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INSTRUCTION BOOK
FOR THE
^
...STANDARDM
TAILOR SYSTEM...
A SELF-INSTRUCTOR '^^/^^^
WITH
(sm
ooo
THE ART OF
IN
Cutting
i
all
Styles of Garments,
FOR
'4
and
Infants.
to Act of Congrts*
A. O. 1896.
EateKd according
.by.
H. P.
BVAN
CHICAGO, ILL.
S(-)KceS'
1
CO,,
ooo
iniilr(D)dliiii(iti(0)ffii oooo
oooo
of Thirty-four Scales
and
In-
struction book, also a set of Object Lesson Appliances, consisting of an Object Lesson Square, five
The
two
Tailor's Square has joined to its inner edge a set of curves used instead of a
The square
obtain curves for outlines, and these curves are lettered in alphabetic order.
is
point,
compass to
ot the
side
is
also
square indi-
to be used, and these are again given in the diagrams to aid the learner in finding the proper
represent,
and
without a doubt, the most comprehensive and complete Scales ever offered to the public.
and
Illustrations
and Diagrams of
ladies' gentlemen's,
infants' garments.
Scales
read}''
in self-instruction
teacher.
The method of teaching by Object Lessons and by Object Lesson Appliances through the Instruction
Book is entireiy new and a marvel of simplicity. It make^ drafting so easy to learn that anyone, even with
a very limited learning and moderate
ability,
in
There are no problems to work and nothing to commit to memorv, consequently nothing to forget.
With the Standard Tailor System all styles of garments can be cut from the daintiest Infant's slipper
and the most artistic and stjdish ladies' garments, to boy's jackets and men's shirts and pants, making
the System complete for family use as well as for the professional cutter.
Books giving new
stj^les will
Ofiice,
Chicago,
III.
EVAN
CO.,
General Supply
Office,
Winneconne, Wis.
is,
is
very essential.
It is
Difficult measvires
little
may
be taken cor-
by anyone.
rectly
All desired
by
/.
Bust Measure.
taken -outside
All
measures
than measure.
fullest
little
Waist Measure.
2.
tight.
Length of Under=Arm.
Let the person measured hold the arm
down
in
a natural position
and
it
4.
line
directly
little
down
to waist-line.
If
shorter.
Length of Back.
Take length of waist
in the
EXTRA MEASURES.
While the foreging are the necessary measures for all Basques and Waists, yet the following four adthe unexditional measures may be taken by people of experience, but these are difficult measures to take, and
perienced are advised to avoid them, as they are not
differently developed figures
6.
result as correctly
for
taken measures.
Width of Chest.
Let the person measured stand naturally erect, measure across chest from arm's-eye to arra's-eye.
7.
Width of
In
Bacii.
depth
same position as above, measure across the back about one-halfway between shoulder point and
of arm's-eye.
8.
Length of Shoulder.
From neck
9.
to length desired,
Height of Darts.
Measure from waist
line
to raise of bust.
ADDRESS: H.
P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO.
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
Sleeve Measures.
Length of Sleeve.
10.
Stand a
little
and run
it
down
inside
seam
Muscle Measure.
//.
Take
measure around the fleshy part of the arm, about one half way between elbow and shoulder to
this
width
desired.
Elbow Measure.
12.
Holding the arm curved, measure around the elbow to desired width,
Wrist Measure.
13.
Skirt rieasures.
Hip.
14.
Measure over
around the
fullest
Length of Front.
15.
From waist
Length of Side.
16.
From waist
17.
dress,
Length of Back.
From waist
neck, and, noting the length of the Waist, pass the tape line
the Under-Arm notice the length of the waist, and pass the tape line on to length desired.
and
The principals
same as those
All the
other
of the basque
skirt.
Collars
18
Also at
and
Cuffs.
Collars.
If
Neck measure
as
fit is
is
used for collars, measure around the neck where collar will come, as tightly or loosely
desired,
Cuffs.
For
cufts
If
HI.
measure
112.
for all
For
all
garments
for
all
garments
for
upper part of
figure,
and by hip
Wrappers, Tea-gowns, Night Robes, &c., where the upper and lower parts of the garment are
drafted together, draft the entire garment by scale corresponding with Bust measure.
113.
Draft
Bands and
all
all
114.
Usescale "A" on
115.
1f6.
on Waist
117.
line of
line of Object
Where a
all
Base-lines
all lines
around
5,
"B"
118.
is
all lines
bod}- of garment.
is
is
^*sc^
5.
same
Lesson No.
circle is
and
For example:
same
is
figure of scale
"B" on the
figure of scale
"B" on base
line,
^|_|^"
point, or
on waist-
7,
where
placed on base-line.
all outlines.
All
unmarked
lines
are
made by
of the square.
Ladies Skirts
ARE AN EXCEPTION TO PARAGRAPh'5.
119.
''A"
on the bottom
paragraph
line to
5,
diagram where
it is
to be applied.
ADDRESS
EVAN
H. F.
CO..
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
General Directions.
Great care should be used in tracing and basting.
tial in
Tracing. If paper
1.
is
It
as assen-
in drafting.
when unmarked
marked with two tt place base-
straight with the lengthwise edge or lengthwise thread of the material, and
line straight
is
if
if
And if base-line is marked with one * place it on lengthwise fold, if marked with two ** on crosswise fold
and if marked with three *** on bias fold of material. In tracing Basques, Tea-Gowns &c., place pattern with
base-line either lengthwise or crosswise of lining,
enough
in
allow besides the seam one-quarter inch for lapping at the closing.
fered,
Trace
all
outlines
and
all
CUTTING. Having
2.
drafted
bj'
always cut the desired width of seams and hems outside of the tracing except the neck and the arm's-eyes,,
where the tracing
Cut notches at
followed.
is
BASTING ON LINING.
3.
garments having a
about an inch each
all
notch-marks.
is, let
waist-line, baste
have outside
DARTS.
down
first,
little
in lining.
lining loose
all
was
tight fitting
on the goods
figure.
for
Also
Hold
In
it
On French
an inch to prevent
BASTING TOGETHER.
4.
ing a waist-line, always start basting at the waist-line, placing the waist-line tracings together and basting
up, pinning upper part of
down from
darts out.
the waist-line.
seam together to make upper end of seam meet perfectly, and in some manner baste
Baste darts from the top and pav no attention to the waist-line tracing, and cut
In basting closing edges, allow one-quarter inch outside of tracing for lap in closing, whether gar-
in
it off
If
neck
Children's
fits
and
snugly stretch
Infants'
SLEEVES.
point 16, third
sleeves
join-
'
seam to side-form
in front arm's-eye at
line.
belt should
line at
line, loose-fitting
Always
garments before
.Gather sleeves between notches and place tight-fitting sleeve with outside
it.
the back.
inside of
all
little
is
go over the diagram of each lesson with the square and scale as the work progresses, just as
draft, (but without marking,) and not to slight any part, because it is "too easy."
Object lessons Nos.
the lessons.
1,
2 and
3,
arm
making the
if
4,
Page
4-.)
first line is
of square.
and to
2.
Take
scale
17 and 20 on
3.
scales
is
first line
placed.
3,
base-line.
Take square and measure down from point 20 length of Under=arm measure
down the
length of front=measure
make
(8^2 inches.)
Then meas-
mark
it
down
7,
to length
desired.)
Having obtained
4.
line
manner draw
drawing
lines
arm
from
all
points requiring
inches).
Always
arm
of square
o
c
?
o
n
B
vt
^/
//v.
5
.\ \J_
/^
Base-Line.
-^
^""^mmmrm^^
I.
draw second
cross-lines.
^A ///,
lines.
third line from point 17, fourth or bust-line from point 20,
before
draw
line.
all
is
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CHICAGO,
CO.,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
Place scale
1st.
scale
down
line.
"B" on
always being
line
point one-half
3d.
and mark at
4,
for
on
way between
the
8%
draw
bust-line
inch point
first line.
down
inside of base-
6, 14,
to waist-line and
20 and 23,
mark
Bring
at 23.
scale
"B"
14 inch point on
8 and 10.
on waist
J.3
of scale
4.)
and mark at 15
10 and
mark
with beginning
Make a
2d.
first line,
"B."
line
and through
mark
at
this point
pencil
3,
line
inches,
On
hip
making point 33
for spring
on
be-
hip.
To obtain points for top of darts, turn scale to "A" side and place beginning of scale on bust line at
point 14 and mark down 8 spaces for back dart and at point 6 mark down 9 spaces for front dart, then
bring scale up to point 17, second line, and mark down 1 space for shoulder.
We use scale "A" for these
4.
(See
paragraph
4,
page
4.)
1-23
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/6
'-<-
-O
-/<-
-<- -^
^^
fy^ /M
V.
''
2.
tr-'f
oiatline,
8,
that the
Page
4.)
letters,
marks of the
sides^
when one
line
NECK. With
point 1 to point 5 on
2.
is
used,
and
has been drawn do not change the position of the square before observing the next position so
way
side of sqtiare,
arrow pointing
in order,
"D" at point
1,
first line.
side ofsquare
draw
line
-\-
side
and
"N" finish the shoulder curve down to point 1 below the 17 point.
3.
ARM'S EYE. With same side ofsquare, arrow pointing up, and letter I on point 16, or near it, and
with upper part of curved edge on point 17, second line, draw arm 's-eye curve from point 20 on bust-line
with the
letter
line
line to
curved shoulder
side
bust-line.
ofsquare up, turn so that arrow points down, and bring curve "P" to
draw curve
to point 33 on hip-line.
same position and bring curve "P"up to point 8 at top of back dart and draw
to point 15 on sloping waist-line in like manner draw back line of front dart from point 9 at top to
6.
line
line.
DARTS.
Keep square
in
OBJECT LESSON
No.
3,
OR DIAGRAM
No.
1,
addrp:ss h.
Reverse Square to
sloping waist-line
in
p.
evan
Chicago,
co.,
ill.,
and by same curve draw front curve of front dart from point 9 at top to 4 on
same position bring curve N. to point 8 of back dart and draw line to point 10 sloping
side
waist-line.
B}^ straight
from point 15 to 13 on
17 on
All
unmarked
lines
line
hip.
CURVE OF FRONT.
7.
lines
With
side
R down to
this point
and
finish front
line
to point
b}-
Agents Wanted.
If
We
employment.
home
ity
can give you healthful, pleasant and continuous as well as profitable employment at your
or tra\eling.
We
give
are desirous to
ladies
this system,
and can
The STA]SDARD TAILOR SYSTEM is a strictly first-class article in every detail, in appearance, in qualand in merits, every part is of high grade material, making it attractive in appearance and unquestionable
in durability,
lish
It is
It is
The
its
accuracy,
its
its elasticity
unequaled
is
in sty-
principles of the
perfect,
are
facility to
its
The system
is
which with
their
learner.
"STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM" sells rapidly, because it is practical, rehable, cheap, durable and in
every way a benefactor to the purchaser. No special talent is required to sell the system, its merits work its
The
way like an
ance
is all
making the work comparatively easy and pleasant, and honest efforts and persevernecessary to make the work a grand success- Any honest person, lady or gentlemen, will
under-current,
that are
small capital
prompt and
is
system a
is
opportunity to
no
risk.
We
crown
it will
applications and
all
receive our
orders
But
and
all
their efibrts
Address
brilliant
TraveUng Agency.
Your correspondence
is
solicited.
Send
to
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
Winneconne, Wis.
p. O. BOX
80.
in
10
\
Object Lesson No. 4
APPLICATION OF SCALE
(See Paragraph
Object Lessons Nos. 4, 5 and
6,
4,
line at
2.
down
Draw
first line
points
From
1, 7,
13,
of square
down
in.)
below
draw
from
this point
waist-line, then
),
mark
all
the 7iN. point at the bottom, being careful that the short
each
first line
18 and 21.
point 21 measure
By long edge
1.
Page4.)
treat of Ladies' tight-fitting basque back with portions set apart for seam.
"A".
it off
and
skirt of
to length desii'ed).
arm
of
square
is
line.
Base-Lin e.
g:^//i/ uj\~
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4.
/?
^3
-^
ADDRESS:
EVAN
H. P.
CO.,
CHICAGO.
AND WINNECONNE,
ILL.,
Apply
"B"
base-line
line
scale
mark
first line
mark
"B".
4.)
"B" along
22 and 29, on
1,
first line
WAIST-LINE.
measures, 24
in.,
the straight
waist-line
mark
On
in the
mark
fifth
30, so as to give a small clean dot, place beginning of scale at this dot
11
5.
at
WIS.
point just
at 10,
waist
and again at
in.
mark
long edge of square from the 7-inch point on base-line to the farthest 7-inch point and draw
hip-line.
"B" on base-line and mark on hip Hne at 1, 6 and 8, then place beginning of scale
the first 7-iN. point and mark at 3 and 4, and from the farthest 7-in. point mark out 5 spaces for hip-curve.
The distance between the two base-lines, points 8V^in. and 17 inches on the base-line is the slope in the
5.
4.
and must be devided on the three sections of the back, the center-back, the side-form and
the under-arm-gore, without losing any of it on the distance between the pieces. Point off on base-line nearest
the lower point a small portion for center-back and divide the rest in two equal parts for side-form and
waist-line of the back,
under-arm-gore.
Place corner of square at upper dot as for drawing a straight line and
in.
point,
(the
6.
3r
j?/A/
--<-
'-
i-
2.f
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-22
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../(,
s.sc
I<i
-II
^X
^^^.
IN, V.
A
ai
/^//v.
OBJECT LESSON
No.
5.
/e'
13
12
6,
Apph' curves by
By
fourth
2.
straight edgeofsquare
draw curved
line,
draw by
Page
CENTER-BACK. By
1.
line.
letters,
8,
draw
line
line
in
4.
Lesson No.
3.
1 fourth line.
From
point
SHOULDER.
first line,
side,
to 21 on third
line
HIP.
in.
fifth,
line,
also side
side up,
and by curve
P,
draw
up to point 29 fourth
line,
and draw
Reverse square to
line
side,
still
point 10.
By same curve mark from point 22 fourth line through the first 24 in. point on waist-line to sloping waistline mark below.
By curve "K" mark in same manner from point 21 through 11 and down, and from point 16 through point
6 and down to sloping waist-line marks below.
6.
SLOPING WAIST-LINE. Draw sloping waist-line across each piece, that is, on the back, from point 3
to line below point
6,
on side-form
line
below 11 to
line
below the
first
in.)
and on
under-arm-piece from line under point 10 to straight waist-line at second waist-measure point.
7
BELOW
WAIST-LINE.
Draw
)IN
DIAGRAM
No.
2.
(Lesson No.
6.)
ADDRESS:
EVAN
H. P.
CHICAGO,
CO.,
AND WIXNECONNE,
ILL.,
WIS.
13
7.
is
4^
(24 IN.
).
(2-tix.,
and 5
(see
page
2.
4').
Place 5 on scale
"B" on
base=l!ne
and markat
11,
and
andmark againat
in
thesmall scaleat
the waist-measure,
in. line)
to the farthest
HIP.
down
IN.,
as in lesson No.
Mark on
hip-line at 1,
5,
and draw
Sand
6,
then
page
mark
4.)
Be guided by dotted
on straight
^Yaist-line
hip-line.
mark
waist and five spaces ovit from the second, for hip curve.
8,
in.
mark by curve
first 7 in.
mark
straight
down from
Outlines are
below the
16 by curve K.
9 page 2)
BACK.
When
at point 4,
number
first
line,
line
and Length
line,
of Shoulder, b\'
placing curve
FRONT.
Apply Width
back shoulder;
of
Chest on third
line, ieng-th of
basting page
5.
DIAGRAM
Measure height
NO.
3.
first line,
of darts
(Lesson No.:7.)
up from sloping
waist-line.
14
8.
TIGHT-FITTING SLEEVE.
(See Par.\graphs
Place scale "A" with beginning of scale on
first line
in.
Draw
line.
lines of
and on to length
4,
page
4.
of sleeve
4 and
3,
Page
5,
and mark on
4.)
base-line at 4, 6
and
in.
then
mark by
scale
15.
down
the base-line to
length required as
shown
in
for muscle-
diagram below.
APPLICATION OF SCALE
"B".
It
On
elbow
first line
line
mark
(from the 9
at 10
in,
and
point)
WIDTH OF SLEEVE.
20;
on second
mark
line at 10,
line at 3,
on
at 4 spaces.
a:t
out one-half of muscle measure, in this case 6V^ inches, (muscle measure being 13 inches) then measure width of
elbow, from point 4 on elbow-line to the
line
line at one-half
of
elbow^ measure, 6 inches (elbow measure being 12 inches in this draft). In like manner measure from wrist point
(the
17
in.
ing 8 inches).
By
scale (see
paragraph 5
),
inches, (wrist
measure be-
line
then
on base-line as shown b}' dotted line, and measure back 6 spaces. In like manner measure outS'spaces from the
width of elbow point (the 6 inch point) and wdth scale extending from point 3 to point 4 upper elbow-line
measure back 6 spaces. On muscle-line measure 5 spaces each way from the muscle measure point (the 6V2
inch point).
The most convenient waj- to handle scale for points 3 and 6 on wrist and elbow, is to place 3 at the inch
point with beginning of scale out and mark at beginning of scale to make point three, then without moving beginning of scale bring upper part of scale to wrist point on base-line, at elbow to point 4 on upper elbow-line
this
scale.
T^'^
1.0
',K-^
-A-
/o
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8.
/a
ADDRESS: H.
P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
15
9.
APPLICATION OF CURVES.
(See Paragraph 8 Page
4.)
WRIST. By short arm of square draw wrist-line from point 3 to the 17 inch point, over dotted line.
2.
INSIDE SEAM. Bring curve "P" up to point 15 of base-line and with
side arrow down draw curve
point 4 upper elbow line touching at point 3 on muscle-line. Without turning square bring curve "0" on
1.
-\-
to
OUTSIDE SEAM.
wrist-line.
line
6.
to point 6 on sloping
on second
line
line,
line
side drav^^
10
line.
from point 10
28 second
to point 15 on base-line.
first line
first
line finishing
line
upper
By
Turn square to
-\-
draw by curve
point 20 and draw line to point
j'-ou
sleeve.
FURTHER EXERCISES.
After going over these lessons thoroughly, select Scale No. 36 and draft
//V.
DIAGRAM
No.
3.
full size
16
Review of Lessons.
"
From
is
devised
1.
That
scales
"A"
2.
That
scales
"B"
3.
that
same
figure of scale
"B"
is
and
refer to
is
on waist-line of
s.
sc.is
is
always marked
These three principles are used throughout the whole system and
special directions are given
measures of length.
all
7,
and
s. sc.
it
will be
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
W/NNECONNE. W/S
P. O.
BOX
80.
in
may
instruction book.
number of that
is
is
given, as for
example on page
S. C.
scale No. 4
and
ruler
ruler
is
so these diagrams are realy a series of Object Lessons of Mrhich each and every one can be explained by the Object
H. P.
EVAN
[General supply
office,]
CO.,
W/NNECONNE. WIS.
P. O.
BOX
80.
ADDRESS
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
Introduce the
friends
ILL.,
and neighbors;
it
will pa}'
else,
vou better
and you
will
17
to your
your time
for
do them a favor.
.ADDRESS.
M. P.
Evan
Co.,
Winneconne,
P
Boys' Suit,
O.
Box
8o.
Wis.
88.
Ladies' Toilette,
P^g^ ^^
P^g^ ^^
page 41
Ladies' shirt-waist
Sleeve
P^g^ ^^
(jirls' A^ptOtl*
Pages 74 and 75.
18
Ladies'
<h
NOTE.-Wheu
When
let
back dart
ADDRESS
Ladies'
NOTE. Make
on diagram.
H.
P.
EVAN
CO..
CHICAGO.
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
19
it.
See hip-curve
'
20
Ladies'
>
(SC/sjo.j)
NOTE. When
by dotted
line.
using this front with back on page 21 and page 24, shorten shoulder one space as
shown
ADDRESS: H.
P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
witli
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
21
NARROW BACK.
This back can be used witli any front desired by marking front shoulder off one space on second line as
shown
in
Note.
above
For
first line
(See note
persons with long neck, usually termed sloping shouldeas, begin shoulder curve one space
as
shown by dotted
gram
page 20).
line
first
and for persons with short necks, usually termed sqare shoulders, beline, as indicated by open dotted line.
This can be applied to any dia-
of back, whether waist, basque, Jacket or wrapper, excepting designs for Fleshy Ladies.
22
(SC, A/O. /)
lines of close
dotts for First side-form and lines of open dotts for Second side-form.
ADDRESS: H.
(SC,
NO,
P.
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
23
/)
Fleshy ladies' basque back with two side=fonns and portions set apart for seams.
24
(Sc,
/^o,
/J
LADIES'.
be used with any front by shortening front shoulder one space on second
line.
ADDRESS
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
25
DIFFERENCE between
is less
than
lo inches
lines
?r,
{SC. /Vo.
Ladies'
and Misses'
Jacf<ets.
collar,
collar, see
page 65.
page 65.
ADDRESS
H. l\
EVAN
CO..
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
27
Double=Breasted Jacket.
made with cloak sailor-collar
shown on this page. For large
dotted
-
line
For
Turn
line
collar
and reveres or
to point 12, for either revere use large or small coat collar page 65.
close-fitting
collars
For
as
neck use collar No. 3, page 64, and run revere point off on dotted
of cross-mark.
line
sleeve,
page 38,
cuff,
this line.
9,
and
collar
No
4,
page 61.
page 40.
line
page 52
28
SYSTiiM.
(/C. A/^.?)
Ripple
To
waist-line
may
Back.
make same
be drafted onto any basque back and shortened to any desirable length, or
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
French Back.
Can be
If.
^:.
Make same
length as front.
29
30
Jacket-collar,
page 63.
page 38.
page 52.
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
Hisses'
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
Basque Back.
28,
WIS.
31
32
(je_.
Nt>2\
13/8
yds. material
ADDRESS
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
-5*
:o
'^
(SC.NO.
and Pocket.
33
34
Shirt-
Yoke.
FRONT.
Gather lower portion of front from point
base-line.
9, bust-line
to point 10 third
line,
scale
it
requires
5% yds.
22 inch goods or
3%
ADDRESS
H. P-
EVAN
CO..
CHICAGO,
Back
ILL.,
of Shirt-waist
Gather lower portion from point 8 to 5 and join to yoke from point 8 to 13 on
35
base-line.
36
22 on
For
1,
line to
base-line; join
full
fullness
ADDRESS: H.
P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
37
WIS.
?^V^,
^0^^ -N' _^'r5^
'V'^p-^ "^
<a.
(JC, A/0,
2)
FRONT PLAIT.
Shirt=Waist Back.
No.
2.
line to
point 5 on fourth
If
line;
tinder-arm-gore
is
desired, use
No.
3.
No.
4.
No.
5.
For
this style
omit
fullness
beyond
Base-line.
Use sleeve on page 41, collar and cuff on page 65 or cuff on page 77.
see
page 34.
38
x.
vf*
I
V/<^^
-/-
f^
"''x^
/O
V
'>
\\
/^
^>
/'^^
<
\^
^.
\^
\X
^^
<^
yO
\N
/>
\
<
cf>
\\
O
~A
.,./<
\'--
nedium
^^/t-
(j^.'Z.f^/O.i^
Material required for sleeves drafted by scale No. 36, and of medium length
Place dotted line on lengthwise thread of goods.
is
1% yds
of 36 inch goods.
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
39
^\
<!i
/Ch
ft^
(SC, No. x)
^-
>
^
Scale
down
in muscle-line one-half
36 inch goods.
way between
4-0
:^K'
Circular Cuff.
and Epaulettes.
Draft by scale
Diagram No.
"A"
only!
1 give one-half of
cape No.
1.
notch-mark 5 at the
shoulder
Make
designs.
marks at
notch-
as indicated
on diagram
and
In
medium
quires 1
sizes
No.
re-
>
//O. V.
(5c.
//<?.
3)
1.
ADDRESS
(sc
0.
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
41
2)
35.
For smaller
sleeve see
Size,
used scale
down 4
sleeve
Lesson No.
8,
but
if
if
is
used,
measure up the base-line length of cuff (8 spaces) then give 4 spaces for slope of sleeve.
Material required for sleeves drafted by scale No. 36, and of medium length,
See page 5 for basting.
is
1%
42
I
Ladies' Seven=Gore Consuelo Skirt.
NOTE
NOTE
of
2.
3. for
In drafting finish top of each piece, then measure down for length of skirt
up as indicated on
which
it will
be
base-line.
Measure from upper edge of gores through points on lower line and establish points along lower edge byactual length of skirt measure (see dotted Hues on diagram) page 53. If skirt varies in length at the Front,
Back and
Sides,
is
shown
in drafts
ADDRESS
H. P-
EVAN
CO..
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
No.
1.
Front-Gore.
No.
2.
First Side-Gores.
No.
3.
Second Side-Gores.
No.
4.
Back-Gores.
WIS.
43
NOTE. An
it
If
Consuelo
off as indicated
elastic
ribbon
may
in
forward
fullness is
by dotted
lines
be tacked under-
10%
44
.1
4% yds.
44
in.
40and
wide.
of
medium
2,
page 42.
in.
wide, or 6 yds. 30 in
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
45
is
46
IN.
2.
1.
Front.
Back-Gores.
skirt requires
6% yards
30
in.
ADDRESS:
"^
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
47
\
-4-
SC.
\
^$C,.
A/0. 5-\
!0. ^.j
44
IN.,
or
3% yards
54
in.
medium length
material
this
and 43.
garment requires
5%
yards 36
in.
48
graceful
BACK PORTION OF
LADIES' BICYCLE
TROUSERS-SKIRT.
See page 3 for skirt measures and give 3
inches
gram.
See paragraph
9,
page
shown on
4-
dia-
for darfting.
according to notch-marks
and cut
in
one
by dotted
outline.
(h O.
/,/
^'
shown
of this convenient
and
bicj^cleists.
ADDRESS: H.
P.
Ho.
li
e.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINxNECONNE,
WIS.
49
50
When
2.
1.
and
Skirt.
and
43).
finished seperatly.
greater fullness
is
may
be
worn over
if
desired.
ADDRESS: H.
P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
;yo.
No.
1.
No.
Front.
2.
WIS.
51
^-
Back.
and
line
50 on front and
skirt.
line
5.
Make a
line
60 on back.
seams of trousers turnup hem and insert elastic at bottom take up darts at top of trousers. Join inside seams of skirt and take up superfluous width at top by two
backward-turning plaits at the back and two forward-turning plaits at the front. Slip skirt over trousers and
join bolji in one seam from center back to notch-mark on fronts and finish front with fly. Draft fly and place
In putting
inside
52
Jacket sailor-
page 61.
page 41.
Gaunt-
NOTE. See
skirt
measure page
3.
2.
page 42.
36 inches wide.
Medium
3% yards ma-
k.
ADDRESS
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
53
1^
>^: >^
/-~-^..^-
^
V-'
V
7^
/'
-s,-
b'.^
ri
/5,
?^
t
Cr^:K
%/^
St. Wo..
>^/
'5:-.
-Vs.
Sliirt.
rimsh top of skirt first, then measure down base-line length of front measure and up as indicated on baseline.
Measure from upper edge down as indicated by dotted lines. If all measures, front, back and side, are
not of a length go gradully from one to the next.
54
Ladies'
TRAIN.
To show
if
possible
more
clearly
how
the measures
and
3.
bine in these garments, the measures of Object Lessons from 1 to 6 have been used in the upper part of these
drafts
(42y2
IX.
);
in skirts.
In like
the back and measure side-pieces from sloping Avaist-line for length and slope as
in'
in
dotted
take measures accordingU^ and go gradually from one measure to the next as indicated by
lines.
Material required for garment drafted by the 36 inch scale and for medium height
ters yards
is fifteen
and three-quar-
ADDRESS
H. P-
EVAN
CO..
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
55
-i
v\>>
'
^C
/VO
^ ^-
b"\
>
\/<i:
Ladies'
Bring points 22,
at the neck-curve.
14-
and 6
in to point 2
on same
Tea=Qown.
line, this will
56
53
5"
''1
z*^
"^
Ci
<?!
{^
!^
^j
c^/
C^K^
V-
2:
o f^
;^
i$^-^voA
\^
'J.
A.'
Front of Ladies'
may
Darts.
if
desired.
ADDRESS
H. P.
EVAN
CHICAGO,
CO.,
ILL.,
(^<^. /l/o.5^
'ji
'J-
\/
Front
of Ladies'
Gown with
one Dart.
_ji:
i7
58
^v-^
5r
1
Under-Arm-Qore and Side=Form=Qore
of Ladies'
Gown.
54.
ADDRESS
H. P.
EVAN
CO..
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
59
^
i^"
1^
1^
n5
WAUTEAU BACK.
Both edges of Wanteau Back
teau Back
is
is
joined in
Back may be
and carried
in
hip-line;
two seams
Wauteau
60
b3^
Bust measure.
To
5,
page 65.
lengthen or shorten
cape, measure
below or
For garment
of medium sizeand length 2%
yards, 36 inch
material
required
is
ADDRESS: H.
P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
AND WINNECONNE,
ILL.,
61
WIS.
T&H
>ir
V
^fe
/^^
^.'i
7'
r~
1/
0/
/
/
*-' ^-,
"'x\
/
/if*
//f5. /,
A/d.
/5,3.
S-
01
~^-^
/^
T
^^
Co
/^
/
i
--iT'
/e.'
If-
i
\
/PI
\>.
!
\+
A..
\,_\-<%
NO,
(r.
!<>
/vo,^.
Misses' Toilette.
\SC.NC.3]
Ladies'
No.
Sailor-collaretset, illustrated
No.
1.
3.
Collarette
illustrated
page o2.
No. 5 and
6.
page 54.
No.
4.
No.
Jacket
Collarettes.
2.
Cape
collar see
and Basque
page 60.
sailor-collar,
Join
Waist
No.
and
Take up dart
in lin-
the outNos. 5 and 6 by bringing points 5 and 26 of each together as notched and seaming up ing and gather
on shoulder.
side.
62
'<^
M
\
A
^V
No.
1.
No.
2.
No.
3.
No.
4.
Short Medici
Drafted by the 36
eights yards of 44 or
No.
3.
(with No.
wide material.
ix. scale.
more
4.
-X
V-
^\
collar.
._
or turned back.
.^
'
Nos. 1 and 2 require one and one-half yards of 20 or 30 inch goods and seven-
requires one yard 20 inch goods; one-half yard of 30 inch; or five-eights yard
44 inch
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
63
{Sc./Vo, 3)
I
No
1.
<
Jacket Revere.
No.
2.
No.
4.
Drapery Collaret
e.
^
(I"-';^^^"* '^^"
.,. ^
drafted sepa.atl,. apply
When
separatly.
used
or
jacket
the
of
Jacket Revere may be drafted on the front
with vhich it will be used.
front measures same as for Jacket or basque
back to point o on first
join to No. 1, by placing point 4 on
If cape-back is desired, use No. 3 and
outline
1 of revere, as indicated by dotted
revere and point 26 on back topoint 17 on line
,t.
underneath, tacking corners of No. 1 over
When using collar No. 2, finish it separatly and place it
(Illustrated
page 30.)
No.
4.
'
ff
64
-^
.1
./'
-it/
^.'-
i^*
A.\
<'
^
I
^!^
A/0.
/.
\
I
\J
1
a-/
/\
\
nS
--.
' ,
o
-ICO
-c
\<
-- >'
-/-
''
f -H-V
-f-
Of
jvVAa
/v/6,
^
2,.
^.
717
It
/^
li
^:0
,SC,,
/7
k^
-)
A/
5.
3.
/i
/o
Ladies'
terial.
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
AND WINNECONNE,
ILL.,
WIS.
65
-^"
ssi
Jt^:
f-?
^^"^
,^^
s^
^ fV
-i
4/
A/
__>
s N^-'^siJ 2;^^___
.^
O
"
*
C^
'"
y
c4
::>f"""'^'
//O.I
r-J
5^.Vd.t)
A/0. 5
/^O,
-v^ c
A/P,9
%
vs
>iv
;/
-7
l<y
":)
vi.-^
Ladies'
and
flisses'
Collars
and
Cuffs.
No.
1.
No.
2.
on
No.
3.
No. 4.
Medium
Use dotted
No.
5.
Large Coat-collar.
No.
6.
Rolling Collar.
No.
7.
Standing Dress-collar.
Coat-collar.
all
lines
and
alio
seams
line
w^ill
and 3 require
V2
yard
60
'^':^g;g5S^
r-^
Ladies'
as for skirts.
Open Drawers.
Get length on side from waist to knee or to length desired.
'A" only.
2 yards of edging.
Seam up
line.
and
ADDRESS: H.
P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO.
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
67
may
see
m facings on
dotted
line.
68
Ladies'
When
using scale larger than No. 31, draft by scale "A" only.
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
69
.t^^fii
-^
Children's Drawers.
Take hip and length measures same as for ladies'
drawers, also measure from inside-seam; in drafting, measure up from
bottom length
is
in.
length one
required.
.f^
is
it
bias, fold
single folds
on
line
two
and three-quarters
first line,
inches wide
to
fit
and
laps.
/v'P,
3)
70
yyo. /
^^,3
^C.
/Vo.
3)
*
T
/y'0.
/^o.
Children's Waists.
For these waists the measures are taken and apphed the same as for Misses' and Ladies' Waist.
The
waist-measure is omited in some designs which are more particularly intended for small Children. Allow
onequarter inch on edges of center-back for lap, when closing in the back.
No.
1.
No.
2.
No.
3.
4.
fittino-
back.
line
to point 18
if
close
fit is
desired.
8.
for
low
neck.
3, 7,
9 or 10.
ADDRESS: H.
P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO.
:^vs
ILL..
AND WINNECONNE.
71
WIS.
sa
l^
Ci
it^
"T^
S/'
b\
71
\
9\
fvo,
N(J,
(c.
A/o.
(^Q,
A/a, 3)
^^
/-vo.
/VO- ^.
8.
/<:?.
72
Follow dotted
Make
line
section.
Use plain sleeve page 15, and sleeve page 41 to required length
spaces.
for puff.
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO.
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,.:WIS.
1.
/'If:
waist back.
misses'
NO. 2. SLEEVE-CAPE.
For
Misses',
1 this
page; for
girls,
when
Make
folds 2 spaces
^
"
wide
finished.
Cut
-*-
fjage,
spaces in front of
B^
^^
'""v"~
//<),
<
<?e-}
73
74
Little Oir/s'
Apron.
For waist
and 4 page
70, following
dotted lines for low neck. Close lining in the back with buttons and button-holes; outside may, if desired, be closed by
seaming up to waist-line
Make
in the back.
frill
fold
broidery
If
may
be used,
sufficiently
if
wide
prefered.
material
is
line
of front
fold of
Girls'
Square=necli Apron.
Follow dotted
down
for
lines
frill.
C5*c./vo,3).
ADDRESS: H.
P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNH.
WIS.
75
Qirls' Toilette.
full
sleeve
fitting lining,
this
page, over
page 40.
2,
Material
required
for
garment
length
or
5%
is,
7% yards
{SC. /vo.j^
4%
76
(o^t.
/Vd,3^
CcT
// o.
GIRLS' SAILOR
In cutting, place No. 1, 2, 3
and 4 on lengthwise
fold of
/,
COSTUME
goods as indicated bv
*.
Cut
Drafted by the
24-
ADDRESS:
EVAN
H. P.
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,~WIS.
5^
^^
,'i
_J^_
:<5.
?1
-U
J^
IX
T"
//
0/^
V.
b=>
rt
./
^^
*
*
^u
^
//^.
a^
T^s
\*
J^
5:
^
i=_
"/^,
-^
i'
(sc, ^yo. 3
K
No.
2.
Blouse Back.
No.
3.
Sailor-Collar in
two
designs.
No.
-i.
Cuff.
No.
5.
77
78-
Collar No.
this page.
1
^'>^
Cj
<-._
\
"^
C--^
S
\
1
+
;/
N^
^^
?l
'^.
'^;
1^
j:
'
<c-
^-i''
5'
-^
H^.
'
N^.f
//
i-r
'C-.
Sailor=Collars.
No.
No.
2.
Lapel Sailor-Collar.
No.
3.
No.
4.
Star Sailor-Collar.
No.
5.
ADDREvSS:
H. P.
EVAN
(S
dotted neck
line,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
79
A/ 0.3)
CHICAGO,
C.
boys'
For smooth
CO.,
Boys' Costume.
blouse- waists with extra fullness.
in thre
(See illustration
forward turning-plaits.
full
page 17.1
line
1% yards
36
80
FRONT.
BACK.
-&
+
V
V-"
"^
X^
.*v.
71
*M /e-f
V^iL.
-i:
^
+
T
Ir,
Lay tucks
spaces,
tuck.
4).
Drafted by the 25
in. scale
Tucked waist requires two and three-quarter yards of 27 inch goods or one and three-quarters yards of 36
wide goods, and plain waist requires two and three-eights yards of 27
goods.
inch, or
in.
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE.
>
:b
WIS.
81
'^
'O'
\.
^.
^/
v7
^?"
cJ
Rr -~
SC, /V0.3
Sleeve, Overlay,
Either
stj'le
of waist
may
be
worn with
kilts,
Wnst=band and
Collar.
82
C^vS
4^
-.
^/
I,
fn
^/^^^--T
\i \
<^
\
4\
i
f
^y
\c^
'
a<
^
<
V<4
"\
(Cfer
^V 0,
A/0,
'5C. /V<i,3
Z.
1.
Blouse Front.
No.
2.
Blouse Back.
two and
five-eights
it
1 page 70.
medium
For high-neck
and dotted
line
ADDRESS:
EVAN
H. P.
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
NO. 3
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Tam
This
may
O' Shanter.
Misses also.
No.
4.
Crown.
No.
5.
Band.
^?
come and
ren and
draft
by
Make
by
scale
scale No.
28 for
.-$
will
child-
30 for Misses.
ters inches
NO.
b.
plaited to
side
with
bow and
To make
either si^e
requires five-
the
ing.
n.
quill feathers.
and
interlin-
No.
5.
up
For wider
see
at dotted
line.
sleeve
83
84
u-
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//
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6^.
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{f:tj^0,2)
In drafting collar,
make
revere por-
Any
prefered collar
Jacket neck
may
may
be used, or
be underfacedand
worn
tinder waist-collar.
left
open to
waist-line.
see
page 85.
J^t-..
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
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"(V
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of medium length
is
f
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WIS.
85
86
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see
page
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->
r^
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^>.
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cr-
/yo3]
directed
on page
down
2,
fro'rri
trifle
short, apply
given in diagram.
If different
length of garment
point 8 at neck
down to
is
it
is
in
from point 18
For seam
in center
to point 5
bottom
it
from
line of side-seam,
and
ex-
back.
down
5,
and apply
Roll coat
line.
and
collar over
on
line of
cross-marks.
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE.
WIS.
87
/vo. /
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No.
1.
Sleeve.
No.
4.
No.
2.
Coat back.
No.
5.
No.
3.
Coat- sailor-collar.
length,
medium
6.
inch goods,
88
1
1
1
1
1
1
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No.
Front.
No.
2.
Back.
No.
3.
Front Under-lap.
No.
4.
Back
No.
5,
Fly.
No.
6.
Waist-band.
No.
7.
Front Waist-band.
No.
8.
Back Waist-band.
'^.^
,]
Puff.
/vo.
V.
''VO.
^,
No 7 and
down
6 spaces.
When
fly is
8.
Measure front of pants from first line to second and make fly same length and scale
used, use band No. 3. Measure by square out one-half of waist-measure and ex-
tend the
left
five-eights
ADDRESS: H.
P.
EVAN
CHICAGO,
CO.,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE.
WIS.
89
1
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Make
evelets in
above knee
line
No
may
puff,
line.
No.
4,
underneath.
full
line.
Drafted by the 26 inch scale and of medium length, trousers require one and three-quarters yards 27 inch
90
^
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to
H\
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1~
fb
VI
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No.
1.
Front under-lap.
No.
2.
Front over-lap.
No.
3.
Pocket.
i^
<\
>
N on
way between
sleeve
scale
and
down
Open front to
2.
Take
point
4,
9.
as directed, and
let
first
line at
one-half tha
number of inches of neck-measure and mark 3 spaces beyond on lower line, Get curves for neck band in like
manner two spaces apart. Notch at point 3 for under-lapping end of band and join to right-hand side of shirt,
notch at 4 and join to over-lapping or
left. side
Join
Follow dotted
line
bv curve
for
yoke on back.
two and
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE.
WIS.
91
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No.
4.
Slerve over-lap.
No.
5.
Sleeve.
No.
6.
Shoulder-yoke.
No.
7.
Collar.
No.
8.
Waist-band.
No.
9.
Neck-band.
to
fit
yoke.
shirt front.
92
Men's Drawers.
Draft on same plan as men's pants.
94 and
Fly
gether.
95.
to second, and
first line
make
to fourth
fly
toline
line,
spaces.
first line
down
Make
8 and 10 spaces.
in each edge,
and
lace
eyelets
r
^JV,
<
ADDRESS:
^A'^-
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNErWlS.
93
No./,
Men's Vests.
Take breast measure, get length of front from center back of neck down front to length required.
line scale up 9 spaces by scale "B"; for all the rest apply paragraphs 4 and 5.
Apply front measure from point
scale
up 8 and 14 spaces.
7,
top
From first
Measure front from point 25 down to point 8 and make back same length from
94
Men's Pants.
1.
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHFCAGO.
ILL..
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
Make
a |6oint one-half
wav
On
1
mark
scale,
'^
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95
96
Infants' Department.
IN
No. 18.
(^^ /^^, j)
and WnsUBand.
6 to 18 together.
""''' '^'
7f
to r"''f
yoke.
of sKirt
.V
oi
fit
^^^^^^^^
Gather
ADDRESS: H.
P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
vS^
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^^
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i
.^^
y
xi/
\\.
4
!f1
WIS.
97
98
'f
z.
->
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o
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iw
iSC No.
seam
line
this brings 6,
on arm's-eye
10 and 22 on
for Back,
first line
96.
towards the
and point 19 of yoke is joined to it. Join skirt section to yoke plane to notchmark and to gather rest to fit yoke. Join point 38 and sleeve (page 96) to shoulder seam. To obtain goods
straio-ht on front and back of voke, make a seam on dotted line for shoulder and. place Hne for back on straight
and 24
is
seamed up
for shoulder
edge of cloth.
No. 2 requires
two and
all
this
yokes.
fi\e-eights
1,
line
yards 36 inch
3, this
page
is,
for each
36 inches wide goods with one-third of a yard of tucking or all-over embroidery for yoke, or of one materia^
36 inches wide goods, two and
five-eights yards.
address;:
H. p.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
u/.
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ICs
99
100
Infants* Sack.
Front
of
If rounded,
may be square
or round.
on
collar scale
and ouf
up 5 spaces from
51,
Gather top of
seam.
Shirr
bottom of
stay underneath.
on length-wise
and fasten
fold of
Materia] required
goods.
is,
five-eighths
yard 44 inch
must be allowed.
is
button-hole
hem
for
which
(C,.,/6. J;
ADDRESS: H.
EVAN
P.
CO.,
^1
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
101
WIS.
/VA/
Infants' Foot-Wear.
-r
Vxl
Mark
carefully
all
notch-marks as
t/;
by them
in
o^t
^/
notch-marks together
^A
^^-
-'-"
''-N~~~
A/ a./
A/C.
Mo.
1.
X'pper section.
No.
2.
Sole.
stich tops or
lace
slash
Make
through.
and
a^
^^
->"T^K-
Infants' Smoe.
1.
Seam up
. -y.
-ik
with baby-ribbon or
silk lacing
'iX
1$
Join No.
cord.
2,
by
-Vx
notch-marks.
No.
<:^
Inf.\nts' Slipper.
2.
No.
1.
Upper portion.
No.
No.
2.
Sole.
'it
Seam up
\Q
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y^
o\\
2,
,-.\-\
JUL
Strap.
3.
'^
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A/t}/L
3.
Seam up
Infants' Moccasin.
heel of No. 1, the^sole,
back
single
mark.
to the single
Join single
marks
upj^er,
mark
and
by the
of No. 3
of numbei's 1
and 2
marks
of No.
1,
double marks to
gather No.
fit
between
m.3
.:^l3
XJ
1^
-f/
marks.
Make
Any
from
lr>
one-quarter
yard
20
or
made
more
\'K
When
and so over-and-over.
fv^
o-
t\
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102
1.
No.
2.
of Flannel or Muslin,
and
and
requires, for
Skirts.
inches wide.
if
widths each one yard long, and for double band, one-third yard of muslin 36 inches wide.
Gather flannel into band to the 45 mark leaving ends of band to lap over.
No. 3 and
4.
Use lower
line
No.
5.
Notch
skirt
base-line
it.
neck.
No.
6.
Numbers
3, 4,
line for
and 6 require
two widths
ADDRESS':
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
103
WIS.
r<
5t. /Vo.s\
and
Skirts,
104
diagrams
amount
will contain
with
full
office
as
no agent
will be
directly
Address
all
our Supply
Office
WiNNECONNE,
WiS., P. O.
BoX
H. P. Evan
Central Office, Chicago,
III.
80.
Co
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