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By preventing an excessive loss of moisture from the concrete for some period of time, e.g. by leaving formwork in place, covering
the concrete with an impermeable membrane after the formwork has been removed, or by a combination of such methods; or
By continuously wetting the surface thereby preventing the loss of moisture from it. Ponding or spraying the surface with water are
methods typically employed to this end.
Methods
There are three basic ways of curing concrete.
1.
The first - involves keeping the surface of the concrete moist by the use ponding, spraying/sprinkling, damp sand or damp
hessian.
2.
The second prevents the loss of moisture from the concrete by covering it with polythene sheeting or leaving the formwork in
place.
3.
The third involves the use of spray or roller applied curing compounds.
Water Curing
Water curing, if properly carried out, can be the most efficient - and the most appropriate for some types of work, e.g. floors, and include
ponding, sprinkling, and wet coverings.
Ponding
On flat surfaces such as pavements, footpaths, and floors, concrete can be cured by
ponding. Earth or sand dykes around the perimeter of the concrete surface retain a
pond of water within the enclosed area. An efficient method for preventing loss of
moisture from the concrete, ponding is also effective for maintaining a uniform
temperature however, the method is often impractical except for small jobs.
Ponding the concrete surface
Sprinkling
Continuous sprinkling with water is also an excellent method of curing. If sprinkling is
done at intervals, care must be take to prevent the concrete from drying between
applications of water. A fine spray of water applied continuously through a system of
nozzles provides a constant supply of moisture. This prevents the possibility of crazing
or cracking caused by alternate cycles of wetting and drying. A disadvantage of
sprinkling may be its cost. The method requires an adequate supply of water and careful
supervision.
Wet Coverings
Wet coverings such as hessian or other moisture retaining fabrics are extensively used
for curing. Such coverings should be placed as soon as the concrete has hardened
sufficiently to prevent surface damage. Care should be taken to cover the entire surface,
including the edges of slabs such as pavements and footpaths. The coverings should be
kept continuously moist so that a film of water remains on the concrete surface
throughout the curing period.
Sheet Curing
Sheet curing methods may not be so efficient but are usually satisfactory for all except very special work, and they have the big plus point
that they can be carried out more easily on both horizontal and vertical surfaces.
Polythene Sheet
A simple, yet effective, way of keeping moisture in the concrete is to cover it with 125micron (500-gauge) polythene sheeting. Polythene sheet is a material that is easy to
handle and store, and afterwards it can be re-used for so many other purposes on
site including, or course, curing other concrete at a later date. Sheeting should not be
used over pigmented or pattern stamped concrete as it can cause discoloration of the
surface.
Using Polythene
The polythene should be placed in position as soon as possible - on vertical surfaces
within half an hour of the removal of the formwork; on slabs as soon as the concrete
is hard enough to prevent surface damage or marking. Wait until the water sheen has
evaporated, but not so long that the concrete starts to dry out. When the surface of
the slab has a special finish - such as a texture - the polythene should be spread over
light frames above the concrete. With such finishes there is no need to wait for any
bleed water to evaporate before you position the polythene; the curing can start
immediately the slab is finished.
It is important that the exposed edges and corners of the sheet should be well fixed
down. Otherwise wind and draughts get underneath and create a wind-tunnel effect
that would dry the surface of the concrete. Formwork gives some protection, but tops
of walls and columns still need to be cured. Good fixing also, of course, stops the
polythene sheet from blowing about. If you have to use more than one sheet, overlap
them by at least 300mm, andtape the joins. Use tapes or string for tying around
beams and columns. If there is no chance of frost, and the concrete is hard enough, it
will assist the curing if you spray on water before placing the polythene.
Formwork Protection
While it is in position, formwork protects concrete against loss of moisture, and thus
allows curing to proceed. It is only after it has been struck that further curing - of
columns, walls and beams, for instance - may be necessary.
Concrete that is in an exposed position must be thoroughly cured even after
prolonged protection by the formwork. But in a mild, protected environment, and
provided that the formwork has been in position for at least four days, there might be
no need for further curing even in dry weather. However you should check this point
with the engineer or clerk of works.
Formwork gives some protection, but tops of walls and columns still
If the formwork is struck in less than four days, and the surfaces are designed to be a
need to be cured
uniform colour - as in the case of a row of columns, or a continuous wall thorough
and uniform curing is essential.
Even where the formwork is left in place, exposed top surfaces must be cured in the normal way. The top of a wall, for example, will be
exposed to more severe weather conditions than the face. The top will prove more durable if it is sprayed with a high grade-curing
compound.
Where steel reinforcement projects from the top of a wall or column - through a horizontal construction joint - the top surface of the concrete
should be covered with polythene sheet pressed into place over the ends of the bars. The polythene should be well taped to the top of the
formwork.
When concrete will receive a final applied decorative treatment, such as rendering, plaster or paint, in conditions of mild exposure (inside a
building, for instance) further curing may not be necessary, no matter how early the formwork is struck, but this is something you should
check first.
Membrane Curing
Membrance curing methods are likewise, not as efficient as sheet curing methods, but have the advantage over the previous two methods in
that they do not need any further supervision once applied.
Spray-on Compounds
Curing compounds are sprayed on the surface - hand-held garden spray is suitable
for most jobs - and can be used on both vertical and horizontal surfaces. It is essential
always to choose the correct type of compound. Mostly, the compounds consist of a
resin in a solvent that evaporates after it has been applied, leaving behind a thin,
continuous film or membrane that seals-in most of wind and sun after about for
weeks.
Most of the compounds come in two grades, a standard grade having a curing
efficiency of 75%, and a super grade with 90% efficiency. Both are usually available
with either a white or aluminised pigment, or with a fugitive dye. The white or
Paved areas are cured with a super grade white, or luminised,
aluminised pigmented compounds are for external paved areas because they reflect
spray-on pigment
he sun's rays, thus keeping the concrete cooler.
Those with a dye allow you to check at a glance that a uniform, all-over layer has
been applied. They dye then quickly disappears without causing stains, provided it is
not applied to a dry surface.
Clean out the equipment with solvent after you have finished - and whenever you
break off spraying for more than, say half an hour - paying particular attention to
the nozzle and hose
Clean out the equipment with solvent after you have finished - and
whenever you break off spraying for more than, say half an hour - paying
particular attention to the nozzle and hose.
Hold the spray close to the surface and work in two directions
Exposed Concrete
All concrete that will be permanently exposed to the weather needs to be cured with extra care, and for at least seven days. This is
particularly important for visual concrete, including white and coloured concrete, plus special architectural finishes created by abrasive
blasting or tooling.
When using water spray techniques on special finishes it is very important to avoid water streaking. This is best achieved by using a fine
fogging mist spray with the concrete enclosed in a tent-like structure. This is more appropriate for special pre-cast concrete panels.
Wet-cured concrete will be more impermeable and better able to withstand freezing and thawing, wetting and drying. It will also have a better
long-term appearance, since dirt will not collect so easily.
Polythene sheeting can be used, but a spray-on curing compound is usually more convenient, although its use may be subject to approval in
the case of special visual requirements for colour and uniformity.
Colour Uniformity
The colour of concrete can vary according to how long the formwork is left is position after placing, and whether the day on which it is struck
is dry or wet.
Where uniformity of colour is important, for example with as-struck, fair-faced and textured surfaces, you should either leave the formwork in
position for four days, or, where it is struck in less than that time, cover or wrap the concrete in polythene sheeting for at least another three
days. Curing compounds might discolour the concrete, even if only temporality, and might leave some uneven staining.
Rust Staining
The action of rain on reinforcement left projecting from the tops of walls and columns for example, for continuity with concrete that will be placed later on - can create rust.
This will form stains as it is washed down the face of the concrete. You can prevent
these rust stains by applying a neat cement grout wash, or taping plastic sheaths, to the
exposed reinforcement.
Cement grout or plastic sheaths prevent rust stains
Cement-Sand Screeds
Curing compounds are not recommended for cement-sand screeds. The screed should be kept continuously damp for seven days,
preferably by being covered with polythene.