measured values include
three temperature profiles; (i) the temperature of the heating gas entering the roasting, (ii) the off-gas
temperature and (iii) the temperature inside the roaster. Two flow meters also measure the flow of the
heating gas entering the roaster and the off-gas flow. Furthermore, the off-gas of the roaster was measured
on-line by PTR-ToF-MS. At the end of each roasting cycle, the GC-MS and sensory profiles of the extracts
and the roast degree were measured off-line. Combining on- with off-line date yielded a comprehensive
characterisation of each roasting process, and allowed establishing a process control tool for the coffee
roasting, as explained in the text

1998, the coffee roasting process was investigated by an emerging, alternative on-line
technology, Proton-Transfer-Reaction MassSpectrometry (PTR-MS) 31-33. Here, chemical
ionisation of neutral VOCs is achieved by
proton transfer from H3O+. The protonated VOC
ions are subsequently analysed by a quadruple
mass filter.

such as to consistently achieve the same

represent coffee flavour compounds. While

In 2009, an improved version of PTR-MS was

targeted sensory profile.

close to 1,000 VOCs were reported in coffee,

introduced which replaces the Quadropole by a

most are odourless and less than 50 are of

Time-of-Flight MS 34. Triggered by this tech -

As we enter the 21st century, it seems


unlikely that the basic technology of applying
heat to the beans will fundamentally change.
Yet, one important innovation that will most
probably affect future generations of roasters is
intelligent on-line control tools.
In this article, we summarise work from by
our group on on-line analysis of the roasting
process, and discuss our most recent contribution to the subject. The ultimate objective of
our research is to develop on-line technologies
for controlling the roasting process so as to
achieve highest consistency for the flavour
profile of roasted coffee, using real-time process
control tools.

On-line analysis of off-gas from


the coffee roaster
Roast-gas is composed of a complex mixture of
gases. These are primarily non-odorous
inorganic gases such as CO2, CO, N2 and H2O2,
and less than one per cent of the volume of the
gases are VOCs, only a small fraction of which

FIGURE 3Temperature profiles during the roasting experiments. T2 represents a convoluted temperature
trace between the actual bean temperature and the surrounding hot-air temperature. The brown solid line
shows the temperature profile for a high (H) hot air inlet temperature. The dotted red line shows the
temperature profile for a medium (M) and the orange one for a low (L) hot air inlet temperature. For each
hot air temperature profile, coffee was roasted to a light (L), a medium (M) and a dark (D) roast degree.
So e.g. HL, HM and HD represent the end points of the roasting cycles at high hot air inlet temperature, to
a light (ML), a medium (MM) and a dark (MD) roast, respectively. All roasting experiments start at 210C

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COFFEE ROASTING
nological innovation, we revisited the on-line

determined in Colorette values, as provided

component analysis (PCA), the PTR-TOF-MS

monitoring of VOCs in the roaster off-gas, now

from a Probat Colorette 3b. Except for the roast

profiles at the end of each of the 42 roasting

using a PTR-TOF-MS35. The PTR-TOF 8000 from

degree, the off-line data (GCMS and sensory) will

experiments with the corresponding off-line

Ionicon Analytik GmbH achieves a detection

not be discussed here and will be the subject of

measured roast degrees. This generated a

limit of better than ppbv for a time resolution of

a forthcoming publication.

3D-space, defined by the three first principle

one second, and a mass resolution of up to 5500

On-line PTR-TOF-MS data: Out of hundreds

m/m (FWHM)4,36. Figure 2 (opposite) depicts

of m/z ion signals monitored by PTR-TOF-MS

the analytic approaches implemented in this

during each roasting cycle, traces were

Once the PTR-TOF-MS were calibrated

most recent study.

grouped into 23 different characteristic

against roast degree, on-line recorded

components PC1, PC2 and PC3, as shown in


Figure 5 on page 26.

Process monitoring of coffee roasting


by PTR-TOF-MS
Arabica green coffee beans from Guatemala,
from the growing region of Antigua, were used
throughout all roasting experiments. Roasting
was performed on a Petroncini TT 15/20 drum
coffee roaster with a capacity of 15-20 kilograms
per batch. Batches of 15.6 kilograms green
coffee were roasted at three different hot-air
inlet temperatures (high (H), medium (M) and
low (L)) and each to three different roasting

FIGURE 4 The m/z timetemperature profiles of two selected lead traces are shown. For each high,
medium and low hot air inlet temperatures, the profiles to a light, medium and dark roast degree are
essentially overlapping in both cases

degrees (dark (D), medium (M) and light (L)). To


monitor each roasting cycle, the roaster was

families using statistical approaches 35. For

PTR-TOF-MS profiles can be projected in real-

fitted with several sensors, as outlined in Figure

each family, a lead trace was selected (often the

time onto the 3D space of the first three

2 opposite. Table 1 on page 23 summarises the

most intense m/z signal in each family)

principle components and the roasting process

characteristic parameters for each roasting

and included in the following PCA analysis.

monitored on-line for the roast degree. This is

process, whereas Figure 3 (opposite) shows the

Figure 4 shows two characteristic m/z lead

shown as a yellow trace for a roasting process at

experimentally measured time-evolutions of

PTR-TOF-MS time-intensity ion traces. They

a medium hot air inlet temperature. The trace

T2 for the various roasting profiles.

demonstrate two examples of very different

initially evolved through a drying phase. Later,

time-intensity behaviours.

an abrupt turn marks the transition to the

As outlined in Figure 2 (opposite), two


different types of data were collected during the

In order to develop a predictive model and

exothermic phase, which is characterised by a

roasting cycles. Off-line data: roasted coffee at

ultimately a process control for a consistent

sudden change in the VOC profile. The following

the end of each roasting experiment was

roast degree, the on-line measured time-

phase of the roasting, represented by a straight

analysed off-line by (i) gas-chromatography

intensity profiles of the PTR-TOF-MS signals

trajectory in the 3D-PCA space, reflects the

mass-spectrometry (GCMS), (ii) profiled by a

were calibrated for the roast degree. This was

exothermic phase of the roasting. Then, a

human sensory panel and (iii) the roast degree

accomplished by linking, via a principle

second abrupt change in trajectory reflects the

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COFFEE ROASTING
first pop and a second sudden change in the

calibrated for the roast degree, based on the

roast degree, with a precision better than 1

VOC profile. The following and final phase then

calibration points established in the first phase

Colorette roast degree.

brings the beans from an initially light roast

of the experiments. The trajectory moves

This research demonstrates that a time-

towards progressively darker roasts. In this

precisely through the calibration points,

resolved analysis of the VOC profiles in the

phase of the roasting process, the trajectory of

allowing real-time following of the roasting

off-gas of a coffee roaster by PTR-TOF-MS

the PTR-TOF-MS in the 3D PCA space is

process and halting the roasting at a desired

provides a detailed picture of the evolution


of the roasting process and allows establishing
a real-time process control tool that ensures
highest consistency of the roast degree.
BIOGRAPHY

Dr. Chahan Yeretzian is Head of the


Analytical & Physical Chemistry Group at
the Zurich University of Applied Science
(ZHAW) in Wdenswil. A major focus of
his research is the chemistry and
technology coffee. He established
the first university degree on coffee
(www.icbc.zhaw.ch/coffee), and is board member of the Swiss
Chapter of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE).
Dr. Yeretzian received his PhD in Chemistry from the University
of Bern, Switzerland. A two year post-doctoral position at the
University of California, Los Angeles (UCLA), and a subsequent
Alexander von Humboldt Junior Award for a two year
Fellowship at the Technical University of Munich,
complemented his academic education. From 1995 to 2008, he
held various R&D management positions at Nestl. In 2008,
he joined the faculty of the Institute of Chemistry and
Biological Chemistry at ZHAW.

FIGURE 5The 42 calibration experiments, conducted at three different roasting temperatures and to three
final roast degrees generated a 3D space, represented by the three first principle components PC1, PC2
and PC3. Inverted triangles mark the dark roast degree, square medium and circle light, respectively.
The hot-air inlet temperature is marked as follows: high (black), medium (grey), low (white)

Dr. Yeretzian is co-author of more than 100 scientific


publications and book chapters, co-editor of a book entitled
Expression of Multidisciplinary Flavour Science and regularly
invited by both specialised and mainstream media to
contribute articles and interviews around the subject of coffee.
yere@zhaw.ch

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