Men's Short Haircuts and the Barber Shop

SECTIONS Introduction The barber shop environment Haircut terminology Men's shor
t haircuts: style names and descriptions Facial shapes & facial features: pickin
g a style that suits you Resources Introduction This section provides informatio
n about men's short haircuts, including common style names and basic haircut ter
minology. Special emphasis is placed on the barber shop environment (as opposed
to upscale hair salons or haircut chains), but the terms and styles used herein
can be applied in many shops or salons in the United States. Style names and int
erpretations may vary somewhat in different neighborhoods and locales in the U.S
., or elsewhere in the world. This page also includes a section on facial shapes
, as well as suggestions of styles that may look good with certain facial featur
es. Readers may also want to use this page in combination with the facial hair p
age, for beard and mustache ideas to complement their haircut and facial type. b
ack to the top
The barber shop environment Beginning with the ancient civilizations of Greece,
Rome, and Egypt, barber shops have historically been a place where men have gath
ered for not only a haircut, but often for friendly talk about local happenings,
politics, news, weather, sporting events, and anything else under the sun. Barb
er shops in various historical periods provided services in addition to haircutt
ing, such as baths, massage, shoe shines, food and drink, entertainment, tooth p
ulling, blood letting, and even surgery! Prior to the advent of an easy-to-use,
mass-produced safety razor in the early twentieth century, a large percentage of
men would visit a barber regularly-- sometimes several times a week-- to have t
heir faces shaved. All these factors went into making the barber shop an importa
nt gathering place in the lives of many men throughout history. The cutting and
styling of women's hair has also been part of the history of barber shops, thoug
h the popularity of that trend has waxed and waned in certain locales and time p
eriods. In general, today's barber shop (as opposed to a styling salon or a hair
cut chain) is considered by many to be primarily a men's domain, though some sho
ps also cut women's hair, and some feature female barbers. Though "old school" b
arber shops have declined in number over the past few decades, there are still m
any men who enjoy the atmosphere and barbering skills found in their neighborhoo
d shop. For men who wear short hairstyles such as crew cuts, flat tops, high and
tights, fades, butches, and ivy leagues (more on these styles below), a good ba
rber shop is usually their best and most economical choice. First time in a barb
er shop? If you've never been to a barber shop before, the experience can be qui
te different from a hair salon or a discount haircut chain. Unlike more upscale
hair salons, most barber shops offer quality haircuts at affordable prices; usua
lly, you can plan to pay somewhere around $10-$15 for a haircut (give or take a
few dollars, depending on the locale). While most salons and haircut chains do n
ot offer facial shaves, many barber shops routinely offer shaves, often includin
g warm lather and sometimes a hot face towel. A few barber shops may request tha
t you make an appointment before you visit, but most shops operate on a "first-c
ome, first-served" basis. When you enter a first-come, first-served shop, take n
ote of who was already waiting ahead of you, and keep a mental note of your plac
e in the order as new people enter, so you'll know when it is your turn. (Newer
shops may use sign-in lists to minimize confusion.) It is customary when you've
entered an unfamiliar shop to take the next available barber when your turn has
come up. However, once you have established a relationship with a particular bar
ber in a shop, it is perfectly acceptable to wait for that barber when your turn
comes up. For example, if it is your turn to get a cut, but your favorite barbe
r, Sam, is still cutting another guy's hair, you can simply say, "I'm going to w
ait for Sam." Unless someone else who was ahead of you is also waiting for Sam,
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Once seated in his or her chair, your barber will ask a few questions about how
you would like your hair cut, at least until getting to know your preferences an
d style. He or she may ask when your last haircut was, whether you wish to simpl
y trim the style you currently have, whether you would like a blocked or tapered
neckline (details below), if you would like your sideburns trimmed, if you woul
d like a part in your hair, if you want your neck shaved, if you would like your
beard trimmed, if you'd like a full shave, and so on. If you request a very sho
rt cut, your barber may ask if you know the clipper blade number that you prefer
. Keep in mind that different clipper manufacturers may use slightly different n
umbering systems for their blades and attachments (more on clippers below). If y
ou have a specific, traditional style in mind (such as a crew cut or a butch), f
eel free to request it, but understand that these styles can be interpreted slig
htly differently from barber to barber. It may be wise to describe specific deta
ils you are looking for until you and your barber become more familiar with one
another. Unless your hair is very dirty, most barbers will not shampoo your hair
before cutting. Depending on the preference of the barber, he or she may use cl
ippers or shears (haircutting scissors) to cut your hair; one is not necessarily
better than the other, as they are both means to an end. Your barber may use wa
rm lather and a straight razor to clean up the outlines of your cut around the e
ars and neck. Payment is usually given directly to the barber who cut your hair
at the end of the cut, and tipping is customary (between 15-20% is appropriate f
or most areas of the country). Finding a good barber The easiest way to find a g
ood barber is to ask around. Seek out men with good-looking short haircuts and a
sk them what shop they go to. Most guys who have a good barber are happy to pass
along his or her name. If you have a particular type of hair (i.e., very curly,
nappy, very straight, receding hairline, etc.), try to ask for barber shop advi
ce from men who share that feature. For example, some shops are especially skill
ed in cutting the various textures of black men's hair. Because barber shops are
often social gathering places for men, you may also want to find a place where
you enjoy the environment. Some shops are constantly full of boisterous talk and
high energy, while others are more slow-paced and relaxed. Some have markedly o
lder clientele, some serve mostly younger men. Some shops are "hip" and modern,
while others make you feel like you stepped back in time when you walk through t
he door. There are single chair shops and multi-chair shops, shops that have the
radio or television playing, shops that are quiet, shops that cater to military
-style cuts, shops that do lots of businessmen's cuts, and so on. In short, ther
e are lots of unique barber shops out there, and you might want to try out a few
before you find your favorite. Ultimately, you want to find a barber shop where
you get a great haircut and an enjoyable visit to boot. back to the top
Haircut terminology Summarized below are a number of haircutting terms; these ar
e provided so that you are able to better communicate with your barber when tryi
ng to describe your preferred haircut. If you'd like to learn more about the bas
ics of hair itself, you may also want to read the male pattern hair loss page, w
hich has a section devoted to explaining hair structure and growth patterns. Arc
h The area just above and behind the ear; the outline of the cut connecting the
sideburn area to the hair at the side and back of the head. Everyone has a natur
al arch, and many barbers will try to trim the arch in a way that simply cleans
up and enhances the natural arch. Cutting a lower-than-average arch can minimize
large ears, and cutting a higher-thanaverage arch can make small ears appear la
rger. However, if an arch is trimmed too high or too sharply without proper blen
ding, it may look awkward when it grows out.
Bangs Hair in the front of the head that is worn down over the forehead; sometim
es also called "fringe." Bangs can be long or short, and can be worn straight do
wn or combed to either side. Some men wear bangs to cover a large or prominent f
orehead, or a slightly receding hairline.
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Blocked nape versus tapered nape (or, blocked neck edge versus tapered neck edge
) A blocked nape refers to cutting the hair straight across in a definite line w
here the hairline meets the back of the neck (the nape). It is sometimes also re
ferred to as "squaring off" the nape. A tapered nape refers to a gradual decreas
e in the length of hair at the back of the head to zero, following your natural
hairline. Both are shown in the illustration below for comparison.
A barber will usually ask if you prefer a blocked or tapered nape. If you have a
skinny or long neck, blocking can add the illusion of width. A tapered nape wil
l look good on a short or thick neck. In general, a tapered nape tends to look a
bit neater and more natural than a blocked nape once your hair starts to grow o
ut a few days after the haircut. Clippers, blades, and attachments Electric clip
pers utilize different-sized detachable blades or plastic guard attachments to c
ut hair to a uniform length. They can also be used with special tapering attachm
ents or combs for blending. Clipper blades and attachments are usually categoriz
ed by numbers. Generally, the smaller the number of a blade, the shorter the cut
; when blades and attachments are labeled "0" (zero), the more zeros, the shorte
r the cut (i.e., a 00000 blade cuts shorter than a 000 blade). The exact length
of hair left by a clipper blade will depend on the manufacturer and model number
of the clippers. Three very common clipper manufacturers used by barbers are An
dis, Oster, and Wahl; some of their common blade numbers are shown below. Old-st
yle hand clippers are also available in numerous blade lengths, but electric cli
ppers are far more commonly used. In the lists below, the first number shown is
the blade number, and the second number is the hair length the blade will cut. T
he blade size information was obtained from manufacturer web site product listin
gs.
Andis Andis clippers come with removable blades of different lengths. The length
/numbering of certain Andis blades may vary, depending on the model. Shown below
is one of their major blade lines. UltraEdge blade series "Trimmer" -- 1/150 in
ch 00000 -- 1/125 inch 0000 -- 1/100 inch 0000A -- 1/75 inch 000 -- 1/50 inch 0A
-- 3/64 inch 1 -- 3/32 inch 1A -- 1/8 inch 1.5 -- 5/32 inch 2 -- 1/4 inch 3.5 - 3/8 inch 3.75 -- 1/2 inch 5/8 HT -- 5/8 inch 3/4 HT -- 3/4 inch
Oster Oster's "Classic" clipper comes with removable blades of different lengths
. Oster clippers are often used in shops that specialize in military-style hairc
uts. 00000 -- 1/125 inch 0000 -- 1/100 inch 000 -- 1/50 inch 0A -- 3/64 inch 1 - 3/32 inch 1A -- 1/8 inch 1.5 -- 5/32 inch 2 -- 1/4 inch 3.5 -- 3/8 inch 3.75 - 1/2 inch
Wahl A number of Wahl clippers come with adjustable blades that move between 1 m
m (about 1/25 inch) and 3 mm (about 1/8 inch) in length. Some models have detach
able blades, which are listed below. (Wahl provides measurements in millimeters.
) Competition blade series 00000 -- 0.4 mm 0000 -- 0.6 mm 000 -- 0.8 mm 0A -- 1.
8 mm 1 -- 2 mm 1A -- 2.8 mm 1.5 -- 3.8 mm 2 -- 6 mm 3.5 -- 8 mm 3.75 -- 10 mm
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Crown The top rear portion of the head, usually where hair growth begins in a sw
irl pattern. Layering Layering refers to cutting hair at different lengths throu
ghout the hairstyle. Layers can be blended so that you cannot see where one leng
th leaves off and another begins, or they can be left unblended, giving a chunky
appearance. Layering can help remove bulk and weight from areas where hair is g
enerally left longer, like the top of the head. Layers can be uniform throughout
, such as trimming every hair on different parts of the head to approximately th
e same length (instead of being cut longer in the center and shorter around the
edges). Some kinds of layered cuts can give a more modern, "messy" look when hai
r gel or pomade is applied. In short, layering is a means to an end, and it does
n't refer to a single specific style. If you are getting a short hairstyle and w
ant it layered, you can ask your barber for a layered cut. However, if you decid
e to wear a layered style that is very long (several inches or more on top), you
might want to go to a men's hair stylist where they specialize in longer men's
cuts. Barbers can certainly cut longer men's styles-- some are quite good at it- but in general, most barber shops specialize in shorter men's cuts. Choose a s
hop that can do the best job with the styles you like to wear.
Part A line of scalp (usually running parallel with the sides of the head) that
can be seen when sections of hair are divided and combed in opposite directions.
A part can be made on any style where the hair is long enough. In the recent pa
st, the conventional side for men's hair parts was the left side, but hair may b
e parted on either side, or in the middle. The natural part begins at the crown,
which can occur on either side of the head. See also "crown."
Shaving In the context of hair cutting, shaving refers to the act of wet shaving
, which is not the same as using a clipper or beard trimmer on its lowest settin
g. Having your head or face shaved smooth is different from having your hair cli
pped down to almost nothing. Taper The word "taper" refers to the act of creatin
g a gradual, smooth change in hair length from one part of the head to another (
for example, starting the hair very short at the neck edge, and gradually increa
sing the length of hair as you move toward the top of the head). A taper shows n
o abrupt lines or steps where the hair suddenly looks longer or shorter. Most sh
ort cuts employ at least some tapering, though where the tapering begins and how
tight it is will depend on the style and preference of the wearer. A "taper" cu
t is a general name for a cut that gets progressively shorter as the hair approa
ches the nape of the neck. You can have a longish taper cut or a very short tape
r cut-- what makes it a "taper" is the subtle graduation in length. Some people
use the word "fade" interchangeably with "taper," but keep in mind that in some
shops "fade" will be interpreted to mean a certain local style. If you use "fade
" to describe that you want a tapered effect, you might specify that you want th
e cut to "fade gradually from short in the back to longer on top," or a similar
description. Just be careful to specify length, and how drastic you want the fad
e/taper to look.
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A frequent question asked by barbers is whether you would like a "tapered" neck
or a "blocked" neck. See "blocked nape versus tapered nape," above, for an illus
tration and explanation of the pros and cons of either style. Thinning The remov
al of some hair, usually on the top, to reduce thickness or volume, and to help
shape the hair into a certain style. Thinning can be done using regular haircutt
ing shears, special "thinning shears," or a razor. back to the top
Men's short haircuts: style names and descriptions To follow are a few common sh
ort haircut style names and illustrations. Keep in mind that barbers (and indivi
duals) in different parts of the country or world (or even across town) may inte
rpret these styles differently, or may have popular local names for them. Some s
tyle names are fairly generic, and can vary quite a bit in length and style inte
rpretation (for example, there are many ways to cut an "ivy league," and a "crew
cut" can vary a bit in overall length), so until you and your barber know get t
o know each other, be specific about your length preferences, how you prefer you
r hair to be tapered, and so on. This is nowhere near an exhaustive listing of p
ossible men's haircuts; it just includes some of the more well-known short style
s. You and your barber may come up with variations on the basic themes of these
haircuts that suit your face and personal style. You may also wish to check some
of the sites in the Resources section for photo examples of these styles, so yo
u can see the variety of possibilities. Bowl cut This cut features longer hair a
round the top of the head and shorter hair around the lower part of the head wit
h little or no blending between the two lengths. It gets it name because it look
s as though someone took a bowl, placed it on top of the head like a helmet, and
then cut all the hair that stuck out from beyond the border of the bowl-- a pop
ular way of cutting hair at home on the cheap. Because this style is frequently
associated with kids getting their hair cut at home by mom, it may make the wear
er appear boyish and young.
Brush cut For the brush cut, the sides and back are cut short and tapered, but t
he hair on the top of the head is usually cut to the same length (i.e., no taper
ing in length on the top of the head), following the curve of the head. The top
is worn straight up to resemble the bristles of a brush.
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Burr (also known as an induction cut) The burr is created by taking a clipper wi
th a very short blade and cutting all the hair on the head to the same length (u
sually 1/8 inch or shorter). It is shorter than a "butch," which is usually abou
t 1/4 inch or so. You can see much more scalp with a burr than you can with a bu
tch. A burr is short enough that it feels a bit rough, like sandpaper, when you
rub the head against the grain of hair growth.
Business man's cut A business man's cut is a generic term for a conservative, sh
ort (but not too short) haircut that is appropriate for an office setting. It us
ually refers to a tapered cut on the back and sides, with enough length on the t
op of the head to be able to part the hair or wear it brushed back from the fore
head. There are several possible variations on the business man's cut.
Butch The butch is created by taking a clipper and cutting all the hair to the s
ame length on the top of the head (typically about 1/4 inch or so). It is longer
than a "burr," which is often considered to be 1/8 inch or less. A butch may or
may not be tapered around the ears and near the neckline, depending on the pref
erence of the wearer.
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Caesar cut In the caesar, the hair on the top of the head is layered to around a
length of 1 to 2 inches, with the front combed forward into short bangs. The ba
ck and sides are tapered. The style is named after Julius Caesar, who wore short
bangs forward in a similar way.
Convertible "Convertible" is a generic term referring to a style that can be wor
n in more than one way. Taper cuts or layered cuts can be styled with enough hai
r left on the top so they can be worn parted, without a part, forward in bangs,
combed up and back, to the side, etc., depending on the length and the hair type
. Crew cut A crew cut is a fairly generic term for a very short cut that is tape
red on the back and sides as well as tapered on the top of the head to have a li
ttle more length toward the front hairline. The contour of the head is usually f
ollowed on the top, giving a somewhat rounded look. A crew cut can be considered
a very short version of a classic taper cut, or even a very short pompadour if
the hair is brushed upward in the front.
Fade A fade is an extreme type of taper cut, where the hair on the sides and bac
k is cut very, very close to the head and then tapered upward-- usually beginnin
g above the ears or at the temple-- to a longer length on the top of the head. T
here are many local and popular names for different kinds of fades, such as temp
le fade, low fade, Philly fade, Brooklyn fade, and more; be sure to discuss what
you'd like with your barber.
Flat top In the flat top, the hair on the sides and back are usually cut in a sh
ort taper, and the hair on the top is cut to stand up and give a very flat appea
rance to the top of the head. There are a number of possible length variations w
ith the flat top, though the longer the hair on the top, the more likely you wil
l need some sort of styling product (hair wax) to keep it standing up straight.
There are also styling variations as to how the sides can be cut to meet the top
: the sides can go straight up and give a square appearance to the top of the he
ad (often referred to as a "boxy" flat top), or the sides can be somewhat contou
red toward the top, giving a more curved appearance (often referred to as "round
ed" or "beveled").
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rg/haircuts.html A very short flat top usually leaves the hair in the middle of
the head cut tight to the scalp. When viewed from above, that

area of exposed scalp is referred to as a "landing strip." The "U" shape of hair
that surrounds a pronounced landing strip (again, when viewed from above) gives
a very short flat top the descriptive name "horseshoe flat top." A flat top wit
h longer hair on the sides of the head is called a "flat top with fenders."
High and tight The high and tight is frequently worn in the military, particular
ly in the Marine Corps. The sides and back are extremely short, either clipped a
lmost to the skin or shaved with a razor all the way up to the crown of the head
. The top is usually worn very short (usually 1/4 inch or shorter, though some g
uys wear the very front part a little longer) and on the forward part of the hea
d. There is minimal blending between the sides and the top; the amount of blendi
ng varies by preference. A more extreme version is the "high and tight recon," d
escribed below.
High and tight recon The high and tight recon is an extreme version of the high
and tight (above). The sides and back are shaved very high, about an inch or two
past the crown of the head. There is no blending between the sides and the top.
The patch of hair left on the top forward part of the head is more narrow and s
maller than in a high and tight. The recon resembles an extremely short mohawk.
Horseshoe flat top See "flat top." Induction cut See "burr." Ivy league The side
s and back are cut short and tapered across the crown, and the hair gradually be
comes longer and fuller toward the front. In a classic ivy league (shown in the
illustration), enough hair is left in the front so that it can be neatly parted
and styled, usually with pomade or gel. More contemporary ivy league cuts may st
yle the hair upward or forward in the front, but are still generally neat cuts t
hat follow the shape of the head.
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Landing strip See "flat top." Layered cut Layering refers to cutting hair at dif
ferent lengths throughout the hairstyle. Layers can be blended so that you canno
t see where one length leaves off and another begins, or they can be left unblen
ded, giving a chunky appearance. Layering can help remove bulk and weight from a
reas where hair is generally left longer, like the top of the head in some men's
cuts. Some kinds of layered cuts can give a more modern, "messy" look when hair
gel or pomade is applied. In short, layering is a means to an end, and it doesn
't refer to a single specific style. Layers can be uniform throughout, such as t
rimming every hair on different parts of the head to approximately the same leng
th (instead of being cut longer in the center and shorter around the edges). If
you are leaving your short hairstyle a little on the long side overall, you can
ask your barber for a layered cut. If you decide to wear a layered style that is
very long (several inches or more on top), you might want to go to a men's hair
stylist where they specialize in longer men's cuts.
Pompadour A pompadour is a generic term for a style that wears the hair brushed
up and back from the forehead. Pompadours can be very short or very long on the
top. Elvis Presley wore a few different pompadour styles in his lifetime, some s
hort and some long. Often, styling products such as pomade are used to keep a po
mpadour in place.
Regulation "Regulation" is a generic term that refers to short, military style h
aircuts. The military isn't entirely specific about how hair should be styled, s
o there are many different cuts that can technically qualify as adhering to regu
lations. For example, Marine Corps regulations state that the hair on the top of
the head should not be longer than 3 inches, and that the hair from the neck ha
irline should begin at zero length and be graduated toward the upper portion of
the head. As for sideburns, they must not extend below the top of the orifice of
the ear, must not be styled to taper or flare, and should not have extended hai
r length of more than 1/8 inch. Those regulations leave room for interpretation,
and include many standard short cuts, including burr, butch, crew cut, etc. How
ever, those styles are not what is typically referred to when someone uses the t
erm "regulation cut." The styles more commonly known as "regulation," are short
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very http://www.ftmguide.org/haircuts.html be worn parted, brushed upward, crewcut-style-taper, etc.), with the back and sides clipped close (or shaved) and

tapered so that scalp is plainly visible. This area of scalp is referred to as "
whitewalls," and the height of the whitewalls determines whether a cut may be ca
lled "low regulation" (short whitewalls), "high regulation" (tall whitewalls), o
r "medium regulation" (somewhere in the middle). The illustration below shows a
few variants of the regulation cut.
Taper cut A classic taper cut is simply a short haircut where the sides and back
are cut progressively shorter down toward the neck, with even blending througho
ut. The hair on the top of the head is also tapered, but can be cut quite short,
or left long enough to part or otherwise style with gel or pomade. A good taper
cut should show no demarcation lines; the transitions between hair lengths shou
ld be smooth. Most short cuts employ at least some tapering.
Temple fade See "fade." Whitewalls Areas where the back and sides are clipped ve
ry close (or shaved) so that scalp is plainly visible. This area of scalp is ref
erred to as "whitewalls."
back to the top
Facial shapes & facial features: picking a style that suits you In order to end
up with a really good-looking haircut, it is a good idea to know which styles mi
ght best suit the shape of your face, your overall head shape, your hairline, an
d your facial features. Just because a haircut looks good on your friend or on a
celebrity doesn't mean it will necessarily look as good on you! A good barber w
ill be able to suggest styles that suit your face, head, hairline, and features.
Feel free to ask your barber to give you a cut that he or she thinks will look
good on you; just be sure to mention your limits so you don't end up with someth
ing that doesn't suit your job or lifestyle.
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The following section is summarized from information gathered from the barbering
textbooks listed in the Resources section. Styling suggestions are provided for
8 different facial shapes: oval, round, heart-shaped, square, oblong, triangula
r (also called "pear-shaped"), inverted triangular, and diamond. Tips are also p
rovided for certain facial features, such as prominent foreheads, short chins, s
mall ears, long necks, and so on. Facial shape illustrations are modified from L
. Sherman Trusty's The Art and Science of Barbering. Trans men should keep in mi
nd that your facial shape may change somewhat after you have been on testosteron
e for a couple of years. The jawline may tend to square up a bit, giving a more
angular appearance overall. This is similar to what happens to non-trans boys wh
en they go through puberty. In general, adult men's faces tend to look more angu
lar than women's or boy's faces (though of course there are still a variety of f
acial shapes among men). If you are early in transition and are looking for a ha
ircut to help you appear more masculine, try to avoid emphasizing any roundness
that may be in your face-- pick a style that gives you a more angular look. Many
guys with round or soft faces end up choosing "masculine" styles that are cropp
ed close to follow the curve of the top of the head (such as a butch or a rounde
d crew cut), but this may not be the best choice, as such styles may make your f
ace look even more round and soft! Also, if the hair on your short style appears
very "fuzzy" or "downy," this can add to an overall softer look; you may want t
o add a small amount of hair wax or pomade to keep fuzzy hair styled and under c
ontrol. If you happen to be short in stature, wearing your hair upwards from the
top of your head (as in a pompadour, brush cut, flat top, or textured layer cut
) can add the illusion of a little more height-- but also choose these a style t
hat looks good with the proportions of your face. Another factor for trans men t
o consider is whether your barber or stylist reads you as male or female. If you
are being read as female during early transition, a barber may (consciously or
unconsciously) cut your hair to give a more feminine look. This is probably not
intended in a negative way, it's just that a large portion of women who get shor
t haircuts don't want a men's haircut, so stylists and barbers are trained to ac
centuate different things in masculine and feminine cuts. If you are with a barb
er who reads you as female (or who knows you from prior to transition) and is gi
ving you a feminine cut, you have a few options. One is to explain that you want
the cut to look more masculine, or that you want it to look square and angular
and minimize softness. You can suggest a style or modifications that you know wi
ll help masculinize your face type. A second option is to go to a different barb
er and get a fresh start. If you absolutely love your barber or stylist and don'
t want to change, but the approach of requesting a more masculine style doesn't
seem to be working, try going to a different shop for a while until you have mas
culinized a bit more, and then return to your favorite barber or stylist. Once h
e or she has seen the changes in your face and overall appearance, perhaps the u
rge to "soften" your cut will have passed. back to the top
FACE SHAPES See also the facial hair page for suggestions on beard and mustache
styles to suit your face. Oval Face The oval face is considered to be the ideal
face shape, in that just about every style looks good on an oval face. The oval
face is slightly wider at the forehead, and features a rounded chin. Try a few d
ifferent styles to see what suits you best.
Round Face The round face is shorter than the oval, with forehead, cheek bones,
and jaw all of similar width. With the round face, the hairstyle should be cut t
o slim the face. Very short styles that follow the curve of the head (such as a
butch, burr, or a short crew cut) will emphasize roundness and should be avoided
. Leaving the hair a bit longer/fuller and adding texture on top will help lengt
hen the face. Beards should be styled to slim the face as well.
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Heart-shaped Face The heart-shaped face is widest across the cheek bones and the
eyes, with a broad forehead. The shape narrows at the jawline and comes to a po
inted chin. Most styles will look good on the heart-shaped face, though fullness
on the sides of the head should be avoided, as that is the broadest point of th
e face.
Square Face The square face has an angular jawbone and chin, paired with a squar
ish forehead. Hair should be styled to slenderize the face. The hair on top of t
he head should be reasonably full, possibly with short bangs that blend at the t
emples. A textured style with layers can look good on a square face.
Oblong Face An oblong face is long, with a forehead that is about the same width
as the jawbone. Hair should be styled to shorten the length of the face. Adding
bangs or otherwise styling the hair forward to cover the hairline may work well
. Too much fullness on the top of the head should be avoided. Adding a mustache
to an oblong face can help break up the length.
Triangular Face (also called Pear-shaped) Generated by www.PDFonFly.com at 1/6/2
013 11:19:11 AM URL: http://www.ftmguide.org/haircuts.html The triangular face i
s often also called "pear-shaped," due to its being wider at the jawline than at
the top part of the

head. Hair should be styled to give weight and width to the top and sides near t
he temples. On the lower portion of the head, the hair should be cropped very cl
ose to minimize width. Beards, if worn, should not be too full, as this will mak
e the jaw look even wider.
Inverted Triangular Face The inverted triangle features a wide forehead and chee
kbones, and narrows sharply through the jawline and chin. Hair should be cropped
close to minimize the width at the top of the head. A full beard can give the i
llusion of a wider jaw.
Diamond Face The diamond face is widest at the eyes, and narrow at both the fore
head and at the chin. Hair on the top of the head should be kept short, and hair
around the temples should be worn fuller to help give a more oval appearance. B
angs can help add width in the front of the head, and a uniform length cut (rath
er than a traditional taper to the crown) can add width in the back of the head.
A full beard can be added to create width at the narrow chin.
back to the top
FACIAL FEATURES See also the facial hair page for suggestions on beard and musta
che styles to suit your face. Neck size and length For those with a short or thi
ck neck, short styles that leave the neck exposed can add the illusion of length
. A tapered nape will look good on a short or thick neck. Leaving the hair fulle
r or longer at the neck will minimize the appearance of a long neck. A thin neck
will look better with a blocked nape, which will add the illusion of width. Ear
size For small ears, your barber may cut a slightly higher than normal arch to
give the illusion of larger ears. With large ears, a lower than normal arch can
help minimize their size.
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Nose size and shape To offset a prominent nose (large, hooked, or pointed), wear
ing the hair forward at the forehead and back at sides may help. An off-center p
art may also help offset a large nose. Chin size and jawline For a short or rece
ding chin, choose a short sideburn. A full beard can also minimize the appearanc
e of a short or receding chin. If you have a weak jawline, a dark-colored beard
will add definition, but those with very light colored hair should be aware that
lighter-colored beards can sometimes create shadows that result in a softer pro
file. Similarly, dark stubble can help mask a double chin or weak jaw, but light
stubble can worsen the problem. If you have a long chin or jawline, choose a lo
nger sideburn. Wearing a beard and mustache cropped short will minimize a protru
ding chin. Forehead size and prominence For a low or very short forehead, having
a short cut or combing hair back makes the forehead appear higher. If you have
a wide forehead, try parting your hair in middle. Those with prominent foreheads
might try a close arrangement of hair over forehead; wearing the hair brushed u
pward can also make a tall forehead seem a little shorter. Receding hairline Dec
isions about receding hairlines depend a lot on how far the line has receded! Fo
r those who are just beginning to lose their hair in the front of the head, wear
ing the hair in a caesar cut or an otherwise forward style can help minimize a r
eceding hairline. However, if your hairline pattern has advanced quite a ways ba
ckward, wearing the hair forward begins to look awkward and should be avoided. V
ery closely cropped styles look good on a markedly receding hairline, and many m
en at this stage of hair loss will opt for the bald or nearly bald look. You may
also want to consider adding a close-clipped full beard, a circle beard, or a v
an dyck to offset a receding hairline. A circle beard or a van dyck can give the
face balance if you are wearing a bald or nearly-bald style. Height If you happ
en to be short in stature, wearing your hair upwards from the top of your head (
as in a pompadour, brush cut, flat top, or textured layer cut) can add the illus
ion of a little more height-- but also choose these a style that looks good with
the proportions of your face. Was this page helpful to you? Please consider don
ating to ftmguide.org! back to the top
Resources Trusty, L. Sherman, The Art and Science of Barbering, sixth edition, W
olfer Printing, 1965. Shields-Michel, Lorin, et al., Hair Care and Styling for M
en, Delmar, 2002. Milady s Standard Textbook of Professional Barber Styling, revised
edition, Milady Publishing, 1993. Haircuts for Men haircutsformen.org Has style
photo galleries for short, medium, and long cuts, as well for as curly hair, th
inning hair, and facial hair. Also has cut descriptions, product recommendations
, and a shop directory for the U.S. Slickville www.slickville.com If you are int
o slicked back or "greaser" styles, check out this site. Lots of photos, nostalg
ia, and fun. The Ed Jeffers Barber Museum www.edjeffersbarbermuseum.com Web site
for a barber museum in Ohio. Has virtual tours, a great photo gallery of barber
ing paraphernalia, a barbering timeline, and other fun items. Ebarbershop ebarbe
rshop.com Features hard-to-find men's hair, shaving, and beard and mustache groo
ming products. back to the top Back to Hudson's FTM Resource Guide main page Cop
yright, disclaimer, and privacy information
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